Todd Martens’ newsletter delivers news and commentary on the past, present and future of theme parks, right from the theme park capital of the world — Southern California.
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And here at The Times, I have been writing about theme parks for more than a decade. As a journalist but also as a fan, even attempting to analyze my own love for these spaces and why I keep going back.
My entry to theme parks were trips to Florida’s Walt Disney World. These vacations were the highlight of my youth, helping a shy, awkward kid get out of his shell and discover a safe world of play. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve come to see parks as places that reflect our popular myths back to us, allowing us to live inside them and define a role for ourselves. I still insist on riding Pirates of the Caribbean each Disneyland visit, just as my father used to. It’s the second-greatest ride at the park, after all.
Take on a character and quest at Universal Studios
I am standing in front of a makeshift cemetery. On the paths between gravestones are colored footprints, as if left by cartoon characters. These are the trails of a suspect. Purple imprints are what I’m seeking.
I am on the case, and the Scooby-Doo gang is here to help: Velma, Daphne, Fred, Shaggy and, of course, Scooby-Doo himself. Left in the thorny bushes of the graveyard is a clue. Once the latter is discovered, I am one step closer to solving the mystery, one that has unleashed a host of Universal’s classic movie monsters on the ol’ Europe section of the studio’s backlot.
A mash-up of Universal’s classic monsters and “Scooby-Doo!” characters is featured in a game-like experience at Fan Fest Nights.
(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)
Can I and a few hundred strangers restore order and save the day?
Universal’s Fan Fest Nights is in its second year, and after a mixed debut last spring, the after-hours, specially-ticketed event has hit its stride. The centerpiece of the fest, which runs on select nights through May 16 with tickets starting at $74, is a mash-up of “Scooby-Doo!” and Universal’s Monsters, a lengthy game-focused quest with escape room-worthy puzzles.
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The experience, as well as those focused on the worlds of “Harry Potter,” “Dungeons & Dragons” and anime sensation “One Piece,” are hefty, limited-time installations that would be worthy of including in a theme park’s daily operations, as the best of them experiment with character interactions and role play.
While exploring these pop-up worlds, I couldn’t help but think about how stagnant Disney’s own specially-ticketed events have become. Fan Fest and Universal’s Halloween Horror Nights change yearly, yet Disneyland’s popular Oogie Boogie Bash has become repetitive and its other themed nights are too reliant on photo ops and traditional character meet-and-greets.
Taken as a whole, Fan Fest resets expectations for what an after-hours, theme park event should be.
Here there are photo ops and limited-run food, sure (and I highly recommend the graham cracker-like Scooby Snack cookies), but Universal’s live theatrical team has placed the emphasis on exploratory attractions. Actors abound, allowing guests to lean in and take on an active role.
A “Harry Potter” experience at Fan Fest Nights is a walk through a fantastical forest looking for a magical creature.
(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)
In the Potter-focused “Forbidden Forest: Search for the Hippogriff,” we are amateur wizards on the prowl for a magical creature, in this case a majestic, oversized puppet. It reminded me of being a young Boy Scout and going on evening hikes into the woods with a guide regaling us with mysterious tales. In “Dungeons & Dragons: Secrets of Waterdeep,” a returning experience from last season, we are alternately adventurers and thieves.
And in the Scooby gang’s “The Case of the Phantom Director,” we are cast as extras in a film production. The Scooby Doo quest, the heart of the night, comes complete with a 14-page manual full of character bios, clues and missions. You’ll have to read, but it’s a bet that today’s guests are craving personal and interactive attractions that pull as much from immersive theater as they do classic theme parks. I applaud this sort of tinkering with the formula, even as I wonder how attendees will take to having to complete actual brain-teasers in a theme park. At least there is a payoff with a mini show (you do not need to complete the challenges to see the finale).
It took my friend and me more than an hour to solve the Scooby game, and, I confess, we didn’t complete one of the four mini-puzzles. While none of the head-scratchers individually are all that stressful, they are more complex than typical theme park fare and require guests to get out of a mindset of rushing from event to event. (Another friend of mine declared herself too “stupid” to complete the missions, but Scooby fans may simply enjoy living in the make-believe world and playing with the actors).
More of this kind of playful inventiveness, please. Magic isn’t always a fancy animatronic. Sometimes it’s just personalization.
A “One Piece”-inspired stunt show is a popular offering at Universal’s Fan Fest Nights.
(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)
The week in SoCal theme parks
Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge will roll out some major changes on Wednesday. Out with Kylo Ren and in with Darth Vader (and Luke, Han and Leia). I’ll have more on this next week.
It’s your last chance to meet a Wall-E and Eve robotic figure at the Pixar Place Hotel. Wednesday is the final day currently on the schedule. This has been a popular meet and greet at the Disneyland Resort, so give yourself at least an hour, maybe more, to stand in line if it’s a priority for you.
Looking for a Disneyland deal? If you can get there midweek, single-day, single-park tickets can be had for $104 on Wednesday and Thursday. The friendlier price is also available next week, on May 5-6.
Universal Fan Fest Nights returns Friday through Sunday and while I clearly had a positive experience, if you’re considering going, be prepared for lines. The “Harry Potter” walk-through was a two-hour wait most of the evening. Queue up early, too, for the crowd-pleasing “One Piece” stunt show, as there were only three performances on opening night.
Disneyland has announced a host of new food options coming to the park this week, including blueberry cobbler doughnuts at Lamplight Lounge and a Philly cheesesteak at Pym Test Kitchen.
Facial recognition is now being used widely at Disneyland entrance gates. Disney isn’t the first theme park or major SoCal venue to utilize such technology, but Times news writer Hannah Fry spoke to guests about its implementation and delved into the ethical concerns surrounding it.
The best thing I ate at the parks
Universal Studios’ Scooby Snacks cookies are a delightful treat.
(Todd Martens / Los Angeles Times)
I mention this above, but as part of Fan Fest, Universal Studios has released a box of “Scooby Snacks.” They come in bundles of four, packaged in cute purple and green Girl Scout-inspired boxes. They are a delight, and only about $10. The honey & cinnamon dog tags also make a fine coffee accompaniment with breakfast as these are slightly oversize, graham cracker-style cookies. The only negative is you’ll need a Fan Fest ticket to snare them.
Ride report
There was recently a tweak to Universal Studios’ tram tour.
(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)
The past couple weeks I’ve spent a significant amount of time at Universal Studios, partly in prep for Fan Fest and the arrival of the Fast & Furious coaster this summer, but I also wanted to take in its studio tram tour (officially designed as the World Famous Studio Tour). Aside from being a historic attraction, there was recently a change to its “King Kong” section. Namely, 3-D glasses are no longer required. As someone prone to motion sickness, this is a welcome change and I’m pleased to report it looks spiffy. Now if we could just do something about that stomach-churning “The Simpsons” ride.
Tell us your stories. Ask us your questions.
Have a theme park tale to share? Whether it was a good day or less-than-perfect day, I would love to hear about it. Have a question? A tip? A fun photo from the parks to share? Email me at todd.martens@latimes.com. I may feature your note in an upcoming newsletter.
Ride on,
Todd Martens
P.S.
I often work remotely from theme parks — find me on my laptop at Flo’s V8 Cafe at Disney California Adventure, near the Calico Saloon at Knott’s or out in back of the Three Broomsticks at Universal Studios. But even when I’m in a normal office, I still like to write with a bit of theme park optimism. So I turn to music.
My favorite bands (Wilco, the Clash, Sleater-Kinney) will distract, so lately I’ve been seeking instrumental fare. And Disneyland Paris has just released a gem of a work soundtrack. It re-imagined its second park as Disney Adventure World, and while I’m confused as to why my editor didn’t send me to Paris to review it (nudge, nudge), I’ve been consoling myself with the “Adventure Way Symphonic Suite” from the London Symphony Orchestra and French composer Philippe Rombi. It’s calming, a bit majestic, and reminds me of early days music at Florida’s Epcot. That is, it’s music that aims to conjure wonder.
There for a special Peaky Blinders night, I enter a replica village featuring streets any fan will recognise – as this is a filming location for the hit series.
The show’s creator, Steven Knight, has gone as far as describing the museum as “home”.
The event costs £21 and instructions are enticingly vague: “Arrive in 1920s attire and expect mayhem.”
Judging by the fire dancers at the entrance, I’m in for one hell of a night.
Wobbling across the cobbles in heels, I’m wrapped warmly in a thick trenchcoat. If someone had told me I’d accidentally wandered back in time to the actual 1920s, I could have believed them.
Visitors drift between functional stores, from a post office to a barber shop, where one teen exchanged £15 for a Shelby-inspired undercut while their girlfriend laughed from the sidelines.
At the bottom, past a WWI memorial, sits a ruckus of flashing gold fairground rides.
It is so authentic, the only indication that I’m standing on a film set and not a real street corner is the vintage signage and outfits.
I’m jolted to attention by a 1920s car rumbling towards me, open-topped and overflowing with cackling passengers.
“I swear that was Ada,” someone remarks, in a nod to Arthur Shelby’s daughter in the show.
In dim lighting, strangers do have a habit of morphing into familiar faces.
Down a flight of steps sits Canal Street Bridge, a secret meeting place for Ada and Freddie. From there, I can see queues forming for the village pubs, as jaunty piano tunes drift from their doorways.
Having snagged a £4.50 bottle of Cobra, my attention is drawn towards two storefronts: a bakery and a traditional sweet shop. For £10, I secure a bag of lemon sherbets, lemon bonbons and cinder toffee.
Clutching my treats, I teeter down the steps of Canal Street Bridge to enter Charlie’s Yard. This sits on the banks of a canal, where Charlie Strong smuggles illicit goods for the Shelbys.
“Welcome to 1910,” a chainmaker yells, wielding a hammer over a glowing link.
This event is strictly 16+ , and judging by the three street brawls I’ve witnessed already, that’s probably for the best. All incidents involved actors and the colourful language sparked waves of giggles.
My final hurrah is horse racing at St James’ School.
Shuttled into wooden rows, the atmosphere is electric and, after picking their horses, everybody is on the edge of their seats.
Celebrating the flutter with a portion of fish and chips “to go”, it’s time for the steady walk to the exit. By 10.30pm, it feels like I’ve just scratched the surface.
Straddling 29 acres, the site has events exploding on a spitfire schedule. Catching it all seems impossible.
Ticket included, I’ve spent around £50, so this evening has been a steal.
There’s a charming pub that even people who live an hour away don’t know about – but it’s a brilliant place to have a pint on a Friday night
The pub only opens on Friday nights
There’s nothing that says ‘quintessentially British’ quite like a pub. Whether we’re talking big name chains or beautiful low-beamed watering holes with roaring fireplaces, you’d struggle to find a Brit who doesn’t have a favourite local.
One pub that’s definitely stood the test of time is The Puffin. Tucked away on Osea Island, just off the coast in Essex, this quirky pub is only open on Friday nights – and there aren’t any official last orders.
Osea Island gets cut off from the mainland for about 20 hours every day, has almost no shops, and only a handful of residents. Still, even the most isolated of destinations needs a good pub, and The Puffin provides.
This beautiful 300-year-old building is located in the island’s main village, a stone’s throw from plenty of holiday homes. Naturally, I had to check it out when I headed to Osea for a weekend. The Puffin is packed with charm; think authentic low beamed ceilings and an Inglenook fireplace that completely oozes character.
Just a word of caution; the pub’s low ceilings definitely add to the building’s character but they are really, really low. If you’re tall like me, take heed; it’s easy to bump your head when you enter!
Still, I loved the overall decor; the signs and artwork all over the walls of the pub, the pictures of dogs, photos of the island and fun little posters too. There are also gorgeous leather sofas, and piles of old-looking books against the walls. The cosy interior probably wouldn’t fit more than 30 people inside at once, but this adds to its charm in my opinion.
The bar felt chaotic – but I mean that in the best way possible. Considering the pub is isolated from the mainland most of the time, there was an incredible variety of drinks on offer – and I was particularly impressed by the number of local gins and spirits available. Of course no pub is complete without a decent beer selection, but that’s covered too; there were a fair amount of beers on draught, but the majority are bottled.
I opted for a spiced rum and coke, while other people ordered beers, local gins or soft drinks; again, I was really surprised at the wide range of spirit and mixer options available in such a tiny pub.
Another nice touch was that there were bowls of peanuts and crisps available for customers for the entirety of my visit. Overall, it really felt like I’d been transported back in time to a medieval cosy pub with all the benefits of modern comforts, food and drink.
I also had the pleasure of having a chat with Calvin, who runs the pub, and was more than willing to share various stories from the island and its famous visitors. Calvin has been running the pub for about three years; he lives on Osea for five days a week, then stays at home in Heybridge for the other two.
His favourite thing about the job? Being able to chat to everyone who comes in, be that locals, tourists or even massive celebs. Jude Law, Stormzy, Aaron Taylor Johnson, Sean Paul, KSI and the Sidemen and even Example are just some of the famous faces who’ve reportedly visited the pub – and apparently at one point I was stood in the same spot where Martin Freeman had enjoyed a pint. Given that Osea is owned by music producer Nigel Frieda, it’s not surprising that it’s a haven for the A-list.
What’s particularly notable about The Puffin is its irregular opening times; it’s open every Friday and some bank holidays, but other than that, it’s only open on request for events. Calvin added there isn’t really a closing time either; it just shuts once the last punter leaves.
Ultimately, it turned out to be one of the best pubs I’ve visited; not because of the food and drink, but because of the overall atmosphere.
There were groups of people chatting on sofas, people drinking pints next to the bar and laughing with Calvin, and the whole place has an old-timey vibe, with the fireplace adding that extra touch of cosiness. If I make another trip to Osea, it’ll definitely be on a Friday at opening time!
The former Arsenal and Villarreal boss brought with him his own backroom staff, with many of the old guard departing.
Former Sevilla goalkeeper Monchi also joined as Villa’s president of football operations in June 2023 – having previously worked with Emery at Sevilla and winning three Europa League titles together.
Emery immediately made an impact, imposing structure, clarity and belief on a Villa side that was once again flirting with relegation to guide them to a top‑seven finish and European qualification in his first season.
The following campaign proved the progress was no fluke.
Turning Villa Park into a fortress, they established themselves as a top‑four contender during 2023-24 while also reaching the semi-finals of the Conference League, where they were beaten 6-2 on aggregate by Olympiakos.
“The first year we got here in the Conference League, a lot of us hadn’t played in Europe so when we got to the latter stages there was a lot of pressure,” Watkins said.
“Each year we’ve learned and taken something from it. And to trust the manager because he’s so experienced in this competition. He’s won it numerous times so we believe in what he tells us and keep going.”
A first taste of top-tier European competition since 1982-83 came last season when they reached the Champions League quarter-finals against Emery’s former side Paris St-Germain.
And on their way to the last eight, they posted memorable league-stage wins against Bayern Munich and RB Leipzig while also holding Juventus to a goalless draw.
And this season’s run on the continental stage further underlines their upward trajectory under the Spaniard.
“It’s an amazing achievement for us to progress to the semi-finals and to go one step further than last year in the Champions League,” Watkins said.
“We’re really enjoying being in this competition and this is where we want to be, in the semi-finals.”
Emery told TNT Sports: “I’m very happy. We were organised and tried to impose our ideas and style, which is not easy against Bologna.”
“We are so happy with the way we are performing in this competition. It was fantastic. We are in the semi-finals, but there is still work to do.”
If you’re looking for inexpensive holidays in parks with caravans or lodges that offer plenty of activities and access to nature, then here are some picks for the May half-term dates
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There are a number of Center Parcs alternatives across the UK (pictured: Tattershall Lakes)(Image: Away Resorts)
May half-term can be an excellent time to book a staycation. It’s usually warm and pleasant, but avoids the intense heat of summer, and popular tourist areas can be less crowded than in July and August.
Many parents will be looking for UK holidays like Center Parcs, with cosy lodges, lots of natural beauty nearby, and plenty to keep the kids entertained. While Center Parcs is an excellent choice for families, May half-term is a pricey time to book. A four-night break in its Whinfell Forest venue in Sherwood Forest for two adults and two children will set you back £1,349. Although if you can go the week before the same break is £599.
However, there are plenty of alternatives to Center Parcs across the UK that offer similar accommodation, activities and vibes for less, and here are a few cheaper breaks you could consider for May half-term. All prices are based on two adults and two children on a four-night midweek break from May 25. All prices are subject to availability and may change.
Tattershall Lakes, Lincolnshire – from £542
In the heart of the Lincolnshire countryside is Tattershall Lakes, a 300-acre resort that sits around serene lakes. Its list of activities is impressive, both on water and dry land, and guests can tackle high ropes and zip wires, take on the inflatable aqua course, swim in the indoor pool or outside lido, or hire a bike and explore the park’s many country trails.
This holiday park offers both caravans and lodges, the former being the cheapest option for May half term at £542 for four nights. However, you can upgrade to a Comfort Lodge for the same dates for £737, or Luxury Alpine Lakeside Lodge for £948. Some accommodation options also have private hot tubs for cosy evenings in. Check availability and book via the Away Resorts website.
Keldy, North Yorkshire – from £895
Lodges at Keldy are deep in the forest, some of them just peek through the trees, while others look out over vast, unspoilt meadows. If you’re looking for a half-term break in nature, this peaceful park is a great option. Accommodation is in well-equipped cabins, and the cheapest option for half-term is the Silver Birch. Priced at £895 for four nights, this cabin has two-storey accommodation that includes two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and its own private hot tub on the decking. Book online at Forest Holidays.
Part of the park’s appeal is that there are not huge amounts of amenities. You simply enjoy the peace of the forest, whether that’s relaxing on your deck or taking a walk or cycling in the forest. There is a shop and coffee lounge for food, a children’s play area, plus a few activities such as archery and a zipwire on offer.
The park is set within the North Moors National Park and is close to the quaint market town of Pickering, where you can hop on the North Yorkshire Moors Railway or explore the ruins of a medieval castle. Or you could just simply enjoy the peace and quiet of this part of England.
Plassey Holiday Park, North Wales – from £945
Within 250 acres of park and woodland in the Dee Valley, you’ll find Plassey Holiday Park, Retail Village and Golf Course, an impressive luxury holiday park with plenty of indoor and outdoor fun. Half-term breaks start at £945 for a two-bedroom studio lodge, which offers modern, open-plan accommodation and includes an outdoor hot tub. These lodges can be booked via Hoseasons, which also offer options such as upmarket safari tents.
The complex includes a large indoor pool, retail village with unique shops and boutiques, a 9-hole golf course, fishing ponds, and walking trails through surrounding farmland. Guests can play badminton or table tennis, enjoy the lively entertainment schedule, or explore the countryside around Wrexham, such as the vast National Trust – Erddig manor house.
Billing Aquadrome Holiday Park, Northamptonshire – from £559
If you’re looking for a half-term packed with activities from axe-throwing to slime-making, then Billing Aquadrome may be the park for you. Lots of activities are included in your holiday price, and there is also a range of extras you can add to your booking if you are a family who likes to always be on the move.
Included in your break are activities such as fitness classes, immersive adventures for kids, live stage shows and family games. There’s an indoor swimming pool, outdoor splash park, soft play, and fishing lakes within the park’s grounds. Once you’ve booked your break, you can also add on extras such as sessions on the lake’s inflatable aqua park, alpaca feeding, or even survival skills courses.
A stay in a three-bedroom Bronze caravan costs £559 for a midweek half-term holiday, but the park offers lots of accommodation options, such as the riverfront Brook glamping pod or Platinum caravans with decking and hot tubs.
Landal Kenwick Woods, Lincolnshire – from £579
Despite having 24 parks across the UK, Dutch holiday park brand Landal Greenparks isn’t as well-known here as it is on the continent. Its parks focus on enjoying nature, outdoor activities, and cosy accommodation, and are worth a visit if you’re looking for a family break. At Landal Kenwick Woods, you can enjoy a four-night half-term break in May for £579 if you stay in one of its wooden six-person lodges, which have three bedrooms and a classic cosy cabin interior. You can book online on Landal’s website.
Kenwick Woods has a heated indoor pool with a hydrotherapy section, spa and thermal suite, 18-hole golf course, and gym alongside a café and restaurant. Outside, it’s in a great location for exploring Lincolnshire Wolds, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty known for its chalk hills, valleys, and miles of unspoilt greenery.
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