neighbour

I stayed in colourful UK city often overlooked because of its famous neighbour

I visited a unique British city which has plenty of character, a liberal vibe and a thriving art scene, but it’s often overshadowed by its posher neighbour

Britain boasts numerous cities waiting to be explored, and it’s remarkable how distinctive each one is, moulded by its heritage, residents, and surrounding terrain. I recently returned to a British city I’ve visited before, and whilst much has evolved in this vibrant metropolis over the years, it frequently gets overlooked because of its more celebrated neighbour.

I’ve been travelling to Bristol for several decades now, and the city conjures up warm memories of the Lakota nightclub from the late 1990s – the night spot is still open.

This urban centre has always possessed a rebellious “soul” with an independent spirit – and in recent years, the Green Party have effectively assumed complete control of Bristol City Council. During my visit to the city, I was struck by how spotless it was in the shopping area – and also how welcoming locals were.

As with everywhere else I’ve travelled to recently, there appears to be substantial construction underway in Bristol as the need for new housing continues to surge, but the city also boasts some striking, well-maintained period buildings.

I observed that many of the historic structures in Bristol were constructed from the same stone as those in the neighbouring city of Bath – and Bristol is frequently overshadowed when compared to the more conventionally picturesque city of Bath.

Nevertheless, Bristol possesses its own distinctive appeal and a progressive atmosphere, the city has a multicultural population alongside a flourishing arts culture, as well as some excellent retail and culinary destinations.

Bristol’s historic structures, constructed from a honey-hued limestone (referred to as Bath stone), contrast strikingly with the contemporary cityscape, whilst numerous modern buildings in Bristol have been decorated in vibrant colours, enhancing its distinctive charm.

A trip to Bristol can often prove more budget-friendly than Bath, and the city boasts excellent transport connections including a train service to London taking merely one hour and 30 minutes.

During my visit to Bristol I was accommodated at the Clayton Hotel on Broad Street, this four-star establishment occupies what was formerly a historic printworks location – with the structure dating back to approximately 1900.

The hotel’s striking Art Nouveau facade was created by William James Neatby, who served as the principal designer at Royal Doulton throughout the late 1800s to the early 1900s.

Broad Street itself proved fascinating, as upon exiting the hotel and glancing right, positioned just at the street’s end stood an ancient church, St Johns, which I’ve since learnt originates from medieval times and sits within the original city walls.

Visitors can pass through an archway of St Johns church (Nelson Street) to reach a main thoroughfare and considerably newer section of the city, creating the genuine sensation of travelling back in time; this district comprises Bristol’s old town.

Stumbling upon remnants of Bristol’s historic quarters is captivating, and nestled within the charming Castle Park in the city stands another church (St Peter’s) which traces its origins to the 11th century, encircled by a Physic Garden – and spending time here allows you to envision the lives that once unfolded in centuries past.

Today, Bristol city centre sits just 30 minutes from Bristol Airport with regular buses and coaches ferrying passengers back and forth – and there are rail connections or coaches to South West locations including Cornwall or Devon.

Many people mistakenly believe that Bristol sits within Somerset, but the city and its surrounding areas are actually an independent county corporate, established as far back as 1373, with a present-day unitary authority council.

The About Bristol website put it clearly: “Bristol is the largest city in the south west of England, with a population of approximately half a million.

“The city lies between Somerset and Gloucestershire and has been politically administered by both counties in part at various times. However, Bristol is historically a county in its own right and is properly entitled the City and County of Bristol.”

So what makes Bristol “better” than Bath, well there’s the Banksy claim to fame and the Banksy trail – and I’ve encountered a couple of these iconic works on previous trips.

Then there’s the nightlife. During this visit I attended an experimental gig at Strange Brew and the vibe was edgy yet inviting (that encapsulates Bristol perfectly I’d say).

Bath is undeniably a beautiful city to explore, but it exudes an air of affluence, whereas Bristol, rich in its own history, has a more down-to-earth vibe – and there are far fewer tourists to navigate around.

Indeed, Bristol made headlines in 2020 when a historical contentious bronze statue of Bristol-born slave trader Edward Colston was defaced and toppled during an anti-racism protest nearly six years ago – and this certainly raised some eyebrows at the time.

Those involved were making a stand and delivering a significant message, despite many labelling the statue’s toppling as vandalism at the time.

This act by protesters will also be etched in history as those responsible spotlighted Colston’s involvement in the Atlantic slave trade, in a manner that brought it to the attention of a wider audience – and I believe Bristol will always possess a rebellious spirit, it’s simply the nature of the city.

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Historic medieval ruins with incredible carvings overlooked for famous neighbour

This medieval abbey boasts spectacular 13th-century stone carvings of knights and saints, but many tourists miss this national monument in favour of the Rock of Cashel

While the Rock of Cashel looms majestically over Tipperary, attracting history lovers from far and wide, few realise an equally captivating ruin awaits discovery in a neighbouring county.

Stretching back to the 12th century, this monastic ruin in Kilkenny is truly remarkable. A classic mediaeval Cistercian abbey in Ireland, Jerpoint Abbey deserves far more attention than it receives, offering a compelling glimpse into the nation’s heritage through its stunning sculptures.

Jerpoint’s reputation stems from its collection of stone carvings, scattered throughout the monastery grounds. These artistic treasures date back to the 13th century, depicting knights, mensa tombs, and various other memorials.

Today, the ruins hold official national monument status and have been under the stewardship of the Office of Public Works since 1880. Their efforts to preserve the structure and enable visitors to immerse themselves in this slice of Irish history are clearly appreciated by those who make the journey.

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One visitor recounted their experience on TripAdvisor, writing: “Visited here today and was so impressed with the history of the Abbey. The staff were extremely helpful in explaining the carvings and building styles and helping us to visualise the time period of that time. Highly recommend.”

The Monastery

For architecture aficionados, Jerpoint Abbey is an essential destination, as it’s believed to showcase the evolution from Romanesque to Gothic architectural styles – incorporating elements of both.

While the tower and cloister originate from the 15th century, the church itself was constructed during the 12th century.

A standout feature of these stunning ruins is the 15th-century cloister arcade, which boasts numerous stone carvings. The stonework depicts saints, creatures and religious personalities, including one portrayal of St Anthony with a pig beneath him.

The remarkably preserved medieval artistry extends beyond this, however. The south wall contains a cupboard alongside a collection of traditional stone seating adorned with chevron patterns.

What previously served as administrative chambers on the east range now functions as an exhibition space displaying various stone sculptures.

Perhaps the most captivating feature on site, though, are the tombs located in the abbey’s northern section, crafted by the renowned O’Tunneys of Callan.

When exploring Jerpoint, numerous visitors choose the guided tour option, which they’ve praised for helping to “bring the Abbey to life”, with countless glowing five-star reviews for the experience. Many have characterised their tours as “brilliant”, whilst others describe them as “informative” and suggest taking one to fully appreciate the historical context and understand precisely what you’re observing.

Access

During winter months, Jerpoint Abbey closes its doors but is scheduled to welcome visitors again in March. Once reopened, there’s a modest admission charge.

At present, adults pay €5.00, youngsters €3.00, senior citizens €4.00, and a complete family ticket costs €13.00.

The site offers on-site parking, secure bicycle storage, and has been designed to be fully wheelchair accessible, making it suitable for pushchairs too.

At the adjacent visitor centre, youngsters can pick up a treasure hunt activity that enables them to investigate the ruins and uncover all the creatures and saints hidden within its ancient walls.

To locate this captivating destination, you’ll need to head 2.5km south west of Thomastown. It’s positioned just off the R448 and can be found by following signposts for Thomastown.

Nearby history

If that’s insufficient to satisfy your curiosity, there’s additional history to absorb in the vicinity, with Grennan Castle practically on the doorstep.

In Thomastown, Kilkenny, stands this 12th-century castle positioned along the River Nore’s banks, and whilst it doesn’t provide as much detailed information, it certainly makes for an intriguing additional site to explore.

One visitor commented: “Plenty of parking, hardly anyone visits, many picnic tables and an excellent view, as we cannot get enough of old stuff, especially castles. The attraction is not life-changing, however, it is worth a visit.”

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