Worldfamous

I visited the quieter side to the Algarve with barely-known islands and world-famous coastal paths

JUST off the Algarve coast, near Faro, is the Ilha Deserta.

This literally means “deserted island”, but there was no going hungry when I hopped on a boat to this unique spot.

There is a quiet sandy island just off the Portuguese coastCredit: Supplied
Jill took a trip to Ilha DesertaCredit: Supplied
Praia Do Canal Nature Retreat is a five-star hotel set in the heart of the Vicentine Coast, offering tranquillity and relaxationCredit: Supplied

Call me Jill Robinson Crusoe, if you will.

Alongside seven kilometres of gorgeous white sand, the island is home to just one building – the fish restaurant Estamine.

And every dish on the menu is worth the trip alone.

My delicate, buttery, grilled sea bass was cooked to perfection and served with roasted potatoes and vegetables.

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The choice is dizzying, with everything from giant carabinero prawns and Atlantic lobster to crispy sand shrimps and Grandma’s squid stew.

Reached by boat taxi in around 15 minutes, the restaurant has stunning views of the Atlantic from its floor-to-ceiling windows.

Afterwards, you can sunbathe beside the crystal-clear waters, or take a peaceful stroll while trying to spot the rare birds and chameleons that frequent the island.

If, however, you prefer something a little more fancy, you can enjoy a catamaran trip around the Ilha Deserta, which is part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park — a coastal lagoon stretching 60km from Faro to Manta Rota.

I sailed with a local company called iSea and have to admit, sitting on deck with a glass of prosecco and the sun on my face was a highlight of my trip.

But if you don’t have the sea legs for a boat trip, the Algarve has plenty for you to enjoy on dry land.

Faro itself has a marina and historic old town with cobbled streets.

And here, you can delve into fabulous Portuguese cuisine at Tertulia Algarvia, which is set in an historic whitewashed building.

Alongside cooking classes, craft workshops and cooking demonstrations, it serves up some real classics.

Fish restaurant Estamine sits on the sandy shoresFpraiCredit: Unknown

There’s still plenty of seafood, from octopus rice to grilled golden bream, but a standout on the menu was the chicken piri-piri.

This original grilled chicken dish comes with a spicier marinade than your local Nando’s as well as a huge portion of crispy chips, all for just £12.60.

Meat dishes are as big a deal as seafood and fish across much of the region, and I was always spoilt for choice when it came to getting my daily fix of protein.

One of my favourite places was in Aldeia da Pedralva — a rural village which has been lovingly rebuilt after many of the buildings were left in ruins.

Now, most of the village buildings are available as accommodation to hire, but the main restaurant, Sitio da Pedralva, is a destination in itself thanks to its incredible farm-to-table offerings.

From succulent wild boar to melt-in-your-mouth pork cheeks, it was a true meat lover’s paradise.

As well as the meat dishes, the chef also serves another classic dish from the region, bacalhau no pao — creamy cod served in a rustic, hollowed-out crusty-bread bowl. Delicious.

After all that food, I needed a walk and, thankfully, a short drive away was a stunning coastal route which makes up part of the Fisherman’s Trail.

Covering 226km from Sao Torpes (near Sines) to Lagos, it is considered one of the best coastal paths in the world.

Along the way, it offers views of dramatic, rugged cliffs that drop off into incredible turquoise waters, and waves that keen surfers seek to ride.

If you want to see the sights but don’t fancy a hike or walk, a Jeep tour is another fun option — and I did a morning trip with Sagres Discovery.

Our charismatic driver took us off-roading to the western Algarve, including Sagres and Cape St Vincent Lighthouse — one of the most powerful in Europe.

All the adventure, food and sea air can certainly make you feel sleepy and, thankfully, I had the perfect place to stay a little further along the coast.

Praia Do Canal Nature Retreat is a five-star hotel set in the heart of the Vicentine Coast, offering tranquillity and relaxation, not to mention incredible decor and attention to detail.

A brief glance at the delicious grilled fish menuCredit: supplied

With an infinity pool, yoga classes and exceptional food in its restaurant, it’s perfect if you want to reconnect with nature — and yourself.

The huge rooms also offer a shower that is bigger than my entire bathroom at home, massive beds and views across the rolling hills to the Atlantic Ocean.

But if you want to stay closer to the action and not somewhere as remote as Praia Do Canal Nature Retreat, Faro is a great place to base yourself.

I finished my stay in the region with a couple of nights at 3*B Faro, the only five-star hotel in the downtown area of the city, and just a short walk from the old town and marina.

With a rooftop infinity pool and terrace, as well as indoor spa facilities, the hotel offers some quiet calm once you’ve finished a day of exploring the region.

The Algarve is also a top destination for wine lovers, and a trip to a local vineyard is a must for any itinerary.

I enjoyed a lovely lunch and afternoon at Morgado do Quintão — a family-owned vineyard that also offers a farm-stay experience if you want to linger a little longer.

The estate offers guests a farm-to-table experience with a wine flight from its collection, which has revived the indigenous Negra Mole grape.

It is known for having an unusual variation of grape colour within the same bunch.

I had the chance to try a white, rose and red during my visit, all while enjoying fine views of the vineyard and the imposing 2,000-year-old olive tree which sits in the grounds.

I left the Algarve with a totally different perspective.

From deserted islands to delicious dishes, I’d encourage anyone to go and enjoy every tasty morsel of it for themselves.

GO: Algarve

GETTING THERE: There are multiple daily flights to Faro from most UK airports with British Airways, Ryanair, easyJet, Wizz Air and Jet2. Fares start from £29 return in May.

STAYING THERE: Double rooms at the Praia do Canal Nature Retreat are from £209, including breakfast.

See praiadocanal.pt.

Rooms at the 3*B Faro start from £148 per night.

See 3hb.com.

MORE INFO: See visitalgarve.pt.

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