vineyard

PAIR a foodie city break in Canada’s Toronto with vineyards and lakeside luxury in Prince Edward County, says Deputy Picture Editor Antoinette Cumberbatch.

Cocooned in a blanket, I gaze at the yellow hue above the horizon and the colours sweeping across the sky, as the sun sets gloriously over the vast expanse of Lake Ontario.

From my deckchair, all I can hear are the rhythmic sounds of water hitting the pebbled shore as I sip a glass of crisp rosé. This is perfection.  

Feeling vine 

I’m exploring Canada’s Prince Edward County, a 21/2-hour drive east from Toronto, and the eclectic Drake Devonshire in the quaint town of Wellington makes for the perfect base, with its beach-house feel, glass-fronted outdoor sauna and this idyllic lakeside setting.

Airy bedrooms with quirky artwork, plus a ping-pong table and photobooth downstairs complete the vibe.

Double rooms cost from £164 per night (Thedrake.ca/drakedevonshire).  

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“The County”, as it’s called by Torontonians, is fast becoming known for its wineries, too.

Less than 10 minutes’ drive from my pad is Huff Estates, where the team has been perfecting its wines since 2002.

I sample a few silky blends – my fave is the Vines Unoaked Chardonnay – and learn how the region’s limestone-rich soil and cooler climate produces a unique blend. Tastings cost from £12 per person (Huffestates.com).  

Meanwhile, it’s a family affair at TerraCello Winery.

The seven-acre vineyard with Italian heritage is small compared to the others, but it makes exquisite riesling – tastings cost £11 per person – as well as delicious pizza, £10 (Terracellowinery.com).

For fans of elegant pinot noir, Closson Chase is also worth a stop, just a few minutes down the road (Clossonchase.com). 

Top of the crops 

Later that evening, I join a farm-to-table experience that’s as hands-on as it gets, with husband and wife team Luhana and Zach at Littlejohn Farm.

Cooking together in a small group, I’m tasked with rolling and filling fresh pasta for the cheese agnolotti – a skill I vow to continue back home.

But the star of the show has to be tender, home-raised lamb, which is the best I’ve ever tasted. Experiences cost from £122 per person (Littlejohnfarm.com).

I end my night at The Duchess, an elegant art-deco bar just a stroll from my hotel, with a Stay Curious cocktail – a heady blend of brandy, pineapple rum, coconut Campari, bergamot, lime and cucumber, £12 (Barduchess.com).  

Another gem is Base 31, 20 minutes’ drive away. Once a former WW2 airbase, it’s now a creative cultural hub with street food and live gigs.

I wander around the former barracks and gaze up at the restored Lancaster Bomber, before reading poignant love letters from a serviceman to his wife in its Love Notes exhibition. Entry costs £5 (Base31.ca). 

To the tower! 

The sister hotel of my lakeside stay, The Drake, puts me in the thick of Canada’s biggest city and Ontario’s capital, Toronto.

Set in one of the city’s coolest districts – Queen West – indie shops, cafes and restaurants line the pavements, alongside vibrant street art. Double rooms cost from £142 a night (Thedrake.ca/thedrakehotel). 

Of course, my first visit here wouldn’t be complete without whizzing to the top of the CN Tower.

Standing at 533m high, this former communication tower has been a staple of the skyline since 1976. Tickets to the highest platform cost £32 per person (Cntower.ca). 

But for me, Toronto is really about the food. I start at Lakeview diner, in the Dundas West neighbourhood.

You may not know the name, but it’s big-screen famous, having featured in blockbusters including Hairspray and Cocktail.

You can even sit in the booth where Tom Cruise sat, sipping its must-try apple-pie milkshake, £6.50.

Just being here feels like stepping into cinematic history, with autographs scrawled above the bar by actors who have filmed here (Thelakeviewrestaurant.ca).  

Elsewhere, St Lawrence Market, set up in 1814, proves perfect for a crash course in Canadian flavours.

I can’t resist picking up a raspberry-shaped pastry filled with raspberry whipped cream, £2.45, from Future Bakery, and I try the legendary peameal bacon sandwich in its salty, buttery roll from Carousel Bakery, £4.50 (Stlawrencemarket.com).  

Maple matters 

Close to St Lawrence’s, the historic Distillery District oozes character with its industrial red-brick buildings and cobbled streets.

I grab a delicious signature maple latte, £3.25, at Balzac’s (Balzacs.com), before heading to Mexican El Catrin Destileria for lunch.

Guacamole is crushed tableside for the nachos, £11.30, and I devour the fish tacos, £15.50, in seconds.

With tequila flavours including hibiscus and lime, tamarind and pineapple, I opt for a flight of mini margaritas to remove any decision-making, £27 for four (Elcatrin.ca). 

Craving some retail therapy, the next day I head to Ossington Avenue, a 10-minute stroll from The Drake.

Here, I find LoversLand, a stylish concept store selling cute trinkets and excellent socks (Loversland.com), retro fashion heaven Uncle Studios (Unclexstudios.com), and Rotate This, a record shop stacked with nostalgic vinyl (Rotatethis.com). 

The final evening of my trip comes around all too soon, and to mark the occasion I book a table at the achingly-cool Prime Seafood Palace, which is high-end – the chef’s menu will set you back £133 – but without any of the pretentiousness.

The tuna tartare and prime rib are flawless, but it’s the key-lime pie and maple tart that really steal the show for me (Primeseafood palace.ca).  

It makes for a pairing as perfect as Canada’s unofficial capital and the rural haven of Prince Edward County. 

In the heart of the countryside and conveniently located just an hour from London, is a frozen-in-time town with a sprawling vineyard that offers an idyllic day out

Just outside London is a picturesque market town with independent businesses, rolling hill vistas and a vineyard with its very own wine train.

Nestled in the heart of the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), and just an hour’s train journey from London, is the charming market town of Dorking. While it’s a commuter town, often cited as a laid-back alternative to its neighbours, Guildford and Reigate, Dorking offers a scenic day out against its picturesque backdrop.

The historic town is said to have a ‘nostalgic’ feel, thanks to its timber-framed buildings, traditional coaching inns, and narrow alleys in a nod to its deep medieval roots. Travellers are said to have traditionally used Dorking as a stop between the South Coast and London, while its Victorian-era tales still run through the town.

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Its frozen-in-time setting is only enhanced by its renowned antique quarter on West Street, the town’s oldest street, with hidden gems, vintage items and ancient treasures. Dorking is also renowned for its independent scene of boutiques, coffee houses and eateries, alongside popular branded stores on the High Street.

When it comes to food, there are a few notable spots to point out, including the Michelin-starred restaurant Sorrel, offering modern fine dining from à la carte and tasting menus, to really savour the flavours. Elsewhere, there’s the steakhouse, Heaven’s Kitchen, a pizzeria, Monte Forte, Mediterranean dishes at Arto Restaurant, and, on the outskirts of the town, The Hillroom Restaurant, which offers a delightful afternoon.

Yet it’s well worth exploring beyond the main streets, as cosy squares are tucked among the picturesque town, including Old Kings Courtyard, Allen Court and St Martin’s Walk. That’s in addition to the Dorking Halls, where visitors can catch a theatre performance, watch live music, or sit down for a film.

A walk around the town is enough to warrant a visit, whether it’s to browse its independent retailers or explore its narrow lanes and stunning medieval architecture. But its selection of walking routes and famed Box Hill zig-zag cycle trail are another highlight in the area, offering the chance to really take in the picture-postcard scenes of the rolling Surrey countryside.

And a little further afield, an 8-minute car journey or 20-minute bus ride to be precise, is where you’ll find the vineyard with its very own wine train. The Denbies Wine Estate is England’s largest single-estate vineyard, spanning 265 acres, with its very own hotel and restaurant on-site.

Visitors can book a wine tasting or tour, enjoy one of their events, or book a stay at the vineyard hotel. But one of its most notable experiences is the outdoor vineyard train tour.

Guests can enjoy the train journey around the vineyard underneath the British sunshine while stopping for their next tipple of vino and soaking up the vistas of the Denbies Estate and the North Downs. With tickets starting from just £12.50 per person for the 50-minute tour, it might just be the best way to enjoy the spring weather.

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AS I strolled through the vineyards with a glass of bubbles in my hand, I imagined myself in the South of France.

Yet I was just a one-hour train ride from my home in Kent – one of the most established regions for producing English sparkling wine.

While it may not boast the same sunshine levels as France’s Bordeaux, the soil here is very similar to the Champagne region, offering optimal growing conditions.

And it produces some excellent wines.

I’d been touring one of Kent’s most famous vineyards – Chapel Down, in the village of Small Hythe, near Tenterden.

Visitors can book a three-hour Wine And Dine experience, starting in the vines on the beautiful 22-acre estate, which was founded in 1977.

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It has immaculate rows of grape varieties that include Bacchus, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc.

Following a stroll among the vines, we were taken into the barn to learn about the art of riddling. The process was made famous by France’s Grand Dame of Champagne – Madame Clicquot, who invented the first riddling table in 1816.

It sees each bottle periodically turned to loosen the sediment and achieve a crystal-clear wine.

Sitting among oak barrels in the barn, it gave us a taste of the generations of wine wisdom in every glass.

But it’s not all about wine. Guests can enjoy a taste of Shakespeare, too from £18pp. Sussex-based company This Is My Theatre will bring William Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream to Chapel Down, and visitors can bring a blanket and pick up a bottle of English sparkling wine to toast a night of magical comedy among the vines on June 12.

If you are not a Shakespeare fan, Chapel Down will also host a summer series of music including the Bacchus Wind Orchestra and an evening of jazz playing on July 5. Tickets are from £20pp.

Instead of the gym, why not book a spot for sunset yoga at the vineyard followed by a one-hour tasting of five wines?

These sessions will take place among the vines (weather permitting) on selected dates in May, June and August for £35pp.

Following my history lesson, it was time to put my knowledge to the test with a tasting session.

The best-selling bottle here is the £30 Brut, which has notes of fresh citrus and strawberry. But my favourite was the Chapel Down Grand Reserve 2019, which matures for five years to create a rich, toasted taste.

Then it was time for lunch at The Swan restaurant. Dishes included beetroot and vodka cured trout, which pairs well with a crisp glass of Chapel Down Bacchus.

Those visiting on a Sunday should try the roasted pork loin served with a tart apple sauce.

Then grab a tipple to take home from the on-site shop. I picked up a bottle of the Grand Reserve for £45.

After all, every day should be toasted with the best.