The English Regency town with Rome-style attractions and Japanese-like bars
CHELTENHAM is famed for its racecourse and its annual “Greatest Show On Turf”.
But there’s so much more to do in this pretty Regency spa town than have a flutter on the horses.
Emma Glanfield takes you on a tour of the best of the rest.
WHY SHOULD I GO? Sitting at the foot of the Cotswolds hills, Cheltenham is vibrant and buzzy, with a backdrop of well-preserved Regency architecture and rolling countryside.
And its abundance of quirky hotels, lively bars and boutique shops make it perfect for a weekend away.
There always seems to be something exciting going on, too, with the town hosting more than 30 festivals and events a year.
Among these are the 80-year-old music festival and the world’s longest running literature festival.
And, of course, it is the home of National Hunt racing, with the Cheltenham Festival boasting pinnacle event the Gold Cup.
STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? The spa town is sprawling but walkable, and there’s plenty of gorgeous architecture to enjoy on the way.
Wander the elegant, tree-lined Montpellier district — one of the town’s most historic areas — and take in the surroundings while popping into boutique shops and cosy cafes.
The Grade I-listed Rotunda, inspired by Rome’s Pantheon, was once a spa pump room but is now a branch of The Ivy hotel. You can dine there amid the Art Deco-style interior.
It’s also worth a stroll around The Suffolks, a sought-after district with mid-19th century buildings, independent shops and cafes, plus a friendly pub called The Suffolk Arms.
ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST? It really is worth attending a Cheltenham race meet. There’s a reason the town is known for its horseracing, and you don’t have to be massively into the sport to enjoy it.
With food, drink and glam all on offer, it’s a great, fun-packed day out. Alternatively, take a walk up Cleeve Hill — the highest point in the Cotswolds — for breathtaking panoramic views across the town and towards The Malverns.
WHERE SHOULD I EAT? With burgers as big as your head, The Beefy Boys is not to be missed. It was buzzing on the Saturday night we visited.
The atmosphere was jolly but not so loud you couldn’t chat.
The award-winning Dirty Boy and Oklahoma Onion Boy are absolute beasts, but delicious. Go hungry!
For those wanting a more formal affair, or for a special occasion, Settebello, in Belgrave House, serves authentic Italian cuisine. We feasted on giant bowls of rigatoni with an ox cheek ragu, £18, and Spigola Puttanesca (sea bass with a punchy tomato sauce), £25. The two-course lunch menu at £19 is well worth the money.
FANCY A DRINK? There are stylish bars all over, but a visit to Mr Cambray’s Curiosity won’t leave you disappointed.
Cafe by day, cocktail room by night, it has five themed rooms to explore.
There’s also the recently opened Parler on Clarence Street, in the heart of town. This Georgian building has been reimagined into a Parisian-style cafe by day, and a Japanese listening bar come sundown, with a cosy retro vibe.
The Retreat Wine Bar in Suffolk Parade is a bit of an institution, having been serving drinks since 1982. For late-night entertainment, the Gin & Juice Bar has more than 400 gins on offer and regular live music.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY? For those wanting to be in the town centre, Hotel du Vin is a great choice. The 4H boutique hotel is set in the Montpellier district just a five-minute walk from The Promenade, a local shopping district.
Breakfast is a continental spread with hot plate options, taken next to the impressive underground wine cellars.
At night, guests can enjoy a glass of wine in The Laroche tasting room before diving into soft Egyptian cotton sheets in one of the hotel’s 49 bedrooms. Our room had a huge double bed and walk-in “monsoon” shower.
For those seeking pure relaxation away from the hustle and bustle, you won’t go wrong with The Greenway Hotel & Spa.
The 16th-century manor house — an eight-minute taxi ride from the town centre — was once a grand family home before being taken over by The Eden Hotel Collection. A £1.2million makeover included 21 beautifully revamped bedrooms.
The in-house Elan Spa is not to be missed.
GO: CHELTENHAM
GETTING THERE: Cheltenham Spa station serves routes up and down the country, from Aberdeen to Penzance, while GWR runs direct trains to London in two hours. By car, Cheltenham is just off the M5.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at Hotel du Vin start from £90 per night B&B for two people. See hotelduvin.com. The Greenway is £203 per night. See thegreenwayhotelandspa.com.