walking

A soft breeze tickled the waters of Innominate Tarn, sending ripples dashing across the pool, bogbean and tussock grass dancing at its fringes. From my rocky perch atop Haystacks, I gazed down on Buttermere and Crummock Water glistening to the north, the round-shouldered hulks of Pillar and Great Gable looming to the south. A pair of ravens cronked indignantly, protesting against the intrusion on their eyrie; otherwise, stillness reigned.

Bless you, Alfred Wainwright, I murmured, picturing the hiking legend whose ashes are scattered around this lonely tarn. And then, surprising myself: you too, Rishi Sunak. In very different ways, both had brought me to this most spectacular of Lakeland crags.

It’s a little over half a century since Wainwright, patron saint of fell walkers, sketched a line on the map linking the Cumbria and Yorkshire shores. Not, of course, at random.

“The route follows an approximate beeline … from St Bees Head on the Irish Sea to Robin Hood’s Bay on the North Sea,” he wrote. “The grandest territory in the north of England is traversed by it; indeed, two-thirds of the route lies through the areas of three national parks.”

Today Wainwright’s Coast to Coast path is possibly Britain’s most popular multi-day trail, snaking more than 190 miles through the Lake District, Yorkshire Dales and North York Moors national parks. Curiously, though, it isn’t marked on OS Maps. Some stretches don’t even follow a public right of way. Yet.

“Rishi Sunak, whose constituency encompasses the central part of the route, campaigned for its designation as a national trail,” explains Angela Hobson, Yorkshire Dales Coast to Coast project manager. “Previously there were issues with signposting, trail maintenance, even sections that didn’t have access formally agreed.”

Natural England, which administers national trails, announced the project in 2022, backed by £5.6m funding, to be completed “early 2026”. It involved a host of work – resolving legal issues of land access; upgrading and repairing paths, bridges and other infrastructure; improving signposting and waymarking with the distinctive acorn symbol; appointment of dedicated trail officers, and other aspects. But what practical difference will this status make – to walkers, to the environment, to local communities and businesses?

To find out, I tackled the route – joined for some stretches by my partner Sarah – over 12 often exhilarating, sometimes exhausting days starting from St Bees, covering between 12 and 23 miles and bedding down in a different inn or B&B each night. The proof, after all, is in the plodding.

It soon became clear that upgrades will probably be least palpable in the Lake District. Although some 6,000 tramp the route annually, contributing perhaps £7m to local economies, that’s a drop in the ocean for one of Britain’s most visited national parks, which welcomes close to 18 million visitors a year. Signposts are conspicuously absent on fell tops here, preserving the sense of wildness – and that looks unlikely to change. So the addition of green diamonds to the OS Map, indicating a waymarked route, will be a boon to those, like me, who are navigationally challenged. And there are other tangible infrastructure improvements.

That became apparent on day one, as I descended the first real hill, Dent, down Raven Crag, where photogenically curly horned Herdwick sheep modelled obligingly. At the bottom I followed Nannycatch Beck, meandering through an elfin realm as magical as its name, beneath rowan and hawthorn, between sheer valley sides clad in bracken and coconut-scented gorse – and crossing pristine wooden footbridges to which subtle new Coast to Coast signs are affixed.

The following day, I was grateful for repairs to trails around limpid Ennerdale Water and Honister Pass. Likewise in Wainwright’s favourite vale: “The Lake District is the loveliest part of England,” he proclaimed, “and Borrowdale is the fairest of its valleys.” Along the Derwent, here a babbling baby stream shaded by venerable oaks, the splendidly christened Willygrass Bridge has been renewed.

Crossing into the Dales, I ambled through fractured limestone pavement erupting through the turf like so many broken molars. Once more, impacts of National Trail work were evident. “Many international guests have never experienced peat hag before,” notes Nick, who – with his partner Rachel – runs the fabulous Old Croft House B&B in Kirkby Stephen, where I stayed, dishing up local lore, advice and slabs of luscious chocolate cake. “Sections of the path were so muddy, and saw so many walkers each year, that it became a quagmire 30 or 40 metres wide. Now old flagstones reclaimed from the region’s mills have been laid up to and across White Mossy Hill, making it accessible in pretty much all weathers. Some say they spoil the sense of wilderness, but they protect that fragile environment as well as making navigation easier.”

Up towards the Brobdingnagian cairns on Nine Standards Rigg, I discovered a new long, snaking trail of heavy-duty stepping stones which protect precious peat and delicate moss ecosystems – and keep boots dry. Passing the route’s midway point, the postcard-pretty Swaledale village of Keld, and climbing on to the moor above Muker, past the ruins of gloriously named Crackpot Hall. Following the newly realigned path to the lead-mining relics around Swinner Gill and Gunnerside Gill, a concealed otherworld where the remains of pit buildings, channels and smelters only add to the enchantment.

Beyond Richmond’s bulky castle (built by Alan the Red, my new favourite Norman), and fuelled by tea loaf topped with a wedge of creamy local wensleydale, I left the Dales to cross the flat agricultural Vale of Mowbray. Past Ingleby Cross, at the gateway to the North York Moors national park, the ascent through the silver birches and ferns of Scarth Wood is a welcome return to hillwalking, tracing the northern scarp of the Cleveland Hills. Improvements, from new National Trail signs to replacing stiles with gates, will benefit local people, not just long-distance hikers, North York Moors Coast to Coast project officer Bernie McLinden told me.

Perhaps the loveliest example came in Little Beck Wood on my final day, following May Beck to the waterfall of Falling Foss. In this broadleaf Arcadia of mossy boulders and ferns, soaring shale cliffs, chiming birdsong and melodious brook, I joined laughing families on stone paths laboriously laid by Bernie and volunteers, replacing slippery boardwalks. A few miles out from Robin Hood’s Bay and journey’s end, I recalled Angela’s words.

“I took my daughter up to White Mossy Hill and said to her: ‘You’ll be able to walk over this with your children, and they’ll be able to walk over it with their grandchildren,’” she beamed. “‘And I helped build it.’” Wainwright’s legacy, refreshed.

The trip was provided by Macs Adventure, which offers various Coast to Coast holidays, including a 14-day itinerary (12 days’ walking) from £1,579 including B&B accommodation, luggage transfers and route info. More relaxed, slower options are also available.

The cliff path has been named the cleanest hiking trail in the UK by Independent Cottages – though the route is impacted by rockfall and has some impressive drops along the way

A dizzying cliff path overlooking a churning sea has been crowned the UK’s cleanest hiking trail.

The Gobbins, an extraordinary and awe-inspiring route that stretches for three miles along the treacherous cliffs of County Antrim in Northern Ireland, has clinched the top spot in Independent Cottages’ ranking of the UK’s cleanest walking trails. Remarkably, there were no mentions of uncleanliness across more than 1,300 reviews.

The Gobbins presents a surreal landscape, born from colossal geological forces and subsequently shaped by the elements. Today, it teems with life and has been captivating courageous visitors for over a hundred years.

The tale of The Gobbins begins some 200 million years ago when the Earth’s continents were united in the supercontinent, Pangaea. The land that would eventually become northeast Ireland was submerged beneath a warm, shallow sea.

Algae and single-celled organisms thrived in these waters, their calcium carbonate shells slowly accumulating layers of calcium on the seafloor after they died, which solidified into a limestone layer, reports the Express.

OPINION

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This is what gave rise to the coastlines and caves that are dotted across Ireland today. This stone forms the bedrock of The Gobbins’ spectacular rock formations.

Atop this lies basalt, a product of eruptions from now long-extinct volcanoes, which has been fractured and moulded by the shifting bedrock of tectonic plates as Pangaea separated, and later, vast ice sheets during ice ages.

The outcome is one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline found anywhere across the British Isles, which happens to offer countless habitats for diverse birds and marine creatures. For instance, the Gobbins hosts Northern Ireland’s sole mainland colony of puffins, which nest in the cliff-face earth disturbed by ancient glaciers.

“Guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, and kittiwakes make their homes high in the rocks and scan the waters from perches on the sea stacks. The depths teem with fish, feeding in the plankton-rich waters of the North Channel. Lion’s Mane jellyfish, one of the largest such species, migrate through here, providing prey for seals, porpoises and other marine mammals,” the official Gobbins Cliff Path website writes.

“Low tide exposes the rockpools under the path, a home for molluscs, sponges and weird nodules of red seaweed. Spleenwort ferns, kidney vetch, and sea campion cling to cracks in the rocks or hold down patches of volcanic soil.”

The stunning natural landscape has transformed this location into an essential walking destination, first attracting masses of nature enthusiasts and day visitors during the Victorian era. Berkeley Deane Wise played a crucial role in shaping the Gobbins into what it is today.

This civil engineer, who had climbed to the position of Chief Engineer of the Belfast and County Down Railway and had created a groundbreaking signalling system that cut accidents on his routes, possessed a dedication to safety and fascinating design. Amongst his creations are the mock Tudor structure and clock tower in Portrush, plus walkways and a tearoom in Glenariff Forest that offer a superb view of its woodland and waterfalls.

The Gobbins Cliff Path is widely regarded as his most significant achievement and perfectly captures his brilliance as an engineer dedicated to helping ordinary folk enjoy remarkable experiences.

Construction commenced in 1901 and spanned several years, given the challenge of transporting steel girder bridges manufactured in Belfast via barges and rafts. These were subsequently hoisted into position using lines lowered from the clifftop.

The pathway became enormously popular and drew vast numbers of tourists from throughout the British Isles. “There is, in short, nothing like The Gobbins anywhere else in the world,” noted a correspondent in the Proceedings of the British Association in 1902.

A writer for The Sketch observed: “Surely there is something in the influence of the Irish climate which acts upon the rocks. The tints are softer and deeper. The very air is laden with poetry.”

Regrettably, the Gobbins route is currently shut due to rockfall. If you’re considering a trip, ensure you verify the official website for the latest information on its availability.

Deep in the heartland of rural Cheshire, there’s a wind-scoured ridge of sandstone that hides a two-storey cave known as Mad Allen’s Hole. Here, on the flanks of Bickerton Hill, it is said that in the 18th century a heartbroken man called John Harris of Handley lived as a hermit for several decades.

As locations to weather the storm of romantic trauma go, this – I mused as I stood above it on a crisp winter’s day – certainly takes some beating. Offering a panorama of nine counties of England and Wales from its entrance, I could spy the white disc of Jodrell Bank Observatory glistening in the sunlight, while the peaks and troughs of the Clwydian range appeared like a watermark in the distance.

I’d come here, not seeking solitude, but to meet up with Jose, an old friend I’d not seen for nine years, and to try a new walking package dreamed up by two Cheshire pubs along a prime section of the 34-mile (55km) Sandstone Trail between the villages of Tarporley and Malpas. The route follows the Sandstone Ridge, an ancient landscape of escarpments and rolling hills, rising from the Cheshire Plain.

The idea for the walk is simple: just because it’s winter doesn’t mean it has to be hard. Daylight hours are limited, the weather is less predictable, so why not stick to one 14-mile stretch, bookended with a comfy, warm room in each inn, and good food and drink – dinner on both nights and a cooked breakfast are included, as is an optional packed lunch. The pubs arrange the luggage transfer and a taxi when you finish to take you back to the start.

We met in the Swan in Tarporley – a 16th-century coaching inn, where, in front of a roaring open fire, we caught up on old times, studied the walk map and enjoyed food made from ingredients farmed practically on the doorstep. As we tucked into the cheeseboard (Tarporley blue comes highly recommended), owner Woody Barlow told us how the idea was born in the summer when they held a charity fun run between the two pubs in memory of the late owner Si Lees-Jones.

“It was so successful, we began to think – these two pubs have always been popular with walkers, cyclists and outdoor enthusiasts, especially those doing the Sandstone Trail in sections,” he said. “Many were trying to organise accommodation night by night, but we realised we could offer something much more streamlined. Plus at this time of year, the trail has a lovely stillness about it – the woods and ridgelines look magical in the winter light.”

I woke the next morning to the sound of rain on my window, but as I met Jose for breakfast – a hearty helping of eggs – the sky unexpectedly began to clear. Leaving the town, we followed country lanes, where the hedges bloomed with sloes. Acorns cracked under our boots. These nuts would once have been used for nourishing pigs before the start of medieval feasts – like those once held in Beeston Castle, the former royal fort built by the Earl of Cheshire on his return from the crusades in the 1220s, which filled the horizon.

We cut through a muddy field, making a beeline for this landmark, then followed the Sandstone Trail waymarks over the Shropshire Union Canal at Wharton’s Lock. We reached the tall red walls of rubble-filled sandstone blocks and huge wooden doors of the castle, said to house treasure from Richard II.

It was a tempting prospect, but with miles still to cover we made our way instead through the network of weaving pathways on Peckforton Hills, topped with towering red pines that give shelter from the icy wind but allow light to drop to the forest floor in dazzling spindles. Here we came across a Victorian castle folly built in the 1840s and now a hotel popular with wedding parties, but we were more taken with nature’s treasures in the form of sweet chestnuts on neighbouring Bulkeley Hill. The bark of these old trees would have once been used by passing Romans to tan leather and the nuts were essential rations for legionnaires.

We stopped here a while, enjoying our sandwiches from the pub on our first exposure to some of the tor-like sandstone that the ridge is named for, before soldiering on to our next summit – Raw Head on Bickerton Hill. At 227 metres (745ft), it’s not huge, but it is the highest point on the trail. We wandered through the forest talking about its history (its rocks were formed about 250m years ago in the Triassic period, and iron oxide has caused them to become banded in hues of red, terracotta and ochre, which cement the sand together) and our own past lives, discussing friends we once shared.

As the sun hung ever lower in the sky, we still had some climbing to do on Bickerton Hill, home to the hermit’s cave. The area is replete with lowland heath, once used for grazing, thatching, and foraging. Bilberries still grow there.

We traced the edges of Maiden Castle – the remains of an iron age hill fort built between 500 and 600BC and still occupied when the Romans arrived in Britain – before descending to country lanes, where someone had kindly left a wheelbarrow of apples for hikers.

The light emanating from the windows of the 300-year-old Lion pub welcomed us to our big finish nearly as warmly as the staff, who were suitably impressed with the distance we’d walked, making us feel like we’d had a proper adventure.

Before we retired to bed we raised a glass – to the views, the hearty food and, of course, to heartbroken John Harris – in short, to our perfect winter walk. We promised not to leave it another nine years before we walked together again.

The trip was provided by The Swan in Tarporley and The Lion in Malpas, with travel from visitengland.com. The Walk, Dine & Unwind on Cheshire’s Sandstone Trail package is from £199pp, including dinner, B&B at both inns, luggage transfer, one packed lunch and a taxi back to start, plus one dog stays free

This valley in the Yorkshire Dales is home to charming villages, historic mining sites, scenic trails and England’s highest pub at 1,732 feet

Nestled at the northernmost point of the Yorkshire Dales, this dale is steeped in history from its mining past, with countless tales etched into its landscape.

Swaledale, a delightful Dale, is home to the River Swale, England’s fastest river, which gracefully meanders through its verdant fields. Tucked away amidst this natural beauty is the Tan Hill Inn, England’s loftiest pub, inviting guests to drop by as they traverse the undulating hills of Yorkshire.

Perched at an impressive 1,732 feet above sea level, this historic pub dates back to the 17th century and exudes a cosy charm. Adorned with exposed beams, a stone-flagged entrance and a crackling fire, it provides the perfect tranquil spot for a pint and a bite while exploring the region.

At the heart of the Dale lies Reeth, a central village boasting three popular pubs, charming arts and crafts shops, and a delightful bakery offering local pies and breads. Fridays are a highlight in the area, as the village transforms into a bustling market, with stalls lining the streets selling a variety of eclectic goods.

In Reeth, you’ll discover a museum that illuminates the fascinating rural life of the Yorkshire Dales and its rich local heritage. Here visitors can explore decades of the area’s heritage, with exhibits spanning geological specimens to prehistoric discoveries and, naturally, equipment linked to its rich lead mining past.

Following their trip, one delighted guest said on TripAdvisor that the museum was a “wonderful surprise”. They said: “I love a museum, and I have visited my fair share, but this was a truly surprising little gem.

“I have never seen quite so much variety crammed into such a small space, and the range of information covering the local community in its history was wonderful. A great amount of detail is provided in a clear and understandable manner, combined with humorous and heartwarming local stories.”

For those eager to experience the lush landscapes of the valley, the Swale Trail is an absolute must. Whether tackled on foot or by bicycle, according to enthusiastic explorers, it’s a destination that justifies the effort.

Following their adventure, one visitor said: “Amazing views. We did this by ebike, but imagine you’d need quite a high fitness level for the Gunnerside to Keld route on pedal power alone. Gunnerside to Keld, however, has the best views. This route overall is actually one of the best trails around but seems relatively undiscovered.”

The area’s traditional allure is evident throughout the year, but it’s particularly enchanting during spring and summer when the hardy Swaledale sheep graze and beautiful wildflowers bloom amidst the stunning hay meadows. Even on the chilliest days, the valley continues to reveal a wealth of trails and hidden treasures.

A Spirograph of starlings in Cambridgeshire

Arrive at Fowlmere RSPB reserve, 10 miles south-west of Cambridge, an hour before nightfall to allow yourself time to find a good vantage point to enjoy the spectacle of the murmuration. Starlings gather and swirl in fluid Spirograph shapes, framed by shadowy trees against sunset reds until the sky darkens and the birds take their last dip into the reed beds. It really is a spectacular display, available most winter evenings here.
Helena

Rowing the canals of Bristol in all weathers

Our Bristol Channel Social Rowers club goes out in all weather. Frosty and clear, intense blue skies add pleasure to our early morning session. We soon warm up, for as it says on the side of our gig, Rowing Keeps You Going. It’s quiet except for the rhythm of the long oars and the ripple of water under us. We skim past Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s SS Great Britain. Then round St Mary Redcliffe church with its 84-metre spire. Hearing the bells during a Sunday row is magical.
David Innes-Wilkin

Marvellous Malvern Hills, Worcestershire

You can’t beat a wintry walk on the Malvern Hills on a crisp, bright day. One of my favourite routes is up the Herefordshire Beacon, on top of which is British Camp, an iron age hill fort. I always pass the tiny Giant’s cave (also called Clutters cave) and loop back above the reservoir. My inner child recommends taking cardboard for dry-sledging down the ditches (or a normal sledge, if we’re lucky enough for snow), but a post-ramble hot chocolate from either the Sally’s Place cafe or Malvern Hills hotel, both across the road from the car park, is a must.
Jemma Saunders

Untamed route in north Cornwall

Few corners of the UK feel wilder than Cornwall’s north coast during low season. Here, the untamed Atlantic meets the spectacular sheer cliffs between Tintagel and Port Isaac, with the South West Coast Path snaking its way precariously along the top. After a walk with the elements, settle down for some wave-watching at the Port William inn perched above Trebarwith Strand. Spectacular sunsets and family-run surf clubs are on offer, all in the imposing shadow of legendary Gull Rock. The best part? There is no phone signal in this former smuggling inlet, affording undivided attention to this dramatic land/ocean double act.
Adam McCormack

Rockpooling and dinosaurs in Somerset

Donning woolly hats, jumpers and waterproofs, I set off with my young children to the fossil-strewn beach at Kilve, Somerset. On the way we play Poohsticks, get stuck in mud and paddle in a stream. Once at the beach, every new trip brings fresh delights; devil’s toenails, ammonites, fossilised wood and crabs. We paint pebbles, fall on on our bums on wet rocks and play dinosaurs in rock pools.
Chantelle

Cycling and dark skies in Northumberland

Kielder Water in Northumberland, one of the largest artificial lakes in Europe, offers walking, wildlife, cycling and water sports. We hired bikes and did the wonderful 26-mile route round the reservoir. There are also a multitude of routes available in the forest for mountain bikers. If clear skies are forecast book an evening at the Kielder Observatory where we were entranced by the dark skies and the amazing telescopes. Hot chocolate was also on offer to warm us up as we gazed into the depths of our universe.
Matthew

Spot heroes of the underworld in UK woods

I love mushroom-spotting in the colder months. Apps such as Seek can help you identify the ones you find (but don’t rely on apps to establish whether a mushroom is edible or not). I also have my little pocket-size mushroom book. It keeps me on the lookout and interested in my surroundings, helping me stay mindful. I especially like the common name of the mushrooms. I am on the lookout for witch’s butter, wood ear and velvet shank. I am combining this with my love of photography and learning how to take pictures of mushrooms to highlight their beauty. They really are the unsung heroes of the underworld.
Ese

Hiking has taught me to embrace the rain

I’m usually the hibernating type in winter, but since joining a local hiking group, I’ve changed my ways. There has been nothing more satisfying than feeling the crisp, fresh wind against my face and forcing myself to be present in the moment. It’s taken me 37 years to acknowledge the beautiful, natural landscapes right on my doorstep. Where once I was afraid of the cold and rain, I now wrap up warm, take it in my stride and beat those winter blues one step at a time. Not to mention the sense of achievement I feel afterwards.
Shema

Boxing Day charity walk in Derry

The Goal Mile is a charity walk (and run) that takes place in many locations across the island of Ireland every Boxing Day to support the charity Goal’s work in the developing world. In Derry the walk follows the River Foyle and crosses the iconic Peace Bridge. It’s a much-needed release valve for those of us suffering cabin fever at this time of the year and a great way of raising money.
Ciaran

Winning tip: a clear day on Cader Idris, Eryri national park

First, pick a dry, clear, cold day and ensure you wear good boots and warm clothes, have told people where you’ll be, and know what the weather forecast holds. Now you’re ready for a rewarding day: a circular, five-hour walk to the summit of Wales’s finest mountain, Cader Idris starting from the Eryri national park’s Dôl Idris car park. Up steep steps through woods to Llyn Cau, a wonderful corrie; next, a tough ascent of Craig Cau and Cader Idris’s summit Penygader (fall asleep there, and wake up mad or a poet, according to legend); then back along Mynydd Moel, where Richard Wilson made one of the first (18th century) and finest mountain portraits in British art. Unforgettable!
Andrew Green