The unassuming market town in a corner of Herefordshire where Gloucestershire meets Wales was the inspiration behind Britain’s first ever travel guide
It’s an unassuming market town, nestled in the crook where Herefordshire meets Gloucestershire on the Welsh border.
But I’d never have guessed that Ross-On-Wye is the birthplace of British tourism, and THE holiday destination of the late 18th and early 19th century. Nevertheless, given there is some suggestion we are experiencing a revival of romanticism (think Wuthering Heights and Bridgerton rather than the latest rom-com), it wouldn’t surprise me if there’s a surge of soul-seekers retracing the steps of their forbears across the UK’s most beloved natural spaces.
Stepping onto the streets of the town situated on the northern edge of the Forest of Dean, less than 10 miles from the Welsh border, and six from Gloucestershire, it doesn’t take a lot of imagination to be transported through time and see what inspired the Reverend William Gilpin
In 1782, wrote Britain’s first ever travel guidebook, Observations on the River Wye.
Centered around a boat tour he took down the River Wye from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow, taking a holiday in this part of the world soon became the fashionable thing to do – especially during the Napoleanoic Wars when taking part in the Grand Tour across continental Europe became impossible. And,
So, what makes this place so special that it was immortalised by the so-called pioneer of the ‘picturesque’ adventure, and continues to draw in holidaymakers 250 years later?
As market towns go, Ross-on-Wye is a fairly well-sized one, with a population around 11,000. However it stil carries an old-world charm, littered with stunning black-and-white timber framed buildings and cute little independent shops you can while away the afternoon browsing.
After working up an appetite, we trekked towards the High Street looking for Truffles Deli, which Visit Herefordshire (www.visitherefordshire.co.uk) had suggested we nab a quick bite from. Unfortunately, the highly-rated eatery proimising delicious sandwiches, soups and cakes is closed on Sundays. Instead, a chalkboard pointed us towards Maggie’s Place, a few doors dpwn.
Cosy and inviting, incense wafted through the interior as we stepped inside, admiring the open beams and brickwork. The cafe – which also welcomes four-legged friends – has only been open a number of months, and the owners have just started introducing a more expansive menu, including sandwiches and cakes.
“We’re trying to be completely locally sourced”, the owner tells me, saying the ham in the mouthwatering sandwich I bite into is from the delicatessen around the corner. He says they are working on bringing in crisps which have been made nearby, and the bread has been locally made too.
And if the taste is anything to go by, lunch is terribly under-priced. I cannot get enough of the garlic spread in my ham sandwich, offering a smooth and creamy edge. I’m secretly grateful that my toddler is only interested in the packet of crips I bought to share.
But the thing that impressed me most about Maggie’s is the coffee. Id’ never describe myself as a coffee snob – after all, my mornings start with instant – but if I’m buying a coffee, I do have certain standards. The owner serves me a Cafe Au Lait – his version of a flat white – and it’s the first coffee I have bought out in at least two years which I haven;’t had to add sugar to. Rich, smooth, and bitter without the burnt, I’ve finished it all too quickly.
After lunch, we take a wonder up the hill towards The Royal Hotel. Now, some 200 years ago, this is where we would be staying before embarking on our boat trip as per Gilpin’s guidebook. And it’s easy to see why – the massive historic inn stands proudly above the town, boasting commanding views of the River Wye set to take your breath away.
Built on the foundations of a 13th century Bishop’s Palace, the Greene King hotel has 42 bedrooms and can host weddings. But for now, we just admire the views before heading around the corner to The Prospect.
Nestled in the pleasure garden at the back of the graveyard of St Mary’s Church, the Prospect was laid out in around 1700 by John Kyrle – also known as the ‘Man of Ross’. From here, you can see the famous horseshoe bend in the Wye and as far west as the Black Mountains.
And almost directly down below is the Hope and Anchor Inn. Traditionally, it was on the river just outside this hotel where your boat tour would depart from. Instead, this is where we headed for our overnight stay.
While it appears to be a cosy, neat and rather unassuming little pub, there is nothing ordinary about what you put in your mouth at the Hope & Anchor. Even the glass of red wine I ordered for myself as a little holiday treat far exceeded expectations. I asked for a Rioja – and instead I experienced a blast of rich, powerful flavours echoing with plum and black fruits with a woody finish (Vina Cerrada Rioja, £5.5 a small glass)
I ordered from the specials menu to start – whipped camembert brulee (£8) served on a bed of fig chutney, toasted sourdough and topped with hazelnut and apple. If you’re a fan of camembert, this is not something to be missed. The tartness of the chutney offset the creamy richness of the cammembert, topped with the satisfying crunch of the hazelnuts and apple sprinkled on top.The chutney leant an earthy flavour, and the whipped texture of the camembert offered a delightful change to both its cold and melted states.
This was followed by the garlic and thyme roasted supreme of chicken (£19.50). Out of the kitchen came a massive, steaming plate of a roast dinner, served with garlic and rosemary roast potatoes, braised red cabbage puree, glazed parsnips, roasted heritage carrots, herb and apricot stuffing, seasonal greens, Yorkshire pudding and red wine gravy. I even had a generous bowle of cauliflowe cheese on the side.
Now, as everyone knows, the true test of a roast dinner is in its potatoes. After all, no one can ever beat your mums, right? Although, the Hope & Anchor certainly have given her a run for her money. Rather than the rubbery roasties we regularly forgive pubs for, these were perfectly crispy on the outside, and steaming and fluffy on the inside, representing the gold standard all roast potatoes aim for.
Partnered with beautifuoly sweet roasted vegetables, offset with the leafy seasonal greens, and one of the biggest Yorkshire puddings I’ve ever seen on a plate, there was no way I was going to finish the meal. The cauliflower cheese also made the perfect addition, not too cheesy, not too creamy, but just perfectly balanced and toasted on top. I couldn’t resist a second helping despite my groaning stomach.
Even the chicken nuggets and chips served with baked beans to my daughter was artistry on a plate. Succulent and juicy chunks of battered chicken served with crips, hand-copped chips.
Most of all I was taken with the hospitality shown – including to my little gremlin who left most of her meal in favour of licking ketchup off a spoon. But then again, she is two, and clearly has no taste.
For breakfast, we wonderd into the neairghbouring Pavillion, a bright, welcome space offering a chic and timeless interior. It was the perfect setting to tuck into my eggs Royale for breakfast – and yes, the yolk was delightfully goey with a delicious crunch from the toasted muffin.
The boat tour itself traditonally set sail from outside the Hope and Anchor Inn.
We then made our way to the river’s edge, determined to follow in Gilpin’s footsteps despite the swollen Wye and saturated paths. I downloaded the Museum Without Walls App https://museumwithoutwalls.uk/?utm_source=visitherefordshire&utm_medium=visit_website_link – Ross-on-Wye’s virtual museum, which uses AR (augmented realITY) to impose pictures showing what a particular location would look like in days gone by. I point the app at the sign just outside the Hope and Anchor, and in an instant I can see the boats preparing to set sail down the Wye towards Chepstow.
With determination, we set off, with every intention to at least reach the first bridge on the river, despite my daughter’s insistence with making friends with a couple of rather tame swans, and an alarming game of chase which took her frightening close to the swollen banks of the fast-flowing river.
Unfortunately, the path simply was too waterlogged to get even that far. Instead, we turned on our heels, considering taking a stop in the popular Riverside Inn in Wye Street as part of our return.
Hopefully next time, my companion will have long enough legs to make the journey on her own feet, too, perhaps when the weather is slightly less boggy.
What you need to know
- The Hope & Anchor offers lunch and dinner options as well as overnight stays, while next door The Pavilion restaurant and bar offers breakfast and cocktail masterclasses. There is also The Hut on the river’s edge, serving cakes, hot drinks and ice creams for those on the go. Find out more or book your visit here.
- Find out more about Ross-on-Wye on the Visit Herefordshire website.
- Follow Gilpin’s Wye Boat Tour by downloading the Museum Without Walls App here
- Maggie’s Place at 24 High Street is open 10.30am-4.30pm Monday to Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, and from 12.30pm to 4.30pm on Sundays. Find out more here.
- The Royal Hotel is open all year round with breakfast served between 7am and 11am Monday to Friday and 8am to 12pm on weekends. You can also eat in the evening until 9pm. It’s also dog-friendly. Find out more here.