The train rocks you to sleep and wakes you somewhere spectacular
There was plenty of stunning scenery to explore(Image: Kirsty Bosley)
Just one sleeper train ride away from a major English city is spectacular views, deserted beaches and waterfalls. Features Writer Kirsty Bosley branded it “one of the most magical days of her entire life”.
Just the previous evening, she had been stuck in gridlock at Birmingham’s Five Ways island, stressed and anxious about missing the Caledonian Sleeper – the train that lulls you to sleep in the midland city and rouses you in the Scottish Highlands.
She secured a ticket to whisk her from Brum to Inverness, awakening in Scotland following a 10-hour journey on the overnight service and granting roughly 12 hours there before her pre-booked return departure.
The purpose was straightforward: To see whether the Caledonian Sleeper merits booking, given it’s only recently begun collecting passengers in Birmingham. Kirsty gives her honest opinion on her trip…
Therefore, I was determined to cram in absolutely everything possible during those 12 hours – family-friendly attractions, trails for hikers, intimate experiences for lovers and tranquil spots for contemplation in the wilderness, much like the moment I was savouring on Dores Beach, reports Birmingham Live.
Furthermore, I aimed to accomplish everything whilst spending minimal money, surviving on Tunnocks Teacakes and Irn Bru alongside small portable snacks we grabbed en route. The day’s largest expense turned out to be the most worthwhile: a pre-paid £42 hire car from Enterprise.
After a brisk 15-minute stroll from the train station, we picked it up and embarked on our ambitious mission to navigate the entirety of Loch Ness (roughly 70 miles) in a single day.
Fuelled by a mere £15, we accomplished our goal, embarking on a clockwise journey that began with tears of joy as the loch unveiled itself, perfectly timed to Taylor Swift’s bridge from Cruel Summer blaring from the speakers.
We pulled over, rolled down the windows and danced roadside under the rising sun, brimming with anticipation for the perfect day ahead.
A masterclass in Loch Ness
Following our jubilant pit stop, our first destination was the Loch Ness Clansman Hotel to see the plaque commemorating Ozzy Osbourne’s nocturnal escapades in the loch, where he searched for Nessie alongside his son Jack.
Driving felt less like a chore and more like a pleasure with the constant backdrop of the Highlands. In Drumnadrochit, at the hotel where the monster tales originated, we made our second largest purchase of the day: £15 entry to The Loch Ness Centre, narrated in its entirety by David Tennant.
As we moved from room to room, we delved into the origins of the rumours, the ensuing frenzy, the history and geography of the land, and the Scottish myths and legends that lent an air of reality to the tale.
We also discovered the fascinating science behind why it’s impossible to definitively prove there isn’t a monster lurking in a body of water so extraordinarily deep that all the freshwater from every lake, reservoir and river in England and Wales combined couldn’t fill it.
Following that revelation, I found myself scrutinising the water far more intently, half-convinced there was a genuine possibility she might poke her enormous neck above the surface to greet us passing Brummies.
The sheer sense of wonder sparked by the centre’s masterclass justified the entrance fee entirely, as every subsequent free activity we undertook was now enhanced by our newfound knowledge.
We reached Urquhart Castle in remarkably quick time – a military ruin positioned directly on the water’s edge.
Walk-up admission costs £16 and whilst I was certain it would be spectacular to explore, we decided to save it for another visit now we were absolutely convinced we’d be returning. Boat excursions can transport you there, so that was immediately added to my ‘to-do’ list.
Enchanted woodlands and breathtaking vistas
We pressed on along the waterside A82 towards Invermoriston, the sort of place that appears lifted straight from an adventure film.
The Old Bridge spanning the thundering falls of the River Moriston, as it crashes dramatically towards Loch Ness, resembles something from a fairy tale. Despite being situated on the renowned Great Glen Way trail, it all felt like a mystical secret because remarkably few other visitors were present.
We parked up (parking is free, but donations are appreciated, as with many public toilets along the route) and embarked on a stroll into the woodland, pausing at the historic Summer House Victorian folly to soak in the surroundings, much like folks did years ago as salmon battled their way upstream.
Meandering through spongy clusters of radiant white reindeer lichen, pausing to observe the rapids and keeping an eye out for squirrels, I felt a sense of tranquillity wash over me. It’s a must-visit spot for any traveller – I wish every Brummie could experience it.
By the time we reached the South Shore, it was 2pm, and we’d managed to cover half the loch’s circumference in just four hours.
A brief pause for photos and laughter ensued before we rounded the southernmost point and were greeted by a view so breathtaking from the Suidhe Viewpoint that we had to pull over.
Another family of tourists arrived, and although we exchanged few words, our shared silence spoke volumes about the unforgettable, life-affirming moment we were experiencing. We swapped cameras to help each other capture proof of our presence in this extraordinary place. The wild beauty of our surroundings was almost overwhelming as we continued our journey.
Wildlife and waterfalls
We encountered a majestic stag who turned to regard our car. It felt like we’d stepped into an illustration on the front of a tin of special shortbread biscuits. Overhead, giant birds, possibly including a golden eagle, soared majestically.
Our next stop was the Falls of Foyers, a spectacular 140ft waterfall nestled within a forest inhabited by elusive red squirrels. Tunnocks Teacakes and Irn Bru proved insufficient fuel for the challenging descent down steep steps, but thankfully the Waterfall Cafe offered sausage rolls and other snacks to revive us.
With daylight fading, we passed by Boleskine House (the former residence of Aleister Crowley and Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page), which was shut, though we went anyway simply to say we’d been, before heading off to find a man we’d discovered at The Loch Ness Centre.
Dusk – One final adventure
Steve Feltham is a renowned ‘Nessie Hunter’ who abandoned his family business, relationship and home to move from Dorset. Since 1991, he’s lived on the loch’s shores and has devoted himself to spotting ‘the monster’ ever since.
Yet his tale is really about leaving behind what doesn’t fulfil you and pursuing the life you desire. I desperately wanted to meet him before nightfall.
We reached his modest dwelling as the sky began transforming colours above Dores Beach. He wasn’t there, but after the dog-walkers departed, I chose to wait a whilst longer in case he returned.
The pebbled shoreline is magnificent, the surroundings breathtaking. I pondered whether Steve might welcome a new neighbour, though I knew Birmingham beckoned so I could pen this account.
Both Steve and Nessie remained beyond our grasp, only one possessing confirmed existence but both surrounded by legends I yearned to explore further. Returning to relinquish the rental car and hop back on what I’ll forever dub the ‘Loch Ness Express’, we bid farewell to it all, but only physically.
I was convinced that my spirit remained in Invermoriston, still on the hunt for red squirrels. I plan to retrieve her on the next available journey aboard the Caledonian Sleeper. This time around, I’ll be sure to pack sandwiches.
