The Sun on Sunday

From its colourful capital to forests, feasts and lush lakes, Latvia serves up one special summer escape

PADDLING kayaks through the serene 8,000-year-old bog, we’re about to enter the “second maze”, according to our guide Elina.

Locals call it this because the small islands of shrubs, moss and reeds we’re navigating are constantly shifting above the mineral-rich water, making the route through ever-changing.

The cobbled streets and colourful art nouveau buildings of Latvia’s capital, Riga Credit: Shutterstock / Altug Galip
You’ll find lush landscapes at Kemeri National Park Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

If you want a moment to really pause, Latvia’s the place.

Over half of the country, which is a quarter of the UK’s size, is covered in forest, and with a population of fewer than 2 million, it’s not hard to find a stunning spot all to yourself – even in the height of summer.

We return to the shore to find Elina’s mother-in-law cooking up a feast on a portable stove.

Slices of ham and bread are served alongside a huge flask of coffee, helpings of traditional grey pea and bacon broth, and piles of fresh pancakes, both savoury potato and apple, which are demolished by my kids Poppy, seven, and Raffy, five.

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It’s a brunch made from simple ingredients, but it is utterly delicious, especially when devoured in the vivid green landscape of Kemeri National Park.

Kayaking tours cost from £21.50 per person (Boardsyou.lv).

Ravishing Riga

Suite digs at Hotel Grand Poet By Semarah Credit: Supplied

The starting point for our trip is the cobbled streets and colourful art nouveau buildings of Latvia’s capital.

Riga sits little more than half an hour from the white sandy beaches of the Baltic coast (with a sea warmer than Cornwall’s come summer, FYI) and an abundance of nature, like those ancient bogs.

We arrive during celebrations for the city’s 825th anniversary and to streets alive with brass bands and artistic performances.

Even at its busiest, though, Riga still feels gloriously uncrowded, despite striking architecture and sculptures at every turn – the black felines perched on the turrets of Cat House and the Bremmen Town Musicians Statue of four animals balancing upon each other (said to bring luck if you rub their noses) our favourites.

Hotel Grand Poet By Semarah, with its flamboyant interiors, lies opposite pretty Bastejkalna Park, just a short stroll from the beautifully kept Old Town.

Its spa – where kids are welcome throughout the day – is home to a swimming pool, whirlpool, steam room and two saunas, and we even spot TV chef Prue Leith at the breakfast buffet one morning.

Family rooms cost from £280 B&B (Grandpoet.semarahhotels.com).

Lots to lake

The black felines perched on the turrets of Cat House are said to bring luck if you rub their nose Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

One of Riga’s most popular weekend spots, Mežaparks, is set on alluring Lake Kišezers, where pedalos, rowing boats and SUPs are for hire, and swimming from its sandy shore is a breeze.

Cabo, with its hammocks and swinging seats, is an idyllic spot for sipping a rhubarb spritz, £7.70, while the kids splash about, and we hire a four-seater pedal kart to whizz around the forest trails, £17 per hour (Cabo.lv).

It would be easy to while away a whole day shoreside, but with Riga Zoo also here, we soon find ourselves giggling at the swaggering chief gelada (similar to a baboon), then wide-eyed at the glow-in-the-dark scorpions in the tropical house.

A family ticket costs £35 (Rigazoo.lv).

Another morning well spent is at Marupe Wake Park – its inflatable water obstacle course is one of Europe’s largest, with slides, swings, zip wires and climbing challenges.

As we hop across a giant panda and unicorn, the kids’ confidence grows with each leap, before we all revive ourselves in the sauna overlooking the lake, chuckling about our most spectacular splash landings.

Sessions cost from £16 per person (Udensatrakcijuparks.lv).

Later, among vibrant Mediterranean-inspired wall murals, we find a meal worthy of any great city.

We’re at Italissimo, where the little ones tuck into proper lasagne, £4, and pasta in butter broth with parmesan, £3, glugging down home-made berry lemonades, £3.70, while I dig into sublime truffled burrata with parma ham and wine-poached pear, £13.50, and tiger prawn ravioli with asparagus and a creamy bisque sauce, £14.50.

Cocktails, such as the Malfy Sour – a limoncello and citrus gin blend, £9 – are also excellent.

We soon clock children disappearing downstairs and discover a pastel playroom with a giant ball pit and interactive games screen, much to the kids’ glee (Facebook.com/restaurant.italissimo).

Going medieval

Turaida Castle towers over Gauja National Park Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Restaurant Rozengrals, meanwhile, is a celebration of Riga’s medieval roots.

One lunchtime, we descend the steep steps and follow torch-lit tunnels to an underground dining hall for a huge platter of oven-baked duck with cherry-onion jam on a bed of pulses, £25, and pastry parcels stuffed with spinach and cheese, £7.20.

Sea buckthorn with honey, £4, is quickly declared a hit by all and we finish off by sharing Countess Amelia’s Caprice – tiny iced cakes encased in filo pastry, made from another 15th-century recipe, £6 (Rozengrals.lv).

Nearby, we discover GunsnLasers, an entertainment arcade tucked away in Galerija Centrs shopping centre, where e-karting proves to be a blast for kids and we all tear around the interactive Pixels Room, trying to avoid stepping on the ever-moving red squares of a giant light-up grid.

Donning VR headsets for family challenges is also a lot of fun for everyone.

Three activities cost £24 per person (Gunsnlasers.lv).

Tree-rific times

Expect al dente deliciousness at Italissimo Credit: Italissimo Restaurant/Instagram

Still, we’re here to explore Latvia’s stunning landscapes, and an hour’s drive from Riga is Gauja National Park, the home of Turaida Castle – a reconstructed medieval fortress in lush grounds dotted with sculptures.

The kids love spotting ancient weapons and climbing the main tower with its views of the Gauja river.

Later, after venison stew with figs, £17.50, at quaint Kungu Riga (Kungurija.lv), we check out adventure park Tarzans.

Here, alongside the thrills of high-rope obstacle courses, tubing and bungee trampolining, there are activities such as a downhill hamster wheel, giant catapult and a toboggan track that hurtles us through the trees.

Packages cost £26 per child, £30 per adult (Tarzans.lv).

It all makes for a cracking afternoon – just as Latvia makes for a cracking summer adventure.

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I stayed on the African island with direct UK flights and hot winters

ONE minute I’m having my morning coffee, the next I’m handed a long stick to fish fresh mangos from the trees for my breakfast.

As I cut into the ripe green fruit, sticky juice seeps down my arm and I frantically try to eat it before it reaches my elbow.

Soft sandy beaches, coconut trees lining the roads and year-round 30C weather. All the boxes ticked Credit: Getty Images
Pop into the Bazar de Grand Baie, a huge indoor market with everything from clothes and shoes to carved wooden dodos and coconut bowls Credit: Alamy

After days of rich prawn curries and French chocolate lava cakes, this health hit is a welcome change. 

The mix of Indian and French culture is what makes a holiday to the African island of Mauritius unique.

Its history is complex. Being uninhabited until 1598, it swapped hands from the Dutch, to the French, and finally the British before its independence in 1968.

Now predominantly Indo-Mauritian, the island is the definition of paradise.

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Soft sandy beaches, coconut trees lining the roads and year-round 30C weather. All the boxes ticked.

And your time in paradise is best spent at Veranda Paul et Virginie Hotel in the north of the island.

The adult-only resort, which underwent a huge renovation in 2024, is named after the tragic French love story of Virginie and Paul. Spoiler: They both die.

I’ve never felt more alive, however, as I enter the hotel to be greeted by Bora Bora-style thatched lobbies, Maldives-esque, over-water restaurants and a Dubai-like infinity pool.

Red sky at night is The Sun’s Kara’s delight Credit: Unknown
Infinity pool at the Veranda Hotel Credit: Supplied

Thankfully, it comes without the high price tag of those destinations, as Mauritius is the affordable luxury alternative.

My out-of-office relaxation is only interrupted by my hourly break into the water to escape the heat. There’s the bright turquoise ocean with snorkelling, paddle boarding and glass-bottom boat tours — all included for guests.

Otherwise, days are spent hopping between the main hotel pool and the infinity pool overlooking the sea.

The latter is where I spend every evening in awe of the view when the sun goes down.

As the clouds clear, a vivid pink sunset rips across the sky like a paint splatter, lighting up the water in the same hue.

And the views don’t stop from either of the hotel restaurants.

The main dining spot is Saint Geran, which juts out over the water with 360-degree ocean views.

The menu includes octopus salads, Mauritian arancini and decadent French desserts. I quickly became obsessed with napolitaine, a tiny shortbread biscuit covered in pink icing that I had alongside nearly every cup of coffee.

Make sure to stay put at the resort on Thursdays for the Sunset Vibes nights, with steel drums, cocktails and canapes.

Another big selling point of this gorgeous hotel is that all the bedrooms have either pool or sea views.

My Superior room — the middle option — was spacious and stylish. Think rattan chairs on the balcony, king-size beds and dark walnut furniture, accented with blues and oranges.

Any woes I still had in me were eased at the hotel’s spa, where a 90-minute massage from Aurora left me feeling like a new woman.

If you come to Mauritius with the kids, try the Veranda Grand Baie hotel down the road. This resort has volleyball courts, table tennis and a rotating menu of activities, such as archery and kayaking.

I tested my skills with some Creole lessons, Ravanne drum classes and cooking demonstrations, sweating over an outdoor stove.

Adults wanting some time to themselves also have more choice in the village of Grand Baie (after which the hotel is named).

A short walk or boat ride away, Banana Beach Club is the place to be, with £3 local beers and live music all through the week.

Pop into the Bazar de Grand Baie, a huge indoor market with everything from clothes and shoes to carved wooden dodos and coconut bowls. Just be prepared to haggle hard. If you can pull yourself away, the rest of the north of the island has a lot more to offer outside of the resorts.

The history of Mauritius is best explained at L’Aventure du Sucre, an interactive museum exploring the last 400 years — with sugar and rum tastings to finish off, of course.

Join the locals at Cap Malheureux beach, where heady smells of BBQ-ed meat carry across the shore.

It’s also where you’ll find the famous red-roofed church that features on all the postcards out here.

BBQ lobster at the Grand Baie Credit: Supplied

GO: MAURITIUS

GETTING THERE: Return flights from London Gatwick to Mauritius start from £658 with Air Mauritius. See airmauritius.com. 

STAYING THERE: Veranda Grand Baie on a B&B basis is from £195 a night based on two people sharing (£243 half-board, £338 all-inclusive). Veranda Paul et Virginie on a B&B basis is from £168 a night based on two people sharing (£189 half-board, £286 all inclusive). See veranda-resorts.com. 

OUT & ABOUT: Entry to L’Aventure du Sucre, £19.33. See aventuredusucre.com. 

Or grab a bike and explore the fishing village of Grand Gaube.

Our guide, “King Julian”, showed us around, greeting nearly every person like a local celeb, high-fiving them over the football or holding doors for the elderly churchgoers.

“We don’t have a big life, but it’s a millionaire life,” he tells us as we watch the fishing boats come in underneath another pink sunset.

Despite spending a fraction of that to be there, I certainly felt a million dollars by the end.

Even if just from my daily dose of mangos.

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I visited the Maldives of Italy with new easyJet flights and famous ‘little ears’ pasta

IT’S 10pm on a Sunday and I’m dancing alongside 50 strangers, an Aperol spritz in one hand and a skewered olive in the other.

I’m at La Ciclatera Sotto Il Mare, a bar tucked into the medieval walls of Bari in southern Italy.

Bari’s stunning seafront at dusk Credit: Getty
Polignano a Mare beach in cliffs Credit: Getty

This historic port city is the capital of Puglia, sitting in the heel of Italy’s boot on the Adriatic coast.

And it’s that same coastline I’m now gazing at, swaying to Italian tunes the locals know every word to as they dig into shared pizza boxes.

It’s a moment that really captures the city’s vibe, and is just one of many reasons to see it for yourself.

This summer, easyJet started flying to Bari from Manchester, joining its existing routes from Gatwick and Bristol. With a flight time of just under three hours, it’s a fresh alternative to the usual long weekend in Barcelona or Lisbon.

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Until now, Bari has largely been known to Brits as a stepping stone to the more famous corners of Puglia — but it deserves better..

Bari’s real charm lies in its old town, Bari Vecchia, where you can easily lose a whole day.

Its alleys twist between pale stone houses strung with washing lines, past tiny churches and crumbling shopfronts, before opening on to squares packed with restaurants, bars and trendy gelato spots.

Despite being on the coast, Bari isn’t brimming with beaches but there are still sunbathing spots — Pane e Pomodoro is a 30-minute stroll from the centre.

This small stretch of sand is easy to swim from and dotted with bars. It gets very busy at weekends though, so arrive early.

Those after a bit of culture should check out the Basilica di San Nicola, an 11th-century church built to house the remains of Saint Nicholas, the man who inspired Santa Claus.

A few streets away, there’s the 12th-century Castello Svevo, which has a museum and art exhibitions, as well as panoramic vistas from its ramparts.

But the biggest attraction in Bari is the food. It is the birthplace of orecchiette — the “little ears” pasta shape Puglia is famous for — and you’ll find it on most menus.

The best I had was at La Beuat, a modern seafood spot on a tiny square in the Carbonara district.

Every table was full of locals tucking into dishes such as grilled octopus and fiery spaghetti all’assassina — Bari’s signature pasta cooked in a scorching pan until the edges char.

Three courses for two with wine came to around €60 (£50), which is fairly standard for a good quality meal in the old town.

For more traditional vibes, La Cantina dello Zio is a family-run trattoria famous for its orecchiette with turnip tops.

The huts of heritage site Alberobello Credit: Alamy
Bari’s famous ‘little ears’ pasta, orecchiette, with turnip greens Credit: Alamy

Another favourite was Osteria del Borgo on Piazza Mercantile, one of the old town’s most atmospheric squares.

As I ended every evening with a stomach full of pasta, I was grateful for the short walk back to my hotel, the 4* Movenpick Bari.

Rooms are contemporary and comfortable and breakfast is served on the eighth floor, which has sweeping views of the city and harbour.

Bari is a great base for exploring the Puglia region and Ionian coast, where powder-white sands have earned it the nickname “the Maldives of Italy”.

Hire a car from around £30 per day to reach the more remote areas or let the train take the strain.

Polignano a Mare, the clifftop town famed for its beach carved into the cliffs, is fewer than 30 minutes away from Bari by rail.

Monopoli, with its whitewashed old town and string of turquoise coves, is also well worth an afternoon visit for a swim and plate of pasta by the harbour.

A little further afield is Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is renowned for its trulli (traditional cone-roofed stone huts).

That said, you don’t have to go far. Bari has more than enough charm, food and character to fill a long weekend — especially if you plan your days around what’s on the menu.

GO: BARI

GETTING THERE: easyJet runs direct flights from Manchester, Gatwick and Bristol to Bari from May to October, from £32.99 each way.

See easyjet.com.

STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Mövenpick Bari start from £117 per night.

See movenpick.accor.com.

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Amanda Holden, 55, shows off legs in little black dress as her plot to build her own wellness empire is revealed

SHOWBIZ star Amanda Holden takes it nice and kneesy in a little black dress — as she plots her own wellness empire.

She has filed papers to trademark her name for future use on beauty products and websites.

Amanda Holden looks glamorous in a black dress as she plans her next career move
She has filed paperwork to trademark her name for future use on beauty products and websites Credit: Getty

The Intellectual Property Office application also covers cosmetics and perfumes.

Britain’s Got Talent judge Amanda, 55, is hoping for the same ­success as Hollywood star Gwyneth Paltrow’s £323million Goop brand.

She has previously admitted that her beauty regime before her Heart Radio breakfast show is rather rushed.

The mum of two said: “I get up at 5am . . . and get ready in 20 minutes.

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Amanda Holden, 55, goes braless in totally see through bodysuit

The Intellectual Property Office application also covers cosmetics and perfumes
Britain’s Got Talent judge Amanda, 55, is hoping for the same ­success as Hollywood star Gwyneth Paltrow Credit: Getty

“I sleep in my lashes and have all my make-up set out.

“I have my outfit laid out and leave my shoes at the door.”

Amanda has been married to record producer Chris Hughes since 2008.

The couple share daughters Lexi and Hollie.

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Fans STILL throw their bras at us on stage, reveal Westlife as they mark 25 years with record-breaking anniversary tour

THEY are marking 25 years with a record-breaking anniversary tour.

But despite celebrating a quarter of a century together, Westlife say they have never felt younger — thanks to fans still throwing their bras onto the stage.

Kian Egan, Shane Filan and Nicky Byrne have been inundated with fans throwing their undergarments on to the stage during their gigs at Dublin’s 3Arena Credit: Supplied
The band with Sun’s Emily Credit: supplied

Kian Egan, Shane Filan and Nicky Byrne have been inundated with fans throwing their undergarments on to the stage during their gigs at Dublin’s 3Arena.

Speaking to Biz on Sunday’s Emily backstage on Friday night, Kian said: “We have a B-stage where we get quite close to the audience. One bra got thrown up, and before we knew [it], it started growing to ten, 14 . . .  It is a bit of fun, and nostalgic.”

Shane added: “We aren’t leaning into it too much or the stage would be covered!”

The Irish hitmakers are on track to surpass 150 dates on their 25th Anniversary World Tour and completed a record-breaking 13-show residency at the 3Arena last night.

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They head to Aberdeen on Tuesday before playing dates across England, Wales and Scotland for their diehard fans.

Shane said: “We have 150 dates and it is growing. We don’t know how many it is going to be, but it is going to be more than 150 for sure.

“You keep yourself fit, you go to the gym, go for a run or surf — you just want to be in good shape for it. It is a very physical show.

“We aren’t out drinking every night, but we still get to enjoy it. We came off stage on the first night with a few pints of Guinness together. It was a lovely moment.”

The boys were fresh-faced twenty-somethings when they embarked on their first tour, East Meets Westlife, in 2000.

Asked if they feel fitter now, Shane said: “Without a doubt. We are getting older but we feel the same on stage.”

Now on their 15th tour, the band have made sure their hits World Of Our Own and Flying Without Wings still form part of their two-hour set.

“All these people have been with us since day one and now they get to relive these 25 years in one show for two hours,” Shane said.

The band are also keen to get former One Direction singer Niall Horan up on stage with them.

Kian said: “It has never been discussed, but you never know.”

Niall, over to you . . . 

SET LIST

World Of Our Own
Uptown Girl
Bop Bop Baby
What About Now
When You’re Looking Like That (includes a Sweet Child O’ Mine guitar solo)
What Makes A Man
I Have A Dream
I Lay My Love On You
Starlight
Queen Of My Heart
Chariot
Fool Again
If I Let You Go
My Love
Unbreakable
Mandy
Flying Without Wings
Hello My Love
You Raise Me Up
Swear It Again

Westlife, The 3Arena, Dublin *****

WESTLIFE were the life and soul of Dublin for their 25th Anniversary World Tour concert on Friday night.

Shane Filan, Kian Egan and Nicky Byrne weaved through two hours of hits including World Of Our Own and Flying Without Wings for their adoring fans at the 3Arena.

Despite being the penultimate night of their 13-date residency in the Irish capital, the boys made sure every member of the audience had the time of their life.

The mesmerising drone show during You Raise Me Up and pitch-perfect vocals proved they were still the masters of a good ballad.

Their 1999 debut single Swear It Again got the crowd gushing like teenagers over their boyband heartthrobs.

The astonishing number of dates on this tour is a credit to the love Westlife have for performing.

The energy is infectious and I defy anyone to leave without a smile.

NEW LOOK IS A CARDI BY GUCCI

Cardi B looked ready for winter in her furry white jacket at Milan Fashion Week on Friday Credit: Getty
The American rapper was spotted out in the Italian city, where she proved she’s quite the fashion queen herself Credit: Getty

CARDI B looked ready for winter in her furry white jacket at Milan Fashion Week on Friday.

The American rapper was spotted out in the Italian city, where she proved she’s quite the fashion queen herself.

Cardi teamed the Gucci coat with tights from the same Italian luxury fashion house.

And she shared snaps of her look to her 160million online followers, captioning them: “Lord that new Gucci collection.

“So clean, sickening, sexy and detailed.

“Go ahead, just take my whole wallet.”

If I had Cardi’s money, I’d do the same.


ENGLAND rugby legend James Haskell would love to follow ex-footballer Vinnie Jones into acting in a gangster drama, like Guy Ritchie’s hit Netflix series The Gentlemen.

He told me: “I met Guy once. We didn’t talk about roles but if there was ever the opportunity, I’d 100 per cent do it.”


SINGER TALIA MAR has released her video for track Pyscho On A Couch.

The Stay The Night hitmaker stars in the video as herself and a therapist as she explains her troubles.

Fans can catch Talia at Koko in London on October 6.

If this video is anything to go by, Talia will certainly put on a show.


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Paloma Faith is ready to teach contestants on The Voice how to make their own kind of music Credit: Getty

PALOMA FAITH is ready to teach contestants on The Voice how to make their own kind of music.

The singer will join Sir Tom Jones as one of the guest mentors as the ITV show’s Battles – in which teammates duet – kick off on October 10.

Delta Goodrem joins Kelly Rowland’s group; Cheryl Tweedy works with WILL.I.AM’s team; and McFly’s Dougie Poynter and Harry Judd assist bandmates Danny Jones and Tom Fletcher.

Next Saturday, viewers get a glimpse of the guests at London’s Alexandra Palace, discussing which acts should make the semi-finals.

A source said: “Watching Cheryl’s return to TV and a glimpse of her role as a coach next series will give fans plenty to look forward to.

“Alongside the experience brought by Paloma, Delta, Dougie and Harry, the Battles will be a series highlight.”

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The holiday destination in Asia boasting festivals and futuristic landmarks that’ll make you feel like you are in Miami

AZERBAIJAN is nicknamed the Land of Fire and is a fascinating mix of Eastern and Western culture.

Antoinette Cumberbatch shares her account of discovering the country’s delicacies, hot weather, rich history, plus a party scene reminiscent of Miami.

Azerbaijan’s capital city Baku is also famous for hosting a Formula 1 race Credit: Getty Images
The Sea Breeze Resort on Azerbaijan’s golden coast is perfectly located for sports activities and beach clubs Credit: Supplied by PR

Watching US rapper Busta Rhymes work the screaming crowd in the balmy 32ºC heat, I feel like I’m in Miami.

In fact, I’m actually dancing the night away beside the Caspian Sea at Azerbaijan’s lively Dream Fest, held each July.

It takes place 35 minutes’ drive from the enthralling capital, Baku, at Sea Breeze Resort on the golden coast, also home to a huge array of sports activities and buzzing beach clubs.

Fish Box serves up excellent sushi, from £13.50 a platter, and with my spacious one-bed pad at White Villas, I get a private garden. Villas sleeping two start from £110 a night (Seabreeze.az).

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Fire Starter

Hours earlier, I’d explored another side of Azerbaijan, which straddles Europe and Asia, discovering why it’s nicknamed the Land of Fire.

On the outskirts of Baku, the Ateshgah Fire Temple vividly brings this to life.

Here, history isn’t tucked behind glass – instead, fire flashes red-hot between ancient stones from an altar in the middle, and I duck through low doorways to learn how merchants stopped here while travelling along the Silk Road. Entry costs £6.50 (Ateshgahtemple.az).

Another eternal flame is Yanar Dagh, a hillside of natural gas where fire burns continuously at a scorching 1,000ºC.

Succulent grilled beef saj is a delicacy at the traditional Novbahar restaurant Credit: Novbahar/Instagram
On the outskirts of Baku, the Ateshgah Fire Temple vividly brings the country’s nickname to life Credit: Getty Images

I finish my fiery sightseeing with a visit to Baku’s Bar19 at Flame Towers, an imposing structure by day and a dazzling sight at night, serving up city views alongside Flame cocktails – a sweet mix of Bacardi, Passoã, amaretto and lime juice, £13 (Fairmont.com).

Come morning, I stroll along the city’s waterfront, Baku Boulevard, to take in more futuristic landmarks, such as Deniz Mall and indoor arena Crystal Hall, plus the world’s largest flying flag in State Flag Square.

Then I explore Icherisherer, the official name for the Old City and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2000.

I wander the labyrinth of passageways, where cats sleep in doorways and locals sell goods including carpets and pillbox sheepskin hats, haggling to nab one of the latter for £12. In other corners, I find locals offering home-made Turkish delight and playing draughts.

Partying at Azerbaijan’s lively Dream Fest made Antoinette feel like she was in Miami Credit: Supplied by PR
A stroll around Highland Park provided an ideal location to see the panoramic view of Baku Credit: Supplied by Antoinette Cumberbatch

A few minutes’ walk from Icherisherer and an array of designer shops, is Art Gallery Hotel, set in a grand Art Deco building with walls adorned with striking pieces.

Luxurious rooms feature quirky headboards, gold lamps and large showers, and stays start from £85 per night (Arthotelbaku.com).

Dumpling Day

Sitting among retro ornaments and mismatched furniture at restaurant Ryumochnaya By Beerbasha, I feast on delicious pasztet – a chicken pâté with jam – £2.20, and moreish chicken Kyiv, £5.65.

The most surprising but incredible dish is a sweet tomato salad with cherry sauce, £5.25 (@Ryumochnaya_beerbasha).

At the more traditional Novbahar, I fill up on dushbara – tiny dumplings in a savoury broth, £2.60 – gutab flatbread filled with pumpkin, £1.30, and succulent grilled beef saj, £17.50. The local pinot grigio pairs nicely, too (Novbahar.az).

As my trip draws to a close, I climb the 12th-century Maiden Tower – 28m high and one of Baku’s most recognisable landmarks – for the sea views.

Entry costs £6.50. But for vistas of the entire city, I find Highland Park unbeatable.

The funicular up to its beautiful gardens costs less than 50p and, as I soak up the panoramic view of Baku, it leaves me awestruck. Just like Azerbaijan itself.

BTW

Direct flights to Azerbaijan start from £466 return.

Find out more about Dream Fest at Dream musicfest.com.

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Cruise experts reveal the secret tips for boosting your holiday

AS Cruise Week draws to a close today, we’ve been highlighting the best deals and giving you inspiration for your next trip.

But what if you’re yet to step onboard?

TUI cruise director Scott Sanders standing on the deck of a cruise ship.
Scott Sanders says: ‘One of the biggest mistakes I see is guests sticking to what they know and not trying something new’ Credit: supplied
A family taking a selfie on a ferry boat.
A family takes snaps out on deck Credit: Getty

We asked cruise experts for top tips for first-timers.

Scott Sanders, cruise director of Marella Cruises, TUI’s UK line, says: “One of the biggest mistakes I see is guests sticking to what they know and not trying something new.

“Whether it’s a dance class, a quiz or one of our West End-style shows, some of the best holiday memories come from stepping outside your comfort zone.”

Scott also encourages guests to make staff aware of any special occasions.

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I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands


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“If you’re celebrating a birthday, anniversary or another milestone, let us know,” he said. “We love helping guests mark those special moments and making their holiday even more memorable.

“And take time to chat to cabin stewards, as they often have some really good tips on ports of call on your sailings or the best places on the ship for a quiet drink or sundowner cocktails.”

Scott also advises familiarising yourself with the ship before embarking.

“Many guests spend their first day trying to work out where everything is.

“Watching an official ship tour or browsing guest videos online before your cruise can help you get your bearings before you even step on board.”

Finally, Scott says to check your phone.

“I always remind guests to switch their phones to airplane mode when we’re at sea and use the onboard wifi instead. It can save people from unexpected roaming charges when they get home.”

Bob McGowan, chief experience officer at Ambassador Cruise Line, has some advice for packing the essentials.

He says: “Always carry the essentials on your person when travelling to your destination (even if that is your cabin). Aside from passport, wallet and personal items, a change of clothes, medication, toothbrush and toiletries are worth packing in hand luggage, as you may arrive to your cabin ahead of the rest of your luggage.

“Handy items to bring on your first cruise include a backpack – great for a big day out enjoying any onshore excursions – and a small evening bag for carrying a few essentials when on the move around the ship.”

He adds: “Seasickness tablets or sea bands are a must. While most first-time cruisers find their sea legs soon after setting sail, if you’re prone to motion sickness it’s better to be safe than sorry.”

And he’s got advice for choosing your cabin, too.

“If you like to have plenty of downtime relaxing in the privacy of your cabin, you may prefer to book one with a balcony to ensure you can make the most of the weather and scenery.

“But if you plan on spending the sailing out-and-about socialising and enjoying all the fantastic experiences on offer, an inside cabin could be better suited and will be a more affordable option.

“If you or a fellow traveller suffers from the occasional bout of seasickness, choosing a lower level midship cabin offers a more stable position, so could be the best choice.”

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I set sail on the quaint cruise that’s the prefect laid-back version of the huge ocean ships

Collage of four images of the Netherlands, including canals with boats and historical buildings, windmills, a street scene, and a night view of a cathedral.

“WHO sang Bat Out Of Hell? Was it: A, Meatballs; B, Tom Jones; C . . . ?”

“A!” shouts my partner Sophie, and I duly push the button.

Glide through the waterways and canals of the Netherlands and Belgium Credit: Achim Thomae
Tui’s super-long Aria has enough room for 200 passengers and feels spacious throughout Credit: Tui

Speed, you see, is key to this quiz.

But, then again, so is the right answer.

We are aboard Tui’s Aria for its Dutch Delta Discovery sailing, taking in the waterways and canals of the Netherlands and Belgium.

And the quiz we are playing, where each team has a handset to record and time their answers, is just a small part of the nightly entertainment.

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See Monaco Grand Prix in 2027 during all-inclusive cruise for £2,299 per person

Other fun includes cabaret, themed dance nights and musical bingo. And one of the joys is how laid-back it all is compared to the more glitzy shows of the huge ocean-going liners.

But while Aria, one of Tui’s quaint ships designed specially for river waterways, was significantly smaller than any ocean liner, it wasn’t less comfy.

With 96 cabins and enough room for 200 passengers, it feels spacious throughout.

There are two main communal areas: the bright Observatory Bar & Lounge on deck three, with floor-to-ceiling windows, and Verdastro restaurant below for plentiful breakfasts, lunches and dinners.

Kinderdijk is home to 19 historic windmills from the 1700s Credit: Tui
Make it to Belgium and walk across the cobbled streets of medieval Ghent Credit: Getty

There is also a pool, covered at night to become the Reflections Italian restaurant.

The main package is Full Board Plus, which includes three meals a day and selected drinks, including wine and beer, with lunch and dinner.

And although you may not have a choice of restaurant every night, the changing menu covered all tastes, with elegant dishes of beef wellington, artichoke souffle and a fresh catch of the day.

Our cabin was large, with plenty of storage and huge glass doors from which to watch the river banks pass by. A daily joy was throwing back the curtains to see what port we had woken up in.

We began our six-night journey in Amsterdam then stopped in Rotterdam, Veere, Ghent and Antwerp before circling back to our starting point. Our favourite was perhaps Rotterdam, the Netherlands’ second city.

It’s built along the river and 99 per cent of the buildings on the north bank were flattened in 15 minutes during a World War Two bombing raid.

It was rebuilt from the Fifties onward and is known for its unusual architecture.

One example is the Cube House development, an eccentric array of 38 bright yellow, cube-shaped houses connected together at stark angles in the sky.

They look like they would be awkward to live in. But don’t just ponder on it from the outside. If you want to find out what it’s like inside, you can tour one for 3.50 euro — and it’s great value.

Aside from the architecture, a major reason Rotterdam delighted Sophie and me was because it was one of the two times we took advantage of the daily guided trips put on by Tui.

The trip was actually a 20-minute taxi boat ride away in Kinderdijk, home to 19 historic windmills from the 1700s.

Now, I knew the Netherlands was famous for windmills, but I was surprised to learn their purpose was not for grinding wheat — but as an ingenious water-management system.

Visit the Anne Frank Museum are recommended to book weeks in advance Credit: Alamy
Visit Cube House in Rotterdam, where 38 houses are connected together at stark angles in the sky

With much of the country reclaimed from marshland, and below sea level, it is prone to flooding when heavy rains swell rivers and overwhelm drainage ditches.

To get round this, the windmills had huge wheels with paddles to scoop out the water from ditches and chuck it into a storage reservoir, which could then be let out into the rivers and sea.

But this aside, they are easy on the eye and it all feels so very Dutch.

If outdoor time is a big selling point for you, then you’ll love Veere in Zeeland (the next call on our trip), which is the region of islands and peninsulas that make up the west of the Netherlands.

If you feel energetic, I’d recommend hiring bikes for a scoot around the very flat landscape. There are lots of cycle lanes, which take you through gorgeous nature reserves and past vast lakes.

You can reward your efforts at the next port of call, Ghent in Belgium, as you sample beer, sausage and cheese on another Tui tour.

Ghent is a medieval gem with cobbled streets lined by fascinating, old-world buildings. It was so easy to immerse ourselves that we almost missed the boat before it set sail.

There’s no need to panic if you struggle to remember those daily timings, though. Tui’s own Navigate app will keep you up to date with the schedule and you can also use it to check menus or book trips.

With our cruise nearing an end, it was back to Amsterdam, a city renowned for its canals and laidback cafes.

You can’t run out of things to do but, in our short time, we opted to visit the Anne Frank Museum. Make sure you book it as soon as you pay for the cruise as you have to reserve weeks in advance.

The secret annex that hid Anne and her family from the Nazis is accessed through a doorway concealed by a movable bookcase. It is a sombre experience climbing into the hideout but a powerful reminder of one of history’s greatest terrors.

It left us feeling even more grateful for the evening feast we were about to tuck into back on board Aria.

A cheeseboard was a definite — I just wonder if they have any Meatloaf.

GO: DUTCH DELTA DISCOVERY CRUISE

SAILING/STAYING THERE: A seven-night Dutch Delta Discovery sailing on board Tui Aria is from £1,638pp based on two people sharing a cabin and including flights from Manchester.

Cruise departs Amsterdam on July 19, 2027, and calls at Zaandam, Rotterdam and Veere in the Netherlands and Ghent and Antwerp in Belgium. See tui.co.uk/rivercruises.

Today is the last day of CLIA Cruise Week, to snap yourself up a great deal head to thesun.co.uk/cruiseweek.

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I visited the winter sun holiday destination that David Beckham calls home

FROM Art Deco architecture and superstar football to incredible Cuban sandwiches and sizzling nightlife, Miami packs a serious punch for a short stay. 

For Brits, it’s often combined with cruises from the Florida city’s port, making it the perfect start or end to a Caribbean cruise this winter.

Explore Miami’s Cuban influence Credit: David Cameron
Cuban sandwich stuffed with roasted pork, ham, swiss cheese and pickles at Old’s Havana Cuban Bar & Cocin Credit: Supplied

The weather remains gorgeous throughout our colder months, with temperatures still in the mid to high 20s.

For first-timers, a stay on Miami Beach puts you right at the centre of the very best of this captivating city.

ARE THESE STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? It’s America — so no, the car remains king. But that’s not to say there aren’t walkable districts.

South Beach and Mid Beach excel with their paved Beachwalk and pedestrianised Lincoln Road is a shoppers’ paradise with all the popular brands and a host of cafes and restaurants offering al fresco dining.

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In trendy Wynwood you can easily explore on foot to take in street art, galleries, boutiques and a buzzing nightlife scene.

ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST? Learn all about the huge Cuban influence on Miami on a food and drink tour of Little Havana with Miami Culinary Tours.

Over two and a half hours, you’ll stroll the streets learning how Cuban exiles transformed the city’s flavours and culture.

Among my favourites were the Cuban sandwich stuffed with roasted pork, ham, swiss cheese and pickles at Old’s Havana Cuban Bar & Cocina, washed down with a perfect mojito and the crispy beef empanadas from El Pub.

Another must is a stroll along South Beach’s Ocean Drive to admire the gorgeous Art Deco buildings Credit: Getty
The Sun’s Lisa Minot on Miami Beach Credit: Supplied

But the tour also features stops at a traditional Cuban cigar shop and Domino Park to watch the locals play fast-paced games.

Another must is a stroll along South Beach’s Ocean Drive to admire the gorgeous Art Deco buildings — book a guided walk through getyourguide.com to bring the history to life.

And football fans won’t want to miss a match at Nu Stadium — home to Inter Miami CF, co-owned by David Beckham and famous for signing Lionel Messi.

WHERE SHOULD I EAT? Award- winning Austin chef Tyson Cole brings his very modern take on Japanese cuisine to Miami with not one but two restaurants, each offering a vast variety of unusual sushi, sashimi and nigiri paired with quirky flavours from citrus to smoke.

Uchi in Wynwood leans into the citrus while sister restaurant Uchiko is all about char and open-flame cooking. The vast menus can be a bit overwhelming but the brilliant staff will guide you and the quality is outstanding. Visit during the daily Happy Hours to enjoy it for a fraction of the price.

I FANCY A DRINK: Of course, for the in-crowd and those with deep pockets, there are plenty of stunning cocktail joints and seriously cool hotel bars on South Beach — including MILA just off Lincoln Road and the Matador Bar at the Miami Beach Edition.

But for those of us with smaller bank balances, taking advantage of happy hours is a great way to save. Sweet Liberty in Collins Park in Mid Beach has a popular happy hour from 4pm to 7pm with cocktails from £7.40 and craft beers from £4.50. Cafe La Trova in Little Havana sees waiters formally serving up Cuban daiquiris and mojitos.

Or head to Veza Sur Brewing Co. & Cerveceria La Tropical in Wynwood for an outdoor beer garden with pints from £5.20.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? For all the benefits of South Beach without the crowds, stay at gorgeous Art Deco gem, The Palms Hotel and Spa.

Just ten minutes by car from Ocean Drive and Wynwood, the hotel’s lush gardens feature a pool and tiki bar plus plenty of loungers.

You can stroll onto the stunning white sands where even more loungers and shades await.

The hotel has a great focus on sustainability — you can pick up a bucket on the beach to help tidy up and be rewarded with a free gelato.

The light and airy rooms have an understated, tropical vibe and the ocean views are stunning.            

GO: MIAMI                                   

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Find holiday bliss on a Mediterranean cruise with two teens

STANDING on the deck with an Aperol spritz in hand and watching the beautiful Sicilian city of Messina fade into the distance, I feel like I am living the dream.

And indeed we pretty much have been since me, my husband Alistair and our 15-year-old twins Riley and Harris set off from the port of Barcelona on a seven-night Mediterranean cruise.

The charming and colourful Amalfi Coast, Italy Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

As first-time cruisers, from the moment we step on to NCL’s 2,100-room, 18-deck Norwegian Epic – which underwent a massive refurb last year – it is brilliant fun.

Having checked on to the ship, we head to deck 15, with its two pools and three waterslides, to wait for our luggage to be delivered to our balcony state cabins.

Here, we take a peek at our fellow passengers – an eclectic mix of young and old from America, Canada, the UK and everywhere in between – as we settle on sunloungers with drinks and enjoy the live music, while waiting to depart.

Leaving Barcelona, we pass another ship and everyone cheers and waves to our fellow cruisers.

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The party atmosphere makes for the most lovely holiday vibe.

All decked out

Pisa towers above Sinead and husband Alistair Credit: Supplied by Sinead McIntyre.
The cobbled streets of Messina Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto

With so much to do on the ship, you could never be bored.

There are 16 restaurants, including brilliant inclusive eateries such as the buffet Garden Cafe and the waiter-serviced Manhattan Room and Spice restaurants, plus seven speciality options, which we can dine at as part of our free-at-sea package.

For our first night we opt for Shanghai’s Noodle Bar, which we talk about for days afterwards.

There, we tuck into starters including sushi and spare ribs before mains of black pepper beef with broccoli, melt-in-the-mouth snapper, chicken and prawn chow mein, and egg fried rice, all washed down with sake for me and Alistair.

Our cabins have super-comfy twin beds pulled together into doubles, a sofa, shower and toilet, as well as tonnes of storage space and a TV.

We barely feel the boat move as we fall into a deep sleep, waking the next day in Marseille, where we decide to spend our first full day exploring the ship’s decks from top to bottom, taking advantage of enjoying the attractions while most guests are on shore.

Riley and Harris are delighted to find a Starbucks, while I love the serene Mandara Spa with its 50 different treatments, and we all gasp at the huge gym.

There is also teenage club Entourage, as well as Epic Theatre, where evening shows take place.

We particularly enjoy Red, White & British – a show of covers from Brit artists through the decades.

Plus, there’s a video arcade centre and a huge casino, as well as countless bars.

Exploring done, we head to the pool to test the water slides, including the 200ft bowl slide.

Excursions – which start from £37 per person – can be booked via the NCL app pre-departure or on board, and save you having to find your own way around new destinations.

However, our second stop is Villefranche-sur-Mer, a pastel-coloured coastal town where the shingle beach is just a stroll from where we disembark the ship’s tender, making a beach day a no-brainer.

Afterwards, we hit the town’s cobbled backstreets and pretty shops, marvelling at the handmade jewellery in Jour De Plage and eclectic clothes in cute Le Shopping De Nat on Rue de l’Église.

The station, with regular trains to nearby Nice and Monaco, is a stone’s throw away though, and many of our fellow cruisers set off to explore those cities instead.

Pisa The Action

Peak views of Mount Vesuvius Credit: Roberto Moiola
Catch a vibrant show at the Epic Theatre Credit: Supplied

That evening, we try Cagney’s Steakhouse, where we feast on jumbo shrimp cocktail or lobster bisque, followed by ribeye and fillet steaks served with a choice of sides – we love the parmesan truffle fries.

For dessert, the seven-layer chocolate cake is divine.

Our first excursion of the week is the following day when we arrive at Italy’s Livorno and take a coach to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa in all its glory.

Close by, we happen upon amazing pizzeria Santa Maria, where an extra-large pepperoni pizza costs £16.50 and feeds Alistair, Harris and me, while Riley plumps for a focaccia sandwich with mozzarella, £7 (Ristorantesantamaria.com).

The day ends with a trip to the historic seaside town of Viarregio, where we cool off with a dip in the crystal-clear water.

Opting to go it alone in Messina – as the port is located right in the city – we pop into the stunning Messina Cathedral, home to the world’s biggest, most complex astronomical clock, which stands 60m tall inside its bell tower.

Feeling suitably cultured, we then grab a taxi to Capo Peloro, a beautiful beach on Sicily’s north-eastern tip, where the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas meet.

Just Our Vibe

Your cabin is calling Credit: Rick Diaz Photography
Unwind on deck with an Aperol spritz in hand Credit: Getty Images

Back on the ship, both teens decide to chill in their rooms, so Alistair and I grab the opportunity to head to Vibe Club, an oasis of adults-only calm on the 18th deck with four-poster sunbeds and a hot tub, where we sip cocktails as we say our goodbyes to Messina.

Dinner that night at the Teppanyaki is our stand-out meal of the week.

We feast like kings on miso soup and seaweed salad, and marvel as the chefs sing songs, catch eggs for the fried rice in their hats and cook up a storm.

My steak-and-prawn combo is delicious, as is the sake-based wasabi cocktail I wash it down with.

We finish the night at our favourite bar, Shaker’s Martini Bar, where I’ve developed a taste for the Dirty Martinis, and my whole gang love their nightly live music.

Our last full day cruising is spent on the stunning Amalfi Coast, where our excursion takes us past Mount Vesuvius and to the Phlegraean Peninsula, so we can snorkel above the Roman resort of Baia, with its marvellous mosaics that now lie submerged up to 13 metres below the sea, before relaxing on the golden sands.

It’s an Italian bank holiday, and at the nearby beach club dozens are drinking prosecco, eating whitebait cooked in a huge metal vat of oil and dancing to their hearts’ content.

This couldn’t be a more fitting end to our cruise – pulling up in the port of Civitavecchia, near Rome, the next morning, we’ve laughed, danced, eaten, drunk and experienced some of the most beautiful places in the world.

FYI

The seven-day Mediterranean Barcelona to Rome voyage with Norwegian Cruise Line starts from £505 per person (Ncl.com).

Add a Free At Sea package, from £249 per person, for unlimited drinks and speciality dining.

Flights to Barcelona, returning from Rome, start from £18 each way.

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I made mistakes bringing up Bobby & Freddy… If I was man I am today, they may have escaped the trauma, says Jeff Brazier

TV host Jeff Brazier admits he has made too many mistakes bringing up sons Bobby and Freddy.

He became a single dad after his ex, Big Brother star Jade Goody, died from cervical cancer in 2009 aged just 27.

Jeff Brazier admits he has made mistakes bringing up sons Bobby (pictured) and Freddy Credit: Homeserve
Jeff says Bobby and Freddy would be better off if they were raised by the man he is today

Jeff — who has since had years of therapy — believes that if model Bobby, 23, and Race Across The World star Freddy, 21, had been raised by the man he is today, they may have escaped some of the trauma, turmoil and family fallouts.

He told the Sun on Sunday: “You always look back with hindsight and feel like, ‘If only I was the version of myself I am today 20 years ago, how much of a better experience of me they would have had’.

“Maybe that might have eliminated some of the bumps in the road we’ve had . . .  you look at the things you could have done better.”

Those “bumps” have at times proved particularly painful for Freddy, with much of the family tension centred around his close bond with his maternal grandmother Jackiey Budden, 69.

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Jeff has always considered Jade’s mum to be a bad influence on the boys.

And Freddy, who has been to rehab, been sectioned and suffered manic episodes, has previously claimed Jackiey got him “hooked” on cannabis.

Things got so bad that last year, a concerned Jeff started legal proceedings in a bid to keep Jackiey away from his son.

Yet despite their clashes, Jeff and Freddy have always found their way back to each other — most recently in March following the arrival of Freddy’s daughter Isla with his on-off girlfriend Holly Swinburn.

The boys’ mum Jade Goody died from cervical cancer in 2009 aged just 27 Credit: PA/PA Photos
Jeff is now a proud grandad to Bobby’s daughter Isla Credit: Instagram

Jeff, 47, says: “Thanks to all the mistakes and all the lessons and the learnings along the way, I get to love Isla with a sense of confidence.

“The strength of connection you can have with a grandchild is really special.

“With Isla, it just feels ­natural, effortless and easy, and there’s no ­complications around it.”

Jeff can often be seen on This Morning, has worked with The One Show and TNT Sports and now fronts the Let’s Save Water campaign, urging families to make small changes to help tackle Britain’s shortage after the hot summer.

But the TV star admits he has struggled since his sons moved out of the family home in Essex.

“When they left, I went through nine months of what felt like ­absolute grief,” he admits.

“It’s not just the absence of your children. It’s more the grieving of the role that you played, that you got really comfortable playing.

“It felt like a slow relinquishing of control and responsibility, to the point where you feel redundant.

Jeff found fame on reality show Shipwrecked in 2001 before meeting Big Brother star Jade Credit: Rex Features
The TV presenter says he found it tough after his sons grew up and moved out of home Credit: News Group Newspapers Ltd

“Life is a lot quieter right now — the peace can be deafening — but there’s also part of you that’s, like, ‘Shouldn’t I be doing something for someone somewhere?’ ”

Jeff’s home is also quieter following the end of his seven-year ­marriage to PR executive Kate Dwyer last year.

Yet Jeff, who first found fame on reality show Shipwrecked in 2001, is learning to embrace this new chapter and finally put himself first.

He is also discovering how to play again so that he can be the best grandfather possible.

It was Freddy, who suffers from ADHD, who first told him he needed to loosen up, while they filmed Celebrity Race Across The World in 2024.

Jeff, who spent much of his ­childhood in foster care, said: “He ­basically hit the nail on the head.

“As a child, I probably didn’t play that much, or feel safe to play. I’m trying to undo that.”

In a bid to become more playful, Jeff has even signed up to wrestle strangers after discovering the ­unusual kind of therapy at a ­spiritual festival.

“The more you do it, the more you free something up and heal something,” he says.

“Obviously, no one’s allowed to hurt anyone. But to go and enjoy retreats like that, you’re basically taking your inner child with you.

“That’s where I hope I will be in ten years — running a retreat on a renovated farm in the countryside.

“I would still be exercising and showing up for people, and I’d be looking after numerous grand- children and feel all the love.”

Could that future also include finding love again?

“I hope so,” he says. “Yeah, I believe that will happen to me.”

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I stayed at one of Eurocamp’s top beachfront resorts

MY childhood summer holidays began and ended with me squashed into a hatchback car with tents, campbeds and pool floats, as my family travelled to Europe for a week’s camping.

The only luxuries were a wine and cheese evening (for my parents), the morning croissant run to the bakery on site (my sister and I) and our mains-powered coolbox (my dad).

This huge beachfront site has a seriously glam pool Credit: Supplied
The al fresco stage at the park Credit: Alain Baars

Oh, how the world of camping has changed since then.

This summer, a school-mum pal and I took our kids to one of the top-rated sites of camping specialist Eurocamp — and 5* Les Prairies de la Mer, on the French Riviera, just 15 minutes from St Tropez, could not have been more different from those breaks of my early years.

This huge beachfront site even has its own spa, that bakery on site, which also features seven kinds of fresh bread, a seriously glam pool and a supermarket stocking about 30 different types of rosé wine.

Oh, and some of those wines were just 4.50 euros a bottle — and perfectly drinkable.

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There are also further delights — a petting zoo, small fairground, two beachfront bars and restaurants, a hair salon and an inland bar that plays really decent live music every night.

If you can hack the heat, there are plenty of sporting activities, too, from sailing and archery to tennis and football.

I could lie and say I did all of the sports — but I didn’t.

In 35C heat in May, with three seven-year-old boys in tow, most days we pinballed between pool and beach, fairground and playground.

The huge, lagoon-shaped beachside pool, with its own palm tree, is a joy in itself — and only more so for its stylish bar, serving enormous pitchers of rosé for six euros, and French fries.

But it would be criminal to visit the French Riviera and not explore.

Les Prairies de la Mer is next to Port Grimaud, a car-free seaside town with waterfront Provencal-style houses that each have their own mooring for a boat.

You can see why the place is nicknamed the Venice of Provence.

We had a great time wandering the streets and visiting the Sunday market, which sells everything from local olives to honey and flowers.

The campsite also lays on a land train (€10 adults and €6 kids) to the medieval hillside village of Grimaud where you will find cobblestone streets, a 12th-century church and an even older ruined castle, all with great views over the surrounding countryside.

We also made it down to glamorous St Tropez, famed for its annual film festival.

The place is worth a visit just to ogle the huge yachts in the marina, wander the old town and eyeball the rich tourists who head to upscale shopping street Rue Francois Sibilli for high-end stores such as Louis Vuitton, Dior and Hermes.

The camp’s seafront dining spot Credit: Alain Baars
St Tropez’s Vieux Port Credit: Getty

But my favourite day was when we rented a speedboat — through SamBoat, an app that bills itself as “the AirBnb of boats”.

It allows you to search locations, near where you are holidaying, for more than 50,000 chartered boats and yachts, that come with or without a captain.

We opted for a large speedboat that could take up to 12 people, as it could pick us up from the neighbouring marina — and it was super-easy to book.

The speedboat hire was 380 euros without a skipper, otherwise 630 euros.

We opted for the latter and, if there are 12 of you, this works out at just over 50 euros a head — not bad for a day on the water.

We bought cheese, wine, cakes and other goodies beforehand, at the marina supermarket, then toured the beautiful coastline before mooring in one of the many bays, where we swam, played on lilos and generally had the best time.

On the way home, we stopped off in the St Tropez marina to check out again the beautiful people and yachts.

This fabled French town is also the setting for the upcoming fourth series of TV hit The White Lotus, expected to air next year — and this corner of France is a serious magnet for celebrities.

Port Grimaud Market place Credit: Alamy
The Sun’s Caroline McGuire and son living the high life Credit: Supplied

Indeed, on our flight alone there were THREE famous faces.

Glamour girl Kelly Brook was in Business Class with actor husband Jeremy Parisi, while Pixie Geldof and sister Tiger Lily Hutchence-Geldof roughed it with us in Economy.

They were all (like us) taking advantage of British Airways’ newest route from London City Airport to Toulon-Hyeres in the South of France, which operates twice-weekly during the summer months.

The seaside city of Toulon is a taxi ride away from St Tropez and other A-lister holiday destinations such as Grimaud and Sainte Maxime.

Or if you don’t have deep pockets like the celebrities, there is a coach to St Tropez that leaves twice daily from the airport and costs 2.50 euros per person.

It also stops at a number of other holiday destinations en route.

It took us nearly all the way to our Eurocamp site, from where it was just a ten-euro cab ride.

So, plenty of spare cash for the lashings of rosé.

GO: ST TROPEZ

GETTING THERE: British Airways flies from London City airport to Toulon-Hyeres from £90 each way.

See britishairways.com.

STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ self-catering in a Premium two-bedroom holiday home at Les Prairies De La Mer Eurocamp is from £303.21pp, based on four sharing (£1,212.82 per party) for arrival on May 29, 2027.

See eurocamp.com.

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I visited Dolly Parton’s brand new Nashville hotel

A GIANT glittery guitar hangs next to bright pink awnings and a huge sign that reads: “Dolly Parton’s SongTeller Hotel”.

The 12-storey building was one of the music icon’s final projects — and while she won’t get to see it open following her death at the age of 80 last month, it will ensure her legacy lives on in Nashville.

Music legend Dolly Parton died aged 80 in August Credit: Camera Press
The SongTeller Hotel opens this month Credit: AP

Parton was heavily involved in the creation of the 240-room hotel, which is a glittering addition to the Tennessee skyline and an absolute must-visit for fans.

It opens to the public on September 29, and I was one of the lucky few granted a first look.

A number of Parton’s costumes will be exhibited in the lobby in a nod to Dolly’s Life of Many Colors Museum on the third floor, where interconnected digital screens tell a 15-minute story of her life.

General manager Shannon Foster says: “We are expecting ­people to walk in even when they’re not staying here. We want everyone to feel welcome.”

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Hotel guests will encounter more moments of magical discovery as they move through the elegant building, where song lyrics are etched on to doorframes.

Guests can choose from four room categories — even the most basic of which has the wow factor. But those with cash to splash can spoil themselves with a night in the Acoustic Suite, which is completely geared up for songwriters.

Its living area comes with a keyboard, while drawer liners adorned with Parton’s famous quotes add a personal touch.

The most heartwarming element of the hotel, however, are the Six Sisters rooms on every floor.

The must-visit Country Music Hall of Fame Credit: Getty
Nashville is music city Credit: Jeremy Poland

“When the designers asked Dolly what she wanted most in the hotel, she replied that she’d always wanted to share a room with her five ­sisters,” Foster explained.

The result is a touching tribute to the Parton family bond — a suite with three double beds separated by candy-stripe curtains and a washroom with two showers and toilets.

The rooms are connected by a ­living area in the middle with a curved sofa, a side table painted with each sister’s favourite flower and a chandelier decorated with the siblings’ birthstones.

Foster considers the second floor to be the heart of the operation, though, with guests taking a lift up to a gold sparkling desk to check in.

Parton’s Live — cosy seating around a stage, and bar space ­created to showcase upcoming talent — sits opposite.

But the jewel in the hotel’s crown looks likely to be the late-night lounge Jolene’s, on the top floor.

It will open daily from 5pm and serve punchy cocktails, and a food menu to suit.

A spectacular view over Second Avenue and the Cumberland River — where the famous 4th of July fireworks take place — means Jolene’s will, arguably, have the best seat in the house for the celebration.

The opulent bathroom Credit: Supplied
The Six Sisters room Credit: Supplied

The hotel may be opening a month after the singer’s tragic death but her touch is everywhere.

It’s in the diamante trim on bottle-green barstools, in the corset lacing on the back of a pink ­velvet chair and in the words etched into the corner of a mirror.

“Dolly approved every single rendering that became a reality,” Foster said.

“The hotel is Dolly’s gift to Nashville.”

Parton’s influence on her spiritual home is undeniable and if you plan to visit, it’s well worth exploring beyond the hotel.

Her star in the Music City Walk of Fame Park, near the hotel, remains encircled with floral tributes.

The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, opposite the park, has been running a special exhibition about the music legend for the past 17 months.

Dolly Parton — Journey of a Seeker is due to end in October but the singer is honoured throughout for her music and activism.

A number of Parton’s costumes will be exhibited in the lobby Credit: Supplied
A Dolly’s Life of Many Colors Museum is on the third floor, where interconnected digital screens tell a 15-minute story of her life Credit: Supplied

Parton, whose Imagination Library has gifted over three million books to children worldwide — unwittingly entwined her identity into Nashville when she debuted at the Ryman auditorium at the age of 13.

She would not have known she would return to that very stage bigger and brighter each time.

And she definitely would not have dreamed that some day, she would own a hotel just three minutes away from the auditorium.

This is Dolly’s parting gift to Nashville. And it’s worth working 9 to 5 to bag yourself a room.

GO: NASHVILLE

GETTING THERE: British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Nashville from £677pp return, including 23kg luggage.

See britishairways.com.

STAYING THERE: Rooms at Dolly Parton’s Songteller Hotel cost from around $501 (approx £370) per night.

See songtellerhotel.com.

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Braless Brooks Nader turns heads in totally see through dress as she enjoys night out ahead of Baywatch reboot

IT’S totally transparent how Baywatch actress Brooks Nader turns heads as she has a night out in a see-through dress.

The 29-year-old finished off the look with black high heels.

Baywatch actress Brooks Nader turned heads in this see-through dress Credit: Instar Images
Brooks has made her name as a swimsuit model, pictured last month Credit: Getty

The US star, who made her name as a swimsuit model, was in New York at an event as part of Fashion Week in the city.

Brooks, who also features with her sisters in reality show Love Thy Nader, is a lifeguard in the reboot of TV series Baywatch, which will air next year.

Earlier in the week, The Sun also revealed the star attended a CDFA event to kick off New York Fashion Week, and was spotted in the glam outfit on the night out.

Brooks opted to wear a sheer black dress made entirely from lace, which hugged her curves.

SHEER DELIGHT

Brooks Nader stuns in risky outfit as she goes braless in see-through top


LACY LADY

Brooks Nader stuns as she flashes her boobs and bum in see-through lace outfit

Her matching underwear cheekily peeked through under the fabric.

Brooks also ditched her bra for the occasion, baring her figure for all to see.

She finished the look off with a pair of black high heels and left her hair loosely flowing in a subtle wave down her back.

This isn’t the first time Brooks has been bold with her fashion choices.

The actress also features with her sisters in reality show Love Thy Nader Credit: Getty
Stunner Brooks is a lifeguard in the reboot of TV series Baywatch Credit: Splash

Less than two weeks ago she ditched her underwear again in France in a sexy white gown.

Brooks wore a white, T-shirt cut backless dress in the City of Love, which featured high cutouts on the sides of her hips and bum.

A large bruise was visible on her left buttock.

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Three of the best multi-gen holidays that work for both kids AND grandparents

Collage of a multi-generational family on vacation in front of a blue sea with boats and a town on a hill.

GRAB granny and pack your bags – multi-generational holiday packages are an absolute bargain.

It comes as new research from Jet2 reveals that more and more families are bringing the grandparents with them on holiday.

Three generations of a family smiling outdoors by the ocean.
All ages can bond on a sunshine holiday together Credit: PeopleImages
Scenic view of Lindos Acropolis and beach on Rhodes island, Aegean Sea.
Sparkling Lindos on the Greek island of Rhodes Credit: davidionut

According to booking data, most family trips are taken in groups of five or six, with the Canary Islands proving to be the most popular spot.

Choice of destination is a huge consideration for multi-gen groups, with 43 per cent choosing somewhere based solely on suitability for their party.

Following the Canary Islands on the list of most in-demand multi-generational getaway locations is Turkey, the Balearic Islands, Greece and mainland Spain.

Sophie Swietochowski shares her pick of holidays for the whole family . . . 

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TENERIFE

Promising year-round sunshine and affordable deals, the rugged Canary Isle of Tenerife is the sweet spot for families after something quick and easy with unlimited R&R.

Check in to the 4H Paradise Park Fun Lifestyle Hotel, which has enough to keep the kids happy while the older generations kick back with a pina colada.

Kids’ clubs, for those aged four to 12, will keep them busy in the day with arts, crafts and competitions, while evening entertainment is geared up for everyone, with bingo, live music and mini discos.

Five outdoor pools ensure you won’t struggle to find a sunlounger and there’s an onsite spa, too.

GO: TENERIFE

Seven nights’ B&B is from £619pp including flights from London Stansted on September 15.

Price is based on four adults and two children sharing, 22kg baggage allowance and return transfers. See jet2holidays.com.

TURKEY

This European hotspot is crammed with all-inclusive resorts where vast food choices help take the faff out of having multiple mouths to feed.

The Aquapark at Orka World Hotel stays open until mid-October and the kids will absolutely love it.

The park is home to 13 water slides, four pools and a lazy river that even the grandparents can enjoy.

You’ll keep well fuelled at the buffet restaurant, which has all the favourites plus some traditional Turkish offerings, including pide (a savoury flatbread) and gozleme (a thin, doughy pancake stuffed with spinach, feta or meat).

GO: TURKEY

Seven nights’ all-inclusive is from £600pp including flights from London Gatwick on September 30.

Price is based on four adults and two children sharing two rooms and includes luggage and transfers. See easyjet.com/en/holidays.

GREECE

You don’t need to spend buckets to bag a deal that will suit everyone, and the calm Rodos Palace resort in Rhodes is a prime example.

The Greek island offers fascinating history for the grandparents to sink their teeth into, as well as high-intensity activities for the kids and views that look super in the sunshine.

Rooms are bright and airy, while the eight restaurants on site will ensure you’re never short of dinner options.

There’s also a plush private beach with plump cabanas and a volleyball net.

GO: GREECE

Seven nights’ all-inclusive is from £439pp including flights from East Midlands on September 29.

Price is based on four adults and one child sharing a family suite and includes luggage. See loveholidays.com.

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I stayed at the Spanish island resort with guided volcano tours, seven swimming pools and 26C autumns

Collage of a Tenerife resort with a pool, a patio, a tart, and a mountain above clouds.

I NEVER ever thought I’d be into geology – but after a week on a nature reserve in Tenerife, I’m officially an earth geek.

Admittedly, the ice-cold margaritas served inside the tranquil oasis of Barcelo Tenerife oiled my educational rediscovery of the island’s natural wonders, but now I am well and truly hooked.

Mount Teide volcano erupted millions of years ago Credit: Getty
Kick back and relax on the hotel terrace Credit: Manolo Yllera

My last memory of visiting Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, was marred by an over-excited, elderly sailor who threatened to throw my beloved teddy bear into the path of an approaching pod of pilot whales when I was only eight years old.

But after touching down 31 years later, I rediscovered my love for it.

The Barcelo Tenerife, my home for the trip, is set within 124 acres of almost untouched land in the San Blas Environmental Reserve — and it fully takes advantage of its rural surroundings.

It’s not just the decor that sets the tone for rustic Tenerife — guests at the resort can book a guided tour through the reserve that will showcase the best of Tenerife’s wild scenery.

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During my two-hour or so trek through the fascinating landscapes, I touched stone formed by molten lava as well as compressed volcanic ash, a type of rock that created the foundations of the island after the (still active) Mount Teide volcano erupted millions of years ago.

It was one of the best experiences I’ve had — and reminded me that this gorgeous island offers so much more than just sun-drenched beaches and cocktails by the pool.

Make sure to try and catch a look at Teide on your flight in — the mountain top peeps out above the clouds.

While it is still active, the last eruption happened in 1909 and there’s nothing to suggest it’s going to happen again in the next 100 years or so, so visitors need not panic.

The Sun’s Ellie crosses a lake on a pulley boat Credit: Unknown
Enjoy some paddle board fun in the hotel pool

When it comes to history, the mighty volcano isn’t all the island has to boast about, though.

Travellers visiting the San Blas Environmental Reserve can observe the archaeological remains of the Guanches, an indigenous community who first inhabited the islands.

Fans of The Lord Of The Rings will also recognise many of the rocky pastures as sets from the show.

It’s well worth exploring this striking landscape — if you can tear yourself away from the seven luxurious swimming pools at the hotel.

The Barcelo Tenerife manages to exude luxury without stomping on thousands of years of history — as the incredible scenery has been incorporated into the hotel’s earthy design.

The beauty of the land is seen in every inch of the hotel, from the terracotta plant pots on the terraces to its clay-coloured buildings.

Barcelo Tenerife also prides itself on its eco-friendly ethos, with sustainability built in, not tacked on — and walking through the building, you feel immersed in the natural environment.

Along with solar power energy, the hotel relies on energy-efficient lighting and ethical food supplies.

Enjoy a break at the blissful Barcelo Tenerife hotel Credit: M Collective
It’s foodie heaven at Barcelo Tenerife Credit: Manolo Yllera

And with a 500,000-square-metre nature reserve on your doorstep, you could walk a different route every day and still feel like you have explored more of Tenerife than anyone else.

The food options include an impressive and tasty buffet for breakfast, while fine-dining restaurant La Dolce Vita Trattoria brings a taste of Italy while using superb Spanish produce.

Creamy burrata served with locally-reared beef carpaccio was a highlight, as was a tasting menu inside the Arrozante Restaurant — where I had a truly wonderful paella.

The hotel is a five-star — and worth it — but if you fancy spending a little more, upgrading to the Royal Level is worth saving your cash for.

A private pool and access to a premium bar and restaurant give you a chance to live the high life without breaking the bank too much (from just £160 per night).

Rooms have a slightly more elevated feel to them, too, with chic, sandy-toned furnishings inspired by the nature reserve and fabulous views of the ocean.

But the hotel is so well proportioned and the nature reserve so vast, I don’t think you could ever feel cramped, even during the high season.

Now is the best time to visit, too, with the weather in the UK finally taking a rather more drizzly turn, announcing the official arrival of autumn.

San Blas Environmental Reserve Credit: Alamy

GO: TENERIFE

GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from London Southend to Tenerife from £50 return. See ryanair.com.

STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Barcelo Tenerife hotel cost from £139 per night based on two people sharing on a B&B basis.

Royal Level rooms at the Barcelo Tenerife are from £160 per night based on two people sharing and including breakfast. See barcelo.com.

In Tenerife, by contrast, temperatures tend to stay balmy throughout this time of year — with highs of 26C in October perfect for both sunbathing and exploring the island — and even into winter.

My helpful hotel guide informed me that Tenerife has only had five days of rain in the last four years, so the sunshine is pretty much guaranteed.

It’s a go-to destination for winter sun and I, for one, am sold.

See you again in November, Tenerife — and this time, I’ll be bringing along my walking boots.

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I tried the new Northern Lights train with VERY affordable tickets

SEEING the Northern Lights tops many a traveller’s bucket list.

The problem is, they can be elusive and costly to find and because they are at the whim of nature, there are never any guarantees . . . until now, that is.

Jo Kessell standing in snow with the Northern Lights in the sky.
Jo Kessell beams in front of the Aurora borealis Credit: Supplied
Journalist Jo Kessell stands in the snow in front of the Arctic Train.
Jo poses in front of the Arctic Train Credit: Supplied

There is a new Northern Lights Train in Norway which promises to take you where there’s a greater chance of spotting the Aurora Borealis than ever before. It costs £115pp and looks so good I booked a ticket.

Meeting point: Narvik Station, high in the Arctic Circle. Waiting on Platform 1 is a four-carriage train, guide Lill and buckets of white stuff. It’s been snowing non-stop from thick, heavy clouds.

Spotting the Aurora normally requires a clear sky, so these conditions are far from ideal. Do we really have a chance of seeing them? Lill consults an app and smiles. “Yes,” she says.

I’m nonetheless sceptical as I hop on board.

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WINTER WONDERLAND

My night in Arctic igloo where you can watch the Northern Lights in bed

The three-hour experience includes a 90-minute stop in the Arctic wilderness and, as the train pulls off, lights are dimmed to better see the Aurora.

After we’ve rattled past Narvik’s fjord and suspension bridge, a fellow passenger points excitedly at the window. Outside, a green plume is painting the sky.

Well I never — our first sighting.

From here, we climb north into the mountains towards the Swedish border. This historic track was built in 1902 and is still used to transport iron ore from Sweden’s Kiruna mines to the port of Narvik and beyond.

Our destination is Katterat — a remote, 373m-high (1,224ft) outpost accessible only by train or foot.

There’s no light pollution or civilisation and, thanks to its altitude, the sky is usually clear here when elsewhere else it’s not.

Once we’ve arrived and descended on to the platform, nobody budges — we’re too busy looking up.

Streaking overhead are bands of green criss-crossing a starlit sky.

Necks crane, photos are taken and the excitement is palpable. A trail leads to a makeshift camp where there are snowshoes to try, fires to warm hands and an indigenous Sami tent called a “lavvu” for shelter, with hot drinks, biscuits and sausages.

Despite the sub-zero temperatures (it’s -20C), nobody cares about warming up because we’re all too fixated on the sky show.

One moment the aurora shines to the right, the next to the left.

They come, they go; they fade, they flare; they keep us guessing, eyes peeled. It’s a magical night.

This train is one of many ways to chase the Northern Lights but there’s still magic to be found when the Green Lady plays shy.

On an excursion with Arctic Moments the next night, we sip hot chocolate and toast cinnamon buns on a fire in a Narnia wonderland.

No Aurora but happy memories with photos included in the package.

Narvik’s also a superb base for other adventures. There’s downhill skiing — it’s hosting the 2029 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships — as well as cross-country skiing, considered Norway’s national sport.

I give it a go but it’s harder than it looks — even on flat terrain.

There are also historical links. A fierce World War Two naval battle was fought and lost in Narvik in 1940 — Norway was occupied by Germany afterwards — and the town’s War Museum tells this story.

A new boat excursion even sends a drone underwater so you can see the shipwrecks on the ocean floor.

Narvik has everything from self-catering apartments to hotels offering Scandi-style breakfasts — think herring and smoked salmon — to the deluxe glass cabins of Camp 291, which cling to the mountainside.

This is my favourite accommodation, with superb fjord views.

Hiring a car allows you to explore even further. Polar Park is home to lynxes, musk oxen, moose and wolves. I’m taught how to howl and, amazingly, they howl back.

Best of all is the Arctic fox experience. You get to feed them but be prepared — they’re playful and love nothing more than clambering all over you.

For a final treat, I head to Narvik’s floating Arctic Sauna where a hole and a ladder lead directly from the heat into the chilly sea.

But the ultimate thrill is the Aurora Borealis. Travellers have been trying to find the best and most reliable way to see them.

Norway’s Northern Lights Train may just be the coolest way to do just that.

GO: NARVIK, NORWAY

GETTING/STAYING THERE: Four nights’ B&B in Narvik with Best Served Scandinavia is from £1,995pp including return flights with Norwegian Airlines, hire car, activities, entrance to Polar Park, one night in a glass cabin and the Northern Lights Train. See best-served.co.uk.

OUT & ABOUT: The Northern Lights Train costs £115 for adults, £58 for under-17s; under-6s go free. See arctictrain.com.

For driving advice for winter roads in arctic Norway, see northernnorway.com.

MORE INFO: See norwegian .com and visitnarvik.com.

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From Sichuan dishes and giant pandas to temples and mountains

THE home of fiery Sichuan dishes and giant pandas, China’s Chengdu is an adventure you’ll never forget, says writer Qin Xie.

I’m watching a clumsy brawl between two sulky teens. They keep lunging at each other with gusto, but neither manages to land a single punch.

China’s Chengdu, on the Jinjiang river, is an adventure you’ll never forget Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Find inner peace at one of Chengdu’s many temples Credit: Supplied by Qin Xie

Instead, both end up rolling on the floor covered in leaves.

If these were human teenagers, I might not be laughing, but, thankfully, it’s a pair of juvenile pandas.

They can barely stand up without a wobble, but still seem totally serious about winning, so have been chasing each other around their huge open-air enclosure for the last 10 minutes, dodging behind trees and somersaulting down ramps.

Eventually, one gives up and runs off – but not before making a loud, protesting squeal that triggers a burst of laughter from the crowd.

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The scrappy pair are residents of Panda Base in Chengdu, a sprawling conservation park in south-west China that’s credited with bringing the bears back from the brink of extinction.

Of the 2,700 or so pandas alive today, around 80% live in Sichuan (the province of which Chengdu is the capital), and about 10% are at Panda Base, so there’s no better place to see them. Plus, tickets are a bargain £6.

I was born in Chengdu, so I’ve been coming to the park for years, but only learned recently that if you want to see the bears at their most active, you have to get there early – it’s why the park is open by 8am every day (Panda.org.cn).

Go Green

Meet the paw-some pandas in Chengdu Credit: Visual China Group via Getty Ima
Climb Mount Qingcheng Credit: Shutterstock

Still relatively unknown compared to the likes of Beijing and Shanghai, Chengdu is actually a mega-city, home to more than 21 million people.

But unlike other cities of its size, it doesn’t feel hectic, as there’s greenery everywhere.

In fact, Chengdu is currently building a 10,000-mile cycle network to connect its green spaces.

Several sections are already open, like the 62-mile Tianfu Greenway, which wraps around the city centre.

I borrow a dockless bike for 30p per hour to explore a stretch in the south, and as I cycle past fields and a lake dotted with egrets, I spot the New Century Global Center – the world’s largest building.

Day trips in the mountains are easy, too. I head for Mount Qingcheng, which is just half an hour on the fast train, with fares from £2 return.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the sacred mountains of Taoism, a philosophical religion that predates Buddhism in China, and it’s split into two visitor areas.

The front mountain is easier to get to, with paved paths leading up to several incense-filled temples where monks still live. Entry costs £9.

But I prefer the quieter back mountain – it’s wilder and more scenic, with several small waterfalls, and entry is £7 cheaper!

Both offer several hours of serious hiking, so booking a stay at a hot spring hotel to soak tired muscles is a smart move, and the Howard Johnson Conference Resort Chengdu is only a short walk from the train station.

Double rooms cost from £52 B&B (Howardjohnsonchengdu.cn).

Spice up your life

Grub’s up with Sichuan chicken Credit: Getty Images
Explore lively Jiuyanqiao at night Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

Chengdu is also known for its food. It’s one of UNESCO’s Cities of Gastronomy, and those addictively hot and numbing Sichuan dishes you find in Chinese restaurants around the world are all from here.

Pick a place where there’s a queue and you can’t go wrong, but I always make time for a hot pot, where you order a selection of meats and veggies to cook yourself in a pot of bubbling broth.

I’ve done everything from big buffets to solo dinners in cubby holes, but my go-to is HaiDiLao.

This chain is pricier – meals cost about £15 per person – but there are branches everywhere, and they put on live TikTok-style dance performances while you eat.

At bigger outposts, like the one on Chunxi Road, you can even get a free manicure during your meal (Haidilao.com).

For classic street food, I hit Zhong Shui Jiao (Zhong’s Dumplings) in People’s Park for its namesake garlicky pork dumplings, £1.50, the plain Long’s wontons, £1.40, and spicy dan dan noodles, £1.

Next door, the century-old He Ming Tea House is great for people-watching.

Green tea starts from £1.60, and you can stay all day and bring your own snacks.

All Night Long

From Chengdu, you’re just four hours from Jiuzhai Valley National Park with its emerald pools and pearl-like waterfalls – photos really don’t do it justice Credit: Getty Images
Or, just over three hours on the fast train is Xi’an, a former capital of China and home of the iconic Terracotta Army Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto

One of my favourite things about Chengdu is that there’s so much to do after dark.

Most locals go for post-dinner strolls or take speakers to public squares to dance to C-pop.

Midnight snacks are routine, and there are even 24-hour spas, like FuFu Tang near Renmin North Road station.

Spa entry costs from £30 per person. It’s also an unbeatable time for shopping.

Most malls are open until 11pm and some, like the subterranean SKP Chengdu, even have huge light installations that are attractions in their own right (Skp-beijing.com).

Unlike the UK, there isn’t a big drinking culture. Beers tend to be a watery 2.5% ABV and tea houses easily outnumber bars.

The one main strip, Jiuyanqiao, has around 100 competing bars clustered along the Jinjiang River, each one trying to outdo the next with its club beats. But even here is pretty sedate.

By my 11pm bedtime, the music has already been turned down, although I can still spot the lasers and strobe lights from my hotel across the river – the luxe but surprisingly affordable Shangri-La.

That said, it only takes a wedding or banquet for locals to break out the baijiu, China’s grain-based national spirit.

And in Chengdu, you can try it at Shui Jing Fang’s distillery museum, where the £5 entry fee includes a tour plus a guided tasting of three throat-burning spirits, each delivering a fiery 52% ABV, meant to be sipped neat.

It’s fascinating to see distilling as it was done 600 years ago (Shuijingfang.com).

That’s the most incredible thing about this city: futuristic skyscrapers and boundary-pushing architecture surround you wherever you look, but you only need to turn a corner to spot fascinating cultural relics dating back centuries.

Two thousand years ago, people called Chengdu the land of abundance – it’s as true then as it is now.

FYI

Double rooms at Shangri-La Hotel Chengdu start from £86 a night (Shangri-la.com).

Fly direct with Air China from £393 return (Airchina.co.uk).

Twinning is winning

From Chengdu, you’re just four hours from Jiuzhai Valley National Park with its emerald pools and pearl-like waterfalls – photos really don’t do it justice.

Or, just over three hours on the fast train is Xi’an, a former capital of China and home of the iconic Terracotta Army.

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