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Battling a warming world and fierce competition, a local ski resort fights to survive

For the handful of skiers gliding across a sun-drenched ridge high in the San Gabriel Mountains, the wide expanse of the Inland Empire stretched to the Pacific Ocean nearly two vertical miles below.

Across sparkling water, the rugged spine of Catalina Island graced the horizon.

The view rivaled anything at the posh, world-renowned ski resorts of Lake Tahoe, but this was humble Mt. Baldy — the familiar local mountain that, for a few precious weeks each year, becomes a downhill skiing destination that holds its own with anything in the American West.

A sign inside Top of the Notch restaurant at Mt. Baldy reads, "Last Chair Down 4:45."

A sign inside Top of the Notch restaurant at Mt. Baldy.

Last week — after the 10,000-foot summit that looms above Los Angeles emerged from storm clouds blanketed in white — was one for the ages.

But in a rapidly warming world, and in an industry dominated by two huge and growing conglomerates that are crushing the competition, every run feels fleeting.

These days, managing a small ski business is like trying to keep a mom-and-pop general store afloat after Walmart comes to town.

By noon last Wednesday on Mt. Baldy — a little more than an hour’s drive from downtown L.A. — it was getting pretty hot, and the snow was melting fast.

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For a skier racing between towering Jeffrey pines and plummeting through soft, slushy piles of forgiving snow, the hardest part was dodging exposed rocks and random tree limbs that appeared underfoot with alarming frequency.

The hardest part for the business is the fact that one of the conglomerates, Alterra Mountain Co., essentially surrounds Mt. Baldy.

Zac Chambers and his daughter Whitney, 6, of Upland, snowboard together at Mt. Baldy.

Zac Chambers and his daughter Whitney, 6, of Upland, snowboard together at Mt. Baldy.

It owns Big Bear Mountain Resort and Snow Summit in nearby San Bernardino County, and Mammoth Mountain, the closest big resort in California’s High Sierra.

Although a season pass at Mt. Baldy is a relative bargain at about $300, it’s good only when there’s snow.

For about $800, you can get an “Ikon Pass” from Alterra, which offers access to all of its resorts in California and dozens more across the country and around the globe, including South America, Europe and Asia.

All of which makes keeping the lights on and the chairlifts spinning at beloved, but beleaguered, local resorts an exhausting labor of love.

Last week, Robby Ellingson, president and general manager of Mt. Baldy Resort, drove two hours to a rival resort in Big Bear Lake to pick up spare parts for an old chairlift that had broken down. He thanked them with a few cases of beer.

He planned to grab some tools and install the parts himself, with the help of an electrician.

Michael Phelps, left, and Seven Foster, of Riverside, take the chairlift up to Mt. Baldy Resort.

Michael Phelps, left, and Seven Foster, of Riverside, take the chairlift up to Mt. Baldy Resort.

“I climb the lift towers, I drive snowcats, I do pretty much everything,” he said, chuckling at all of the hard, physical labor despite his executive title. “There’s a lot of things I do that none of the other dudes who hold my position would dream of — out of necessity.”

Another Mt. Baldy executive, Ellingson’s brother Tommy, turned up for an interview on the mountain in a camouflage hoodie, clutching an electric hand drill.

“Everybody’s like a Swiss army knife up here,” he quipped. “It’s awesome, it’s organic!”

It’s also very old-school.

While resorts like Mammoth invest millions in state-of-the-art chairlifts that whisk six people at a time up the mountain with astonishing speed, Mt. Baldy relies on slow, creaking two- and three-person lifts reminiscent of the 1980s.

A lot of the ski gear, ski fashion and the skiers themselves seemed proudly rooted in a bygone era too.

A skier carves down the mountain at Mt. Baldy.

A skier carves down the mountain at Mt. Baldy.

Chris Caron, a 65-year-old retiree who lives 20 minutes down the road, stood at the top of the experts chairlift with a beard as white as snow, a black plastic sun shield across his nose and a cold craft beer in hand.

“There’s big conglomerates trying to buy everybody up, and I don’t want that,” he said, shading himself beneath the bill of his Pliny the Elder ball cap. “That’s what I love about here. It’s not so commercialized.”

Caron said he snowboards at Baldy every chance he gets — 20 to 30 days in a good year.

“I grew up here. We used to ride our bicycles and hike these mountains,” he said. “It’s like home.”

Driving back from visiting family in Missouri recently, Caron stopped at Taos Ski Valley in New Mexico, a bucket list destination for people who don’t shy from pricey vacations. He couldn’t help himself, he said — they’d just had a big dump of fresh powder and it wasn’t too far out of his way. But it didn’t feel right.

“It’s pretty posh,” he said with a resigned shrug. “That’s just not me.”

Also enjoying the uncrowded slopes and gloriously short lift lines on Wednesday was Tommaso Ghio, 28, an aspiring filmmaker from Italy who spent much of the afternoon snowboarding shirtless and looking like an extra from a Visit California commercial.

Old skis adorn a light fixture at the Top of the Notch restaurant at Mt. Baldy.

Old skis adorn a light fixture at the Top of the Notch restaurant at Mt. Baldy.

He and his friends drove up through the desert where it was, “like 80 or 90 degrees, and then we just ended up on top of a mountain,” covered in snow, he said, grinning as if he had won the lottery. “You can’t get this anywhere else.”

But the balmy weather that made the afternoon feel so decadent, and otherworldly, also poses a serious threat to Baldy’s on-again, off-again ski season.

It started with a surprise early storm in November — one that had locals dreaming of a record-breaking year — followed by a bone-dry December.

Then at Christmas, an atmospheric river that dumped several feet of snow on Northern California resorts arrived at Mt. Baldy, which tops out at 8,600 feet, as “catastrophic” rain, Ellingson said.

Rain washes away existing snow and destroys the quality of anything left behind.

And since Christmas week crowds generate about 30% of annual revenue at many U.S. ski resorts, the storm soaked Mt. Baldy in more ways than one.

Things stayed grim until last week’s storm, which dropped more than 2 feet of snow at the base of the resort and up to 3 feet at the top.

People make the up and down trip from the chairlift at Mt. Baldy.

With limited snow at lower elevations, people make the up-and-down trip from the chairlift at Mt. Baldy.

It took some time to recover from damage done by the howling wind and make sure none of the enormous piles of snow on the upper reaches became life-threatening avalanches. When the resort finally opened, the skiing was as good as any in recent memory.

“I’ve lived in Mt. Baldy almost my entire life,” said Ellingson, who is 50, “and last Friday was one of my top five days ever.”

He’s hoping the storm delivered enough snow to stay open for at least a month, but the heat is not helping.

Ellingson’s family bought the Mt. Baldy Lodge, a restaurant in the village far below, in the late 1970s. They started running the ski hill, which they own a substantial share of, in 2013.

Increasingly fickle winters have forced the resort to branch out in an attempt to boost summer earnings and attract non-skiing customers: hosting moonlight hikes with live music in the restaurant at the base of the lifts, renting “glamping” tents on wooden platforms — with beds and locking doors — to tempt uneasy campers to sleep beneath the stars.

And in what Ellingson called a “swing for the fences” move, the resort recently bought a microbrewery in Upland. After serving beers at the restaurant for decades, it seemed like a natural next step.

Anything to avoid getting trapped in a “desk job,” Ellingson said, like his friends working as middle managers at the big, corporate resorts.

“I hate to throw shade,” he said, but do those guys ever go skiing?

Independence is priceless to Ellingson because, when you’re the boss and the snow is good, nobody can order you to stop throwing tricks in the terrain park and flying off jumps.

“I grew up during the X Games boom. That’s my identity,” he said. “I still get rad every single day.”

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I visited world’s only ski-thru McDonald’s with surprising menu and heated ski lift

This resort has a taste-tempting trick up its sleeve that Jeff never imagined seeing during a recent trip up the mountains – a McDonald’s with the world’s first and only ski-thru window

Visit to the world’s only ski-thru McDonald’s (McSki)

A Swedish ski resort has come up with an unexpectedly unique way to top up your tummy while sliding down the slopes – with the unlikely help of a fast food giant.

Everyone who has been lucky enough to give it a go knows skiing is hungry work. And in minus double-digit Scandinavian temperatures, just the shivering burns enough calories to have you scouring the wintry landscape for lunch, a warm snack or hot drink.

Of course, there are all manner of options and temptations in the cosy or cavernous cafeterias and restaurants up and down the mountain. As I found out during a recent Crystal Ski trip, Lindvallen in western Sweden has another taste-tempting trick up its sleeve that I never imagined seeing during a recent trip up the mountains – a McDonald’s with the world’s first and only ski-thru window. Yes, really.

It might not seem a natural combination, and certainly looks odd. If you didn’t know it was there, you could well do a double-take as you ski down Valletorget’s central slope, look past the Experium Express chair lift, to the right of the vast Experiumtorget base building, and spot that unmistakably familiar structure.

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It’s curious enough to see the famous Golden Arches rising incongruously out of the snow, a dark wood-clad, multi-branded, single-story outlet of the worldwide chain, with full wraparound windows and the unusual addition of foot-deep snow covering the whole roof and rows of ski racks out front.

But the real surprise comes when you clock the outside service window. They’ve even given it a special, slightly tongue-in-cheek name – McSki. Opened in the resort in Sälen in western Sweden 30 years ago, even if you’re not a Maccies fan, it’s surely impossible to resist having a go.

The vast area linking several resorts has just got a lot closer after TUI launched flights direct to Scandinavian Mountains Airport, just a 20-minute transfer away. You don’t get the full drive-thru sister experience – no menu board with speaker station to place your order. But the full menu is available, seen through the glass on the left, when you ski or snowboard up to the sliding window, greeted by the familiarly uniformed McD’s employee smile from their significantly warmer surroundings.

Within minutes, you’re away with anything from just a McCafé coffee and pastry to a full Big Mac meal deal. There are outside tables, or if you don’t want to miss any more time on the piste than necessary, you can jump right back onto the heated seated lift a few yards away and enjoy your snack or lunch on your way back to the top for more.

To be honest, it’s not ideal or as attractive an option in February. When it’s minus 12 to minus 15, little is more welcome than a break indoors with your hands around a steaming coffee, tea or mug of hot chocolate.

But I’d wager a stack of McDonald’s Monopoly pieces that it comes into its own in March and April, when the weather is more suited to dining on the go.

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As well as hungry work, skiing is also a pricey pastime (which reminds me, the outlet’s prices roughly match the hike at motorway services in the UK).

So when you want to squeeze every run out of your time on the slopes and not spend ages stripping off multiple layers of garb – or in fact even stepping out of your skis – to satiate your thirst and replenish those calories, a quick stop at McSki might be just the order.

Offered alongside the full normal eat-in experience, McSki certainly brings a whole new meaning to the term fast food – and the Swedes and skiers are clearly lovin’ it.

If a snow-style McDonald’s is not your thing then there are other unique chains around the world. Customers can sit at sophisticated tables by a stunning fireplace while enjoy lobster rolls and McNuggets at this McDonald’s McMansion, in the Maine.

And there is another posh McDonald’s in New York. Fans have been wowed by this old mansion that has been restored and turned into a fancy fast-food eatery with a grand staircase, a glass conservatory, and posh booths to eat in. The historic property was previously home to other restaurants and was also used as a funeral home.

Book it

Crystal Ski Holidays (020 8610 3123) offers a bed and breakfast holiday in Högfjället, Sälen in Sweden, staying at the Sälens Högfjällshotell from £818 per person when booked online. Based on two adults sharing a Superior Twin Room, including flights from London Gatwick to Scandinavian Mountains Airport, transfers and 20kg hold luggage per person.

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David Beckham shares selfie with Harper on ski trip and says ‘making memories with kids is important’ amid Brooklyn feud

SIR David Beckham shared sweet snaps with daughter Harper at an exclusive ski resort and spoke of “making memories” with his kids amid his family feud with eldest son Brooklyn.

Becks, 50, is in Courchevel, France, with Harper, 14, and it looks like they’ve had a fun-filled week of fine-dining and snowy exploration.

David and Harper Beckham have been holidaying in CourchevelCredit: Instagram
Becks spoke of the importance of making memories with his kidsCredit: Instagram
The father and daughter duo explored the exclusive French resortCredit: Instagram

Proud David shared a selection of their photos and wrote: “Creating memories with the kids either together or one on one has always been been important to me. 

“So this week Me and Harper created a few more memories. Love you pretty lady @harperbeckham.”

It comes a day after David came to the aid of a Brit tourist who fell over on the slopes in the French Alps.

A source said: “David saw the woman hit her head and was worried about her.

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Beckham becomes knight in shining armour as he helps injured skier at resort

“He took her skis off and made sure she was OK – he was a true gentleman.

“David was incredibly lovely, and so was the ski guide with him.”

Meanwhile, Harper recently reached out to estranged brother Brooklyn on Instagram sparking hopes she could be the one to thaw frosty relations.

She posted pictures showing her with Brooklyn and her other brothers Romeo and Cruz.

In one Valentine’s Day post she wrote, “I love you all so much, words can’t describe it” — while in another she called them “the best big brothers in the whole wide world”.

Harper’s posts were at first seen only by the 93 followers of her private account — but mum Victoria, 51, then reshared them with her 33.5million followers.

David enjoyed a glass of white wine in a rustic lodgeCredit: Instagram
Harper warmed up with a glass of hot chocolateCredit: Instagram

Brooklyn, 26, and Harper are not believed to be in touch, despite him reportedly feeling “protective” over her.

He does not follow her on Instagram and it is unclear if he has blocked her.

Last month Brooklyn posted a statement online blasting his parents and claiming brothers Romeo, 23, and Cruz, 20, had been “sent to attack me on social media, before they ultimately blocked me”.

He accused mum Victoria of “hijacking” his wedding day and “embarrassing” him with “inappropriate” dancing.

Brooklyn also sent a legal letter to Victoria and dad David, 50, insisting they contact him only via lawyers.

Harper was not mentioned. It is hoped that she, and other members of the wider family, may be able to ease relations with Brooklyn and his actress wife Nicola Peltz, 31.

Though he seemingly ignored his sister’s messages, sharing only a belated Valentine’s post in tribute to Nicola, in which he vowed to “forever protect and love you”.

Brooklyn has cut off his famous familyCredit: AP
He accused mum Victoria of ;hijacking’ his wedding to Nicola PeltzCredit: Getty

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I took my toddler to the French ski resort in a bid to make her the next Olympic prodigy

SCROLL through Instagram for five minutes and you’ll feel like the worst parent.

There’s Sky Brown, the Olympic skateboard prodigy whose British dad Stuart had her surfing and skateboarding before she could spell.

Two people ski touring down a snowy mountain slope under a clear blue sky.
Ski touring down the valley of the Ruisseau de Bellecombe in Savoie, FranceCredit: Alamy
Snow-covered chalets in the La Rosière ski resort in the French Alps.
The snow covered chalets in winterCredit: Getty

And toddler Aubrin Sage, who started snowboarding Washington’s Cascade Mountains at 18 months.

My feed is basically a highlight reel of super-parents raising mini athletes while I’m celebrating that my daughter ate a vegetable.

The pressure is real. And it’s been amped up in light of the Winter Olympics.

So when I heard about La Rosiere – a French Alps resort that takes kids as young as 18 months – I saw my chance.

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Time to turn my 20-month-old Lena into the next big thing on snow.

La Rosiere doesn’t mess about. Its ESF ski school’s Galopins Club had Lena on a snowboard-sled hybrid that looked utterly adorable.

Between snow play sessions they kept the kids busy with crafts and stories. Half-day or full-day options with lunch meant I could hit the slopes guilt-free.

Founded by shepherds in the 1960s, the resort has somehow kept its cosy village vibe while going all-in on the family market.

The revamped beginner zone at Les Eucherts features a toddler-friendly four-seater chair lift and a covered mountain picnic area – genius for when your hangry three-year-old has a meltdown in ski boots.

For families, here’s where La Rosiere gets clever. Its X-periences pass costs £59 extra on top of a six-day ski pass but throws in ice skating, cinema, laser tag, paintball, and something called X’treme Luge that sounds like it should come with a waiver.

Evolution 2, the resort’s adventure school gets kids playing at being ski patrol, opening slopes, and doing outdoor escape games.

While Lena was learning not to face-plant, I got to explore the Espace San Bernardo area – 96 miles linking La Rosiere with Italy’s La Thuile.

The new Mont Valaisan lift opens up serious back country at 2,800 metres, and I lucked out with blue-sky powder days.

The south-facing slopes make for sun-soaked days with stunning views of the Haute Tarentaise valley.

And with 80 per cent of the slopes above 1,850m, snow conditions were fantastic throughout our stay.
Time of her life

My base at Lodge Hemera (booked through Peak Retreats) was ski-in, ski-out luxury with a kitchen that saved my family a fortune.

On the nights we didn’t feel like cooking, we went to Le Comptoir, a family-friendly bar with great pizza.

Did Lena become the next Shaun White? Not exactly. She spent more time eating snow than shredding it.

But La Rosiere delivered: World-class childcare that let me remember why I love snowboarding, while my toddler had the time of her life playing in the snow.

So no, I won’t be posting videos of my prodigy daughter doing backflips.

But at least I can say we tried – and I got a decent ski holiday out of it. In the Instagram parenting Olympics, I see that as a win

GO: La Rosiere

GETTING THERE: British Airways flies from London City to Chambery, from £80 return. See ba.com.

STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ self-catering with Peak Retreats at Le Lodge Hemera in a two-bedroom apartment is from £468pp based on five sharing.

Price includes return Eurotunnel crossing, with a free FlexiPlus upgrade (except on some school holiday dates), peakretreats.co.uk.

MORE INFO: larosiere.net/en

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Six features of Olympic skiing that you should know

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There are two varieties of fencing: A-net and B-net.

A-net is more rigid, often permanent, and used to prevent racers from flying off the course and into dangerous areas, off cliffs, into rocks and the like.

B-net is temporary and closer to webbing that’s aimed at absorbing the kinetic energy of a falling skier. Frequently, there are multiple layers of B-net with space in between that combined to act as a catcher’s mitt.

“They put nets where you have really big fall zones and high-speed sections, places where you need that extra level of protection,” Morse said.

It isn’t like tumbling into a pit of foam blocks, though.

“The A-net is much more like hitting a trampoline,” Morse said. “The B-net is designed to come out of the ground and wrap you like a blanket. … When you go into the nets, your boot buckles, your bindings, your skis, they all get tangled in the webbing.”

So what does it feel like when you’re going 70-80 mph?

“Terrible,” he said. “It’s like you’re in a washing machine getting hit with sticks.”

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