Santorini

SANTORINI’S latest move to limit numbers of cruise-ship visitors descending on the Greek isle is into its second week – and looks to be easing congestion.

The local authorities have said no more than 8,000 trippers – equivalent to the passengers of two or three ships – can disembark daily over summer.

Previously, as many as 17,000, from seven or eight vessels, had choked the streets of Santorini hotspots Fira and Oia during peak season.

It comes as the island also introduces a controversial 20-euro port tax per passenger, which has led to some cruise lines cancelling visits in protest.

Other new changes, first announced last year, mean a maximum of 30 per cent of a ship’s passengers can now arrive at the island’s Athinios ferry port, which has road access.

The rest must use island capital Fira’s Old Port and head up to the town by cable car (which has long queues on busy days). Or sweat their way up 588 steps.

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The latest change, which came into force on June 1, means tender operations – where passengers are ferried ashore in small boats from ships parked in the 1,200ft- deep waters of the island’s caldera – are now carried out by vessels of the Santorini Boatmen’s Association (SBA) rather than cruise ships’ lifeboats.

The Greeks have also set a 500-passenger limit on numbers waiting for the cable car or a tender at the Old Port – and to keep to that figure, tendering schedules will be controlled by SBA vessels rather by than the ships’ crews.

I visited gorgeous Santorini earlier this week – aboard Tui’s Marella Voyager, one of three ships in the caldera – and was pleasantly surprised by how well things are working, having faced horrendous overcrowding on previous trips.

The SBA tender to Athinos, to catch a tour bus to the south of the island, was on time, the boat was lovely and modern and the crew were friendly.

When I later stopped at Fira for lunch, it was busy but not overcrowded and I could stroll the pretty streets easily and stop for photos with no jostling.

There was no queue for the cable car down, though there was one at the bottom waiting to head up.

My tender back to Voyager was also very easy, with a short queue and swift boarding.

Only time will tell how things pan out this summer, and no doubt the island authorities can make further changes if required, but my visit this week was seamless and Fira was fun, not frightful.

I’M not religious but, if heaven looks this good, I want a ticket there.

The blue domed roofs of Santorini’s churches have been painted to match the sky and are symbolic of spiritual paradise, my guide tells me.

They’ve got the colour spot on, I point out.

Not a single wisp of white cloud taints the blue canvas sitting behind the white-washed buildings.

I was in the village of Oia, where hotels, restaurants and holiday homes tumble down the cliffside towards a glistening sea.

I’ve seen this picture before, although not in real life.

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The exact scene in front of me is so famous it even stars on the packet of feta cheese that I bought from the supermarket before sitting down to write this piece.

Oia sits on the largest of the islands that make up Greece’s ­Santorini.

Yes, Santorini is actually five islands (I didn’t know either).

It was once one larger patch of land, but thousands of years ago a volcano erupted so aggressively that it collapsed in on itself, sinking into the ocean and splitting the area into five fragments.

Known as a caldera, the volcano’s crater sits 400m below the water’s surface — deep enough for giant cruise ships to sail over.

The high perches of Oia, on the main island of Thera, offer a great vantage point for admiring the ­vastness of this watery pit and the village is also on the right side of the island for catching the most spectacular sunsets.

It gets busy, though, and sadly you can’t just wander to any old bar or viewpoint without booking first or arriving extremely early.

That was the huge perk of my Tui Musement excursion — which also included a visit to local wineries earlier that day.

At the end of my village tour I had a seat waiting for me at one of the most sought-after sunset bars, Sun Spirit, where I drank in clear views of fiery pinks and oranges melting into the horizon.

This same group of seats always remains reserved for customers on this specific Tui tour — as good a reason as any to book.

But before we settled down, tour guide Kim took the experience to new heights, guiding our group to not only the key sights but also the best spots for those all-important pictures, away from the overly busy areas where you’ll have to queue (yes, really) to get your shot.

Crowds are the only downside to Santorini. Its beauty is so widely known that it can attract hordes of tourists, especially on days the cruise ships sail into town.

That’s why visiting early or late in the season is best — it’s cheaper then, and the heat is more manageable.

Luckily, I had ample opportunity to cool off at my hotel when temperatures soared.

The 5* Tui Blue Meltemi, is set mere yards from the beach in the laidback region of Perissa and is a great spot for lazing.

Even the most basic rooms here come with a whirlpool bath, some inside and others outside.

Plus, there are three outdoor pools, framed by sunloungers and palm trees.

All stays are half-board, meaning you only need to shell out for lunch — but with such plentiful breakfast and dinner buffets, you may not even fancy a midday meal.

Also included in every stay is one dinner at The Culinarium, the hotel’s fancy a la carte restaurant where I opted for a Greek tasting menu that knocked my socks off.

Over several hours, while the sun set, I gorged on creamy orzo, fava bean hummus and a simple salad of cherry tomatoes, an ingredient Santorini produces in abundance.

They are also a staple in Santorini’s must-try tomato fritters.

You can learn to master this traditional recipe, along with other local classics, at a cooking class (£87pp).

Or if you’re more of a sunbathing sort, you won’t regret booking a catamaran cruise that sails through the belly of the caldera to beaches that can’t be reached on foot.

Our talented skippers delivered me cocktails and beer while I soaked up the rays from the wide nets at the front of the boat, admiring the rocky landscape of the islands from a distance.

Forget what I said earlier. It turns out I’ve already found heaven.

I CAN’T help but feel like a young Lord Alan Sugar as I negotiate a handmade mug down to half price in one of the most beautiful market streets.

In May sunshine, the glorious blue sky pops off the glistening white walls of the stunning coastal town of Sidi Bou Said in northern Tunisia.

All the buildings are decked out in white and blue, providing a gorgeous visual as the perfect sky kisses the crystal clear, calm Mediterranean sea.

My guide, an affable local named Madhi, tells me the striking colour scheme also helps combat the effects of the incredible heat, which can reach well over 40C in summer, by reflecting away the sun.

Sidi Bou Said is reminiscent of Santorini and symbolic of the blend of cultures that modern-day Tunisia infuses.

It is an Arabic country but there are French and Roman influences too, due to the country’s colonial past.

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Madhi tells me there is a liberal view among many Tunisians as he points out that if one sister decides to wear an Islamic veil, and the other opts for no veil and multiple tattoos, both can expect to be treated respectfully.

Just down the street from Sidi Bou Said, and via Tunisia’s presidential palace no less, are the remarkably well preserved ancient ruins of Carthage.

I marvel at the fact this site isn’t more heaving with visitors, given its historical significance.

Around 2,000 years ago, this was one of the most important sites in the Roman Empire, following a bloody battle between the Romans and the Carthaginians.

Now it offers a brilliant insight into Tunisia’s past, just a 20-minute drive from the country’s capital Tunis.

Rather than stay there, however, we have booked in at the plush five-star Les Orangers Garden Villas and Bungalows, an hour’s drive south in the popular coastal town of Hammamet.

With Enfidha Airport (served by several EasyJet flights from the UK every day including a new route from Newcastle) just 30 minutes away, Hammamet offers an intriguing alternative for tourists.

And our stay at the all-inclusive Les Orangers didn’t disappoint.

The entrance is lined with palm trees and we are greeted by friendly staff bearing mocktails and dates.

Once through reception, we walk out into an enormous courtyard full of plants, seating areas and more palm trees.

There is a gym, two outdoor pools and an indoor one as well as a spa featuring sauna and traditional Tunisian-style hammam with massages available to book.

The hotel has an international buffet restaurant and three a la carte restaurants offering Italian, Tunisian and Asian specialities.

There is also a rooftop tapas bar, beachfront snack bar and an Italian-style deli bar so you’re never short of spots to refuel — plus four bars, including one by the beach.

My spacious modern room, which has a view of the sea so good I can even enjoy it from the shower, came complete with air conditioning and mini bar.

I’ve never felt sand so soft as I walk to my lounger on their private beach.

The sea itself is beautifully clear and the perfect temperature; offering a pleasant shock to the system before settling down and feeling really quite warm.

As I lay back to soak up the sun I can hear German, Italian and French accents but only a few British ones.

I can’t help but feel that we might be missing a trick not flocking here in even greater numbers.

Those that do will enjoy the country’s remarkable food.

For a true taste of authentic Tunisian cuisine we head 15 minutes inland to Douar Laroussi, a family-run farm and restaurant.

Each door has a woman’s name written above it, which Madhi informs us is to stress that the woman is the true boss of each household.

Our host, and his charming aunt Jdidia, greet us warmly as they prepare to show us how their food is made.

Here Jdidia works her magic, and even gets us to join in.

She moulds tabouna bread into shape with her hands before baking it in an outdoor oven.

Next is the couscous, which she masterfully crafts from just semolina and water.

For our starter we mix olive oil made on site with mouth-watering local harissa and our homemade bread, which took barely ten minutes.

After tucking into my divine vegetable couscous I just had to buy some of their olive oil and harissa, I absolutely had to take some back to the UK to share.

In Hammamet itself are two Medinas; the old and the new.

The old, part of a second century fortress looking out over the sea, gives me an opportunity to test my bartering skills again as local Tarek engraves my name into a plate in Arabic.

I don’t quite manage to haggle down to half price this time but I’m happy with my unique souvenir, not to mention this wonderful trip as a whole.

THE UK is basking in temperatures of up to 30C this bank holiday, it’s even going to be hotter than Greece, or as Sun Travel like to call it – perfect beach bar weather.

If you’re hoping to sip on a cool beer or salty margarita by the coast, check out our favourite spots in Kent, Devon, all the way to the Isle of Wight (and don’t forget your sun cream).

Follow The Sun’s award-winning travel team on Instagram and Tiktok for top holiday tips and inspiration @thesuntravel. 

Little Swift, Kent

“Sipping frozen margaritas on the beachfront as the sun sets behind you… there’s hardly a better way to spend a sunny afternoon in the UK.

“And Little Swift in Margate, Kent, is one of my favourite places to do it.
The tiny natural wine & cocktail bar has a number of tables on the pavement out front, overlooking Margate’s Main Sands beach.

“They specialise in frozen cocktails from £9, with flavours ranging from pina colada and margarita to Aperol sours.

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“Grab a drink, people watch, then make your way to Beach Buoys for some of the best fish and chips of your life.” – Caroline McGuire, Head of Sun Travel (Digital)

Bo’s Beach Cafe, Devon

“The atmosphere may be a little more mellow than some of the other spots mentioned in this list, but the views will surely trump them all.

“The decking from Bo’s Beach Cafe juts out over North Sands beach, a dog-friendly shore in Devon.

“Wooden picnic tables look out towards the bluest of oceans where you can watch the sea tractor roll in and out daily, collecting local passengers from the water and delivering them to dry land.

“Expect to mingle with a mix of laidback locals as well as tourists who prefer to escape the crowds of the nearby Salcombe.

“The pizzas are legendary and can be washed back with an ice cold beer.” – Sophie Swietochowski – Assistant Travel Editor

The Hut, Isle of Wight

“For a spectacular sunset cocktail or a chilled glass of rose, there’s no better place to be than The Hut at Colwell Bay on the Isle of Wight.

“This chic, laid-back beachfront restaurant and bar combines the casual charm of a traditional British seaside pavilion with the vibrant, sun-drenched energy of a Mediterranean beach club.

“There’s panoramic views across the Solent from its open-air deck where you can enjoy the freshest seafood while the DJ spins mellow tunes and as night falls, the party really starts.

“The joint is popular with sailors too – and has its own dedicated tender service to bring people from their boats, yachts and dinghies.” – Lisa Minot, Head of Sun Travel

The Venus Cafe, Devon

“We all know Devon beaches have a lot to boast about, but at the red sand, Broadsands Beach near Paignton, you’ll find the fantastic Venus Cafe.

“With views of the bay, the Venus Cafe has a huge decking area with over 100 seats to soak up the sunshine.

“If you are here in the morning then they breakfasts are a must, but the cafe also serves locally caught fish such as mackerel and sardines at the weekend.

“From the beach bar you can also spot the two Brunel steam railway viaducts, where you will see steam trains chugging along.

“The cocktails are a must here – costing just £9.50, flavours include a tropical pineapple daiquiri with coconut and Salcombe’s Island Street rum.

“Prefer something with more of hit? Pick the Espresso Martini, which is made with local Tors Vodka and a pinch of sea salt (game changer!).” – Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter

Rockwater, Hove

“Last summer during the July heatwave, I was sunning myself in Hove and stopped by Rockwater Beach Club on the promenade.

“The venue is rustic-looking on the outside and blends in with its surroundings with wooden- slatted exterior and huge glass windows.

“The inside is spectacular with plush chairs, a beautiful bar and a holiday-like atmosphere with both locals and tourists chattering away.

“I felt like I was in another country as I sipped on an Aperol Spritz whilst the sun shone through open windows looking over Hove Beach.

“When I go back next, I’m desperate to sit upstairs on the roof terrace which soaks up the sunshine and has sweeping views across the seaside.

“The drinks list is as long as your arm with everything from classic cocktails to refreshing summer coolers.” – Alice Penwill, Travel Reporter

Surf Side, Cornwall

“I can think of nowhere I’d rather be on a gloriously hot day than Surf Side on the Cornish shores of Polzeath.

“This lively rum bar is spread across two floors and spills out onto the sands with party goers stomping their feet late into the evening.

“I once heard someone refer to this spot as an “apres-sea” bar and it feels completely fitting with hordes of surfers stumbling in after hitting the waves.

“The food is decent, as well as the cocktails  – sample the local oysters, gorge on a steak sandwich or tuck into moules marnieres (mussels in a white wine sauce).

“Outside on the sands – and part of the bar – you’ll find a little old beach boat that’s been converted into a food van of sorts and sells outdoor BBQ bites and beach fries.” – Sophie Swietochowski – Assistant Travel Editor

Blackpool Sands, Devon

“At Blackpool Sands – which is already very picturesque – you’ll find Blackpool Sands Café, Lounge and Restaurant.

“The tropical-looking lounge has an interior and vibe that transports you to the Mediterranean, with straw umbrellas, floor-to-ceiling glass doors and a heap of natural light.

“And its so close to the beach that the sand even gets inside.

“Dishes on the menu all use locally sourced ingredients, so what you eating feels as good as what you see.

“But – as you are in Devon – make sure to get their cream tea.” – Cyann Fielding, Travel Reporter