Morocco

Thousands of Moroccans filled the streets of Rabat singing and waving flags after the UN Security Council adopted a resolution describing autonomy for Western Sahara under Moroccan sovereignty as the most feasible solution to the decades-long territorial dispute. The US-drafted text provides international endorsement of Morocco in its dispute with the Algeria-backed Polisario Front.

FIFA confirms change of name to Afghan Women United, dropping ‘refugee’ from the team name ahead of the tournament.

A FIFA-organised tournament involving the Afghanistan women’s refugee team has been moved from the United Arab Emirates to Morocco, the world football governing body said, with the four-team friendly competition set to begin on Sunday.

The “FIFA Unites: Women’s Series” tournament, originally scheduled to run from October 23-29 in Dubai, also features the national women’s teams of the UAE, Chad and Libya.

The Afghanistan women’s refugee team’s creation stems from the Taliban’s ban on women’s sports following their takeover of Afghanistan in 2021, prompting players to flee the country, fearing persecution.

“FIFA would like to thank the Royal Moroccan Football Federation (FMRF) and looks forward to working together to host a successful tournament,” FIFA said in a statement.

The governing body also confirmed that the Afghanistan women’s refugee team has chosen a new official name, “Afghan Women United,” following consultation with FIFA.

Prior to the Taliban’s takeover, Afghanistan had 25 women players under contract, most of whom now live in Australia. Afghanistan’s men’s team continues as normal.

Spain argues NATO funding should address real threats, not arbitrary targets, amidst Trump’s tariff retaliation plans.

The European Commission and Spain’s government have dismissed US President Donald Trump’s latest threat to impose higher tariffs on Madrid over its refusal to meet his proposed NATO target for defence spending.

Trump said on Tuesday that he was “very unhappy” with Spain for being the only NATO member to reject the new spending objective of 5 percent of economic output, adding that he was considering punishing the Mediterranean country.

“I was thinking of giving them trade punishment through tariffs because of what they did, and I think I may do that,” Trump added. He had previously suggested making Spain “pay twice as much” in trade talks.

Trade policy falls under the remit of Brussels, and the European Commission would “respond appropriately, as we always do, to any measures taken against one or more of our member states”, commission spokesperson Olof Gill said in a press briefing on Wednesday.

The trade deal between the European Union and the United States signed in July was the right platform to address any issues, Gill added.

“The defence spending debate is not about increasing spending for the sake of increasing it, but about responding to real threats,” Spain’s Economy and Trade Ministry said in a statement.

“We’re doing our part to develop the necessary capabilities and contribute to the collective defence of our allies.”

Spain has more than doubled nominal defence spending from 0.98 percent of gross domestic product in 2017 to 2 percent this year, equivalent to about 32.7bn euros ($38bn).

Defence Minister Margarita Robles said allies weren’t discussing the 5 percent target for 2035 in Wednesday’s meeting because they were prioritising the present situation in Ukraine, but wouldn’t completely rule out a shift in Spain’s position.

Targeted tariffs by the US against individual EU member states are rare, but there are precedents, said Ignacio Garcia Bercero, a senior fellow at the Brussels-based economic think tank Bruegel.

In 1999, the US hit the EU with 100 percent punitive tariffs on products such as chocolate, pork, onions and truffles in retaliation for an EU import ban on hormone-treated beef. But those tariffs excluded Britain, which at the time was still a member of the trade bloc.

The US could impose anti-dumping penalties on European products that are mostly produced in Spain, said Juan Carlos Martinez Lazaro, professor at Madrid’s IE business school.

In 2018, Washington imposed a combination of duties of more than 30 percent on Spanish black table olives at the request of Californian olive growers. Spain’s share of the US market plummeted from 49 percent in 2017 to 19 percent in 2024.

Another option would be moving the naval and air bases the US has in southern Spain to Morocco – an idea floated by former Trump official Robert Greenway – which would damage the local economies through the loss of thousands of indirect jobs.

Hundreds of thousands across Europe and the Middle East marched against Israel’s ongoing genocide in Gaza.

Hundreds of thousands of people have poured onto the streets across Europe, demanding an end to Israel’s two-year war on Gaza that has killed more than 67,000 Palestinians and left the enclave on the brink of famine.

The largest protest took place in the Netherlands, where around 250,000 people filled Amsterdam’s Museum Square on Sunday before marching through the city centre. Draped in Palestinian flags and dressed in red, demonstrators demanded that their government take a harder line against Israel and stop arms exports to the occupying power.

“The bloodshed must stop – and that we unfortunately have to stand here because we have such an incredibly weak government that doesn’t dare to draw a red line. That’s why we are here, in the hope that it helps,” said protester Marieke van Zijl, the Associated Press reported.

The protest came less than a month before national elections, adding pressure on Dutch leaders who have long backed Israel. Foreign Minister David van Weel said on Friday that it was “unlikely” the government would approve the export of F-35 fighter jet parts to Israel amid mounting public anger.

Amnesty International, one of the protest organisers, urged European governments to act decisively. “All economic and diplomatic means must be used to increase pressure on Israel,” said spokesperson Marjon Rozema.

‘Gaza is the biggest graveyard of children’

While the Netherlands saw the biggest turnout in Western Europe, Turkiye hosted one of the most striking shows of solidarity.

In Istanbul, vast crowds marched from the Hagia Sophia mosque to the banks of the Golden Horn, where boats decorated with Turkish and Palestinian flags awaited them.

Demonstrators, many fresh from midday prayers at the mosque, called for Muslim unity in confronting Israel’s assault.

In Ankara, protesters waved flags and held banners denouncing Israel’s actions. “This oppression, which began in 1948, has been continuing for two years, turning into genocide,” said Recep Karabal of the Palestine Support Platform in the northern city of Kirikkale.

Support for Palestine runs deep in Turkiye, where President Recep Tayyip Erdogan has emerged as one of Israel’s fiercest critics, accusing Tel Aviv of committing war crimes in Gaza.

On Saturday, Turkish journalist and Gaza Sumud Flotilla participant Ersin Celik told local media outlets he witnessed Israeli forces “torture Greta Thunberg”, describing how the Swedish activist was “dragged on the ground” and “forced to kiss the Israeli flag”.

Similar rallies were held across the region. In Sofia, Bulgarians carried placards reading “Gaza: Starvation is a Weapon of War” and “Gaza is the Biggest Graveyard of Children”. Protester Valya Chalamova said, “Our society – and the world – needs to hear that we stand with the Palestinian people.”

In Morocco’s capital Rabat, crowds burned an Israeli flag and called on their government to reverse its 2020 decision to normalise ties with Israel. Protesters also demanded the release of Moroccan human rights defender Aziz Ghali, detained by Israel after joining the flotilla aiming to break the blockade on Gaza.

Across Spain, smaller rallies followed massive demonstrations in Madrid, Rome, and Barcelona a day earlier, with marchers carrying white bundles symbolising the bodies of Gaza’s children.

Hamas said it had accepted parts of a ceasefire plan proposed by US President Donald Trump, though much of Gaza remains in ruins and under siege.

Thousands of migrants from sub-Saharan Africa wait near the coast in Tunisia for an opportunity to make the treacherous voyage across the Mediterranean. Under an agreement signed with the European Union, the Tunisian government does what it can to stop them. NGOs and migrants accuse the Tunisian coastguard of deliberately sinking migrant boats at sea, leaving those on board to drown. Others say migrants are regularly bused out to the desert and abandoned. We investigate these allegations and meet the humans caught in the crossfire of a political battle over migration.

Police vehicles were filmed ramming into protesters as anti-government demonstrations escalated in Morocco on Tuesday. Officials said police were attempting to disperse ‘violent and unauthorised crowds.’

Moroccan authorities have arrested more than 400 people during violent protests demanding reforms in the public health and education sectors, the Ministry of Interior says.

A fifth night of youth protests was under way on Wednesday in cities across the North African country, but authorities said the fourth night had turned more violent than before. They reported 263 members of the security forces and 23 civilians were injured as demonstrators torched cars and ransacked shops.

The demonstrations have been organised online by a loosely formed, anonymous youth group calling itself GenZ 212, using platforms including TikTok, Instagram and the gaming application Discord.

On Tuesday night, young men brandished knives and threw Molotov cocktails and stones, an Interior Ministry spokesperson said in a statement. He said 409 people were taken into police custody.

Administrative buildings, banks and shops were looted or vandalised in the Souss region cities of Ait Amira, Inezgane, Agadir and Tiznit as well as the eastern city of Oujda, he said.

Videos circulating on social media and verified by Al Jazeera showed damaged ATM machines and a bank building that appeared to have been looted with broken glass scattered across the ground.

In posts discussing the protests, the GenZ 212 group said it rejected violence and was committed to continuing peaceful protests. It said it had no argument with security forces, only with the government.

The Interior Ministry statement said 142 vehicles belonging to the security forces and 20 private cars had been set on fire.

Peaceful protests over economic and social conditions have been recurrent in Morocco, but this week’s demonstrations are the most violent since at least 2016 and 2017 when protesters clashed with security forces in the Rif region in the north.

The Interior Ministry will uphold the right to protest in accordance with legal procedures and will respond with “restraint and self-control, avoiding provocation”, the spokesperson said.

The Scotland women’s national team play most home games at Hampden Park but have also used Tannadice and Easter Road of late.

Andreatta’s reign as head coach began with a narrow home defeat by Austria, which confirmed relegation back to League B, but her second game was an impressive draw away to the Netherlands.

The Scots will view the October and November friendly windows as preparation for next year’s World Cup qualification campaign, which begins in February.

Scotland have failed to qualify for the past three major tournaments, most recently missing out on this summer’s Euros following a play-off defeat by Finland last December.

Shortly after that loss, Pedro Martinez Losa left his job as head coach and Andreatta was appointed in April.

Puglia, Italy

The summer has left the water deliciously warm. We paddle into sea caves as stunning as cathedrals

The huge Pizzomunno rock, in the Puglian town of Vieste, feels warm from the September sun as I gaze southwards, watching Castello beach shrug off the weight of high summer. There are a few people in the water or lying on the sand, but the sunbeds and umbrellas have started disappearing, and this two-mile stretch of pale sand is getting back to its unspoilt self.

The 25-metre Pizzomunno sea stack was once, according to legend, a handsome fisherman of the same name, who would meet his sweetheart Cristalda on this spot. Unfortunately, the local mermaids fancied the pants off him too, and in their jealousy dragged Cristalda to a watery death, leaving Pizzomunno petrified by grief.

The ill-fated pair are said to come alive again once every 100 years on 15 August, but if they do so any summer soon, they’ll struggle to find a quiet spot for their tryst. For two or three weeks every August, Vieste – with its old town on a high promontory, its narrow streets and archways, and its newly restored romanesque cathedral – is a magnet for (mainly Italian) holidaymakers. The town receives 80% of its annual two million visits in the space of less than a month. By the time of the Settimana dell’Olio olive oil festival in late August, Vieste is noticeably quieter, and in September peace returns.

We’re staying 25 miles to the south in the small town of Mattinata. Here, about a mile from the coast, it’s “tranquil even in August”, a local tells us. Agriturismo Giorgio (doubles from €59 B&B in low season – 16 September to 31 October) stands on its western edge, walking distance from great restaurants such as Locanda del Maniscalco.

Temperatures climb to 28C most days, and the summer’s heat has left the sea deliciously warm. On our first full day, we drive 10 minutes to Mattinatella beach, where we’ve rented a transparent canoe from local operator Dove Andiamo Sul Gargano (full day €60). We are aiming for Baia delle Zagare (Citrus Blossom Bay), a couple of miles up the coast, but it takes us half the day to get there because we stop to paddle into sea caves as stunning as cathedrals, and picnic on an otherwise inaccessible little beach. The bay itself is famous for its sea stacks, one called “the scissors” for its curious shape, eroded by sea and wind.

This south side of the peninsula is sheltered from any northerly winds, so perfect in autumn. Another day, we swim out from Baia di San Felice to admire the natural sea arch that guards it, and particularly enjoy a trip on hired ebikes (half-day €30) to view these white beaches from the clifftop Sentiero dell’Amore.

The other advantage of early autumn in the Gargano is that it is, paradoxically, a livelier period. The hard graft of summer done, locals prepare to party. Every September Vieste in Love expands on the tale of Pizzomunno and Cristalda, hosting free shows, concerts and children’s events across the historic centre. Mattinata celebrates its patron saint in mid-September with so many parades, concerts, magic shows and fireworks we catch just a fraction of what’s on. And that’s before it goes really mad with its October olive harvest festival.

September is also busy in Unesco-listed Monte Sant’Angelo, whose Archangel Michael festival on 29 September attracts pilgrims from all over the world. The fun bit is a torchlit reenactment the Sunday before, with splendidly costumed angels, archers, bishops and even God himself giving their all in the main square.

Later in the autumn there’s leaf-peeping in the Foresta Umbra a few miles inland. Fast forward to spring in the Gargano and you’ll be rewarded with one of Europe’s highest concentrations of wild orchids, plus more festivals – one celebrating rosé wine in Vieste, for example. Which makes it all the more strange that everyone crowds here in August.
Liz Boulter

Alentejo, Portugal

It’s hard to beat as a base for catching late-summer sun – you may have a pristine beach to yourself

The “queen of fado”, Amália Rodrigues, said Portugal’s melancholic, passionate ballads “came from the sea, the vast sea in front of us”. No surprise, then, in the 1960s, that Amália chose an Alentejo clifftop overlooking the Atlantic to build a creative retreat.

Small waves of artists and sun-seekers arrived in the 70s and 80s, and this south-western coastline continues to attract those looking for a different life; incomers who live side-by-side with locals whose families have been there for centuries, united by the rhythm of the land and the sea. The peaceful, slow ways of rural Portuguese life contrast with the raw natural landscape, and the best part is that it is still blissfully undeveloped.

Take a look at a map and you’ll notice an absence of cities or large towns in this corner of Portugal. The main motorway south from Lisbon heads deep inland, before continuing down to Faro. Even the national roads steer away from the coast. There’s no fast way to reach Alentejo, and when you do, you’ll find time slows down.

Odeceixe (pronounced “oh-deh-shay-sh”) is hard to beat as a base for soaking up late-summer sun. On its beach, black cliffs rise on both sides, the Algarve to the south, the Alentejo to the north. The large, golden beach is a tale of two halves, with the clear, shallow waters of the river ideal for paddleboarding and kayaking, and the sea offering consistently good waves for all surfing levels. Water Element offers surf classes year round, plus hire of surfboards, bodyboards, canoes, kayaks, as well as umbrellas, sunloungers and a massage area.

Those in the know return to Bar da Praia, year after year, in a hidden-away spot (tip: follow the blue umbrellas) perched above the beach at Odeceixe with fabulous views. For 12 years it has been delivering a menu of classics such as Amêijoas á bulhão Pato (clams in garlic, coriander, white wine and lemon).

The village of Odeceixe is two miles from the beach and has a life of its own. Social life moves to the village square after the sun goes down and its bakeries and cafes open early. The village is made up of small houses painted white with coloured borders around the windows and doors. There’s a working Iberian windmill, painted in white and Alentejo blue, with views of the River Seixe snaking through a flat valley to the Atlantic.

With the intense summer heat subsiding, the temperature is ideal for daily walks on the Rota Vicentina – a network of trails taking in nature and historical villages, with inland and coastal routes. Once used only by locals to access secluded beaches and fishing spots, the single-track Fisherman’s Trail is now a well-marked route. There are also 24 circular routes covering more than 155 miles, and some shorter out-and-back stretches ideal for combining with an afternoon on the beach. In late summer, it’s not unusual to have a pristine beach to yourself.

For those looking to pick up the pace, Adventure Riding offers horseback tours for all levels along clifftops and through the countryside (as of 2025, beach rides are no longer permitted in the nature park), including at sunset and in the moonlight.

Tucked away are special places celebrating a simpler way of life, far from big cities and mass tourism. The pair behind Casa Ateliê, Samer Haidar and Lisa Müller, offer pottery workshops and Lebanese food at their bed and breakfast in a village setting to the north of Odeceixe – well positioned for exploring Zambujeira do Mar, Vila Nova de Milfontes and Almograve.

Italian Filippo Pozzi arrived in the area with classical winemaking experience in south-west France and California’s Napa Valley. He set out to restore neglected parcels of land and is producing “unconventional” single vineyard wines. On top of a small hill, surrounded by olive trees, vineyards and cork oaks, Atlas Land quinta (from €100 a night, room-only) is bathed in sunlight from dawn to dusk. There are two double rooms and wine-tasting sessions can be arranged. The nearest town is Aljezur, with ruins of a 10th-century castle and a Moorish village.

Inland from Odeceixe is Monte West Coast (from €104 B&B, two-night minimum), a collection of restored rustic buildings on a farm, with a saltwater pool, kitchen gardens, orchards, and tables and chairs dotted about the wild grass meadows.
Emma Balch

Corsica

I wander deeper into the maze of alleyways where restaurants spill out and diners clink glasses

It’s not just summer that clings on in southern Corsica, so too does the precipitous citadel that hangs on the cliff edge in Bonifacio. It’s a wonder that the walls haven’t tumbled into the Mediterranean in the intervening millennium, but this jumble of terracotta-roofed homes and shops stands proud atop 70-metre-tall white limestone cliffs, on a narrow promontory, to create one of Corsica’s most impressive sights.

It’s a hot Saturday afternoon when I arrive and the narrow, shaded streets within the old town offer a welcome relief. After checking into the Hotel Le Royal (doubles from €76 room-only), a bright, modern hotel, I wander deeper into the maze of alleys where restaurant terraces spill out on to the street and cheerful diners clink glasses. It isn’t long before I’ve reached what feels like the summit, but to get a better view I need to climb up the steps on the citadel walls.

From the corner of Rue des Bocche, the view is spectacular: the inner harbour below and a jagged coast that zigzags into the distance, framed by a hazy backdrop of mountains. A few steps away on Rue du Palais, an enticing bar, L’Assaghju, is serving aperitifs, including the owner’s homemade chestnut liqueur, a sweet and moreish tipple I sip from a stool in the cool stone arches of the bar. She tells me about other liqueurs she’s created from the island’s many signature products, such as clementines. “Have you tried the local wine?” she asks, pouring me a glass of the muscat pétillant, a delicately sweet and gentle sparkling white.

I make my way back to the hotel’s restaurant feeling a little tipsy, gazing at the towering palm trees in the Place Carrega and peering into the ladder-like stairways of the imposing buildings, so steep I wonder how they get any furniture into the apartments.

The next morning, I venture west to the Plage de la Tonnara, 20 minutes’ drive along the coast, to enjoy a different side of Corsica. The surrounding landscape is rocky and arid, but the beach is a crescent of blond sand that descends into a shallow bay of crystalline water warm enough for swimming in October. I spend an hour paddling, reading and people-watching.

Lunch is booked a further 50 minutes around the coast and inland towards the perched town of Sartène, where the landscape changes again. Steep mountains lie ahead and I stop at La Bergerie d’Acciola, a laid-back bar-restaurant serving barbecued dishes under a rustic, timber-framed roof, with a terrace offering views of the surrounding peaks. I order a platter of cheese and charcuterie, including a prisuttu ham, with fat that melts in the mouth like butter; the goat and sheep cheeses are salty and moreish. I banish the thought that my journey will end soon and savour the flavours of the island, clinging on to the joy of its many faces for as long as possible.
Carolyn Boyd

Essaouira, Morocco

Camel rides, kayaking, surfing and horse riding are all on offer on the long, sandy beach

Visitors beware. I went to Essaouira for a day trip and ended up living there for a year. I had driven down from Marrakech (it’s just three hours by road), where the temperature was in the high 30s. I swept round the final roundabout and on to the corniche. The sea was a deep, glittering blue framed by imposing maritime pines, and the sand was sprinkled with coloured umbrellas. A cool breeze wafted in through the window – such a welcome change from the furnace of Marrakech. At that moment, I decided to move and set up home there.

In the summer, the city is rammed with Moroccans on their holidays, but by late September and October it’s much quieter with temperatures down to about 24C.

Essaouira has two distinct parts: the medina, enclosed within high walls, and the new town, which has grown up around it. The medina is small and much more navigable than the Marrakech equivalent, but still with that heady African/Arab mix. Two main streets lead off Place Moulay Hassan, the main square by the port. Avenue Sidi Ben Mohamed Abdellah is known as “tourist street” and parallel is Avenue de L’Istiqlal, “market street”. I like to stroll along market street around 5pm, when all the Souiris (locals) are out shopping for dinner, and fat dates, spicy olives and fresh fruit from surrounding farms are out waiting to be tasted.

To be in the centre of the action, base yourself in the medina at Dar Adul (doubles £59 B&B), a typical riad; or Salut Maroc (doubles from €200), a riot of pattern and colour with rooftop bar and restaurant.

The city has always been a trading port, the transit point for gold, cloth, leather and ostrich feathers coming out of the Sahara and going on to Europe, and there are many treasures to be found, including the distinctive Saharan throws and blankets dyed a deep blue or patterned in sand and black. Halfway up tourist street, traditional and fusion music plays from a shop whose knowledgable owner can introduce you to the rhythms of gnaoua (also gnawa), the music brought to Morocco from west Africa. Dozens of small galleries sell work by local artists, and on Sundays many artists open their studios to visitors in the joutiya flea market in the new town.

Essaouira is also a vibrant fishing hub, and at lunchtime stalls at the port sell a variety of seafood (the sardines are often freshest and cheapest – head to the less touristy stalls farthest away), which you then take to be cooked over charcoal for a few dirhams. Eat your catch with homemade bread and sweet tea, watching the seagulls and cats fight for the scraps.

But it’s the long, sandy beach that attracts most visitors. There’s plenty for the active: kite surfing, surfing, kayaking, quad biking, camel rides and horse riding are all on offer. It is also a great beach for kids and swimming, as the waves and tides are not strong.

My favourite thing to do is to walk along the beach to the town of Sidi Kaouki. It’s about 16 miles (25km) and will take most of the day (or jump in a taxi) but you’ll see horses galloping past and pass locals fishing for octopus perching patiently over the rock pools. Sidi Kaouki is becoming known for wellness as well as surfing. Little boutique hotels such as Kasbah d’Eau (doubles from €340 B&B for two nights), which has just opened, offer lots of sea- and land-based activities.

Every day in Essaouira has to be a sundowner day. You are in Morocco’s most westerly city and the sunsets are glorious. Sipping a chilled glass of wine at one of the beach restaurants, like Ocean Vagabond, while watching the camelteers take their animals home is the perfect prelude to dinner.

There are some great small restaurants in the medina and new town, offering tagine, couscous and grilled sardines, but I love the beef wellington at Umia and the grilled fish of the day at La Coupole. If you’re up for some fun, try the fire show and magicians at Caravane Cafe.

Essaouira has lots to offer but it doesn’t foist itself on you. The people are relaxed, the weather is mild and you get to enjoy Morocco at a slower pace. Writing this has made me realise that it is high time for another visit.
Alice Morrison

Axarquía, Spain

This is the highest of Andalucía’s pueblos blancos, in a land of caves, valleys and ancient trails

There’s something delightful – and practical – about planning your next few days’ activities just by looking out from the terrace of your hotel. At the Hotel Rural Olivia Verde (doubles from €90 room-only) in the village of Comares, you can do just that. Comares, an hour’s drive north-east of Málaga, is the highest of the pueblos blancos, the white villages that dot the Andalucian landscape. It’s in the heart of the Axarquía, a land of valleys, caves, limestone outcrops, white villages and ancient – Roman, Arabic and possibly Phoenician – trails that crisscross them.

Thanks to the village’s many vantage points, including the terrace, you get a 360-degree view of your forthcoming activities.

The hotel (also home to the best restaurant around) is a converted olive mill. From its terrace, there’s a steep 100-metre drop to a dusty road below and to the south is the glittering Mediterranean. But if you’ve made it up the winding road from the plain to Comares, then you’re likely here for the mountains, the walks and the adventure.

Let your gaze drop down and turn inland along that dusty road. Round the bend, you will join up with one of the well-signposted paths that hem the village. Close to the aquifer that has sustained the village for centuries, you’ll probably see climbers scaling a rock face. The village also has its own zip wire.

Now walkers can really get excited. Heading inland, the route called La Teja passes another huge outcrop. In about an hour you will reach the remains of an Arab settlement at Masmullar.

Drop into a cafe in the hamlet of Los Ventorros, or head back to Comares up the track for rest and refreshments at the excellent Mirador de la Axarquía restaurant on the village outskirts. That should be enough for day one.

Lots of people know that the Costa del Sol is barricaded by mountains, but most tourists don’t venture further than crowded places like Ronda. That is a huge shame because the Axarquía needs visitors – no overtourism here – and because a lot of people who appreciate clean air and empty, epic country are missing out.

If you have a bike, head into the campo (countryside) and explore the villages of Cutar and Benarmagosa. If your tyres can take it, bump along the riverbed of the Riogordo towards Colmenar. It will almost certainly be dry, but if the rains do come, beware – the river and the villages that lie along its banks is flash-flood territory.

The majestic peak of La Maroma, the local mountain, is walkable, but at over 2,000m, it’s best to get a guide. The quiet village of Canillas de Aceituno is a good base camp.

To venture beyond, you will probably need a car. The main village on La Maroma’s southern flank is Cómpeta, which is good fun and bustling. I’ve always enjoyed a visit to the long-established El Pilón restaurant.

But most villages have a bustle about them once the summer heat has passed: gone is the ghost-town atmosphere of the remote pueblos blancos, where everyone stays indoors with the blinds down in the hot weather. While many of the annual village ferias (fairs) take place in summer, Nerja’s is mid-October, Comares has its Night of the Candles in early September, while Cutar offers the Moorish-themed Fiesta del Monfi in October.

And the season is lengthening. In late November I was still in my shorts. November used to be when the rains came.
Mark Jones

Konitsa, Greece

The river, fed by mountain springs, holds the most luminous blue when I open my eyes under water

A small bell still hangs beneath the Konitsa bridge to warn those crossing the cobbles of strong winds. Built in 1870 and curving 20 metres above the translucent green waters of the Aoos River, this astonishing stone bridge is thought to be one of the highest single-arched spans in the Balkans. I look upstream from it into the Aoos gorge as the sun rises over the towering mountains.

The summer heat of Greece has mellowed to a warm September glow – and soon autumn will begin to yellow and bronze the leaves of the canyon trees. It’s my favourite time of year to be in this land of mountains, water and stone.

About 40 miles north of the city of Ioannina in north-west Greece, the historic town of Konitsa spreads like an amphitheatre over the lower slopes of Mount Trapezitsa. A zigzagging road from the river leads to its leafy squares and evocative upper town with Ottoman-era mansions and Orthodox churches. I’m staying at the wonderful, family-run Konitsa Mountain Hotel (doubles from €90 room-only), and each afternoon I savour wild mountain tea on the terrace with a panoramic view of the Albanian mountains and the Aoos winding across the plain towards the border.

As part of Unesco’s Vikos-Aoos Geopark, Konitsa is the perfect base for exploring the wider region. The next morning, I drive 15 minutes south to the Voidomatis River. There I follow a marked path along the riverbank upwards from another elegant stone bridge near the village of Kleidonia through a beautiful gallery forest of plane trees that bend low over the water. In the canyon walls above the trail are rock shelters once used by Palaeolithic hunters; below, fish fin slowly against the swift currents in the shadows of the trees. I always succumb to a swim in this river. Fed by deep mountain springs, it’s freezing whether high summer or late autumn, but holds the most luminous blue when I open my eyes underwater.

After a riverside lunch of grilled trout and fresh Greek salad at O Voidomatis taverna (open daytime only) I drive up into the Zagori region. The stunning stone houses and plane-shaded squares of Papingo and Mikro Papigko sit beneath the limestone mass of Mount Tyymfi, but my destination is the village of Vikos, on the edge of the Vikos Gorge – one of the deepest and most extraordinary geological forms in the world. The cooler temperatures of late September and October make walking the path down to the gorge’s turquoise springs far easier than in summer, and the reward after the ascent is a cold drink at the welcoming Viewpoint Garden cafe, set on a natural balcony above the chasm.

During the years I’ve been coming to Konitsa I’ve visited the atmospheric monastery of Molyvdoskepastos near the border with Albania and explored the beautiful villages of Monodendri, Kipoi and Vitsa at the southern end of Zagori. I’ve watched river-rafters on the Voidomatis, swum in the rock pools of Papingo, and listened to long-distance hikers talk about the alpine lakes and mountain refuge on Mount Tymfi. But I always return to the remarkable bridge over the Aoos before leaving.

I stop for coffee and traditional walnut cake at the cafe of the Gefyri Hotel by the bridge, and then walk the path towards the Panagia Stomiou monastery perched on a promontory by the narrowest point of the gorge. Pale boulders break the green-blue torrents while still pools by the banks reflect the craggy cliffs. Kingfishers fizz upriver and dippers dive into the flow, as the immense geological drama of the canyon and its current unfolds. This is a place where the ancient contours of earth and water are close enough to touch.
Julian Hoffman
For information about conservation work on the Aoos River, visit med-ina.org.

The accommodation prices quoted are for October 2025 and were correct at the time of publication

TORONTO — The smile is beatific, blissed out, even at an ungodly hour on our Zoom call from France. A week later, when I finally meet 43-year old filmmaker Oliver Laxe in person at a private Toronto celebration for his new movie “Sirât,” he radiates serenity. He’s the happiest (and maybe the tallest) person in the room.

“One of the first ideas that I had for this film was a sentence from Nietzsche,” he says. “I won’t believe in a God who doesn’t dance.”

Laxe goes to raves — “free parties,” he clarifies, indicating the ones you need to hear about via word of mouth. He’s thought deeply about what they mean and what they do to him. “We still have a memory in our bodies of these ceremonies that we were doing for thousands of years, when we were making a kind of catharsis with our bodies.”

It’s almost the opposite of what you expect to hear on the fall festival circuit, when directors with big ideas make their cases for the significance of the art form. But the body, the return to something purely sensorial, is Laxe’s big idea.

Steadily, “Sirât” has become, since its debut at Cannes in May, a growing favorite: not merely a critic’s darling but an obsession among those who’ve seen it. (The film will have an awards-qualifying run in Los Angeles beginning Nov. 14.) A dance party in the desert set at some vaguely hinted-at moment of apocalypse, the movie is something you feel, not solve. Its pounding EDM beats rattle pleasurably in your chest (provided the theater’s speakers are up to snuff). And the explosions on the horizon shake your heartbeat.

“I really trust in the capacity of images to penetrate into the metabolism of the spectator,” Laxe says. “I’m like a masseuse. When you watch my films, sometimes you’ll want to kill me or you’ll feel the pain in your body, like: Wow, what a treat. But after, you can feel the result.”

An image from the movie “Sirât,” directed by Oliver Laxe.

(Festival de Cannes)

Laxe can speak about his influences: cosmic epics by the Russian master Andrei Tarkovsky or existential road movies like “Zabriskie Point” and “Two-Lane Blacktop.” But he is not a product of a typical grad-school trajectory. Rather, it’s his escape from that path after growing up in northern Spanish Galicia and studying in Barcelona (he tried London for a while) that’s fascinating.

“I was not good,” he recalls. “I didn’t find I had a place in the industry or in Europe. I was not interested. I had bought a camera, a 16-millimeter Bolex, and I knew I was accepting that my role was to be a kind of sniper that was working in the trenches but making really small films.”

At age 24, Laxe moved to Tangier, Morocco, where he would live for 12 years at a monastic remove from the glamour of the movies, collaborating with local children on his films. The experience would grow into his first feature, 2010’s “You Are All Captains,” which eventually took him all the way to the prize-winning podium at Cannes, as did his second and third films, all of which came before “Sirât,” his fourth.

“Slowly, the things we were making were opening doors,” he says. “In a way, life was deciding, telling me: This is your path.”

Path is what “Sirât” means in Arabic, often with a religious connotation, and his new movie takes a unique journey, traversing from the loose-limbed dancing of its early scenes to a train’s tracks stretching fixedly to the end of the line. There’s also a quest that gets us into the film: a father and son searching among the ravers for a missing daughter, potentially a nod to “The Searchers” or Paul Schrader’s “Hardcore,” but not a plot point that Laxe feels especially interested in expounding on.

“Obviously I have a spiritual path and this path is about celebrating crisis,” he says. “My path was through crisis. It’s the only time when you connect with your essence. I just want to grow. So that’s why I jump into the abyss.”

“My path was through crisis,” says director Oliver Laxe of his steady rise. “It’s the only time when you connect with your essence. I just want to grow.”

(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)

Laxe tells me he didn’t spend years perfecting a script or sharpening dialogue. Rather, he took the images that stuck with him — trucks speeding into the dusty desert, fueled by the rumble of their own speaker systems — and brought them to the free parties, where his cast coalesced on the dance floor.

“We were telling them that we were making ‘Mad Max Zero,’ ” he recalls, but also something “more metaphysical, more spiritual. A few of them, I already knew. There are videos of us explaining the film in the middle of the dance floor with all the people dancing around. I mean it was quite crazy. It’s something I would like to show to film schools.”

Shot on grungy Super 16, the production drove deep into craggy, sandblasted wastelands, both in Morocco and mountainous Spain, where the crew would make hairpin turns along winding cliff roads that would give even fans of William Friedkin’s legendary 1977 misadventure “Sorcerer” anxiety.

“It was my least dangerous film,” Laxe counters, reminding me of his “Fire Will Come,” the 2019 arson thriller for which he cast actual firefighters. “We were making the film in the middle of the flames, so I don’t know. I’m a junkie of images and I need this drug.”

There is a Herzogian streak to the bearded Laxe, a prophet-in-the-wilderness boldness that inspires his collaborators, notably longtime writing partner Santiago Fillol and the techno composer Kangding Ray, to make the leap of faith with him. But there also seems to come a point when talking about “Sirât” feels insufficient, as opposed to simply submitting to its pounding soundscapes, found-family camaraderie and (fair warning) churning moments of sudden loss that have shaken even the most hardy of audiences.

“The film evokes this community of wounded people,” he says. “I’m not a sadistic guy that wants to make a spectator suffer. I have a lot of hope. I trust in human beings, even with their contradictions and weaknesses.”

For those who wish to find a political reading in the movie, it’s there for them, a parable about migration and fascism but also the euphoria of a headlong rush into the unknown. “Sirât” is giving odd comfort in a cultural moment of uncertainty, a rare outcome for a low-budget art film.

Its visionary maker knows exactly where he is going next.

“I got the message in Cannes,” Laxe says. “People want to feel the freedom of the filmmaker or the auteur. What they appreciate is that we were jumping from a fifth floor to make this film. So for the next one —”

Our connection cuts out and it’s almost too perfect: a Laxian cliffhanger moment in which ideas are yanked back by a rush of feeling. After several hours of me hoping this was intentional on his part, the director does indeed get back to me, apologetically. But until then, he is well served by the mystery.

A travel influencer has revealed how she was “bombarded with sudden marriage proposals” during a nightmare solo trip to a tourist hotspot and warns others how to handle unwanted attention

It should have been the holiday of a lifetime but a trip to Marrakesh in Morocco turned into an experience that was challenging and exhausting for one young woman.

Influencer Karolina Wachowicz, 35, who is originally from Poland, said she felt like a “neon sign” as she walked the streets of Morocco as a “blonde single woman” and couldn’t even cross the road or sit alone without having to fend off unwanted attention from men.

The travel lover said she was motivated to visit Morocco by fellow travel influencer Katarzyna Lawrynowic, who regularly posts content about her time in Marrakesh. But she is warning other travellers to wear appropriate clothing and develop a thick skin in order to survive.

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“As a blonde, single European woman, you are not seen as just another traveller, you become the spectacle,” Karolina, who originally comes from Krakow in Poland, told What’s The Jam. “Every glance, every comment, every offer of help is loaded with meaning you never asked for.

“Here, it’s not about seeing Morocco as a tourist, it is a daily lesson in holding your boundaries, keeping your nerve, and realising you have to rewrite the rules for every block, market, or bus stop.

“In Marrakesh, the onslaught is sharp and constant. Men make comments out loud, sometimes in French, sometimes in Arabic, as you walk by. At first, you think the compliments are harmless, maybe even flattering, but they don’t let up, and you realise their persistence is never just about curiosity.”

And she said refusing politely is rarely respected because men often push for your name, your plans and your relationship status. Sometimes, a casual ‘I have a boyfriend’ is the only answer that truly stops them. Yet the moment you let your guard down, or even just smile out of nervousness, it can be read as a signal to try harder.

“In cafes and markets, you quickly learn to focus your gaze, answer monosyllabically and keep walking. Men bombarded me with questions and compliments, even sudden proposals!”

Karolina said the attention became even more intense when she left the city and travelled to small towns and rural villages. The 35-year-old said, “The attention is sometimes suffocating. Simple acts, like sitting in a café or shopping for groceries, become events.

“I couldn’t cross the street without at least one person asking for a photo or money.

“Marriage proposals were, of course, also common. Here, any visible skin or uncovered hair is read as a statement, no matter how modestly you think you are dressed. Suddenly, you realise that even a light summer dress and exposed shoulders can make you the focal point for requests, proposals, or relentless questions.”

But despite the challenges, Karolina said it’s possible to enjoy time in Morocco “if you understand just how different the social codes are”.

She added: “Morocco can challenge and exhaust you, but it will also teach you resilience, flexibility, and the importance of cross-cultural kindness, if you’re willing to look beneath the sometimes exasperating surface. The key to survival is a blend of thick skin, improvisation, humour, patience, and cultural sensitivity.”

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MEL B has shared the first look at her second wedding in Morocco.

The star – aka Scary Spice – tied the knot with hairdresser Rory McPhee, 37, at St Paul’s Cathedral in London on July 5 in a star-studded ceremony.

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However, the only other Spice Girl in attendance on her big day was Emma ‘Baby Spice’ Bunton.

It was previously reported that Mel’s second wedding in Morocco – which she described as “more informal, sexy and beautiful” – would give the other Spice Girls the opportunity to reunite and celebrate their band mates nuptials.

Now Mel, 50, has shared the first snap from her second big day, where she stunned in a strapless sheer gown covered in red beading.

Meanwhile Rory looked dapper in a short white tuxedo jacket, black trousers and bow tie.

The newlyweds beamed and danced in the snap in front of their Moroccan venue, and Mel caption the snap: “We got married!!! Again!

“A wedding so good we keep the celebration going with our closest and dearest in our fav place at @selmanmarrakech [three heart emojis] we had the time of our lives!!”

And it seems Mel C, who had missed the London ceremony, was in attendance as she commented: “What a weekend! So happy we got to share it with you [three heart emojis].”

Mel’s sister Danielle also shared pictures on her Instagram Stories of the celebrations.

Nigeria had not been shy in expressing their intentions of winning their 10th Wafcon, with players consistently asked about that target in media engagements.

The Super Falcons have certainly backed up their off-field talk in their performances in Morocco this month as coach Justin Madugu found the right blend in the knockout phase.

Yet the top-ranked side in Africa made a poor start and Nigeria were unable to match Morocco’s level in the first half.

The North Africans went ahead in the 13th minute when Halimatu Ayinde gave the ball to Chebbak, who sent a fine shot just inside the left-hand upright, and doubled their lead 11 minutes later when Mssoudy shot across goal.

Okoronkwo was composure personified after the intervention of VAR to make it 2-1 from the spot, and then kept her head when she burst through the Morocco defence to control, pause and put the ball on a plate for Ijamilusi.

Another big moment came when Morocco were awarded a penalty in the 79th minute when Imane Saoud helped a cross onto the hand of Blessing Demehin, who was barely two yards away.

Chebbak had the ball on the spot when Namibian referee Antsino Twanyanyukwa was called to the VAR screen and overturned her decision almost four minutes later.

And the comeback was completed when Okoronkwo provided a pin-point free-kick delivery and Echegini got ahead of centre-back Benzina to sweep home from six yards out.

The West Africans have now beaten a third host nation in a Wafcon final following successes over South Africa and Cameroon in 2000 and 2016 respectively.

Nigeria claim their tenth WAFCON title, ‘Mission X’, as they come from behind to beat Morocco 3-2 in Rabat.

Substitute Jennifer Echegini scored the 88th-minute winner as Nigeria came from two goals behind to beat hosts Morocco 3-2 in a dramatic Women’s Africa Cup of Nations final.

The triumph in Rabat on Saturday confirmed the West Africans as the queens of women’s football in Africa as they pulled off a record-extending 10th title in 13 editions – “Mission X”, as they dubbed their efforts – to win the 2025 edition.

It was the second successive final loss for Morocco, who led by two goals after 24 minutes, only to concede three in the second half.

Esther Okoronkwo played a key role in the Super Falcons’ victory: scoring the first goal, creating the second and delivering the free-kick that Echegini finished to stun the home crowd.

Morocco, backed by a vibrant capacity crowd at the 21,000-seat Stade Olympique in the capital, took the lead on 12 minutes as Nigeria conceded for the first time in open play at the tournament.

Nigeria fluffed several chances to clear the ball, and it fell just outside the area to Chebbak, whose perfectly placed, rising shot gave goalkeeper Chiamaka Nnadozie no chance.

The lead doubled 12 minutes later as the ball flew across the Nigerian goalmouth to Sanaa Mssoudy, who ended a five-match goal drought by steering a low shot into the far corner of the net.

Nigeria had more possession in the opening half than the host nation, but managed only one shot on target, and it did not trouble goalkeeper Khadija Er-Rmichi.

But the Moroccan lead halved after 64 minutes as Okoronkwo sent Er-Rmichi the wrong way from a penalty after a VAR review showed a Folashade Ijamilusi cross striking Nouhaila Benzina’s hand.

The goal lifted the spirits of increasingly assertive Nigeria, and they equalised seven minutes later, when Okoronkwo turned creator with a pull-back that Ijamilusi pushed into the net from close range.

CHAMPIONS OF AFRICA FOR THE 10TH TIME! 🏆🇳🇬

Tell your neighbors, tell the world — the Super Falcons reign supreme again!#MissionX #SoarSuperFalcons #WAFCON2024 #Champions #MORNGA pic.twitter.com/tiUQZleMEy

— NGSuper_Falcons (@NGSuper_Falcons) July 26, 2025

On Friday, Ghana finished third, winning a penalty shootout 4-3 against outgoing champions South Africa after a 1-1 playoff draw in regular time in Casablanca.

After two weakly struck spot kicks in a row by South Africa were saved to give Ghana the advantage, 19-year-old Nancy Amoh converted the decisive penalty with a low shot into the corner of the net.

A blunder by Ghana goalkeeper Cynthia Konlan gifted South Africa the lead on 45 minutes as she lost control of the ball just outside the box, and Nonhlanhla Mthandi struck it into the net.

Persistent Ghanaian pressure finally paid off on 68 minutes when an Alice Kusi header came off the crossbar and long-serving South Africa shot-stopper Andile Dlamini conceded an own goal.

Victory was particularly sweet for the Black Queens as they were outplayed when losing 2-0 to Banyana Banyana (The Girls) in the group stage.

Ghana have won the four third-place playoffs they qualified for, while South Africa have lost four of five bronze medal matches.

The next Women’s Africa Cup of Nations is scheduled for March 2026, also in Morocco, and will double as a qualifying competition for the 2027 Women’s World Cup in Brazil.

Nigeria hunt a 10th WAFCON title against a Morocco side seeking their first when the pair face off in Rabat.

Who: Nigeria vs Morocco
What: Women’s Africa Cup of Nations final 2025
Where: Olympic Stadium in Rabat, Morocco
When: Saturday at 8pm (19:00 GMT).

Two of the continent’s footballing powerhouses will contest the Confederation of African Football’s (CAF’s) 2025 Women’s Africa Cup of Nations (WAFCON) final in Rabat on Saturday as Nigeria take on host nation Morocco.

It’s the 13th edition of the tournament, which was pushed back a year due to scheduling issues.

Al Jazeera takes a look at the match, which could mark a shift in power in the women’s game in Africa.

How many WAFCONs have Nigeria and Morocco won?

Nigeria are the record nine-time champions.

Morocco are yet to lift the trophy but did reach the final on home soil three years ago when they were defeated by South Africa.

How did Nigeria reach the WAFCON final?

Nigeria opened with a 3-0 win against Tunisia, but the highest ranked team needed a late winner to squeeze past the lowest-ranked side, Botswana. A 0-0 draw in their final group game with Algeria secured the top spot in Group B.

The Super Falcons hammered Zambia 5-0 in the quarterfinals before overcoming holders South Africa 2-1 in the last four.

How did Morocco reach the WAFCON final?

Morocco also remain unbeaten but opened the tournament with a 2-2 draw against Zambia. A 4-2 win against the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) and 1-0 win against Senegal sealed Group A.

Mali were overcome with a 3-1 win in the last eight before Ghana awaited in the semifinal, in which Morocco needed a penalty shootout following a 1-1 draw after extra time.

‘Mission X’ on Nigeria’s minds

The Nigerian side have come up with branding for their attempt to lift a 10th WAFCON title.

Looking to bounce back from their fourth-place finish in the 2022 edition, the Super Falcons dubbed their ambition to win this event as “Mission X”.

A winning mentality in the Morocco camp

Morocco’s ranks are bolstered by 2022 player of the tournament Ghizlane Chebbak, who netted a hat-trick against the DRC.

Atlas Lionesses coach Jorge Vilda could be heading to back-to-back international titles, having led Spain to the 2023 World Cup.

90 minutes from a fairytale ending, The hosts are almost there. 🇲🇦#TotalEnergiesWAFCON2024 pic.twitter.com/H9Ep020Alb

— CAF Women’s Football (@CAFwomen) July 24, 2025

Who are the leading scorers at WAFCON 2025?

Four goals: Chebbak, Nguenar Ndiaye (Senegal)

Three goals: Ibtissam Jraidi (Morocco), Chinwendu Ihezuo (Nigeria), Barbra Banda (Zambia), Racheal Kundananji (Zambia)

Where is WAFCON 2025 being staged?

Morocco have hosted the last two WAFCON finals as the North Africans’ place as a pre-eminent footballing force on the continent is reinforced.

The Royal Moroccan Football Federation is also preparing to stage the 2025 men’s edition of the Africa Cup of Nations and co-host the 2030 FIFA World Cup.

Where is WAFCON final being staged?

The Olympic Stadium in Rabat with a capacity of 21,000 people will host the final.

What is the prize money for WAFCON 2025?

CAF increased the tournament prize pot by 45 percent to $3.475m.

The prize money for the winners has doubled since the last edition with the victors of Saturday’s match sharing $1m.

Predicted lineups

Possible Nigeria lineup: Nnadozie, Ohale, Plumptre, Okoronkwo, Echegini, Demehin, Ajibade, Ayinde, Ihezuo, Ijamilusi, Alozie

Possible Morocco lineup: Er-Rmichi, Redouani, Benzina, Chebbak, Jraidi, Badri, Tagnaout, Rabbah, Ait El Haj, Ouzraoui, Mrabet

Host nation Morocco will face Nigeria in the Women’s Africa Cup of Nations after beating Ghana on penalties.

Goalkeeper Khadija Er-Rmichi blocked Comfort Yeboah’s attempt, and the hosts, Morocco, advanced to the championship of the Women’s Africa Cup of Nations (WAFCON) on a penalty shootout after a 1-1 draw with Ghana.

Morocco, which prevailed 4-2 on penalties on Tuesday, will face Nigeria in the final on Saturday. The Super Falcons defeated defending champions South Africa 2-1 in the earlier semifinal on Tuesday in Casablanca.

Ghana took a first-half lead. Er-Rmichi got a hand on Josephine Bonsu’s header, but it bounced off the post and skittered across the goal for Stella Nyamekye to push it into the net in the 26th minute.

Morocco equalised in the 55th when Sakina Ouzraoui bounced a pass from her chest to her feet and scored from underneath diving Ghana goalkeeper Cynthia Konlan.

Scoreless for the rest of regulation, the match went to extra time at Rabat’s Olympic Stadium.

Morocco has seen its national team rise in recent years. The team reached the WAFCON final in 2022 but fell to South Africa. Morocco also went to the Women’s World Cup for the first time in 2023 and advanced to the round of 16.

Morocco advanced to the semifinals with a 3-1 victory over Mali, while Ghana downed Algeria 4-2 on penalties after a scoreless draw.

Nigeria beat South Africa in first WAFCON semi

Michelle Alozie’s long ball bounced into the goal in stoppage time to give Nigeria a 2-1 victory over South Africa earlier on Tuesday, and send the Super Falcons into the final at the WAFCON.

The Super Falcons have won nine WAFCON titles. Disappointed by their fourth-place finish in the 2022 tournament, the Super Falcons dubbed their goal to win this event as “Mission X”.

Alozie, who plays in the National Women’s Soccer League for the Houston Dash, sent the ball forward from distance four minutes into stoppage time. Although two teammates were in front of South Africa’s net, neither of them touched the ball as it bounced into the goal.

Rasheedat Ajibade, who plays for Atlético Madrid, converted a penalty just before half-time to put Nigeria ahead 1-0. The Super Falcons were awarded the penalty because of a handball in the box.

South Africa, the defending WAFCON champions, pulled even on Linda Motlhalo’s penalty in the 60th minute.

Nigeria, which had not previously conceded a goal in the tournament, routed Zambia 5-0 in the quarterfinals to advance. South Africa, led by coach Desiree Ellis, advanced on penalties after a scoreless draw with Senegal.

There was a scary moment in the 84th minute when South Africa midfielder Gabriela Salgado went down with an injury, and players from both teams frantically gestured for help.

Salgado was stretchered off with her left leg heavily wrapped as her teammates sobbed. The crowd at Stade Larbi Zaouli chanted her name.

The Moroccan Sahara dispute is one of the most persistent and complex regional conflicts in North Africa, lasting over forty years. This ongoing disagreement involves the Kingdom of Morocco and the Polisario Front, which is supported by Algeria. The conflict centers on sovereignty, territorial integrity, and national identity, making it a highly sensitive and crucial issue for regional stability.

In this ongoing dispute, China’s role as an emerging global power and a permanent member of the United Nations Security Council is particularly significant. China’s involvement is strategically important due to its increasing influence in international affairs and its promotion of a multilateral approach to global stability. As a result, China’s position on the Sahara issue holds critical strategic importance, not only for Morocco but also for the broader regional and international community.

Recently, Moroccan scholars and researchers have been actively examining and questioning China’s stance on the Sahara conflict. They ask whether China recognizes the autonomy plan proposed by Morocco in 2007 as a valid political solution. There is also an ongoing debate about whether the Chinese Communist Party holds a neutral position or leans toward supporting one side. These questions are important because they influence how Morocco and its allies perceive China’s diplomatic approach.

Furthermore, experts are eager to determine China’s official stance on Morocco’s sovereignty over its southern territories. Given China’s foreign policy focus on non-interference and respect for territorial integrity, the analysis assesses whether China follows these principles in this situation or if its actions suggest a departure. Overall, China’s changing position in this dispute has significant implications for regional stability and the future diplomatic landscape of North Africa.  

First: The evolving strategic landscape of Moroccan-Chinese relations

Since the announcement of the strategic partnership between Morocco and China in May 2016, bilateral relations have experienced significant growth across various sectors. These include the economy, infrastructure development, energy projects, technological progress, and higher education initiatives. Morocco also actively participated in China’s ambitious “Belt and Road” initiative, which aims to enhance connectivity and foster economic cooperation among participating countries. Through this involvement, Morocco has established itself as a key financial partner for Beijing in North and West Africa, strengthening regional ties.

This expanding cooperation and engagement have transformed Morocco into a strategic launchpad for China’s broader strategy in Africa. The partnership has enhanced the country’s international reputation, presenting Morocco as a stable, open, and welcoming partner for foreign investment and diplomacy. Furthermore, this strengthened relationship has indirectly influenced China’s stance on the Moroccan Sahara issue, where China has adopted a more cautious, pragmatic, and balanced approach, demonstrating a deeper diplomatic understanding and respect for regional sensitivities.

Second: China’s stance on the Moroccan Sahara issue

China’s official position at the United Nations is neutral, consistent with its traditional foreign policy principles of non-interference and respect for sovereignty and territorial integrity.

During discussions on extending the MINURSO mission’s mandate, China emphasizes the need for a realistic, lasting, and mutually acceptable political solution. It advocates for the “continuation of dialogue” between the involved parties, refrains from harsh language toward Morocco, and seeks to maintain a balanced tone while not recognizing the Polisario Front as a sovereign state. Although this position seems “neutral,” it implicitly supports Morocco’s sovereignty.

Third: China’s position on the Moroccan autonomy proposal

In 2007, Morocco proposed its autonomy initiative as a practical political solution within the framework of national sovereignty for the ongoing conflict, and this initiative gained support from many major countries in Africa, as well as in the Arab and Western worlds, including France, the United States, Britain, Germany, and Spain.

Regarding China, it did not explicitly support or oppose the initiative but expressed indirect approval, noting that it “contributes positively to international efforts to find a solution to the conflict.” Since then, China has not opposed the Moroccan proposal but has shown tacit acceptance, especially when calling for “realistic and viable” solutions.

Fourth: Factors Affecting China’s Position

Many key factors and influences shape China’s stance on the Moroccan Sahara issue.

The principle of sovereignty and national territorial integrity: China rejects any efforts at secession, as it faces similar challenges within its territory, such as those in Taiwan, Hong Kong, and Tibet. Therefore, it tends to support countries that uphold their territorial integrity, although it has not explicitly stated this.

Relations with Algeria: Despite the increasing closeness between China and Morocco, Algeria remains a key energy partner for China, especially in the gas sector. This leads China to carefully balance its diplomatic efforts to protect its interests with both countries. Investing in regional stability: China believes that regional stability benefits its economic interests, so it prefers peaceful and stable solutions to disputes without supporting separatist movements that could cause chaos or armed conflicts.           

Fifth: Is China’s stance shifting?

This question poses a challenge for researchers and those interested in the Moroccan Sahara conflict, as increasing signs suggest a possible gradual shift in China’s stance in the years to come.

– Growing Chinese trade and investments in Morocco, including the Mohammed VI Smart City project, the Atlantic port in Nador, and solar energy initiatives.

– Enhancing strategic visits and high-level diplomatic meetings between China and Morocco.

– China’s diplomatic language, like “realistic solution” and “viable political solution,” hints at autonomy and is a key reference for the Moroccan autonomy proposal.

– China’s ties with the West, especially the U.S., are weakening, pushing China to build and diversify its alliances in the Global South, including with Morocco.

In conclusion, it can be said that the Chinese Communist Party’s approach to the Moroccan Sahara issue is marked by a kind of “thought-out neutrality,” balancing core principles of Chinese foreign policy with increasing strategic interests in Morocco. Despite China’s public commitment to the policy of “neutrality,” its diplomatic and economic actions imply implicit support for Morocco’s sovereignty over its deserts, or at least a practical acceptance of the autonomy initiative. Therefore, in light of international geopolitical shifts, Morocco has a strategic opportunity to strengthen its ties with Beijing and convince it that supporting the autonomy proposal does not conflict with its political and diplomatic principles but aligns with its vision of global stability.