neighbourhoods

“DON’T go cheating!” the bartender tells me after I sloshed a bit too much vodka in the cocktail mixer.

He was right — my pisco sour ends up being more punchy than I’d planned.

I’m not sure I’ll be working as a bartender in Lima any time soon.

Thankfully the city has more than enough of them, with the Peruvian capital often named a top food and drink destination.

The place may be nicknamed Lima La Gris (from the large grey clouds that frequent the sky) but the city is certainly colourful when it comes to both gastronomy and architecture.

One of its brightest districts is the vibrant and noisy Barranco.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

Often referred to as among the world’s coolest neighbourhoods, the bohemian area is popular with surfers heading to the beach and art lovers adding to the hundreds of muralled walls.

Walking down the street is a feast for the eyes with men playing guitars outside multi-coloured houses, while cyclists zoom past with wetsuits on.

With more than 200 pieces of artwork across the neighbourhood, it feels more like an open-air art gallery.

And the city is fast making a name for itself when it comes to food, with many award-winning restaurants also found here.

One of those is Mayta, a World’s 50 Best Restaurants winner in Miraflores, made up of structured wood and concrete blocks.

While the seven-course tasting menu was tempting, I didn’t have four hours to kill, so opted for the à la carte.

I started with the fresh and zingy limey ceviche before I filled up on their take on paella with a crispy rice parcel surrounding shrimp.

For something a little more ­wallet-friendly, in the ­Miraflores neighbourhood, I found Parque Kennedy, known for its huge number of street vendors selling cheap snacks.

For around a fiver, my hands were quickly filled with herbal “emoliente” drinks that stave off hangovers, picarones (sweet doughnuts made of squash) with honey and chicharron pork sandwiches.

Peruvians love massive portions, I soon found out. And I was told that the best way to work off all the food would be to hit the waves, of course.

But with my surf skills lacking, I instead opted for a bike tour of the city, taking in the spectacular coastline, as well as the famous Love Park.

Inspired by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi, sculptor ­Víctor Delfín built a wall of tiles, surrounding the famous El Beso sculpture of couples embracing.

Peru’s huge exports of coffee and chocolate mean you can barely walk five minutes without spotting a chocolataria.

As a self-professed choc expert, I was extremely smug after one cocoa class, naming all of the regions I tasted correctly.

A few hours away, Peru’s tiny second city of Arequipa, in the shade of the Misti volcano, is even more overlooked than Lima, yet the food is just as incredible.

My favourite way to spend the morning was jogging in the main central square, watching the sunrise over the Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa.

That running was preparing my body for yet more fantastic restaurants.

There was the vibey 13 Monjas (13monjas.com), with huge portions of Peruvian inspired pasta and Chica (chicha.com.pe) with yet more huge portions of fish tacos.

Yet there was one thing missing from my trip to Peru so far — and that was a cuddle with a llama.

Leaving the cosmopolitan cities, I went in search of the fluffy animals through the Colca Canyon region.

We sped through arid deserts, barely seeing a soul, bar a few locals by an abandoned train track.

Ears popped as we climbed the mountains across Lord Of The Rings-esque epic landscapes.

I was warned to expect some altitude sickness and I was certainly unsteady on my feet as we hit 4,900 metres.

It’s a few hours into my journey that I gasp as I finally see them — a traffic jam of wild llamas and alpacas.

Lazily grazing on the side of the road like oversized sheep, they seemed non-plussed as they sauntered over the road in front of us.

But just seeing them wasn’t enough for me. I wanted to get up close and personal.

Our abode for the night was in the village of Sibayo with a local family who had lived in the area for generations.

It was here that we were joined by a farmer, who excitingly told us we would be going on a llama walk.

It was only as we got up close that I realised quite how tall they were, some towering over my mere 5ft 5in height.

But my excitement never dwindled.

We walked across the beautiful river as they followed me like I was their leader.

I couldn’t resist a ruffle of their heads, with their ears cutely flipping up whenever we stopped.

Returning to our lodges, the evening was spent learning how to knit and dance.

The warm hospitality was evident throughout the stay, with free bracelets and shots of alcohol while listening to music and even a hot breakfast bag before leaving.

By the end of our stay, there were hugs all around, with our guide telling us how he always feels sad saying goodbye to tourists.

A feeling that is mutual it seems from the full guestbook of goodbyes.

I wasn’t ready to return to cold England that’s for sure – but a bag full of local coffee and alpaca socks certainly helped.

An ideal space for a flaneur in Berlin

When friends came to visit while I was studying in Berlin or I wanted to flaneur through the city, I would go to Maybachufer, a neighbourhood in the Neukölln district. Wander from U-Bahn station Kottbusser Tor in the direction of the Landwehrkanal and peruse the multicultural market taking place Tuesdays and Fridays. You can also attempt to haggle in your best German at the fortnightly Sunday flea market. Useful phrase: das ist zu teuer für mich (that’s too expensive for me). Stop for a bite to eat (or an Aperol spritz) alfresco at buzzing La Maison and spend the afternoon sat by the canal next to the Admiralbrücke historic wrought iron bridge, or at the nearby independent cinema Moviemento, which shows a wide variety of English-subtitled films. End the day with a döner kebap from one of the many takeaways or restaurants nearby and a trip to one (or more) of the local bars: Multilayerladen for its laid-back, homely aesthetic or Soulcat Music Bar for 50s and 60s music on vinyl.
Kitty

A Glaswegian neighbourhood ‘packed with hidden gems’

The Gorbals is an often overlooked neighbourhood in Glasgow but has a fascinating history and is packed with hidden gems. The Southern Necropolis is a must visit – it’s lovingly preserved by dedicated volunteers and celebrates the lives of ordinary local people alongside the likes of celebrated 19th-century architect Alexander “Greek” Thompson. No two streets are the same, with many buildings incorporating artwork such as The Gatekeeper, one of the UK’s few permanent suspended public sculptures, as well as murals of local legends and award-winning architecture. Keep your eyes peeled for seals (and even otters) by the river, before heading to the Pig and Whistle’s hidden beer garden. End the day at the iconic Citizens theatre, where a beautiful Victorian auditorium and the UK’s oldest surviving stage equipment have been restored, showcasing the biggest names in comedy and theatre alongside community productions. One of the best ways to see the neighbourhood is to take a Women of the Gorbals Heritage walk.
Esther

Head out of Porto to the seaside

To get to Foz do Douro from Porto it’s a quick journey on a tram from the riverside. The tram follows the beautiful River Douro, and you end up at the delightful seafront. There are sandy beaches, a 17th-century fort and a pleasant, shaded park. You can enjoy a stroll out to a picture-book lighthouse that sticks out into the Atlantic too. It is so close to the city, but allows you to melt into an entirely distinct, relaxed world.
Alexander

A peaceful corner of Rome

My favourite discovery in Rome lay just beyond the historical centre in the Coppedè district. Named after its architect, Gino Coppedè, who built it between about 1915 and 1927, the area is a curious fusion of styles, all blended in a way that feels almost Gaudí-esque. It’s easily reached by tram or bus, and it really lends itself well to slow exploration. Spend a morning wandering its quiet streets, admiring whimsical houses, ornate palazzos and fountains, before arriving at the beautiful Piazza Mincio. It’s a peaceful corner hiding right under our noses.
Michael

Slovenian counterculture in Ljubljana

Nestled just north of Ljubljana’s postcard-pretty centre, Metelkova, a former military barracks, has found a new lease of life as the heart of Slovenian street art and counterculture. By day, you can wander past graffiti-clad buildings, artists’ studios and small galleries; by night, explore quirky bars and a welcoming, laid-back crowd. The antithesis of the rest of Slovenia’s more polished, traditionally beautiful capital, it’s an ideal place to people watch and experience the raw, vibrant soul of the underground culture. It’s exactly the sort of place you stumble into by mistake and end up staying all afternoon.
Michael Kuipers

Grand villas and nostalgia in Zagreb

I lived close to the Tuškanac neighbourhood while studying in Zagreb. Slip off a street called Ilica – the artery running east to west – and you’re suddenly on quiet, leafy slopes between Britanski trg (British Square) and Gornji Grad (Upper Town), oddly calm for somewhere so close to the centre. Grand villas sit alongside crumbling houses, half-hidden in the trees. Sundays meant a wander round Britanski trg – antiques, trinkets, and a sense of Jugonostalgia (nostalgia for Yugoslavia) I have absolutely no real claim to. Or a mali macchiato before a long walk uphill, passing Kino Tuškanac and its outdoor cinema.
Louis Tomlinson

Haarlem shuttle

Although it may be a prosaic observation, the public transport in the Netherlands really is fantastic. That’s how we found ourselves taking a 15-minute train ride to Haarlem while on a short break in Amsterdam. The centuries-old cobblestone streets, picture perfect canals and cafe-ringed squares were as lovely as you’d expect but my highlight was a tour of De Adriaan windmill. Run by enthusiasts, and half the price of some of the big-hitting museums, the guide gave a condensed social history of the Netherlands through the lens of a cultural icon.
Jane Thomas

The best Brussels neighbourhood

Ixelles in Brussels has everything that makes a neighbourhood fun: characterful backstreets to wander through; friendly bars; multicultural restaurants; plentiful green space; and interesting architecture from many periods including the newly restored, art nouveau Maison Hannon. But better than all this, it is a genuine community where people look out for each other and are welcoming to visitors. I am looking forward to visiting next year for the long-awaited reopening of the Ixelles Museum (currently scheduled for 19 March 2027). It’s worth a detour.
Noelle

Culture and leafy walks in Cologne

Away from Cologne’s soaring Dom cathedral, the Belgisches Viertel (Belgian quarter) is an oasis of leafy streets and parks, just a short walk from the majestic Rhine. Stroll along avenues lined with art nouveau mansion blocks, pick up an art book at one of the many independent design boutiques, including Siebter Himmel, browse unique finds at vintage store Sevenues and eat vegetarian plates at the uber-cool Hallmackenreuther on Brüsseler Platz. In summer months, locals pack out bars along Aachener Straße for kölsch beer and cocktails, and in winter the Stadtgarten hosts an alternative arts Christmas fair, while park venue Jaki stages experimental theatre and club nights.
Sophie

Winning tip: like being in a Strindberg play, Stockholm

Away from the centre of Stockholm where cruise ships drop large groups of passengers, try a stroll around the lovely area of Birkastan. I got off at the Sankt Eriksplan metro and immediately felt as if I was in an early 20th-century August Strindberg play as I explored cobbled streets with wooden houses and churches everywhere I turned. It’s a peaceful place where fika breaks (coffee and cakes) last longer and locals threw welcoming smiles at me as I browsed vintage clothes and record shops. The Rörstrandsgatan is its culinary centre and full of cosy cafes and cool restaurants serving cheap, filling soups with homemade bread – a perfect place to spend a winter’s day in Stockholm. Don’t miss the nearby Karlberg Palace and the wonderful walks in the area. Hire a bicycle to really get into the vibe of the district.
Helen