Tuscany

Scattered between the Tuscan coast and Corsica, the seven islands of the Tuscan archipelago offer a striking contrast to mainland Tuscany. All are part of a protected national park, but each has its own character – some are lively, others tiny and sparsely inhabited. Montecristo and Gorgona are only accessible via strictly limited guided tours, but here’s a brief guide to the highlights of the other five.

Elba: the all-year-rounder

As Italy’s third-largest island, and with a year-round community, Elba is the archipelago’s main tourist hub, blending Napoleonic history with rugged landscapes, lively seaside towns and fine beaches. It is famous for Napoleon’s brief 1814 exile at the Palazzina dei Mulini, but its history runs much deeper, with 16th-century Medici fortifications to defend against pirate raids around the coast, and medieval hill towns, some standing on sites occupied since Roman times, inland.

Beach lovers tend to divide between the white-pebble coves of Sansone and Capo Bianco near the largest town, Portoferraio, in the north, and the golden sands of Fetovaia and Cavoli in the south-west beneath Monte Capanne. Marina di Campo on the south coast is a favourite for watersports, and windsurfing and sailing schools are popular in many resorts, from Procchio in the north to Lacona in the south.

Hikers can explore the 36-mile (58km) Grande Traversata Elbana, crossing the island from Cavo in the north-east to Pomonte or Patresi on the west coast, passing along mountain ridges and through traditional villages. Usually completed in three or four days, it’s best tackled in spring or autumn.

Where to eat: In Portoferraio, Ristorante da Gianni is a favourite for handmade pasta, seafood and traditional cuisine. Try the house speciality, orecchiette with prawns and courgettes. In Marina di Campo, Da Piero serves seafood-focused dishes right on the beach.
Where to stay: Near Fetovaia, Hotel Montemerlo (doubles from about £88 B&B) offers a relaxed, eco-conscious stay among olive groves. In Marina di Campo, Hotel Punto Verde (doubles from about £90 B&B) is a charming family-run hotel near the beach. On the west coast Hotel Gallo Nero (doubles from £79) is a family-run hotel overlooking Capo Sant’Andrea Bay. In an 18th-century building in Portoferraio’s historic centre, Indarsena (doubles from £86 B&B) is 10 minutes’ walk from several beaches.
Getting there: Ferries from Piombino to Portoferraio take about an hour with Toremar, Moby or Blu Navy.

Giglio: the charming isle

At just 21 sq km, Giglio is small but has three villages, secluded coves, an extensive coastline and a landscape of historic terraced vineyards. Access for private vehicles is heavily restricted during August, with exceptions for longer stays, which helps preserve its peaceful atmosphere, while buses and taxis link the harbour, villages and beaches, so a car-free holiday is easy.

From Giglio Porto, trails lead to hidden coves and hilltop viewpoints, while the medieval lanes of Giglio Castello, a fortified 12th-century hilltop village, are perfect for an aperitivo and an evening stroll.

Beaches have distinct characters. Campese, on the north-west coast, is the largest, with reddish-gold sand and views of the 16th-century Torre del Campese. Cannelle, in the east, offers pale sand and crystalline water, while farther north, Arenella combines golden sand, granite boulders and clear water for snorkelling.

Where to eat: In Giglio Porto, Ristorante Doria is a seafood favourite with a sea-view terrace (try spaghetti alla chitarra with sea urchin and toasted breadcrumbs). In Campese, Da Zio Meino offers cucina povera (peasant cooking) such as pancotti di mare and spaghetti alle vongole e alla bottarga (with clams and cured mullet roe).
Where to stay: On a hillside overlooking Giglio Porto, B&B La Vela (doubles from £87 B&B) is a small guesthouse with maritime-themed interiors. On a headland above Campese Bay, Le Poste di Simplicio (doubles from £100 B&B) is a family-run B&B with sweeping sea views.
Getting there: Toremar or Maregiglio ferries run from Porto Santo Stefano to Giglio Porto in about an hour.

Capraia: a wild hikers’ paradise

Located just over 20 miles (33km) north-west of Elba, Capraia is one of the archipelago’s most remote islands. Largely car-free, with few roads, it is best explored on foot along mule tracks winding between sea cliffs, hidden coves and 16th-century Genoese fortifications, although taxi boats and a bus provide limited transport.

Highlights include the red rock formations of Cala Rossa, the Genoese fortress of San Giorgio and the 16th-century Torre dello Zenòbito.

Beaches are few, but swimmers can cool off at Cala San Francesco, hike to Cala del Ceppo and Cala dello Zurletto, or take a taxi boat to Spiaggia della Mortola, one of the few sandy stretches.

Where to eat: In the main village, the fixed menu at Il Carabottino changes according to what the local fishers happen to bring ashore, while Il Pigghiolo takes a more contemporary approach, reworking island flavours in dishes such as squid parmigiana and cod croquette.
Where to stay: Accommodation is limited, but La Mandola Eco Hostel (doubles from £70 room-only) near the port is a restorative basecamp for walkers, beachgoers and divers, with a sheltered saltwater pool. In Capraia village, Il Saracino Boutique Suites is a small, characterful retreat with sea views (doubles from £130 B&B).
Getting there: The ferry from Livorno takes 1 hour 45 minutes with Toremar.

Pianosa: the protected isle

Daily visitor numbers to Pianosa are restricted, helping preserve the island’s fragile environment and tranquil atmosphere. You can either buy a ticket on the limited ferry service or join an authorised guided excursion.

Roman remains (including early Christian catacombs) and abandoned prison buildings from when the island served as a penal colony offer glimpses of its history. And the restored Casa dell’Agronomo and Museo delle Scienze Geologiche e Archeologiche explore its agricultural, geological and archaeological heritage.

Guided walks, cycling and kayak excursions are among the best ways to explore. Swimming is restricted to Cala Giovanna, an easy walk from the small port and historic village, to help safeguard the marine ecosystem.

Where to eat: Da Brunello in the small harbour village is Pianosa’s only cafe/restaurant, with a focus on fresh fish and vegetables grown on the island.
Where to stay: Close to the cafe and run by the same management, the island’s only accommodation, Albergo Milena (doubles from £95 half-board) offers simple rooms in a historic building.
Getting there: There are authorised excursions from Elba with Acquavision (45 minutes), and limited Toremar ferry services run from Piombino to Pianosa (about three hours).

Giannutri: the roadless retreat

While Elba hums with holidaymakers and Vespas, this tiny, car-free limestone crescent, where scent-heavy macchia slopes into ink-blue waters, offers a radical detox from modern life.

With only one restaurant-cafe, which also functions as a small grocery shop, day trippers are advised to bring their own water and lunch. Most people swim at Cala Spalmatoio and Cala Maestra, while much of the coastline forms part of a protected marine reserve renowned for its diving and snorkelling. A guided tour of a Roman villa linked to the Domitii Ahenobarbi family is a must.

Where to eat: La Vela Giannutri, the island’s only dining option, focuses on seafood dishes, from tuna tartare to spaghetti alle vongole.
Where to stay: Accommodation is limited to the family-run A Casa Diana (doubles from £123 B&B), with simple rooms and sea views, and a scattering of holiday rentals.
Getting there: Maregiglio runs ferries from Porto Santo Stefano, or there are seasonal excursion boats (taking about an hour). In summer, Maregiglio also operates excursions and mini-cruises between Giglio and Giannutri.

Dorset’s take on the Mediterranean

Mudeford feels like one of England’s best-kept secrets, the sort of place visitors from abroad might never imagine exists here. Golden sand and sparkling water give it an almost Mediterranean feel, while Hengistbury Head adds beautiful coastal walks and wide-open views. Our perfect day is simple: arrive early, wander along the headland, let the children play on the beach, then stop at one of the relaxed cafes for lunch or an ice-cream. My tip is to take the little ferry across the harbour – it turns an already lovely day out into a proper seaside adventure.
Priti Singer

Lancashire’s Forest of Bowland

The Forest of Bowland covers a staggering 312 square miles of moorland, forests and valleys, dotted with the occasional village. It may be one of the best places for peace and quiet in England, and is also a Dark Skies area. It’s perfect for walkers and cyclists. I visited Gisburn forest (where I only met two other people during a five-hour hike); Barley village, which attracts lots of walkers who climb Pendle Hill; and, for spectacular scenery, a trip through the Trough of Bowland is a must. For town life, I’d recommend Skipton, a 35-minute drive away, which has it all with a castle, canal and plentiful shops and restaurants. It’s also the southern gateway to the Yorkshire Dales.
Cat

Crabbing and clean beaches in Suffolk

Walberswick is popular with walkers and birders, and young families who come here to relax and go swimming on the clean beach or crabbing in the creek. A brilliant way to arrive at the town is on the rowing-boat ferry (March to November) across the River Blyth from Southwold. It’s been in the same family for five generations. We had great seafood at heritage pubs like the Anchor and the Bell. Across the water, there’s a lot of wonderful fish shops and the famous Harbour Inn.
David Innes-Wilkin

In search of the Lundy Bunny, Devon

Lundy, off the north Devon coast, offers a hidden adventure for all ages by following the treasure trail of 27 Lundy letterboxes spread over the island. Some are wooden boxes, some metal, but they are all hidden. There’s a set of clues to follow, and stamps collected including the elusive Lundy Bunny. My two preteen boys and I loved our exploration of this remote granite island, binoculars and compass in hand, identifying letterboxes, birds and wildlife during our magical trip there.
Carol Godsmark

A spectacular rail trip in County Antrim

No trip I’ve made as an adult has matched the buzz of my annual childhood day trip from Derry to Portrush. The Troubles were at their peak but Portrush was still largely unscathed and had a totally different atmosphere to Derry. The journey was completed by train from Coleraine, and what a train journey it is. The train hogs the coast the whole way and we would be beside ourselves when the big dipper of Barry’s Amusements came into view. We would spend the morning on the beach, fish and chips for lunch and a few hours in Barry’s before heading home. Tuscany may be beautiful but do they sell sticks of rock?
Eve Kearney

An arty town in Shropshire

Foxholes campsite sits on a hill above the arty west Shropshire town of Bishop’s Castle. The views across the Shropshire hills are splendid, and a 10-minute walk through fields leads you past a stone Buddha into the town stretched along a medieval high street. Visit the House on Crutches museum to get a feel for Shropshire rural life history, and be sure to check out its two brilliant pubs: the Three Tuns is probably Britain’s oldest licensed brewery, having started in 1642, while the Six Bells provides an unpretentious family-friendly welcome. For us, though, the highlight was the Chai Shop and its charismatic owner Tahira. She serves delicious Indian snacks like bhajis and dal as well as traditional Indian sweets.
Matt Lunt

Camping in south Wales

We’re by no means an experienced camping family, but we pitched up on Rhydywernen Farm near Brecon after the last August bank holiday and were able to feed goats that were as happy and hoppy as it gets. Before falling asleep to the whisper of a nearby stream and mini-waterfalls, we spent time stargazing as there was no light pollution – it felt we were somehow closer to the stars. A cool stream helped soothe us after a day of hiking on Pen y Fan, the tallest peak in Britain south of Cadair Idris in Eryri (Snowdonia). We had only just bought a tent that summer and then we fell in love with Wales, so we keep coming back for more.
Izabela

Northumberland’s atmospheric border town

Berwick-upon-Tweed is one of those places that feels more dramatic than its size suggests. I have visited twice, and I loved simply walking around, camera in hand. Its slightly strange sense of being a border town seems to permeate everything. Stand beside the River Tweed and you can see three bridges together: the old Berwick Bridge, the elegant Royal Tweed Bridge and the great Victorian railway viaduct of the Royal Border Bridge. Add the Elizabethan walls, the North Sea and castle ruins, and Berwick feels perpetually poised between countries, centuries and land and sea. It makes a wonderfully atmospheric short break.
Susanna Callaghan

The natural wonders of the Wirral

The Wirral and its country park, south-west of Liverpool, is a brilliant under-the-radar place for a UK summer holiday, full of walks and beaches. Birkenhead Park is 57 hectares (140 acres) of meadows, fields, gardens, woodland, lakes and structures – we had picnics and family treasure hunts last summer. Opened in 1847, it inspired the 19th-century US landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted in his design of New York’s Central Park, so close your eyes and imagine you are in the Big Apple! Since 1995, it has been listed as a Grade I landscape by English Heritage. With its paths, fossil-hunting areas, bike trails and dramatic sunsets, Wirral country park helped us entertain our teenagers. Thurstaston beach and Port Sunlight village are great options too.
Nicoletta

Winning tip: Caribbean vibes on the Isle of Mull, Inner Hebrides

David Balfour’s Bay is a remote and breathtaking sandy bay with clear turquoise waters and pristine white sands in a stunning setting – the tidal island of Erraid, just off south-west Mull. The play of bright sunshine on crystal clear water and waves is dazzling – it’s a literally brilliant place to visit. Throw in a few palm trees and, on a clear day, you could imagine you were in Barbados – and the sea temperature can reach a pleasant 18C in August and September. To reach the bay, walk from lovely Knockvologan beach at low tide. This scenic walk can be extended to explore the north side of Erraid, where there are magnificent views of the Sound of Iona. Just be careful of tides so you don’t get caught there – a swim back is invigorating – as I found out after an overlong afternoon snooze when some lapping waves woke me up.
Peter