Craig Bellamy laughs when asked about Rubin Colwill, the 23-year-old forward currently impressing for Cardiff City.
“He’s big for you, isn’t he?,” Bellamy asks the reporter who brings up his name.
Not that Bellamy is not a fan of the nine-cap midfielder, to the contrary.
However, Colwill has not always featured in Bellamy’s Wales squads despite playing a starring role in Cardiff’s League One promotion bid and their quarter-final EFL Cup run.
“Rubin is able, there’s still one or two bits that we need more from, but he’s capable,” insists Bellamy who has plenty of other reasons to be a regular at Cardiff City Stadium.
“For the first time in a long, long time, I’ve really enjoyed coming away from Cardiff games with a smile,” he added.
“Last year was difficult, the atmosphere was down, but now I get to see a number of Welsh young players playing in a way I like.
“I only see them improving and selfishly I just see that this is going to benefit the country, so I’m over the moon with that.”
Iceland and Ukraine have also been placed in Group A3 alongside Sarina Wiegman’s side.
Qualifying for the World Cup, which will be held in Brazil, follows the same format as the Nations League and is split into three tiers.
Only the four group winners in League A will automatically qualify for the finals, with the remaining teams having to go through the play-offs for the remaining eight places.
Scotland have been paired with Belgium, Israel and Luxembourg in Group B4, while Wales will face the Czech Republic, Albania and Montenegro in Group B1.
Northern Ireland have been placed in Group B2 with Switzerland, Turkey and Malta, and the Republic of Ireland are in Group A2 alongside the Netherlands, France and Poland.
The qualifiers will be played across six matchdays, on a home and away basis, during 2026, starting on 3 March and finishing on 9 June.
Uefa has been allocated 11 places for the 32-team 2027 World Cup.
An additional European team could also qualify through Fifa’s intercontinental play-offs.
Wales are playing a week later than other nations, with all last weekend’s games played outside World Rugby’s international window.
The window is a designated three-week period, which starts this weekend, where international matches take precedence over club fixtures and all players are made available.
The likes of Ireland, Scotland and England chose to stage matches a week before the window opened.
The extra games are organised to raise revenue for governing bodies with the success of the fixture depending on how many tickets are sold.
The Welsh Rugby Union (WRU) has opted to play their extra match on the weekend after the window closes. They take on the Springboks on Saturday, 29 November when no other international matches are taking place.
The match in Cardiff clashes with league fixtures in the United Rugby Championship (URC) which will involve sides from Wales and South Africa.
Both Test teams are set to also be without players who play for clubs in England and France, while the Springboks also have players involved with sides in Japan.
Tatum Ellis, who is known for documenting her travels across the UK, recently visited the seaside town for the first time and she ventured to the local Wetherspoons
13:50, 03 Nov 2025Updated 13:51, 03 Nov 2025
She thought the town was stunning (stock image)(Image: Manuta via Getty Images)
However, the attraction that caught her eye might just surprise you, as the travel vlogger shared her experience on TikTok, leaving some viewers amused by the one aspect she found particularly “gorgeous.” It seems that when it comes to breath-taking views, Wales certainly has a lot to offer both visitors and locals.
At the start of her video, she began by exploring some local charity shops. A fan of a good bargain, she seemed delighted with what the shops had to offer.
Tatum discovered two gold rings in one shop, which she snapped up for a mere £5.00 each. She was over the moon with her purchases, describing them as “super pretty.”
She continued her exploration with her partner, but it was a specific pub that grabbed her attention. Upon spotting a Wetherspoons, Tatum was quite taken aback, impressed by the décor.
According to her, the local Wetherspoons is particularly “gorgeous” and offers “stunning views.” Who would have thought a simple pub could make such an impression?
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Tatum said: “We love a good Wetherspoons. Guys, take a look at this Wetherspoons. Have some of you ever seen anything like that? I sure haven’t, so let’s get some food right now.”
She also praised the stunning scenery surrounding her, describing it as an exceptionally beautiful location. The pair then made their way to the beach and clearly had a brilliant time.
Tatum thinks Llandudno is absolutely worth a visit, saying they adored it and found plenty to explore. The clip has racked up more than 3,000 views since being posted, sparking a flurry of responses.
Viewers had plenty of opinions to share. One wrote: “You are so lucky to find a table in Wetherspoons.”
Another added: “I love Llandudno.” A third replied: “I live here and love how you have shown the town.”
Meanwhile, a fourth commented: “This is my home. So glad you enjoyed it.” Someone else also chimed in with: “I can’t believe you passed so many brilliant pubs on the way to Spoons!”
For those unfamiliar with Llandudno, it’s a coastal town in North Wales, frequently dubbed the “Queen of the Welsh Resorts.” The Victorian-era holiday hotspot is renowned for its extensive promenade, historic pier and golden beaches.
The age at which you can get a free bus pass can differ greatly depending on where you are based
Brits could secure free bus travel depending on eligiblity(Image: Getty Images)
People across the nation could be in line for additional assistance with their travel expenses, including a bus pass offering free or discounted journeys on local bus services. No matter where you reside in the UK, there is a plethora of schemes designed to make public transport more wallet-friendly, though not everyone will qualify.
Eligibility can vary greatly depending on your location within the UK. For instance, the age at which you can receive a free bus pass can differ significantly if you are located in England, Scotland, or Wales.
Most of the complimentary bus passes nationwide are primarily reserved for the elderly, especially after the government confirmed it will abandon a proposed trial of free bus passes for anyone under 22 in England. As per a BBC report, the government stated that there were no funds available to support the scheme during the current spending review period, which runs until 2028/29.
Continue reading for a comprehensive overview of all the available assistance.
England
In England, pensioners become eligible for a free bus pass when they hit the state pension age of 66, which applies to both men and women. So, if you were born in 1959, you will be able to get your hands on the free bus pass this year.
You can apply for this scheme through your local council under the English National Concessionary Travel Scheme, although the actual name of the bus pass may change depending on where you live.
When applying, you might be asked to provide a passport-style photo as well as a document proving your age and address. However, there is one city in England that has slightly different rules.
Free travel on buses, tubes and other transport is available from the age of 60, but this is only within London. This can be accessed via the 60+ London Oyster photocard which also allows you to get free transport on Transport for London services anytime Monday to Friday, except between 4.30am and 9am.
Further details of free bus travel in England can be found here.
Scotland
In Scotland, once you hit 60, you can get your hands on a National Entitlement Card which gives you free bus travel all over Scotland. However, bear in mind that this Scottish concessionary travel only applies to registered local and long-distance bus services.
So, certain premium-fare services, tours, excursions and group hire services aren’t part of the deal. If you are also between the age of five and 21, you may also be eligible for a National Entitlement Card (NEC) which allows you to access the Young Persons’ Free Bus Travel Scheme.
Further details on free bus travel for older people in Scotland can be found here.. Meanwhile, further details on free bus travel for younger people in Scotland can be found here.
Wales
Within Wales, you may be able to get free travel on buses if you are disabled, aged 60 or over, or an injured service personnel which you can apply for through Transport for Wales. While not free, people aged between 16 and 21 caaan apply for a MyTravelPass which allows them to get up to a third off the cost of bus travel in many circumstances.
Further details of this in Wales can be found here.
Sitting on the border of England and Wales, this quaint town has open bookshelves in the streets and independent bookshops lining the roads, drawing in readers from across the UK
10:18, 31 Oct 2025Updated 10:18, 31 Oct 2025
The town sits in Powys, Wales, close to the England border(Image: P A Thompson via Getty Images)
Nestled beneath the ruins of a picturesque castle, with open bookshelves lining the streets and independent bookshops at every turn, Hay-on-Wye is an avid reader’s dream come true.
This quaint town, largely dedicated to the joy of reading, has been a haven for book lovers since 1961 when Richard Booth opened his first shop. It quickly transformed into a literary hotspot.
Today, it boasts over 20 bookshops and hosts an annual festival that attracts some of the world’s most esteemed authors and thinkers. The Hay Festival spans ten days from May to June each year.
The inception of the Hay Festival in 1988 put the town firmly on the global map as a literary sanctuary. Past guest speakers have included renowned actors such as Judi Dench and Jude Law, and even former US president Bill Clinton.
Among the castle ruins lies a unique book spot where visitors can browse open-air shelves brimming with books. Operating on an honesty system, tourists are expected to leave money in a payment box after selecting their books, which typically range from £1 to £6.
A TripAdvisor review says: “This is a very interesting place to visit with fabulous guides who have so much knowledge of the castle and it’s history…. there is also a very good gift shop with an amazing array of history books and gifts of all kinds. I would definitely encourage you to visit.”
Book lovers will find plenty to explore amongst the town’s beloved independent shops. The original Richard Booth Bookshop remains one of Hay’s largest, offering both new and second-hand titles alongside welcoming nooks where visitors can settle in with a good read.
For something different, the Hay Cinema Bookshop occupies a former picture house spread across two storeys. Its extensive collection is made easier to browse thanks to helpful signage throughout the sprawling sections.
Castle Bookshop earns high praise from bibliophiles and ranks amongst TripAdvisor’s must-visit destinations in the town. One review notes: “Best place in Hay for all types of books, with many bargains to be had. Has a lovely selection of old as well as new books.
“The only bad mark is it is not good for the disabled, as everything is up and down steps and tight walkways. But if you are a book fan, you must give it a visit.”
It has been suggested that McKenna would be open to speaking to Celtic given his boyhood allegiances.
“Growing up, we all have our affinities,” he said when asked about those. “I don’t think everyone has to go around and announce what they were, but of course it’s a really big football club.”
McKenna signed a new four-year contract in 2024 and was asked about his reported £5m release clause.
“In every manager’s contract, there are things,” he replied. “I don’t know what mine are and, if I did, I wouldn’t tell you anyway!
“I approach this job like I’ll be Ipswich manager forever. I know that’s not always going to be the case, but I’ll always do my best as long as I am here.”
Bellamy played for Celtic on loan from Newcastle United in 2005, but the former Wales striker is minded to complete the current World Cup campaign, a stance that would effectively rule out the 46-year-old from immediately taking the Celtic job.
Wales are currently third in their qualifying group behind leaders Belgium and second-placed North Macedonia.
Victories over Liechtenstein and North Macedonia in November would book their place in the qualification play-offs, but they are all but assured of making those, thanks to a successful Nations League campaign, even if they fail to finish as Group J runners-up.
Given his current stance, Bellamy, whose contract expires after Euro 2028, would not be available until after the play-offs at the earliest.
This town in North Wales has been a popular holiday destination for centuries, with its stunning beaches, historic pier and beautiful landscapes drawing in visitors
One of it’s beaches offers stunning views of Snowdonia (Image: Alexander Spatari via Getty Images)
This North Wales town boasts a lengthy history of attracting holidaymakers from all corners of Britain, having earned the prestigious nickname “Queen of the Welsh Watering Places”.
The Victorian coastal treasure of Llandudno, with its colourful past, is believed to trace its roots back to the Bronze Age. These distinctive features attract tourists eager to experience the breathtaking scenery of the Conwy Valley and discover the region’s fascinating heritage.
Two principal beaches extend along the coastline – North Shore Beach and West Shore Beach. The northern stretch features a lengthy promenade typical of any British coastal resort.
However, what distinguishes it from others is its palm tree-lined walkway – reminiscent of a Mediterranean haven. Nestled peacefully beyond North Shore Beach lies the Great Orme clifftop, providing an excursion on the Great Orme Tramway, transporting visitors to elevated vantage points via cable cars.
One delighted tourist commented: “The cable car ride was amazing; for the length of the journey, £14 per return (this was the price in 2024) is pretty reasonable. The views are stunning, and you can see for miles on a really clear day, which we had.”
On the West Shore, nestled on the other side of the town, one can enjoy panoramic views of the Snowdonian mountainside. A TripAdvisor review gushes: “One of my favourite beaches anywhere: unspoilt, dog-friendly, free of kiosks and vendors – just sea, rock and sand. Stunning views of the Great Orme. Lots of parking.”
The charming town of Llandudno boasts a rich history that stretches from the Stone Age through to the Iron Age, with numerous settlements over the years on the slopes of the limestone headland, better known as the Great Orme. The headland is a popular attraction for visitors from near and far, offering a four-hour trek filled with breathtaking views.
The Victorian promenade, affectionately known as The Parade, and the iconic pier are two of the town’s most beloved landmarks, both dating back to 1877. After extensive restorations, the pier has earned the title of one of the best in the whole of the UK.
One visitor shared their experience of the pier, saying: “Excellent pier experience. A Punch and Judy, plenty of arcades, hair braiding/colouring, a good walk, fun stalls and a cafe with a wonderful lady singer belting out Amy Winehouse numbers. There’s even a little display of historical photos to show when the pier was used for the ferries. Well worth a visit.”
This castle in Wales has been compared to the Leaning Tower of Pisa and is said to be ‘like stepping into a giant storybook filled with knights and kings’
The castle dates back to the 13th century(Image: Ceri Breeze via Getty Images)
Brimming with history and overflowing with character, this Welsh castle has captured the hearts of visitors who’ve compared its splendour to some of the globe’s most iconic landmarks.
Caerphilly Castle is a medieval fortress dating back to the 13th century and, after a two-year restoration, has reopened its doors to the public. Visitors can now wander through the Great Hall and inner castle ward whilst exploring cutting-edge digital exhibitions inside. It was originally built by Gilbert de Clare as part of his strategy to maintain control of Glamorgan – then Wales’s most populous and industrialised county.
With the Prince of Wales’s influence rapidly expanding, he needed to establish his authority swiftly. To achieve this, construction began in 1268 on what became the nation’s largest castle and second only to Windsor Castle across the entire UK.
Spanning more than 30 acres with massive walls and gatehouses, alongside extensive water defences, it’s fair to say his ambitions were realised. One visitor shared their impressions on TripAdvisor, saying: “A sprawling site that is quite impressive.
“The large site minimises crowding, so you should be able to enjoy the site at your leisure – we certainly did. Limited amount of interiors remaining but still well worth the visit.”
To grasp just how enormous this fortress truly is, it’s three times larger than the Principality Stadium, Wales’ rugby headquarters. Many have likened it to Italy’s iconic Leaning Tower of Pisa, thanks to its own tilting tower which makes it all the more distinctive.
One visitor said: “Caerphilly Castle is like stepping into a giant storybook filled with knights and kings. From the moment you lay eyes on its towering walls, impressive moat and imposing towers, you are transported back in time.”
Another highlighted the tower as their standout feature, saying: “This is one of the most beautiful castles in the UK. It is very pretty, especially the leaning tower.”
Located in South Wales, Caerphilly Castle sits just 30 minutes by car from Cardiff city centre. It’s also conveniently positioned less than an hour from Swansea and within 90 minutes of Gloucester.
Entry to the castle is reasonably priced, with adult tickets at £11.90 and family passes at £38.10, whilst disabled visitors and children under five can enter free of charge. Commenting on the admission cost, one guest remarked: “I have paid more for far less at other mansion houses, etc, and this was so worth the entrance fee.”
How many fans that will be there to watch Wales this autumn remains to be seen with the current discontent surrounding the Welsh game.
There has been very little success on the field and disarray off the pitch in the past couple of years, with the Welsh Rugby Union (WRU) now preparing to cut a men’s professional side.
The Principality Stadium capacity is 74,500 meaning the four matches could attract 298,000 supporters in November.
A WRU statement read: “With more than 200,000 supporters expected to visit Cardiff over the four-match series, to match average attendances over the last 10 years, ticket sales are tracking well against targets for the Quilter Nations Series.
“Fans are keen to see Wales take on Argentina, Japan, New Zealand and South Africa on home turf.
“As you would expect, the All Blacks game is the best seller and Principality Stadium’s best chance of a sell-out this autumn.”
For fans of the director, one iconic location lies much closer to home and it is guaranteed to take your breath away
08:00, 25 Oct 2025Updated 08:28, 25 Oct 2025
You may recognise Henrhyd falls from a Hollywood hit(Image: Getty)
When you think of Christopher Nolan’s films, your mind might wander to the Parisian boulevards from Inception, New York’s skyscrapers doubling as Gotham in Batman, or even the expansive New Mexico desert featured in Oppenheimer.
However, for devotees of the groundbreaking British director, one iconic location is much closer to home and it’s sure to leave you breathless.
Nestled deep within a wooded gorge on the fringes of the Brecon Beacons, there lies a waterfall so spectacular that it was chosen as a filming location for a major Hollywood blockbuster.
Yet, many Welsh locals may not even be aware of its existence.
Henrhyd Falls, the tallest waterfall in South Wales, was selected by Christopher Nolan as the entrance to the Batcave in his entire The Dark Knight trilogy. Scenes featuring the Black Tumbler – the massive tank-like Batmobile – soaring through the Welsh waters into the superhero’s clandestine lair were filmed here, reports the Express.
But fear not, you don’t need to be the Caped Crusader to visit this waterfall. There’s no need for any of Bruce Wayne’s gadgets, perhaps just a sturdy pair of boots will do.
Your journey begins with a walk along a path through verdant woodland near the village of Coelbren. Here, you can already hear the sound of rushing water in the distance.
A steep yet well-maintained footpath then guides you down into the gorge, winding towards the waters.
After a 20-minute stroll, you’re greeted by the breathtaking sight of a 27-metre waterfall cascading into a moss-lined gorge.
This might trigger memories of Batman’s secret lair from The Dark Knight Rises, as this very waterfall was featured prominently when John Blake, aka Robin, stumbles upon the hidden entrance to the Batcave.
What transforms Henrhyd from just a picturesque scene to a location with Hollywood status is its inherent drama. The waterfall tumbles over a hard sandstone ledge, known locally as the “Farewell Rock”, into a narrow gorge enveloped by dense forest.
It’s slightly off the beaten path, giving it that elusive “hidden lair” feel.
One recent visitor was utterly captivated by the experience, leaving a glowing review: “Henrhyd Falls is absolutely stunning – a hidden gem surrounded by beautiful nature. The walk down to the waterfall is scenic and peaceful, and standing behind the falls is an unforgettable experience. The sound of the rushing water and the lush greenery make it feel magical.”
The optimal time to visit is after a light rain shower, when the waterfall is at its most dramatic, although the paths can be slippery, particularly if you venture behind the curtain of water.
Early mornings are usually quieter, and sturdy footwear is essential – along with a waterproof if you plan to get close enough to feel the spray.
Henrhyd Falls is a must-visit for nature lovers and Batman enthusiasts alike. Even if the Batmobile isn’t spotted in the shadows, visitors will undoubtedly leave with the sense of having uncovered one of Wales’s most captivating hidden gems.
It’s no surprise that well-known faces are regularly spotted in this beautiful seaside village
Portia Jones Senior Journalist and Steffan Rhys Deputy Content Hub Director
16:19, 22 Oct 2025
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This seaside village is full of independent shops and Grand Designs-worthy homes and celebrities love it(Image: Ashley Cooper via Getty Images)
It’s one of my favourite places on the UK coast and it came as no surprise to me that reality TV star Molly-Mae Hague recently visited for a seaside escape. In one of the latest episodes of her Amazon Prime series, Molly-Mae shared some of the moments from her recent trip to the lovely Abersoch in north Wales.
Staying in a beach house on the seafront, she and a friend, plus her daughter Bambi, had their own steps down to the sand and views straight out over the dreamy coastal landscape, which she described as “gorgeous.”
It’s not the first time a celebrity has been spotted here. In 2024, Hollywood mega star Bradley Cooper was seen in Abersoch with survival expert Bear Grylls.
The pair ate a quiet lunch in Blades cafe and are reported to have even cleared away their own plates. Traitors star Kate Garraway went for a break with her family, calling it an “amazing weekend”. Coleen Rooney also shared a snap of her holiday in the area.
Abersoch has loads of affordable holiday homes, guest houses and cottages for a weekend break, and you can get great deals in the off-season. You can check for hotel deals on sites like booking.com, Sykes Cottages, and Holiday Cottages to find a hotel, cottage, or self-catering stay that suits your budget and group size.
With sandy beaches, resident dolphins and a swish ice cream parlour named one of the best places for ice cream in the UK, it’s easy to see why celebs flock to Abersoch.
Located on the Llŷn Peninsula, or Pen Llŷn, the coastal town of Abersoch is one of the most lovely spots along the Llŷn. This peninsula in northwest Wales is packed with natural beauty, rich cultural heritage and beaches.
Things to do in Abersoch
Surrounded by the sparkling clear waters of the Irish Sea on one side and Cardigan Bay on the other, this area of Wales is a perfect alternative for a holiday abroad, where you’ll find plenty of activities, accommodation and indie restaurants and cafes.
There are remains of Iron Age forts and islands to discover, sweeping stretches of sandy beaches and plenty of cute coastal villages and historic sites to visit.
Known as the ‘Welsh Riviera,’ Abersoch, on the southern part of the Llŷn, is widely known for its sandy beaches, internationally recognised sailing waters, and a small high street filled with trendy bars, restaurants, big brands, and independent shops.
This coastal bolthole is also renowned for its water sports, especially paddleboarding. If you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of resident dolphins slicing through the clear waters.
The sheltered bay provides perfect conditions for both beginners and experienced paddleboarders, and the village hosts several events and competitions throughout the year, attracting enthusiasts from all over the UK.
You can book a SUP session at Abersoch Watersports, where expert instructors will guide you around the beautiful coastline, pointing out marine life and coastal features. Even if you’re new to paddleboarding you can learn to paddleboard with their ISA-qualified instructors using the top-of-the-range Red Paddle Co paddleboards. You’ll be coached in the bay and learn correct paddle techniques to build confidence and develop your SUP skills so you can get out of the water and start looking for dolphins.
Beautiful beaches
One of the town’s other main draws is the large sandy beach, which the AA previously named one of the ‘best seaside destinations’, saying: “The top place goes to this sandy beach, which is dog-friendly and also manned by lifeguards. There are two nearby tourist attractions: the Porth y Swnt Interpretation Centre and Nant Gwrtheyrn, which is home to the National Welsh Language and Heritage Centre.”
Nearby is Harbour Beach, a strip of sand on the River Soch between the harbour and Warren Beach. If you fancy a bit of a challenge, Porth Ceiriad is a secluded beach that can be tricky to find. Despite being near the popular Abersoch, this idyllic spot remains less frequented, a fact that regulars undoubtedly appreciate. Its deceptive closeness to Abersoch and the enveloping cliffs add to the mystery of finding this secluded beach.
The adventure of discovering Porth Ceiriad is well-known locally. It earned the moniker of the “Porth Ceiriad Mystery Tour” because of the curious case of disappearing tourists led astray by unreliable Satnav directions and confounding maps.
Don’t miss the ice cream
After exploring Abersoch’s dreamy beaches and coastline, make sure to go for ice cream at Two Islands, a small-batch ice cream parlour that’s just been named one of the best places for ice cream in Wales.
Locals and tourists have been raving about this ice cream spot since it opened in 2018. The small-batch ice cream parlour makes the ice cream on-site using local and natural ingredients, including Welsh free-range eggs and organic and fair-trade produce from a co-op that sets the standard for fair and equal working conditions.
Inspired by their trip to parlours on the west coast of the USA, the small business aims to create rich textures and original flavours using the best produce with a Welsh twist. For the latest restaurant news and reviews, sign up to our food and drink newsletter here.
Their small but ever-changing menu focuses on seasonality, but you will always find their unique take on a few of the classics. Salted Coffee is a favourite Two Islands Flavour, with a distinctive blend of Coaltown espresso and HALEN MôN sea salt, while marscapone and blackcurrant are standout choices when they grace the menu.
Wales’ players will assemble at their training base on the outskirts of Cardiff on Monday, 27 October.
New head coach Steve Tandy will then begin his tenure with a match against Argentina on Sunday, 9 November, with Tests against Japan, New Zealand and South Africa to follow.
Those fixtures, which will be broadcast live on BBC Radio Wales and Radio Cymru, represent a formidable first assignment for ex-Scotland defence coach Tandy.
He takes over a Wales side ranked 12th in the world and one that only broke an 18-match international losing sequence by beating Japan in Kobe in July.
“It’s been really exciting going through the whole process and realising how many good players we’ve got,” said Tandy.
“There’s a really good mix of some young guys coming in, mixed with some experience as well. But the overall feeling is really exciting and I can’t wait to get the boys into camp on Monday.
“It’s a new time and there are some new faces in and around the playing group as well.”
Carre has started the season strongly with Saracens, but was ineligible under Welsh Rugby Union (WRU) selection policy because he has 20 caps, five short of the required number for those playing for clubs outside Wales.
But in its statement confirming the squad, the WRU said Carre had been “included following confirmation by the Professional Rugby Board that he is eligible for Wales selection”.
Second rows Adam Beard and Dafydd Jenkins are back having missed the two-Test series in Japan over the summer because of being given a break and elective surgery respectively.
There are also returns for Jacob Beetham, Rhys Davies, Rio Dyer, Jarrod Evans, Joe Hawkins, Max Llewellyn and Nick Tompkins.
The village of Tintern in Monmouthshire, Wales, is a traveller favourite and is known for the majestic ruined abbey that sits in the centre of the village
Ruins of Tintern Abbey
Wales is renowned for its picturesque villages and breathtaking landscapes, but there’s one Welsh village that stands out from the rest.
Tintern, nestled in the heart of the stunning Wye Valley and hugging the west bank of the River Wye in Monmouthshire, is a sight to behold. The village is famed for its awe-inspiring ruined abbey, which sits majestically at its centre, making it a favourite among travellers.
The modern-day Tintern we see today is the result of two historically rich villages merging – Chapel Hill, forming the southern end, and Tintern Parva, making up the northern end. Since 1976, it has been a designated Conservation Area and underwent a name change in 2022 from Tintern to Wye Valley, along with some boundary alterations.
Despite its small size, Tintern holds immense historical significance. The star attraction is undoubtedly Tintern Abbey, a shining beacon in the celebrated Wye Valley.
Its stunning gothic architecture, complete with pointed arches, lancet windows, and ribbed vaults, leaves many visitors awestruck at first sight. Over the centuries, the magnificent ruins of this Cistercian monastery have enchanted visitors and inspired countless travellers, reports Wales Online.
Tintern, a village steeped in history and industrial heritage, has made its mark on the world in several significant ways. The Abbey Forge, nestled within this quaint village, is renowned as the birthplace of British brass production and was instrumental in pioneering wire manufacturing on an industrial scale.
Notably, it was here at Tintern’s Abbey Forge that the first transatlantic cable was crafted.
Today, Tintern serves as a popular destination for walkers and cycling enthusiasts, with numerous long-distance trails and circular routes either starting or passing through the village. A vast network of local footpaths crisscrosses the area, intersecting with two major long-distance paths: the Wye Valley Walk on the Welsh side and Offa’s Dyke path on the English side.
The charming St Mary the Virgin chapel on Chapel Hill is a favourite amongst tourists, and the village also boasts the award-winning Parva Farm Vineyard. Another must-visit spot in Tintern is the medieval church of St Michael in Tintern Parva.
Adding to the village’s attractions is the Tintern railway station, located just a mile’s walk above Tintern. Although passenger services ceased in 1959, the station remains operational as a bustling tourist centre.
As a dog-friendly village, visitors are welcome to bring their furry friends along when visiting any of Tintern’s numerous pubs and cafes, where they’re guaranteed a warm reception.
Getting to the village is straightforward, with the number 69 Wye Valley bus providing hourly services from both Monmouth and Chepstow.
Tintern Abbey
By the 18th century, Tintern Abbey had already become a must-see attraction as part of the Wye Tour along the river – and for good reason.
Most notably, Tintern Abbey inspired poems by literary giants such as William Wordsworth and Alfred Lord Tennyson, and was even the subject of breathtaking paintings by artist JMW Turner.
Tintern Abbey was first established on May 9, 1131, during the reign of King Henry I, by Walter de Clare alongside the river. The abbey was the second Cistercian foundation in Britain (following Waverley Abbey) and the first in Wales.
Initially, the abbey was simply a complex of timber buildings. However, between 1270 and 1301, it underwent reconstruction and was completely rebuilt.
The current remains at Tintern Abbey are a mix of architectural works spanning several centuries and its present-day remnants reflect this diverse architectural history. Once it was rebuilt, around four hundred monks, who originally came from a daughter house of Cîteaux in France, lived in the complex.
For four centuries, Tintern Abbey was a powerhouse in the local economy, with its land divided into farming units or granges. The locals worked the land and served the abbey and its many visitors, making it an integral part of Tintern village’s history and culture.
However, the abbey ceased operations following the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536. In a more recent development, Cadw took over the management of Tintern Abbey in 1984.
By the late 18th century, tourism had begun to flourish in the Wye Valley, with many visitors travelling along the river to see the abbey and other scenic spots in the famous region. The poet William Wordsworth was one such visitor in 1798, and he wrote the well-known Lines Written a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey during his visit.
The construction of the turnpike road (now known as the A466) through the valley in 1829, followed by the arrival of the Wye Valley Railway in the 1870s, led to a significant increase in visitor numbers. This established tourism as the bedrock of Tintern’s economy, a legacy that continues to this day.
Today, Tintern Abbey attracts approximately 70,000 visitors each year, who travel from near and far to marvel at the stunning beauty of the historic abbey.
In all human endeavours undertaken within Britiain’s isles, the provision of tea and cake is the most vital consideration. When a walker or cyclist delivers the damning judgment “there’s no decent caff” to a group of friends, the ghastly silence is followed by everyone crossing the accursed region off their map. The sheer importance of this staple dietary ingredient is obvious from our island geography: Dundee, Eccles, Bakewell, Chelsea …
So it was with some trepidation that I set out to walk around the Llŷn peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, on part of what is called the Seafood Trail. I mean, I love a lobster, but what about the fruit scones? Bangor University’s school of ocean sciences has produced a map of seafood producers and outlets to encourage hikers as they stride along the coastal path. Fine, but it’s the late afternoon sugar lull that I worry about.
We start on the north coast in Nefyn, a place that boasts an excellent brewery and a good beach with one of the most Instagrammed pubs in Wales, the Tŷ Coch Inn. Me and my friend Andy are both nervously scanning the weather apps as the forecast is stormy. The plan is to walk and camp, but only after a gentle start in the Nanhoron Arms hotel. This proves doubly beneficial as the dinner includes a delicious Anglesey sea bass and, next morning, we can stay dry while watching a barrage of lashing rain come down. We have each brought a tent, but neither item has been tested at this level of downpour.
I am already a convert to the Welsh Coast Path, one of the finest walks in the world, but I have never done this particular section. Immediately, we are off to a great start: the rain stops and we cross Nefyn golf ccourse and settle into a rhythm of cliff and cove. In one sheltered spot, a few Atlantic grey seals play in the shallows while the older ones snooze on the beach. A kestrel hovers overhead and butterflies skip around a few late flowers. In May this would be a floral bonanza, but now we have blackberries to keep us going.
Looking down onto the Tŷ Coch Inn, Nefyn under stormy skies. Photograph: Loop Images/Alamy
Then, with lunchtime approaching, we start scanning ahead and almost immediately we see Cwt Tatws. The translation is roughly the Potato Shed but the name belies the true magnificence of this cafe, all the more splendid for its ideal location close to a beautiful stretch of sandy beach in Towyn. A rich selection of sandwiches, salads, pies and, of course, cakes, is augmented by cosy seating, a vintage clothing section and a range of Welsh products. Neither of us, unfortunately, has space in our rucksacks for a sack of sea salt or a bottle of Welsh whisky. However, we do manage an extra slice of coffee and walnut sponge before heading off.
After 3 miles (5km), we drop down on to a sandy beach at low tide and weave through a set of sentinel rocks. This long lovely stretch, Traeth Penllech, is a real gem, leading us up to the first campsite at Moel-y-Berth. Run by Mike and Joanna Smith, this is the kind of place people return to every year. There is a shop and a handy cafe for breakfast where, the next morning, we sit and watch another rampaging storm come blasting through. When we emerge, however, the sun is out again.
Lobster lunch at Top Cat Caffi. Photograph: Kevin Rushby
Our luck holds all day, but by midafternoon a crisis is looming. Without tea and cake, I reckon, I’ve only got a few miles left in my legs. But then at Porthor’s Whistling Sands beach, Caffi Porthor pops up, another gem, serving a vast range of delicious homemade cakes, including a Welsh stalwart, Bara brith. If you’re not familiar with this heavenly manna, it’s a fruit cake made with tea and spices. And Caffi Porthor makes the best I’ve ever tasted. Andy, foolishly, turns it down and the result, three miles later, is that he runs out of steam, taking a short cut across the headland to Dwyros, our second campsite. Meanwhile, powered by tea and cake, I stride on for a further seven miles around what is the best section so far: the actual tip of the Llŷn peninsula. The spectacular cliffs offer a fine view of the tidal race between the headland and Bardsey Island. On a day like this one, when the wind is gusting powerfully and the current is running at about four metres per second, it’s a fearsome sight.
Aberdaron, just around the corner, is a lovely village with an excellent fish and chip shop, Sblash, and a fine pub, The Ship, a good spot to try out a few words of Welsh as that’s the main language here, as on most of the Llyn.
Unfortunately, the following morning my own language skills fail. When I ask some teenage boys for the path to Rhiw, the next village, I’m met with sniggers. Apparently I’m asking for sex.
Kevin Rushby takes in an Irish Sea view. Photograph: Andy Pietrasik
The seafood, however, has really kicked in now. At Rhiw I meet Brett and Nia who harvest crab and lobster for their Top Cat Caffi where we eat a lobster salad lunch. However, the weather is deteriorating fast so we can’t get out to help with the day’s catch, something Brett encourages visitors to do. That evening, camped at Rhydolion farm, we stagger an extra mile to the pretty inland village of Llanengan and eat bowls of delicious mussels at the Sun Inn.
The final day is a bracing stomp across surfers’ beach, Hell’s Mouth, a notorious shipwreck spot in the past, then around Mynydd Cilan headland to Abersoch where there’s plenty of cafes to hide from the storm. The seafood has been great, but it’s the memories of tea and cakes that I will treasure.
The eight uncapped players in the Wales squad are Mia Ross, Annie Wilding, Gwen Zimmerman, Scarlett Hill and Amy Richardson, who get their first call-ups, while Poppy Soper, Teagan Scarlett and Tianna Teisar are hoping to make their Wales debuts having been involved with previous squads.
Charlton Athletic midfielder Ross, who has played for England at under-19 and under-23 level, might have played for Wales already were it not for injury.
“Mia, firstly, is a fantastic person. I’ve been in communication with Mia pretty much since I got the job. I’ve been watching her,” said Wilkinson.
“I think she’s got a vision and an understanding of space that’s always really interested me and intrigued me, and it’s a big decision to choose a nationality to play for.
Wilkinson added both player and coach had taken their time and had lots of good conversations before commiting.
“Equally no-one will come into this squad if they’re not the right person for this squad. So yes, she was part of the England pathway, but there’s a type of person that I know can fit in well with this Welsh team,” the head coach explained.
“We have to keep our Welsh heritage, our Welsh understanding strong, that connection and passion for the flag, for the badge, has to be paramount. If that person that I’m looking at doesn’t have that, then I stop recruiting them.
“And from the beginning, Mia’s been very clear that this was something she was interested in, that she felt very strongly about, and we haven’t forced or pushed those conversations, it’s happened quite naturally, and she then got injured.
“So we gave her space and now she’s back playing well, and we’re really looking forward to having her for the first time in with the group.”
I love pretty market towns, historic buildings, boutique shops and cosy pubs — so do lots of other people
Portia Jones Senior Journalist and Steffan Rhys Deputy Content Hub Director
10:39, 20 Oct 2025
I skipped the Cotswolds for a nearby beauty spot which is best this time of year(Image: Portia Jones )
I’m a market town girl at heart. I adore cute villages with historic buildings, meandering rivers, boutique shops, and cosy pubs. The Cotswolds are stunning – but almost year-round their honey-coloured villages, including Bourton-on-the-Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, and Lower Slaughter, are packed with coachloads of snap-happy tourists.
“This kind of visitor has little interest in heritage, culture, or nature,” councillor Jon Wareing told the BBC. “They’re the ultimate hit-and-run tourist.”
So, while the Cotswolds may be Instagram-famous, I found a quieter, prettier escape. And it didn’t require elbowing my way past twirling huns living their best life in selfies. Instead, I went to The Wye Valley and the Forest of Dean, which offer a tranquil and picturesque alternative to the Cotswolds.
Bordering England and Wales this area of outstanding natural beauty features similar rolling countryside, attractive market towns, and hiking trails but with fewer crowds. It’s especially beautiful in the autumn for ‘leaf-peeping’ when the trees show off a dazzling array of colour.
The market towns and villages of the Wye Valley also offer a less crowded alternative to the busy Cotswolds blending historical buildings, local culture, and proper pubs. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here.
Market towns
One of my favourites is Chepstow. Known as the “gateway to Wales” it gets its name from the Old English ‘chepe stowe’ or ‘market place’. The name still fits. Chepstow keeps its historic feel with cobbled streets and a strong line-up of independent shops, cafés, restaurants, and pubs.
One of the big draws here is the surprising range of walking trails with four long-distance walks converging on Chepstow. The Wye Valley Walk and Offa’s Dyke head north on either side of the River Wye offering hikers a circular loop between Chepstow and Monmouth.
Dreamy views of romantic ruins
Strolls around Tintern offer dreamy views of the romantic ruins of Tintern Abbey, especially from the Devil’s Pulpit viewpoint. Walks along the Angidy Valley reward history lovers with the valley’s industrial heritage.
A gentle riverside path from St Michael’s Church to Tintern Old Station and the old railway line to Brockweir offers an easy, family-friendly amble.
If you fancy a flutter Chepstow’s got you covered. The town’s racecourse is a huge deal in the horseracing world and home to the Coral Welsh Grand National. It’s been hosting race days since the late 1800s and still draws a lively crowd whether you’re a seasoned punter or just there for the buzz and fancy hats.
And if horses aren’t your thing you can swap the saddle for a nine-iron. Just outside town the St Pierre Marriott Hotel and Country Club boasts one of the most scenic golf courses in the country.
Independent shops
Over the border Ross-on-Wye is another charming town. Its 17th-century Market House now houses Made in Ross, an artisan cooperative that showcases local crafts. The town’s streets feature a mix of independent shops, antique stores, cosy coffee houses, and pubs such as The Man of Ross Inn.
At the confluence of the Rivers Wye and Monnow, Monmouth has a rich history with landmarks like the 18th-century Shire Hall, which is now a museum. The town’s vibrant streets are lined with boutiques, cafés, and historic pubs.
Over in England the market towns in the Cotswolds, such as Cirencester, Stow-on-the-Wold, and Chipping Campden, are equally charming but suffer from significant overcrowding during peak tourist seasons.
Cirencester, known as the “Capital of the Cotswolds,” features a lively market, Roman history, and a variety of shops and cafés. Stow-on-the-Wold, with its historic market square and antique shops, often experiences heavy tourist traffic making it less serene.
Chipping Campden, famous for its beautiful High Street lined with historic buildings, also faces similar issues with overcrowding and limited parking.
Historical sites
Symonds Yat can be less crowded and is known for its hand-pulled ferries and impressive views from Symonds Yat Rock. It is perfect for nature lovers and outdoor activities like hiking and canoeing. The Wye Valley is rich in historical sites that rival those in the Cotswolds. Goodrich Castle and Tintern Abbey are standout landmarks.
Exploring on foot can help you discover the industrial and historical heritage in the Wye Valley ranging from the Iron Age construction of hillforts to the Romans who came, saw, and conquered the Wye and the building of Offa’s Dyke – the longest archaeological ‘Keep Out’ sign in Britain.
For history lovers the tiny town of Tintern is also worth a visit. It is home to one of Wales’ greatest monastic ruins, Tintern Abbey, which is found on the banks of the River Wye and was only the second Cistercian foundation to be built in Britain.
It was founded in 1131 by Cistercian monks and has had a long history including the dissolution of the monasteries, which led to the abbey slowly turning into a majestic ruin. Today you can visit this important heritage site in Wales and marvel at the scale of the roofless abbey and the British Gothic architecture. Tickets can be bought on arrival at the visitor centre and there is also a selection of guidebooks that can help you learn more about this beautiful abbey.
Chepstow Castle is another must-visit. It is Wales’ oldest surviving post-Roman castle dating back to 1067. This beautifully-preserved Welsh castle proudly stands atop a limestone cliff above the River Wye. For more than six centuries Chepstow was home to some of the wealthiest and most powerful men of the medieval and Tudor ages.
Earl William Fitz Osbern, a close friend of William the Conqueror, started the building in 1067, making it one of the first Norman strongholds in Wales. In turn William Marshal (Earl of Pembroke), Roger Bigod (Earl of Norfolk), and Charles Somerset (Earl of Worcester) all made their mark before the castle declined after the Civil War.
The oldest building is the Norman great tower but construction continued well into the 17th century as stronger, musket-friendly parapets replaced medieval battlements.
Today visitors can learn more about this historic site that Cadw now manages by visiting this impressive castle on a day trip or booking one of their special events. The site has a range of facilities including a gift shop, bike access, and parking.
Meandering river
Along with pretty towns and history one of the area’s biggest draws is the flowing River Wye. This meandering river begins in Plynlimon in mid-Wales and flows south, becoming part of Wales and England’s border and eventually meeting the Severn.
The River Wye is a long and very accessible river with plenty of paddle spots and waterside pubs. Canoeing through the Wye Valley offers a unique way to explore its scenic villages and countryside – an experience you can’t replicate in the Cotswolds.
Several outdoor companies in the area offer guided canoe and paddleboard trips down the River Wye. Many trips include camping or visiting riverside villages.
You can also hire a canoe and captain your own vessel on a river pub crawl or camping expedition. Waterside pubs along the River Wye are welcome rest spots if you’re paddling up the river on an epic canoe or kayak trip. The Boat Inn and the Anchor Inn offer local ales and river views.
Eating, drinking and sleeping
One of the best spots for a pint by the water is the Saracens Head Inn. This historic riverside inn has stood for centuries in its spectacular position on the east bank of the River Wye where the river flows into a steep wooded gorge.
Here you’ll find rooms as well as award-winning food and local ales. Their flagstone-floored bar and rustic pine tables provide a traditional pub feel as you sip on a pint of local real ale.
If you prefer dry land there are many ambitious hiking routes for a scenic stomp and shorter walking trails can help you discover the beauty of the Wye Valley on foot.
If you want a longer walk in this area opt for the Wye Valley Walk – a long-distance national trail that follows the course of the River Wye.
You can choose various sections of the trail for day hikes and weekend hikes or opt for a full walking holiday and do the lot. One of the best day hikes on the Wye Valley Walk is the Chepstow to Tintern Abbey section.
It’s a scenic five-mile walk that takes you up ancient stone steps and through ethereal forest paths. There are plenty of photo and picnic spots along the way and you’ll also find some viewing points where you can gaze at the winding River Wye.
Autumn is the best time to attempt this trail: when the leaves change their colours it becomes one of the prettiest hiking trails in the UK. Pack a picnic to round out the countryside experience.
Food-wise you’ll be spoiled for choice in the Wye Valley with plenty of cafés and restaurants to rival the swanky Cotswolds. The area is a surprising gastro hotspot and there is a thriving dining and foodie scene to be discovered.
You can criss-cross seamlessly from Wales into England and easily explore the well-heeled area and its many restaurants, cafés, and producers.
Take a gastro journey through the valley and you’ll find locally-raised lamb, smoked eel, craft ales, and honey-infused mead. Local breweries include the small microbrewery Lydbrook Valley Brewing Company, which produces a 4.2% IPA, and the Wye Valley Brewery, which makes a decent range of craft ales.
The Wye Valley even has its own vineyard, White Castle, where visitors can buy high-quality Welsh wines and take a tour.
Over in Chepstow the Beaufort Hotel’s award-winning restaurant offers guests a fabulous à la carte menu featuring traditional British and international dishes using Wye Valley and Welsh produce where possible.
Tell me Wine is a wine merchant and French bistro lounge that offers delicious French dishes, wine tastings, and live music events. Family-owned Stone Rock Lodge serves Wales’ best pizza and you can get a banging Sunday lunch at St Pierre.
With one Michelin green star and four AA rosettes dining at the Whitebrook is a must for serious foodies. Fresh local ingredients and foraged findings from the valley are at the heart of the food at this highly-acclaimed restaurant with rooms.
Set in five acres of landscaped surroundings chef Chris Harrod draws culinary inspiration from his bountiful surroundings.
You can expect hand-foraged garlic, bittercress, wild onion, and hogweed from the valley, which connect diners to the immediate locale and enrich the carefully crafted menu.
Harrod has a knack for turning locally-foraged ingredients into extraordinary creations. His dedication to using the best of the region’s offerings earned The Whitebrook a Michelin star, a Michelin green star, and four AA Rosettes. It’s regularly included in the Top 50 list of restaurants in the UK and deservedly so.
The seasonal tasting menu is a culinary journey showcasing the best of the season with expertly chosen wine pairings of local Welsh and English wines including several from Monmouthshire-based White Castle Vineyard. Each small but perfectly-executed course explores the region’s rich flavours presented with precision and artistry.
Typical plates include Orkney scallops, Huntsham Farm Ryeland hogget with young leek, turnip, and ramsons, and day boat hake with hen of the wood, parsley root, pickled pine, mushrooms, sauce, and wild chervil.
If you’re looking to stay longer in the area the Wye Valley has an impressive range of swish properties, guest houses, and hotels to suit your travel style and budget.
Airbnb and Booking.com offer unique stays in the Wye Valley with everything from bougie guest houses and cosy holiday cabins to luxury glamping and yurts.
One of my favourite places to stay is the charming Tudor Farmhouse. This boutique hotel is a former working farm that has been stylishly converted into a country getaway with rooms, cottages, and suites. Prices depend on the type of room booked.
Tandy has returned to Wales after leaving in 2018 at the end of a six-year stint as Ospreys head coach.
He took up a defence coach position with the Waratahs in Sydney before moving on to Scotland in 2019.
Tandy also spent a summer with the British and Irish Lions in 2021 as part of Warren Gatland’s backroom staff.
In July Tandy opted to return home to Wales and has already met up with some familiar faces in his new role, such as former Ospreys team-mate and current Dragons boss Filo Tiatia.
“I can only speak highly of Tandy, he’s a beautiful man,” said Tiatia, who played with the 45-year-old former flanker for five years.
“He’s a very uplifting coach, very caring, but also very demanding when he needs to be.
“He can only be good for Wales and I wish him all the best with all this success. He’s got four tough Tests, they will need support.”
Tiatia believes Tandy’s decision to move around to develop his coaching skills will stand him in good stead.
“He’s a big learner,” added Tiatia. “He’s done a lot in a short space of time. He wants to keep improving but also improve the people who he is around.
“You look at Steve’s journey as the Ospreys coach, he got moved on, there was an opportunity in Australia and he took himself out of his comfort zone.
“He moved to Scotland and embraced the challenge there also, where he did a great job as a defence coach.”
The delightful village of Solva in Pembrokeshire is less than a 10 minute drive away from the well-visited St Davids and is a must-visit for anyone in the area
Solva is such a beautiful place(Image: Ashley / Getty)
Pembrokeshire, a county brimming with scenic spots from Narberth to Fishguard and St Davids, also boasts a charming coastal village that’s just as delightful but half as crowded.
The charming village of Solva is a mere 10-minute drive from the popular St Davids in Pembrokeshire. It has earned its place on many lists, being named among some of the best villages in the UK.
With tranquil views, quaint shops and eateries, it’s the perfect spot for a day trip or weekend getaway.
There’s plenty to take in when you visit Solva, but it’s undeniable that the real gem is their picture-perfect harbour. Framed by lush, rolling hills dotted with colourful cottages and clear waters speckled with sailing boats, the harbour is a sight for sore eyes.
At low tide, the harbour is completely dry, save for a small stream running down the middle, creating the ideal spot for catching crabs, fish and shrimp. There are ample rock pools and caves around Solva for the little explorers in your group to discover on a warm day, reports Wales Online.
One pleased visitor took to TripAdvisor to say: “This place is heaven on earth! Oh my! It’s so beautiful. Visited at high and low tide, and both were stunning in different ways.”
Another wrote: “Solva is lovely, from the brightly painted cottages to the estuary and harbour and to the pub, it’s picture perfect. A lovely place to visit in a beautiful part of Wales.”
Outside of its sweeping landscape and dreamy seashores, Solva is home to a lovely array of independent shops, galleries and traditional pubs. A notable place to catch a glimpse of in the village is the Raul Speek Gallery, where art admirers can congregate and enjoy local talent. The owners of the gallery are well known amongst locals and visitors alike for seemingly bringing some new colour to a historic building.
Beyond its stunning scenery and picturesque coastline, Solva boasts a charming selection of independent retailers, art spaces and traditional watering holes.
One standout attraction in the village is the Raul Speek Gallery, where art enthusiasts can gather and appreciate work from talented local artists.
The gallery’s proprietors have become familiar faces to both residents and tourists for apparently injecting fresh vibrancy into a building steeped in history.
One review reads: “Visiting Solva we were delighted to find Raul’s gallery in an old chapel. Truly original and well conceived art with powerful messages – this was backed up in a conversation with Raul who is intelligent, witty and thoughtful. This gallery is the gem of a lovely village.”
For high-quality keepsakes and artisan products, Window On Wales receives particular praise as one of the area’s must-visit destinations, according to TripAdvisor.
Ideal for having a browse and securing a little piece of Solva to take away, this dual-cottage shop represents just one of numerous cherished boutique establishments dotted around the locale.
Describing the village, The Telegraph said: “With its flower-draped, stone cottages in bright ice-cream pastels and deep, fjord-like harbour where boats gaily bob, you’ll be sorely tempted to jack in the day job and move to the coast pronto.”
The quaint village of Solva, nestled in a colourful corner of Wales, is a hub of community spirit and annual events. From their summer regatta to the newly introduced family festival, and even the much-loved yearly duck race, charity and community are at the heart of this charming locale.
The tranquillity that visitors experience as they meander through Solva is testament to its warm and welcoming atmosphere.
I’d come for the sunrise but I quickly discovered three things that can ruin even the most beautiful moment
There’s nearly always a queue for a selfie at this remarkable beauty spot(Image: Portia Jones )
It was just gone 5am when I arrived very tired and ready to tackle a scenic sunrise hike at one of the UK’s most popular peaks. But looking around, it appeared I wasn’t the only one who had this marvellous idea — despite the time, the car park was starting to fill up.
I could make out the faint glow of iPhones as early risers emerged from cars, clutching coffee and camera tripods, shivering in the dark. From here, the route to the summit of Pen y Fan, the highest peak in south Wales, is one of the most straightforward ways to the summit and is often described by locals as a “motorway”, so it shouldn’t have been a huge surprise to find myself surrounded by other keen walkers.
Pen y Fan rises 886 metres (2,907 ft) above a landscape of rolling high hills. It’s one of several flat-topped summits in the area, and the dramatic peak was once a mountain for the committed: avid hikers, the British Army on training exercises and reluctant school kids dragged up for the Duke of Edinburgh’s Award. These days, it attracts anyone with a phone and a sunrise, with viral social media clips turning the picturesque summit into a must-visit backdrop for selfies.
Interest in the UK’s beauty spots has surged since Covid-19 restrictions began in 2020, when an hour’s exercise was a brief escape from lockdown life. In recent years, reports of national parks, beaches, and hiking trails being overrun with crowds, litter, and queues have become almost routine as more people head for the hills, clutching their smartphones.
We set off from the car park in the dark, joining the steady stream of hikers snaking up the trail. The ‘motorway’ path was well-trodden and wide enough in parts to accommodate the crowd without too much jostling. My companions, seasoned hikers with well-worn gear, moved with practised efficiency, while I kept pace, observing the scene unfolding around us.
The trail was a mix of gravel and uneven stone, occasionally slick with dew, and the dawn light had not yet hit the high, rolling green hills, verdant valleys, and grassy mountain plateaus.
Headlamps and iPhone lights dotted the landscape like fireflies, and it was hard not to slow down and take in the absurdity of what felt like hundreds of us all crawling up the same path, multiple dogs running loose, phones flickering, and me, trying not to become part of someone’s Instagram Live.
As we crested the final rise, the line of hikers slowed to a crawl, everyone funnelling toward the summit marker. The Pen y Fan cairn, a large pile of stones that has stood since the Bronze Age, marked with a National Trust plaque and topped by a trig point, was already commanding attention. People had formed an orderly queue, patiently waiting for their turn to stand beside it for a photo.
Even in the soft pre-dawn light, it looked like a scene from a theme park: polite shuffling, polite muttering, everyone clutching phones and cameras, some even doing little TikTok dances.
Watching the strange scene, it was hard not to think about the meteoric rise of ‘TikTok travel’, the phenomenon of visiting somewhere not to discover it, but to make the place a backdrop for your own carefully choreographed content.
Don’t get me wrong: I love a good selfie. But queuing for a picture, or orchestrating an hour-long photoshoot solely for social media, is not something I have patience for.
And yet, despite the absurdity of it all, the sunrise we had come to see was spectacular. The first golden rays of light struck the ridges, catching the Llyn Cwm Llwch lake in a soft, golden glow and providing expansive 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside, including the Black Mountains, Carmarthenshire Fans, and the Cambrian Mountains to the north and west.
A thin mist lingered in the valleys below, and a “dragon’s breath” cloud inversion spread across the landscape, curling around the peaks like smoke and catching the sun’s pink-and-gold light. Even the most devoted TikTokkers paused for a moment just long enough to gape at the extraordinary panorama.
The way the glacier-carved peaks glowed, the soft light spilling over the valleys, and the atmospheric ‘Dragon’s breath’ are why Pen y Fan draws so many, why we brave the crowds, and why, inevitably, you find yourself taking a quick selfie, trying to preserve the moment without letting it slip away.
I’d come for the sunrise, but I quickly discovered three things that can ruin even the most epic mountain moment: crowds, dogs running wild off lead, and litter. None of them is enough to spoil Pen y Fan entirely, but together, they’re a reminder that our growing love for the outdoors can have unintended consequences.
I’m also self-aware enough to know I’m part of the problem. I came for the same thing as everyone else, a photogenic sunrise shared with my hiking pals.
I could have chosen one of the many quieter peaks or valleys scattered across Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) — there’s no shortage of them. But here I am, trudging up the most popular route with everyone else. The lure of dawn light is hard to resist, even when you know exactly how crowded it’s going to be.
As I sipped my coffee and surveyed the summit, it was impossible to ignore the consequences of Pen y Fan’s popularity. The cairn, once a quiet marker of the highest point in south Wales, had become a pivot point for human activity.
Every so often, discarded rubbish or a stray dog poo bag would catch your eye, small but persistent reminders of the mountain’s rising footfall.
Even the Central Beacons Mountain Rescue Team has had to intervene, “downing tools” during training sessions in the National Park to clear up litter, including disposable barbecues, something they described on social media as increasingly common and, heartbreakingly, unnecessary.
Another complication was dogs off-lead. Bounding freely, they sometimes disappeared from view entirely, prompting panicked calls from their owners and, presumably, even more posts in local hiking Facebook groups about missing pets.
On a slope like Pen y Fan, it’s a worry: not just for the dogs (which I love to be clear) but also for wildlife and the growing problem of erosion and mess along the most popular paths.
For all the talk of crowds and chaos and poor pet management, though, I know most people who come here care deeply about the mountains.
I’m a member of enough hiking groups to see how much affection there is for these astonishing landscapes. Most walkers are respectful; they don’t drop litter, keep dogs close, and tread carefully. A small minority spoil it with blaring music, buzzing drones, or abandoned dog poo bags. Perhaps that’s why this behaviour feels so jarring; it isn’t the norm.
What’s needed isn’t less enthusiasm, but more awareness. Simple, consistent reminders of how to “leave no trace,” and a bit of encouragement to explore beyond the same three or four photogenic peaks, might go further than any warning sign ever could.
Of course, awareness is easier to preach than practise when the sunrise forecast looks promising, and so, here I am. It turns out that it’s easy to grumble about the crowds until you realise that you’re one of them. And maybe that’s the paradox of places like Pen y Fan, they’re loved to the point of being over-loved.
