offseason

‘It’s beautiful off-season’ A weekend in the iconic Italian city and how to find wine for just a few euros

OUR Spotlight On column gives you the lowdown on what to see and do in some of the most popular holiday destinations – as well as some unsung areas.

This week, we’re taking a look at Venice, made up of a group of islands famous for its winding maze of beautiful canals.

Venice is world-famous but there is a way to do it on a budget Credit: Alamy

Travel Reporter Cyann Fielding raved about visiting off-season.

She said: “I visited Venice after the peak season had finished in October – the weather was mild but more enjoyable and all the crowds had disappeared.

“Having read a lot about the city before I visited, I knew to not get a gondola as it would cost me a small fortune.

“But still wanting to see Venice from its waterway, I grabbed a €25 (£21.59) water bus day pass where I hopped on and off boats around the city and got to see many of the amazing views that you see on a gondola (just minus the narrow waterways).

ISLE NOT GO

Italian island introduces strict new ban after thousands of tourists visit


PASTA LA-VISTA

Kate gets stuck in with pasta-making as she enjoys 2nd day of Italy trip

“Eating out in the city can be expensive, but there are plenty of supermarkets around, which are super affordable.

“My family and I managed to pick up a bottle of wine, some meats and cheeses for around €40 (£34.55) total and heading to a pontoon to eat – a much prettier spot than most restaurants.

“The city is also full of quirky Airbnbs which I would recommend over hotels as they often boast original Venetian architectural features.

“And definitely don’t miss out visiting Murano and Burano – two islands in the Venetian Lagoon with the former known for its historic glass-blowing factories and the latter known for picturesque multicoloured houses.”

MUST-SEE/DO

Ride a gondola along the waterways. A 30-minute trip costs from €80 (£69.10) – you can pay more to be serenaded by a singer.

Or try this money-saving tip that won’t sink your budget: to get the experience for just €2 (£1.73) per person, hop on board a traghetto, a smaller taxi gondola that will take you from one side of the Grand Canal to the other.

Venice is much quieter if you visit outside of summer Credit: Alamy

HIDDEN GEM

Venice is made up of around 118 islands, and the main city in the lagoon is really all about tourism.

Many of the locals live and work on the surrounding islands, including Giudecca, just south of the city.

It’s one stop away by vaporetto (water taxi), which has a calmer vibe, but will still give you a fascinating insight into the traditional Venetian way of life.

Here, you’ll find craftsmen making souvenirs in workshops, people creating traditional Venetian masks and glass, or jewellery from paper and growing vegetables in their gardens – everything you’ll buy in the main city.

BEST VIEW

The most obvious is the 98.6metre-tall St Mark’s Campanile (bell tower) in the famous St Mark’s Square.

The tallest structure in Venice, it was originally a watchtower to look out for ships. It costs €15 (£12.96) to enter and you’ll be pleased to know there’s a lift, which takes just 30 seconds to reach the top.

Shopping for famous Venetian masks is a must Credit: Alamy

RATED RESTAURANT

The Hotel Bauer has a rooftop restaurant, De Pisis, with views over the Grand Canal, while the traditional Ristorante Do Forni (where Charles and Diana dined in 1985) is famous for its seafood dishes and dining room modelled on the Orient Express.

At Trattoria Al Gatto Nero, lagoon-fresh seafood and homemade pasta is made quite literally from scratch – so if you want the lasagne, be prepared to wait two hours.

BEST BAR

In 1948, founder Giuseppe Cipriani Senior invented the Bellini cocktail (white-peach puree and Prosecco) in Harry’s Bar, by the Grand Canal. One drink will set you back €22 (£19) – if you can get in

The Cantina do Mori is the oldest wine bar in Venice, founded in the 15th century, and probably one of the smallest.

It’s like stepping back in time as you enjoy local wines and cicchetti – small Venetian tapas.

Costing just a few Euros for wine and food, it’s a charming bargain. They’re open from 8am, but don’t expect coffee – it’s just wine.

HOTEL PICK

Escape the inflated prices by staying further down the coast in the quiet town of Jesolo, at the five-star Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa – ideal for families and couples with fantastic food, pools and playgrounds.

Its sea-view balconies look out on to nine miles of sand, so you can have a beach holiday, too. See falkensteiner.com/en/hotel-spa-jesolo.

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How the Lakers’ huge offseason revolves around Luka Doncic

Welcome back to The Times’ Lakers newsletter, where we’re not in Cancun just yet.

I fortunately have gotten some much-needed sleep during the week since the Lakers were eliminated, but NBA news never rests, especially during this pivotal offseason that could reshape the entire roster.

With almost half of the roster spots in flux, we’ll start with one player who we know will be back next season.

All things Lakers, all the time.

Get all the Lakers news you need in Thuc Nhi Nguyen’s weekly newsletter.

Luka Doncic fourth in MVP voting

He led the league in scoring but Luka Doncic finished a distant fourth in the most valuable player voting, which was announced Sunday before Game 7 of the Eastern Conference semifinals.

While Oklahoma City’s Shai Gilgeous-Alexander won his second consecutive MVP in a landslide, Doncic didn’t receive a first-place vote. Gilgeous-Alexander finished with 939 total points and 83 first-place votes. Nikola Jokic was second (634 total points, 10 first-place votes) and Victor Wembanyama was third (569 points, five first-place votes). Doncic, who had 250 total points, only had one second-place vote, and even fifth-place finisher Cade Cunningham had two first-place votes that contributed to his 117-point total.

This MVP discussion was one of the most competitive in recent memory. A fourth-place finish, especially without a single first-place nod, doesn’t quite do justice to how productive Doncic’s season was. He averaged 33.5 points, 7.7 rebounds, 8.3 assists and 1.6 steals per game. Despite playing without Doncic for the last month, the Lakers maintained a top-four seed in the competitive Western Conference and won 50 games for the second consecutive year. It was just the fourth time in the last 20 years that the league’s scoring champion didn’t receive a first-place MVP vote.

Some of the MVP race comes down to campaigning. Wembanyama, along with stellar play, repeatedly made his case during interviews. Doncic brushed off any chances to do the same.

Doncic preferred to let his play speak, but the message didn’t quite get through. During one of the most magical Marches in league history, Doncic dropped from second in NBA.com’s MVP ladder to fourth.

The season-ending hamstring injury on April 2 didn’t give him a chance to restate his case.

The more disappointing effect of the injury was that Doncic was not close to returning in time for the postseason, where he watched from the sideline as the Lakers got swept by the Thunder.

“It’s very frustrating,” Doncic said last week in his exit interview immediately after the season-ending loss. “I know some people wanted me back, but obviously I wasn’t close to clearing. … If I could be out there, I would be, 100%. Everybody in that room knows that. But it was very tough. Like I said, this is the best time to play basketball. I was sad not to be able to help my team.”

Doncic said he will not play for the Slovenian national team this summer while he prioritizes time with his daughters and recovering. His second daughter Olivia was born in December, and Doncic, who missed two games to be present for the birth, quietly managed a custody battle during the season after he and his former fiancee split.

The last 15 months have been tumultuous for Doncic, but he grew as a leader for the Lakers, coach JJ Redick said, specifically in his dedication to building off-court relationships with teammates after the shocking trade that brought him to L.A. left him in a daze for months.

“I don’t think we got the best version of Luka, the person, [last year],” Redick said. “He was great, but he was phenomenal this year as a teammate and a leader. And obviously, as a player, the guy had a tier one season relative to the rest of the league.”

Still first in the Lakers’ hearts

Will Marcus Smart and Deandre Ayton be back with the Lakers next season?

Will Marcus Smart and Deandre Ayton be back with the Lakers next season?

(Kenneth Richmond / Getty Images)

Doncic took his role as a leader so seriously last season that it started during free agency when he placed recruiting calls to Marcus Smart and Deandre Ayton. With both players facing player options to return, Doncic didn’t commit to trying to woo anyone back.

“We’ll see,” Doncic said. “Can’t tell you nothing.”

Most of the Lakers’ roster could change next season, but Doncic is still at the center of every decision. General manager Rob Pelinka said it’s an “ongoing collaborative process” with Doncic regarding any offseason moves.

Pelinka said the roster will be “retrofitted” around Doncic. It wasn’t that long ago that a superstar still in his prime fell in the franchise’s lap, which shook up every existing blueprint. The new archetype are three-and-D players and rim-running centers.

Ayton was supposed to be a solution at center when he signed last year. When asked how he is approaching his player option, Ayton said after the season-ending game that he hadn’t made a decision yet, but that he had enjoyed his time with the organization thus far.

“It’s purple and gold, that’s about it,” said Ayton, who was the No. 1 pick in the same draft in which Doncic went third. “Just being honored and happy to be on this platform. And another chance, and all of that. There’s great players I learned [from] here.”

Ayton flashed his potential. He was a force during the first-round playoff win over Houston. The Lakers needed him in that series and he delivered. But he also acknowledged that it was “a very humbling experience” being on a team that did not need him to score, instead asking him to primarily rebound and defend the rim with consistency.

Considering that Ayton is coming off career-lows in points (12.5), rebounds (eight) and minutes (27.2) per game, it might be hard for him to command a better salary than the $8.1-million option he has on the table.

Smart can opt into $5.4 million. The 32-year-old could decline the player option with hopes of securing a long-term contract, whether with the Lakers or elsewhere, after he proved he could still be an effective defensive spark plug and offensive shot-maker. Had a late-season right ankle injury not lingered so long, Smart, who played only 62 regular-season games, could have been in the conversation for an all-defensive team nod.

The Lakers need strong defensive players around Doncic and Austin Reaves if the duo reunite as the team’s backcourt of the future. The chemistry on and off the court between the guards was one of the highlights of the season and a reason to be hopeful that it could work in the future.

Doncic called playing with Reaves and LeBron James “an unbelievable experience.” Pelinka said at his end-of-season news conference that Reaves has expressed interest in returning to the Lakers. James’ future is more uncertain: Pelinka said the team will give James space to decide on his own, although he “would love” to have the NBA’s all-time leading scorer back.

Favorite thing I ate this week

Pho with rare beef and beef balls from Pho Show in Culver City.

Pho with rare beef and beef balls from Pho Show in Culver City.

(Thuc Nhi Nguyen / Los Angeles Times)

I was playing hurt the last few days of the season. I sniffled, sneezed and hand-sanitized my way through Game 4 and the end-of-season news conference with Pelinka and Redick then scooped up the ultimate sick day dinner: pho.

The pho tai bo vien (rare beef and beef ball pho) from Culver City’s Pho Show didn’t heal me completely, but it sure helped. I basically slept for three straight days after the Lakers’ season ended. Now between the remaining playoff games across the league, I’ll be catching up on TV shows, reuniting with the friends I neglected for months and enjoying my rent.

In case you missed it

Letters to Sports: Another split decision on future of LeBron James and the Lakers

Lakers continue retooling of organization with plans for more hires

Lakers want LeBron James and Austin Reaves to return next season

‘I don’t know.’ LeBron James unsure if he’ll return for 24th season or retire

Until next time…

As always, pass along your thoughts to me at thucnhi.nguyen@latimes.com, and please consider subscribing if you like our work!



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Puka Nacua taking part in Rams’ offseason program after rehab

Rams All-Pro receiver Puka Nacua was present on Monday when the Rams began voluntary offseason workouts at their Woodland Hills training facility.

Nacua, who entered a rehabilitation facility in March, was not among players scheduled to speak with reporters at the outset of the Rams program, which includes three phases and ends in June.

Coach Sean McVay and general manager Les Snead are scheduled to speak with reporters on Tuesday during a news conference as a lead-in to the NFL draft, which begins Thursday in Pittsburgh.

The Rams, who have the No. 13 pick in the draft, are regarded as a favorite to play in Super Bowl LXI at SoFi Stadium in February.

But they will need Nacua to make that kind of run.

Nacua, 24, was involved in a string of off-the-field situations the last few months, including an alleged biting incident that led to a civil lawsuit.

Nacua led the NFL with 129 receptions last season. He is entering the final year of his rookie contract, and he is eligible for an extension that could equal or surpass the deal Seattle Seahawks receiver Jaxon Smith-Njigba recently signed that includes $120 million in guarantees.

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