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IF you want a historic stay in one of the UK’s coolest seaside towns, we’ve found one of the best.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at Margate‘s The George & Heart House.

Where is The George & Heart House?

You couldn’t ask for a much better spot from which to explore Margate.

Across the road are the Old’s Town’s vintage shops, cafes and pubs while just a five-minute walk away is the beach as well as the Turner Contemporary art gallery and retro amusement park Dreamland, both of which are free to enter.

Margate train station is a ten-minute stroll from the hotel.

What’s it like?

Sat on the edge of Margate’s Old Town, this revamped 18th-century coaching inn is full of character.

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The charming interior features exposed brickwork, velvets, fringes and drapes with eco-friendly up-cycled furniture and a colour scheme of pink and dark green.

What are the rooms like?

There are six compact rooms designed by Kent creatives, all with their own unique style and names.

Among them, Burley & Field has Art Deco and Oriental influences while Home Alone With Mrs Jones is a riot of 1970s Biba-style imagery.

There is also the plush and spacious Heritage Suite, where I stayed, which takes up an entire floor.

It comes with two bedrooms and a big living space complete with a small kitchen area, two sofas, wall-mounted flatscreen TV and a dining table.

Double rooms with breakfast cost from £90. See georgeandheart.com.

What is there to eat and drink?

Definitely eat here. The restaurant delivers mainly pub classics, including burgers and fish and chips, but also more elaborate dishes such as pork Milanese.

I had the halibut in a tomato and caper sauce with new potatoes and tenderstem broccoli which was perfectly cooked and delicious.

In the summer you can also dine in the pub’s airy Stables Courtyard.

The breakfast is continental, including juices, muesli, fruit, croissants, ham and cheese.

What else is there to do?

The hotel has a Zen Den, which offers massages and facials by appointment, but can also be used by guests for morning stretches or meditation.

Is it family friendly?

The hotel’s two-bedroom Heritage Suite sleeps four, so works for families.

Is it accessible?

Due to being a historic pub, the hotel is not wheelchair accesible

California prison towns made a grim bargain decades ago.

They built their economies around an industry that relied on an ever-growing prison population, mostly from California’s major metropolitan areas. Then, about 15 years ago, legislators changed sentencing laws in ways that caused the prison population to drop, and the prisons started going away.

Gov. Jerry Brown oversaw massive reductions in California’s prison population in the 2010s. Gov. Gavin Newsom has closed five prisons since taking office in 2019. Now, some of those towns face difficult choices if they’re going to survive. One prison town is still fighting the closure, one is betting on businesses to make up its losses and a third — the town of Susanville — is remote, isolated and in deeper trouble than the rest.

Perched on one of the last major stops before Reno and the desert deep in the Lassen National Forest, Susanville has always been the kind of place California puts the things it doesn’t want to see, hear, smell or really even think about.

“Prisons in communities are not popular, so they tend to be located in areas that are desperate economically,” said Dan Newton, who worked for the city of Susanville for 20 years and was its city manager until recently. “That would describe this area.”

The city’s management was informed in 2021 that the prison was scheduled for closure. They went to court to challenge the closure, arguing the state’s environmental review process hadn’t taken into account the prison closure’s impact on the town. Newsom had a solution: A budget bill that exempted correctional facility closures from the environmental review process.

“There was initially a lot of panic,” said Susanville Mayor Mendy Schuster. “Houses went on the market. People left town. State jobs are good jobs with a good income, and they were going to leave.”

Since the closure announcement, the population of Susanville has fallen from a peak of about 16,000 in 2021, the year Newsom announced the prison would close, to 14,000 in 2024, the last year for which American Community Survey data were available.

Not all of the 1,100 former prison employees left town. Some transferred to a nearby prison, and some retired and stayed in the area. The elementary school lost 10% of its enrolled students between 2021 and the 2025-2026 school year.

The town’s remoteness is also one of its attractions. The surrounding area offers some of the most stunning vistas in far Northern California, sweeping views from highway lookout points over miles of desert rimmed by the mountains of the Cascade Range where it meets the Sierra Nevada.

The history of this area is one of the state or federal government telling its residents that it needs them — to mine for gold, to cut down trees for timber, to guard all the people they sent to prison — and then coming along later to tell residents that their services are no longer needed.

Susanville, the spot on the map, is an immutable intermingling of unique geologic formations. Susanville, the incorporated city, is running out of time.

“We’re heading toward insolvency,” Newton said before he resigned as city manager to take a position in Tehama County government.

The prison building boom

When the state’s three-strikes law still imposed mandatory life sentences on anyone with two or more prior convictions for violent felonies, California needed places like Susanville to put its skyrocketing prison population.

According to Brown University’s Prison Proliferation Project, states and the federal government operated 511 prisons in 1970. By the end of the prison building boom in 2000, that number had risen to 1,663.

The prison guards who lived in Susanville coached Little League and bought bread at the bakery downtown. They had steady jobs with top-tier health and retirement benefits; today experienced correctional officers earn $9,650 a month in base pay.

The town benefited from carceral policies that pulled prisoners hundreds of miles from their families, even as Lassen County counted those inmates as residents until 2022 and built around a prison boom that showed no signs of ending.

Until, of course, it did.

In 2006, overcrowding forced some of the state’s 170,000 prisoners to sleep in hallways and multipurpose rooms. But sentencing policies changed in the early 2010s to put more people in jail than prisons, and when people went to prison, they went for shorter sentences. Now, the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation is down to 90,000 prisoners, and has 8,000 more beds available than it has people in custody.

An emergent field of research in the last 15 years has focused on the era of the “prison bust,” when prison closures have outnumbered prison openings. Criminal justice policy researchers have found that the proposed economic benefits of prisons to small, rural communities were probably overstated to begin with.

“A large portion of prison jobs (were) filled by residents of neighboring towns,” wrote the authors of a 2024 article in the journal Punishment & Society. “Even those who moved to the area for prison jobs often settled in adjacent communities, providing little direct benefit to the local economy.”

Not only might prisons not be engines of economic growth, according to a seminal 2010 study from researchers at Washington State University, they might have stymied the development of other industries warded off by the presence of the prison.

Brown University associate sociology professor John Eason, whose book “Big House on the Prairie” focused on a prison in the rural South, found that the economic fate of prison towns is most closely correlated to when they were built, more than where they were built.

“Towns that adopted prisons earlier in the prison boom received a short-term boon compared to those that did not build, but the effects were not lasting,” Eason wrote.

Towns that built a prison early in the boom saw increased median home values and median income, Eason wrote, with reduced poverty and unemployment, but those effects did not last longer than a decade, which he called “a decay effect.”

But the residents and leadership of the city of Blythe, where the shuttered Chuckwalla Valley State Prison was built in 1987, are certain that their economic problems began and ended on the day in 2022 when the prison closed down.

Desert town tried to keep prison open

“We still haven’t got nothing from the state,” said Blythe Mayor Joseph DeConinck. “I hate to say it, but Blythe’s in the middle of nowhere, we’re the furthest from Sacramento, I just hate to say it again, we’re only a few votes out here.”

The mayor of the small desert city in Riverside County near the Arizona border watched the failed lawsuit over the Susanville prison closure and decided against filing their own litigation after Newsom ordered the Blythe prison closed just before Christmas 2022.

Instead, Blythe chose honey over vinegar and launched a lobbying effort to convince state legislators and the governor that the town needed some kind of economic rescue.

It has, so far, failed to produce results.

“We took these prisons when nobody else wanted them,” DeConinck said. “And we adapted to them because they became a strong economic generator for our area.”

Blythe’s population of 18,000 in 2022 had fallen to 17,400 by 2024, the last year for which census statistics are available. A drop of just 3% of the population might not sound drastic, but Blythe was in trouble long before the prison closed.

The population has been dropping since a peak of about 20,000 in 2010. A Riverside County civil investigation in June 2022 found that the city can’t pay its bills, its population is fleeing to Phoenix or the Coachella Valley, and neither the city nor its residents have bright prospects.

Six months after that investigation, Newsom announced the prison closure.

DeConinck said city leadership flew to Sacramento and tried, in vain, to get any traction. He recalled one meeting between the Blythe city manager and representatives of the governor in which he said the city itself was promised direct financial assistance.

The era of sweet-talking the state is over now, DeConinck said.

“They wouldn’t even have a conversation with us,” said Vice Mayor Johnny Rodriguez. “They’re not doing anything to assist us because they have this political mantra that all prisons are bad.”

Rodriguez said the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation and the Department of General Services sent representatives to a meeting on the future of the shuttered prison site. It didn’t go well.

“We had just one meeting with a potential developer who had some interest in it, and all the state provided was, what you can’t do, what they won’t do,” Rodriguez said. “They won’t give a timeline when they would start talking about it, so what’s that going to do?”

Newsom’s office referred questions to the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation.

Will Matthews, a corrections spokesperson, said in a statement after this article first published that the state sent $995,000 to the Riverside County Workforce Development Division in August 2024.

“State representatives met with local leaders in July 2024 to discuss these resources and other available assistance,” Matthews said. “There was no commitment to providing direct financial assistance to the City of Blythe.”

Matthews said until the Blythe prison site’s infrastructure is separated from neighboring Ironwood State Prison and its bond obligations are resolved, the property can’t move through the state’s process for dispensing with surplus property.

In a March hearing before a Senate budget subcommittee, Corrections Secretary Jeff Macomber said he’s eager to end his agency’s control over closed prison sites.

“I don’t want to hold on to closed facilities,” Macomber said. “Believe it or not, I have to provide a little bit of staffing. It’s unpopular, there’s security risks. We have people break in because who doesn’t want to run in, to break into a closed prison?”

Newsom began closing prisons with the deactivation of the Deuel Vocational Institute in Tracy, followed by the prison in Susanville, and then a prison in Blythe near the Arizona border. The state also ended its contract with a private prison in Kern County, a site now being operated as an immigrant detention center. A prison in Norco, also in Riverside County, is scheduled to close in October.

More prisons probably will close. The Legislature this year passed a budget that called for the state to shut at least one more. Its passage reflected Democratic lawmakers’ desire to save money — about $150 million a year per prison — by eliminating underused correctional facilities.

And some state prisons have astronomical deferred maintenance bills. The state auditor recently released a report estimating that five of them need repairs that would cost $2.4 billion.

Rodriguez is still fighting for a prison on the shuttered site. He has plans to pitch the federal government on opening a women’s prison there to account for the closure of the Federal Correctional Institution in Dublin, which closed after 10 guards were charged with sexually abusing the prisoners.

“Closing Chuckawalla was a mistake,” said Assemblymember Jeff Gonzalez, a Coachella Republican. “For our rural communities, these facilities are critical employers that support local families and local economies.”

Ready for change on edge of Bay Area

If any town was prepared for a prison closure, it was Tracy.

Optimism abounds, even on the city website, which promotes it as “one of the fastest growing suburbs of the San Francisco Bay Area.” The city has for decades been a bedroom community for commuters to the East Bay Area and San José.

The offers are pouring in to fill the abandoned prison site, said San Joaquin County Supervisor Robert Rickman, who was mayor of Tracy from 2016-2020.

“We’ve been in contact with folks in the agricultural industry, the education industry and even some of them who are interested in opening a casino,” Rickman said. “I would say [the prison closure] was neutral. The property isn’t sitting forgotten. South county is a very prosperous portion of our county.”

Prison guards and support staff mainly transferred to the California Health Care Facility in Stockton, Rickman said.

“I guess you’re never really prepared for a closure,” Rickman said, “but the good thing is that nobody lost their jobs.”

Tracy has the advantages that Susanville does not: It’s next to Interstate 5 along a busy commercial corridor in a populated and growing section of the state. Tracy also doesn’t have the drawbacks of Blythe and the Inland Empire desert — the weather never gets too hot, and there is reliable access to water.

Instead of challenging the state government like Blythe, Rickman gets to play host and pitch man to businesses.

Back in Susanville, it’s been a struggle to get any business to return calls.

Hard choices in Susanville

“For the last two years, we’ve adopted deficit budgets,” said Newton, the erstwhile city manager. “We’re deficit spending in order to fill public safety vacancies, and expenditure increases are outpacing our revenue increases.

“It’s going to start eating at our cash reserves.”

The town is hoping some industry — any industry — can come in and save it. City leaders have little hope for state assistance. But the city also has its own limitations.

First, Newton said, it’s hard to make a businesses on the border of California and Nevada choose California, with its higher taxes and stern regulatory environment. That choice in finance terms is known as regulatory arbitrage.

Second, industry needs power, and Susanville doesn’t have a lot of power on the grid, nor the infrastructure to support it. A bad thunderstorm can knock out the lights to half the city. The city’s transmission lines can’t handle the wattage demanded by heavy industry.

Third, the city and county’s limited population is working against it. Prisons force people to work and live in an area, and the state supplies the workforce. But there is no big workforce base on which to draw for any industry. When the prisons close, the guards transfer to new locations or retire and leave the rural, geographically isolated area.

The pandemic didn’t help. Downtown businesses were already struggling when people started buying more retail goods online, a trend that didn’t abate when lockdowns ended, Schuster said.

Now, some of the largest tax generators in town are on sales from online shopping and fuel taxes — people stop in town to get gas because Susanville has the only gas stations for 20 miles in any direction.

A baseball grandstand burned down last year, and in March, a lumber mill that employed about 30 people caught fire. No one was injured, but the mill burned to the ground.

Now the 8,000 people in this remote corner of California have to ask themselves what more they can wring from the land, what more they can take and what more it can yield. One idea includes a new truck stop.

Whatever salvation comes for the town, if any salvation comes at all, won’t be at the hands of the state government that built a prison and then took it away, Newton said.

“No one is coming to save us.”

This article was updated to include information that the California Department of Corrections and Rehabilitation shared after publication.

Duara writes for CalMatters.

BOURNEMOUTH is one of the most popular seaside towns in the UK, pulling in millions of visitors every year to its pretty beaches.

But there’s so much more to it than just its coastline, as Michael Regenhard, who manages the Bournemouth Highcliff Hotel, reveals.

Michael Regenhardt left Germany for Bournemouth 20 years ago and he’s lived there ever since – what did he make of it when he first arrived?

He told us: “I’m German, so you look at the English and think they do all these weird and wonderful things. Then when you live here – I eat my lamb with mint sauce now – my mother will never forgive me for that.”

Michael continued: “I wear brown suede shoes now too. And when I came to Bournemouth – it was the first time I went to an amusement arcade I was given a bundle of coins and I thought ‘what do I do with this?’

“But now, when I have friends come to visit, I take them on the lift down to the beach – then we go there and their eyes light up.

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“I see it with Brits too because it’s nostalgic – it takes them back to their childhood. It’s a lovely experience – then we go for fish and chips afterwards.

“You can’t get more English than that.”

Here are his top Bournemouth recommendations.

Hotels

Being the Multi Property General Manager of the beautiful Bournemouth Highcliff (and the Portsmouth Marriott) – Michael has to recommend it to visitors.

“The Highcliff is 150-years-old and was initially just four townhouses then it was converted into a hotel. Next to us we have the original coastguard cottages that Bournemouth had when the smugglers still came across the sea.

“They go back to around 1830 – and they’re part of the hotel as well. Now they’re rooms, with a little garden in front of them.”

“Winston Churchill stayed here at the beginning of World War Two – he was actually declared wartime leader at the hotel.”

Michael continued: “We have 160 bedrooms and the hotel sits on top of the cliff, so we get the best views out of most of the hotels I would say.

“We have Brasserie Blanc, it’s our restaurant partner, and we have an outdoor swimming pool.”

Restaurants

“I have one in the summer which is called El Murrino – it’s right on the beach. But it’s only open from April until September.

“It has good vibes, it has good food – it’s very simple, pizzas, burgers, salads, cocktails and beers. But it’s one of the only restaurants right on the beach.

“We have a place for Tiien Thai, which I have to say, is in my hotel. It’s not part of the hotel, but it is inside. It’s been around for almost 12 years and I think it’s the best Thai restaurant in the south.

“I’m a Panang man – it’s what I have every time I go. And they have the best crispy squid, or calamari.”

Bars

When it comes to beach bars, he said there aren’t many, but praises Aruba which overlooks the pier, saying there is “always a good vibe in there during the evening”.

He added: “We have a place called The Botanist now in the square in the old Debenhams building – it’s very beautiful and it’s on the rooftop.

“You take an old staircase up, and it is a restaurant too but they have a lovely outside bar – you overlook the square and the Lower Gardens.

“Our hotel has a bar as well, it’s part of Brasserie Blanc, they have a fantastic terrace – but that would be biased from me!”

Pubs

“One in the town centre is called The Sun which has recently been refurbished, it used to be called 60 Million Postcards.

“It has a good look to it with a big terrace.

“Then there’s a couple up in The Triangle, they’re a bit older; The Branksome is one of those.

“There’s two pubs in the main square too – like the Wetherspoons. It depends what you want.”

Date night spots

“Go back to the Urban Garden as a restaurant because you can go on a romantic walk there too through the gardens, take the staircase, it’s half in the jungle.

“Afterwards, if you’re a bit younger, I’d say go down to 1812 which is next to the BIC.

“It’s a huge building and there’s a cocktail bar inside there – it gets busy on Fridays and Saturdays.

“But it’s a nice setting, especially if you sit outside.”

Best beaches

“One really nice beach is if you go towards Sandbanks, the beach is beautiful, there aren’t any stones – but it is busy.

“During the week, it’s much quieter.

“Branksome is a lovely beach with two lovely restaurants there and it’s a nice, family-friendly spot. It’s not too busy – and you can only park in the Chines.

“I don’t think there’s a bad spot in Bournemouth though.”

Hidden gems

“One of those is Sobo Beach, which is in Southbourne. It’s very much a neighbourhood beach and is usually quiet, but busy enough that it has a good vibe.

“SOBO Beach Bar and Restaurant is great too – it’s very quirky, a bit Miami, very colourful with good music on the weekend.

“During the week it’s part of the neighbourhood where people go for coffees in the morning and so on. That’s a great beach and it’s not busy.

“If I give one tip – if you ever go to the beach, avoid the piers. Go 200 metres one way or the other, it’s just too packed.

“There are miles and miles of beach.”

Local experiences

“Past Southbourne is a little place called Tuckton, and when you speak to all the English tourists they talk about Tuckton Tea Garden – but that’s not the experience I’m talking about.

“They have a mini marina there and from there you take boat trips up to Mudeford Spit. It’s like little boats for eight or nine people, then you drive up the river a bit, go part Christchurch and come out on Christchurch Bay.

“It’s a beautiful little trip. Then when you get there you have England’s most expensive beach huts, which go for around £250,000 and over.

“They are the only beach huts where you can stay overnight and some of them have dual aspect so you can see the Isle of Wight and Christchurch Bay.

“It’s a beautiful trip. There’s a little train as well which goes to Hengistbury Head and from there you can take a bus or a cab back.

“Not many people know about that.”

Family attractions

“There’s the Oceanarium – it’s something for the whole family. It’s right on the pier, they have penguins there.

“It’s nicely done with lots of activities, quite educational – it’s a nice thing to do as a family.

“The pier has a zipwire, and a climbing centre now too. Overall, the pier has lots of little activities for families.

“As for attractions – it’s really all about the beach.”

Shopping

“I’d say Westbourne which from the hotel is a five-minute drive away.

“It’s a very nice, older kind of neighbourhood; it has an arcade with shops inside and the high street isn’t one long road, it’s more of a loop.

“They’re all very individual shops, with nice cafes, lovely restaurants – it’s all a bit quirky.

“It takes you away from the classic shopping centre – which we do have.”

Cheap food spots

“Where the pier is, there’s the Pier View Kitchen and it’s got a huge terrace, it’s half self-service and half service.

“But they have everything you need and you can pick up a bacon butty and a coffee for £5.

“It does what it says on the tin and you can look over the whole pier approach.”

Sweet treats and coffee

“There are two places that aren’t far from each other – there’s a place called Fika on Westover Road.

“It’s where the Pavilion is, and they’re really individual coffee shop, it’s a lovely place to eat, they do ice creams too – it’s very cute.

“Then there’s another coffee spot I recommend called BigWigs – it’s a family bakery that have a few places dotted through Bournemouth.

“Great pastries, cakes and great coffee – they serve Bad Hand coffee which is a local coffee roastery.

“Then you have Bad Hands itself which is up towards the Triangle, that’s where their roastery is, and they have a coffee shop now too.”

Cheap activities

“We had a group recently that hired some bikes and went all along the promenade from one end to the other. And the best time to do that? 8 o’clock in the morning – it’s stunning.

“That’s a nice way of doing some sightseeing while in Bournemouth. If you’re looking for something free to do, head to the beach.”

Cultural activities

“There’s the Russell Cotes Museum on Eastcliff in a beautiful old building which goes back over 100 years.

“It used to be family owned and the people in there loved collecting art and sculptures and it was slowly turned into a museum.

“It’s very beautiful and inside, it’s fantastic and it’s Bournemouth-centric.

“That’s from the pier, five minutes up the hill – there are also some art galleries on Westover Road if that takes your fancy.”

Best views

“So if you go over to Mudeford Spit, that is attached to Hengistbury Head – and you want to go to the oppositesidee of Sandbanks.

“It’s not a mountain, it’s a hill and it’s beautiful to walk, you can go along the beach and around it – or up and over.

“Once you’re on top of it, you see the Isle of Wight and The Needles, Swanage and Christchurch – it’s absolutely beautiful.

“When the regatta is on over on the Isle of Wight you can see all the ships too.

“The best time to do it in the early morning when it’s clearer – you can see for miles.”

Michael has some final tips as a local…

“I just say prepare for the weather! It’s one of the main things that people do wrong.

“It could be sunny and then it gets cold – which it always does in the evenings.

“As I said before there’s never the wrong weather, just the wrong clothes – and I’d say Bournemouth is just as lovely in the autumn and winter.

“It’s lovely in the summer months but it can be a bit too much – if you come out of season, October, November – it doesn’t matter, it’s still lovely. Just put your jacket on.”

WITH its cobbled roads, charming streets and historic buildings, Rye is considered one of the most beautiful destinations in England.

And it’s set to make a TV appearance too as the East Sussex town was used as the backdrop in a new period TV series coming to Netflix.

Last year, Rye transformed into the fictional town of Meryton for a new television adaptation of Pride and Prejudice.

TV crew and cast descended on the town in September to create a time-warp setting for Jane Austen’s novel.

Actors were spotted wearing period costumes and the streets were dressed to look like the 1800s.

The Netflix series is set to be released this autumn starring Emma Corrin as Elizabeth Bennet, and Jack Lowden as Mr Darcy.

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The town is popular with tourists thanks to its traditionally English look and has even been dubbed the ‘new Cotswolds‘ by country lifestyle experts at Welligogs.

The experts described it as having a “storybook atmosphere” filled with “antique shops and independent boutiques”.

For shopping Mermaid Street is the place to be – it was also selected as being one the prettiest streets in Britain by The Telegraph.

While it might be miles away from Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire, Rye shares lots of the same qualities as towns found in the Cotswolds like pretty cottages and independent shops.

The Cotswolds has rivers running through its villages, while Rye offers a beach escape for those who want to check out the seaside instead.

Camber Sands is just 10-minutes away in the car to get from the town to the dunes.

Head of Sun Travel (Digital) Caroline McGuire said: “The medieval town of Rye in East Sussex isn’t strictly seaside, but you can see the sea from its cobble streets and it has a harbour where boats sail out to the English Channel.

“Plus, if you go back as far as the 15th century, the sea came much closer to the foot of the hill the town is built on.

“It’s the perfect place to spend a day out – taking an hour and six minutes on the train from Kings Cross St Pancras.”

“If you fancy a morning on the beach, a bus runs from the town to the stunning Camber Sands beach – a three-mile stretch of golden sand backed by dunes.”

She continued: “Or you can for a six-mile circular walk from Rye to Winchelsea beach.

“Back in the town after lunch, there are plenty of fantastic pubs to choose from, my favourites being the 12th century Mermaid Inn and the George In Rye, as well as the Globe Inn Marsh on the outskirts of the town.

“Equally, you could book a taxi and check out Tillingham vineyard in nearby Peasmarsh, with its Michelin Green Star wine tours and excellent pizzas.”

“Make sure to save some time to rummage through the many, many antiques shops, as well as Knoops hot chocolate shop and the wonderfully old fashioned Britcher and Rivers sweet shop.”

The historic harbour is the hub of this working East Neuk fishing port, home to a fleet of about 30 small trawlers and creel boats. Their catches are sold at the covered market on the quay each weekday morning, and served at the harbourside Dory Bistro and Chip Ahoy at the Larachmhor pub. Pittenweem (which means “place of the cave”) also has a Victorian-era swimming pool next to the beach, which is filled by the tide twice a day. After falling into disrepair, it was saved by a local group called the West Braes Project and reopened in 2021, along with the crazy golf course. Early each August, there is an annual arts festival with exhibits by nearly 200 artists in harbourside spaces, heritage buildings, homes and studios. Pittenweem is flanked by two other pretty harbour villages, St Monans and Anstruther, while a third, Crail, is a little further north; the Fife Coastal Path links them all. The Bank in Anstruther has harbour-view rooms (doubles from £120 B&B).

There has been a harbour in the village of Carnlough since the late 1700s, but the one standing today dates to 1853 (Game of Thrones fans may recognise it as the Braavos canal). It was built on the orders of the Marchioness of Londonderry to transport limestone from her quarries – the town hall’s Heritage Hub tells the full story. The old railway line between the quarry and harbour is now a footpath with panoramic views, leading to Cranny Falls. The harbour is the focal point of the village, which stands at the foothills of Glencoy – one of the nine glens, or glacial valleys, of Antrim – on Carnlough Bay. It bustles with local fishers, and boat trips set sail daily (£10 adults, £6 children; trips last 45 minutes). The Twilight coffeeshop, directly across from the harbour, serves brunch and has bunkhouse accommodation upstairs (sleeping 14). The recently refurbished Harbourview hotel offers more than 200 Irish whiskeys and hosts an annual whiskey festival (doubles from £120 B&B).

Solva, Pembrokeshire

Solva’s ancient harbour is at the bottom of a steep-sided valley on St Brides Bay, a few miles from St David’s. At high tide, it is popular with paddleboarders, but at low tide it becomes a huge stretch of sand, with the River Solva meandering down the middle. Then, there are rock pools and caves to explore; prime fishing, crabbing and shrimping spots; and safe, shallow places to swim. The village is split into Lower Solva, by the harbour, and Upper Solva – there are fantastic views over both ends from the Gribin headland. Cafe on the Quay and the Harbour Inn have outdoor tables overlooking the water; the Hats & Barrels serves fresh fish, and seasonal lobster and crab; and the Cambrian Inn is a restaurant with five rooms (doubles from £140 B&B).

Craster, Northumberland

While Craster’s natural haven has been used by fishers for centuries, today’s harbour was built in 1906 as a memorial to a member of the Craster family and has the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, a mile’s (1.6km) walk away up the coast as a backdrop. Craster is perhaps best known for its kippers, and L Robson & Sons has been producing them at its smokehouse overlooking the harbour since 1856. They are sold in the shop next door, while the Piper’s Pitch hut serves them in a bun, and the Jolly Fisherman pub turns them into paté and puts them in a scotch egg. The Cottage Inn, just outside Craster, has 10 rooms (doubles from £105 room only), and the Dunstanburgh Castle Inn in neighbouring Embleton has 16 (doubles from £120 B&B). The market town of Alnwick is about seven miles away.

Brixham, on Devon’s south coast, is probably the county’s best-known harbour town – but the village of Clovelly, on the north coast, is well worth seeking out, too. It was once the property of William the Conqueror, and is still privately owned today (entry is £10.90 adults; £6.25 children). The tiny harbour stands at the foot of a 122-metre cliff, reached via the steep, cobbled main street (known as Up-along or Down-along). Cars are not allowed, so goods are transported by sledges and donkeys. The Red Lion hotel, right on the quay, has 17 rooms, all with sea views (doubles from £225 B&B); the restaurant serves dishes such as wild hake and local lobster, while the snug bar offers haddock and chips. The Fisherman’s Cottage & Kingsley Museum is a 1930s time capsule, and there are annual festivals celebrating seaweed, seafaring and seafood.

Staithes, North Yorkshire

North Yorkshire is not short of busy harbour towns and fishing villages: see Scarborough, Whitby and Robin Hood’s Bay. But Staithes, a little further north, is less well known. The name means “landing place” in Old English; Vikings landed here, and it was once one of the busiest fishing ports in the north-east. Today, there are still a handful of cobles (a traditional fishing vessel), plus boats running wildlife-watching trips, from which minke whales can be seen in August and September. The village is a steep jumble of cottages (largely white-washed and red-roofed, with the occasional electric blue pile), threaded with cobbled snickets (narrow alleys). The Cod & Lobster pub is right on the harbour wall; and the Endeavour B&B (refurbished in 2022) has four rooms, one with harbour views (doubles from £120 B&B). There is an annual arts festival (this year running 11-13 September), and visitors can walk a mile or so along the Cleveland Way to the ruined harbour at the abandoned hamlet of Port Mulgrave.

From mighty Falmouth to minuscule Mousehole, harbour hunters are spoiled for choice in Cornwall. But pretty Porthleven, on the Lizard peninsula, tends to have fewer crowds. Its double harbour, which opened in 1825, is said to have been built by French prisoners of war after the battle of Waterloo. It is lined with pubs, restaurants and galleries; there is a craft market most days from Easter to the end of October, and a food festival in April. The 17th-century Ship Inn straddles the harbour and the waters of Mount’s Bay; the Mussel Shoal is a seafood shack right on the harbour head; and Kota Kai serves fusion food such as Cornish fish and chips with katsu curry sauce, wasabi tartare, Asian slaw and pea puree. The Harbour Inn is a recently refurbished pub with 15 rooms (doubles from £110 B&B).

Lyme Regis’s harbour includes the Cobb, a breakwater and jetty. The first written mention of it was in 1328, when it was damaged by storms, but today’s Cobb was built from blocks of Portland stone in the late 18th and 19th centuries. It is on the west side of the town (known locally as the Pearl of Dorset), so is great for a sunset stroll. You can often see seals in the harbour and dolphins just out to sea; there are daily boat trips in late spring and summer. The beaches are fertile ground for fossil hunters – especially at Monmouth, to the west of the Cobb, and East Cliff, to the east of the town – and have thrown up many amazing discoveries, including an ichthyosaurus excavated by the paleontological pioneer Mary Anning in 1812. The Cobb Arms is the closest pub to the harbour and has three rooms (doubles £155 B&B); while the Harbour Inn, a tiny bit farther north by the beach, serves Lyme Bay seafood.

This market town on the west bank of the River Lymington, at the edge of the Solent, was first mentioned in the Domesday Book, became a hotbed for salt manufacture in the medieval era and later a shipbuilding centre in the 19th century. Today, it is a yachting hub, with two marinas as well as the old town quay. Near the Royal Lymington Yacht Club are the town’s seawater baths – established in 1833 and still open for swimmers (plus paddleboarding and inflatable obstacle courses). There is a lively market along the high street on Saturdays; while waterfront pubs and restaurants include the Ship Inn and The Haven, and the recently reopened Mayflower, set a little back near the seawater baths, which has seven rooms (doubles from £100 B&B). The Wightlink ferry port is just outside the town at Lymington Pier, taking passengers to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight, another historic harbour town (with a crossing of about 40 minutes).

Plockton, a planned harbour village built to support the herring industry in the early 1800s, is known as the Jewel of the Highlands. It sits in a sheltered bay on the banks of Loch Carron, with a mild climate that allows incongruous-looking palm trees to thrive, and wooded hills beyond. Visitors can buy fresh fish and prawns off the pier when the boats come in at about 3pm; go on sea-kayak tours and seal-watching trips (from spring until the end of October); and watch the annual summer regatta in July. The Plockton Inn serves local langoustines and other seafood; the Plockton hotel has six rooms with loch views and five overlooking the gardens (doubles £180 B&B); and the bunkhouse by the railway station has budget beds (£20pp, discounts for groups). It is about an hour’s drive over the bridge to the Isle of Skye and on to its pastel-painted harbour capital, Portree.