The national park’s a hotspot for tourism, but this particular walk felt like, at points, I could have been hiking in a tropical destination, with its bright green rugged cliffs
You don’t need to leave the UK to experience unreal views(Image: Emily Malia)
The more I travel around the UK, the more I am in awe of its natural beauty which seems to be overlooked by a lot of keen travellers, and this particular spot feels like a real slice of paradise.
You don’t need to hop on a plane to experience a sense of the tropics; it turns out you can immerse yourself in the brightest hues of green and walk along waterfalls in the north of Wales. While, of course, Snowdonia National Park is no secret, especially to avid hikers, cyclists and explorers, it was my first time visiting, and this specific route is one that blew me away.
It’s often cited as one of the best hikes in Snowdonia (Eryri). Cadair Idris is an 893-metre mountain in the southern part of the park and is renowned for its wild and rugged scenery. To me, it looked like its surroundings could belong in the likes of Peru or Southeast Asia, with its tropical plants, waterfalls and vibrancy of its green grass.
But of course, like any beautiful place in Wales, it reminded me exactly where I was when I spotted sheep dotted around its cliffs, even on the steepest parts. It looked as though the sheep could fall off the edge of the world, taking me with them, as I fought for hours against the growing pain in my shins, with each step up and up to the peak.
The route
I was taken up the Minffordd Path route, which is described as the shortest yet steepest route to the mountain’s summit, tackling a demanding 10 km walk. Overall it’s set to take up to four to five hours to complete, and in turn you are rewarded with dramatic and captivating views of the national park’s landscape.
The route begins at Dôl Idris car park and takes you past the Cadair Idris visitor centre, which quickly fills up. We were recommended to get there early in the morning to beat the pile-up and were thankful that we did; setting off on our walk at around 8am meant we got to experience the quietness of the route in all of its natural wonder. Albeit, the lie-in would have also been appreciated.
Running parallel along the stream which runs parallel to the stream which leads to Llyn Cau, the lake at the heart of the base of the mountain. It was immediately, when taking on these steep steps along the river, that I felt like I could be abroad.
Not only was the sun shining down on us, but the water was trickling down, with tropical plants growing around us, and it felt as wild and wonderful as the experiences I had in Thailand or the pictures I’ve seen of hikes in Vietnam or Peru.
This continued as we made our way out of the forest area and into the open air, with nothing but pure greenery around us, and the mountain stood proudly ahead. The second phase levels lightly as you enter a rocky amphitheatre, with up-close and personal views of the lake.
Pushing past slate and rocks, many of which are loose and therefore can be difficult to navigate, this section and throughout the walk, requires concentration and care with each step. A quick trip or fall could have you stumbling, and that’s why lots of hikers opt to go armed with sticks to help gain their balance and push them through.
By the time I made it to the top of the mountain, the weather dramatically changed, from sunny to high winds which were extremely cold. It’s this that can catch a lot of amateur hikers out, and I think it’s always best to go armed with windproof and waterproof layers, as they say ‘don’t dress for the car park’.
The real treat after that consistently steep hike upwards is this – the flat walk along the edge of the entire mountain before reaching its penultimate peak. Seeing it all from a circular angle gave you a real treat at each point whenever I decided to stop and take a breath.
Wales is the gift that keeps on giving when it comes to my explorations, and Cadair Idris was no exception to that. If you’re willing to take on the circular route and the real challenge of its steep and unsteady ground, then you will be rewarded with a touch of paradise and views you’ll continue to daydream about.
A holidaymaker has shared her experience of visiting what she calls the real ‘paradise’ of Portugal many tourists ignore, where she discovered a hidden waterfall and gorgeous beaches
People were amazed to learn about the ‘hidden gem’ of Portugal (stock image)(Image: Getty Images)
Despite the UK being forecast for another warm and sunny summer, the allure of jetting off abroad to unwind on a sun-drenched beach in a foreign country can prove hard to resist.
Just a two-hour flight from the UK, Portugal has long been a firm favourite among British holidaymakers, particularly given its reliably sunny and warm climate for much of the year. While cities such as Porto and the capital Lisbon remain among the most popular spots for tourists, one traveller now claims to have uncovered the ‘paradise of Portugal’ that many visitors don’t even know exists.
Taking to TikTok, a user going by the name ‘Solo Traveling Joy’ shared her experience of visiting the destination, revealing she had discovered a ‘hidden waterfall’ complete with a natural swimming pool, nestled among breathtaking scenery.
“Portugal is so underrated. And most people stick to Lisbon or Porto, but completely miss out on the Algarve,” she wrote in the caption of her post.
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The Algarve is Portugal’s spectacular southernmost region, stretching for over 200 kilometres along the coast. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a beach lover, or simply seeking somewhere to kick back and recharge, the Algarve is unlikely to leave you disappointed.
Celebrated for its year-round sunshine, striking ochre cliffs and sweeping golden beaches, it stands as a premier European hotspot for beach breaks, world-class golf and freshly caught seafood, according to Visit Portugal.
If you’re considering a stay in the Algarve, there’s no shortage of choices. The most sought-after destinations, however, are Lagos in the west and Tavira in the east, both widely regarded as the region’s finest spots. Lagos boasts striking golden cliffs and a lively town atmosphere, whereas Tavira delivers historic, untouched Portuguese character.
The secluded waterfall she featured in the clip is Queda do Vigario, situated near the rural village of Alte, which lies just off the A2 motorway linking Lisbon and the Algarve.
“This was one of my favourite natural swimming pools… peaceful, hidden, and 100% worth the detour,” the woman wrote in the caption accompanying her post.
“Go in the morning when no one is there!” she advised.
Viewers were swiftly captivated by the woman’s footage, with many rushing to the comment section to share their reactions.
“This looks like a hidden gem,” one person wrote, while another user said: “Wow, thanks for the tip.”
Another person said: “Adding this to my Portugal list! Amazing shots.” Someone else shared: “Been here today was lush.”
I was alone in the forest in my favorite place for the first time in years, so I did the only logical next right thing. I lay down.
There I was, sprawled next to Millard Canyon Falls, listening as the water roaring down the cliff and cool air whooshed past my face. I gained a new perspective when I gazed at an upside-down waterfall. What’s the point of hiking if we don’t play around?
In today’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I provide you with three great hikes where rivers and waterfalls are still flowing. It’s essential information as we head into summer and temperatures start to rise.
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If you were to force me to choose my favorite hike, I would stubbornly refuse to pick just one, but my list would include these three.
That’s why I really want to urge you, my dear Wild reader, to treat these places with the reverence they deserve. That includes:
Refreshing your memory on the seven “Leave No Trace” principles.
Packing a small trash bag in which you can store empty food wrappers, toilet paper and garbage you spot along the way.
Observing wildlife from a distance, including California newts, which you shouldn’t pick up because it’s rude and, more important, because they can secrete a neurotoxin through their skin that can be lethal to humans.
OK, let’s talk about where your next favorite hike will be!
Millard Canyon Falls in Angeles National Forest.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
1. Millard Canyon Falls
Distance: 3.3 to 4.3 miles (see below) Elevation gained: About 900 to 1,100 feet Difficulty: Moderate Dogs allowed? Yes Accessible alternative: Paved segment of Gabrielino Trail from Windsor Boulevard
This 3.3- to 4.3-mile hike to Millard Canyon Falls will take you through lush hillsides and beneath the shade of coast live oaks and bigleaf maples as you walk alongside, and sometimes through, Millard Creek. Your journey ends at Millard Canyon Falls, a gorgeous 50(ish)-foot waterfall that gushes past massive boulders perched at the top of the cascade.
This hike is usually much shorter (about 1.5 miles), but a road closure in place since the Eaton fire lengthened it. I will explain more about the closure later. It is important to note, though, that Chaney Trail is the name of the roadway and an actual trail, both of which you’ll take on this hike.
To begin your hike, you can either parallel park nearNuccio’s Nurseries, taking care to obey all parking signage, or if those spots are all taken, park nearby and order a rideshare to drop you at the trailhead. I had cell reception with Verizon here, so it should be possible to order a ride back to your vehicle.
Millard Creek in Angeles National Forest.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
From here, you have two options for reaching the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead.
1. Follow Chaney Trail road for about 1.66 miles to the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead. This route will be exposed, so you’ll need to start early if you choose this option.
2. Walk about half a third of a mile north from Nuccio’s, and then, near a bend in the road, you’ll take the Chaney Trail, a winding dirt path that I was delighted to find is in great shape. (Shout out to Restoration Legacy Crew, a volunteer trail maintenance group, for its amazing work in the Millard Canyon area!)
That trail is a bit overgrown in a few spots, so you’ll want to wear pants (or take the road). Additionally, make sure to lightly stomp before heading into overgrown areas, as this helps alert any snakes snoozing in the shade of your presence.
The view from the ground looking up at Millard Canyon Falls.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
You’ll take Chaney Trail for about half a mile, pausing to catch your breath and take in the increasingly great views of the San Gabriel Valley. You will next cross over Mt. Lowe Motorway to take the Sunset Ridge Trail down. (See map for greater detail.)
You will boogie down a few switchbacks for 0.7 miles, enjoying shade provided by bay laurels and sumac trees, listening to the sweet songs of canyon wrens and spotted towhees. (That’s who was singing to me, anyway!)
You will reach the Millard Canyon campground, which is closed for overnight camping but does feature a few nice picnic tables shaded by massive coast live oaks. With the creek flowing nearby, I wouldn’t blame you if you stopped and had a little snack here.
Millard Campground in Angeles National Forest. It is closed because of damage from the Eaton fire.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
That said, you have finally made it to the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead! Just northwest of the campground, you’ll find a little arrow pointing you northward onto the trail. From here, you will gain minimal elevation, and can actually just frolic. It is about half a mile to the waterfall.
As I mentioned, this trail is usually shorter and easier to access, as there’s a large parking lot near the trailhead and more parking along the roadway.
The roadway Chaney Trail was slated to reopen at the end of April. I frequently checked Los Angeles County Public Works’ road closure website, as I had planned to write about Millard Canyon once the road reopened. But when I checked the website, I saw that the reopening had been moved to the end of August. Huh?
I asked the public information officers at county Public Works about it and was told: “We are currently coordinating with our on-call emergency contractor to complete guardrail repairs on Chaney Trail, just north of the gate. Construction is anticipated to begin in July and be completed by the end of August, weather and field conditions permitting.”
Clockwise from top left: prickly phlox, golden yarrow, cliff aster and a type of larkspur. Center: A little bird on a dried out plant.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
I passed a shiny new guardrail just north of the gate when I was hiking there earlier this week. I asked the agency whether there was some other guard rail missing. No, my friends. “The community raised concerns about the roadway narrowing included in this project, and we will be reconstructing the guardrail to address those concerns,” a spokesperson told me via email.
And now ends the saga of the Chaney Trail guardrail.
As for Millard Canyon, I will admit, it quite possibly is my favorite frontcountry natural areas. I was reminded of this fact when I visited this week. Although the road closure adds some steep mileage to reach the canyon, it’s worth it to me. I will be back. I hope to see you there!
The Fish Canyon Narrows near Castaic.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
2. Fish Canyon to Fish Canyon Narrows
Distance: About 5.5 miles Elevation gained: About 400 feet Difficulty: Moderate Dogs allowed? Yes Accessible alternative:San Francisquito Creek Trail
To reach the Fish Canyon Narrows, you will take the Fish Canyon Trail (called Forest Route 6N32 or the Warm Springs Fish Canyon Truck Trail on some maps) on a 5.5(ish)-mile out-and-back journey. You will ascend into narrowing walls of sandstone, granite and conglomerate. A healthy stream flows throughout the canyon, giving you ample opportunity to cool off or have a picnic in a naturally occurring sound bath (which, when you’re lucky, will include a tree frog).
A quick note: This is the most rugged (read: least curated) of the three adventures mentioned in this list. There is no trail signage, and you’re in a less popular corner of Angeles National Forest. You might be entirely alone, especially if you hike this on a weekday. You should plan accordingly. Or skip it if I’ve already freaked you out. (I do this out of love!)
To begin, you’ll park on the road’s shoulder, and head east through a gate. Follow the roadway north and then south as it curves toward a dirt path. Follow the exposed dirt path northeast. You’ll trudge through multiple water crossings and be blessed with the occasional shade of sycamore trees.
The narrows are often cooler than the rest of the area. The first portion of this hike has little to no shade, so make sure to wear plenty of sun protection.
And if you leave the trail but aren’t ready to go home, head over to the swim beach at Castaic Lake. And if you’re not tired, there’s always the Cali Splash Park, a massive inflatable floating park. That’s a full day of adventure!
A hiker lies near the creek along the Icehouse Canyon Trail.
(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
3. Icehouse Canyon Trail to Icehouse Saddle
Distance: Around 7 miles Elevation gained: 2,600 feet Difficulty: Challenging Dogs allowed? Yes Accessible alternative:West Fork National Scenic Bikeway
Icehouse Canyon Trail to Icehouse Saddle is a 7(ish)-mile trek that runs mostly parallel to the gorgeous and crystal clear Icehouse Creek, which often features several short waterfalls as the water rockets down the mountainside.
As they trek through the canyon shaded by bigleaf maple, California incense-cedar and bigcone Douglas-fir, hikers might spot wildflowers including orange-yellow western wallflowers, light purple Grinnell’s Beardtongue and red western columbine.
Icehouse Canyon is popular on weekends and is best visited on a weekday if you can swing it. You’ll need either a $5 Adventure Pass, an annual America the Beautiful pass or other federal public lands pass to park.
To begin your hike, you’ll park at or near the trailhead — in the parking lot if it’s your lucky day. Otherwise, you’ll park along the roadside, taking good care to read signage and not block anyone’s driveway. Once while walking to the trailhead, I was greeted by a local dog whose collar informed me that he was allowed to meander about and knew how to get back home. I love small mountain towns.
After you park — and remember to display your pass, as forest service workers do ticket vehicles without them — you’ll head east to the trailhead.
A visitor cools down in the creek at Icehouse Canyon.
(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)
Immediately upon entering the canyon, you’ll be greeted with stunning beauty. Try not to become too distracted by the pools of water surrounded by large boulders. (No one will know if you skip the hike and just take a dip.)
About a mile into your hike, you’ll come to a crossroad where the Chapman Trail and Icehouse Canyon Trail intersect. Continue east on the Icehouse Canyon Trail. A mile farther, you’ll start the switchback portion of the trail, where you’ll gain about 1,200 feet in 1.5 miles. It’s a beautiful suffer fest.
Icehouse Saddle will offer you incredible views of the San Gabriel Mountains and Mojave Desert. You’ll likely meet other hikers here who are planning to continue their journeys to one of several peaks reachable from the saddle, including to popular spots like Cucamonga and Ontario peaks.
Hikers meander past boulders and large pine trees.
(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)
It can be quite windy at Icehouse Saddle, so if you’re planning to have your lunch here (which I’ve done many times), consider packing a windbreaker.
The Times has been writing about hiking in Icehouse Canyon for more than 100 years, as city dwellers have long been drawn to its beauty. A July 1926 article about Icehouse Canyon started with a headline declaring, “Here’s a nice cool trip” in all caps.
“It is a trip which one will want to take more than once when its lure has gotten into the blood,” an unnamed Times journalist wrote.
May we all be so lucky to return again and again.
3 things to do
Docent Susan Hopkins leads a Pride Month hike during a previous year’s celebrations.
(L.A. County Department of Parks and Recreation)
1. Celebrate Pride across L.A. County The L.A. County Department of Parks and Recreation will host several events celebrating LGBTQ+ Pride throughout June. Almost 60 county parks are hosting events, including from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday at Dalton Park in Azusa; from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday at Dr. Richard H. Rioux Park in Stevenson Ranch; and from noon to 2 p.m. Saturday at Crescenta Valley Community Regional Park in La Crescenta. For a list of all events, visit parks.lacounty.gov.
2. Walk for peace in L.A. Los Angeles meditation nonprofit InsightLA will lead a free 12-mile Walk for Peace from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday. The walk will start at Hollywood Forever Cemetery and end with community picnic at Tongva Park in Santa Monica. Register at insightla.org.
3. Repair trails in remote forest near L.A. The Lowelifes Respectable Citizens’ Club, a volunteer trail maintenance group, needs volunteers on Saturday and Sunday to help restore an overgrown segment of the Gabrielino Trail in Angeles National Forest. Volunteers will either ride gravel bikes down a 5.5-mile dirt road or hike in. Previous trail work experience not required. Register by emailing trailwork@lowelifesrcc.org.
The must-read
The aedes aegypti mosquito, called the “yellow fever mosquito,” is well-known for spreading nasty illnesses like its namesake and dengue fever.
(Sameer Neamah Mahdi / Associated Press)
Here’s a sentence I didn’t expect to write this year (or ever): Google would like to release up to 64 million sterilized male mosquitoes in California and Florida to help combat mosquito-borne illnesses such dengue, Zika, chikungunya and yellow fever. “Google says it can harness technology to optimize a concept that’s been around for decades, but hasn’t worked at a large enough scale with mosquitoes to rein in disease,” Times staff writer Lila Seidman reported. The project is called Debug —although Google could have gone with WiFly.
I’ll see myself out.
Happy adventuring,
P.S.
You’re sitting there thinking about your weekend, wondering, “Is there anywhere I could go dressed as a shark?” Why, yes, there is! The Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cosplay for Science will co-host the Science Entertainment Aquarium Convention from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday at the aquarium (3720 Stephen M. White Drive in San Pedro). SeaCon 2026 will feature a beach cleanup, a fictional marine biology panel and a cosplay contest, along with much more. Learn more at the aquarium’s Instagram page. Have a jaw-some time!
For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.
Writer Octavia Lillywhite discovered the latest ‘moorcore’ trend with a wild and windswept escape in Bronte country, West Yorkshire
Octavia Lillywhite Acting beauty and wellness editor
06:00, 02 May 2026
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Top Withens, the ruined farmhouse on Haworth moor is said to be the inspiration for Emily Brontes’ ‘Wuthering Heights’(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
“Wuthering” is a Northern English term for a strong, roaring wind or a storm-lashed place, which is highly appropriate for Emily Brönte’s only novel – Cathy and Healthcliff’s tempestuous story of passion and revenge. It’s a harder sell for a holiday.
That hasn’t stopped ‘Moorcore’ from becoming the latest trend in UK breaks. And what is Moorcore? It’s a move-on from the cutesy cottagecore vibe (all roses round the windows, thatched roofs and cats curled by the fire). It’s wild and free. The feeling of standing atop a gritstone edge, a heathery moorland vista stretching to the horizon, tumbling waterfalls, fairy glens, fresh air in your lungs.
There’s no better place to channel moorcore than on Haworth Moor – whose wild, heather-strews footpaths were well-traipsed by the Brontës. Two miles from their parsonage, Royds Hall Cottage is marked on maps from 1847, the very year Wuthering Heights published, and it’s likely it was a familiar sight for the sisters on their rambles. As we arrive, the breeze tusseling daffodils along the embankment and a buzzard hovering above, it feels magical.
Stay in the heart of the Yorkshire moors… near the pub
The kitchen is panelled on two sides with windows – a 180º view. There’s Ponden Reservoir shimmering, purple hills rising beyond and, in front, the owner’s horses tearing up the grass. The view changes moment to moment, as clouds scud across the sky, rolling shadows over the dale. You can watch the weather curl in from the east, like two days visible from the same window. I could marvel at it all day.
Just the right mix of old and new, the cottage sleeps four in two cosy rooms upstairs. Downstairs, the living room has the same vast view as the kitchen, exposed oak beams, a woodburner and sofas for cosying up in. And there’s a copy of Wuthering Heights if you forgot yours.
I’d had some concerns that wilderness could feel remote, but from the cottage’s kitchen window I could see the comforting sign of the nearest pub, and two more are a 10-minute walk away, in the village.
Walking in the footsteps of Wuthering Heights
On an energetic five-and-a-half mile loop from the cottage front door, we took in the waterfall at Lumb Beck (detailed in Charlotte’s letters to her friend, Ellen) and the desolate farmhouse at Top Withens – said to be the setting for Cathy and Healthcliff’s home. From there, across the moorland paths we discovered the Fairy Kirk at Ponden Clough (‘Penistone Crags’ in the novel), and beautiful Ponden Hall, which Emily Brontë used as Edgar Linton’s Thrushcross Grange and where her sister Anne set The Tenant of Wildfell Hall.
Around Top Withens and the waterfall, there were scores of walkers admiring the famous views but, only a crow-call beyond, we saw barely a soul – just swooping curlews with their strange warbling cries and a roe deer bouncing off into the distance. It’s easy to find both wild inspiration and, afterwards, scones and clotted cream at Ponden Mill.
In the other direction, Haworth village was less than an hour’s stroll. It’s the focal point of Brontë pilgrimage, so it was busy – yet still so beguiling, with a sense of the sisters at every turn. Visiting on foot meant we could skip the car park and enter the village – just as they would have – from the footpath at the end of Church Street.
Their house (now an unmissable museum) is the first you come to on the cobbled street. From the parlour table, the one Emily and her sisters worked at, you can still look out at the graveyard with its overcrowded, flat-lying gravestones.
The best places to eat and shop near Stanbury and Haworth
In Stanbury village, a 10-minute walk from the house, we found the Wuthering Heights Inn serves excellent pub food classics, is family and dog friendly and didn’t bat an eyelid at our muddy boots.
If you prefer to eat in, don’t miss Robertshaw’s Farm Shop at Thornton, 20 minutes by car. It’s packed to the rafters with local meats, dairy, vegetables and baked goods plus wine and Yorkshire ales. We loved it so much we stopped there again on the way home to pack the car with extras.
How to book this Yorkshire Moors cottage stay
Royds Hall Cottage sleeps four (a double room and a twin) and is available to book through booking.com or cottages.com, from £370 for 3 nights.
More ‘moorcore’ destinations to try in the UK, with great literary links
The wild places of Britain have been inspiring literary classics for generations, and Haworth is not the only place to find it.
Lorna Doone
Where to find it: Riverside Cottage overlooks dappling Badgeworthy Water, the river where John and Lorna meet, just at the ford in Malmesmead. In a seven-ish mile walk you can head up into their moorland valley among the rolling hills, or a 3-mile loop takes in the 13th-century church at Oare. Either way, you end back at your cottage, next door to The Buttery café. Further afield, don’t miss Tarr Steps (about 35 minutes by car) where a 1000-year old clapper bridge spans the river, and in summer families picnic on the grassy meadow before heading to Liscombe Dairy for the best ice creams.
Where to find it: Wood Cottage nestles in the rugged North York Moors, circled almost entirely by wild uplands with footpaths in any direction. One of the area’s most inspiring views, The Wainstones, is a 3-mile hike, and on the way back you can drop by The Buck Inn. The cottage is 200 years old but recently – and so prettily refurbished – with the living room upstairs for the best light and views. It’s set on a working sheep farm, so expect fluffy Herdwick lambs to visit at the back gate for your very own Dicken moment from the patio. Twenty minutes drive away, Hemsley Walled Garden could rival the garden Mary Lennox found, while right next door, Dunscombe Park served as Misselthwaite Manor in the 2020 Secret Garden film.
How much? Wood Cottage sleeps four from £697 for 7 nights, see sykescottages.co.uk
