After a newspaper ranked the city bottom in a list of Britain’s best cities, Fiona Whitty went to check it out to see if some of the criticism it receives it fair
Fiona and Rosie enjoyed a lot of what Southampton has to offer(Image: Supplied)
Southampton is many things to many people. Now Britain’s biggest cruise port, it’s where the Titanic set off from on its doomed maiden voyage. It boasts a thriving student community, with all the cool bars and fun places that an unending stream of young people brings.
And it has some of the UK’s best-preserved city walls, which remind you of the strategic importance the city once held. And on the arts front, it’s home to the largest theatre in the south outside of London, with a bumper programme of West End offshoots.
But sadly, not everyone thinks it has much to offer. The Daily Telegraph recently gave it just 1/10 in a ranking of the UK’s 20 biggest cities, placing it last. After spending a weekend there with my 20-year-old daughter Rosie, I think they’ve got it badly wrong.
The city is buzzing…with cocktails, culture and cuisine for starters. Rosie and I kicked off with a cocktail masterclass at 1932, a classy bar that’s ‘hidden’ behind unmarked doors and accessed via a buzzer, giving it a speakeasy feel.
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Once a bank that opened in – yes, you guessed it – 1932, it’s decked out in sleek art deco-style with golden statue lamps and lattice patterns. Drawing on its heritage, its imaginative bespoke brews, designed by bar manager and mixologist extraordinaire Amy, all have a financial theme.
To begin with, Amy invited us behind the bar to whip up a Cash Money – a creamy mix of rum, coconut, mango and passionfruit jiggled together à la Tom Cruise in a traditional cocktail shaker. Next up was a Platinum Card, created to emulate rhubarb-flavoured Squashies with vodka, rhubarb and banana liquors – this time stirred together and drizzled over ice. Blank Cheque, meanwhile, with gin, Campari, and Lillet Blanc aperitif, had a tantalising hint of Aperol about it.
Rosie and I loved the novelty of mixing behind the bar and the cocktails tasted divine – unique yet perfectly formed. A cocktail masterclass costs £40 with 1932.bar.
Afterwards, we headed to Hokkaido, a hip Japanese restaurant that’s popular with everyone from young couples to families to groups of friends. There we were transported to the Land Of The Rising Sun with a hearty feast that included prawn tempura, fried tofu and chicken, vegetable gyoza and a variety of sushi that tasted every bit as amazing as it looked.
With the city spread out along the Channel and enormous cruise ships often in dock, you can’t escape Southampton’s 1,000-year-old maritime heritage. Not only was it the starting point for The Titanic’s stricken voyage in 1912, it’s also where The Mayflower ferried the Pilgrims over to America nearly 300 years earlier.
On the Titanic front, a brilliant exhibition at the SeaCity Museum offers an absorbing account of how the disaster unfolded, killing around 1,500 of the 2,200-plus passengers and crew on board. A mock courtroom, recounting parts of the British Inquiry that followed, is particularly fascinating as you get to hear the real-life words of witnesses being quizzed and of the judge’s verdicts. Entry costs £14, but book in advance for a 10% discount.
The Titanic Trail, which starts outside, leads you around memorials and points of interest – like The Grapes pub, where several seamen lingered too long before departure and were refused entry to the ship, thus saving their lives. Strolling around we saw Southampton’s old city walls, built to help defend the key port after a surprise attack by French soldiers and Genoese mercenaries nearly 700 years ago. You can discover more at an exhibition at God’s House Tower – once a city entry point and now a museum and art gallery – while the onsite café with excellent coffee and delightful apple buns is perfect for a breather. General entry is free, but the exhibition costs £5.
Southampton is easy to get to, with half-hourly trains from London Waterloo taking just 75 minutes with South Western Railway. Our base was voco Southampton, a stylish IHG hotel on the waterfront. Our sixth-floor twin room offered views across the city’s cruise terminal, where ships docked and car ferries unloaded.
But the real highlights were the super-friendly staff…and the fabulous Atlantic Gate restaurant. With banks of windows flanking the sea, the restaurant has a chilled yet stylish ambience and a stand-out seafood-heavy menu. Over a couple of voco’s superb cocktails – the champagne spritz with rum and coconut was a particular hit – we tucked in to fish soup with whole mussels and prawns, fried mixed seafood and a monkfish, prawn and coconut curry, all simply delicious.
Massive theatre fans, Rosie and I often watch a show when we’re away because tickets are generally cheaper than at home in London, while performances remain just as exciting and professional. The Mayflower – a real Southampton stalwart and, London aside, the south’s biggest – didn’t disappoint.
Dating back to 1928 and now grade-II listed, it’s hosted greats like The Beatles, Queen and the Rolling Stones and still oozes warmth and charm with original chandeliers, sleek cornicing and ornate boxes. Today it attracts the UK’s top comedians, ballet troupes, opera stars, and West End-standard touring productions like Matilda and Six.
A sister theatre nearby, MAST Mayflower Studios, offers yet more. Southampton ticked our boxes for history and culture – and food. The Real Greek, tucked into the side of Westquay shopping centre, was the perfect sassy lunch spot. Thanks to small plate favourites like hummus, tzatziki, Greek salad, and courgette fritters alongside tender grilled aubergine in a smoky tomato sauce and a pork gyros, we enjoyed a smack of summer – helped, no doubt, by the gorgeous Greek sangria with white wine and vermouth.
For our final port of call, we retreated to a batting cage… for the UK’s first interactive baseball experience. 1st Base has given baseball a social makeover, allowing friends or families to bat against each other in a safe and fun game bar environment.
You take it in turns to enter a cage and hit the balls propelled from a machine, while computer technology measures your strike rate and speed. As novices, Rosie and I started slowly but soon picked up the knack and loved the competitive yet relaxed feel to it. Elsewhere, shuffleboard, table tennis, and electronic basketball provided a change of pace – as did the pizza and drinks that are available alongside the action (tip: the dark ‘n’ stormy rum cocktails are out of this world).
No curveballs here – as far as I’m concerned, Southampton has all the bases covered.
GET THERE
A return from London Waterloo to Southampton costs from £44 with South Western Railway. For discounts on food, theatre, and attractions when you travel on their network, check out swr-rewards.com.
BOOK IT
B&B for two in a twin or double room at the voco Southampton starts at £115 per night. See vocohotels.com/southampton.
