walks

WHEN twenty-something me holidayed in Ayia Napa, ­gorgeous scenery and chic cuisine were the furthest things from my mind.

I was firmly focused on foam parties and feral antics.

Now, 15 years on, I’m back to savour a different side to the party town and see what the rest of Cyprus has to offer.

And while there were still plenty of excited Gen Z holidaymakers on my Tui flight from Gatwick, this trip was to be a much more grown-up affair.

Luxury, relaxation and an itinerary younger me simply wouldn’t recognise.

Ayia Napa’s famous party strip and old fishing port looked very similar as we travelled from the airport, but arriving at the 5* Mare Ayia Napa could not have been more different from my youthful experiences.

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A ten-minute drive out of town, Mare sits on the edge of the Cape Greco national park, with its turquoise waters, nature walking trails and limestone sea caves.

The resort resembles a sun-drenched Cypriot village with low-rise, whitewashed bungalows featuring terracotta roofs set among winding stone paths.

Young me made do with a hostel. This time, I walked into a modern luxe dream.

Think muted tones, Molton Brown toiletries and Nespresso on tap.

Some rooms have access to pretty gardens, while others have swim-up pools or even a private place to take a dip.

After a long day travelling, I hit the hotel’s adult-only Sky Lounge rooftop bar to watch sunset.

It delivered stunning beachfront views as well as a potent Paloma cocktail of tequila and grapefruit soda. A girl still needs her treats.

On that subject, the all-inclusive hotel has eight restaurants to enjoy, ranging from poolside sushi and charcoal grilled kebabs to Mediterranean meze and dry-aged steaks.

There is also a splash park with slides for the kids, and adults can escape to their own pool with plush cabanas.

By day, there’s a sandy and quiet Blue Flag beach in a calm bay that’s perfect for paddling kids and paddleboarding.

With Tui’s extensive range of tours, there’s the option to explore parts of Cyprus younger me would never have considered.

A Coastal Landmarks trip takes us through the stunning Cape Greco park where we admire clifftop views over the caves and the tiny white-washed Agioi Anargyroi church perched over the water.

Legend has it that if you kiss while making a wish at the Lovers’ Bridge — a natural limestone arch spanning the sea — your dreams will come true.

While I didn’t have anyone to pucker up with, the view alone was worth it.

After a leisurely stop at Cyprus’s most famous stretch of sand, Nissi Beach, for a drink and quick dip, we move on to the Ayia Napa Sculpture Park.

I adored the hundreds of statues, mythical beasts and art installations right next to the Cacti Park, also perfect for a stroll.

We end the day with coffees and cocktails at a beachside taverna in Protaras.

Called Fig Tree Bay, it is named after the single tree that has stood near the beach since the 17th century.

Next day we up the ante on the adventure front with some unique experiences that would normally be the reserve of qualified scuba divers.

Underwater Sea Adventures on Ayia Triada beach take you out to a purpose-built pontoon positioned over a reef.

There are two unusual ways to observe it. On the seabed walk, you wear a huge “space age” helmet that is supplied with fresh air pumped down from the surface via a hose.

Once on, your head and hair stay dry — you can even keep glasses on — while you follow a guided trail along the seabed, little fishes dart in and out.

Or take the pace up a bit with an underwater scooter or Breathing Observation Bubble (BOB).

You sit upright with your head inside a clear dome helmet fed with air as the scooter glides along the seabed doing the hard work for you.

The crystal-clear waters mean you feel like you’re in a Little Mermaid remake, walking, dancing and feeding the fish. It was an incredible experience.

My rediscovery of this one-time party island of my youth wasn’t over yet.

First there was a trip into the hills to see a different side of the island above the town of Paphos.

Aphrodite Hills Resort is perched high on a coastal plateau overlooking the legendary birthplace of the ancient Greek goddess.

The huge estate feels more like a self-contained village, complete with its own central square, chapel and a dozen restaurants.

This is low-key luxury and we were soon in golf buggies zipping through the sprawling grounds, ticking off the Elemis spa, 18-hole PGA championship golf course and Real Madrid-backed kids’ football academy.

But with Aphrodite’s birthplace just below us, we make a pilgrimage to admire Petra tou Romiou at sunset before making our way up to the village of Kouklia for an evening of fabulous food, live music and dancing.

Emboldened by one too many glasses of glorious Cypriot wine, I am first on my feet to join in.

You can take the girl out of Ayia Napa, but you seemingly can’t take Ayia Napa out of the girl.

FORGET queuing for a selfie at some overhyped beauty spot.

Two-thirds of us (66 per cent) now reckon chasing viral destinations means missing out on the good stuff.

According to research by cottages.com, more than half (51 per cent) would rather sniff out a hidden gem than tick off a famous hotspot, with the over-55s leading the charge on 69 per cent.

So what does the nation actually want from a break?

A muddy footpath, a big view and a pint waiting at the end of it? Nearly two-thirds of us (61 per cent) say no UK getaway feels complete without visiting a cosy pub.

We know what we want when we get there, too.

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Traditional pub grub is top of the wish list (67 per cent), ahead of snug interiors (60 per cent) and a beer garden with an incredible view (60 per cent).

Broadcaster Clare Balding has teamed up with cottages.com and walking charity The Ramblers to launch the Pub Walk Collection, which pairs hand-picked routes with nearby cottages and cracking local pubs.

Clare said: “A proper pub walk is a much-loved British tradition.

“For me, the perfect route is four to six miles with dramatic scenery, ending at a great local pub. Some of the most memorable parts of a break can come from taking a different turn, chatting to locals and discovering places that aren’t on every itinerary.”

Jacob Lewis lists ten destinations that require your walking boots and are worth working up an appetite – and thirst – for.

WALK: Start at Conwy Station (LL32 8LD) for a 6.1-mile loop through the lower Conwy Valley, with the castle and river laid out below you.

Three hours, two short sharp climbs, and views worth every step.

PUB: The Albion is built into Conwy’s medieval walls and is arguably one of the finest 1920s pubs left in Britain.

Its Art Nouveau interior alone is worth the walk.

STAY: Ty Llewelyn is a two-bed cottage inside those same town walls, metres from the start of the walk and a few steps from the castle.

Wood-burner on, boots off. Sleeps four. See booking.com.

WALK: From Keswick’s Moot Hall (CA12 5JR), good paths climb steadily above Walla Crag for spectacular views over Derwentwater before looping home.

PUB: The Pocket is a buzzy independent cafe-bar on Lake Road, beloved of hikers straight off the fells.

Offers homemade sourdough pizzas and local craft beer.

STAY: Bonnie Cottage sits near the heart of Ambleside, sleeping four, with a courtyard garden and a woodburner for the evening.

For details see sykescottages.co.uk.

WALK: The 3.7-mile Boscastle Discovery route starts at the harbour (PL35 0HD) and packs a lot in: dramatic sea cliffs, farmland, quiet lanes to Minster Church, then the gorgeous Valency Valley home.

PUB: The Napoleon Inn sits at the top of the old fishing village, a 16th-century charmer with low beams, stone fireplaces and a tiered beer garden with sneaky sea glimpses.

STAY: Greenacres is a proper family blowout, sleeping 15 across six bedrooms with a hot tub and views over the valleys to the sea.

See hoseasons.co.uk.

PEAK DISTRICT

WALK: From Bamford Station (S33 0BN), follow an old railway line to the mighty Ladybower Dam, then climb through woodland to craggy Bamford Edge.

This walk’s around six miles long and has Dark Peak views that show off.

PUB: The Anglers Rest is community-owned, hiker-friendly and right in the Hope Valley.

It serves hearty home-cooked plates and Derbyshire craft ales.

STAY: Fern Cottage has beamed rooms and valley views stretching to Bamford Edge. Sleeps six, and dogs stay free.

For further details see cottages.com.

WALK: Start in Settle’s Market Place (BD24 9EJ) for a short, punchy climb to the trig point. Brief, sharp, and the views are spectacular for the effort.

PUB: The Talbot Arms is family-run with the biggest beer garden in town.

Local real ale and comforting food are welcome after a day on the limestone fells.

STAY: Broughton Sanctuary’s Micklethorn is a grand ten-sleeper near Skipton where you are free to roam 3,000 acres of parkland.

Visit broughtonsanctuary.co.uk.

SOUTH WALES

WALK: From Limeslade Bay (SA3 4JW), enjoy an easy 4.8-miler along the Gower Coast Path to Langland Bay, then back through Mumbles past Oystermouth Castle and the Victorian pier.

PUB: The Vic is an independent boozer in the heart of Mumbles with real ales, craft beers and live acoustic sessions.

Proper free-house spirit.

STAY: Bungalow Highfields is a roomy base sleeping six, with sea views, an enclosed garden and salty air from the doorstep. See cottages.com.

WALK: A gentle 5.1 miles from Corbridge village car park (NE45 5AX) through the Tyne valley, with lovely views and a wander round the town to finish.

PUB: The Pele is a micro bar inside a 14th-century, Grade I-listed, fortified tower in Corbridge.

It only serves bar snacks, but a beer by the medieval-style fireplace in this three-storey tower is certainly hard to beat.

STAY: The Studio at Westfield is a Scandi-style bolthole for two near Bellingham, on the edge of Northumberland National Park.

For details, see cottages.com.

WALK: A 7.3-mile circuit from Mill Wynd, Kelso (TD5 7HP), taking in the ruined abbey and the countryside along the River Teviot.

Three easy hours in a corner of the country most visitors skip.

PUB: The Cobbles is a 19th-century coaching inn just off the town square, now a multi-award-winning gastropub.

Outstanding local beef and game, with craft beer to match.

STAY: Liddel Holiday Properties offers a cosy four-sleeper near Kielder with rolling countryside all around and the river close by. See cottages.com.

WALK: One for the keen hiker.

This 10.6-mile route climbs out of Pitlochry (PH16 5BL) towards Ben Vrackie, crosses to Killiecrankie and returns along the River Garry.

Six hours, and worth every one.

PUB: The Auld Smiddy Inn fills a former blacksmith’s forge and does modern Scottish cooking properly, with venison, Highland seafood and regional ales by the fire.

STAY: Heathergems Apartment is bang in the middle of Pitlochry, metres from the walk start and steps from Blair Athol Distillery.

Sleeps four. See cottages.com.

WALK: A pleasant country amble from Aldborough (NR11 7NW) taking in three churches and a whopping village common.

Big skies, gentle going.

PUB: Cricketers on The Green looks out over the pitch where summer cricket is played.

Its AA-rosette kitchen turns out monthly-changing dishes built on the freshest Norfolk ingredients.

STAY: Dibley Cottage is a beautifully done Victorian bolthole for four near North Walsham, in a pocket of North Norfolk most visitors drive straight past.

For details see cottages.com.

One of the Celebrity Gogglebox stars had to take a minute after watching a terrifying scene

A Celebrity Gogglebox star walked off camera after viewing a creepy horror film that left everyone squealing.

The instalment of the Channel 4 show that aired on Friday (July 3) saw the celebrity armchair critics watching a range of programmes, from Countdown to Clarkson’s Farm. But many looked horrified as they tuned into horror film, Weapons.

The film is about 17 children from the same classroom who mysteriously disappear on the same night at the same time, and Jordan Banjo had to leave the sofa for a breather after watching scenes from the movie with fellow Diversity star Perri Kiely.

Many of the stars on the celebrity edition of the programme were seen looked terrified as they watched a scene where a creepy character called Aunt Gladys (played by Amy Madigan) visited a house and asked for a bowl instead of a glass of water.

Things took a nasty turn when she took a wooden stick she had been fiddling with and dragged it across her hand, cutting it open, which left Jordan gasping.

He held a cushion up to block the screen as a man in the film was then seen opening his mouth and vomiting streams of back liquid.

“I need a break, I need a break,” Jordan said, as Perri exclaimed: “No!”

But the dancer then stood up and moved away from the chair, explaining: “I need a drink. Do you want anything?”

However, he soon rushed back, explaining to Perri that he when he had got to the kitchen he had spotted a bowel of water on the side and it had given him a fright. “No!” he said, sitting back down without having poured the drinks.

Fans were tickled by the scenes, with one posting on X: “So funny.”

Someone else posted on the platform, which was formerly Twitter: “Who doesn’t just love a bit of Celebrity Gogglebox. Always such an entertaining way to spend the time.” “The perfect switch your brain off TV this time of night needs,” they added.

Someone else said that it was “brilliant stuff”.

Another viewer said the series was “top notch”.

Celebrity Gogglebox airs on Channel 4.

Walk with the gods above Amalfi, Italy

If you have a head for heights, then you can “walk with the gods” on the Sentiero degli Dei. It’s cut into the vertiginous hillside high above the Amalfi coast, offering heavenly views all the way to Capri and beyond. Ten breathtaking kilometres later, you’ll rejoin the earthly hordes of Instagrammers in the undeniably beautiful but crowded Positano. A super-convenient combined bus and ferry ticket from Travelmar takes you from any of the coastal towns to the start of the walk, in the lovely hamlet of Bomerano, in Agerola, and from Positano back to your base.
Brian

A stunning hike to Poland’s Eye of the Sea

The Five Lakes hike in the Tatras is the most beautiful in Poland. Starting from the parking lot at Palenica Białczańska, you gain elevation as you head south along a tumbling stream. After two hours, you arrive at the first of five glittering lakes surrounded by an amphitheatre that forms the border with Slovakia. Stop at Dolinie Pięciu Stawów hut to enjoy a hearty żurek (sour rye soup) as you contemplate the lake-pocked landscape. Fortified, climb southeast until, cresting the ridge, Morskie Oko (“Eye of the Sea”), the most storied lake in Poland, comes into view, glittering far below and engulfed by sheer mountain walls, including Poland’s highest peak. At the lakeside hut, you’ll have earned a Żywiec lager. Now, whether to follow the gentle trail back to the car park or push on to Rysy, 1,100m above …
Ryan

Cold dips and butterflies in Georgia

The Svaneti region of Georgia is a hiker’s dream. The Ushguli to Mestia route on the Transcaucasian Trail passes through some of the most dramatic and beautiful mountain landscapes I’ve ever encountered. Ancient stone towers, glacial pools perfect for a cold dip, meadows thick with wildflowers and butterflies, and the occasional wild horse made it feel like a film set. The villages are genuinely welcoming, the food is hearty and the biodiversity stopped me in my tracks. No photograph comes close to capturing it. If you haven’t considered Georgia for hiking, move it to the top of your list immediately.
Aoife

Saunas and reindeer in Swedish Lapland

Over seven days last summer we walked a section of the Kungsleden Trail from Abisko to Nikkaluokta in Swedish Lapland, in the Arctic Circle – and it was a magical experience. It was surprising even to us that we managed to find a holiday that suited a group of four teenagers and two adults. By the end, we all agreed that the lack of internet was a bonus not a bug. The walking was testing enough to be a challenge but also left enough time for card games and enjoying the saunas along the way. The huts we stayed in were great and allowed our packs to be kept light. A highlight was spotting reindeer on the last day.
Paul

Wildflowers and strudel in Austria

The beautiful Wildschönau valley in Austria offers amazing hiking options accessible for the whole family. We hiked between 10 and 15 miles every day exploring this amazing landscape. The meadows of wildflowers were breathtaking. The cable cars in Niederau and Auffac allow you to explore higher routes offering 360-degree panoramas with a little less effort. The signposting of routes was incredible and the free buses allowed us to travel throughout the area easily. The climb to the top of Joelspitze was our highlight, spotting beautiful gentian flowers on the way there, and finishing with an apple strudel as reward at the end.
Barbara

A canyon walk in northern Spain

The Ruta del Cares in Spain’s Picos de Europa is the most incredible hike my daughter and I have ever undertaken. The first 45 minutes from Poncebos take you steeply uphill into the canyon, past abandoned shacks and along spectacular, well-trodden tracks, which plateau out. As a vertigo sufferer myself, I found the track is always just wide enough. The canyon narrows and the path takes you through a series of tunnels before reaching the idyllic hamlet, Caín, and waterfalls where you can dip your feet. You can grab a drink and snacks before returning back to Poncebos.
Joe

Bathing and beauty in Germany’s Black Forest

Hike through the beautiful Black Forest from Kniebis to Baiersbronn (about 7 miles). Take the bus from Freudenstadt to Kniebis, then follow trails via the stunning Ellbachseeblick viewpoint and Sankenbach waterfall before descending into Baiersbronn. After the hike, enjoy an outdoor swim at Baiersbronn’s lido or relax with a meal in town, before taking the train back to Freudenstadt. Public transport is included with the Konus card if staying in Freudenstadt (or other participating Black Forest locations).
George

Family-friendly highs in Switzerland

Last year, my family and I took the cable car up Männlichen, in Switzerland and walked the Panoramaweg at its top. At 3 miles to Kleine Scheidegg, where you can take a train down, this is manageable for little legs and gives glorious views of the Eiger and the Bernese Oberland. Wild and unspoiled it is not, but it boasts the most incredible alpine playground, and if you stop in Wengen on your way up, there is a trail of marble runs that enchanted my children for hours.
Frances

Watching dolphins in the Algarve, Portugal

My most memorable European hike was the coastal path from Ponta da Piedade to Praia da Luz in Portugal’s Algarve. While most visitors crowd the famous beaches, the 7-mile trail threads between honey-coloured cliffs, hidden coves and wildflowers, with Atlantic views almost every step of the way. My tip is to start at sunrise and pack a lightweight breakfast. The early light turns the limestone cliffs gold, the temperature is perfect for walking, and you’ll often have long stretches of path entirely to yourself. We stopped on a clifftop ledge to watch dolphins offshore – a simple moment that made the whole day unforgettable.
Steven

Winning tip: cliffside views of Lake Garda, Italy

The highlight of our recent holiday was the stunning 6-mile walk along the Ponale Path, stretching from Riva at the top of Lake Garda to the Ledro valley. This beautiful cliffside trail takes you through old tunnels carved into the rock and treats you to the most spectacular views of the lake below. Along the route, we encountered lush green fields, picturesque little farmhouses nestled among vineyards and even a cascading waterfall. To top it all off, we enjoyed a refreshing pint and lasagne in the sunny beer garden at Bar sul Ponale before beginning the walk back.
Bev