longdistance

Switzerland’s epic Jungfrau

Distance up to 74 miles
Duration 3-9 days

Amid stiff competition, the Bernese Oberland is probably the Swiss Alps – perhaps any Alps – at their best. Here, the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger loom in thrilling cohort, lakes dazzle in extraordinary shades, waterfalls tumble down elvish valleys and picturesque villages teeter at dizzying heights. And, this being Switzerland, everything is connected by efficient PostBuses, gondolas, mountain railways and, of course, walking trails.

Summer is the best trekking season – trails are snow-free, mountain huts are open, the weather is most settled. Route options are numerous. Cicerone’s new trekking guide, The Bernese Oberland, recommends a nine-stage, 74-mile tour of the Jungfrau region, a magnificent moderate-grade, hut-to-hut loop from the mountain village of Grindelwald.

Those shorter on time could spend a few days walking between cute, car-free Mürren and Wengen, Kleine Scheidegg (from where the Jungfraubahn railway grinds up to 3,454m), Grindelwald and Schynige Platte – the hike to this mountain ridge, with views up to snowy peaks and down to lakes Thun and Brienz, is arguably Europe’s finest day walk.

How to do it Accommodation is plentiful; berths in Swiss Alpine Club huts can be booked in advance at sac-cas.ch. Macs Adventure offers an eight-day Grindelwald Trail trip from £1,510pp.

The Alpe Adria, the ultimate pleasure trail, Slovenia and Italy

Distance up to 465 miles
Duration 7-9+ days

If you’ve got all summer, the Alpe Adria is a hiker’s dream: more than 450 miles of leisurely ambling, from the base of Grossglockner, Austria’s highest mountain, to the shores of the Adriatic.

If you don’t have time for the whole route, go for a one week chunk in Slovenia’s Julian Alps. Despite being scenically spectacular, and cheaper than, say, Switzerland or France, Slovenia’s mountains still tend to be quieter than other regions in summer.

The section from the resort of Kranjska Gora to Cividale del Friuli, over the border in Italy, packs in the high peaks and passes of Triglav national park, the emerald-hued Soča River, mountain villages and the Isonzo Front, where Italian and Austro-Hungarian forces clashed in the first world war; old bunkers can still be seen. It’s a moderate-to-challenging 80-mile, six-day hike, but well worth the effort, with one of the best views saved for last: the final ascent over the Kolovrat mountain ridge delivers a panorama taking in both Alpine peaks and the Adriatic Sea.

How to do it See alpe-adria-trail.com. The Natural Adventure offers an eight-day self-guided trip from Kranjska Gora to Cividale del Friuli from £1,095pp.

A coastal camino in Portugal and Spain

Distance 170 miles
Duration 2 weeks

If you’re set on a summer pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, make it this coastal one. The route from Porto to the tomb of Saint James is the third most popular camino, offering plenty of peregrino camaraderie, but less human traffic than the busy Camino Francés. Plus Atlantic gusts keep things a little cooler, with lots of opportunities for refreshing dips.

Starting from Porto, the trail follows the coast, via fishing villages and swathes of blond sand, up to Caminha, where a boat across the River Minho deposits walkers in Spain. The trail continues to hug the coast to Vigo, the 100km-to-Santiago mark. Many pilgrims start here, the minimum distance required to earn a completion certificate. Soon after, the camino leaves the sea, finishing with an inland stretch, past the hot springs of Caldas de Reis and the hot peppers of Padrón.

How to do it Municipal pilgrims’ hostels can’t be pre-booked (they’re first come, first served). Private hostels and hotels should be booked in advance in summer. Exodus offers a 15-day self-guided Portuguese Coastal trip from £1,839pp

Along the Lech, an untamed Alpine river in Austria and Germany

Distance 78 miles
Duration 7-10 days

It feels cooler, walking by water. Which makes the river-tracing, shade-bathed Lechweg a good option for a summer stroll. The easy-to-moderate route was the first to be designated a Leading Quality Trail by the European Hiking Federation, an indicator of its excellent infrastructure and waymarking.

It follows the River Lech from its source in the mountains (at 1,793m, so the trail can only be accessed in full from mid-June to early October) near Austria’s Formarinsee lake to the Lechfall waterfall in Füssen, in Germany’s Bavarian Alps. Soon after that, the river becomes tamer, dammed to serve hydroelectric power stations. But before Füssen, the Lech – one of Europe’s last remaining stretches of wild river – runs free, its turquoise waters braiding over gravel plains, fed by Alpine streams, roaring through gorges and frothing amid pine forest and soaring peaks.

However, while the landscape feels untouched, facilities are plentiful, with a succession of mountain towns and villages offering comfy lodging, historic churches and artisans producing everything from beer to cheese.

How to do it Lechweg.com has details of trails and accommodation. Walkers’ Britain offers an eight-day, self-guided Lechtal trip from £990pp.

The Beara Way, a quieter and wilder side of south-west Ireland

Distance up to 128 miles
Duration 3-10 days

South-west Ireland’s remote Beara peninsula offers a respite from summer temperatures elsewhere: cooled by Atlantic breezes, it’s rarely too hot down here. And, dangling below the better-known Dingle and Iveragh peninsulas, Beara escapes some of the crowds, too.

The Beara Way makes a loop of this rugged finger of land, using tracks, bog roads and boreens (country lanes) to negotiate hills and valleys, ancient stone circles, early Christian churches, 19th-century copper mines, even a Tibetan Buddhist retreat. The full Beara Way, beginning and ending in Glengarriff, can be done in around 10 days. Or you could spend a few days tackling a selection of the route’s 15 spin-off circular walks. These include taking Ireland’s only cable car over the sea to Dursey, to make a nine-mile loop of this largely deserted isle, or catching the ferry from Castletownbere to make a circuit of Bere, an island-cum-open air museum, home to Martello tower forts, gun batteries, a lighthouse and a harbour fortified by Vikings.

How to do it See bearatourism.com/beara-way. Hillwalk Tours offers several Beara Way options, including a 10-day full loop from £935pp.

Sweden’s stunning coastal Kuststigen trail

Distance up to 234 miles
Duration 2-5+ days

The Kuststigen isn’t a continuous hike along West Sweden’s Bohuslän coast; it is 44 well-marked stages (some connected, some not, with most easily accessible by ferry or bus) showcasing this knockout shoreline’s sapphire seas, pink granite outcrops, bright-painted fishing villages and some of its 8,000 idyllic isles and skerries. This makes it an easy trail to dip into for a few days’ sea-breezy summer hiking.

The Swedish holiday season runs from July to mid-August, so go in late August to early September (or next June) when the weather will still be mild and the coast crowd-free.

Which sections to choose? Stage 22 (7 miles) loops Ramsvikslandet, a striking peninsula nature reserve known as the Kingdom of Rocks. Combine it with stage 24, the linear Kungshamn-Tullboden route (10 miles), then a ferry hop to complete stage 25, a circuit of Bohus-Malmön (6 miles), via ancient monuments and swimming lagoons. For city-accessible strolling, take the free ferry from Gothenburg’s Lilla Varholmen terminal to Hönö, to walk stages 1-3 (17 miles in total), an unfurling of flowery meadows, sandy beaches, swim spots and seabirds.

How to do it See kuststigen.westswedentrails.se. For camping, see campingvastkust.se; for buses, vasttrafik.se.

LOVE Island stars Whitney Adebayo and Yamen Sanders have split after five months.

The pair found love in the ITV All Stars villa in South Africa in January – finishing in fifth place.

However, rumours have swirled of their break-up after the couple were navigating a long-distance relationship.

Whitney was based in the UK while American footballer Yamen was in the US.

A source told me: “Whitney and Yamen did try and put everything into their relationship.

“But it has inevitably been tough to keep up their romance long-distance.

OH MA-YA MY

Maya Jama stuns in pink PVC dress as she counts down to Love Island in video

YAS HOT

Love Island’s Yasmin looks incredible in thong bikini

“Whitney has been spending more time with her girls and has been leaning on them while navigating her break-up.”

Earlier this week, Whitney was spotted on TikTok with fellow Love Island star Millie Court having a girly night in.

The pair were seen in their pyjamas clinking glasses of red wine together with the audio ‘so we’re going to heal’ playing.

Sounds like Whitney has a hot girl summer pending.

Up here, the river was a mere gurgle; a babbling babe finding its way into the world. A few sheep roamed, a kite wheeled and a spring-clean wind ruffled the tussocks on the barren hills and rippled the pools. It was a stark yet striking beginning. As we followed a brand new fingerpost, skirted Llyn Teifi – the river’s official source – and picked up the fledgling flow, there was a sense great things lay ahead, for us both.

The Teifi rises in Ceredigion’s Cambrian Mountains – the untramped “green desert of Wales” – and pours into Cardigan Bay 75 miles (120km) south-west. It’s one of the longest rivers wholly within Wales and, historically, one of its most significant: the beating heart of the country’s fishing and wool-weaving industries, 12th-century abbeys at either end, Wales’s oldest university en route.

However, those abbeys lie in ruin now, salmon and sewin (brown trout) stocks have plummeted, and the mills are shuttered – though the factory in the village of Dre-fach Felindre now operates as the National Wool Museum. Even the future of Lampeter’s venerable university is uncertain following the decision to end undergraduate teaching there. It’s as if the valley has lost its purpose. So some determined local walkers are giving it a new one.

The Teifi Valley Trail, an 83-mile hike following the river from source to sea, officially launched on 25 April, but has been decades in the making. The idea was born back when Ceredigion, Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire came under one authority (Dyfed), said Kay Davis of the Teifi Valley Trail Association (TVTA), when we met in Llanybydder. “Then the three counties separated in 1996 and it went off the boil. A long time later, we thought, wouldn’t it be great if there was a trail? So we got together with others in the area and went from there.”

It has been a grassroots, cooperative effort between members of local Ramblers groups, Walkers are Welcome communities and footpath associations along the valley, working to reopen paths, secure permissions, nail up waymarks and create a guide. Thought has been given to route quality, places to stay and accessibility by public transport.

“One of the main reasons for the trail is to get people with backpacks and boots down here to spend money,” added the TVTA’s James Williams. “We’ve seen the economic effect the coastal paths have; we thought we could have a bit of that as well.” Backpacked and booted, my husband and I were here to give it a go.

There’s certainly something powerful about following a river. Walking from Teifi Pools on our first day, that trickle led us across the moor and through wild, wooded valleys or cwms with the exuberance of youth. It soon took us to Strata Florida, the abbey founded in 1164 by Cistercian monks seeking solitude in nature – not to mention access to the area’s abundant timber, pasture, peat, lead ore and, of course, water. Little remains of the abbey now – a grand arch, some fine medieval tiles, a cottage housing a small but fascinating exhibition. But this was once the Westminster Abbey of Wales, second only in fame to St Davids and much larger than the ruins suggest. Many pilgrims made the journey here.

Most have probably never heard of Strata Florida, and the Teifi Valley continued in this vein: a place of secrets and little-heard stories. These ranged from a buried elephant (behind Tregaron’s handsome Y Talbot Hotel, allegedly) to dry-stone walls built by Napoleonic prisoners of war. Llanddewi Brefi village was full of tales. On the old mountain-crossing drovers’ route, it has a soaring Norman church built on a mound said to have been miraculously raised by St David himself. These days, Llanddewi is better known as the scene of an enormous LSD drugs raid in 1977 or as the home of Little Britain’s “only gay in the village”. “Most here didn’t watch the show, and I didn’t mind it,” said Yvonne Edwards, landlady of Llanddewi’s New Inn, a proper no-frills-and-flagstones pub. “It was just annoying, having Australian journalists ringing in the middle of the night, and people stealing road signs.”

Further down the trail, just outside Llanybydder, we found one of Davis’s hidden gems: a woodland path, long unused, that her Ramblers group worked hard to reopen. “It’s tiny,” she’d told us, “but there’s a presence there, a good presence.” Indeed, it was like a shot of Narnia, a short stretch of moss-covered magic.

Over the following days, we flirted with the river. At times we were high above, peering from gorse-covered hill forts, across slopes of sheep-grazed green or through woods flush with bluebells. At others, we were on its banks, once close enough to glimpse an otter raise its silken head in the swirl. Beyond Llechryd, the path squeezed us through a tree-huddled gorge, the river’s murmurings joined by the gossip of thrushes, tits, blackcaps and wrens.

The general mood was soothing. It was hard to imagine this river roisterous with industry, fizzing with fish, busy with boats – Cardigan, within the Teifi’s tidal reach, was once the second-largest port in Wales. It’s a quieter town these days, and looking good, boosted by the restoration of its castle, which was rescued from ruin a decade ago. The castle hosted the first National Eisteddfod in 1176; in celebration of the 850th anniversary, the 2026 festival is being held at nearby Llantwd.

We stayed in one of the castle’s refined rooms, but still had a few miles to go to reach journey’s end. The trail runs via St Dogmael’s Abbey and climbs high for views across the estuary before dropping to meet it at sweeping Poppit Sands. We washed our boots in the shallows, “our” river now indiscernible, swallowed by the sea.

It was a good walk. And perhaps it wasn’t over? “Early on, we had this idea to create the Celtic Circle,” Davis told me: a 175-mile loop linking the Teifi Valley Trail, a section of Wales Coast Path to Borth, and the Spirit of the Miners route from Borth to Strata Florida. “But we’ll see if we still have the energy after this!”

The trip was supported by Discover Ceredigion, Discover Carmarthenshire and Visit Pembrokeshire. For information, downloadable maps and guidebooks, see the Teifi Valley Trail website. Accommodation includes Y Talbot in Tregaron (doubles from £70), the New Inn in Llanddewi Brefi (doubles from £76), the Cross Hands Hotel in Llanybydder (doubles from £108), Emlyn Hotel in Newcastle Emlyn (doubles from £79) and Cardigan Castle (doubles from £110)