state parks

I’ve been intrigued by the Northern California area of Humboldt County ever since the fourth grade. That’s when my teacher told us the story of the Gold Rush town of Eureka: In the 1850s, when prospectors struck gold, they would yell “Eureka!” which is Greek for “I have found it!” What a funny word, I thought.

My curiosity about the area later grew when I learned about its logging renaissance — vast swaths of old-growth redwood forests were felled to make ships and build railroads, both of which were needed to transport this valuable commodity to the rest of the country and beyond. It wasn’t until 1918 with the formation of the Save the Redwoods League that preservation efforts began to try to halt the rapid depletion of the old-growth forests, which, by that point, had dwindled down to between 5% to 10%. From those efforts, Humboldt Redwoods State Park was established in 1921, followed by the formation of Redwoods National Park in 1968. Today the four parks that make up Redwood National and State Parks cover about 139,000 acres of land and protect nearly half of the world’s remaining old-growth redwood forests.

And it was the lure of walking beneath these giants that I, decades past that fourth-grade history lesson, finally decided to make my pilgrimage.

It took this long because, dear reader, Redwood National and State Parks are not easy to get to from L.A.

By car, without accounting for traffic and breaks, it would be at least a 12-hour journey along the 101, through San Francisco, past wine country and bypassing Mendocino before you reach Humboldt County, where the southern end of the parks begin. Realistically, it would take a few days and a couple of overnight stays along the way to get there, which is fine if you’re in it for the road trip; but if you’re like me and only have the weekend, this leaves one option: flying into California Redwood Coast-Humboldt County Airport, a.k.a. Arcata-Eureka Airport (ACV), the only airport that services the area. United has direct flights there from LAX. But Burbank Airport has Breeze Airways offering direct flights three times a week with prices as low as $80 roundtrip.

When I landed at Arcata-Eureka Airport, it felt smaller than some municipal airfields — and just as quiet. That calm set the tone for the rest of the weekend. I walked in peaceful serenity between trees so tall and ancient they recalibrated my sense of time. I discovered that life in Humboldt County, and neighboring Del Norte County near the Oregon border, moves at that same unhurried pace. The fog retreats slowly in the morning. Night arrives gently, carried in on the mist.

And I learned that Humboldt County — including the cities of Eureka, Arcata and Ferdale — is full of treasures beyond its abundance of the Earth’s tallest trees. Whether I was eating a greasy cheeseburger at a family-run diner that becomes the social center of town after 9 p.m. or slurping oysters at a bar that harvested them from its own farm just offshore, it became clear that this place is shaped by discovery, exploitation and preservation. What follows are hikes, sights and bites that should get you started for a weekend full of your own “Eureka!” moments.

Sometimes, beauty is a burden.

Such is the case with Burney Falls, a Northern California waterfall whose loveliness became such a siren song to costume-wearing Instagram mermaids, selfie-taking TikTok tour guides and off-the-beaten-track road trippers that crowds grew and grew, until the natural wonder just couldn’t handle it any more.

Crowds in recent years have damaged trails, trampled plants and clogged rural roads.

Now, as part of a pilot program to reduce overcrowding, the California Department of Parks and Recreation will require advance reservations to visit the Shasta County waterfall on many days this summer.

“Burney Falls is a crown jewel of the California State Park System, and we want all visitors to have an enjoyable and memorable experience when visiting this one-of-a-kind destination,” State Parks Director Armando Quintero said in a statement. “By allowing visitors to make a reservation in advance, we can help keep crowds manageable and not push the park’s resources past the breaking point.”

The reservations, which can be purchased online, will be required to visit the falls Fridays through Sundays and on holidays during peak visitation season, from May 15 through Sept. 27.

On those days, McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park will offer 103 parking passes for 8 a.m. to noon, an additional 103 passes for 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., and 35 passes for the entire day.

The day use passes will cost $11 per vehicle, according to State Parks, with discounts for seniors and people with disabilities.

California State Parks annual pass holders will pay no additional charge but must make reservations. Visitors with overnight campground or cabin reservations will not need additional passes for day use.

The 129-foot waterfall — a wide curtain of white water cascading from a basalt cliff face — generates its own rainbow and once was dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World” by President Theodore Roosevelt.

Visitors often endure long lines to get a selfie at Burney Falls. Here, Rachel Brussbau poses with her 1-year-old daughter, Sage, and Crysten Michol in July 2023.

(Paul Kuroda / For The Times)

But for much of its history, it “experienced limited visitation due to its rural location … and lack of publicity,” the State Parks department said in a statement.

“For generations of visitors, it had the reputation of a small, family-oriented park and one of California’s best-kept secrets,” the department said. “However, over the past decade, and especially with the growth of social media, that secret is now world-famous.”

Crowds swelled during the COVID-19 pandemic, when indoor public spaces closed.

A State Parks spokesperson told The Times in an email Monday that in 2015, Burney Falls had 121,495 visitors. Numbers “have steadily risen since that time, peaking at 322,192 visitors in 2020 during the pandemic,” the spokesperson said.

Since then, about 220,000 people have visited the park each year.

The spokesperson said the numbers account only for people who come in through the official entrance and not those who park illegally on the side of the road and enter off-trail.

Because so many people have veered off established trails, the park in recent years has experienced increased erosion and damage to sensitive vegetation and sacred tribal land, according to the State Parks department. Heavy traffic and illegal parking also have created unsafe conditions along State Highway 89, one of the heavily forested county’s main thoroughfares and a critical fire evacuation route.

“Campers with reservations are hesitant to leave the park, knowing that it may take up to two hours to re-enter on busy days,” the department statement read.

Because of limited parking, the gates often close for several hours each day.

“If lucky enough to gain entry, visitors inside the park are met with extreme overcrowding, long restroom lines, and overflowing trash cans instead of a peaceful, rejuvenating experience at one of the nation’s most awe-inspiring natural landmarks,” State Parks said.

In the summer of 2024, State Parks closed all access to the waterfall for the season to repair trails and slopes damaged by heavy crowds and storm erosion.

The department said it will evaluate the day use reservation system at the end of the summer and make adjustments if necessary for future peak visitation periods.

State Sen. Megan Dahle (R-Bieber), whose district includes Shasta County, said the pilot program “is likely to disrupt some trips” until word spreads.

“Unfortunately, for several years it has been clear something needs to change at Burney Falls,” Dahle said. “I hope this is an interim measure on the way to longer-term fixes to accommodate visitors.”