treetop

WITH its pretty timber-framed walls and stained-glass windows, even from the outside you can instantly tell The Old Inn is something special.

It’s been welcoming guests since 1614, but that doesn’t mean the hotel in the village of Crawfords-burn, Co Down, is stuck in a time warp.

Inside, it has been transformed into an oasis of modern luxury, and it has proved such a hit since it was bought by the Galgorm hotel group in 2021 that it was recently crowned the AA’s Hotel of the Year for Northern Ireland.

Now, with its stunning Treetop spa, it promises the ultimate romantic retreat – apt, because Narnia author CS Lewis chose it for his honeymoon in July 1958.

We stayed in one of the spacious junior suites, with a super-king bed and a stand-alone copper bath by the ornate bay window.

Antique furnishings maintain the 17th-century character, while the bathrooms are new and luxurious, with a marble sink and a vast rainfall shower.

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The attention to detail really makes it stand out from other 4* hotels, with lavish toiletries, fluffy robes and slippers, a GHD hairdryer, and free soft drinks in the fridge as well as a Nespresso coffee machine and minibar.

We spent most of our stay unwinding in the Treetop spa, which is without doubt the star of the show.

Hotel guests get access from noon on the day of check-in until check-out.

Overlooking the Crawfordsburn Country Park and surrounded by greenery, this outdoor haven features a heated hydrotherapy pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room.

Or you can also relax by a wood-fire stove in the cosy conservatory, taking in the forest views below, or indulge in a treatment such as a facial or massage.

But the best part is that you can order cocktails straight to the pool or your lounger.

On a Sunday morning, I was able to sweat out my multiple cocktails in the hotel’s new gym, which also offers various classes, including yoga.

As for food, the hotel’s charming 1614 Bar offers pub grub such as fish and chips and burgers.

For dinner, we headed into The Restaurant to try the a-la-carte menu.

It’s not cheap, but is excellent if you fancy splashing out.

To start, I had the white asparagus with shaved mushrooms, Irish coppa and truffled honey (£15), and for my main I had the monkfish with spring brassicas, mussels and buttermilk (£33) with a great bottle of white wine.

After dinner, we returned to the 1614 Bar for a nightcap or two with live music.

Breakfast is a continental buffet spread and guests can also order a la carte.

The hotel prides itself on its fresh food, so everything from fish to yoghurt at breakfast was local.

We then strolled through the park to Crawfordsburn beach.

A winding path takes you through woods, then the trees clear and you are on to the sweeping, sandy beach looking out over Belfast Lough.

You can see why CS Lewis chose this spot for his honeymoon – with stunning scenery on your doorstep and a warm welcome, it’s couples heaven.

THE bus swings round the hairpin bend with ease, climbing higher and higher into the clouds.

I’m grateful for the driver’s skill as the winding trip eventually takes us clear of the tree line to reveal Switzerland’s breathtaking scenery below.

The Laax Alp Nagens bus stop is a dizzying 2,263 metres above sea level — and the scenery gets more and more beautiful as we then hike along the mountains, which sit in the Sardona Tectonic Arena.

The Arena is an impressive natural geological phenomenon in the Swiss Alps, where tectonic movement has resulted in rocks up to 300million years old being pushed up above younger rock formed a mere 35 to 50million years ago.

It has been absurdly easy to get up here thanks to Switzerland’s world-class public transport.

Buses are a great way to get around but make sure you have some cash as you often have to buy a ticket on board.

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I’ve only got four days here in Laax, but that’s more than enough to get swept up in the magic of the Swiss Alps in spring.

While the snow still clings to the mountain peaks, along the valley floor below it the scenery turns from white to neon bright green, as the grass returns and trees and flowers burst into life.

Luckily, if your legs get tired on a hike, there are plenty of cable cars to get you back down to your accommodation. For me, that’s Laax’s Rocks Resort.

It’s an adventurer’s playground — ideal for families, thrill-seekers or anyone who just wants to fill their lungs with mountain air.

More a mini village than a resort, it boasts everything from the world’s longest treetop walk (1.56km) to skate parks, trampolines, basketball courts, swimming pools and more hiking and biking trails than you could ever tick off in one trip.

The hotel rooms are comfortable yet chic — and have a perfect view of the sprawling forest next door.

If you are travelling with family there’s comfortable one, two and three-bedroom apartments.

My room has the perfect view of the 30metre-drop bungee jump — and I perch myself on the window seat to read my book and watch kids and parents alike plunge off the ledge.

The room also gives me a great view of the 220-metre zipline over the skatepark and snake run.

But after a busy day of adventures through the forest, I’m starving.

Luckily, there’s nine restaurants and two coffee shops to choose from, as well as six bars and lounges.

Take your pick from Italian at the Ristorante Camino or spectacular vegetarian options at the Riders Restaurant.

From beetroot wine to local Swiss delicacies, this is a must-visit spot to chow down at.

Also on offer are Asian specialities at Ikigai, Swiss treats such as rosti potatoes at Tegia Larnags — and of course cheese fondue, at Casa Veglia.

You don’t need to look far for ways to work off all those calories though.

On a particularly gorgeous morning, we hire electric mountain bikes to explore the surrounding trails.

They snake through forests, over meadows and along ridges, each turn revealing another gasp-worthy vista.

The e-bike makes the uphill sections a breeze, while the downhills are fast and glorious.

Two hours in, we roll up to Lake Cauma — a jewel-toned lake so startlingly blue it feels almost artificial.

We refuel lakeside with a rich Toblerone mousse from Ustria La Cauma restaurant, with its terrace perched above the water.

Food, it turns out, is as much a part of the journey round these parts as the scenery. Menus are hyper-seasonal and full of heart.

And old traditions are not forgotten. As spring turns to summer, local farmers take their cows up to the high pastures, the cattle decorated with flower crowns and large bells.

And come the winter, for those who are keen on skiing and snowboarding, this resort will become the place to be — a perfect spot for spending a day on the slopes before scoffing down hot cheese fondue in the evening.

I will certainly be back.