taste

In all human endeavours undertaken within Britiain’s isles, the provision of tea and cake is the most vital consideration. When a walker or cyclist delivers the damning judgment “there’s no decent caff” to a group of friends, the ghastly silence is followed by everyone crossing the accursed region off their map. The sheer importance of this staple dietary ingredient is obvious from our island geography: Dundee, Eccles, Bakewell, Chelsea …

So it was with some trepidation that I set out to walk around the Llŷn peninsula in Gwynedd, Wales, on part of what is called the Seafood Trail. I mean, I love a lobster, but what about the fruit scones? Bangor University’s school of ocean sciences has produced a map of seafood producers and outlets to encourage hikers as they stride along the coastal path. Fine, but it’s the late afternoon sugar lull that I worry about.

We start on the north coast in Nefyn, a place that boasts an excellent brewery and a good beach with one of the most Instagrammed pubs in Wales, the Tŷ Coch Inn. Me and my friend Andy are both nervously scanning the weather apps as the forecast is stormy. The plan is to walk and camp, but only after a gentle start in the Nanhoron Arms hotel. This proves doubly beneficial as the dinner includes a delicious Anglesey sea bass and, next morning, we can stay dry while watching a barrage of lashing rain come down. We have each brought a tent, but neither item has been tested at this level of downpour.

I am already a convert to the Welsh Coast Path, one of the finest walks in the world, but I have never done this particular section. Immediately, we are off to a great start: the rain stops and we cross Nefyn golf ccourse and settle into a rhythm of cliff and cove. In one sheltered spot, a few Atlantic grey seals play in the shallows while the older ones snooze on the beach. A kestrel hovers overhead and butterflies skip around a few late flowers. In May this would be a floral bonanza, but now we have blackberries to keep us going.

Then, with lunchtime approaching, we start scanning ahead and almost immediately we see Cwt Tatws. The translation is roughly the Potato Shed but the name belies the true magnificence of this cafe, all the more splendid for its ideal location close to a beautiful stretch of sandy beach in Towyn. A rich selection of sandwiches, salads, pies and, of course, cakes, is augmented by cosy seating, a vintage clothing section and a range of Welsh products. Neither of us, unfortunately, has space in our rucksacks for a sack of sea salt or a bottle of Welsh whisky. However, we do manage an extra slice of coffee and walnut sponge before heading off.

After 3 miles (5km), we drop down on to a sandy beach at low tide and weave through a set of sentinel rocks. This long lovely stretch, Traeth Penllech, is a real gem, leading us up to the first campsite at Moel-y-Berth. Run by Mike and Joanna Smith, this is the kind of place people return to every year. There is a shop and a handy cafe for breakfast where, the next morning, we sit and watch another rampaging storm come blasting through. When we emerge, however, the sun is out again.

Our luck holds all day, but by midafternoon a crisis is looming. Without tea and cake, I reckon, I’ve only got a few miles left in my legs. But then at Porthor’s Whistling Sands beach, Caffi Porthor pops up, another gem, serving a vast range of delicious homemade cakes, including a Welsh stalwart, Bara brith. If you’re not familiar with this heavenly manna, it’s a fruit cake made with tea and spices. And Caffi Porthor makes the best I’ve ever tasted. Andy, foolishly, turns it down and the result, three miles later, is that he runs out of steam, taking a short cut across the headland to Dwyros, our second campsite. Meanwhile, powered by tea and cake, I stride on for a further seven miles around what is the best section so far: the actual tip of the Llŷn peninsula. The spectacular cliffs offer a fine view of the tidal race between the headland and Bardsey Island. On a day like this one, when the wind is gusting powerfully and the current is running at about four metres per second, it’s a fearsome sight.

Aberdaron, just around the corner, is a lovely village with an excellent fish and chip shop, Sblash, and a fine pub, The Ship, a good spot to try out a few words of Welsh as that’s the main language here, as on most of the Llyn.

Unfortunately, the following morning my own language skills fail. When I ask some teenage boys for the path to Rhiw, the next village, I’m met with sniggers. Apparently I’m asking for sex.

The seafood, however, has really kicked in now. At Rhiw I meet Brett and Nia who harvest crab and lobster for their Top Cat Caffi where we eat a lobster salad lunch. However, the weather is deteriorating fast so we can’t get out to help with the day’s catch, something Brett encourages visitors to do. That evening, camped at Rhydolion farm, we stagger an extra mile to the pretty inland village of Llanengan and eat bowls of delicious mussels at the Sun Inn.

The final day is a bracing stomp across surfers’ beach, Hell’s Mouth, a notorious shipwreck spot in the past, then around Mynydd Cilan headland to Abersoch where there’s plenty of cafes to hide from the storm. The seafood has been great, but it’s the memories of tea and cakes that I will treasure.

The trip was provided by Natural Resources Wales

Lauren Perlmutter is a “Gilmore Girls” superfan. She’s watched the show on a loop for the past 10 years. It’s mostly been in chronological order, and sometimes just in the background while she’s working on something else but craving the show’s comforting familiarity.

“It’s like my bowl of chicken noodle soup,” she said.

Perlmutter, 23, like many fans of the beloved series, was born after it first debuted Oct. 5, 2000 on the WB. Her mom, Joelle, had caught “Gilmore Girls” every now and then when it was airing, and she introduced it to her daughter years later, watching it more intently with her new viewing partner.

The series, which starred Lauren Graham as Lorelai Gilmore, a young single mom, and Alexis Bledel as her teen daughter Rory, is beloved for its witty writing and the small-town charm of its fictional setting, Stars Hollow, Conn.

Fans walk through a recreated gazebo like the one in the fictional town of Stars Hollow. “Gilmore Girls” is set in Connecticut, but much of the filming took place on a backlot at Warner Bros. Studios in Burbank.

(Etienne Laurent/For The Times)

Like the Gilmores, the Perlmutters established a Friday night tradition, except instead of a tense (mandatory) dinner with three generations, the pair would churn through episodes of the show and enjoy spending quality time together.

Lauren said she saw herself in the bookish Rory.

“I was so academically oriented. I strived really hard, and I was valedictorian at UCLA, and [my mom] was there in the audience and we made the same faces they did during Rory’s graduation, and I had a speech very similar to Rory’s,” she said. “Being able to have this background story of two women being raised, and then translated over into my life with my mom was just so special.”

Although their busy schedules make it hard to maintain their tradition weekly — Lauren is in graduate school at Pepperdine training to be a therapist (although she once considered pursuing journalism like Rory) — the Perlmutters still get an occasional Friday night viewing party in.

In celebration of the show’s 25th anniversary, Warner Bros. Television Group hosted an immersive pop-up event at the Grove that promised to give fans “a weekend in Stars Hollow” with set recreations and fall decor abound. The Perlmutters were first in line on Saturday morning, even with their drive from the San Fernando Valley.

Despite a prominently displayed “no cell phones” sign like the one from Luke’s Diner, fans couldn’t help but take selfies and videos of the set recreations. The Stars Hollow gazebo, the famous town sign, a replica of Lorelai’s beloved Jeep Wrangler and a display of 1,000 daisies from a romantic proposal scene in the first season were popular photo spots, and visitors cycled through Luke’s to grab coffee and donuts. And plenty of themed merchandise — ranging from the typical stickers, hats and mugs to ultra-specific items like bath salts with branding from Lorelai’s inn — was available for purchase.

While the fanbase is largely made up of women, some men enjoy the show as well. As one husband and father who attended the event with his more enthusiastic wife and daughters put it, “every man had a crush on Lorelai.”

Several hundreds of fans cycled through the Grove to celebrate the show’s anniversary.

(Etienne Laurent/For The Times)

“Gilmore Girls” also starred Melissa McCarthy as Sookie St. James, Lorelai’s longtime friend and chef at the inn she runs; Scott Patterson as the curmudgeonly but lovable eponymous diner owner Luke Danes; Kelly Bishop and Edward Herrmann as Emily and Richard Gilmore, Lorelai’s (very traditional) parents; and Keiko Agena as Lane Kim, Rory’s rock music-loving best friend. It was created by Amy Sherman-Palladino, who went on to make the hit series “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel,” and several other major projects.

During its original run from 2000 to 2007, the series was popular among viewers but not so much among critics. The show was nominated for only a single Emmy in its seven year run — one for makeup, which it won.

Serri Ferrante and Winona Parks, longtime friends who both work in television, said they suspect the lack of critical acclaim the series got could be attributed to the small size of the WB network, where it aired, and the likelihood that its budget for awards campaigns was small.

“I always voted for it,” Ferrante said, “but it was like a throwaway vote.”

Still, as the scores of young fans at Saturday’s celebration at the Grove prove, “Gilmore Girls” found a bountiful second life through streaming services.

Brittania Chacon, a 22-year-old from Mid-City, said she discovered the series when it kept popping up on her TikTok feed a year ago. It was autumn, which she says is the perfect time to watch — and many fans agree. (The show gets a seasonal boost in streaming ratings every year, according to Nielsen.)

The young crop of fans makes Ferrante “feel old,” she said, “but then it makes me feel connected to another generation.”

While most fans said they return to the show repeatedly either because of its relatable plotlines, sharp writing or the friendly comfort of their favorite characters, for some, it also acts as a primer for difficult conversations between mothers and daughters.

“It helped me talk to her about things that are not easy to talk about — dating, relationships, growing up,” Susie Park of Glendale said. Her 13-year-old daughter Ella, who started and finished the show over the course of the summer, confidently established herself as a member of “Team Jess,” referencing fans’ different camps of support for Rory’s boyfriends throughout the show.

“I think it’s amazing that it’s intergenerational and that I can actually show my daughter and that it resonates with her. She’s at an age where she’s supposed to be taking sex education classes and it wasn’t very helpful, but this was a lot more helpful,” Susie said as Ella burst out laughing.

Emily Gilmore (Kelly Bishop), left, Lorelai Gilmore (Lauren Graham), Rory Gilmore (Alexis Bledel) and Richard Gilmore (Edward Herrmann) in a scene from “Gilmore Girls.”

(Mitchell Haddad / The WB)

Regardless of which team fans are on regarding Rory’s boyfriends or which of the memorable recurring characters is their favorite, most can agree that they want to see more of the Gilmores and Stars Hollow.

In 2016, many original cast members and creatives reunited to make a revival miniseries, “Gilmore Girls: A Year in the Life.” The Netflix series had four episodes representing the four seasons to continue the Gilmore family’s story several years later. While it was hotly anticipated, it was not particularly well received by critics and fans alike because some felt the characters seemed to stray from their core attributes and values that made them so loveable.

So more than two decades after the start of the story, many fans are clamoring for another slice of Stars Hollow life. Graham, who reunited with Bledel onstage at the Emmy Awards last month, said on the red carpet that she’d like the idea of a “Gilmore Girls” Christmas movie.

Regardless of whether the story continues in some shape or form, “Gilmore Girls” is regarded as one of the best series of all time and Lorelai and Rory will continue to fuel conversations between mothers and daughters for generations to come.

Eleni Zumot, who attended Saturday’s event with her sister, her mother and her 9-month-old daughter Amelia (sporting a pink Luke’s Diner t-shirt), said she hopes to re-watch the show with her daughter when the time is right.

“I think she’ll love it.”

When the thought of truly delicious pancakes bubbles up, various trips and experiences flood my mind and activate my hunger receptors.

I’m transported back aboard the Amtrak booze train heading to San Diego for a Chargers game, where I have to make time for Richard Walker’s Pancake House. Their famed, often still sizzling and flaky, gigantic baked apple pancake is the embodiment of flapjack largesse.

There’s the homespun goodness of a sweet cream pancake volcano at the Black Bear Diner, a common haunt when I visit family in the Inland Empire. And can you visit The Grove for breakfast without trying Du-Par’s heavenly and buttery pancakes?

Pancakes own a special place in many of our hearts, partly because they are comforting, filling and customizable.

Food writer Khushbu Shah created a list of 11 pancake spots throughout Los Angeles that includes classics and some new spots.

We’ll dip into that grouping and pull out some favorites where new memories can be created.

Breakfast by Salt’s Cure (Santa Monica)

The oatmeal griddle cakes from Breakfast by Salt’s Cure.

(Andrea D’Agosto)

I almost hesitate to call these pancakes, and in fact, the official name on the menu is “Oatmeal Griddle Cakes.”

Made from a base of oat flour and cinnamon sugar, these thin-yet-hearty griddle cakes taste like a deeply gooey, slightly underbaked oatmeal cookie. There is absolutely no maple syrup or syrup of any kind available, but you won’t need any if you are careful to get the scoops of cinnamon molasses butter into every nook and cranny.

Café Telegrama (Hollywood)

(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Times)

What sets the pancakes at Café Telegrama apart from the rest of the pancakes in Los Angeles are their iconic crispy edges.

Perfectly caramelized, they are the result of cooking the pancakes for at least seven minutes in a generous pool of nutty brown butter. The edges are in sharp contrast to the rest of the pancake, which is quite tender thanks to the ricotta in the batter.

They arrive stacked two to a plate, swimming in maple syrup, and topped with a generous amount of house-made blueberry compote.

The Griddle Cafe (Hollywood Hills West)

Bigger isn’t always better, but it’s impossible not to be delighted by the truly massive, dinner plate-sized pancakes that show up either two or three to a stack at this legendary Sunset Boulevard breakfast spot.

While the classic buttermilk pancakes are solid, this is not the place to hold back — you might as well really go for it with one of the diner’s over-the-top novelty options.

The best?

Either the Golden Ticket, pancakes stuffed with brown sugar-baked bananas, caramel, walnuts and streusel; or the Black Magic, a stack of pancakes brimming with crispy yet soft crushed Oreo cookies and a mountain of whipped cream. Just be ready to nap afterward.

Yang’s Kitchen (Alhambra)

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

It’s worth braving the weekend brunch lines at this beloved Alhambra institution for the giant cornmeal pancakes.

The team at Yang’s whips together cornmeal from Grist & Toll with mochiko rice flour from Koda Farms to create a pancake that is gently chewy with deep savory notes from the cornmeal.

There is no maple syrup: Instead, they come topped with fresh whipped cream, seasonal fruit and condensed milk for drizzling. They might not be traditional by any means, but it’s always worth ordering a stack for the table.

For more, check out the full story.

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My 8-year-old daughter hates sand in her shoes, but loves to play in the sand. She doesn’t like very loud environments, but enjoys thrill rides at amusement parks. She gets uncomfortable when the playground is too full, but loves to make friends. She wants to explore new places, but often needs to take breaks. And she needs to feel safe expressing and processing her emotions — whether that means crying or crying out — without being stared at or feeling judged.

As you can see, my daughter has particular sensory needs that some may call a “sensory diet.” When she was 3, I realized she is a Highly Sensitive Child. HSC is not a diagnosis or a disorder— rather, it’s a personality trait defined by psychologist Elaine Aron in her 1996 book “The Highly Sensitive Person.” Most people think “sensitive” means emotional, but that’s not the case here. “Sensitive” refers to our senses. In their book “Raising a Sensory Smart Child,” Lindsey Biel and Nancy Peske explain that when it comes to our understanding of sensory experiences, there are seven: the five we’re all familiar with — taste, touch, smell, sight and hearing — along with proprioception (knowing how one’s body moves) and vestibular (how one feels their body in space).

HSCs and neurodivergent kids with autism spectrum disorder, sensory processing disorder, ADHD or other neurodivergent conditions have something in common: differing sensory needs.

An occupational therapist can prescribe a sensory diet as treatment for kids who need help calming down or being alert — in other words, to help them self-regulate. Finding or creating the right atmosphere also takes some trial and error from parents and caregivers.

I, too, am Highly Sensitive and have been mining L.A. County for play environments that are well suited for my daughter and perhaps other kids with similar sensory needs. I’ve learned the hard way that the usual loud, crowded bouncy house birthday party isn’t fun for everyone, and that’s OK. Luckily, Los Angeles has plenty of play spaces that are intentional about being inclusive to all kids.

In my experience, the best play places include a quiet room or an area for kids and their parents to be alone or separate if they need an escape. Some provide sensory bags from KultureCity, a nonprofit focused on sensory inclusion. These bags include noise-cancelling headphones, fidget toys and a nose plug to help the experience. Many places offer a social narrative or story online — with pictures of what happens and where they will be — so kids know what to expect. Some have specific “sensory hours” when the lights are dimmed and the number of guests is limited. All of these inclusive spots invite kids to use their senses — to touch, feel, see, hear, sense, taste, smell or move.

Here are 10 great play places around L.A. for highly sensitive and neurodivergent kids. For each place, I’ve noted whether it’s suited well for neurodivergent kids or highly sensitive kids, or both.

Of course, the best play space isn’t some magical destination, and you don’t need a ticket for it. It’s a space where kids don’t feel judged because of their actions or reactions. It’s a space that gives them the comfort of being accepted, no matter what. You can provide your child with that space wherever you go.

I moved to Stockholm from London for work a decade ago. As a newcomer with a passion for nature, I remember being eager to soak up the region’s archipelago of 30,000 islands and rocky outposts. But I was overwhelmed by complex public ferry timetables to dozens of places ending in the letter “ö” (the Swedish word for island) and uninterested in pricey cruise boats packed with tour groups.

Then a former flatmate recommended Nynäshamn, which is on the mainland but embodies much of the nature and spirit of Stockholm’s archipelago. It’s home to a tasteful waterfront of colourfully painted bars and restaurants and a harbour packed with boats every summer, from simple dinghies to luxury yachts. Beyond, you can look across a clean, calm stretch of Baltic Sea, towards the island of Bedarön, flanked by pine trees and a smattering of dark red detached houses.