Palm

This village resort has been captivating visitors for 100 years with Italian-inspired architecture and palm trees that make you feel like you’re on a Mediterranean holiday

If you’re dreaming of an Italian escape, it turns out you needn’t venture beyond British shores, as this private village resort nestled in Wales delivers that authentic ‘la dolce vita’ experience without the eye-watering cost of flights.

Deliberately designed to evoke a slice of paradise along the Welsh coastline, Portmeirion provides the perfect retreat, boasting a wealth of dining, drinking, shopping and breathtaking natural scenery to soak up.

Every carefully considered detail within the village is crafted to conjure the feeling of a Mediterranean haven, and it has continued to draw visitors in droves ever since its establishment in the 1920s.

Guests can stay for however long suits them, whether that’s simply popping in for a leisurely day-long stroll through its immaculately designed streets, or settling in for a longer break spanning several days. Indeed, many devoted visitors opt for an annual pass, granting them unlimited access throughout the year, weather permitting.

When did it all begin?

The stunning Portmeirion sprang from the imagination of Welsh architect Clough Williams-Ellis, whose vision was to create a development that would complement and preserve the natural splendour of its surroundings.

His creation was constructed across two distinct phases — the first running from 1926 to 1939, and the second from 1954 to 1976.

By the time the project was complete, Clough was well into his 90s, and the vast majority of the buildings had been designed and constructed by him personally, with only a handful being relocated from elsewhere.

One such feature was the Town Hall, which was transported from the Bristol Colonnade.

Throughout his work, Clough showed a distinct fondness for Italian architectural styles, leading many to speculate that the Italian coastal town of Portofino served as his inspiration.

He firmly rejected these claims, however, insisting that he merely wished to ‘capture’ the atmosphere of the Mediterranean — and it’s safe to say he delivered on that ambition.

Despite its compact size, the village boasts an impressive array of styles and hidden gems, from its Riviera-inspired townhouses to the ornamental gardens and Italian-style piazzas scattered throughout.

Central to all of this is the grand Hotel Portmeirion and its accompanying village rooms, which provide private accommodation for the approximately 200,000 visitors who flock to the village each year.

One recent guest wrote on TripAdvisor: “As if straight out of cinque terre Italy! Buildings of unusual shapes sizes and colour everywhere you looked. Magnificent it really made you feel as if you’d stepped into another world.”

Where to stay

The Hotel Portmeirion was opened by Clough in 1926 as the centrepiece of the village, serving as the catalyst for his grand vision for the surrounding development.

Within its walls lies a complete world of its own, featuring 14 elegant bedrooms alongside a fine-dining restaurant and an impressive terrace and bar space.

The four-star hotel also features an open-air swimming pool situated on the estuary lawn. Rates for a double room for one night start at approximately £328 and can incorporate breakfast and dinner packages.

The village rooms are scattered throughout Portmeirion and cater for all types of groups, with family rooms on offer and ground-floor alternatives for accessibility requirements.

Every village room is individually crafted to be distinctive whilst maintaining that Mediterranean ambience, and all benefit from the picturesque views across the Dwyryd Estuary and beyond.

With magnificence at its heart, the village is also home to its own castle, Castell Deudraeth, which serves as a four-star residence that Clough described as “the largest and most imposing single building on the Portmeirion estate”.

Those opting not to stay but still wanting to sample the glitz and glamour of the castle can choose to dine at its own brasserie. There are also self-catering cottages on offer to rent in the village, alongside a motorhome park for caravans and campers.

Eating Out

Offering breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, the Castell Deudraeth Brasserie serves excellent food in a relaxed setting with stunning surroundings. One visitor wrote on TripAdvisor: “A lovely traditional conservatory-style restaurant, with prompt, friendly and efficient service, a good choice on the menu, reasonable prices and very tasty food.”

They added: “We enjoyed lamb shank, plaice, and pork T-bone main courses after fine starters, with good wine choice. The Castell is an impressive Victorian-built place, with an impressive fireplace and surround in the lounge area.”

The Hotel Portmeirion’s restaurant similarly features prominently amongst favourites, boasting over 500 excellent TripAdvisor reviews. Elsewhere, Caffi Glas proves a popular dining destination, with guests particularly taken by its alfresco seating arrangement, designed to evoke an Italian piazza complete with central fountain.

The open-air dining experience proves a hit with visitors seeking that holiday atmosphere, who relish the establishment’s freshly made pizzas, pasta dishes and salads. Complementing the food are delicious wines available by the glass alongside locally sourced, traditional Welsh beers – a fitting tribute to its Welsh location.

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For families, the Palm Springs Air Museum is an unexpected gem. Kids 12 and under are free, and many of the volunteer docents are veterans who can share insights and firsthand stories about what’s on display — and that is a truly impressive spectacle of aircrafts. Over 75 planes, helicopters, jets and other aviation marvels are parked around the museum’s five air-conditioned hangars, including several that were used during World War II, the Korean War, the Vietnam War and the global war on terror. With no velvet ropes cordoning them off (unless they’re undergoing maintenance), kids can walk up right next to these aircrafts, many of which are still in flyable condition.

For kids with big dreams of manning the controls someday, there’s a designated area where they can sit in former airplane cockpits and play pilot, all alongside a fire engine, a “Star Wars” X-wing model and the nose of a Flying Boxcar that’s open for exploring. And every Saturday morning, the cockpit of a select aircraft parked inside the hangar is made available to guests who are able to climb inside.

There are also unique learning opportunities within the museum, which is dedicated to educating the public about the role that air power has played in upholding American life. The upstairs Education Center holds over 13,000 titles, as well as flight simulators that anyone can test out. And through the museum’s First Flight Experience, students from the Coachella Valley and surrounding areas who are 12 to 17 years old may apply to take their first flight lesson onboard the museum’s Cessna 182 Skylane, Inspiration One, at no cost. As part of the program, students work with a flight instructor to learn about protocols during an actual flight with the time spent in the air counting toward the number of hours required to qualify for a pilot’s license.

For those who would rather remain in the role of passenger, the museum offers the chance to fly on several different warbird planes. Ranging in price from a few hundred dollars to several thousand, visitors may board military cargo planes or fighter jets in group or private settings and take flight over the Coachella Valley.