wine

Owned by Hope Creature, the business sells plants, gifts and garden supplies in one building and organic drinks and pastries in another. A 50-foot greenhouse shelters indoor tropicals, organic edibles, drought-tolerant native plants and small potted succulents, which go for less than $2. The outdoor seating area is outfitted with plants available for purchase.

“A lot went into making this space architecturally stunning as well, with every design detail considered,” Creature says. “The space also serves as a platform for our ongoing community programming, which showcases what the space is all about — bringing people together to explore, learn and connect.”

The queer-owned-and-run cafe offers standard coffee fare including matcha, espresso, cortado, cold brew and drip options from local roaster Unity, as well as a selection of teas and pastries.

From gorgeous Getxo to the City of Love, you won’t want to come home from these mint mini-breaks

SPAIN – Palacio Arriluce Hotel, Getxo

Commissioning Editor Martha Cliff and fiancée Lauren found foodie heaven near Bilbao.

THE PAD

Perched on a striking cliffside overlooking the Bay of Abra in Getxo and with a beauty of an outdoor pool, this 18th-century boutique gem sits in a palatial setting and offers the perfect blend of historical charm and contemporary elegance.

Craving vistas of the rolling Basque mountains? You’ve got it. Want to gaze at boats bobbing in the harbour? No problem. A city view more your vibe? It’s got that, too.

Be sure to eat breakfast – think other-worldly Spanish tortilla and Iberico ham – on the terrace to take full advantage.

Meanwhile, come dinner at Delaunay, try local specialities such as grilled kokotxas (hake chin) on stewed spider crab, £35, and Iberian pork shoulder with passionfruit, £31.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

Eye-squintingly-rich chocolate mousse and pumpkin ice cream, £15, will seal the deal.

Return to your room – one of just 49 – and find home-made chocolates and lavender spray to aid a sublime slumber.

EXPLORE

The bustling city of Bilbao is a 20-minute metro ride away.

Join a three-hour walking tour with guide Saioa to learn about the history and architecture, £21 per person (Smartinbilbao.com).

Before you leave, head to Gran Vía, Bilbao’s shopping hub, and sample the famous butter buns, £2.75, at Pastelería Arrese.

Back in Getxo, stop by Bizkaia Bridge – the oldest transporter bridge in the world – and enjoy views of Bilbao from the 45-metre-high walkway.

Entry costs £9 per person (Puente-colgante.com).

REFUEL

Make sure you’re there on a Thursday to join locals in Getxo for “pintxo pote”, a foodie’s dream bar crawl and Basque country tradition.

Restaurante Ixta Bide offers four pintxos (small savoury snacks) – our fave was pintxo de txaka, akin to a mini crab sandwich – and two vinos for a mere £9.

Just don’t expect to bag a seat! Wind your way up the steps of Algorta to reach Arrantzale and finish on its perfectly salted pork belly (Arrantzale.com).

While day-tripping, step into one of Bilbao’s oldest bars, Café Iruña, just a hop from Arbando metro station.

Dating back to 1903, the beautiful tiling is reason enough to visit, but coffee for just £1.75, is a big pull, too.

Or opt for a glass of the local txakoli white wine, £2.70, instead (Cafeirunabilbao.com).

DON’T MISS

The works inside Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum are, of course, breathtaking, but the building itself and its surrounding sculptures – including Puppy, a massive dog made of flowers by American artist Jeff Koons – are worth the trip alone.

Entry costs £13 (Guggenheim-bilbao.eus).

BOOK IT

Double rooms at Palacio Arriluce Hotel cost from £249 B&B (Palacioarrilucehotel.com).

Fly to Bilbao from London Gatwick and Heathrow with Vueling from £56 return (Vueling.com).

FRANCE – Hôtel Dame des Arts, Paris

Creative Director Mark Hayman and wife Margaret fell for cocktails and culture in the French capital.

THE PAD

This sleek bolt-hole in the city’s Latin Quarter has shaken off its Holiday Inn past to channel full Hollywood glamour.

Think rich woods, bamboo accents and pretty palms, with rooms that feel like film sets, thanks to glass dividers, velvet finishes and luxe bathrooms made for long soaks.

Downstairs, Pimpan serves up bold Franco-Mexican fusions on a leafy terrace – highlights include beef tartare with piquillos, £12.50, lamb shoulder with harissa, £25, and hibiscus-poached pear, £11.

But the real scene-stealer is the rooftop bar, where 360-degree skyline views stretch from the Eiffel Tower to Sacré Cœur – even locals come here for the vistas.

Order a Spritz del Arte (Aperol, mango liqueur, rum and prosecco), £17, or the punchy Uno Mas margarita, £14, pop on your biggest sunglasses and watch the city turn blush at sunset.

There’s also a sauna and a gym kitted out with sculptural wooden equipment for those partial to a designer workout.

EXPLORE

First time in Paris? Glide down the Seine aboard the Batobus – this hop-on-hop-off riverboat is a relaxing (and photogenic) way to tick off major sights like the Musée d’Orsay and the Louvre.

A day pass costs £17.50 (Batobus.com).

Once on dry land, seek out legendary bookshop Shakespeare And Company – get lost in the maze of tomes and grab an iconic tote, £13 (Shakespeareandcompany.com).

For more treasure-hunting, swing by the flea market off Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine – a weekend haven of vintage mirrors, mid-century ceramics and nostalgic postcards.

There’s no entry fee, just bring cash and your best haggling game.

Then head to the Panthéon, a neoclassical gem where Voltaire, Rousseau and Marie Curie lie in dramatic crypts beneath a rooftop dome offering jaw-dropping views.

Entry costs £10 per person (Paris-pantheon.fr).

REFUEL

Lively, retro-chic Brasserie Dubillot’s espresso martinis, £10.50, are a must, but equally good is the sausage and mash with truffle sauce, £16, steak-frites, £21, and the perfect crème brûlée, £8 (Lanouvellegarde.com/brasserie-dubillot).

Craving something casual? PNY serves next-level burgers with aged beef, brioche buns and toppings like smoked cheddar and pickled jalapeños, from £11.50 (Pnyburger.com).

Or just nab a pavement perch at Café Saint-André for a croque monsieur, £10.50, a glass of sancerre, £7, and some world-class people-watching.

DON’T MISS

Notre-Dame cathedral is one of Paris’ most iconic buildings for good reason.

Step inside to take in its Gothic arches, stained glass, and newly restored grandeur.

Entry is free, but book a time slot (Notredamedeparis.fr).

BOOK IT

Double rooms at Hôtel Dame des Arts cost from £226 per night (Damedesarts.com).

Psst…

Fancy something a little more party? Rixos Premium Dubai JBR sits in one of the UAE city’s buzziest neighbourhoods, with captivating views of Ain Dubai, the world’s biggest ferris wheel.

Suave rooms come with huge tubs, rain showers and espresso machines, from £304 per night (Rixos.com).

Downstairs is Azure Beach Club with its large pool, pumping soundtrack, outdoor gym and private beach (Azure-beach.com/dubai).

The breakfast buffet is, in true Dubai style, eye-poppingly big – you can even blend your own fresh peanut butter.

COST CUTTER

John Lewis launches early Black Friday sale a MONTH early with up to £300 off

SPY STORY

Telltale clues CHEATERS use to spot you secretly reading their dodgy texts & pics

Plus, you’re half an hour’s cab ride from the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, for that classic Dubai selfie – viewing platform visits cost from £37 per person (Burjkhalifa.ae).

When you’re craving a chilled day, head to Aussie beach club Byron Bathers for lobster linguine, £37, and burrata pizza, £17, with excellent Whitsunday spritzes – an exquisite blend of grapefruit bitters, strawberry shrub, pink grapefruit, citrus vodka, Aperol and prosecco, £14 (Byronbathers.com).

GOING away to visit a Christmas market is a fun way to celebrate the festivities, and it’s even better when you can do it on the cheap.

If you head to this ‘underrated’ city, you can get a cup of mulled wine for less than £1, and other sweet treats will be a bargain too.

The city of Sibiu is known for being Romania‘s most popular Christmas destination, and it has a popular annual Christmas fair.

Whilst Sibiu may not be high on the must-visit list for Brits, it’s becoming much more accessible thanks to Wizz Air flights – and you can be there in just over three hours.

The city was even named as the 18th most underrated destination by Time Out earlier this year.

From November 14, 2025 to January 4, 2026, Sibiu will hold its Târgul de Crăciun din Sibiu which is one of the biggest Christmas markets in the city.

Read More on Winter Holidays

YULE DO

Travel expert reveals cheap UK holiday parks with Xmas breaks from £9pp a night

CHRIMBO WIN

Enter these travel comps before Xmas to win £2k holidays, ski trips & spa stays

Last year it had a huge Ferris wheel and a 600-square-meter natural ice rink with room for 300 skaters, there was also a merry-go-round and Santa’s Workshop.

Here, a cup of mulled wine will cost between five and 10 leu which is just 86p, according to eurochange.

In comparison, last year at London‘s Winter Wonderland, a cup of mulled wine set Brits back £6.10.

It’s not just the Christmas treats that are cheap, according to Wise, the cost of a three course meal for two in Sibiu costs an average of 175lei (£30).

A pint of beer can cost as little as 11lei, which translates to just £1.91. And the price of an average Cappuccino is 12.20lei (£2.11).

For an overnight stay, options on Booking.com start from £26 based on two people sharing – so that works out at just £13pppn.

In December, you can fly from Birmingham to Sibiu with Wizz Air from £17.

Another airport with direct flights to the city is from London Luton with one-way flights from £27.

There’s plenty of sightseeing to do too as the city is known for its charming old town and there are lots of medieval walls and towers to spot.

Head over to The Bridge of Lies which has lots of legends and myths behind it – and when lit up at night, it makes for a great picture spot.

According to Tripadvisor, another must-see spot in Sibiu is Muzeul Astra, the largest open air museum in Europe.

The Grand Square, which is historic and filled with market stalls, cafes, restaurants and shops – this is where the Christmas fair will be set up.

FOOTBALLER GONE

Football League star tragically dies aged just 42 after cancer battle

CHA-CHA-CHAOS

Strictly’s Amber Davies breaks silence after pro Nikita pictured kissing her

For more Christmas markets, here are the 15 cheapest in Europe for 2025.

To see Christmas markets in the UK, here are where you’ll find the prettiest in Britain.

One Wizz Air flight attendant reveals the one speciality to try in Sibiu…

When Sun Travel interviewed a Wizz Air flight attendant, she recommended a trip to Sibiu – one of her favourite places.

Flight attendant Niko said: “I’ve been to Sibiu in Romania several times already.

“You have the mountains, so there’s lots of nature, the food is amazing, everything is cheap and the people are so friendly.

“And you should try Papanasi. It’s a Romanian dessert that’s like a doughnut. It tastes amazing, but not good if you’re on a diet.”

Essentially, a Papanasi is a fried or boiled cheese doughnut usually served with sour cream and jam – and you can pick one up for around £4 in Romania.

HUNGRY Brits are being led by their stomachs when it comes to booking a holiday – as the UK establishes itself as a nation of foodies.

Research from tour operator TUI has revealed that 41 per cent of us would consider booking a trip that’s all about the nosh.

It’s little wonder as, even at home, 39 per cent said they prioritise eating out in local restaurants.

Sophie Swietochowski shares her pick of the best short-haul breaks in 2026 for those who love their grub . . . 

AYIA NAPA, CYPRUS

TO get a bit of guidance on your foodie adventure, take a look at TUI’s new Dine & Discover packages, which are designed to send travellers to hotels renowned for their food.

As well as excellent grub and booze within the resorts’ restaurants, visitors will be treated to special extras, such as a complimentary cookery lesson or a cocktail mixology class, as part of the deal.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

The 5H Amanti, MadeForTwo hotel in Ayia Napa, on Cyprus’s south-eastern coast, is marketed as a couples-only resort and is the ideal spot for a romantic escape.

Travellers booked on the TUI package will receive money off a mountain villages tour with lunch and honey tasting.

Or they can opt for a discount on a halloumi-making and bread baking experience.

GO: Seven nights’ B&B at the Amanti, MadeForTwo hotel is from £1,192pp including flights from Manchester on June 1, 2026. See tui.co.uk.

MOROCCO

IF it’s authentically traditional tastings you are after, Intrepid is the holiday company for you.

Their 12-night Morocco Real Food Adventure is undoubtedly something for the bucket list, showcasing everything from camel burgers to traditional family dinners whipped up in local homes – as well as tours of traditional markets.

Cuisine is at the heart of this trip, but you’ll tick off some pretty cool sights, too, as you pass through Casablanca, Meknes, Moulay Idriss, Chefchaouen, Fez and Midelt before moving on to Merzouga, the M’Goun Valley and, of course, Marrakech.

You’ll stay in hotels, guesthouses, gites and a desert camp.

GO: The 12-day trip costs from £984pp including accommodation, breakfasts, most dinners and some lunches.

Price also includes several foodie experiences such as a goats-cheese tasting and cous-cous demonstration. Flights extra. See intrepid.com.

DOLOMITES, ITALY

HAVING your hand held is no bad thing – and because of this, you know you’ll get the best of the best wherever you go when you book one of Saga’s food-and-wine holidays.

Every itinerary on a these getaways has been carefully curated, to include the top spots and activities on offer in that region, whether it be a visit to a local market or a cookery workshop combining culture and grub.

How does la dolce vita in the Italian mountains sound?

This week-long Dolomites tour is lip-smackingly good, with a visit to a working dairy farm, a wine-cellar tour with olive-oil samplings, and demonstrations at an apple orchard.

When you’re not tasting goodies, kick back at your hotel, the Alle Dolomiti over-looking Lake Molvano – enjoy the pool or unwind in the sauna.

GO: A seven-night Food And Wine In The Dolomites trip costs from £1,525pp on a half-board basis, including flights from Gatwick on September 21, 2026. See holiday.saga.co.uk.

BODRUM, TURKEY

HOLIDAY firm Jet2 has a specific section entirely dedicated to foodie escapes.

It is called Perfect For Dining – and these places really are.

The collection of hotels offer gourmet food, with extensive a la carte menus, and have an emphasis on local flavours.

Some of the properties even house Michelin-star restaurants.

Unlike many all-inclusive packages, the all-inclusive-plus deals at the 5H Lujo Art And Joy hotel, in sun-drenched Bodrum, cover everything.

That means not being restricted to the buffet each night, as a la carte dining at breakfast, lunch and dinner is available at most of the 11 onsite restaurants and bars.

You will have to fork out extra for the teppanyaki, steakhouse and Asian joints, though.

Kids will be kept happy with a 24-hour ice cream and frozen yoghurt stand.

GO: Seven nights’ all-inclusive-plus costs from £1,828pp based on a family of four sharing and including flights from Leeds Bradford on April 19, 2026. See jet2holidays.com.

PORTOPETRO, MAJORCA

THE Spanish island of Majorca most certainly pips the other Balearics to the post when it comes to a smashing food and drink scene.

If you’re tempted to visit, it’s worth remembering that customers booking a TUI Dine & Discover package also receive 15 per cent off food and gastronomy experiences with TUI Musement.

And on this gem of an island, that includes a Majorca Winery Visit & Local Food Tasting experience.

You’ll be driven into the heart of the island’s wine country to sample tipples from a small family-run vineyard.

Soak up that booze with homegrown snacks, fresh bread, olive oils and local cheeses.

FOOTBALLER GONE

Football League star tragically dies aged just 42 after cancer battle

CHA-CHA-CHAOS

Strictly’s Amber Davies breaks silence after pro Nikita pictured kissing her

A stay at the 5H Ikos Porto Petro also includes a free bottle of cava from the hotel’s private cellar, as well as a cocktail event on site.

GO: Seven nights’ all-inclusive at the 5H Ikos Porto Petro is from £2,240pp including flights from London Gatwick on May 5, 2026. See tui.co.uk.

ONE European spot with 17C winter temperatures has been named among the top 25 places to visit in 2026.

The ancient port city of Cadiz, in Spain, is surrounded by the sea on three sides and is full of history dating back to the 16th century when the city was used as a base for exploration and trade.

Today visitors can still see more than 100 watchtowers across the city, which were used for spotting ships.

Naming the city one of the top 25 places to visit across the globe in 2026, Lonely Planet revealed that Cadiz is best for Carnaval, fine food and flamenco.

It stated: “Cádiz’s Carnaval is Spain’s biggest annual party, bringing extravagantly costumed revelers to its streets for 10 days of parades, fireworks, singing and dancing in February or March, to the accompaniment of more than 300 local murgas (bands).

“Pack a costume and book your accommodations months in advance or commute from nearby El Puerto de Santa María.”

Read more on travel inspo

SHOW BOAT 

I tried new Omaze-style draw for superyacht holidays & lived like a billionaire

CHEAP BREAKS

UK’s best 100 cheap stays – our pick of the top hotels, holiday parks and pubs

As for the city’s food scene, visitors will often find fresh seafood dishes and many restaurants serving traditional Andalusian tapas.

Typical dishes include tortillitas de camarones – crispy fritters made with tiny local shrimp.

One top restaurant in the city is Fogón De Mariana, which serves dishes that “tell stories of their orchards, fields, and pastures, bringing you slow-cooked moments”.

Alternatively, head to Mercado Central de Abastos which is Spain‘s oldest covered market.

Inside, you can grab some fresh produce or something to eat in the gourmet food court – Rincón Gastronómico.

As for things to do in the city, there is something for everyone.

If you venture to the waterfront, you will find the domed, 18th-century Cádiz Cathedral.

The cathedral is known for its mix of baroque and neoclassical architecture and it took more than a century to build.

Inside, you can explore a crypt, museum and climb the clock tower to see panoramic views of the city.

For another amazing viewpoint, head to Torre Tavira – one of the city’s watchtowers.

Inside is also a cámara oscura (dark room) which projects live images of some of the city’s top spots.

Then in El Pópulo – Cádiz’s oldest quarter – you will find a maze of narrow alleys and archways, dating back to the medieval period.

Many of the winding alleys boast cosy tapas bars and shops as well.

It is this area that led to the city earning the nickname of ‘Cuba of Europe‘, as the narrow streets look like Little Havana and much of the architecture resembles buildings in the Cuban capital.

The city has many places to stay including Hotel Playa Victoria Cádiz – a beachfront hotel with an outdoor pool and beach sun terrace.

It costs from around £80 per night.

Of course, the city is also home to golden beaches.

La Caleta is one top spot, with a number of bars nearby that come alive at night.

One recent visitor said: “It’s a great spot to grab some food and wine and watch the fisherman’s boats on the water.”

Or you could opt to bathe on Playa de Santa Maria del Mar, which is accessible from the centre of Cadiz.

The beach features two stone piers that give it a shell-like appearance and it also has great views of the city’s old quarter.

It is the ideal spot to enjoy a bottle of wine, costing as little as €1.45 (£1.26) for a bottle from a local supermarket.

Or you could head to one of the local bars, where a glass of wine will set you back around £2.18.

Temperatures during the winter reach highs of 17C and lows of 10C.

Some airlines offer seasonal routes to Jerez Airport, which is just under 27 miles from Cadiz.

Alternatively, there are year-round flights to Seville Airport.

In November, return flights to Seville from London cost £32, from Birmingham they cost £43 and from Edinburgh they cost £46.

Once in Seville, Cadiz is about an hour and 20-minute drive away.

Alternatively, you could jump on a train that takes about an hour and 25 minutes, costing from £15 each way.

NOT KIDDING

Tutoring job with £180k salary for 1-year-old labelled a ‘nightmare’ by parents

HEATING UP

The swirling rumours about James Martin and his stunning PT girlfriend, 39

For another Spanish destination, you could head to a quaint Spanish town 30 minutes from Benidorm – it’s still warm in October and has £14 flights in half term.

Plus, Jet2 has launched new holidays to one of Spain’s cheapest cities known as the ‘Garden of Europe’.

‘We can talk about culture, churches, monasteries, whatever, but the main thing here is eating and drinking.” My guide, Loreto Esteban Guijarro, is keen to ensure I have my priorities straight. I’m with Loreto to discover the food and wine culture of Spain’s Burgos province, a high-altitude area ringed by distant mountains. In summer the days are hot, and at night temperatures plummet. To thrive in these extremes, the food, the wine, and even perhaps the people, are robust and straight-talking.

I’m staying deep in wine country at the rural Posada de Pradoray, built as a hunting lodge for the Duke of Lerma in 1601. The thick stone walls, dark polished wood and heavy doors leading to simple rooms with vineyard views suggest little has changed in this landscape for centuries. Burgos is part of the Ribera del Duero wine region which stretches for 71 miles following the Duero River through the provinces of Burgos, Segovia, Soria and Valladolid.

Since the appellation was recognised in 1982 the region has seen huge changes, with the number of wineries increasing from nine to more than 300. Now, there’s a wine route to help explore villages, wineries, restaurants and visitor experiences across the region, with plenty of sampling. My hotel is just outside Aranda de Duero, the main town in the region (population 33,000), 62 miles east of Valladolid and 102 miles north of Madrid. From here I’m following the river on day trips to get a taste of what’s on offer.

Bodegas Portia is built on the edge of the tiny town of Gumiel de Izán, eight miles (13km) north of Aranda. Designed by Norman Foster, it’s one of the new wave of wineries in the region, with a futuristic trefoil shape, like a spaceship that’s landed in these sun-scorched fields. It’s built partly underground to meld into the landscape but also in recognition of the area’s unique winemaking traditions.

Later, I meet the mayor of Gumiel de Izán, Jesús Briones, at his home – a tour with Loreto opens many doors, she knows everyone. “You’ve seen the wine cathedral [as local people refer to Portia], now see the caves,” he says. Jesús invites us into his garage from which, between tins of paint and boxes of faded Christmas decorations, stone steps twist underground. A single bulb illuminates a rough hewn cave full of barrels, dating back hundreds of years. Traditionally, wine in this region was made and stored in deep, hand-dug caves where the temperatures are stable.

Jesús’s basement isn’t unusual: underneath these streets is a warren of caves, some used, some forgotten. Down here glasses are eschewed in favour of a porrón, a glass jug with a long, narrow spout designed for sharing wine. To drink from it is a leap of faith, pouring wine above your mouth, avoiding speckling your face and clothes with crimson Tempranillo and without the porrón touching your lips. I manage it (mostly).

Gumiel de Izán has seen a recent uptick in visitors thanks to a National Geographic article that noted visual similarities between the baroque facade of the town’s Iglesia de Santa Maria, and “the treasury” rock-cut tomb in Petra, Jordan. Gazing up at the intricate sandstone carvings from the village square, I’d say here’s definitely a resemblance, and it’s helped to put the town on the map. “Anything that brings visitors,” says Jesús. “We need reasons for young people to stay.”

At Nabal winery a few miles along the road I meet one young person who’s done just that: Luz Briones studied translation but became fascinated by wine in her early 20s. She leads us through vineyards ranging from 30 years old to more than a century. “We believe in the power of time,” Luz says. “Time in vineyards, time in barrels, time in bottles.” Grapes have to work hard here, developing thick skins to cope with temperature fluctuations and creating rich, tannic wines. In the storeroom, Benedictine chanting is played to the maturing barrels, an acknowledgment of centuries of wine-making by monks. Luz says security guards report lights and music turning on when the building is empty and shows us a large stain that has appeared on the wall resembling, if you squint, a monk drinking wine. The angels’ share perhaps?

We travel downstream, the Duero snaking just out of sight, its presence marked by rippling valleys covered in vines, all benefiting from the river’s proximity. Early in the year the land looks barren, with spiky bare vines and cracked red earth, but in summer fields of lavender and sunflowers create a colourful patchwork with the green of the grapes. In the village of Moradillo de Roa, south of Aranda, we meet Paola González Ortiz carrying a porrón. She’s part of a young team offering tours of a tiny winery museum, demonstrating the heavy labour and huge weights once needed to crush grapes. The village is famed for its grassy hillocks full of wine cellar entrances, often compared to Tolkien’s The Shire. Ducking low, I follow Paola down winding steps into the hillside (being Hobbit height would help). As we share wine from the porrón, a little light filtering through the air vents, Paola says she hopes increased tourism, whether for food and wine or scenic lookalikes, will help create more year-round jobs here. Moradillo de Roa has 157 wine cellars, and a population of 162. To attract young people, the village has started hosting porrón singles nights in the town square.

I end my tour back in Aranda, with a final wine cellar, this one beneath Don Carlos wine shop. Through a dynamic tasting, Cristina López Nuñez tells stories of wine and winemakers, and why the region needs both traditions and youthful innovation. “It’s like wine. Younger grapes have more energy but fewer stories like children,” she says. “The older grapes have less energy but much better stories, like older people. The old vines with deep roots give complexity, the younger vines with shallow roots are juicy. We need both.”

When I emerge back above ground, the sleepy town has transformed. Before I saw only old men sipping coffee and smoking at wine-barrel tables, and a gaggle of children chasing a football past the imposing gothic churches. At dusk, everything changes as the bars switch from coffee to wine. “We never entertain at home,” says Loreto. “Why would we?”

At El Lagar de Isilla, the bar fills with people of all ages in office attire, hi-vis jackets, or dressed for a night out. We feast on bechamel-topped salt cod, gildas with fat olives and anchovies, and octopus cooked with potatoes and sweet paprika. The wine is cheap and delicious, straight from the restaurant’s own vineyard, and the atmosphere is lively. Loreto is satisfied: “I told you, it’s about eating and drinking – and who you share it with.” I can drink to that.

The trip was provided by the Ribera del Duero Wine Route. Double rooms at La Posada de Pradoray from €80 B&B, including wine on arrival

COLE Palmer has trademarked his nickname and celebration after a French vineyard forced him to abandon the right to sell his own brand of wine.

The Chelsea and England star won exclusive legal rights to the term “Cold Palmer” as well as his “shivering” goal celebration.

7

7

It comes after Chateau Palmer, which sells bottles of wine for as much as £750, opposed his bid to flog plonk — and won their case in August.

But, on Friday, the 23-year-old won the right to brand an array of other products, including snacks, mobile phone covers, toys, Christmas crackers and even teddy bears.

This essentially means nobody can use Palmer’s “Cold” nickname for commercial use without his permission.

He has also successfully trademarked his autograph.

An article in The Athletic detailed how the Intellectual Property Office approved the application made by the footballer’s private company, Palmer Management Limited.

In August, winemaker Chateau Palmer, based near Bordeaux, opposed the initial application.

In response to this, Palmer amended the application in September to drop any reference to wine, paving the way for the successful application.

It still covers a range of other alcoholic beverages, such as spirits, liqueurs and alcoholic energy drinks.

The winery was founded in 1814 when Army officer Charles Palmer bought the estate.

Royal wine merchant Berry Bros & Rudd says: “At their best, the wines of Ch. Palmer are among the greatest anywhere in Bordeaux.”

A bottle of its Cru Classé Margaux from 1970 is priced at £750.

Speaking to The Athletic, Karen Lee, an intellectual property lawyer at Edwin Coe, said: “Once you have a registered trademark in place, it is much easier to enforce your rights against third parties.

“Anyone using something that’s the same or similar can amount to an infringement. And that’s when it can lead to High Court litigation, which can be very expensive.”

Palmer has made no secret about the celebration not being his own original work. 

He previously admitted how, following his time in the Manchester City academy, he was inspired to perform the celebration by then team-mate Morgan Rogers. 

7

7

7

Aston Villa star Rogers, was accused of copying the celebration when he scored against Chelsea in April 2024, before he clarified: “It’s the opposite, I did it first, he copied me.”

Speaking of his celebration in a previous interview with The Telegraph, Cole said: “It symbolises joy, passion and hard determination for the game, plus it’s funny as it works well with my name.

“Everyone knows it’s my celebration. Lots of people might have done it (before me), but everybody knows it is my celebration.”

However, this could mean that Chelsea has to register for a licence if the London club wants to use his nickname in promotional material.

EA, the company behind the EA Sports FC series of video games, might also have to ask permission to use his celebration in future games.

Other footballers who have trademarked their names and celebrations include David Beckham and  Cristiano Ronaldo, who trademarked his name, CR7 initials and “Siuuu” celebration.

Lionel Messi also trademarked his surname after a legal challenge from the cycling brand Massi.

Some other stars have managed to have their brand made exclusive in specific countries, including Marcus Rashford with his name in the United States, Erling Haaland  with his signature and goal celebration in his native Norway.

7

7

Air Canada has announced it has begun serving complimentary beer, wine and snacks to economy passengers on every flight across its network, in a major win for those who love free stuff

“Two pints of lager and a packet of crisps please.”

No longer will this request be met with an eye-watering bill when made at 30,000 feet, at least on one airline.

Air Canada has announced it has begun serving free beer, wine and snacks to economy passengers on every flight across its network.

That is a significant change, as previously the airline only served free alcohol and food to economy passengers on long-haul flights.

As generous as it may sound, the policy is designed to be a cost-effective way to keep passengers flying with Air Canada. Scott O’Leary, vice president of loyalty and product, explained the rationale in a statement.

READ MORE: Definitive guide to which passengers get the middle armrests on a planeREAD MORE: ‘I’m an airline worker and passengers should only ever use one type of suitcase’

“Food and beverage tend to have a disproportionate impact on customer satisfaction. As part of our commitment to elevating the onboard experience, we’re delighted to introduce even more exciting new options to our menus,” he said.

“These upgrades offer something for everyone and proudly showcase Canadian brands so that our customers can sit back, relax and kick-start their travels no matter where they’re going.”

What customers can expect to get for free on economy flights varies significantly.

Unsurprisingly, budget carriers such as Wizz Air, Ryanair and easyJet provide nothing for free.

Airlines offering free drinks on short-haul flights include KLM, which offers a free snack and drink on all European flights, and LOT Polish Airlines, providing free beer, wine, or juice on their short-haul routes.

Free water and snacks are also typically available with British Airways, though the extent of the service can vary by division and route. For other airlines like Lufthansa and Swiss, only a complimentary bottle of water and perhaps a small snack are provided.

For short and medium-haul flights within Europe, Lufthansa offers a paid “Onboard Delights” service where passengers can purchase food and drinks.

Air France offers free food on many of its flights. While a “buy on board” system is being tested on some routes, most flights still provide complimentary meals, snacks, and beverages, depending on the flight duration and class. Passengers on short and medium-haul flights can expect a free sandwich, pastry, or snack, along with a drink.

On short and mid-haul TUI flights (less than seven hours), a variety of hot and cold snacks and drinks are available for purchase from the onboard café.

Most full-service airlines do still include meals and drinks on long-haul routes. Think flights to the US, Asia, or the Caribbean.

• British Airways: Even on the cheapest economy fare, you can get complimentary meals, snacks, and drinks.
• Virgin Atlantic: Offers free meals and drinks, and they’re known for a decent veggie option.
• Emirates, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines: All offer full meal service in economy, and it’s usually good quality. You’ll get at least two meals plus snacks and unlimited drinks.
• Turkish Airlines: Generally provides free meals on their international flights, including both economy and business class. On longer flights, passengers are typically offered a choice of main courses, side dishes, bread, and dessert. Drinks are also complimentary on all flights.
• Air France: On long-haul flights, an extensive selection of meals is offered, including hot dishes, and passengers can also purchase a la carte meals in advance.
• American Airlines: Meals and drinks are typically included on international flights, including wine and beer
• United: United Airlines offers complimentary food on most flights, especially on longer distances and for higher class tickets.
• Air Canada: Generally offers complimentary meals and snacks on international flights. On flights longer than 2 hours, you’ll typically receive a complimentary meal and beverage service, including salad, warm bread, a hot entrée, and dessert.
• Tui: On long-haul flights (seven hours or more), a complimentary meal is included. Additional drinks and snacks can still be purchased on these flights as well
• Lufthansa: Lufthansa generally provides complimentary meals and drinks on long-haul flights
• KLM: Provides complimentary meals and drinks on most of its flights. The specific offerings vary depending on the flight duration and class of travel, but generally include snacks and drinks on shorter flights and more substantial meals on longer routes.

WHETHER it’s fish and chips, a fry-up or afternoon tea and cake, British diets are pretty calorific.

And all that fat, sugar and salt is having a serious impact on our waistlines, with almost one in three of us considered obese.

6

That might seem pretty high, but it’s actually considerably lower than the 43 per cent obesity rate in the United States.

Even Australia trumps the UK at 32 per cent, and these figures don’t even account for the people who are simply overweight. 

Around the world, each country has its own way of eating; some contain lots of processed foods, while others enjoy more vegetables or have a focus on fish and meat. 

Often, these diets have a huge influence on the population’s body mass index (BMI) – a way of measuring if you’re a healthy weight. 

A score between 18.5 and 24.9 is healthy, 25 to 29.9 is overweight, and 30-plus is obese. 

Many of us think of obesity as just being fat, but it’s actually increasingly being recognised as a chronic, complex disease. 

It can have a huge, negative impact on your health, increasing your risk of type 2 diabetes, heart disease, arthritis and even some types of cancer. 

Thankfully, you can tailor your diet to help keep the number on the scales down. 

But which one is best?

Follow in the footsteps of these countries, which all have a lower obesity rate than the UK…

If you can’t face giving up cheese… eat like the French 

Obesity rate: 11 per cent 

CHEESE is big business in France. In fact, the French consume an average of 60lbs (27kg) of the stuff per person every year, according to Statistica. 

Instead of turning to low fat cheeses and spreads to stay slim, eat like the French and go for full fat.

“Fat is what gives a sense of fullness in a meal,” says Lucia Stansbie, registered nutritional therapist.

“When we eat fat, hormones telling the brain to stop eating are released, making a full fat yogurt more satisfying that a zero per cent one, so you end up needing to eat less. 

“Many low fat foods have added sugars and emulsifiers to recreate the same texture of full fat foods, making them ultra processed foods (UPFS).”

Research published in the journal Current Nutrition Reports identified UPFs as being a key driver of obesity.

6

In France, all-day grazing is a no-no – so much so, that snack products often contain a warning on the packet which says, “for your health, avoid snacking between meals”. 

“Snacks can be the downfall of all diets as they can be very calorie-dense,” says Lucia.

“And if they’re sugar-rich, they can lead to a sugar high followed by a crash so more snacks are needed to pick yourself up.

“Eating a proper meal that fills you up until your next one is the best strategy.”

Instead of having a plain, low-carb, low-calorie vegetable salad for lunch to manage your weight, enjoy a meal with a source of protein, some carbs and healthy fats to keep you full until dinner time.

“This is better than being really hungry a few hours after lunch and craving a high calorie snack,” says Jess Hillard, nutritionist at Warrior. 

Try some spicy chicken with sweet potato mash, avocado and a vinaigrette.

If you like wine… eat like the Italians

Obesity rate: 22 per cent 

ALTHOUGH alcohol can pack in some serious calories, you don’t have to go teetotal to lose weight. 

Instead, go for quality booze, in moderation, alongside food. 

“In Italy, people don’t drink on an empty stomach,” says Lucia.

“Doing so leads to sugar spikes and then sugar crashes, so we eat quick-release carbs such as crisps or sweets to get our energy back.”

One way to flatten this spike is eating a decent meal. 

The size of serving plates in Italy are also smaller than the standard UK plates so smaller portions are eaten

Lucia StansbieNutritional therapist

Lucia adds: “In Italy, there is a big focus on quality and taste. 

“People don’t drink a cheap bottle of wine to get drunk. Instead, they match a nice glass of wine with the meal they are having. 

“Culturally, getting drunk and excessive drinking are frowned upon. 

“This makes a massive difference in the amount of alcohol that is consumed.”

Italian mealtimes are also leisurely. Rather than wolfing down lunch at a desk while frantically working on a deadline, Italians eat mindfully. 

“Mindful eating leads to eating slower and feeling fuller sooner, while eating while distracted – such as while working or watching TV – will lead to less satisfaction and mindlessly eating bigger amounts of foods or looking for snacks,” says Lucia.

6

Don’t forget to add olive oil – the main fat used in Italy – to your meals too.

A study published in the European Journal of Nutrition found that fat loss was approximately 80 per cent higher for participants who included 25ml of extra virgin olive oil in their diet compared to those who didn’t. 

Lucia adds: “The size of serving plates in Italy are also smaller than the standard UK serving plates, so smaller portions are eaten.”

Why not try swapping your dinner plates for side plates or pasta bowls? You’ll be forced to reduce your portion!

If you love carbs… eat like the Japanese 

Obesity rate: 5 per cent 

DESPITE popular belief, carbohydrates are certainly not the devil when it comes to weight loss. 

Not only could they actually help you slim down, they could even help you live longer.

Japan is home to Okinawa – a ‘blue zone’, where many people live to 100 and beyond. 

Their diet? An estimated 10:1 carbohydrate-to-protein ratio, according to a study in the journal Age and Ageing – yes, that’s 10 times as much carbs as protein!

While you definitely shouldn’t turn your back on protein, you shouldn’t fear carbs. 

But Lucia says the type of carbs you choose will make a huge difference.

“Wholegrains have a higher fibre content, which means that the sugar spike won’t be so high, while white carbs are devoid of all fibre,” she adds.

“The body can manage a maximum of 4g of sugar in the blood at a time; the excess will be stored either in the liver as glycogen or as abdominal fat.

“Eat slow release carbs – such as wholegrains – and pair them with fibre (such as vegetables), proteins (such as meat, fish and eggs) and fats (such as avocado, olive oil and nuts) to ensure a slow release of sugar in the blood system for sustained energy and weight management.”

6

Tuck into seafood and cut back on red meat.

“Fish and seafood are excellent sources of protein,” says Lucia.

“Just 100g of fish has, on average, the same amount of protein as 100g of meat but fewer calories.

“Oysters are the richest source of zinc. People with diabetes, which is often linked to obesity, tend to have lower zinc levels.  

“Plus, fish and shellfish are sources of iodine, a mineral essential for thyroid function, and suboptimal function can lead to increased weight and fatigue.” 

If you love chocolate… eat like the Swiss

Obesity rate: 14 per cent 

LINDT, Toblerone, Nestlé – some of the best chocolate in the world comes from Switzerland. 

So how can such a chocolate-filled nation remain so slim?

Along with an active lifestyle, Jess says that listening to your body is key. 

“Ignoring cravings makes you want them even more and binge on them eventually,” she says.

“Have a balanced meal before the chocolate you’re craving. 

“If you still want some chocolate, break off a few squares and put the rest of the bar away.” 

6

Depriving yourself will only make you want it more and make you more likely to scoff the whole bar! 

The Swiss also love their oily fish.

“Oily fish contains high levels of omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA,” Jess says.

“These are excellent for brain health and they’ve been found to reduce the risk of heart disease.

“Aim for two portions of fish per week. One of these should be oily, such as salmon, mackerel or sardines.”

Aim for two fists of vegetables, one palm full of carbohydrates and one palm of protein. Any fats should be thumb-size

Jess HillardNutritionist

Omega-3s have been found to potentially help with fat loss.

In a study published in the Journal of the International Society of Sports Nutrition, adults given 4g of fish oil per day lost 0.5kg of body fat and built more muscle than those who were not given fish oil.

Plus, research published in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition found that incorporating fish into one meal a day as part of a weight loss regime was more effective than the regime on its own. 

“Fish’s high oil content keeps you fuller for longer as well as helping to decrease inflammation in the body,” says Jess.

Inflammation can lead to health problems, including chronic inflammation, which can even cause the body to hold onto fat, especially visceral fat which sits around your organs.

If you struggle to eat your five-a-day… eat like the Vietnamese 

Obesity rate: 2 per cent 

NOODLE soups, grilled meats, broths and plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables are the order of the day in Vietnam, which boasts an incredibly low obesity rate.

Most dishes are delicious, yet nutritious – so you don’t even notice how much veg you’ve eaten.

“Vegetables are filled with fibre which will keep you fuller for longer,” says Jess.

“They also contain few calories as well as high levels of vitamins and minerals, particularly non-starchy vegetables such as carrots, broccoli, peas and leafy greens.

“Having a nutrient rich diet won’t just ‘stop cravings’ for high fat and/sugary foods.

“You will feel fuller after meals, meaning you won’t feel the need for these foods as much.”

6

She recommends filling half your plate with veg at every meal, and to make sure your veggies retain their nutrients, choose steaming over boiling or frying.

Research published in the journal Nutrition & Food Science found that when steamed, vegetables such as broccoli, spinach and lettuce lose nine to 15 per cent of their vitamin C content.

The Vietnamese way of eating is an easier way to get these veggies into meals – you can buy noodle soup kits in supermarkets to try at home.

Compared to many western countries, Vietnam’s portions are also fairly moderate. 

Practising portion control is simple and can be done using just your hands. 

“Aim for two fists of vegetables, one palm full of carbohydrates and one palm of protein,” says Jess.

“Any fats, such as oils, butter and cheese, should be thumb-size.”

Elbi Henshaw, 23, decided to move from London to Dubai after visiting the UAE city for a holiday and falling in love with the lifestyle

A Brit who was fed up with the “miserable” and “sedentary” life in the UK decided to move to Dubai, despite having to work six days a week to afford the “luxurious” lifestyle where a glass of wine costs a minimum of £20. Elbi Henshaw, 23, relocated to Dubai in January after holidaying there and realising how “miserable” life is in the UK.

Having previously worked in Saudi Arabia, she decided to give the famously opulent city in the UAE a go, seeking a change in lifestyle. The personal trainer, originally from Barnet, North London, moved to Dubai with financial assistance from her parents and secured full-time employment at a gym.

Eight months later, she’s settled and thriving in the city, which is a magnet for British influencers due to its beautiful weather, stunning views and luxury nightlife. However, she admits to missing UK pubs and pub culture.

Elbi revealed that it’s not all fun and games as everything is so pricey – with yoghurt costing £12 and coffee starting from £7 – that it becomes a “dog-eat-dog” lifestyle with people working six-day weeks and taking on extra work to make ends meet. Elbi is now fond of her location, but confesses she “didn’t like it at first” because it can feel “lonely” trying to establish a circle of friends in such a high-pressure environment.

Elbi stated: “In the UK, I was so depressed and miserable and everyone is so sedentary – I wanted a more active lifestyle. Out here, everyone is happier and active and they all want to be the best versions of themselves.

“I work full time, but it’s hard not to just spend all your money – you’d need about £5,000 a month here to live comfortably. But you can pick up extra work quite quickly – at the moment I work six days, but I’ll probably end up working seven.

“Paying no tax is a perk, but the cost of living out here is so expensive that it ends up the same as in the UK. But here, you get the sun and a much better lifestyle – although I miss the pubs.”

Elbi relocated to Dubai in January – initially residing in a studio flat before moving into shared accommodation with two other young women. After joining a local running club, she struck up a conversation with someone who put her in touch with a gym manager and landed her first Dubai role as a personal trainer.

She was instantly struck by the sheer amount of activities and attractions the city had to offer – from fine dining at upmarket restaurants to browsing the renowned Dubai Mall. Since she was relocating solo, Elbi admitted the initial months proved challenging whilst getting established and sorting out the necessary paperwork and banking arrangements. She quickly recognised the “fast-paced and non-stop lifestyle”, with residents frequently clocking up lengthy working weeks to fund life in the glamorous destination beloved by A-listers.

Elbi explained: “The rent is more expensive than the UK and you have to pay big deposits on things like apartments and cars. Clothing is more expensive too – and coffee is like £7 minimum, sometimes as much as £10 a cup.

“I’d say the average salary for a normal person here is like £3,000 a month, but you want more like £5,000 to live comfortably if you want to go out for meals and buy new clothes. I try to work, work, work so that I can enjoy Dubai – there are lots of group chats and apps for companies to advertise weekend work.”

However, she revealed it doesn’t amount to significantly more than life in Britain – where you’re liable for taxes – apart from Dubai’s breathtaking scenery and climate. Eight months on, she’s absolutely adoring her existence there, grafting as a personal trainer at an upmarket gymnasium frequented by “high-end clients”. She’s built friendships and has no immediate intentions of returning home.

She explained: “You have to put your ego aside and put yourself out there – I messaged other women out of the blue, inviting them for coffee.”

Elbi expressed her admiration for Dubai’s pristine conditions – as “everywhere is spotless” and “it makes you realise how dirty the UK is”. During her downtime, Elbi enjoys strolling through the air-conditioned shopping centres and visiting Dubai’s incredibly lavish cinemas.

She fills her leisure hours at the swimming pool – exclusive beach clubs like Summersalt, adored by celebrities including Molly-Mae Hague and Kady McDermott, plus Twiggy club, favoured by Paris Hilton.

Nevertheless, she acknowledged Dubai can be challenging as there’s reduced “sense of community” for young people, making romance difficult without relying on dating applications.

She said: “It’s so hard to meet guys, because there are no authentic meet-ups. People don’t stand in the streets around pubs – you have to schedule it in.

“And it’s hard to date as everyone is so busy 24/7 that you never find the time. I do miss the sense of community and pubs in the UK.

“I love it, but I can’t really imagine meeting someone out here and it becoming serious. People come out here who already have a partner or family, and the ones who are single are never looking for anything serious. I could see myself building a life here, but if I get to 27 and I’m not in a relationship, I’ll move back to the UK as I want to start a family.”

Costs in Dubai

Cappuccino 34dh – £6.86

Mince meat 25dh – £5

Strawberries 30/40dh – £6-£8

Fage yoghurt 1L 60dh – £12

Cheapest thing in Zara 130/150dh – £26/30

Glass of wine when out minimum 99dh – £20

There are no signs to the hot spring, but I locate it on the map and we drive to the end of the paved road. Overlooking the sea is a stone bench someone has dedicated to her parents, “with gratitude and love as deep as the Aegean”. My dad died recently and the words strike home. I’m glad my mum has joined me on this little adventure.

We walk down to the deserted cove at Agia Kyriaki thermal springs. There are old fishing shacks with stone-slab roofs, and shuttered cottages. Down an unmarked path, we find a rock pool where hot waters bubble gently from the sand, blending with the sea to a perfect temperature. Immersed in the healing mineral bath, I look up at juniper trees and blue sky, lulled by lapping waves and cicadas.

Ikaria, in the eastern Aegean – named after Icarus, the Greek mythological figure who flew too close to the sun – is known for its forests, springs and wine, communist leanings and longevity. Its population of about 8,000 is spread across dozens of scattered villages over 255 sq km, with few dedicated to tourism, and it only really gets busy in July and August. We arrive in mid-June from Kos (ferries also connect Samos and Athens to the port of Evdilos) at the port of Agios Kirykos and drive north-east to Faros, which has a mile of beach without a single hotel. The house we’ve rented for our first few days, Lighthouse Lodge, is perfectly located next to a cafe-bar and two tavernas – the hot spring a few kilometres away.

While Mum reads in the shade of a tamarisk tree on the beach in front of the house, I walk around the mastic- and thyme-covered cape to Drakano tower, with remains of fortifications from the fourth century BC. The lofty peak of Samos and the Fourni islands are the only features in an expanse of blue – the space and light are mesmerising.

A few Greek families with young children linger on Faros beach until dark. At Grigoris taverna, we eat grilled sardines and soufiko, summer vegetables cooked slowly in olive oil, and drink Ikarian red wine. Then we fall asleep to the sound of the waves.

The next day we explore the north of the cape, swimming in the clear turquoise waters of Iero bay, near the cave where legend has it that Dionysus was born.

Getting to Monokampi, a pretty village 15km inland from Agios Kirykos, and our base for the following two nights, requires negotiating the forest-covered Atheras mountain, which stretches in a 40km ridge across the full length of the island, rising to more than 1,000 metres. Our route zigzags up a vertiginous slope, cypresses poking up from the tangle of trees.

We’re late and I call George, owner of Moraitika Farmhouse, to say we’re on the mountain somewhere. “Ten kilometres in Ikaria are not like 10km anywhere else!” he laughs. When we arrive, George shows us around what was his great-grandmother’s farm, lovingly restored over 15 years. Three houses are now tourist accommodation, while the oldest one, from the 14th century, is like a museum to old Ikarian life, with a large fireplace for smoking meat, an inbuilt oven and a secret back door for escaping from pirate raids. A forest of arbutus (strawberry tree), oak, olive and ivy has grown over the once-cultivated terraces and the footpath his grandmother used to walk over the mountain.

In the evening on the terrace, as the sun descends over the sea, we eat local cheese with an organic dry white wine, Begleri – all picked up en route, as we’re a long drive from a taverna. Eleonora’s falcons swoop, an owl hoots and there are tiny, bright lights of glow-worms.

In the cool morning, birds sing their hearts out. We walk through Monokampi’s village square, dominated by a huge plane tree, and follow a sign to Agia Sofia, a hidden chapel built into a rocky spur. Mum points out honeysuckle and walnut trees, and we pick mulberries and plums.

The next day we descend to the coast and continue west, stopping at Karavostamo for a swim and fresh spinach pies from the bakery, then we drive on, looking for a place to stay for the next few nights. We stop above an impressive beach at Gialiskari, but there’s the thump of music from a bar so we keep going.

At Nas, we pull in at a taverna. After a lunch of courgette fritters, herby meatballs and homemade cheesecake with sea views, we think we might have found our place. We walk on until we spy a lush river canyon and a sparkling cove, and soon find rooms at Artemis Studio.

Steps lead down the rock to the bamboo-fringed estuary, where swallows and damselflies flit. The other bank is dominated by the walls of an ancient harbour and a ruined sanctuary for the worship of Artemis, protector of nature and wildlife. The waters flow from the deep, pine-covered Halari gorge, which extends several kilometres inland, with paths leading in various directions. The riverbed, with pink-flowering oleander and little waterfalls, fills with wild campers in mid-summer. For now, quiet reigns.

We quickly fall in love with Nas. Mum swims in the freshwater lagoon with the frogs; I swim in the sea, which is cold enough to leave my skin tingling. When the sun sets into the ocean, we settle on Artemis’s peaceful terrace for baked aubergine with kathoura cheese and red peppers, and goat roasted in olive oil and wine. The taverna is run by Thanasis, a musician who offers tours of his family’s organic farm, and Anna, who has a ceramics studio and shop, where we take our time choosing pretty jewellery.

After a breakfast of fresh juice, eggs and Ikarian smoked ham at nearby Reiki cafe, we head on to our next stop, in the village of Agios Polykarpos. We’re staying at Monopati Eco Stay, which has studios of stone, wood and bamboo, with large windows framing a magnificent view of blue sky, canyon and forest.

The owner says we will find his 87-year-old mother in the garden. Svelte and sprightly Popi, covered up against the sun, is thinning out her basil plants and beams at us. She shows us terraces filled with courgettes, sweet potatoes, aubergines and tomatoes. The next day she picks me apricots, shows me how to make basil pesto with walnuts and sunflower seeds, and tries teaching me to dance the ikariotiko, with a deep laugh when I mix up the steps.

Her philosophy is: good food, good thoughts and outdoor exercise. Every morning, she looks at the magic of nature and feels gratitude. “We only have one life – we must make the most of it.”

Mum and I feel that exact sentiment as we wave goodbye. We’ve made the most of our two weeks of discovery in Ikaria. We leave not only revived by good food and rest, but energised and inspired by the sweeping landscapes and time together, with precious memories to last a lifetime.

Lighthouse Lodge, Faros, from £105 a night (sleeps 4, minimum three nights); Moraitika Farmhouse, Monokampi, from £55 per house (sleeps 2-4); Artemis Studio, Nas, from £40 per studio (sleeps 2); Monopati Eco Stay, Agios Polykarpos, from £80 per studio (sleeps 4-6, minimum three nights)

One of the best parts of Bodevi is the space itself, decorated with colorful wall decor, leather chairs and houseplants. Owned by husband-and-wife duo Joeleen and Miguel Medina, who also own Truman House Tavern next door, Bodevi has a boho-chic aesthetic that matches both its daytime coffee shop crowd and its eccentric evenings, when customers often drift to the back room for board games, beer and wine in hand.

Whether you go for a DJ set or a journaling session (check Instagram for upcoming events), accompany your evening with charcuterie. Bodevi offers two options: one charcuterie board and a smaller personal plate. It also has $18 wine flights — for the most variety, opt for the Studio 54, which comes with a light South African Champagne, a Portuguese white, a bright rosé and a 2021 Pinot Noir.

The feel of an Italian festa in Altadena, the South Bay’s “time capsule” Japanese food scene, delivery drones, a tasting menu hidden in a parking lot, more downtown L.A. closures, a Basque restaurant’s last days. Plus, recycle or reuse? And a bar that celebrates burlesque and red Solo cups. I’m Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week’s Tasting Notes.

Good food, good wine, good neighbors

The happy, chaotic scene outside Good Neighbor Bar and West Altadena Wine + Spirits with families enjoying Triple Beam Pizza, one of the rotating vendors appearing during the shop and bar’s summer pop-up series.

(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)

When I first started going to Italy for summer vacations with my late husband, Jonathan Gold, and the extended friends and family of chef Nancy Silverton, we’d get to know different areas of Umbria and Tuscany through festas or sagras, local gatherings centered around a specific regional dish or ingredient — maybe cinghiale (wild boar), porcini mushrooms, summer truffles or various pastas such as strozzapreti (which is being celebrated this week in the Umbrian town of Paciano). These are kid-friendly, come-as-you-are parties, typically on a soccer field or town square with long tables, local wine poured into plastic cups and food often served by volunteer cooks pitching in to help raise money for a good cause.

Until recently, the closest I’d come to experiencing that sagra spirit in Los Angeles was the run of summer movie nights that Leo Bulgarini used to host outside his Altadena gelateria and restaurant Bulgarini Gelato Vino Cucina. He and his crew piled plates with pasta and salad before sunset signaled the start of the movie, often an Italian comedy or melodrama, projected onto an outdoor wall or a large, jerry-rigged screen. People would bring their kids and dogs, meet up with neighbors and settle into camping chairs or benches with their wine or cups of gelato once the movie began.

Bulgarini’s restaurant, which escaped the flames of the Eaton fire in January, has yet to reopen because of smoke damage and the loss of so much of the neighborhood around his shop — not to mention the fact that he, his wife and their son lost their home in the blaze.

But two other Altadena business owners have joined forces with local restaurants to create one of the most welcoming neighborhood gatherings with the soul of an Italian sagra.

As senior food editor Danielle Dorsey wrote in the guide she and Stephanie Breijo put together on the 21 best new bars in Los Angeles, a summer pop-up series has emerged outside Good Neighbor, “the first cocktail bar to open in Altadena in 40 years,” and West Altadena Wine + Spirits, both opened last year by Randy Clement and April Langford, the couple behind Everson Royce Bar in the Arts District, Silverlake Wine and the former Pasadena wine shop Everson Royce.

On Tuesday nights, Brisa Lopez Salazar’s Casa pop-up serves tacos with a different handmade tortilla each week — maybe white heirloom corn with beet juice or masa infused with turmeric or activated charcoal. On Thursdays, Triple Beam Pizza shows up; Fridays there are oysters, poke bowls and lobster rolls from Shucks Oyster Co.; Saturdays you can get smash burgers from For the Win and, new to the line-up, Altadena’s recently reopened Miya Thai restaurant is serving on Sundays.

Triple Beam’s heirloom tomato pizza served at the summer outdoor pop-up series hosted by Good Neighbor Bar and West Altadena Wine + Spirits.

(Laurie Ochoa / Los Angeles Times)

Two weeks ago, an Instagram post from Triple Beam about its newest heirloom tomato pizza drew me to the outdoor space just outside the Altadena burn zone. I found the patio packed, sagra-style, with groups of families and friends from the neighborhood and beyond. Kids chased each other in and around a wood-chip-bedded play area fitted with reclaimed tree stumps; more freshly sawed stumps were repurposed as stools and tables around the outdoor space. Dogs sat on laps or at customers’ feet. A roving Good Neighbor barkeep took cocktail orders at the picnic tables. And on the side of the building, at a takeout-style window, a West Altadena Wine merchant was selling glasses and flights of wine.

Almost as soon as I arrived, I reconnected with a friend I hadn’t seen in years as well as a family from my daughter’s old high school. The San Gabriel mountains in the near distance turned pink and purple during sunset, framed by a U-Haul sign as we ate our pizza, which arrived with all colors and shapes of tomato. With it, we sipped Sébastien Bobinet and Émeline Calvez’s Piak blanc de noir from clear plastic cups. It was a perfect summer evening, made poignant with a stop on the way out at the wall-sized map created by Highland Park production designer Noel McCarthy marking the more than 9,000 homes and businesses destroyed or damaged in the fire, and the places where people died. The map, as writer Marah Eakin reported in April, has helped people visualize the shocking extent of the fire’s devastation, even as Good Neighbor’s summer gatherings have brought people together, a reminder of why so many want to rebuild this community.

The map Noel McCarthy made displaying the extent of damage in Altadena from the Eaton fire. It is installed outside the parking lot and patio area of the Good Neighbor Bar and West Altadena Wine + Spirits.

(Marcus Ubungen / For The Times)

Japanese food ‘made the Japanese way’

The D-Combo at Fukagawa in Gardena.

(Rob Gauthier / Los Angeles Times)

Food’s summer intern Lauren Ng is headed back to school soon, but before she left to resume her studies at New York University, the Torrance native finished a project examining the “time capsule” nature of Japanese food in the South Bay. The area is “home to the biggest suburban Japanese community in the United States,” thanks in no small part to three of Japan’s biggest automakers — Toyota, Honda and Nissan — establishing their U.S. headquarters in the region during the 1960s. The car companies are now gone, but many of the restaurants remain, with a new generation of South Bay places opened in recent years. Ng visited many of them and wrote a guide to 18 of the best Japanese restaurants and food producers in the South Bay.

A loss for Chinatown

Yue Wa Market owner Amy Tran holds up dragon fruit and cherimoya at her Chinatown market in 2019.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

In 2019, when former Times columnist Frank Shyong reported on the changes in Chinatown that contributed to the closure of Ai Hoa Market and G and G Market, he wrote that one of the few places left to buy affordable fruits and vegetables in the neighborhood was Amy Tran’s Yue Wa Market. Now, as columnist Jenn Harris wrote this week, Tran and her family will close Yue Wa next month after 18 years serving Chinatown. A spate of robberies, slow pandemic recovery, ICE raids and the forces of gentrification contributed to the family’s decision.

“I don’t feel ready to let go of the store, but there’s not much I can do to bring more people in,” Tran told Harris. “Business was booming and a lot of people used to come around, but now there is no foot traffic and a lot of people have moved away from Chinatown.”

More downtown losses: It was only a couple of weeks ago that I was at downtown L.A.’s Tokyo Fried Chicken, where, I must admit, the dining room was sparsely populated but four-wheeled robot carts were kept busy with takeout deliveries. Yet as Karla Marie Sanford reported this week, after owners Elaine and Kouji Yamanashi announced they were closing the restaurant Aug. 10, customers suddenly showed up and waited in an hours-long line for one last chance to eat the chicken known for its super-crisp skin and soy sauce-ginger marinade. It was a brief return to the restaurant’s days in its original Monterey Park location where lines for a table were constant.

The downtown location had the bad luck to open just before the pandemic and never had a chance to reach its full potential. Elaine Yamanashi told Sanford that she and her chef husband hope at some point to find a new location for Tokyo Fried Chicken. “We’re taking this time, not off,” she said, “but to reflect.”

Angel City Brewery.

(Sam Samders)

Meanwhile, Angel City Brewery, founded in 1997 by Michael Bowe then acquired in 2012 by Boston Beer — a year after the company established its downtown brewpub location notable for its distinctive neon signage that acted as a welcome to the Arts District — announced that it will close next April when the building’s lease is up.

“The brand no longer lines up with our long-term growth strategy,” said a Boston Beer spokesperson, adding that the company plans to focus on its “core national brands,” which include Samuel Adams.

And LA Cha Cha Chá in the Arts District, with its lush, tropical rooftop, is also set to close sometime this fall according to co-owner Alejandro Marín.

End of the Basque road

In addition to prime rib at the Glendora Continental, which is being put up for sale, French Basque dishes like slow-braised lamb in a Burgundy demi-glace, pickled tongue and escargots à la bourguignonne are on the menu, along with crab cakes and salads.

(Catherine Dzilenski / For The Times)

There wasn’t an empty seat at Glendora Continental when contributor Jean Trinh stopped into the 45-year-old restaurant on Route 66, “a reminder,” she writes, “of fading connections to the Basque diaspora in California.” Now that the owners have put the restaurant up for sale, its days are numbered so regular customers have been showing up for live music and the Continental’s “mix of Basque, French and American food,” including lamb shank, prime rib, pickled tongue and escargots à la bourguignonne. “I would say it’s Basque with a sprinkle of American,” co-owner Antoinette Sabarots told Trinh, “or vice versa.”

Yes, restaurants are still opening

Oy Bar chef-owner Jeff Strauss, left, with sous chef Esteban Palacios at Vey, the tandem outdoor bar.

(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)

Despite all the closure news, as Stephanie Breijo reports, good restaurants keep opening in Los Angeles, including Baby Bistro from chef Miles Thompson and his sommelier business partner, Andy Schwartz. They call it an “Angeleno bistro,” with inspiration from Japanese, Korean, Italian, Mexican, French and more cuisines. “I think the food is really defined by the cultures of Los Angeles,” Thompson told Breijo. “If you already eat at any of the regional or international restaurants in this city, you’ll find inspiring foods that go into this menu.”

And chef Jeff Strauss, of the Highland Park deli Jeff’s Table and OyBar in Studio City, has set up a weekend-only six-course tasting menu spot called Vey in the back parking lot of OyBar. As Strauss described it to Breijo, he thinks of it as “a casual, rolling omakase.”

Another hidden spot is Evan Funke’s new Bar Avoja (slang for “hell yeah”), a Hollywood cocktail lounge accessed through the dining room of the chef’s Mother Wolf restaurant. In addition to drinks, Roman street food is on the menu. Meanwhile, the chef’s namesake Beverly Hills restaurant, Funke, is temporarily closed due to a fire in the kitchen’s exhaust system on Tuesday. As Breijo reported, no one was hurt and there was minimal damage.

Also, Hong Kong’s Hi Bake chain has opened a pet-friendly branch in Beverly Hills serving “banana rolls, thousand-layer cakes, meat floss rolls and egg tarts. And San Francisco’s Boichik Bagels, which opened in Los Feliz earlier this year, is now serving at downtown L.A.’s landmark Bradbury Building.

Burlesque and red Solo cups

Uncle Ollie’s Penthouse owner Brian Houck in the “backvan” at his downtown Los Angeles bar.

(Roger Kisby / For The Times)

Former L.A. Weekly nightlife columnist and Los Angeles magazine editor Lena Lecaro writes about Uncle Ollie’s Penthouse, a new downtown L.A. bar with “wild, color-saturated decor, potent cocktails served in red Solo cups and a soundtrack that inspires stomping the floor with pals or singing along with strangers.”

”I can’t remember the last time I felt so connected to my hometown as an L.A. native,” musician Taleen Kali told Lecaro. “I also love that you get to keep your own party cup all night — it’s a total vibe, plus it’s less wasteful and more sustainable.”

Noodles easier to make than you think

Mei Lin, chef and proprietor of 88 Club chef in Beverly Hills, right, makes mung bean noodles in the Times Test Kitchen. Left, the finished spicy mung bean noodles.

(Mark Potts / Los Angeles Times)

When Mei Lin, chef and proprietor of 88 Club in Beverly Hills and former “Top Chef” and “Tournament of Champions” winner, demonstrated her spicy mung bean noodle recipe in the Times Test Kitchen for our “Chef That!” video series, we all wanted to try making the noodles. It’s a lot easier and fun to do than most of us thought. You start with a startchy base that thickens into jelly in a bowl. After you unmold the gelatinous blob, you scrape a grater over the mound, forming the noodles. Then it’s just a matter of seasoning the noodles with chile, peanuts and herbs.

Mark the dates

The Times’ Food Bowl Night Market, this year presented by Square, is taking place Oct. 10 and 11 at City Market Social House downtown. Among the participating restaurants announced so far are Holbox, Baroo, the Brothers Sushi, OyBar, Heritage Barbecue, Crudo e Nudo, Hummingbird Ceviche House, Rossoblu, Perilla LA, Evil Cooks and Holy Basil. VIP tickets that allow early entry always go fast. Check lafoodbowl.com for tickets and info.

And at this year’s LA Chef Conference on Oct. 6, an all-day event taking place at Redbird and Vibiana in downtown L.A., I’ll be on a panel with Roy Choi, Nancy Silverton, Ludo Lefebvre and Evan Kleiman talking about the legacy of Jonathan Gold. Find information on tickets and other events at the conference here.

Also …

(Los Angeles Times photo illustration; Photo by Nick Agro/For The Times)

Znojmo, a town in the South Moravian region of the Czech Republic, is one of the most pleasant yet overlooked places in Europe and the flights are so cheap.

A stunning European destination where you can visit for merely £16 and savour a glass of wine for just 50p ranks among the continent’s most undervalued gems. You’ll want to visit it.

Znojmo, situated in the South Moravian region of the Czech Republic, stands as one of Europe’s most delightful yet overlooked locations.

Frequently likened to Tuscany for its wine tourism and vineyard landscapes, this hidden European treasure also boasts numerous vineyards and breathtaking vistas. In other travel news, a woman claims ‘I work in a hotel – you should never turn your lights on when entering your room’.

READ MORE: Jet2 launch new route from UK airport to Greek island loved for its sandy beachesREAD MORE: Popular town ‘on the brink’ as hundreds of cruise ships bring tourists flooding in

With 34,000 residents, Znojmo represents one of Czechia’s most ancient municipalities, tracing its origins to the 11th century. Established by King Ottokar I of the Premyslid dynasty, this enchanting Royal settlement continues to radiate its abundant heritage from every cobbled lane, reports the Express.

Znojmo has earned recognition for its viticultural traditions, which have flourished since mediaeval times. Within Znojmo’s historic heart sits Enotéka, a wine establishment featuring a contemporary café.

Positioned on the grounds of the Znojmo brewery, offering spectacular panoramas of the settlement and Dyje river valley, guests can sample over 120 varieties of regional wines from prominent local vintners for as little as 50p. Nevertheless, Znojmo offers far more than viticulture. The settlement features a complex maze of tunnels beneath the town centre, known as the “underground passages”.

Guests can participate in a 60-minute guided exploration, discovering the settlement’s history and its tunnels, which have generated numerous theories regarding their purpose. Some reckon these were once used as storage spaces and for transporting goods, while others suggest they served as hideouts from foes.

READ MORE: Easyjet, Ryanair and Jet2 passengers urged to ‘pack a roll of cling film’ in luggage

Don’t miss out on visiting the Znojmo castle, Louka Monastery – one of Europe’s most significant monastery complexes dating back to the 12th century, now housing millions of wine bottles – and Podyjí National Park, nestled between the towns of Znojmo and Vranov nad Dyjí.

Despite its relatively small size, the park is teeming with natural beauty. It tempts travellers with its stunning vistas, untouched charm, pervasive tranquillity, and hundreds of rare animal and plant species. Podyjí is a must-visit for every nature enthusiast.

With Ryanair flights starting at just £16 from the UK to Brno, a nearby airport, you can reach this delightful destination in merely two hours. Brno, the country’s second-largest city, is just over 70 km away from Znojmo, while Vienna, Austria’s capital, is less than 90 km away. The short distance from these two popular cities makes Znojmo an ideal day trip destination.

If you’re planning a journey to the south of Czech Republic or even to Vienna, make sure to include Znojmo in your travel plans!

Claire Donnelly visited Lake Annecy in France, launching herself down the sides of mountains on an e-bike in pursuit of thrills, strong cheese and delicious wine

When our tour guide asked me if I fancied trying an e-bike – and mentioned that we’d be stopping for cheese and drinks en route – I didn’t need asking twice.

On holiday in the French Alps, staying in a stunning chalet above Lake Annecy, it sounded like a perfect way to spend an afternoon. I pictured myself pootling along flat, leafy trails, taking breaks to marvel at the dazzling, turquoise water or nibbling local cheese while I sipped a glass of wine.

I was heading out with a group and a guide, and after a quick e-bike tutorial – I’d never ridden one before, but our instructor made everything clear – we set off, making our way to the centre of La Clusaz, a charming Alpine village famous for its winter skiing and summer sports.

READ MORE: Disabled woman’s warning after easyJet ‘destroys’ rare family holidayREAD MORE: ‘I went to Elvis Evolution to see if it’s as bad as everyone’s been saying’

So far, so good. This terrain was pretty easy, and I figured that once we left the town behind, we’d start enjoying some cheese and chilled-out cycling vibes. But as our guide zipped through the streets, I realised we were heading to some kind of registration point. When we got there I was given a number to pin on my back and I thought I heard someone say something about ski lifts.

Looking around I noticed a timed finish line, info points and billboards covered in printed route maps… and realised, like an idiot, I’d signed up for what looked suspiciously like an Alpine mountain bike race.

Before I could worry or ask for more details, we were on the move again and heading up, up, up towards the mountain. I live in West Yorkshire, in a valley known for its rugged landscape and killer hills – but even by my Pennine standards, this was steep.

The e-bikes handled the gravel and incline with ease, though, and in a few minutes, we were having our bikes hauled aboard the ski lift and gliding towards the 1500m-high summit. Making our way to the start line, we passed a lot of serious-looking cyclists, checking their smart watches and adjusting their designer shades.

My Aldi cycling shorts and Zara vest were holding up well, but looking down the town seemed a long way away and we were all feeling a bit out of our depth. It was at this point that one of our group revealed that the last time she tried mountain biking she’d fallen off and injured herself, leaving her traumatised, another mentioned she’d not been on a bike of any kind for 20 years.

Our lovely guide reassured us that there were a few races that day and we were joining, the Rando 3 Fromages, a relatively easy 12km version and we could stop or walk whenever we needed to.

As he said, we’d spend a couple of hours making our way downhill, stopping off to fortify ourselves with local cheeses, provided by artisan farmers. Held every year for the last four years, the Rondo is the easiest part of a dedicated biking and mountain sports weekend, the Bélier VTT.

It’s one of several that take place here as the region pushes to extend its tourist season, tempting visitors to explore its picture-perfect Alpine villages in the warmer months too. A summer trip is definitely something I’d recommend.

We stayed in an amazing, luxury chalet, perched in the mountains, just above the popular ski base of La Clusaz. Less than an hour’s drive from Geneva airport, we woke every day to crisp fresh air, endless blue sky vistas and the soothing sound of cattle bells.

The popular town of Annecy – dubbed ‘the Venice of the Alps’ – is a short drive or bus journey away too and the weather was perfect. We visited in mid-June. It was glorious, a sunny 27 degrees most days but pleasant and cool in the evening and with no shortage of things to do.

This is a sporty place, where residents and visitors like to keep fit so if biking, hiking, water sports or trail running appeal, you’re in the right place. And today we were joining the Alpine sports crew.

As we hit our first downhill track, littered with giant rocks and with a sheer drop to our left, it’s fair to say we were all absolutely terrified. Our instructor had told us how to tackle these steep inclines – stand up on the pedals, keep your legs straight, use one finger on the sensitive brakes (any more and you’ll fly off) and don’t avoid the rocks, go over them.

There was a lot of wobbling, some swearing and I definitely said a prayer or two – but I followed his advice, and amazingly, it worked. After the first few terrifying descents, I started to find my rhythm and actually embrace the thrill of flying down a mountain on two wheels.

All around us were scenes of vast, panoramic beauty as we rushed past towering pines and delicate alpine blooms, watching farmers herd goats and nudge cattle across the peaks. After a few miles we hit our first cheese station wolfing down freshly cut bread and goat’s cheese, served by local producers.

There was more cheese and more twists and turns on the way down. We crossed gentle streams and lush fields before cycling through a blast of welcome rain on our final, gnarly descent back to the registration point.

I crossed the finish line in just over two hours. I was soaked to the skin, full of the best cheese I’ve ever tasted, covered in mud but somehow still in one piece and beyond elated. It was a high-octane Alpine experience I’ll never forget – and now that my legs have stopped shaking, one I might even repeat next year.

Book it

Find out more about the race weekend: www.france-voyage.com/events/belier-vtt-202.html

La Clusaz e-bike hire: https://www.alpesaventures.com/laclusaz/

OVO Network offers seven nights at Chalet Bleu Infini in La Clusaz, in the Annecy Mountains region www.ovonetwork.com/en

SIPPING a glass of red on a garden bench as the sun sets over the neighbouring chateaux, mum Nicola Glover relishes the silence bar the therapeutic sound of evening crickets.

It’s a world away from her former life in Cambridgeshire, where she felt constantly stressed in her job working “ridiculous” hours as a primary school teacher to cover off her £1,000-a-month mortgage and rising bills.

8

8

8

“In 2020, I split with my first husband and was re-evaluating my life and what I wanted to do,” Nicola, 50, tells The Sun. 

“I wasn’t happy in my teaching job I’d been at for 14 years – I was very stressed and worked ridiculous hours with deadlines and performance targets that seemed impossible at times. It was always busy.

“I felt like I was on a hamster wheel and was longing for a more slow-paced life.”

A few months after her marriage ended she began chatting to a man called Pete, now 58 and originally from Kent, in a Facebook community group for people considering a move to France.

With Pete, an HGV driver, having also tired of the daily grind in the UK, the pair bonded over their love of the country.

They began dating in August 2020, and decided to pursue their pipe dream to move across the Channel to start a new quieter, rural life together.

“I used to go to France every year as a child, and went to Strasbourg University,” Nicola explains. “I’ve always loved everything to do with France.

“Pete was working as an HGV driver with very early starts and long days. He was fed up with traffic jams and the conditions of the roads.

“So we explored different areas of France to see which area we’d like to move to, and figure out what we could do as a business.”

The couple eventually settled on the traditional French village of Affieux in the southern Corrèze region – a relatively undiscovered spot that’s less popular than the neighbouring, touristy region of Dordogne. 

Primarily populated with native French people, Nicola adds: “It has a rainforest vibe – it’s green with lots of lakes. Although we do get quite a lot of rain, it’s very hot in the summer.”

Prior to moving the couple outright bought a 19^th century stone cottage with an acre of land and five bedrooms for €175,000 (£149K) in April 2023.

They used their combined savings to purchase the house and used the sale of Nicola’s house in the UK to fund renovations to the property, turning it into a boutique bed and breakfast.

“It’s in the heart of the village of Affieux,” Nicola says. 

“It’s rural and very quiet, with amazing views. The architecture and buildings are medieval and stunning.”

All you can hear are cows in the field behind the house and crickets

Nicola Glover

It took nearly a year to sort out the paperwork – visas, business plans, and police checks – before the couple finally moved to France in February 2024, both quitting their jobs in the UK. 

Nicola says: “There is so much stuff that needs to be done before you can move over.

“You get a visa for 12 months initially, and once you’re here you have to re-apply every 12 months to the local prefecture unless you get a multi-year visa. 

“To get the multi-year visa, you have to meet certain criteria, which I managed to get.”

Compulsory French

However, with Pete’s French language level not as high as Nicola’s, his visa was only renewed for an extra year.  

“Pete spoke relatively little French when we moved here but has since passed his A1 level French after receiving compulsory free lessons from the government,” Nicola explains. 

“Everyone on a working visa is assessed on their French level when they move here and if your French isn’t good enough you will be assigned free lessons. 

“He is still continuing with French learning: online, books and apps.”

8

8

In her previous life Nicola says she was constantly on the go commuting, working, shopping, ferrying teenagers around, fitting in a social life, sorting admin and cleaning.

Since moving to France, Nicola has loved the “calm and quiet” of the old-school village she now calls home. 

“All you can hear are cows in the field behind the house and crickets,” she says. 

“There is hardly any traffic. It’s all country roads unless you’re going to one of the big cities.”

She reckons this slow pace of living is in part due to French culture. 

“I think the French put more importance on downtime,” she says. “It’s not all ‘work, work, work’. 

“As soon as we go back to the UK we feel stressed. Everyone seems like they are in a rush. 

“Here it’s very slowed down. Everyone shuts for lunch, and hardly anywhere is open on a Sunday. You have to plan your day around it, which has taken some getting used to.”

Community feel

Nicola and Pete have the full support of their grown-up children, who now often visit for holidays. 

The couple married in September 2024, and now feel they have much more time for themselves and each other, alongside running their bed and breakfast. 

“We play golf, go for walks, explore the area, and cook together,” Nicola says. 

“We both love renovating and I do a lot of upcycling furniture. We spend time together in our garden, our allotment, and then work on the house.”

The community feel of Affieux has been a much-loved benefit of the move, Nicola adds.

“There is always a village fete, festival, or evening event. Our neighbours have all been really welcoming. 

“We’ve been around to theirs for drinks in the evening, and lunch. They talk to us about our lives.

“They don’t speak in English – we have to integrate in French. They’ve all been so helpful with any information I’ve ever needed.”

8

8

Although most costs are similar to the UK, Nicola says the house prices in the Corrèze region are cheaper, as she was able to get much more for her money. 

Her bills are also cheaper, especially given her house in France is considerably bigger than the small home she had in the UK. 

Her water bill is £200 a year cheaper, council tax is £400 cheaper, gas and electricity is £1,500 a year and her weekly shop is two thirds of the cost it was back in Blighty.

Wine is also a lot cheaper, with a basic cheap bottle costing just over a euro, and a nice bottle setting them back just €4. 

For a “fancy” three-course lunch, Nicola would expect to pay no more than €25. 

Nicola says: “We only buy food that’s in season here, and we waste less food. We also grow a lot of our food now, which we didn’t do in the UK.

We only buy food that’s in season here, and we waste less food. We also grow a lot of our food now, which we didn’t do in the UK

Nicola Glover

“We have room for our own allotment on our land here and have a 30ft polytunnel in our garden. We’re currently growing all sorts which will save us even more money.

“People in France generally rely less on ready meals and convenience foods than in the UK, most meals are prepared from scratch.

“If fruit and veg is not in season it’s generally more expensive – I’ve seen cauliflowers out of season for sale at €5.99 in one supermarket!

“In the UK, we are so used to getting anything at any time. They don’t do that here.

“Seafood is much cheaper though – 12 large tiger prawns cost me €2.25 yesterday!”

Nicola and Pete brought their own car to France and had it registered there, something that proved quite costly.

“We wanted to keep a right hand drive vehicle and cars are more expensive here than in the UK,” Nicola says. 

“This was a long-winded process though and cost quite a bit as we had to change the headlights.”

Car insurance is much the same as in the UK, but they don’t pay an annual tax on cars in France, and MOTs are done every two years. 

Another thing that Nicola says is more expensive in France are clothes – but outside of the big cities she’s noticed there isn’t an emphasis on fashion, so she doesn’t feel pressure to keep up with the latest style. 

“It’s very casual – jeans, trainers, top and blazer,” she says.

“There aren’t many charity shops like there are in the UK. People hold onto their clothes forever.”

There aren’t many charity shops like there are in the UK. People hold onto their clothes forever

Nicola Glover

With the increased number of sunny days in France compared to the UK, Nicola spends lots of time outside with her dog or in her allotment. 

“It’s nice to be outdoors more,” she says. “The blue sky and sunny days help with your mental health.”

Although she misses her twin daughters, both at university in the UK, as well as Marmite and Dairy Milk chocolate, Nicola can’t see herself moving back to the UK and would recommend rural France to anyone seeking a slower pace of life. 

“I haven’t thought that far ahead, but we’re happy where we are right now,” she says.

Read more about how you can visit Nicola’s B&B here.

8

In true Hallmark fashion, “When Calls the Heart” co-stars Erin Krakow and Ben Rosenbaum found love on set. Now, the two are officially married.

The newlyweds, who have appeared in the period drama since the show premiered in 2014, confirmed their union Monday with a joint Instagram post of photos from their wedding, captioned with a simple infinity symbol.

Krakow, 40, and Rosenbaum, 38, first sparked romance rumors in 2023 when Krakow revealed on Instagram that they had adopted a dog, Willoughby, together. But it wasn’t until a year later that the two confirmed their relationship on Valentine’s Day.

The actors, who have kept their relationship relatively private, surprised fans with news of their nuptials.

“Y’all dropped a whole wedding like it was a Tuesday fit check,” one social media user commented. “Plot twist of the year!!”

But this isn’t the first marriage to come out of “When Calls the Heart.” Last September, co-stars Kevin McGarry and Kayla Wallace also wed.

“I’m still crying. My favorite pairing!” Wallace commented on Krakow and Rosenbaum’s post, adding wine and cheese emojis.

“Beautiful pictures, beautiful friends, beautiful husband and wife – xo,” McGarry wrote.

“When Calls the Heart” is Hallmark Channel’s longest-running original series and was recently renewed for a 13th season, scheduled to premiere in 2026. The release date has not yet been announced. Krakow stars as Elizabeth Thornton (and also serves as an executive producer) and Rosenbaum plays Mike Hickam on the popular western.

Gymnastics legend Mary Lou Retton pleaded no contest Tuesday to a DUI charge that stemmed from her arrest last month in her hometown of Fairmont, W.Va.

In a statement emailed to The Times, attorney Edmund J. Rollo said a Marion County judge fined his client $100. Rollo said that the amount is “consistent with sentencing guidelines for first-time, non-aggravated offenses in this jurisdiction.”

According to the Associated Press, Retton was pulled over on May 17 by police responding to a report about a Porsche being driven erratically. The 57-year-old former Olympic athlete is said to have smelled of alcohol, slurred her words and failed a field sobriety test. And officers said they observed a container of wine in the passenger seat.

Retton reportedly refused a roadside breath test and a blood test. She was arrested and charged with a misdemeanor count of driving under the influence of alcohol, controlled substances, or drugs. Court records show Retton was released after posting a personal recognizance bond of $1,500.

“What happened was completely unacceptable. I make no excuses,” Retton said in a statement released Tuesday by Rollo. “To my family, friends and my fans: I have let you down, and for that I am deeply sorry. I am determined to learn and grow from this experience, and I am committed to making positive changes in my life. I truly appreciate your concern, encouragement and continued support.”

Retton became a household name during the 1984 Summer Games in Los Angeles, when she became the first U.S. gymnast to win Olympic gold in the all-around competition and won five medals overall.

On Oct. 10, 2023, Retton’s daughter, McKenna Kelley, revealed that her mother had “a very rare form of pneumonia” and was “fighting for her life” in intensive care without being covered by medical insurance. An online fundraiser has raised nearly $500,000 to help cover medical costs for Retton, who was released from the hospital later that month.

In a January 2024 interview with NBC News, Retton said she was “not great yet” in terms of her recovery. “I don’t know how long I’ll indefinitely need the oxygen,” she said while gesturing toward her nasal tube.

When Laura Hill told people she was going on a vineyard tour in Washington State, they were surprised — that’s because Washingtonians are keeping their exquisite wines a secret.

When most people think of a wine road trip in the US, they think of California. So when I told people I was going on a vineyard tour in Washington State, they were surprised, with many telling me they “didn’t know they made wine that far north”.

Neither did I, so I packed waterproofs and jumpers for my flight to Seattle expecting typical Pacific Northwest Coast rainy weather. I was pleasantly surprised a few days later to find myself sitting on a sunny terrace overlooking acres of vineyards, with temperatures in the high 20s in mid-October.

Far from being “too far north”, much of Washington State’s wine country is on a latitude of 46 degrees north – similar to regions including Burgundy and Bordeaux, boasted my tour guide. And with an extra two hours of sunlight per day than California on average, the region has perfect conditions. So why is Washington wine not better known worldwide? The answer is partly because Washingtonians are keeping it to themselves.

“Around 75% of wine made here is consumed within the state itself,” Adam Acampora of Woodinville Wines explained. That and the fact many wineries are small, with most making 5,000 cases per year or less.

So for the time being, it seems the best way to sample the wines of this well-kept secret region is to travel there and take a road trip.

It would be criminal to head to Washington and skip over Seattle so my first stop was the famous Space Needle. The 1961 monument is still the city’s tallest building. On a clear day it’s possible to see the surrounding lakes and mountain ranges from the viewing platform. After a pit stop at the Pike Place Market – renowned for fish being thrown to customers – it was time to hit the road in search of Washington’s wine.

The first “wine town” I visited was Woodinville itself, just half an hour from downtown Seattle. It is far from the vineyards, but it’s home to 130 wineries in four “wine districts” with various tasting rooms, restaurants and bars.

The map of the area reminded me of a theme-park guide with a “Downtown” and a “Hollywood District” to explore.

Before I hit the tasting rooms, a huge roaring fire and a complimentary glass of red wine was awaiting me as I checked into Willows Lodge, a boutique hotel, which leans into the cosy woodland lodge style with reclaimed wood furniture and fireplaces.

Rooms overlook tree-lined grounds giving the illusion of a countryside escape, but just on the other side of the car park were warehouse-like buildings housing wineries.

Inside one of the nondescript industrial buildings was Sparkman Cellars, a family-run winery where I tried a variety of reds in the modern tasting room. I quickly realised red is the tipple of choice here in Washington and most of the tastings included three reds with just one rose, white or sparkling.

My usual wine order is a dry white, so I was apprehensive. But I’m pleased to report there were plenty of “white-wine drinker’s reds” – aka light and fruity wines on offer –alongside the punchy, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignons the area is best known for. Many of Woodinville’s wineries are within walking distance from each other, so across the road is the oldest winery in Washington, Chateau Ste. Michelle which dates back to 1912. If Woodinville is a wine theme park, this is Cinderella’s Castle with a huge chateau-style building surrounded by gardens.

After a day of tasting the end product, it was time to hit the road (with a designated driver) and head east to the vineyards.

In just a two-hour journey from Seattle, the landscape changed from moody, Twilight-style forests to almost desert-like on the other side of the Cascade mountains. The area had a slight Wild West vibe with fruit stands and quaint clapboard farm shops to stop off at along the route for a true all-American road-trip experience. Despite the Wild West appearances, the vineyards I visited on the first stop, Yakima, were 100% Pacific Northwest in laid-back style. I joined a Harvest tour visiting three – Dineen Vineyards, Two Mountain Winery and VanArnam Vineyards – to see how the wine was made and was soon stomping grapes with my feet and tasting wine straight from the barrel.

“There’s no right or wrong, it’s about people having a good time,” said Branden Seymour, the new owner of VanArmen Vineyards as he clambered to the top of a stack of barrels to allow us to sample last year’s vintage unblended.

A short hike through the scenic Cowiche Canyon freshened me up before a two-hour drive east to Walla Walla, a college town near the Oregon border. The cute Main Street was home to half a dozen wine-tasting rooms, boutique bakeries and upmarket restaurants including the Salted Mill where American classics like mac and cheese and burgers are paired with local wines. I stayed at the historic Marcus Whitman hotel, proclaimed to be ‘‘the grandest hotel for at least 150 miles”. Sticking with the theme park idea, I’ll admit the 1928 13-storey property reminded me slightly of Disney’s Tower of Terror.

But newly-renovated chic interiors put a stop to that. This elegant style continued at the nearby vineyards, which I explored on an e-bike with Kickstand Tours (from £132). I enjoyed the driest white wine of the whole trip in the Ibizan-inspired tasting room at Grosgrain Vineyards, before heading to neighbouring Valdemar Estates. The ultra-modern winery was opened in 2019 by a Spanish family who have had vineyards in Rioja for more than 130 years, giving the region a European stamp of approval. Overall I found this wine tasting road trip more relaxed than any previous tours.

Combining a tipple or two with a city stop and a road trip filled with all-American icons means even people who don’t love wine would have a great time exploring the US’s lesser-known vineyard region.

Book the holiday