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I explored the ‘Irish Amalfi Coast’ with Victorian seaside towns, pink palaces and new floating saunas

Collage of Ireland travel photos including a stone castle and pub, a scenic lake, and hikers on a coastal trail near Howth.

WHEN you picture Dublin, pints of Guinness in the Temple Bar district tend to be the first thing that spring to mind.

But this city is hiding a stunning coastline, with charming seaside towns, craggy castles and beaches so beautiful they’ve earned the stretch the nickname of the Amalfi Coast of Ireland.

The Dublin Coastal Trail stretches from Balbriggan to Killiney, where cliff walks overlook white sands Credit: Alamy
Enjoy the scenic views at Glendalough Valley and upper lake in County Wicklow Credit: Getty

Flights cost as little as £21 each way and take just over an hour, so it’s a no-brainer for a budget break combining city and sea.

I ventured along the Dublin Coastal Trail, which stretches from Balbriggan to Killiney, where cliff walks overlook white sands and there are puffin-spotting opportunities aplenty.

It’s fully accessible by public transport, too. I picked up a Dublin Transport Freedom Ticket from £42, which offers 72 hours worth of travel on buses, trams and the Dart (the coastal train linking these spots).

The first stop on my adventure was Dun Laoghaire, a Victorian seaside town around 15 minutes from Dublin city centre by Dart.

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I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

My base was the Royal Marine Hotel, a majestic pink palace that once hosted Frank Sinatra.

A short walk brings you to the Forty Foot, a rocky bathing pool featured in James Joyce’s novel Ulysses and, more recently, on Apple TV’s Bad Sisters.

Locals brave the chilly water year-round, even on Christmas Day, so with the sun shining, I had no excuse.

Plus, visitors can soon warm up at the harbour’s new Helios floating sauna (£21.50pp) where a magnificent floor-to-ceiling window frames paddle-boarders and moored yachts.

Dublin’s is answer to Beverly Hills with medieval streets and cliffside mansions favoured by celebs Credit: Alamy
Jenna with a spaniel pup at coastal Irish pub The Bloody Stream in Howth Credit: Supplied

Tick off a steak dinner from Casper & Giumbini’s and a delicious treat from Teddy’s ice cream parlour and you’ve done Dun Laoghaire right.

My next stop along the coast was Dalkey, Dublin’s answer to Beverly Hills.

With winding medieval streets and cliffside mansions, it’s an A-list enclave where you might glimpse residents Bono or Enya.

But I wasn’t here for celeb-spotting. It was the seal-spotting I cared about.

A kayak tour (£77) with local guide Jenny took us past seals posing on rocks in curved banana shapes — a sign they feel totally chillaxed, Jenny explained.

We then paddled past bioluminescent moon jellyfish weaving around bladderwrack seaweed, before looping back to Dun Laoghaire, ready for dinner.

This time I gave Hartley’s restaurant a go, where baked salmon followed by a peanut butter brownie rewarded my slightly aching limbs. And if peanut butter brownies sound up your street, you’ll love Blackrock, just over five minutes away by Dart.

This suburb is a bustling hub of artisan bakeries and home to a vintage weekend market you could easily lose hours in.

Armed with a flat white and an iced cinnamon roll from trendy cafe Hatch, I hit the market to sift through a bohemian treasure trove of retro records, vintage dresses and jingling chimes.

This gem of a spot could only be topped by Howth, which might just be my favourite Irish suburb.

Here I met Mark, a local whose Coastal Hike With Pints & Puppies tour (GetYourGuide, £40pp) ticked off a dream combination of activities.

We headed for the Howth Cliff Path on a two-hour loop which offers hands-down Dublin’s most spectacular coastal views.

As we passed turquoise waters shimmering beneath moss-topped cliffs, we came to a lighthouse on a strip of land jutting out over the sea, otherwise known as the Nose of Howth.

In the distance was the small island of Ireland’s Eye, where playful puffins nest.

At local pub The Bloody Stream, Mark’s spaniel puppies (who are likely closer to adulthood by now) mingle with the group.

Mark told me he’s the happiest man in the world to show off the beauty of his town for a living, and I believe him.

If you’re wanting to venture further than Dublin, you can hop on a day’s coach trip with Wild Rover Tours.

The Kilkenny, Wicklow & Glendalough Day Tour (£37) gives you a fast-pass to the neighbouring counties’ best scenery.

Our tour began in Kilkenny, a maze-like medieval city packed with witchy history.

Kilkenny saw Ireland’s first witch trial — that of Alice Kyteler in 1324 — and today you can dine in Kyteler’s Inn, her rumoured former home, marked by the swinging sign of a black cat.

From there we rolled into Glendalough, a glacial valley famous for its glittering twin lakes. After an easy circular loop, we rounded out the afternoon at Cullens Sheep Farm, where farmer Richie led an impressive sheepdog-herding demonstration.

The best part, however, was getting to snuggle up with an adorable fluffy lamb.

You don’t get that at Temple Bar.

GO: DUBLIN COASTAL TRAIL

GETTING THERE: British Airways has return flights from London to Dublin from £42. See ba.com.

STAYING THERE: The Royal Marine Hotel has rooms from £111 per night on a room-only basis. See royalmarine.ie.

MORE INFO: See ireland.com.

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Fine scenery, historic towns and great pubs: a weekend walk on the Shropshire Way | Walking holidays

Few pubs boast a more idyllic setting. As I emerge from the woods after a 15-mile hike, The Bridges, on the banks of the Onny River, in the rolling south Shropshire hills, glistens in the late afternoon sun. Inside it’s all wooden beams, with light streaming through stained glass and huge bunches of homegrown flowers adding splashes of colour. There’s time for a pint before general manager Sam Thompson shows me to my room in the recently converted stables.

I’m here exploring part of the 185-mile (297km) Shropshire Way, on a two-day Heart of the Hills hike – one of the county tourist board’s new Rail-Ready Short Breaks. Designed for people who don’t have time to tackle the whole route, the itineraries focus on loops that are easy to access by train, with illustrated PDF downloads, GPX files, accommodation suggestions and highlights of what to do along the way. My route will take me from Shrewsbury to Bishop’s Castle via Ratlinghope – about 27 miles, perfect for a weekend.

The Bridges pub in Ratlinghope.

Shrewsbury itself is worth lingering in – the historic market town is crammed with independent shops and restaurants (I loved Csons for its creative small plates) and impressive Tudor architecture. But I’m most intrigued to learn that beavers have been reintroduced here by the council and the Shropshire Wildlife Trust. The first kit in the county in 400 years was born late last year and the Trust’s Tom Freeland shows me around the site, the Old River Bed nature reserve, just two miles north of the town centre. A boardwalk crossing wetlands allows an up-close view of the rewilding project. Although we don’t spy the elusive creatures (we see heron and plenty of moorhen), there’s still lots to learn. “It’s been a great success in inspiring the community to find out more about our local wildlife,” says Tom. Nature talks and guided tours of the beaver enclosure are in the pipeline, too.

Shrewsbury Square, Shropshire. Photograph: Nik Reates/Alamy

Back at my base, the 16th-century Lion + Pheasant townhouse hotel, I dine on pan-roasted trout in the beamed restaurant (there’s a popular wine and tapas bar on site too) and the next morning set off to walk the first leg to Ratlinghope. Crossing the River Severn, the city soon peters out and quiet country lanes lead to Lyth Hill Country Park where expansive views open up across Shropshire.

It’s a steady climb to Wilderley Hill, past fields of rape, bright patches of yellow in a sea of green, and I stop under an oak tree to picnic. There’s no one around, just the songs of wren and chaffinch filling the air. The landscape changes on the approach to Ratlinghope as the route traces a brook, crosses wooden bridges and winds through pretty woodland. Just off the path lies the 12th-century St Margaret’s Church, the burial place of 19th-century farmer Richard Munslow, the last known “sin-eater”, whose job it was to eat bread and drink ale over corpses to absorb their sins.

I enjoy a drink instead in the pretty beer garden at The Bridges. The seven immaculate, minimalist rooms are round an adjacent courtyard – and guests have access to a lounge above the pub, too. The food in the bar includes Guinness rarebit and duck terrine, while the light-filled restaurant focuses on organic fare from the owners’ regenerative farm on the Linley Estate and the Welsh Marches. I feast on huge radishes with anchoïade, and hake with fennel, capers and crispy polenta. Breakfast the next morning – homemade granola and poached rhubarb – is equally delicious. It’s such a lively, friendly place I’m tempted to move nearby for the pub alone. They’ll even drive locals home if they’ve had one too many, Sam tells me.

Blue skies and gentle sunshine greet me for day two of the hike, a 12-mile yomp across rugged moorland and pastures to Bishop’s Castle. The pub lies on the edge of the Long Mynd, a heath and moorland plateau, but I’m heading north to the Stiperstones, a national nature reserve with a wild, dramatic ridge of quartzite rock formations that pierce the ground. I climb higher, passing Devil’s Chair tor, watching skylarks and buzzards soar overhead.

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The Devil’s Chair on the Stiperstones Ridge, Shropshire. Photograph: Vincent Lowe/Alamy

It’s a beautiful walk. After several hours, a magnificent avenue of Linley Beeches line the descent into Bishop’s Castle, a pretty town of half-timbered houses. Bank House B&B, a Georgian renovation with an oak-panelled drawing room and five antique-filled rooms, is my home for the night. I pop into the Poetry Pharmacy where prescriptions are poems chosen to spark specific emotions, to be “taken” when required (I leave with a bottle of Joy). Although little remains of the medieval castle that once stood here and gives the town its name, the grand Castle Hotel, with its pretty gardens and welcoming restaurant, is worth a visit.

With more time, I could, of course, carry on and add another loop of the trail. But the train back home beckons – Craven Arms station is a short bus or taxi ride away – and I leave feeling pleased to have dipped my toe into a small segment of the Shropshire Way. As far as rambling weekends go, it’s ticked all the right boxes, and whetted my appetite to discover more.

The trip was provided by Visit Shropshire and train travel from London to Shropshire was by Visit England. The Bridges has rooms from £120 a night. The Lion + Pheasant has rooms from £140 a night. Bank House B&B has rooms from £110 a night. Luggage transfer was provided by Silver Sherpa and costs from £30 a day for 1-3 bags

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I stayed at the 18th century hotel in one of England’s prettiest towns that feels like stepping into Pride & Prejudice

A cozy bedroom with a bed featuring a yellow and green floral headboard, a mustard yellow throw blanket, and a green armchair by a slanted window.

IF you love fantastic food and hotels that make you feel like you’ve stepped into Pride & Prejudice, we have just the place for you.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at The George In Rye in East Sussex.

Here’s everything you need to know about a stay at the George In Rye

Where is The George in Rye?

Slap bang in the middle of town, you won’t miss The George in Rye – the Georgian House is painted in an easily-spottable salmon pink.

What’s it like?

The Grade II listed building dates back to 1575, welcoming three previous King Georges.

And the hotel has masterfully toed the line of restoring its heritage while modernising just enough.

Think old wooden staircases and low beamed bars next to trendy cocktail menus.

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What are the rooms like?

The exterior of the hotel doesn’t betray the maze of the building which saw me go down stairs, up stairs and through courtyards to find my tucked away room.

Bold pattern wallpapers and vintage furniture were offset by brushed brass lights and DAB radios.

My king-size bed was deliciously sink-into-able, while the lounge area was the best spot for a cup of tea and a biscuit, all complimentary.

The larger rooms – I was staying in their Junior Suite – have roll top baths, so you better believe I hopped straight in, making the most of the free Verbon toiletries.

It even has a tiny outdoor patio and table and chairs for you to have a coffee in the warmer months.

If you’re on a budget, opt for their Cosy Rooms which are more compact but just as gorgeous. Rooms start from £125 a night. See thegeorgeinrye.com.

The rooms are beautifully designed, with floral accents throughout
The restaurant’s deep red walls made it a cosy place to spend an evening

What is there to eat and drink?

The restaurant is a must, even if you aren’t a guest at the hotel.

The Grill is the epitome of cosiness with deep red walls, low lighting and the perfect level of lo-do music.

And it has a delightfully concise menu – I hate having too many options.

My smoked salmon salsa to start was refreshingly zingy and fresh, and just light enough to line my stomach before devouring their rib eye steak. 

My dessert was the star of the show, with super sweet macerated strawberries offset by kalamata ice cream and marshmallow.

If you want to swap the pudding for a cocktail, The Dragon Bar has a great menu which also includes wines and beers.

Try the drink of the season – a Sarti Spritz – or my favourite, the aptly named Dragon Mojito.

(Come back for breakfast too – my Mimosa and Hastings Kipper went down a treat).

Why not grab a drink in the lobby by the fire?
Or try a cocktail or two at Dragon Bar

What else is there?

As tempting as it is to stay at the hotel, the town of Rye needs to be explored.

Grab a decadent hot chocolate from Knoops, before walking the cobbles paths of Mermaid Lane, which look straight out of a fairytale.

Beach days aren’t far away either, with Camber Sands beach just down the road too.

Is it family friendly?

The hotel has some rooms that are perfect for kids, with the Luxury Rooms and Junior Suites able to fit kids beds

Is it accessible?

There is an accessible room which can be accessed by the ground floor lift, which can also take you to the ballroom.

However being such an old building, there may be some issues with getting around the rest of the hotel.



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Strict UK beach rules are lifted across hundreds of seaside towns from today

A STRICT beach rule is set to be lifted today after being enforced for more than five months.

Hundreds of seaside locations across the UK will now be open to all visitors.

Two Golden Retriever Dogs running together while looking at each other on a sandy beach
Your four-legged friend will be allowed on Britain’s beaches from today Credit: getty

Dog walkers will be able to walk their pets on Britain’s beaches once more, as the seasonal ban is lifted today (October 1).

More than 600 coastal areas across the UK will now welcome a host of four-legged friends, with dogs able to visit the sites any time of the day.

The rule typically comes into force from May until the end of September, which sees dogs banned from beaches entirely or restricted to certain areas.

Other councils place timed entry restrictions, where pups are not allowed at the seaside during the busiest periods – usually from 10am to 6pm.

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The rules come under Public Spaces Protection Orders (PSPOs), which can result in fixed penalties when breached.

In this case, first-time offenders may be given a penalty of £100, with a maximum fine of £500.

However, even with the ban lifted, some councils still require dogs to be on leads while walking on footpaths, promenades, piers and zig zags.

The seasonal ban comes every year with the aim of keeping beaches clean and safe during the busier summer months, especially when children may be visiting the coast.

Foul left behind by pets can also act as a major health hazard – even if the majority of dog owners are responsible enough to pick it up.

The rules do not apply to guide dogs, who are allowed on beaches at all times while working and in a harness.

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Jet2 to launch 34 new flight routes with winter sun destinations up to 24C and picture perfect Disney-like towns

YOU’LL be able to travel to 34 more destinations with Jet2 from the UK soon.

The airline is launching a number of new routes for Winter 26/27, with destinations including winter sun spots, city breaks and pretty Christmas markets.

Jet2 is launching 34 new routes including winter sun spots with 25C weather in December Credit: Getty
Other destinations will be across Europe, such as Spain and Denmark Credit: Alamy

It marks the airline’s biggest winter programme as well as its first winter season from London Gatwick Airport.

Destinations in Europe include La Palma in Spain, Copenhagen in Denmark and Vienna in Austria.

Though, you can head further afield too as there are flights to two spots in Egypt – Hurghada and Sharm El Sheikh – as well as a route to Agadir in Morocco.

For some winter sun with temperatures up to 24C in December, fly to Hurghada in Egypt.

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The Egyptian resort city sits on the Red Sea and is the ideal spot to head off scuba diving to see colourful coral reefs.

And there is sunshine year-round.

You’ll get the best of both worlds too as after exploring the water you can head to the desert, for a quad biking or camel riding experience.

Another destination getting Jet2 flights is a city that feels more like stepping into a Disney movie.

Often referred to as a fairytale city due to its winding medieval streets, Tallinn in Estonia takes just three hours to get to from the UK.

You could also head to a number of destinations with great Christmas markets – such as Tallinn Credit: Mark Hannah

The old town of the city is full of interesting shops as well as grand medieval churches and walls.

For a city centre, it is very quiet as well.

And if you happen to visit in December, go the Christmas market, full of chalets selling handmade Estonian gifts as well as glögi – which is essentially Estonian mulled wine.

At the centre of the market is the world’s oldest recorded public Christmas tree as well, which dates back to 1441.

Steve Heapy, CEO of Jet2, said: “We are seeing strong demand from customers and independent travel agents for all kinds of winter holidays, so we have responded by putting a fantastic selection of brand-new routes on sale for Winter 26/27.

“Whether holidaymakers want winter sun, a festive Christmas market break, a ski holiday to the Alps or a city break, this expanded programme gives them more choice and flexibility than ever before.

“The addition of 34 new winter routes, three new destinations and our first winter season from London Gatwick Airport shows how we are continuing to grow in direct response to demand.

“This is about giving customers more of what they want for winter, with an exciting mix of destinations that caters for every type of getaway.”

Flights for the new routes cost from as little as £30 per way.

And if you don’t want to wait, the airline currently has 6.3 million seats on sale to 42 destinations for this winter.

Full list of the 34 new destinations

  • From Birmingham Airport: Copenhagen (Denmark); Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada (Egypt)
  • From Bristol Airport: Cologne (Germany)
  • From East Midlands Airport: Agadir (Morocco); Gdansk (Poland); Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada (Egypt)
  • From Edinburgh Airport: Strasbourg (France)
  • From Glasgow Airport: Hurghada (Egypt)
  • From Leeds Bradford Airport: Tallinn (Estonia); Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada (Egypt)
  • From London Gatwick Airport: Agadir (Morocco); Funchal (Portugal); Tallinn (Estonia); Vienna (Austria); Cologne (Germany); Gdansk (Poland); Grenoble (France); Turin (Italy); Geneva (Switzerland); Salzburg (Austria); Chambery (France); Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada (Egypt)
  • From Manchester Airport: Strasbourg (France); Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada (Egypt)
  • From London Stansted Airport: La Palma (Spain); Strasbourg (France); Innsbruck (Austria); Sharm El Sheikh and Hurghada (Egypt)



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I stayed at the historic pub in one of England’s trendiest seaside towns

The George & Heart House in Margate, Kent.

IF you want a historic stay in one of the UK’s coolest seaside towns, we’ve found one of the best.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at Margate‘s The George & Heart House.

One of Margate’s most stylish places to stay is The George & Heart House Credit: Supplied
The pub dates back to the 18th century Credit: Supplied

Where is The George & Heart House?

You couldn’t ask for a much better spot from which to explore Margate.

Across the road are the Old’s Town’s vintage shops, cafes and pubs while just a five-minute walk away is the beach as well as the Turner Contemporary art gallery and retro amusement park Dreamland, both of which are free to enter.

Margate train station is a ten-minute stroll from the hotel.

What’s it like?

Sat on the edge of Margate’s Old Town, this revamped 18th-century coaching inn is full of character.

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The charming interior features exposed brickwork, velvets, fringes and drapes with eco-friendly up-cycled furniture and a colour scheme of pink and dark green.

What are the rooms like?

There are six compact rooms designed by Kent creatives, all with their own unique style and names.

Among them, Burley & Field has Art Deco and Oriental influences while Home Alone With Mrs Jones is a riot of 1970s Biba-style imagery.

There is also the plush and spacious Heritage Suite, where I stayed, which takes up an entire floor.

It comes with two bedrooms and a big living space complete with a small kitchen area, two sofas, wall-mounted flatscreen TV and a dining table.

Double rooms with breakfast cost from £90. See georgeandheart.com.

The hotel is the perfect base for exploring the rest of Margate Credit: Supplied

What is there to eat and drink?

Definitely eat here. The restaurant delivers mainly pub classics, including burgers and fish and chips, but also more elaborate dishes such as pork Milanese.

I had the halibut in a tomato and caper sauce with new potatoes and tenderstem broccoli which was perfectly cooked and delicious.

In the summer you can also dine in the pub’s airy Stables Courtyard.

The breakfast is continental, including juices, muesli, fruit, croissants, ham and cheese.

What else is there to do?

The hotel has a Zen Den, which offers massages and facials by appointment, but can also be used by guests for morning stretches or meditation.

Is it family friendly?

The hotel’s two-bedroom Heritage Suite sleeps four, so works for families.

Is it accessible?

Due to being a historic pub, the hotel is not wheelchair accesible



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California prison towns grasp for new jobs after closures

California prison towns made a grim bargain decades ago.

They built their economies around an industry that relied on an ever-growing prison population, mostly from California’s major metropolitan areas. Then, about 15 years ago, legislators changed sentencing laws in ways that caused the prison population to drop, and the prisons started going away.

Gov. Jerry Brown oversaw massive reductions in California’s prison population in the 2010s. Gov. Gavin Newsom has closed five prisons since taking office in 2019. Now, some of those towns face difficult choices if they’re going to survive. One prison town is still fighting the closure, one is betting on businesses to make up its losses and a third — the town of Susanville — is remote, isolated and in deeper trouble than the rest.

Perched on one of the last major stops before Reno and the desert deep in the Lassen National Forest, Susanville has always been the kind of place California puts the things it doesn’t want to see, hear, smell or really even think about.

“Prisons in communities are not popular, so they tend to be located in areas that are desperate economically,” said Dan Newton, who worked for the city of Susanville for 20 years and was its city manager until recently. “That would describe this area.”

The city’s management was informed in 2021 that the prison was scheduled for closure. They went to court to challenge the closure, arguing the state’s environmental review process hadn’t taken into account the prison closure’s impact on the town. Newsom had a solution: A budget bill that exempted correctional facility closures from the environmental review process.

“There was initially a lot of panic,” said Susanville Mayor Mendy Schuster. “Houses went on the market. People left town. State jobs are good jobs with a good income, and they were going to leave.”

Since the closure announcement, the population of Susanville has fallen from a peak of about 16,000 in 2021, the year Newsom announced the prison would close, to 14,000 in 2024, the last year for which American Community Survey data were available.

Not all of the 1,100 former prison employees left town. Some transferred to a nearby prison, and some retired and stayed in the area. The elementary school lost 10% of its enrolled students between 2021 and the 2025-2026 school year.

The town’s remoteness is also one of its attractions. The surrounding area offers some of the most stunning vistas in far Northern California, sweeping views from highway lookout points over miles of desert rimmed by the mountains of the Cascade Range where it meets the Sierra Nevada.

The history of this area is one of the state or federal government telling its residents that it needs them — to mine for gold, to cut down trees for timber, to guard all the people they sent to prison — and then coming along later to tell residents that their services are no longer needed.

Susanville, the spot on the map, is an immutable intermingling of unique geologic formations. Susanville, the incorporated city, is running out of time.

“We’re heading toward insolvency,” Newton said before he resigned as city manager to take a position in Tehama County government.

The prison building boom

When the state’s three-strikes law still imposed mandatory life sentences on anyone with two or more prior convictions for violent felonies, California needed places like Susanville to put its skyrocketing prison population.

According to Brown University’s Prison Proliferation Project, states and the federal government operated 511 prisons in 1970. By the end of the prison building boom in 2000, that number had risen to 1,663.

The prison guards who lived in Susanville coached Little League and bought bread at the bakery downtown. They had steady jobs with top-tier health and retirement benefits; today experienced correctional officers earn $9,650 a month in base pay.

The town benefited from carceral policies that pulled prisoners hundreds of miles from their families, even as Lassen County counted those inmates as residents until 2022 and built around a prison boom that showed no signs of ending.

Until, of course, it did.

In 2006, overcrowding forced some of the state’s 170,000 prisoners to sleep in hallways and multipurpose rooms. But sentencing policies changed in the early 2010s to put more people in jail than prisons, and when people went to prison, they went for shorter sentences. Now, the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation is down to 90,000 prisoners, and has 8,000 more beds available than it has people in custody.

An emergent field of research in the last 15 years has focused on the era of the “prison bust,” when prison closures have outnumbered prison openings. Criminal justice policy researchers have found that the proposed economic benefits of prisons to small, rural communities were probably overstated to begin with.

“A large portion of prison jobs (were) filled by residents of neighboring towns,” wrote the authors of a 2024 article in the journal Punishment & Society. “Even those who moved to the area for prison jobs often settled in adjacent communities, providing little direct benefit to the local economy.”

Not only might prisons not be engines of economic growth, according to a seminal 2010 study from researchers at Washington State University, they might have stymied the development of other industries warded off by the presence of the prison.

Brown University associate sociology professor John Eason, whose book “Big House on the Prairie” focused on a prison in the rural South, found that the economic fate of prison towns is most closely correlated to when they were built, more than where they were built.

“Towns that adopted prisons earlier in the prison boom received a short-term boon compared to those that did not build, but the effects were not lasting,” Eason wrote.

Towns that built a prison early in the boom saw increased median home values and median income, Eason wrote, with reduced poverty and unemployment, but those effects did not last longer than a decade, which he called “a decay effect.”

But the residents and leadership of the city of Blythe, where the shuttered Chuckwalla Valley State Prison was built in 1987, are certain that their economic problems began and ended on the day in 2022 when the prison closed down.

Desert town tried to keep prison open

“We still haven’t got nothing from the state,” said Blythe Mayor Joseph DeConinck. “I hate to say it, but Blythe’s in the middle of nowhere, we’re the furthest from Sacramento, I just hate to say it again, we’re only a few votes out here.”

The mayor of the small desert city in Riverside County near the Arizona border watched the failed lawsuit over the Susanville prison closure and decided against filing their own litigation after Newsom ordered the Blythe prison closed just before Christmas 2022.

Instead, Blythe chose honey over vinegar and launched a lobbying effort to convince state legislators and the governor that the town needed some kind of economic rescue.

It has, so far, failed to produce results.

“We took these prisons when nobody else wanted them,” DeConinck said. “And we adapted to them because they became a strong economic generator for our area.”

Blythe’s population of 18,000 in 2022 had fallen to 17,400 by 2024, the last year for which census statistics are available. A drop of just 3% of the population might not sound drastic, but Blythe was in trouble long before the prison closed.

The population has been dropping since a peak of about 20,000 in 2010. A Riverside County civil investigation in June 2022 found that the city can’t pay its bills, its population is fleeing to Phoenix or the Coachella Valley, and neither the city nor its residents have bright prospects.

Six months after that investigation, Newsom announced the prison closure.

DeConinck said city leadership flew to Sacramento and tried, in vain, to get any traction. He recalled one meeting between the Blythe city manager and representatives of the governor in which he said the city itself was promised direct financial assistance.

The era of sweet-talking the state is over now, DeConinck said.

“They wouldn’t even have a conversation with us,” said Vice Mayor Johnny Rodriguez. “They’re not doing anything to assist us because they have this political mantra that all prisons are bad.”

Rodriguez said the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation and the Department of General Services sent representatives to a meeting on the future of the shuttered prison site. It didn’t go well.

“We had just one meeting with a potential developer who had some interest in it, and all the state provided was, what you can’t do, what they won’t do,” Rodriguez said. “They won’t give a timeline when they would start talking about it, so what’s that going to do?”

Newsom’s office referred questions to the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation.

Will Matthews, a corrections spokesperson, said in a statement after this article first published that the state sent $995,000 to the Riverside County Workforce Development Division in August 2024.

“State representatives met with local leaders in July 2024 to discuss these resources and other available assistance,” Matthews said. “There was no commitment to providing direct financial assistance to the City of Blythe.”

Matthews said until the Blythe prison site’s infrastructure is separated from neighboring Ironwood State Prison and its bond obligations are resolved, the property can’t move through the state’s process for dispensing with surplus property.

In a March hearing before a Senate budget subcommittee, Corrections Secretary Jeff Macomber said he’s eager to end his agency’s control over closed prison sites.

“I don’t want to hold on to closed facilities,” Macomber said. “Believe it or not, I have to provide a little bit of staffing. It’s unpopular, there’s security risks. We have people break in because who doesn’t want to run in, to break into a closed prison?”

Newsom began closing prisons with the deactivation of the Deuel Vocational Institute in Tracy, followed by the prison in Susanville, and then a prison in Blythe near the Arizona border. The state also ended its contract with a private prison in Kern County, a site now being operated as an immigrant detention center. A prison in Norco, also in Riverside County, is scheduled to close in October.

More prisons probably will close. The Legislature this year passed a budget that called for the state to shut at least one more. Its passage reflected Democratic lawmakers’ desire to save money — about $150 million a year per prison — by eliminating underused correctional facilities.

And some state prisons have astronomical deferred maintenance bills. The state auditor recently released a report estimating that five of them need repairs that would cost $2.4 billion.

Rodriguez is still fighting for a prison on the shuttered site. He has plans to pitch the federal government on opening a women’s prison there to account for the closure of the Federal Correctional Institution in Dublin, which closed after 10 guards were charged with sexually abusing the prisoners.

“Closing Chuckawalla was a mistake,” said Assemblymember Jeff Gonzalez, a Coachella Republican. “For our rural communities, these facilities are critical employers that support local families and local economies.”

Ready for change on edge of Bay Area

If any town was prepared for a prison closure, it was Tracy.

Optimism abounds, even on the city website, which promotes it as “one of the fastest growing suburbs of the San Francisco Bay Area.” The city has for decades been a bedroom community for commuters to the East Bay Area and San José.

The offers are pouring in to fill the abandoned prison site, said San Joaquin County Supervisor Robert Rickman, who was mayor of Tracy from 2016-2020.

“We’ve been in contact with folks in the agricultural industry, the education industry and even some of them who are interested in opening a casino,” Rickman said. “I would say [the prison closure] was neutral. The property isn’t sitting forgotten. South county is a very prosperous portion of our county.”

Prison guards and support staff mainly transferred to the California Health Care Facility in Stockton, Rickman said.

“I guess you’re never really prepared for a closure,” Rickman said, “but the good thing is that nobody lost their jobs.”

Tracy has the advantages that Susanville does not: It’s next to Interstate 5 along a busy commercial corridor in a populated and growing section of the state. Tracy also doesn’t have the drawbacks of Blythe and the Inland Empire desert — the weather never gets too hot, and there is reliable access to water.

Instead of challenging the state government like Blythe, Rickman gets to play host and pitch man to businesses.

Back in Susanville, it’s been a struggle to get any business to return calls.

Hard choices in Susanville

“For the last two years, we’ve adopted deficit budgets,” said Newton, the erstwhile city manager. “We’re deficit spending in order to fill public safety vacancies, and expenditure increases are outpacing our revenue increases.

“It’s going to start eating at our cash reserves.”

The town is hoping some industry — any industry — can come in and save it. City leaders have little hope for state assistance. But the city also has its own limitations.

First, Newton said, it’s hard to make a businesses on the border of California and Nevada choose California, with its higher taxes and stern regulatory environment. That choice in finance terms is known as regulatory arbitrage.

Second, industry needs power, and Susanville doesn’t have a lot of power on the grid, nor the infrastructure to support it. A bad thunderstorm can knock out the lights to half the city. The city’s transmission lines can’t handle the wattage demanded by heavy industry.

Third, the city and county’s limited population is working against it. Prisons force people to work and live in an area, and the state supplies the workforce. But there is no big workforce base on which to draw for any industry. When the prisons close, the guards transfer to new locations or retire and leave the rural, geographically isolated area.

The pandemic didn’t help. Downtown businesses were already struggling when people started buying more retail goods online, a trend that didn’t abate when lockdowns ended, Schuster said.

Now, some of the largest tax generators in town are on sales from online shopping and fuel taxes — people stop in town to get gas because Susanville has the only gas stations for 20 miles in any direction.

A baseball grandstand burned down last year, and in March, a lumber mill that employed about 30 people caught fire. No one was injured, but the mill burned to the ground.

Now the 8,000 people in this remote corner of California have to ask themselves what more they can wring from the land, what more they can take and what more it can yield. One idea includes a new truck stop.

Whatever salvation comes for the town, if any salvation comes at all, won’t be at the hands of the state government that built a prison and then took it away, Newton said.

“No one is coming to save us.”

This article was updated to include information that the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation shared after publication.

Duara writes for CalMatters.

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