walking

In the UK, there is a proud tradition of naming long-distance walking paths after talented reprobates. I mean the various opium fiends, international terrorists and child murderers who make up our colourful national tapestry (see the Coleridge Way, Drake’s Trail and the Richard III Trail). So perhaps a 30-mile weekend walk dedicated to the Mortimers, and their most notorious scion, Sir Roger, is an appropriate addition to the weave.

After all, this is the man who allegedly slept with a reigning queen (Isabella), probably killed her husband (Edward II), and certainly became de facto tyrant of the realm for three turbulent years in the 1320s, feathering his own nest relentlessly during that time. They don’t make world leaders like that any longer, do they?

Roger’s stomping ground, however, was not where you might expect: he was a marcher lord on the Welsh border, and his family trail wends its way through tranquil countryside from Ludlow in Shropshire to the quiet Herefordshire border town of Kington, the perfect distance for a weekend hike. But can such a location, so peaceful and orderly today, live up to the outrageous standards of Sir Roger? The Mortimer Trail itself has existed for some years, but now a new guidebook and app have brought this magnificently horrid hero back into the limelight.

I start then in Ludlow, a town now famous for its foodie traditions, but also a place that oozes history throughout its crooked lanes. Walking down Broad Street, I admire the bay window of The Angel, from which Horatio Nelson waved to the crowd in 1802, with his left hand, of course. Local legend has it that the hero of the Battle of the Nile leaned out the window and shouted, “Thank you for the oak,” to the adoring crowd below. Behind him stood Emma Hamilton, his mistress, and her husband, Sir William, the trailing third in a menage that would thrill the British public until Nelson died at Trafalgar in 1805. (The Angel restaurant is currently closed but will reopen soon.)

I get my lunch under the walls of the castle at CSONS, one of Ludlow’s celebrated cafes. There is a lot of good food in this town, plus an excellent farmer’s market and at least three “parlour pubs” – front room pubs marked only by a lamp outside and often serving only one type of beer from a cask.

The castle in Ludlow is really the start of the trail, being the seat of English borderland power in medieval times and worth a detour. Look out for the solar wing, built for Queen Isabella who stayed here in 1328. Sir Roger’s wife, Joan, was also in attendance, apparently, but slept in a different wing. History has not recorded where Sir Roger spent the night; no doubt Netflix will, when they get hold of the story.

The trail sets off across Dinham Bridge, climbing up into Mortimer Forest with great views back to the castle. Watch out for the deer and goshawks that are resident in this ancient woodland. My first night is in Salwey Lodge whose farming owners, Arabella and Hugo, not only organise walks along the trail, but have devised their own handy guiding app. They also shuttle visitors around, so no car is needed (Ludlow is on the main railway line between Shrewsbury and Hereford).

The lodge proves to be the perfect place to get into the ambience of a regicide like Sir Roger. An ancestor of the Salweys was sent to the Tower for anti-monarchial tendencies and was implicated in the Farnley Wood Plot of 1663. Richard’s Castle, close to the lodge, is where he is thought to have lived, but little remains, although there is a lovely decommissioned 12th-century church worth visiting. The lodge is atmospheric, lined with the type of ancient ancestral oil portraits that most families, including my own, inadvertently forgot to commission. The superlative food comes from the house’s vegetable garden, the farm and local suppliers.

Day two of the walk takes me up through more woodland to fabulous views of the Shropshire countryside, notably from an iron age hill fort at Croft Ambrey, abandoned after six centuries of occupation at around the time of Emperor Claudius’s invasion in AD 43.

I pass only a handful of people on the path during the entire weekend, but see plenty of reminders that this area was once a highly militarised and dangerous borderland. All through the middle ages, the Welsh kept up a sturdy resistance to the Norman conquerors, who responded with unwavering brutality. Sir Roger, of course, was right there in thick of it until the newly crowned Edward III had the insufferable upstart hanged at Tyburn. (The ruins of Roger’s main residence, Wigmore Castle, can be seen from Croft Ambrey, but rather inexplicably the trail does not go there. The closest diversion would add five miles.)

The path rolls along pleasantly, unveiling magnificent panoramas of the Welsh mountains, before dropping down to the River Lugg and an overnight stop at the Riverside Inn. The food here is excellent, serving the kind of breakfast that, without some self-restraint, could nail you to an early siesta rather than set up a big day of hiking.

This starts with a long ramble by the river, then up into quiet woodlands and high heaths, with plenty of historical military madness. The serene church at Byton was sacked several times by angry Welsh nobles, including the last Welsh king, Llywelyn ap Gruffudd, and later Owain Glyndŵr. The Mortimers, of course, were always in the mix. Llywelyn was killed in 1282 by the forces of Edmund Mortimer, Roger’s father, and then another Edmund, Roger’s great-grandson, cocked a snook at Henry IV by marrying Glyndŵr’s daughter, Catrin, in 1402.

It is possible to shorten this third day at a 12-mile limit, finishing at the church in Titley, but for me it’s much better to press on, rising up towards the Welsh border and a meeting with the ultimate symbol of militarisation and tribal anxiety, Offa’s Dyke. The path curls up across a featureless mountain pasture, and there it is – the formidable security wall of its day, designed to keep two irredeemably hostile peoples apart, now a little ripple in the earth which sheep use to see if there’s more grass in the next field. Sit down and ruminate on human folly before striding into Kington where there’s a decent cafe, the Border Bean, and wait for Arabella to collect you.

The trip was supported by Visit Shropshire. Download the new Mortimer Trail guidebook or buy it in Castle Bookshop, Ludlow. Salwey Lodge offers a four-night Mortimer Trail package that includes accommodation at the lodge and Riverside Inn, walking information, breakfasts, packed lunches, one dinner and local transfers for £560 per person

The stunning circular walking trail, perfect for a relaxed day out, is believed to have inspired one of the most famous authors of our time — and it’s right here in the UK.

A breathtaking walking route in Lancashire boasts an incredibly famous link to a bestselling author and has formed the inspiration behind a mammoth blockbuster film trilogy.

It’s well known that JRR Tolkien drew inspiration from Lancashire’s spectacular countryside whilst penning The Lord of the Rings, which was clearly reflected in his portrayal of Middle Earth. For decades, countless visitors have travelled from across the globe to trace the footsteps of the legendary fantasy writer.

During World War Two, Tolkien and his spouse frequently stayed at a guesthouse within Stonyhurst College’s grounds, where their son had allegedly been evacuated. This timeframe coincided with his writing of The Lord of the Rings, reports Lancs Live.

He’s believed to have sought refuge in Hurst Green village in the Ribble Valley, whose verdant and enchanting environment directly shaped The Lord of the Rings as well as his children’s fantasy tale The Hobbit.

Indeed, devotees of The Hobbit will recognise that Hobbiton and the Shire drew their inspiration from Hurst Green’s magnificent rural splendour and neighbouring regions.

The terrain surrounding Stonyhurst College also appears within Tolkien’s bestselling novels, and there’s even a complete 5.5 mile circular route called the Tolkien Trail which guides walkers through numerous locations they’d encounter referenced – or directly inspired by – in Tolkien’s masterpieces.

Renowned for his passion for woodland scenery and the natural world, several names and locations in Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings bear striking resemblance to those found in reality around Hurst Green, including Shire Lane and the River Shirebourn, which shared its name with the very family who owned the Stonyhurst estate.

Tolkien is famously reported to have devoted considerable time ‘in a classroom on the upper gallery of Stonyhurst College’ crafting Lord of the Rings.

The Tolkien Trail itself is packed with historic sites, each more captivating than the previous. Beginning and concluding near the Shireburn Arms – a celebrated gastro pub in Hurst Green – the approximately five-and-a-half-mile Tolkien Trail guides walkers through breathtaking vistas.

The Shireburn Arms itself is a 17th-century establishment which has preserved many of its period features. Celebrated for its cuisine, this independent pub features a welcoming fireplace in the public room – particularly popular with visitors during the colder months.

The Tolkien Trail guides walkers past Stonyhurst College and the historic yet famous Cromwell’s Bridge, named after Oliver Cromwell.

Initially built in 1562, Cromwell is believed to have led his forces across the ancient bridge whilst travelling from Walton-le-Dale to participate in the 1648 Battle of Preston.

The Tolkien Trail also leads visitors past Hacking Hall – a 17th-century, Grade I listed Jacobean residence located near where the River Calder meets the River Ribble. Despite being privately-owned, it remains a beloved landmark amongst walkers, particularly those who have embarked upon the Tolkien Trail.

Tolkien’s Trail also guides adventurers through verdant fields and agricultural pathways, offering hikers classic Ribble Valley countryside panoramas.

Additional remarkable features along the route include a 19th-century observatory, the 18th century Hodder Place – a former educational establishment that initially functioned as a mill owner’s home – alongside a partially-medieval barn.

Peaceful waterside sections and endless vistas of the Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) render the Tolkien Trail an ideal ramble for those seeking to undertake a relaxed stroll.

Between two and a half to three hours represents an appropriate timeframe to dedicate to this historical walking route.

Delighted visitors have flocked to Tripadvisor to praise the trail, with one writing: “The Tolkien Trail is a scenic 5.5-mile walk through the beautiful Ribble Valley, offering lush woodlands, riverside paths, and peaceful countryside.

“Inspired by J.R.R. Tolkien’s time at nearby Stonyhurst College, the trail is easy to follow and perfect for a relaxed day out. The mix of history and nature makes it a must for Tolkien fans and casual walkers alike. A great spot for a picnic with magical views!”.

Meanwhile another hiker said: ” Loved the walk. Great views and stunning scenery. Can understand this would inspire the imagination. Easy recommend.”

One visitor said: “The views and the surrounding area are exactly what you want on a walk, fresh air and green spaces with rolling hills and the rivers to marvel at too.”

How to get there

The village of Hurst Green is located approximately 5 miles west of Clitheroe and nine and a half miles northeast of Preston. Limited car parking is available in the village.

Regular bus services also operate between Clitheroe, Preston, and Whalley, stopping at Hurst Green.

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