Wales

It’s somewhere I keep returning to and never get tired of – in fact, I think it’s one of the loveliest market towns

Regular readers of journalist Portia Jones will be well aware of her unabashed affection for Welsh market towns. A mix of authentic pubs, independent retailers, and eccentric cafes offering local fare and quality coffee is Portia’s idea of bliss.

However, one stands out above the rest and she has finally settled on her favourite. Portia explains why…

I’ve visited a considerable number of market towns throughout Wales, and I’m often asked which one tops my list. It’s a tough question given the country is practically brimming with charm, but after much contemplation, mostly undertaken in pubs, I have an answer.

Rhayader. Always Rhayader. The place I find myself returning to time and again, and the one I rave about to anyone unfortunate enough to ask for recommendations. I could talk about it for hours!

Situated at the crossroads in mid-Wales, this is a vastly underappreciated gem that, despite its wealth of attractions, doesn’t receive the recognition it deserves, reports Wales Online.

Boasting the stunning dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys, I believe Rhayader ranks among the finest market towns in Wales and merits a lengthy visit when journeying along the A470.

This community-centric market town serves as an ideal base for biking, hiking, wildlife spotting, or simply unwinding with friends in traditional pubs.

Rhayader has long functioned as a mid-Wales hub for weary travellers, acting as a stopover for drovers and those journeying the lengthy route from London to Aberystwyth.

Today, it’s recognised as the entrance to the Elan Valley and is situated just outside the expansive estate. It serves as a handy base with numerous independent shops, cafes, and pubs, also branding itself as the ‘outdoors capital of Wales’.

In terms of pubs, you’ll be spoilt for choice in Rhayader, boasting an impressive number of quality establishments for a relatively small town, which is one of the many reasons it tops my list of market towns.

For a hearty Sunday lunch, make your way to The Crown for generous helpings of meat, vegetables, and Yorkshire pudding. It’s a Sunday roast just like mum used to make – no-nonsense, satisfying, and drenched in gravy.

You certainly won’t leave feeling peckish. The Historic Triangle, a beautiful 16th-century drover’s inn located a brief walk away in Cwmdauddwr, offers a cosy fire, real cask ales on tap, and homemade food featuring several pub favourites.

The Lamb and Flag is another great spot for ales, traditional bar meals, and Sunday carveries, while the vibrant green Elan Hotel’s bar boasts a decent selection of beverages.

Pop into The Lost Arc for lunch and coffee at this quirky community cafe. Be sure to try my favourite – a delicious Welsh rarebit consisting of toasted bread covered in warm mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a touch of laverbread and mustard.

It’s truly divine, and I challenge you to find a better one in Wales. If you do, let me know – I’m always on the hunt for a top-notch rarebit. In addition to a god-tier Welsh classic, they also offer coffee, cakes, light lunches, and a variety of vegan options.

By evening, this trendy spot morphs into a live music venue, featuring up-and-coming acts and hosting popular pizza nights.

The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a charming, family-run tea room and cake shop that provides a delightful setting for homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Don’t miss their irresistibly tasty chicken curry, made from a family recipe.

For a top-notch caffeine hit in Rhayader, make a beeline for Narrative Coffee, the fresh face on the high street, already causing a stir and garnering glowing reviews.

This chic little place recently reached the finals of the UK Coffee Masters in London, an impressive achievement, and the team is thrilled to be acknowledged as one of Wales’ premier spots for speciality coffee.

Rhayader is not only home to pubs but also a lovely destination for shopping at independent and boutique stores. Along the main thoroughfare, you’ll discover a compact shopping area where you can peruse a range of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and local souvenirs.

One of the more unique shopping experiences here is Hafod Hardware – a vintage, family-run hardware store that has been serving customers since 1895.

In addition to the usual DIY items and kitchenware, you can also snag vintage-style tourism prints of Wales, specially-crafted Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars that make perfect gifts.

Quillies is a must-visit for its splendid locally-produced crafts including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass. Get your shopping fix at the family-owned No8 Clothing where you’ll find clothing, accessories, and gifts for men, women, and children.

The two-storey shop stocks popular brands such as Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder.

River Wood stands out as the UK’s only gallery-bookshop dedicated solely to wildlife and wild places, brimming with original paintings, prints, cards, and books. The upper floor houses a working artist’s studio and space for creative workshops.

For quality outdoor gear, Hill Walking offers a good selection of clothing, boots, and accessories from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers. These brands are all well-suited to handle Wales’ wildly unpredictable weather conditions.

Beyond the town, there’s a wealth of activities and outdoor adventures to keep you entertained. Rhayader serves as the gateway to the stunning Elan Valley, home to the estate’s Victorian dams nestled among the rolling green hills.

Constructed over a century ago to provide water to a heavily urbanised Birmingham, these distinctive gravity dams attract photographers who flock to capture the cascading waters.

The tale of the Elan Valley originates in the late 19th century, during a time when Birmingham, a bustling city at the peak of the Industrial Revolution, was expanding rapidly.

In need of a dependable and clean water source, engineers turned their attention to the remote Elan Valley after extensive searching. The valley, with its high rainfall and steep, narrow terrain, was an ideal site for a series of reservoirs.

In 1892, one of the era’s most ambitious water supply projects commenced. Over 3,000 workers were enlisted to construct dams, reservoirs, and aqueducts manually, aided by steam-powered machinery.

By the project’s completion in 1904, the Elan Valley had undergone a significant transformation. Four primary dams were built – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is a marvel of engineering, constructed from local stone and designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape.

For instance, the Caban Coch Dam, viewed from afar, resembles a natural cliff face, but up close, its immense size and the sound of water cascading over its edge are truly breathtaking.

The reservoirs themselves, large and deep bodies of water, mirror the surrounding hills and sky, creating a picture-perfect scene. Maps of the estate can be obtained from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, where staff are also on hand to recommend scenic routes to view the dams.

The ideal time for a leisurely drive around the estate is after a heavy downpour (a common occurrence in Wales), when reservoir water cascades over the steep ‘Birmingham Baroque’-style structures.

Fancy a guided tour by a local expert? You can arrange a customised tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris, discovering all the hidden gems with a knowledgeable guide.

One of the top ways to explore Elan Valley is by walking or cycling along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path traces the old railway line that transported materials to the valley during the dam’s construction.

Today, a well-kept trail meanders through some of the valley’s most picturesque spots. Beginning in the quaint village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you’ll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly situated to showcase Elan’s finest Victorian dams.

The linear trail is mostly level, with a few slopes and tarmacked sections, making it suitable for cyclists of all skill levels, including older children. And if you fancy a bit of extra assistance, you can always hire an E-bike in Rhayader – who says you can’t traverse the valley in style?

If you’re not bringing your own bike, you can hire a push bike or an E-bike from either Neil’s Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. The trail should take around three hours, so renting a bike for half a day should provide ample time for photo opportunities and coffee breaks.

The path ascends 165ft from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, passing by the striking Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When filled to capacity, millions of gallons of water tumble over the historic 120ft-high dam walls of Cabin Coch.

Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water is the owner of the nearby Elan Estate, though a significant portion is vested in the Elan Valley Trust. While its primary function is to provide clean water, the estate also serves as a meticulously managed beauty spot for intrigued visitors.

Over 80% of the valley is recognised as a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), teeming with wildlife and extraordinary landscapes. Owing to its varied habitats and careful stewardship, the Elan Valley is a sanctuary for a broad spectrum of wildlife. The valley’s woodlands, moorlands, and wetlands offer habitats for a diverse array of species including birds, mammals, insects, and plants.

The expansive moorland acts as a hunting ground for birds of prey, with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally peregrine falcons soaring high above.

For a closer view of the resident red kites, head to Gigrin Farm, renowned for its red kite feeding. Situated half a mile from Rhayader, hundreds of red kites feed here, making it the best spot in the UK to see and photograph hundreds of wild red kites, including the rare leucistic red kites.

Small-scale cattle farming is a vital aspect of Elan Valley’s agricultural scene, with only a few farms still maintaining this tradition. Keep your eyes peeled and you’ll spot cattle leisurely grazing on the open hills and within some enclosed habitats.

The flora of Elan Valley is equally captivating. Dense forests house ancient oaks while the moorlands are blanketed in a lush layer of heather, bilberry, and mosses.

Come spring and summer, the valley’s meadows come alive with wildflowers, adding vibrant hues to the landscape. Did you know that Rhayader and the Elan Valley boast some of the world’s darkest, clearest, and least polluted skies?

With its 45,000 acres of safeguarded land, Elan Valley has been at the forefront of this movement since it was awarded International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, making it the first privately owned, publicly accessible park in the world to achieve this.

This prestigious status now protects the Elan Valley from light pollution, providing a haven for the rich wildlife and nature that call the estate home.

Since earning its dark-sky designation, Elan Valley has gained recognition as one of the premier stargazing destinations globally, featuring in numerous stargazing guides, talks, and books.

But what does this mean for astronomy enthusiasts? Simply put, it means minimal light pollution and crystal-clear skies where you can observe the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint glow of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye.

The valley’s secluded setting and dedicated conservation efforts make it a top choice for those yearning for a profound connection with the universe.

This location boasts several prime spots for stargazing. Remember to bring a red-light torch to maintain your night vision, and give your eyes 20 minutes to adapt to the darkness for the full celestial experience.

For a more engaging encounter, keep an eye out for organised stargazing events in the area to connect with the cosmos or try your hand at astrophotography.

The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales frequently organise guided tours and workshops that provide expert knowledge and telescope access. For dark sky events, check the Elan Valley’s What’s On webpage, Facebook (ElanValley), and Instagram (@elanvalley).

Where to stay

Mid Wales Holiday Lets

These affordable holiday lets can accommodate up to 44 people, with Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch all available.

The attractive red-brick converted townhouses are ideal for groups of friends or families visiting the Elan Valley area. They also cater well to cyclists, offering secure bike storage to safeguard your equipment. After a long day exploring, you can relax in the outdoor hot tub, perfect for easing those tired muscles.

Ty Morgans

For a stay in the heart of Rhayader, Ty Morgans is a historic townhouse that seamlessly blends traditional charm with a contemporary feel. This charming, reasonably priced boutique hotel is nestled at the heart of Rhayader, making it an ideal base for exploring both the town and the Elan Valley.

The snug rooms retain original features such as oak beams and stone fireplaces, whilst providing all the contemporary comforts you’d anticipate, including en suite bathrooms. Ty Morgans also boasts an on-site bar and restaurant where guests can savour a range of meals from hearty Welsh breakfasts to evening dinners. Its central location means local shops, pubs and the Riverside Walk are just a short amble away.

Elan Valley Hotel

Just a brief drive from the Elan Valley, the Elan Valley Hotel is a top pick for those seeking a blend of comfort and convenience in a boutique hotel setting. Here, you’ll discover well-furnished rooms with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed with relaxation in mind, featuring plush beds and modern amenities.

The hotel’s restaurant is famed for its outstanding menu, which uses locally-sourced ingredients to deliver a truly authentic taste of Wales. It’s the perfect spot for easy access to the Elan Valley’s numerous trails and reservoirs, all while enjoying a dash of luxury.

Getting to Rhayader

Rhayader, the gateway to the Elan Valley, is easily reachable from various parts of Wales and England.

By car

If you’re hitting the road, Rhayader is conveniently accessible via the A470 and A44, offering a picturesque drive from cities like Cardiff (roughly 2.5 hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (about 90 minutes). The roads leading into mid Wales meander through charming countryside, so do factor in some extra time for leisurely rural routes and photo opportunities.

Public transport

You can also opt to travel by train and bus, although services are somewhat limited in this rural region. The closest train station is in Llandrindod Wells, approximately 12 miles away, with connections provided by Transport for Wales. From there, a local bus service can take you to Rhayader. For more details and timetables, consult Traveline Cymru or use transport apps to assist in planning your journey.

The UK’s longest indoor ski slope is set to be built after councillors approved plans for the resort which will also include a water park, up to 418 hotel rooms and woodland lodges.

One UK town is poised to become home to the longest indoor snow centre after plans were given the green light. The bold proposal for a new indoor ski slope and leisure complex in Merthyr Tydfil has been approved by councillors following the Welsh Government’s decision not to step in.

This means the Rhydycar West development can now move forward. The scheme, situated south west of the A470/A4102 roundabout, includes an indoor ski slope, water park, indoor and outdoor activity centres, up to 418 hotel rooms, as many as 30 woodland lodge units, and up to 830 car parking spaces.

The facility is expected to serve as the official training base for the GB and Welsh national, Olympic and Paralympic snow sports teams. The project took a significant step forward when it received backing from Merthyr Tydfil Council’s planning committee on Wednesday, January 7.

Councillor Andrew Barry stressed that their main priority is the wellbeing of local residents. He told council that to tackle deprivation in Merthyr “we need positive economic solutions”, reports Wales Online.

He argued that growth could be delivered through developments of this magnitude. Cllr Barry underscored the potential for small business creation and inspiring ambition among locals.

He also emphasised the advantages to the supply chain from the development, as well as the boost to the local economy and wider region. He declared: “We have the opportunity to change the whole socio-economic dynamic of Merthyr here.”

Cllr Brent Carter hailed this project as “ground breaking” and a “complete game changer for Merthyr Tydfil”. He voiced his immense support and enthusiasm for the project, asserting it would “massively support and boost our economy in Merthyr Tydfil”.

He saw it as a prime opportunity to position Merthyr Tydfil as a “world class destination of choice”, adding: “Merthyr Tydfil needs Rhydycar West.”

Cllr Julia Jenkins expressed that they’ve been overlooked for too long and that Bike Park Wales has contributed greatly to the area. She predicted a surge of visitors and implored: “We must grab this opportunity with both hands.”

The Welsh Government had previously directed the council not to approve planning permission for the application, pending further consideration as to whether the application should be referred to the Welsh ministers for their decision.

In March 2025, the planning committee voted against officer recommendations to reject the application. In November 2025, the council was notified by the Welsh Government that the application would not be called in by Welsh ministers.

The Cabinet Secretary for Economy, Energy and Planning concluded that while there are conflicts with national policy, they are of a scale and complexity that she is comfortable for the local planning authority to handle.

The committee’s report on 7 January indicates that the Welsh Government has acknowledged conflicts with national planning policy. However, the original recommendation to the committee remains unaltered.

The report further highlighted that since members have chosen not to accept the officer’s recommendation, it now falls to them to approve the application subject to conditions and the terms of a Section 106 agreement.

The proposed development also encompasses associated earthworks, access routes, drainage systems, service and utility connections, and infrastructure.

“Terry epitomised everything it means to represent Wales as a player, and watching the 1994 World Cup qualifying campaign with him as manager was the first time I experienced genuine belief that our country could qualify for a major tournament.

“My thoughts and condolences are with Terry’s family and friends during this difficult time, everyone in the Welsh football family will miss an incredible person.”

Yorath guided Wales to within a win of reaching the 1994 World Cup finals in the USA but his team lost 2-1 at home to Romania in Cardiff, which ultimately proved to be his final game in charge.

Barry Horne was Wales’ captain that night having been appointed skipper by Yorath and also played under him at Huddersfield Town.

“He represented his country with massive pride and distinction,” former midfielder Horne told BBC Wales’ Feast of Football podcast.

“Terry had taken Wales from not being very competitive to the brink of what I think would have been a glorious era for Welsh football.

“We had great players, we had balance, team spirit and Terry’s got to take a lot of credit for that.

“He was a leader and he had a great relationship with the players and I can’t tell you how much I owe him.

“He was a proud Welshman and he served his country through his football absolutely brilliantly.

Lydiate combined playing with coaching duties for Dragons in the 2024-25 season when he made 12 appearances before hanging up his boots.

The 38-year-old former blind-side flanker has stayed on as part of Filo Tiatia’s staff with responsibility for the contact area.

Ex-fly-half Patchell joined Dragons last summer in a part-time role and works with the kickers once a week.

Head coach Tiatia does not know if Wales will request the services of his assistants for the Six Nations.

“We’ve not heard anything yet. I spoke to Steve Tandy on Wednesday night about some different things, but I’ll soon find out,” said the former Ospreys forward.

“The autumn was a great opportunity for them and they came back from it as better coaches from the exposure to different things.

“They learnt from working with Danny [Wilson], ‘Jockey’ [Sherratt] and Tandy, plus Duncan who is a good mate of mine, over those weeks in camp.”

Ospreys and Dragons meet in Bridgend on Saturday, 31 January when their Wales contingents will be missing.

There is one round of URC action during the Six Nations with Ospreys hosting Ulster and Dragons entertaining Benetton on Saturday, 28 February.

An often overlooked city in the UK has been tainted with titles such as being the ‘worst’ place to stay, yet a travel writer has uncovered its allure and urges everyone to visit

A travel expert has defended the UK city that has been tainted by negative views, hailing it as one of the best and highlighting its thriving independent businesses and welcoming allure.

Earlier this year, Newport was named as the “worst” place to stay in the UK following research from Go Compare, which evaluated 55 destinations across the country for their family-friendly accommodation and visitor attractions. Elsewhere, a report by the Centre for Cities this year found that Newport has one of the highest numbers of empty shops of anyone in the UK.

Such damning reports mean that the Welsh city is often overlooked by travellers looking for a place to explore. Yet, an award-winning travel writer, who dedicates much of his time to discovering hidden gems across the UK, has labelled it as one of the best cities.

READ MORE: I stayed at UK’s worst hotel and used UV light in my windowless room – I wasn’t prepared

OPINION

Amy Jones

Ben Aitken, 39, loves to visit and explore British locations that are frequently dismissed by tourists, uncovering their often underappreciated charm. And Newport is one of them. “It’s punching massively below its weight in the sense that it’s got a lot going for it and people aren’t recognising that and are not taking advantage of that,” Ben exclusively told the Mirror.

“It’s peppered with these really excellent independent businesses. There are a lot of diamonds in this unfashionable place. And I can’t claim to have met all of the people that live in Newport, but I met a fair few, and each of them was friendly and welcoming.”

Having first visited in April last year, Ben said: “The first thing that struck me about Newport was its architecture. It was a boom town in the 1800s, and the legacy of its importance and significance, both industrial and civic, is still evident.

“The architecture is quite quirky; it’s not straightforwardly classic or Gothic. The high street curves and slopes in a nice way. It wasn’t buzzing, but that’s true for many towns and cities across the UK, if not the world, these days. It’s just a reality that the behaviour or habits of consumerism have changed so much.

“We no longer use high streets in the same way anymore, and when there’s no tourism in a place, that reality can appear a little unappealing, creating a quiet atmosphere. However, there are a few independent businesses that really impressed me in Newport after I wandered around for an hour.”

Ben revealed: “I had a great Italian meal at a place called Vittorio’s on the top of Stow Hill, opposite the cathedral. That’s been run by a family of third-generation Italian immigrants for about 30-40 years, as miners from Tuscany came to Newport in the 19th or early 20th century. That was a fantastic meal.

“There was also a great pub called Le Pub, which is short for Le Public space, and they do gigs and other events. It’s really relaxed, and has an inviting and quirky vibe. I chatted with the locals there and had a Trevor Nelson. It’s the local cocktail, but no one seems to know what it’s made of.

“Across the street, you’ve got a pub called Ye Olde Murenger House, and that’s about 4,000 years old. It’s the oldest and cosiest pub in Newport.” Ben added that the cafe, Rogue Fox, and fine dining restaurant at Gem 42 were other standout independent establishments in Newport.

He continued: “I also went to the Geraint Thomas National Velodrome of Wales, and there’s a brilliant velodrome just across the River Usk. Anybody can have a go. For about £20, they provided me with a bike, a helmet, and some instructions, and I whizzed around the velodrome for about an hour. It was the first time I’ve ever done that.

“Then I went to watch a rugby match at Rodney Parade. The pies were delicious. I didn’t really know what was going on, but it was atmospheric and meaningful.”

During his time in Newport, Ben stayed at the five-star Celtic Manor Resort, one of the country’s most renowned hotels. “It was really nice, it does what it does very well. I just wish it supported Newport city centre a little bit more by directing its guests there for dinner rather than to Cardiff or Bristol.

“I think I was the first visitor to have walked to the hotel from the train station, but I just wanted to demonstrate that you can do it.”

Ben added: “I’m not asking people to up sticks and move to Newport. I’m just asking them to consider visiting, staying over for the night, and I promise you can fill a weekend there. It has food, history, fun, and accommodation. It just goes to show that anywhere can be interesting and enjoyable if you just give it half a chance.”

You can read more about Ben’s UK travels and treasured finds in his book, Sh**y Breaks: A Celebration of Unsung Cities, which was released earlier this year. Alternatively, you can visit his Instagram page.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

Wainwright has made 129 appearances for Dragons since making his debut in October 2017 and has only won 29 matches with 93 defeats and seven draws.

He turned down other offers in favour of signing a new Dragons deal in January 2024.

Now Wainwright is expected to decide to try another challenge and link up with fellow Wales back-rowers Tommy Reffell and Olly Cracknell at Leicester.

Wainwright will still be available for Wales because he has 62 international caps.

Welsh rugby’s 25-cap rule says anybody below this tally cannot play international rugby if they sign for a club outside of Wales but Wainwright easily exceeds that bar.

A significant proportion of Steve Tandy’s Wales side already ply their club trade in England with 13 non-home-based players involved in the autumn squad.

Wainwright, Lake and Morgan are joining the likes of Dafydd Jenkins, Louis Rees-Zammit, Tomos Williams, Rhys Carre, Nicky Smith, Nick Tompkins, Jarrod Evans, Max Llewellyn and Freddie Thomas, who all play for English clubs, while lock Adam Beard is at French side Montpellier.

Leicester had also been keen on recruiting Wales fly-half Dan Edwards, but he is close to committing his future to Ospreys.

Edwards, 22, would be ineligible for Wales selection if he went to play in England because he has only played seven internationals.

The Trinity Street house used as a filming location for Dorris’s home in the hit BBC series Gavin & Stacey is available to book via Sykes Cottages

This house is a national treasure in Wales, having featured in every series of the much-loved TV show Gavin and Stacey. Now, fans of the sitcom can experience it for themselves.

Affectionately known as the ‘Lush House’, guests can spend the night in the South Wales home that belonged to Gwen and later Dorris in the series. Located on Trinity Street in the heart of Barry, this iconic red-bricked terraced house served as a filming location for the show for many years.

It even became the central family home in the final episodes, making it particularly special for fans. Now, those eager to immerse themselves in the world of the show can book a minimum two-night stay.

Since its television debut, the house has undergone a bit of a makeover, with a fresh coat of paint and some modern updates for the comfort of its guests.

This slice of British TV history comes equipped with all the amenities needed for a comfortable stay, all while knowing you’re in rooms once graced by TV royalty.

The property can accommodate up to five guests, making it perfect for a group getaway to the seaside, where you can explore other locations featured in Gavin and Stacey.

As for sleeping arrangements, there are two cosy bedrooms: one with a double bed, reminiscent of the one our favourite couple stayed in, and another featuring two twin beds in a bunk – ideal for children.

Downstairs in the communal living areas, guests can enjoy unlimited rewatches of their favourite episodes with a TV and Wi-Fi. Plus, an electric fire ensures the place stays cosy and warm, making it a perfect getaway for all seasons.

It’s worth noting that the property also features a dishwasher, saving you time on washing up, and a washing machine for those planning a longer stay. Additionally, there’s a quaint garden patio area for those moments when you fancy some fresh air.

Beyond the confines of the home, Barry has plenty to offer, and it’s all conveniently located right at your doorstep. With roadside parking available, it’s easy to jump in the car and explore the town, just like your favourite telly family.

You can take in the iconic Barry Island promenade, complete with arcades and fish and chip shops for a quintessential British seaside experience. Why not drop by the much-loved Marco’s Café or even try your luck at the slot machines where Nessa used to work, and where some of the show’s most hilarious scenes took place?

Aside from the Gavin and Stacey highlights, the area boasts a wealth of attractions for families, including the lively Barry Island Pleasure Park. For those who prefer the great outdoors, Porthkerry Country Park offers stunning woodland walks with breathtaking views of the Bristol Channel.

You can secure a minimum of two nights’ stay in the Lush House, with prices starting from approximately £472, though rates fluctuate during the summer months. Reservations can be made online through Sykes Cottages.

Wales’ craggy coastline is among the most beautiful in the world and can be enjoyed year-round

The UK’s craggy coastline is among the most beautiful in the world and can be enjoyed year-round, especially in winter when crowds disperse and prices drop. I spent an affordable winter weekend in Tenby, widely considered one of the UK’s best seaside towns — and now summer travel is officially off the list as I want to avoid the crowds and sky-high prices.

There’s a particular joy in taking a solitary coastal walk on a Tuesday in November while everyone else is stuck at their desks. Strolling around the seafront, it’s easy to see why Tenby is such a hit. With picturesque beaches just a short stroll from the lively town centre, pubs, cobbled streets, and eye-catching, brightly coloured houses, I’m not surprised that this coastal jewel consistently tops the list of the country’s “best seaside towns”.

Stepping beyond its historic 13th-century walls, you’ll find sandy beaches and dramatic cliffside vistas over the sea towards the mesmerising Caldey Island. I have visited Tenby many, many times over the years, from childhood holidays to grown-up escapes and I love it a bit more with each visit. While admittedly summer is perfect for sea swimming and long wine-filled afternoons on sun-trap pub terraces, I have come to appreciate Tenby more in winter, especially when I can bag a good accommodation deal.

Sure, the weather might not be as sunny, but this is Wales. It’s completely unpredictable, so you may as well chance a cheaper autumn visit and hope the weather gods smile upon you. I love that if you visit Tenby during the week, say, mid-January, you can escape the crowds and wander the pretty streets and sandy beaches in relative peace. Just wrap up warm, buy a hot chocolate, and watch the waves roll in from a chilled-out seaside cafe.

Where to stay in Tenby

You can get some pretty good deals in the off-season, especially if you visit midweek rather than at the weekend. One of my favourite spots is YHA Manorbier, a very affordable stay that’s a short drive from the town centre.

This budget-friendly hostel, situated on a former military installation, offers glamping and camping facilities and costs under £50 for a private en-suite room for two (YHA members pay even less). Accommodation options include affordable private rooms, unique American Airstreams, cute camping pods, and pitch-up camping.

I usually book a clean, private en-suite room for just £45 for two, and as a YHA member, I get an extra 10% off. Win! Yes, the private rooms can have limited space for large luggage, which estate agents might call “bijou” and normal people might call “compact”. However, for just over £20 each it’s a genuine bargain – especially in the pricey Pembrokeshire area. You’re here for the vibes.

A community-spirited atmosphere fostered by shared kitchens, mismatched mugs, and conversations over wine in the lounge. Want to stay closer to town? Check out autumn deals on Booking.com and book a seaside hotel for around £70 for two adults, or spoil yourself with a stay at a four-star property, the Dunes, for just £80 for a night in the off-season.

The Premier Inn Tenby Town Centre hotel costs just £48 for a night for two in January and offers a cosy stay right in the middle of all the action.

Things to do in Tenby off-season

There’s still plenty to do in Tenby after the busy summer season has ended. You can stomp along the coast path, drink craft ales in local boozers, browse boutique shops, and pick up locally made gifts. Tenby has several sandy beaches where you can take a chilly winter sea dip if you’re feeling brave or drink hot chocolate overlooking the blustery shoreline.

South Beach is a dune-backed sandy beach close to the town and has the added accolade of being a Blue Flag Beach. For food options, check out Salty’s Beach Bar and Restaurant, located right on the beach.

Nearby Castle Beach was crowned the UK’s best beach in 2019 and currently holds a 4.8 out of five rating on Google. Unlike most places in the UK, it’s just a few steps from the town centre. North Beach in the Pembrokeshire town has previously been voted the most photogenic in the UK, beating other stunning sites like Durdle Door in Dorset and Brighton seafront. Pretty Harbour Beach is the smallest but has a backdrop of colourful houses, bobbing boats, and a road leading back to town.

Autumn is also a great time to traverse the Tenby Coast Path. This scenic section of the larger Pembrokeshire Coast Path offers views of Tenby’s colourful harbour, Caldey Island, and St Catherine’s Island.

Popular routes include the four-mile walk to Saundersfoot, a moderate nine-mile loop returning inland, and a challenging 10.9-mile point-to-point path to Freshwater East.

If it’s raining, head to Tenby Museum and Art Gallery, the oldest independent museum in Wales. Established in 1878, this retro museum houses a wide-ranging collection of local geology, biology, archaeology, and maritime artefacts.

Many of the exhibits also relate to the culture and heritage of South Pembrokeshire, offering insight into local history and art. A small gift shop near the entrance also sells local books and gift items.

The museum’s admission price is £6.50 for adults and £3.50 for children. It also operates a reusable ticket scheme – all tickets are valid for one year after purchase, so you can make as many return visits as you like within that time at no additional charge.

Places to eat and drink in Tenby

There are two local breweries in Tenby for Welsh tipples. Both produce quality beers and supply local bars and restaurants. Tenby Brewing Co., which took over from Preseli Brewery, has multiple stockists in Tenby and is one of Wales’s leading craft breweries.

The award-winning brewery was born when two friends decided (over a pint) to quit the rat race and start their own brewery. The Yard is their hip venue here at the brewery, with a capacity of 150, an exciting rotating food offering from awesome pop-up food vendors, draft beer lines from their range, and some of their favourite brewers.

The newer brewery on the scene, Harbwr, is a craft brewery and taproom that brews a range of cask and bottled ales just above Tenby harbour.

Food-wise, Tenby’s cluster of tiny streets and pastel-coloured buildings hides its best restaurants and cafes down the narrowest of alleys.

One of these more secluded dining finds is Plantagenet House, with a warren of flagstone floors, exposed beams, and a 40ft medieval Flemish chimney.

If you book early enough, you can bag a table by the fireplace. A recommended dish is their vegan Thai coconut curry, featuring squash, chargrilled spring onion, spiced rice, and roasted almonds.

Links restaurant is located on the ground floor of Tenby Golf Club and is a great Michelin-recommended dining choice for gastronomes.

Led by a talented local chef, the menu features simple yet incredibly tasty dishes made with the best Welsh produce. Start your meal with their freshly baked ale bread, served with whipped Marmite butter – trust me, it’s the perfect opener.

The atmosphere is relaxed but refined, and the menu strikes the perfect balance between unpretentious and exciting. From hot-smoked salmon with cucumber and buttermilk to heritage tomatoes paired with buffalo mozzarella, there are loads of lush dishes to choose from.

For mains, enjoy locally sourced delights like Pembrokeshire beef or Cornish cod in a bisque sauce, or tuck into a tender Welsh lamb rump, served with all the right accompaniments.

And don’t forget to save room for dessert, whether it’s rich dark chocolate fondant with tarragon ice cream or tangy lemon meringue with almond cake and blueberry sorbet, you won’t go home hungry.

D. Fecci and Sons possibly serve the best fish and chips in Wales and have been serving visitors and locals since 1935. With potatoes grown up the road in Pembrokeshire and groundnut oil making haddock, cod, and calamari fantastically light, the chippy also serves fresh mackerel in the summer.

For sweet treats, pop into Môr Tenby, a swish family-run coffee shop and gift shop that sells its own blend of coffee (“Coffi Môr”), chocolate products, deli items, home fragrances, homeware, gifts, and Welsh produce.

A beloved institution in Tenby, Top Joe’s is the go-to spot for pizza lovers.

This former ’60s diner has transformed into an artisan pizzeria serving freshly-made pizza, pasta, and salads with the finest Italian ingredients. Located in the heart of this picturesque beach town, it’s a firm favourite with locals and visitors.

Chef Giovanni Recchia, recently named one of the best in the world at the Pizza World Championships, brings his expertise to the menu. He crafts pizzas with locally milled flour and top-notch ingredients, including cured meats from Trealy Farm Charcuterie.

After snapping up a room for just £50, strolling straight into pubs that are usually rammed, and demolishing fish and chips by the sea, I can honestly say winter has stolen the crown as my favourite time in Tenby.

In 2026, I fully intend to resist the siren call of summer and book another cold-weather escape, where I can wander the streets before anyone else wakes up and claim the town entirely for myself.

Williams was selected for this summer’s British and Irish Lions tour, but having impressed in a pre-tour warm-up match against Argentina, he was forced to return home after suffering a hamstring injury in the first game on Australian soil against Western Force, having scored two tries.

His departure from Kingsholm will come just as his Wales team-mates Jac Morgan and Dewi Lake join the west country club from Ospreys for 2025-26.

“Tomos Williams will depart Gloucester Rugby at the end of the 2025-26 season,” a statement on 16 December had said.

“After impressing at Kingsholm, Williams was offered a new deal to stay at the club beyond the end of the season, but has instead opted to pursue a new challenge elsewhere.

“The Welshman will depart with the best wishes of everyone at the club when the time comes, but in the meantime, is entirely dedicated to ending his time at Gloucester Rugby on a high.”

Gloucester also announced at the same time that former academy graduate Dan Robson, 33, is to return to Kingsholm next season, 10 years on from his departure in 2015.

The scrum-half previously made 80 appearances for Gloucester, where he started his senior career, before leaving for Wasps and spent seven years there until their demise in 2022. He has been with French Top 14 club Pau for the last three seasons.

Dec. 19 (UPI) — Pope Leo XIV on Friday named Bishop Richard Moth as archbishop of the Roman Catholic Church in England and Wales with about 6 million Catholics.

Moth, 67, will replace Cardinal Vincent Gerard Nichols as archbishop of Westminster, the Holy See Office said. His formal appointment will be on Feb. 14, the Guardian reported.

“I am moved greatly by the trust that Pope Leo has placed in me, in appointing me to the diocese of Westminster,” said Moth, who was bishop of Arundel and Brighton since 2015.

Earlier this year, Nichols, 80, offered to resign when he turned 75 but was asked by the late Pope Francis to remain. He was a member of the conclave that named a new pontiff in May.

Moth said Nichols has “given dedicated service to the diocese and will be missed greatly.”

Nichols said he was delighted about his successor.

“I remember being present in Westminster Cathedral on 29 September 2009 for the episcopal ordination of Bishop Richard as bishop of the forces,” Nichols said. “So today I can say: ‘Welcome back, dear Bishop Richard. You are most welcome indeed. ‘”

Moth served the territory in southern England covering the counties of Sussex and Surrey, which is not part of Westminster. His new diocese includes most of London north of the Thames and the county of Hertfordshire.

Moth said he is looking forward to his new role.

“My first task will be to get to know the priests and people of Westminster and I look forward now to serving them,” Moth said. “With them, and building on the firm foundations that have been laid by so many down the years, I look forward to continuing the great adventure that is the life of the church and witness to the gospel.”

Moth was born in southern Africa’s Zambia in 1958, grew up in Kent in southeastEngland, completed his primary and secondary studies in Catholic schools in Kent and became an ordained priest in 1982.

Before becoming bishop of Arundel and Brighton, Moth was bishop of the military forces for six years. He also leads governors at St. Mary’s University in Twickenham, and is a member of the liaison bishop for prisons.

Moth has been an oblate of Pluscarden Abbey, a community of Catholic Benedictine monks in Scotland, for more than 40 years. He also is a member of the Equestrian Order of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem.

He has been involved in numerous issues.

Moth asked clergy and parishioners to write to their ministers to express their concerns about assisted dying.

He also called for empathy for “those who come to this country for their safety,” noting Jesus’ family fled to Egypt as refugees.

And he worked on social justice issues in Britain.

There are 726 active archbishops worldwide for 1.4 billion Catholics.

On Thursday, the pope named Bishop Ronald A. Hicks, 58, of Joliet, Ill., as New York’s new archbishop, ending the 16-year tenure of Cardinal Timothy Dolan, 75.

Northern Ireland are 69th in the Fifa world rankings, 57 places below Italy and 27 adrift of Wales, but two spots above Bosnia.

Michael O’Neill’s side finished third behind Germany and Slovakia in the World Cup qualifying group but secured their play-off place thanks to their Nations League success.

Italy, Wales and Bosnia all finished second in their groups, behind Norway, Belgium and Austria respectively.

Northern Ireland are looking to qualify for their first major tournament since Euro 2016, when they were knocked out in the second round by a Wales side who went on to reach the semi-finals under Chris Coleman.

O’Neill was in the midst of his first, nine-year spell in charge of Northern Ireland at the time and is now three years into his second stint as his country’s manager.

“Down the years they’ve just had something and they know what they are. They’ve got a brilliant manager who I really like,” Bellamy added.

“I was lucky enough to spend a bit of time with him as well, and I loved him. No wonder his players do well. They won’t be playing at their home ground [against Italy], but I just feel they’ll be comfortable in any situation you throw them into.

“There will be pressure coming on Italy because they haven’t qualified for two World Cups. If I was Italy going into that game, with everyone expecting you to win, I’m telling you I’d be edgy. I wouldn’t be comfortable with it.

“Italy is one of the greatest nations in football and that’s a lot of responsibility to shoulder. To have to play a team like Northern Ireland, I’d just be thinking let’s get through this and see what happens in the other game.”