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An affordable slice of L.A. paradise might never recover from the Palisades fire

As local and state leaders celebrate the fastest wildfire debris removal in modern American history, the Pacific Palisades Bowl Mobile Home Estates — a rent-controlled, 170-unit enclave off Pacific Coast Highway — remains largely untouched since it burned down in January.

Weeds grow through cracks in the broken pavement. A community pool is filled with a murky, green liquid. There’s row after row of mangled, rusting metal remains of former homes.

Yet just across a nearly 1,500-foot-long shared property line, the Tahitian Terrace mobile home park — like thousands of fire-destroyed properties cleared by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers over the last nine months — is now a field of cleaned, empty lots.

The difference in treatment is based on standards used by the Federal Emergency Management Agency, which directed the corps’ cleanup efforts. FEMA, which focused on providing assistance to local residents — and not properties owned by real estate companies — argued in letters to state officials that since it could rely on the Tahitian’s owners to rebuild the heart of Pacific Palisades’ affordable housing, it would make an exception and include the property. However, it said it could not trust the owners of the Palisades Bowl to do the same.

The Pacific Palisades Bowl Mobile Home Estates, right, and the Tahitian Terrace mobile home park, left.

The Pacific Palisades Bowl Mobile Home Estates, right, and the Tahitian Terrace mobile home park, left, where fire debris has been removed.

(Eric Thayer/For The Times)

Both mobile home parks requested federal cleanup services, records obtained from the corps show. And both Los Angeles County and the city of Los Angeles lobbied the agency to include the properties in its mission.

In a May letter approving the corps’ cleanup of the Tahitian, FEMA noted that the property, riddled with asbestos and perched above the busy Pacific Coast Highway, was a public health hazard and that the owners, with limited insurance money, probably would struggle to pay for the cleanup. FEMA Regional Administrator Robert Fenton also wrote to the state Office of Emergency Services, saying that he was “confident” including Tahitian “will accelerate the reopening of the park for its displaced tenants and ensure the community retains this affordable residential enclave in an otherwise affluent area.”

When it came to the Bowl, FEMA took a different tone. The agency said in a July letter to the state agency that with flatter terrain, the Bowl did not pose the same health hazard as the Tahitian Terrace did, and with $1.2 million in insurance money already disbursed to the property owners, it had “no indication the owner lacks the financial means to remove the debris independently.”

FEMA’s letter also noted that unlike with the Tahitian property, “FEMA cannot conclude that Palisades Bowl represents a preserved or guaranteed source of long-term affordable housing,” based on the owners’ track record.

The Bowl’s former residents — artists, teachers, lifeguards, boat riggers, bookstore owners and chefs — are now scattered across Southern California and the globe. Speaking to The Times, many felt helpless, frustrated and unsure whether they’ll be able to return. Many, nine months after the fire, are running out of the insurance money and government aid they’ve relied on to pay rent for temporary housing.

“We’re the great underdogs of the greatest American disaster in history, apparently. This little community,” said Rashi Kaslow, a boat rigger who lived in the Bowl for more than 17 years. “The people of the only two trailer parks — the isolated, actual affordable housing communities … you would think that we would be the No. 1 priority.”

“You would think that we would be the number one priority.”

— Rashi Kaslow, Pacific Palisades Bowl resident

The Bowl began as a Methodist camp in the 1890s, and was developed into a mobile home park in the 1950s. For decades, the Bowl and the Tahitian remained among the only places along the California coast still under rent control, preserved by the Mello Act, and consequently, some of the only affordable housing in the Palisades.

“We’re all connected through this legacy of what we had,” said Travis Hayden, who moved into the Bowl in 2018, “and I think our greatest fear is that it goes away.”

Nine months after the fire, the Palisades Bowl's community pool is filled with a murky, green liquid.

Nine months after the fire, the Palisades Bowl’s community pool is filled with a murky, green liquid.

(Eric Thayer/For The Times)

Many longtime residents never planned to leave.

“I was going to have my bed put in the living room, with a large window wall, and lay and watch the sun set and the ocean. That was going to be the end of my life,” said Colleen Baker, an 82-year-old closet designer. “I don’t, of course, have it anymore. … It’s all gone.”

The Bowl was passed among a few families and local real estate moguls over the decades.

In 2005, Edward Biggs of Northern California bought the Bowl. When Biggs, who rarely appeared at the park, died in 2021, his real estate empire was fractured between his first wife, Charlotte, and his second wife, Loretta, further complicating the Bowl’s management.

Since the fire, residents have heard virtually nothing from ownership. Neither Colby Biggs — Charlotte and Edward Biggs’ grandson who began co-managing the park after Charlotte’s death — nor lawyers with Loretta Biggs’ real estate company, responded to a request for comment.

What Bowl residents have seen is the corps descend on other Palisades properties — clearing burned-out cars, piles of rubble and charred trees from single-family homes as well as the Tahitian — while leaving the Bowl untouched.

At the center of FEMA’s reasoning to refuse cleanup for the Bowl: “The prior actions of the owner demonstrate a lack of commitment to reopen the park for its displaced residents.”

“The prior actions of the owner demonstrate a lack of commitment to reopen the park for its displaced residents.”

— FEMA, regarding the owners of the Pacific Palisades Bowl

Over the two decades the Biggs family has owned the Bowl, residents have become painfully familiar with this “lack of commitment.”

In 2006, some residents sued Biggs and the previous owner, accusing them of failing to repair and stabilize the bluff behind the park that, the previous year, crumbled after heavy rain, leaving some units uninhabitable.

A year later, Biggs fell into a legal dispute with city of Los Angeles over a plan to split up the property that residents characterized as a move to circumvent rent control.

It prompted Biggs’ attorney to send residents a letter in 2009, stating that the inability to raise rent and the never-ending series of lawsuits made the park unprofitable and that he may file for bankruptcy. It also claimed that Biggs already had received a $40-million offer from an international hotel developer, the Palisadian-Post reported. No sale ever went through.

In 2013, Biggs decided to build an “upscale resort community” instead, by buying up resident’s homes, demolishing them, and building two-story, manufactured homes on the properties. To do so, he planned to target the homes of the residents suing him over a landslide on the property, the California 2nd District Court of Appeal found.

The residents ended up winning $8.9 million from Biggs. The case with the city eventually made it to the California Supreme Court, which sided with residents and the city.

While residents agonize over FEMA’s decision, the experiences have led many to ultimately agree with FEMA’s reasoning: They cannot trust that the owners intend to preserve their park as affordable housing.

Former Bowl residents met atop the Asilomar bluff overlooking their old community on Oct. 3 — the day after a city-imposed deadline for the owners to remove the debris — to call on local leaders to act.

Most skipped the formality of a handshake, going in for hugs. They reminisced. Many took a moment in silence to look down. Rows of empty dirt lots to the left — the Tahitian — and rows of rubble still sitting to the right — their homes.

Residents of the Pacific Palisades Bowl Mobile Home Estates meet on a hill above the park in Pacific Palisades.

Residents of the Pacific Palisades Bowl Mobile Home Estates meet on a hill above the park in Pacific Palisades.

(Eric Thayer/For The Times)

Nine months after the fire, many former Bowl residents are trying to figure out what to do when their temporary housing insurance money and aid runs dry. They still have little certainty when — or whether — they’ll ever be able to return.

Baker, the closet designer, found a 388-square-foot mobile home in Santa Monica to live in.

“I’m in the very sad stage, and I’m realizing my losses,” she said. “You go to look for something and you go, ‘Oh yeah, that’s gone.’ That’s an everyday occurrence.”

Tahitian’s residents are stuck in a different limbo: With cleared lots, they wait for the property owners to decide whether to rebuild — adding back the concrete slabs for homes and building back the common spaces — or whether to sell the park to its residents, Chase Holiday, a Tahitian resident, said.

“We’re pretty much ready,” Holiday said. Indeed, Tahitian’s homeowners’ association has been in talks with the owners. Barring the complicated paperwork, “we could buy the park tomorrow.”

Although the wait is excruciating, “I feel pretty confident that either we’ll buy it or they’ll rebuild,” she said. But with little clarity over when that would happen, “the bigger question is, will I want to?”

On Wednesday, a handful of Bowl residents — including Jon Brown, a real estate agent who has become one of the Bowl’s leaders in the fight to rebuild — packed a board of Building and Safety commissioners meeting, pushing for the board to finally declare the property a public nuisance, which would allow the city to do the cleanup work and send the owners the bill.

The L.A. County Department of Public Works estimated that, at the end of September, about 20 properties in each burn area, Palisades and Eaton, had failed to clear debris.

In a letter mailed and posted at the Bowl, dated Sept. 2, the department had given the owners 30 days to complete the work or risk being declared a public nuisance.

At the Wednesday meeting, Danielle Mayer, an attorney whose law firm represents Loretta Biggs’ company, asked the commission for more time.

“This community has seen these park owners act with such a lack of integrity for years and years.”

— Jon Brown, Pacific Palisades Bowl resident

“This community has seen these park owners act with such a lack of integrity for years and years,” Brown said to the board. “They never do anything unless they are absolutely forced to.”

The board ultimately declared the Bowl a public nuisance.

It’s a small but significant step, with a long road still ahead. The Department of Building and Safety has yet to provide any details for how and when it will remove the debris. And the Tahitian’s still-empty lots serve as a reminder that debris removal isn’t the end of the battle.

Yet, Bowl residents remain optimistic that, someday, they will be able to buy the park from the owners and finally serve as the caretakers of the eccentric and beloved affordable community.

To residents, the Bowl was something special. They cared for one another. They surfed together, let each other’s cats in and celebrated holidays on the small community lawn. They raised their kids in the Bowl and sometimes bickered over politics and annoyances, as any proper family does.

“If the people were permitted to go back,” saidresident John Evans, “that would just restart — probably with a vengeance.”

Times staff writer Tony Briscoe contributed to this report.

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‘Thailand of Europe’ with turquoise water is slice of paradise just a few hours away

The Shala River in Albania has been dubbed the “Thailand of Europe” for its stunning turquoise waters and lush, jungle-like scenery – and it’s just a short flight from the UK

Aerial image of Shala river and its clear blue waters in Northern Albania.
The turquoise water of the Shala River could be mistaken for somewhere tropical (Image: Bardhok Ndoji via Getty Images)

Whilst millions of tourists head to Thailand annually for its legendary tropical islands, there’s a European secret that delivers a comparable adventure much nearer to home.

The Shala River has earned the title “Thailand of Europe,” offering a taste of paradise without the lengthy journey or cost of a holiday in Southeast Asia. It features stunning turquoise waters and dense, rainforest-like landscapes, creating an exotic adventure in Europe’s heartland.

Ideal for an autumn getaway, Albania enjoys delightfully mild temperatures of approximately 25C in October, with plenty of sunshine making it perfect for late-season sun-seekers.

For those drawn to Thailand’s 1,500 miles of shoreline and more than 1,400 islands scattered with limestone formations, colourful coral reefs, and magnificent beaches, Albania’s Shala River offers an extraordinary substitute, reports the Express.

Hand holding beer bottle, turquoise blue Shala river in the background, Albania.
Albania’s Shala River is closer to home – and makes a cheaper holiday(Image: Maleo Photography via Getty Images)

Reachable only by vessel, the Shala River meanders through the breathtaking Albanian Alps. With its remarkably pristine waters and jade-coloured peaks, it could be confused with one of the remote islands of Thailand.

Thrill-seekers will be delighted, as the Shala River region provides pursuits like zip-lining, snorkelling, swimming, kayaking, and trekking, all amidst striking natural splendour.

However, it’s just as perfect for those seeking to relax, with its serene environment creating the ideal setting for unwinding beside the water.

The river’s secluded, chilled-out character delivers a restful retreat without the enormous expense. The stunning beauty of this region has captured attention across social media platforms too.

TikTok user @olam281’s footage of the Shala River left countless viewers gobsmacked to discover this tropical paradise was actually in Europe rather than some exotic Indian Ocean isle.

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One amazed comment read: “I’ve been to Albania multiple times. [It’s] my favourite country of all time, and I’ve travelled quite a lot. 10/10 would recommend to everyone.” Another flabbergasted follower exclaimed: “I THOUGHT IT WAS THAILAND.”

Reaching the Shala River involves a boat trip from Lake Komani’s harbour, though the spectacular natural scenery more than justifies the journey.

This pristine location remains largely undiscovered, a world away from the packed shores of better-known holiday hotspots, making it a genuine hidden gem.

Travelling to Albania proves remarkably straightforward for British holidaymakers as well. Direct flights operate from numerous major UK airports, including Bristol, Birmingham, Luton, and Stansted.

With tickets starting from about £25 in October for flexible travellers, it offers an budget-friendly getaway for those craving sunshine without enduring lengthy flights or jet lag.

Aerial image of Shala river and its clear blue waters in Northern Albania.
(Image: Bardhok Ndoji via Getty Images)

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‘A delightful slice of unhurried life’: readers’ favourite European islands | Europe holidays

Capri without the crowds, Italy

Procida, in the Bay of Naples, is not as famous as nearby Capri and Ischia, but is all the more appealing for it. Not a tourist trap but an island where people actually live, it’s a delightful slice of unhurried Italian life. The island is small enough to be explored on foot or by bicycle, though there is a bus service too. There are many pretty little beaches for swimming, sunbathing and picnicking – our favourite was Il Postino, where scenes from the movie of the same name were filmed. As people still fish for a living, there’s no shortage of wonderfully fresh seafood in the restaurants. A local delicacy is lemon salad, made from the enormous, thick-skinned lemons unique to Procida. Villa Caterina B&B’s orchard of lemon and orange trees provides fresh juice and marmalade for breakfast, and the rooms have wonderful views of the island and the bay, with Vesuvius looming in the distance and Naples only 45 minutes away by ferry.
Bernie G

Seafood and sunshine in Sweden

The Styrsö coastline. Photograph: Maximiliane Wagner/Alamy

When life gets too much, I dream of Styrsö in the Gothenburg archipelago. Big open skies, nature trails and heaps of swimming spots make this car-free island the perfect summer escape. It’s topped off by a brilliant seafront restaurant, Tångbaren, where you can have a plateful of fresh seafood and a cold glass of wine, and watch the sea bob away.
Hannah

Tranquillity among the dunes, Germany

The dunes of East Frisia’s Spiekeroog. Photograph: Image Professionals/Alamy

I was 21, living in Germany for a year to improve my language skills, and decided on a whim to visit the tiny East Frisian island of Spiekeroog (yes, it was the fantastic name that first attracted me to the place). I spent a happy couple of nights at the Hotel Inselfriede, a small family-run hotel just a 10-minute walk from where the ferry arrives from the mainland. The island is car-free and a beautifully peaceful place to explore the dunes or simply sit with a coffee and watch the sea.
Lizzy

A Balearic beauty

Sa Dragonera viewed from La Trapa monastery on Mallorca. Photograph: Kris Hoobaer/Alamy

Sa Dragonera is a tiny but utterly beautiful uninhabited island that lies just south-west of Mallorca in the Balearics. It is brimming with history (there are 18th-century watchtowers built to observe pirate activity). Supposedly named after the lizards that inhabit it, the island is a hugely popular walking and birding spot, and is only accessible by small ferries from the nearby Sant Elm. It is best to go first thing to beat the heat and pedestrian traffic – you won’t regret it when you see the views from the top.
Tom

A tiny Greek island with great beaches

Chora, the main village on Kythira. Photograph: Napa/Alamy

Everyone knows that Greece has some of the most beautiful Mediterranean islands. But few foreign tourists have heard of Kythira and that’s just the way the locals like it. For most of the year only about 3,500 people live on the island. In summer, however, thousands of Greeks come for holidays, many back to homes that have been in their family for generations. There are no major tourist resorts – it’s a Greek island rich in history and tradition, with dozens of beautiful beaches.
Andy Moffat

Explore old world Ireland in Galway Bay

Ruins and stone walls on Inisheer. Photograph: Juan Carlos Munoz/Alamy

Inisheer (or Inis Oírr), one of the three spectacular Aran Islands in Galway Bay, is my favourite small island by far. The ferry from Rossaveel on the mainland takes just under an hour, but you feel as if you’ve been transported back in time – this is a tiny island of stone walls, fishing boats, old cottages, and more ponies and traps than cars. You can walk or cycle across the island in an afternoon to explore shipwrecks and ancient ruins. At the end of the day, enjoy some traditional music in the charming pub. You can camp almost on the beach for a good price.
Eleanor

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Peace (and sheep) in the middle of Helsinki

A sheep on Kuusiluoto. Photograph: Jani-Markus Hasa/Alamy

Kuusiluoto is a gem in the heart of Helsinki, only reachable on foot across rickety wooden duckboards that make it feel like you’re walking on water. Setting foot on the island, you’ll meet a welcoming committee of friendly sheep. The only indication you’re in a bustling European capital is the skyscrapers across the water. To get to Kuusiluoto, start from the city’s technology museum (itself well worth visiting, and just a short bus journey from the city centre) and walk a couple of miles along well-marked paths through reed beds. The island has a sauna, woodland trails, free postcards and those most valuable attributes – peace and quiet.
Arran

Snorkel in the coves of Silba, Croatia

Silba has quiet coves and is car-free. Photograph: Jure Gasparic/Alamy

I didn’t know much about Silba before I arrived – it’s a small, car-free island with no hotels, just family-run guesthouses. The catamaran from Zadar takes roughly 90 minutes, with several sailings a day during summer. Once there, you can walk on shaded paths through olive groves, find quiet pebble coves with clear water for swimming, and climb the Toreta tower at sunset for great views of the Adriatic. My tip: bring a snorkel, stay at least two nights, and make sure you book your return ferry in advance as the schedules are limited.
Elaine

Stunning vistas in Scotland’s Hebrides

Lon Liath bay on the Isle of Eigg. Photograph: Arch White/Alamy

On the community-owned Isle of Eigg, the constantly changing light is so enthralling that you don’t need to do anything else during your stay but say “Look!” and point out beautiful variations of rainbows, sunbursts or cloud formations. Stay at the Laig Beach Bothy and gaze out of the beautiful big windows at the sky, sea and mountains. As Virginia Woolf wrote: “One should not let this gigantic cinema play perpetually to an empty house.”
Anna

Winning tip: France’s wild west

Nividic lighthouse on Ouessant (Ushant). Photograph: Jekaterina Sahmanova/Alamy

The island of Ouessant (Ushant) is the most westerly point of metropolitan France. It’s a short ferry ride from the mainland, and as wild as it gets. Visit for a day as part of a longer holiday, or stay on the island for your entire trip. You can hire bikes as soon as you step off the ferry. There are beautiful beaches, such as Plage du Prat; impressive lighthouses; and bars and restaurants in the main village of Lampaul.
Airelle

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