retreat

SACRAMENTO — Gov. Gavin Newsom told world leaders Friday that President Trump’s retreat from efforts to combat climate change would decimate the U.S. automobile industry and surrender the future economic viability to China and other nations embracing the transition to renewable energy.

Newsom, appearing at the Munich Security Conference in Germany, urged diplomats, business leaders and policy advocates to forcefully stand up to Trump’s global bullying and loyalty to the oil and coal industry. The California governor said the Trump administration’s massive rollbacks on environmental protection will be short-lived.

“Donald Trump is temporary. He’ll be gone in three years,” Newsom said during a Friday morning panel discussion on climate action. “California is a stable and reliable partner in this space.”

Newsom’s comments came in the wake of the Trump administration’s repeal of the endangerment finding and all federal vehicle emissions regulations. The endangerment finding is the U.S. government’s 2009 affirmation that planet-heating pollution poses a threat to human health and the environment.

Environmental Protection Agency administrator Lee Zeldin said the finding has been regulatory overreach, placing heavy burdens on auto manufacturers, restricting consumer choice and resulting in higher costs for Americans. Its repeal marked the “single largest act of deregulation in the history of the United States of America,” he said.

Scientists and experts were quick to condemn the action, saying it contradicts established science and will put more people in harm’s way. Independent researchers around the world have long concluded that greenhouse gases released by the burning of gasoline, diesel and other fossil fuels are warming the planet and worsening weather disasters.

The move will also threaten the U.S.’s position as a leader in the global clean energy transition, with nations such as China pulling ahead on electric vehicle production and investments in renewables such as solar, batteries and wind, experts said.

Newsom’s trip to Germany is just his latest international jaunt in recent months as he positions himself to lead the Democratic Party’s opposition to Trump and the Republican-led Congress, and to seed a possible run for the White House in 2028. Last month Newsom traveled to the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland, and in November to the U.N. climate summit in Belém, Brazil — mocking and condemning Trump’s policies on Greenland, international trade and the environment.

When asked how he would restore the world’s confidence in the United States if he were to become president, Newsom sidestepped. Instead he offered a campaign-like soliloquy on California’s success on fostering Tesla and the nation’s other top electric vehicle manufactures as well as being a magnet for industries spending billions of dollars on research and development for the global transition away from carbon-based economies.

The purpose of the Munich conference was to open a dialogue among world leaders on global security, military, economic and environmental. Along with Friday’s discussion on climate action, Newsom is scheduled to appear at a livestreamed forum on transatlantic cooperation Saturday.

Andrew Forrest, executive chairman of the Australia-based mining company giant Fortescue, said during a panel Friday his company is proof that even the largest energy-consuming companies in the world can thrive without relying on the carbon-based fuels that have driven industries for more than a century. Fortescue, which buys diesel fuel from countries across the world, will transition to a “green grid” this decade, saving the company a billion dollars a year, he said.

“The science is absolutely clear, but so is the economics. I am, and my company Fortescue is, the industrial-grade proof that going renewable is great economics, great business, and if you desert it, then in the end, you’ll be sorted out by your shareholders or by your voters at the ballot box,” Forrest said.

Newsom said California has also shown the world what can be done with innovative government policies that embrace electric vehicles and the transition to a non-carbon-based economy, and continues to do so despite the attacks and regressive mandates being imposed by the Trump administration.

“This is about economic prosperity and competitiveness, and that’s why I’m so infuriated with what Donald Trump has done,” Newsom said. “Remember, Tesla exists for one reason — California’s regulatory market, which created the incentives and the structure and the certainty that allowed Elon Musk and others to invest and build that capacity. We are not walking away from that.”

California has led the nation in the push toward EVs. For more than 50 years, the state enjoyed unique authority from the EPA to set stricter tailpipe emission standards than the federal government, considered critical to the state’s efforts to address its notorious smog and air-quality issues. The authority, which the Trump administration has moved to rescind, was also the basis for California’s plan to ban the sale of new gasoline-powered cars by 2035.

The administration again targeted electric vehicles in its announcement on Thursday.

“The forced transition to electric vehicles is eliminated,” Zeldin said. “No longer will automakers be pressured to shift their fleets toward electric vehicles, vehicles that are still sitting unsold on dealer lots all across America.”

But the efforts to shut down the energy transition may be too little, too late, said Hannah Safford, former director of transportation and resilience at the White House Climate Policy Office under the Biden administration.

“Electric cars make more economic sense for people, more models are becoming available, and the administration can’t necessarily stop that from happening,” said Safford, who is now associate director for climate and environment at the Federation of American Scientists.

Still, some automakers and trade groups supported the EPA’s decision, as did fossil fuel industry groups and those geared toward free markets and regulatory reform. Among them were the Independent Petroleum Assn. of America, which praised the administration for its “efforts to reform and streamline regulations governing greenhouse gas emissions.”

Ford, which has invested in electric vehicles and recently completed a prototype of a $30,000 electric truck, said in a statement to The Times that it appreciated EPA’s move “to address the imbalance between current emissions standards and consumer choice.”

Toyota, meanwhile, deferred to a statement from Alliance for Automotive Innovation president John Bozzella, who said similarly that “automotive emissions regulations finalized in the previous administration are extremely challenging for automakers to achieve given the current marketplace demand for EVs.”

The scene is entirely black, white, grey and silver. It is cold, unusually dark and a film of ice is forming on the lake. I’m sitting in an unlit wooden sauna, alone, in immense silence. The only noise is the soft ticking of the stove as the heat rises. Across the water are ghostly silver birches and dark pines. Above them, Orion’s Belt shines bright. This vivid experience feels like midwinter in Canada, Finland or anywhere else about 60 degrees north. So it’s bizarre to know I’m a few miles south-west of Great Yarmouth.

Fritton Lake is an anomaly. Like the Broads to the north, this deceptively big, sinuous lake was largely created by medieval peat-digging, but it’s nothing like its Norfolk cousins. Set in a sandy, hilly landscape of heaths and pines, the northernmost outpost of the wildlife-rich strip of sandy heathlands running up the Suffolk coast, the lake is deep and two miles long but so hidden by trees that many people don’t know of its existence.

Over the past five years, Fritton Lake has been transformed by a rewilding programme. Landowner Hugh Somerleyton is the co-founder of WildEast, a now-national movement encouraging people to pledge to “wild” at least 20% of their garden, park, playground or farm. Fritton and its surrounds represent Somerleyton’s 25% rewilding contribution, while he farms the rest of his 2,020-hectare (5,000-acre) estate regeneratively.

I’ve brought my family for a winter weekend seeking wildness in far-eastern England. Arriving after nightfall, my first impression is simply darkness. Anything as suburban as a lit walkway or illuminated sign is not found here. But we locate our self-catering cottage, one of a range of accommodation options that includes chic wooden cabins (some with hot tubs) and B&B rooms in the cosy pub turned clubhouse that is now is both a holiday destination and a high-end members’ club.

The highlight of our first night is a (very) quiet private 30-minute session in the lake’s magical floating sauna. Between pub and sauna are courts and pitches for tennis, basketball, football, cricket, croquet, pétanque and pickleball. Down by the lake are canoes, kayaks, rowing boats and paddleboards. Passing the heated outdoor 22-metre swimming pool with fire pits at either end is like stepping through a set for a film about a 1960s Cliveden pool party featuring Christine Keeler, except there is a solitary swimmer doing laps as the pool steams alluringly in the chill night air.

The next morning, I wake up to another silence so deep it might swallow me. Huge flocks of jackdaws and rooks fly overhead as we stroll through rewilded grassland to the pub for a hearty breakfast. Afterwards, my son Ted and I set out on a Fritton “safari”. Our guide, Matthew, is a fast-talking, east London-raised botanist-horticulturist-entomologist-mycologist. We jump in an old-fashioned, cream-coloured motorboat and putter slowly across the lake, which is superb for swimming and also enjoyed by pike, eels and, in winter, teals, shelducks and egrets. In summer, an osprey occasionally hunts for fish here, while “all the owls” – little, short-eared, long-eared, tawny and barn – are seen nearby alongside six endangered amphibian species.

On the far side of the lake, the wildlife area is only open to those on guided tours (and Scout groups). We climb into an open-sided 1976 Austrian Pinzgauer 4WD and Matthew bumps us through the woods. Amid last year’s bracken, we spy an enormous shiny black shape slumped under a pine. A hippo? Creeping closer, we find that the shape is a pair of huge black pigs that Somerleyton has “retired” to the woods. They flick floppy ears out of their eyes to examine us. Their rootling mimics wild boar lost to this landscape, disturbing the ground and assisting wildflower germination; former arable fields are filled with oxeye daisies in summer. We admire the long-horned Highland cattle roaming free, while a buzzard cries in the sky above.

Ted spots a muntjac and a fallow deer, and then Matthew screeches to a halt with excitement. “King Conan’s sons!” he whispers. There, crossing our paths are two magnificent red deer stags, although apparently not quite as magnificent as King Conan himself. “They are the princes,” whispers Matthew. They observe us, seemingly unafraid, from 15 metres away.

On our return across the lake after an otherworldly three-hour experience, two kingfishers pirouette around our boat, shining iridescent orange and turquoise against the dark water.

My kids are mortified when I arrive at the pub for dinner wearing my Dryrobe, but if it is socially acceptable anywhere, it must be here. I need it for another sauna session that follows an amazing steak from a menu emphasising local/seasonal food, with good veggie options too. An owl calls on the walk back to the cottage.

On Sunday morning, I rise before dawn to explore Carlton Marshes, a Suffolk Wildlife Trust nature reserve that’s a 20-minute drive away. The sunrise fills the vast sky with pink, and I have the seemingly endless marshes of the Waveney to myself, silent reeds silvered by frost. A Chinese water deer watches me, its teddy bear ears twitching, as I circle round the reserve, which is a haven for rare dragonflies and the spectacular fen raft spider in spring and summer. Although this coast is dominated by the surprisingly large conurbation of Great Yarmouth, Lowestoft and surrounding villages, Gorleston-on-Sea’s sandy beach offers another great stroll with seabirds and salty air.

Later that day, while my wife, Lisa, does a yoga class, I head for a farewell sauna and find the open session is packed with a friendly crowd of regulars who say they wish Somerleyton would build another sauna or two. I pop outside and duck into the lake, cracking ice as I gasp with the delicious cold shock.

We head home much less frantically than we arrived – a sign of the nourishment provided by a weekend of painterly light, stripped-back landscapes, cold water, warm hospitality and the gorgeous avian soundtrack of this wild, wintery east.

The trip was provided by Fritton Lake. Clubhouse rooms from £130; two-bed cabins from £275.

FORGET everything you thought you knew about spas, this one is unlike any other – it doesn’t have white walls and you don’t have to silently tiptoe from the sauna to the hot tub.

At Ffolkes you can natter as much as you like, indulge in cocktails from the comfort of a giant hot tub all under the glow of neon lights and a disco ball.

Inside the Norfolk spa are 12 thermal spa experiences across four zones called Ibiza, Sauna, Steam and Cold – and Ffolkes suggests visitors start in ‘Ibiza‘.

The party island-themed zone has a giant hot tub with a bar right beside it, so you can order drinks without leaving the water.

It has everything you could want from beer to wine, bubbles, margaritas, mojitos, winter sangria and non-alcoholic options.

On the outskirts of the tub are heated loungers and foot spas.

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For those who want the quieter spa experience – head to Soft Play which has double loungers, bean bags, a swing and infrared heaters.

When you want to heat up, check out the three saunas – each with its own mood and scent.

The Global Sauna is the spa’s biggest and is where visitors can try a ritual and guided sessions.

The Salt Sauna is filled with the scent of sea fennel, lavender and lemon. 

And the Herbal Sauna infuses heat with botanical smells.

There’s one Aroma steam room which is infused with essential oils and the other is Eucalyptus, a calming spot where you can really clear your head.

To cool off, head to the cold plunge pool which sits between 10-12C.

Visitors can then chill off even more in the mist shower and the ice fountain.

A visit to the spa wouldn’t be complete without a treatment and here, there are many options from Indian Head Massage to facials and scrubs.

All that relaxing is hungry work – and Ffolkes offers lots of food from brunch to quirky afternoon tea.

In the mornings, tuck into full English breakfasts, pancakes, fruit salads and cinnamon rolls.

It also offers a unique afternoon tea with chocolate chip scones and homemade chocolate spread, cheeseburger sausage rolls, Korean BBQ bao buns (from £30pp).

There’s a choice of Indian food every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday evening from butter curries to coconut dahl and flatbreads.

If there’s room for dessert, tuck into a s’mores dip sharer, apple pie or even a cookie dough baked cheesecake.

The spa even has a 9-hole crazy golf course with loop-de-loops and a golf ball vortex – all inside shipping containers.

The spa with a difference in King’s Lynn opened in September 2025 and you can book in for a relaxation session.

Spa sessions start from £65 with the three-hour Twilight experience where guests have access to 12 thermal spa experiences.

It includes unlimited tea and coffee and pick ‘n’ Mix nibbles whilst in the spa.

Half-day sessions either in the morning or afternoon start from £95 which has additional post-spa food in the pub.

This is either Afternoon Street Tea (Monday–Saturday) or Pie FEAST (Sundays).

Morning or afternoon half-day spa with treatment start from £150pp which includes a 45-minute treatment.

The spa offers overnight stays for those who want to relax for more than one day which starts from £300 per night.

The brightly decorated rooms have huge beds and some even have outdoor baths in the courtyard.

The most luxe is the Spa Cabin which has a private hot tub, wood burner, sauna and outdoor shower.

For more on spas, this Bridgerton-like countryside hotel has a beautiful spa, gardens and restaurant.

And this dreamy English staycation with infinity pools, pic ‘n’ mix pantries and new spa gardens.