quieter

ROMA, Texas — Standing on a high bank of the Rio Grande, Army Lt. Col. Ray Richards points to a stretch of river that was, until recently, one of the busiest spots for illegal border crossings from Mexico.

But on a recent afternoon, the area is quiet. American soldiers gather at a border monitoring post in Roma, Texas, where an infantry vehicle with camouflage netting sits between houses. A Blackhawk helicopter drops soldiers onto an island in the river, while U.S. Border Patrol agents breeze by on fan-propelled boats.

“At any given time, there would be multiple rafts full of people trying to get to this side,” Richards said of the area before U.S. forces made it a priority last year.

The Army has been inviting reporters to the Rio Grande Valley as it deploys hundreds more soldiers to the region this month by shifting some of the thousands of troops already serving along the 2,000-mile border. U.S. officials said the troop surge follows signs of elevated activity from drug cartels and has been accompanied by increased cooperation from the Mexican military. The U.S. Coast Guard said it recently encountered gunfire from the Mexican side of the river, prompting the Americans to fire back.

In this small patch at the southern edge of the United States, a slow saga is playing out — a curious mix of policing, policy and politics.

Some question a troop surge just weeks before midterm elections

While Republicans face increasing headwinds because of President Trump’s unpopularity, persistently high prices and the fallout from the war in Iran, border security has remained a relative bright spot in Trump’s polling numbers, with about half of Americans saying they approve of his performance there.

But some experts have questioned the need for such a large military presence. They suggest it’s less about effective strategy and more about political theater.

Illegal crossings have plummeted due in large part to asylum restrictions that began before Trump returned to the White House. Meanwhile, a large percentage of the fentanyl, cocaine and heroin seized along the border was being smuggled in cars and trucks passing through checkpoints, not the areas in between.

David Shirk, a University of San Diego political science professor, said the Trump administration wants to remind voters it’s been very aggressive on border security.

“I don’t dispute there’s some benefit to having personnel in areas at risk for people smuggling and drug trafficking,” Shirk said. “But the vast majority of that is now happening at ports of entry.”

Dessa Bergen-Cico, a professor of public health at Syracuse University who studies drug trafficking, said street prices for cocaine and fentanyl are still low, suggesting the drug flow remains unimpeded.

But Army Maj. Gen. Curtis Taylor, who commands the military’s southern border task force, said the work has been vital and effective, particularly for targeting human trafficking.

The moral argument for the Army’s mission is “dismantling this marketplace of human trafficking that is bringing people into the border,” Taylor said. “An added benefit of that is there’s an awful lot of drugs moving with that human trafficking.”

Efforts to secure a former epicenter of illegal crossings

Roma, a city of about 10,000 people, lacks a border wall in some places because homes sit close to the steep slopes along the Rio Grande. Directly across the water is Miguel Alemán, a town in the Mexican state of Tamaulipas that’s been plagued by decades of cartel violence. From Roma, it’s a football field’s distance across the river at best and much less in some places.

In 2021, Roma became a center of illegal crossings when thousands of families and unaccompanied children arrived each day to seek asylum. Border crossings fell sharply after President Joe Biden introduced severe asylum restrictions in 2024 and dipped after Trump suspended asylum at the border.

After Trump returned to the White House in January 2025, the Army and Coast Guard expanded operations to back up the Border Patrol, which remains the lead agency for border security. The Army now commands some 8,000 U.S. troops along the entire border, while the U.S. Coast Guard and Texas law enforcement have brought in more personnel.

Army officials said people still try to cross into Roma despite multiple obstacles. A barrier of strung-together buoys, each the size of a hay bale, stretched along the river. Concertina wire lined the U.S. river bank, while a surveillance blimp hung in the sky. A river island was recently cleared of trees that hid people trying to cross.

Army Sgt. Nathaniel Decker said he recently saw people on three rafts set out from the Mexican side at dusk. He reported to Border Patrol that one group had cleared the buoys. They were eventually caught by a house in Roma.

Mexico also has sent more troops

The U.S. has stopped many of the drones used by the cartels to surveil the border and ferry drugs, by electronically jamming or capturing them or shooting them down with a laser.

The U.S. has gotten better at tracking them and coordinating with Mexican officials to locate the drones’ operators. But some still get across.

“We have reduced a lot of the flights,” said Richards, the Army lieutenant colonel, who has deployed with the Massachusetts Army National Guard. “But in the middle of the night, those drones can fly into the U.S. airspace, and that’s a true threat to any soldier on the ground.”

Under pressure from Trump, Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum has cracked down more heavily on crime than her predecessors. Mexico this month sent 500 National Guard and military officers to Tamaulipas as part of a coordinated effort with the U.S. to prevent drug and human trafficking.

Mexico’s deployment “is based on intelligence gathered regarding the movements of criminal groups,” a federal official in Mexico told The Associated Press, speaking on condition of anonymity because he was not authorized to comment on the matter.

As part of the operation, the Mexican Army is using two UH-60 helicopters, drones and anti-drone equipment.

The U.S. Coast Guard has also boosted patrols on the Rio Grande, bringing in more than 300 personnel in October of last year. While assisting Border Patrol in trying to apprehend someone attempting to enter the U.S. illegally, the Coast Guard encountered gunfire from the Mexican side of the water near Garceno, Texas, the service said in a statement. The Americans returned fire. None were hurt.

U.S. Coast Guard Cmdr. Jeff Miller wouldn’t give additional details about the exchange of gunfire, except to say the personnel are “working in a very challenging environment” and are authorized to use force to protect themselves.

On a recent patrol, the scene along the river was quiet. A Coast Guard boat armed with machine guns motored along the greenish water. Two men fished from a small boat. A privately funded border wall, made from galvanized steel, lined the American side. In Mexico, there was a park with soccer goal posts, homes and a woman waving.

A Coast Guardsman driving the boat, who declined to give his name, said he’s seen kids on the Mexican side get excited as if a fire truck were passing. Others have offered the Americans cold beer. Some have reacted with offensive gestures.

Joel Garcia, Border Patrol’s acting deputy chief patrol agent for the Rio Grande Valley, said the agency has proof that U.S. operations have been effective based on the amount of drug seizures, the number of people apprehended and decreasing traffic within certain areas.

“Border security, when done right, if we have truly secured the line, should be boring,” he added. “It should look as if no one is crossing and nothing is happening.”

Finley writes for the Associated Press. AP writers Fabiola Sánchez and Megan Janetsky in Mexico City contributed to this report.

Both Puglia and the Amalfi Coast are ideal if your idea of a holiday involves spending your days wandering around pretty coastal towns, stopping for seafood and taking a dip in the Mediterranean

There is a reason the Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most famous holiday destinations. The combination of dramatic cliffs, turquoise water, colourful villages and incredible Italian food makes it almost impossible not to fall in love with it. But there is also a downside to being somewhere that beautiful and well-known: everyone else wants to visit, too.

I recently travelled around southern Puglia, which sits east of Amalfi across Italy, and I found myself constantly comparing the two. Both regions have a lot in common: they’re hot, beautiful and have an unmistakable Mediterranean atmosphere.

But one thing in particular sets them apart. Instead of huge crowds filling every viewpoint, I found myself in Puglia walking through quiet streets where locals were still going about their everyday lives. The region isn’t exactly a secret, with places such as Alberobello firmly on the tourist trail, but it’s still much easier to escape the crowds there.

So how else do the regions match up?

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

Landscape and towns

The biggest similarity between Puglia and the Amalfi Coast is, unsurprisingly, the sea. Both destinations are ideal if your idea of a holiday involves spending your days wandering around pretty coastal towns, stopping for seafood and taking a dip in the Mediterranean.

The Amalfi Coast is famous for its steep cliffs, with towns seemingly built into the mountainsides above the sea. Puglia, meanwhile, is generally much flatter. I didn’t mind losing the cliffside views as Puglia’s flatness made exploring much easier. You don’t have to spend your day navigating steep roads and packed coastal viewpoints.

Otranto is a perfect case in point. Located on the Adriatic coast, the easternmost city in Italy has scenery you might expect on the Amalfi Coast, but with a much quieter atmosphere. This fortified old town is packed with tiny streets, historic buildings and restaurants, while the seafront opens out onto bright blue water.

I never felt overwhelmed by tourists there. I could simply wander around without having to constantly dodge people or wait for a gap to take a photograph. Greek and Byzantine influences have shaped the town, as did a brutal massacre in 1480 when Ottoman forces killed hundreds of residents who refused to renounce their Christian faith. The event is still remembered at Otranto Cathedral, where the remains of the 800 martyrs are kept.

Travel a little further south and you’ll reach Alberobello, the most touristy town in Southern Puglia. Alberobello is probably the most famous destination in Puglia, thanks to its extraordinary trulli: small whitewashed stone houses with distinctive conical roofs.

There are more than 1,400 trulli in the town, and the area has UNESCO World Heritage status. It is incredibly pretty, but also extremely touristy. The main streets are packed with souvenir shops, restaurants and visitors taking photographs, so if you’re expecting to discover a completely hidden Italian village, you might be disappointed.

But I found an easy way around this. Cross the town’s valley into Rione Aia Piccola and the atmosphere changes almost immediately. This is a residential area where people still live in traditional dry-stone huts, called trulli, and the streets are noticeably quieter.

The contrast summed up my experience of Puglia: even in the places that are undeniably touristy, there’s another side to discover if you’re willing to walk a little further.

Which is cheaper?

One of the biggest advantages Puglia has over the Amalfi Coast is the price. The star-studded West Coast has a reputation for being expensive, particularly in famous towns such as Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, where accommodation and restaurants can quickly add up.

Puglia isn’t necessarily a budget destination, particularly in peak summer, but I found it much easier to eat well without spending a fortune. Otranto was particularly affordable, with filling paninis and seafood dishes for around €12 or less. On the Amalfi Coast, finding a bargain is nearly impossible. You find yourself paying a premium simply for a location and view.

The food

This is an area where Puglia and the Amalfi Coast have plenty in common. Both regions make excellent use of fresh seafood, vegetables, olive oil and wine, but they have their own specialities.

In Puglia, olive oil is everywhere, used liberally along with tomatoes, almonds, fresh root vegetables and local cheeses. One of the region’s most famous foods is orecchiette, the small ear-shaped pasta traditionally served with broccoli rabe, while burrata is another staple.

I also kept coming across focaccia barese, a soft bread topped with tomatoes and olives, as well as panzerotti, fried pockets of dough usually filled with tomato and mozzarella. Along the coast, seafood naturally features heavily, with octopus, mussels and other freshly caught fish appearing on menus.

The Amalfi Coast has its own distinctive flavours. Lemons are perhaps the biggest one. The region is famous for its large Amalfi lemons, which are used in everything from desserts and drinks to savoury dishes, while delizia al limone and limoncello are two of the most recognisable treats.

Seafood is also central to the Amalfi Coast, with dishes such as seafood scialatielli, a type of fresh pasta, and totani e patate, squid cooked with potatoes.

Which Italian destination is better?

It’s not that Puglia has made me fall out of love with the Amalfi Coast. The destination is spectacular, and there is a reason millions of people want to see those famous cliffs and colourful villages for themselves.

But after travelling around Puglia, I found myself wondering whether it might actually be the better choice for a traveller who wants a quieter, more authentic experience. If you want dramatic cliffside scenery, glamorous restaurants and famous Instagram views, Amalfi is hard to beat. But if you’re after beautiful beaches, historic coastal towns, incredible Italian food and somewhere less crowded, I’d seriously consider Puglia.

Book it

You can visit Puglia as part of Great Rail Journeys’ eight-day ‘Hidden Gems of Southern Puglia’ trip, starting from £1,799 per adult, based on double occupancy.

The price includes return flights from London Gatwick or Heathrow to Brindisi, accommodation at a four-star all-inclusive resort, all coach travel, and guided tours and excursions. You can find out more and book on greatrail.com.