tasty

“DOES the hunchback of Notre-Dame still live here?” my eight-year-old daughter Molly asks, as we look up at the gleaming white towers of Paris’ recently restored Notre-Dame cathedral.

Although we don’t find any secret medieval residents inside, we do adore gazing at the gold stars dotted across the sky-blue ceilings of the side chapels, and the stunning stained-glass windows that cast rainbows of light across the floor.

The five-year restoration project – after Notre-Dame burned down in 2019 – cost more than £600million and involved around 2,000 craftspeople, with 1,200 oak trees sourced from French forests – and the results are miraculous.

Entry is free, but save queuing time by booking ahead (Notredamedeparis.fr).

Stairway to heaven

We’re staying at NoPi Chic, a gorgeous Airbnb just off the main drag in Pigalle and down the road from the Moulin Rouge.

The two-bedroom apartment has high ceilings and a treasure trove of objets d’art. The kids’ room comes with the cutest bunks, and we love climbing the classic Parisian spiral staircase to our front door.

CROWN JULES

I tried the European river cruise where your wine glass never goes empty

BEACH PLEASE

Spanish TUI hotel to reopen next summer for adults only and it’s on the beach

Each morning, I sit on the balcony with an espresso watching locals on their baguette runs, while Sundays are market day on nearby Rue des Martyrs, where tables are laden with cheese, wine and paintings.

Just five minutes’ walk away is Bouillon Pigalle, a modern French bistro, where Molly and her older brother Elliot, 11, marvel at the black-and-white uniformed waiters buzzing about.

We order a litre of citronnade, £8.85, which the kids speedily drain, before digging into oeufs mayonnaises, £2.20, as a starter, and demolishing steak frites, £10.90.

Our puddings – crème brulée, £3.30, and chocolate mousse, £3.25 – are also a triumph (Bouillonlesite.com).

Vuitton & Views

The next day, we head to the incredible Fondation Louis Vuitton in north-west Paris, designed by architect Frank Gehry using thousands of custom-carved glass panes, making the building resemble a boat.

Kids can borrow iPads that guide them through the gallery’s modern and contemporary art exhibits.

From the top terraces, we soak up the view over the city and the Eiffel Tower, before heading next door to Le Jardin d’Acclimatation, included in the entry fee, to explore its landscaped gardens and amusement park, complete with fairground rides, mini golf and a house of mirrors.

A family ticket costs £27 (Fondationlouisvuitton.fr).

Another gem we all adore is Passage Jouffroy, one of a series of 19th-century covered arcades.

The kids love roaming around Pain d’Epices, a magical toy shop (Paindepices.fr), while the original, stunning site of the oldest chocolatier in Paris, À La Mère de Famille, which opened in 1761, sits close by on Rue du Faubourg Montmartre.

The chocolates here really are miniature masterpieces (Lameredefamille.com).

That evening, we check out Bouillon Julien, half an hour’s walk away from our apartment.

The jaw-dropping art nouveau paintings and glasswork must make this bistro one of the capital’s most beautiful.

The food is excellent, too.

We order the avocado and prawn cocktail, £4.35, then yet another steak and chips with an amazing house butter, £11.25, washed down with a carafe of merlot, £6.90 (Bouillon-julien.com).

Santé to being well-fed and well-cultured!

LOVE a holiday but hate a long flight? Bilbao should be your go-to destination. 

It’s the closest major Spanish city to the UK — flights take just an hour and 45 minutes — but is now even easier to visit thanks to Tui’s new city break packages. 

These include flights from Gatwick, Heathrow, Manchester and Bristol. 

Tui Commercial Director Chris Logan said: “Bilbao offers a truly special city break. With incredible art, fantastic food and beautiful scenery all in one trip, it’s ideal for customers who want the authentic taste of Spain.” 

After a sunshine stay in the city this month, Kara Godfrey reveals everything you need to know about it . . .  

WHY SHOULD I GO? Spain is set to hit record tourism numbers this year, expecting to reach 100million for the first time. So trying to find a quieter destination to visit can be tricky.  

HAVANA OH NA NA

‘Cuba of Europe’ which you can fly to for £30 is 25C this week

IND-CREDIBLE

I visited bucket list destination with vibrant markets and street food

But Bilbao gets just a fraction of the tourists — just 1.6 million visited last year compared to Barcelona’s 16 million. The city is also celebrating the 20th anniversary of its Bilbao BBK Live music festival.

This year’s event, from July 9 to 11, has headliners including Calvin Harris, Lily Allen and FKA Twigs.

ARE THESE STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? Most of the city’s top attractions can be walked between, taking no more than 30 minutes.  

There are extensive bus, tram and metro systems if you need to rest your feet. But with the beautiful estuary running through the city, you’d be mad not to want to explore by foot. Want to grab a taxi? Opt for the Spanish Cabify rather than Uber, as it is normally more affordable. 

ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKETLIST? The impact of the Guggenheim Bilbao museum since it opened in 1997 has been huge. So powerful, in fact, it created the phrase “the Guggenheim effect”, which is when a huge architectural project transforms a destination.  

Tickets to the museum come with a free audio guide (from £13, see guggenheim-bilbao.eus) which helps to understand the modern art pieces ranging from sculptures to paintings. 

One of the most popular — and my favourite — is installation The Matter Of Time, where mighty steel walls guide you throughout the space. 

Other current exhibits include work by Ruth Asawa, a Japanese-American artist known for her unique wire sculptures.  

Also on display at the museum are the 43ft floral sculpture Puppy, by Jeff Koons, and 30ft spider creation Maman. by Louise Bourgeois.

Afterwards, make sure to take a ride on the bright-red Artxanda funicular, which takes you to the top of Mount Artxanda for the best views of Bilbao. Tickets cost from £3,. Check out funicularartxanda.bilbao.eus.

WHERE SHOULD I EAT? Knowing where to start with Spanish tapas — known as pintxos in northern Spain — can be hard. 

But help is at hand. Tui Musement offers locally guided food tours to take you to gastronomic highlights off the beaten track. 

We gorged on everything from Spanish omelette to spicy mushrooms, while learning a bit about the history of them courtesy of our guide Cristina. 

Guided tours aside, if you just fancy hopping between tapas bars for snacks and drinks — a practice locals call txikiteo (pronounced chee-kee-tey-oh) — do try all of them at Plaza Nueva. 

My number one was Cafe Bar Bilbao for its tasty pork sliders, as well as Taberna Ona for freshly sliced Iberian ham. 

Just expect to have people waiting in the wings for your table — seats are much sought after. 

I FANCY A DRINK: The most famous Bilbao drink is txakoli, a Basque white wine which you can find pretty much anywhere. Squeeze into the family-run Taberna Basaras, a tiny bar with barrels for tables and bottles from floor to ceiling, for a hearty glass. 

You might also spot the locals ordering a mariano, a vermouth “daytime” cocktail that’s lighter than a negroni. 

But only order if you’re ready for an early night — it certainly packs a punch. 

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? For some of the best views, try 5H hotel The Artist where a rooftop bar overlooks the Guggenheim. 

Another stylish option is the adult-only Axel Hotel, which lays claim to having one of the city’s only rooftop swimming pools. The covered Skybar right next to it is a great place to dry off, over a cocktail or two. 

Even the basic rooms have views of the estuary and Old Town, each one snug but chic — think industrial interiors with extremely comfy beds. 

Also save some time for the wellness area, too, where you can book a massage or just relax in the sauna and hot tub.