locals

A picturesque market town has become one of the most desirable places to live in England, but locals say it’s a victim of its own success.

Winding cobbled lanes snake past vibrant shop fronts, ancient stone homes perch on steep slopes, and the River Calder sparkles beneath graceful canal arches.

Hebden Bridge, tucked away in the Calder Valley’s embrace between Halifax and Todmorden, resembles a town lifted directly from a picture-perfect greeting card.

This former industrial mill settlement has transformed into one of northern England’s most coveted residential destinations, consistently featuring on rankings of Britain’s most scenic, tight-knit communities.

However, conversations with locals reveal a different narrative: one of fondness mixed with weariness. Despite its undeniable charm, Hebden Bridge’s appeal creates significant challenges, reports the Express.

Residents complain of excessive visitor numbers, insufficient car parking facilities, and a growing concern that the equilibrium between locals and day-trippers is tilting dangerously.

Even during a mundane Thursday afternoon, well beyond the peak summer influx, finding a parking spot proves elusive.

Motorists patrol the town centre, scanning adjacent roads desperately for an available bay. As one local quipped: “You can spend longer finding somewhere to park than enjoying your coffee.”

Ben Oliver, 39, who relocated from Sunderland in March 2020, shared similar sentiments.

“It’s a beautiful place with a strong community, and you can see the moors from here,” he said. “But town parking can get difficult, and because of the tourists it attracts, prices go up.

“Weekends are the worst. Sometimes you just give up trying to park and walk in from the edge of town.

“It’s great that people visit because it brings life and money in, but it also means locals get squeezed a bit.

“You notice it most when you’re trying to rent or buy. Prices shoot up because everyone wants a piece of it.

“In summer the streets are packed, and you end up avoiding the centre altogether until things quieten down.”

Yet despite these difficulties, it’s simple to understand why countless visitors are enchanted by this location.

Unique independent shops line Market Street, whilst artisan bakeries fill the streets with the aroma of cinnamon, and the surrounding wooded hills transform into brilliant gold during autumn.

Hebden Bridge boasts a remarkable legacy of determination and transformation, evolving from its Victorian textile roots to becoming a sanctuary for creatives, musicians and eco-campaigners.

Shop worker Jess Wild, who relocated here two years ago, explained it’s precisely that artistic, neighbourhood atmosphere that attracted her: “It’s an aesthetically beautiful place, and the shops have a strong sense of community.

“Everyone knows each other, and there’s real warmth here. But there’s not too much diversity in the type of shops, as there are too many eating places catering to tourists. Still, it’s a lovely place to live.”

This delicate equilibrium between appeal and tourism is frequently raised by residents. The proliferation of cafés and eateries has maintained the town’s energy, though some believe this progress has its drawbacks.

“You used to see more quirky little stores,” Jess added. “Now it’s coffee shops and brunch spots. It’s what visitors want, but it changes the feel of the place.

“You can’t blame people for wanting to come, but it changes the atmosphere. When you’ve got crowds lining the canal and queues outside every café, it stops feeling like a small town and more like a weekend attraction. It’s lovely, but it can be a bit much.”

For Paul Anyon, 57, who operates Paul’s Fresh Fish from his market truck every Thursday, transformation has been ongoing: “I’ve been coming here for 24 years, took over from my father who did the same before me,” he said, skillfully wrapping up a piece of haddock for a punter.

“It’s a busy stall in a quiet town, at least it used to be. Over the years, I’ve noticed a lot of southerners moving in. Prices have gone up, but people are paying more to buy from local businesses, and that’s great to see.”

Standing close by, loyal customer John Smith, 65, waits calmly with his glass Tupperware container in hand.

“Paul always tells me what’s good this week,” he said. “You just couldn’t get fish like this from a supermarket.”

His remark captures what makes Hebden Bridge distinctive: a community economy that continues to flourish on individual relationships and confidence. Not everyone here calls it home.

Numerous people, like Michelle and Tim Holroyd, travel in from surrounding areas to experience what Hebden Bridge provides.

“We come about once a month from Halifax,” said Michelle. “We always go to the Old Gate pub; the food’s fantastic. There are great charity shops and antique shops, too.”

Her other half, Tim, chimed in: “We’re both ex-Scouts, so we love walking in the countryside around here. When there are big events on, we take the train instead of driving – it’s easier.”

It’s the surrounding landscape that lends Hebden Bridge its enchanting charm. The moors rise abruptly from the valley, blanketed in heather and intersected by stone paths. It’s no surprise that writer Ted Hughes, who was born nearby, found a wealth of inspiration in these hills.

The town is also celebrated for its alternative spirit, a robust LGBTQ+ community, thriving arts scene, and a reputation as one of the UK’s most forward-thinking small towns.

For 72-year-old David Moody, it’s this blend of natural beauty and neighbourly connection that makes Hebden Bridge unbeatable, even if it sometimes feels too popular for its own good.

“It’s a walker’s paradise,” he said, leaning against a table as he chatted with passers-by about kindness and community.

“The countryside’s beautiful, but there are too many tourists, especially in summer. It gets too busy, and parking is hard to find anywhere.

“Still, I love it here. I’d only ever move south if I won the lottery, and that’d just be for the weather.”

And despite the frustrations, that seems to be the prevailing sentiment, a kind of affectionate exasperation.

Hebden Bridge may have its shortcomings, but its community spirit, natural splendour, and sense of belonging keep residents firmly planted here. Even on a crisp afternoon, the market bustles with animated conversation, cafés are alive with chatter, and the canal towpath is peppered with ramblers and cyclists.

At Little H Café, where sunshine poured through the windows on a surprisingly luminous October day, barista Ellie Sim beamed as she passed over a toasted panini.

“People always think the north is dreary, but it’s been gorgeous all day. Everyone’s in a good mood when the sun comes out,” she said.

Hebden Bridge stands as a tribute to small-town Britain, where stunning countryside meets a fiercely independent character. Even the grumbles about parking, tourists, or an abundance of cafés serve as evidence that people are deeply passionate about the place they call home.

IT’S time to get cozy, with autumn bringing colder weather across the UK.

And one of the best places to escape it is heading straight to the pub for a roast dinner and roaring fire.

We’ve rounded up some of the best across Kent, one of the most popular counties in the UK for a staycation.

From quant historic inns to seafront pubs – here are 17 of the favourites, according to locals.

Rose in June, Margate

Living in Margate for nearly two years, this was where you would find me most Saturday nights.

I rarely left the pub without making new friends, and it was always more locals than tourists, being nearer the quieter end of Margate and the popular Cliftonville area.

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They usually have a rolling change of food being served by a pop up, currently having the delicious Hays Burgers.

Visit in winter and they usually have a delicious mulled cider too.

Old Neptune, Whitstable

Whitstable’s Old Neptune attracts most of the crowds, due to it’s beer garden being on the beach.

But when the weather turns, it still makes for one of the most dramatic views.

Just be ready to squeeze in, as it isn’t the biggest.

Or you can brave the cold and perch on the bench with your pint.

Tiger Inn, Stowting

The Tiger Inn isn’t one you would easily stumble upon, being down some very windy country roads.

And make sure to book ahead – the crammed in tables are cosy but often full and you might not want to brave the pub garden when its cold.

The pub has some of the friendliest staff, as well as a cracking roast dinner.

The Ship Inn, Sandgate

Sandgate is a much quieter option than Folkestone, and one of the best pubs is The Ship Inn.

It looks out over the beach if you manage to grab a table at the back, as well as having an extended area at the top.

Make sure to get the crab roll at lunch although it has a full menu and some delicious local wines on tap.

Or visit on a Thursday for their very fun pub quiz!

The Harbour Inn, Folkestone

If you’re looking for some fresh fish, you can’t get much fresher than The Harbour Inn at Folkestone.

Lots of the dishes are made from anything pulled in by the local trawlers.

It is also connected to the boutique London & Paris hotel, if you need somewhere to stay after one too many.

George & Heart, Margate

The Margate pub has some great history – it’s in a Grade II listed former coaching inn in the Old Town dating back to the 1700s.

The menu is always changing, as they use local produce so it is whatever they have that is fresh.

Along with great pints, it now has a boutique hotel on the top floor.

There is even the ‘Zen Den’ treatment room for some extra wellness.

The Old Buoy, Folkestone

You’ll have to battle for a seat at The Old Buoy, with a just a few tables inside.

But its where you will spot all the locals in the evening, along with extremely friendly bar staff (make sure to try the pizza while there too).

King’s Head, Deal

The Sunday Roast is one of the most unique with a Caribbean twist, complete with jerk-roasted chicken and spicy mash.

You might find you are joined by the local rugby or football club after their match but that just adds to the atmosphere.

You can also stay at the pub as well – there are 14 en-suite rooms just above.

Tickled Trout, Wye

While the Tickled Trout is best visited in the summer due to its riverfront location, it also makes a great spot in Autumn.

The food menu has enough to keep everyone from your dad to the kids happy as well.

New Flying Horse, Wye

Bundle the kids up if they are getting rowdy and send them to the outdoor garden, with food gardens and play house to explore.

It might look retro inside, but the very friendly staff make up for it.

Woolpack Inn, Warehourne

I stumbled upon this pub during a wine tour of Kent, with Warehorne known for its red and white wines.

Not only is the pub cosy and dog-friendly but you can take the kids to see all the grazing sheep outside.

It even has rooms above the pub in case you need somewhere to crash afterwards.

Victoria Pavilion, Ramsgate

You’ be remiss to head to Ramsgate and not visit the Victoria Pavilion, called the world’s largest Wetherspoons.

It has some of the best views in the house, overlooking the beach, and you know you’ll always find a table.

And with Wetherspoons offering some of cheapest pints in the country, it won’t break the bank either.

Fordwich Arms, Canterbury

The Fordwich Arms is one of the fanciest pubs on the list, being Michelin-starred.

But its worth it as a special occasion pub, with five-course tasting menu some of the best food I’ve ever eaten (even down to the fresh bread and whipped butter).

Captain Digby, Broadstairs

You’d be forgiven for not knowing about the Captain Digby, as it’s slightly off the beaten track.

The pub overlooks Kingsgate Bay – a quiet beach loved by locals and away from the crowds, thanks to having no nearby train station.

But when the weather gets too much, walk up the very steep steps for a nice glass of wine at the pub.

Tudor Rose, Sittingbourne

Forget Toby’s – the Tudor Rose pub in Sittingbourne is home to my absolute favourite carveries.

Less than £20 for two courses is a steal – and the roast potatoes are mighty good too.

Three Daws, Gravesend

Old, rickety and quaint are how I’d describe the Three Daws, a cosy spot for a quiet pint in Gravesend which dates back to the 1400s.

It’s right along the River Thames where I’ve spent many an afternoon watching the world pass by along the river.

All while while tucking into one of the best value pub roasts I’ve found in the region.

The Greedy Banker, Rainham

If you’re looking for a decent beer, burger and screens of sport look no further than The Greedy Banker which runs special events throughout the year.

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There’s over a hundred choices of beer and cider to choose from, as well as spirits and wines.

Here are our 35 top pubs in London as well.

SAN FRANCISCO — About 24 hours after President Trump declared San Francisco such a crime-ridden “mess” that he was recommending federal forces be sent to restore order, Manit Limlamai, 43, and Kai Saetern, 32, rolled their eyes at the suggestion.

The pair — both in the software industry — were with friends Thursday in Dolores Park, a vibrant green space with sweeping views of downtown, playing volleyball under a blue sky and shining autumn sun. All around them, people sat on benches with books, flew kites, played with dogs or otherwise lounged away the afternoon on blankets in the grass.

Both Limlamai and Saetern said San Francisco of course has issues, and some rougher neighborhoods — but that’s any city.

“I’ve lived here for 10 years and I haven’t felt unsafe, and I’ve lived all over the city,” Saetern said. “Every city has its problems, and I don’t think San Francisco is any different,” but “it’s not a hellscape,” said Limlamai, who has been in the city since 2021.

Both said Trump’s suggestion that he might send in troops was more alarming than reassuring — especially, Limlamai said, on top of his recent remark that American cities should serve as “training grounds” for U.S. military forces.

“I don’t think that’s appropriate at all,” he said. “The military is not trained to do what needs to be done in these cities.”

Across San Francisco, residents, visitors and prominent local leaders expressed similar ideas — if not much sharper condemnation of any troop deployment. None shied away from the fact that San Francisco has problems, especially with homelessness. Several also mentioned a creeping urban decay, and that the city needs a bit of a polish.

But federal troops? That was a hard no.

A range of people on Market Street in downtown San Francisco on Thursday.

“It’s just more of [Trump’s] insanity,” said Peter Hill, 81, as he played chess in a slightly edgier park near City Hall. Hill said using troops domestically was a fascist power play, and “a bad thing for the entire country.”

“It’s fascism,” agreed local activist Wendy Aragon, who was hailing a cab nearby. Her Latino family has been in the country for generations, she said, but she now fears speaking Spanish on the street given that immigration agents have admitted targeting people who look or sound Latino, and troops in the city would only exacerbate those fears. “My community is under attack right now.”

State Sen. Scott Wiener (D-San Francisco) said troop deployments to the city were “completely unnecessary” and “typical Trump: petty, vindictive retaliation.”

“He wants to attack anyone who he perceives as an enemy, and that includes cities, and so he started with L.A. and Southern California because of its large immigrant community, and then he proceeded to cities with large Black populations like Chicago, and now he’s moving on to cities that are just perceived as very lefty like Portland and now San Francisco,” Wiener said.

Abigail Jackson, a White House spokesperson, defended such deployments and noted crime reductions in cities, including Washington, D.C., and Memphis, where local officials — including D.C. Mayor Muriel Bowser, a Democrat — have embraced them.

“America’s once great cities have descended into chaos and crime as a result of Democrat policies that put criminals first and law-abiding citizens last. Making America Safe Again — especially crime-ridden cities — was a key campaign promise from the President that the American people elected him to fulfill,” Jackson said. “San Francisco Democrats should look at the tremendous results in DC and Memphis and listen to fellow Democrat Mayor Bowser and welcome the President in to clean up their city.”

A police officer shuts the door to his car after a person was allegedly caught carrying a knife near a sign promoting an AI-powered museum exhibit in downtown San Francisco.

A presidential ‘passion’

San Francisco — a bastion of liberal politics that overwhelmingly voted against Trump in the last election — has been derided by the conservative right for generations as a great American jewel lost to destructive progressive policies.

With its tech-heavy economy and downtown core hit hard by the pandemic and the nation’s shift toward remote work, the city has had a particularly rough go in recent years, which only exacerbated its image as a city in decline. That it produced some of Trump’s most prominent political opponents — including Gov. Gavin Newsom and former Vice President Kamala Harris — has only made it more of a punching bag.

In August, Trump suggested San Francisco needed federal intervention. “You look at what the Democrats have done to San Francisco — they’ve destroyed it,” he said in the Oval Office. “We’ll clean that one up, too.”

Then, earlier this month, to the chagrin of liberal leaders across the city, Marc Benioff, the billionaire Salesforce founder and Time magazine owner who has long been a booster of San Francisco, said in an interview with the New York Times that he supported Trump and welcomed Guard troops in the city.

“We don’t have enough cops, so if they can be cops, I’m all for it,” Benioff said, just as his company was preparing to open its annual Dreamforce convention in the city, complete with hundreds of private security officers.

The U.S. Constitution generally precludes military forces from serving in police roles in the U.S.

On Friday, Benioff reversed himself and apologized for his earlier stance. “Having listened closely to my fellow San Franciscans and our local officials, and after the largest and safest Dreamforce in our history, I do not believe the National Guard is needed to address safety in San Francisco,” he wrote on X.

He also apologized for “the concern” his earlier support for troops in the city had caused, and praised San Francisco’s new mayor, Daniel Lurie, for bringing crime down.

Billionaire Elon Musk, the chief executive of Tesla, also called for federal intervention in the city, writing on his X platform that downtown San Francisco is “a drug zombie apocalypse” and that federal intervention was “the only solution at this point.”

Trump made his latest remarks bashing San Francisco on Wednesday, again from the Oval Office.

Trump said it was “one of our great cities 10 years ago, 15 years ago,” but “now it’s a mess” — and that he was recommending federal forces move into the city to make it safer. “I’m gonna be strongly recommending — at the request of government officials, which is always nice — that you start looking at San Francisco,” he said to leading members of his law enforcement team.

Trump did not specify exactly what sort of deployment he meant, or which kinds of federal forces might be involved. He also didn’t say which local officials had allegedly requested help — a claim Wiener called a lie.

“Every American deserves to live in a community where they’re not afraid of being mugged, murdered, robbed, raped, assaulted or shot, and that’s exactly what our administration is working to deliver,” Trump said, before adding that sending federal forces into American cities had become “a passion” of his.

Kai Saetern, 32, was playing volleyball in Dolores Park on Thursday. Saetern said he has never felt unsafe living in neighborhoods all over the city for the last 10 years.

Crime is down citywide

The responses from San Francisco, both to Benioff and Trump, came swiftly, ranging from calm discouragement to full-blown outrage.

Lurie did not respond directly, but his office pointed reporters to his recent statements that crime is down 30% citywide, homicides are at a 70-year low, car break-ins are at a 22-year low and tent encampments are at their lowest number on record.

“We have a lot of work to do,” Lurie said. “But I trust our local law enforcement.”

San Francisco Dist. Atty. Brooke Jenkins was much more fiery, writing online that Trump and Homeland Security Secretary Kristi Noem had turned “so-called public safety and immigration enforcement into a form of government sponsored violence against U.S. citizens, families, and ethnic groups,” and that she stood ready to prosecute federal officers if they harm city residents.

Attendees exit the Dreamforce convention downtown on Thursday in San Francisco.

“If you come to San Francisco and illegally harass our residents … I will not hesitate to do my job and hold you accountable just like I do other violators of the law every single day,” she said.

Rep. Nancy Pelosi (D-San Francisco) — whose seat Wiener is reportedly going to seek — said the city “does not want or need Donald Trump’s chaos” and will continue to increase public safety locally and “without the interference of a President seeking headlines.”

Newsom said the use of federal troops in American cities is a “clear violation” of federal law, and that the state was prepared to challenge any such deployment to San Francisco in court, just as it challenged such deployments in Los Angeles earlier this year.

The federal appellate court that oversees California and much of the American West has so far allowed troops to remain in L.A., but is set to continue hearing arguments in the L.A. case soon.

Trump had used anti-immigration enforcement protests in L.A. as a justification to send troops there. In San Francisco, Newsom said, he lacks any justification or “pretext” whatsoever.

“There’s no existing protest at a federal building. There’s no operation that’s being impeded. I guess it’s just a ‘training ground’ for the President of United States,” Newsom said. “It is grossly illegal, it’s immoral, it’s rather delusional.”

Nancy DeStefanis, 76, a longtime labor and environmental activist who was at San Francisco City Hall on Thursday to complain about Golden Gate Park being shut to regular visitors for paid events, was similarly derisive of troops entering the city.

“As far as I’m concerned, and I think most San Franciscans are concerned, we don’t want troops here. We don’t need them,” she said.

Passengers walk past a cracked window from the Civic Center BART station in downtown San Francisco.

‘An image I don’t want to see’

Not far away, throngs of people wearing Dreamforce lanyards streamed in and out of the Moscone Center, heading back and forth to nearby Market Street and pouring into restaurants, coffee shops and take-out joints. The city’s problems — including homelessness and associated grittiness — were apparent at the corners of the crowds, even as chipper convention ambassadors and security officers moved would-be stragglers along.

Not everyone was keen to be identified discussing Trump or safety in the city, with some citing business reasons and others a fear of Trump retaliating against them. But lots of people had opinions.

Sanjiv, a self-described “techie” in his mid-50s, said he preferred to use only his first name because, although he is a U.S. citizen now, he emigrated from India and didn’t want to stick his neck out by publicly criticizing Trump.

He called homelessness a “rampant problem” in San Francisco, but less so than in the past — and hardly something that would justify sending in military troops.

“It’s absolutely ridiculous,” he said. “It’s not like the city’s under siege.”

Claire Roeland, 30, from Austin, Texas, said she has visited San Francisco a handful of times in recent years and had “mixed” experiences. She has family who live in surrounding neighborhoods and find it completely safe, she said, but when she’s in town it’s “predominantly in the business district” — where it’s hard not to be disheartened by the obvious suffering of people with addiction and mental illness and the grime that has accumulated in the emptied-out core.

“There’s a lot of unfortunate urban decay happening, and that makes you feel more unsafe than you actually are,” she said, but there isn’t “any realistic need to send in federal troops.”

She said she doesn’t know what troops would do other than confront homeless people, and “that’s an image I don’t want to see.”

Times staff writer Dakota Smith contributed to this report.

This seaside town has a reputation for being one of the country’s most expensive but I was forced to second-guess my assumptions

When I arrived at this seaside town, I expected the usual trappings of a millionaire’s coastal enclave: quiet streets, immaculate homes and the faint sense that everything is just a little too polished. After all, this New Forest harbour town is one of the most expensive coastal spots in Britain, with average house prices more than double the national average at £600,000, Express reports.

I was expecting it to be the kind of place where second homes outnumber locals, where the shops sell handmade dog treats, and where residents drive the kind of cars that never seem to gather dust. But as I wandered its cobbled streets and Georgian lanes, it became clear that Lymington in Hampshire doesn’t fit that stereotype.

For all its quiet wealth and picture-perfect charm, the town felt unexpectedly alive. What surprised me most wasn’t the grandeur of the homes or the sparkle of the Solent. It was the sense of community that seemed to ripple through everything. Even in a place where many doors stay closed for much of the year, there’s warmth and connection that you can feel as soon as you arrive.

Taking a stroll down the High Street on market day, the stretch of road transforms into a bustling corridor of colour and conversation. Locals chat across stalls piled high with artisan bread, handmade soaps and the day’s catch from the nearby quay. There’s the smell of roasted coffee from one of the independent cafes and the sound of a busker’s guitar drifting between the Georgian facades.

Down by the quay, children crouch on the old stone walls, dangling lines and bacon rinds into the water in hopes of catching crabs. The chatter of families mixes with the clang of yacht masts in the marina. Behind them, pubs like The Ship Inn and The Mayflower are full with people swapping stories over pints, as they’ve done for generations.

A few streets away, tucked behind the main road, small galleries and bookshops hum with quiet trade. And that’s the contradiction that makes Lymington fascinating. There’s no denying that many homes sit empty for large parts of the year. Walk along Captain’s Row or past the elegant townhouses near Bath Road, and you’ll spot drawn curtains and pristine gardens with not a footprint in sight. Yet somehow, the town refuses to feel hollow. Residents talk about the issue openly.

“It’s frustrating,” admits Adam Stote, 55, who recently downsized to a smaller property near the river. “We all wish more homes were lived in full-time. But the people who are here, we make up for it. There’s a real community and everyone looks out for each other.”

Part of that may come from the setting itself. The Solent glitters on one side, the New Forest rolls in from the other, and in between, Lymington feels cocooned, almost self-contained. It’s a place where the pace slows, where people stop to talk, and where heritage feels more like a habit than a history lesson.

Unlike other luxury coastal enclaves, the flash of Sandbanks, the celebrity polish of Salcombe, Lymington’s wealth whispers rather than shouts. Residents here seem to gladly trade glistening supercars and infinity pools for sea salt-dusted climbing ivy on weathered bricks. This difference adds to the town’s traditional character, from the quirky antique shops to the long-running St Barbe Museum and community theatre. Even the famous seawater baths, dating back to the 19th century, are run by locals who fought to keep them open.

Of course, Lymington isn’t perfect. The housing market prices out young families and parking is an eternal headache. As I walked back toward the train station, the tide was slipping out of the harbour and the sky had turned gold over the masts. It may be one of the most expensive seaside towns in Britain, but it’s also one of the few that still feels like a community first, and a postcard second.

The English Riviera is a 22-mile stretch of the South Devon coast with Torquay at its northern end. It’s sometimes compared to the French Riviera, but it’s a very different place

Stand on the promenade of this legendary seaside resort when the weather’s pleasant, and you could easily mistake yourself for being somewhere on the Mediterranean rather than in Britain. Lines of palm trees flutter in the wind, waves gently wash onto an expansive sandy shore and gleaming art-deco structures perch on the hillside overhead.

Take a closer look, though, and there are telltale signs you’re actually on the English coast rather than somewhere along the French Riviera. Reach reporter Milo Boyd is pretty sure traditional fish and chip outlets, seaside souvenir shops and penny arcade machines aren’t common sights along the Côte d’Azur.

And whilst a typical July afternoon in this Devon resort of 50,000 residents reaches around 20C with some cloud cover, the French Riviera basks in 29C temperatures with glorious sunshine and clear blue skies.

Parallels drawn between the Devon shoreline and the glamorous French destination date back to Victorian times, when tourists likened the mild microclimate and stunning landscape of Torbay – a 22-mile section of the South Devon coast with Torquay at its northern tip – to the 186 miles of the original Riviera.

Whilst the French Riviera sometimes faces criticism for being overly warm, rather posh, and costly, Torquay regularly receives brutal assessments of an entirely different nature.

Actually, it appears to attract an unfair share of criticism, reports Devon Live.

Last year, a Which? survey declared Torquay as Brits’ most disliked seaside destination, whilst The Telegraph ranked it as their 13th most disappointing coastal location.

Even one of Milo’s taxi drivers couldn’t resist having a dig, branding the high street as a “dump”. The decision-making process of these competition judges is a mystery to him, and their lack of taste in coastal spots is evident.

After a weekend getaway in Torbay, Milo was captivated and intrigued by Torquay, a seaside town unlike any other he has encountered in the UK.

Food and drink in Torquay

One of the town’s most appealing and tasty features is its food. Sure, you can find the traditional cod and chips every 10m along the seafront as you would in most UK seaside towns, but Torquay has much more to offer.

Milo had the good fortune to get a quick tour of the town’s food scene through an invitation to the 7 Chefs event on 4 October. Over seven hours, guests are treated to seven different seafood dishes, each crafted by a different chef and served in a different independent restaurant.

This annual event is highly sought after, making stops at the Michelin-starred Elephant for some braised octopus, the sibling-run Ollie’s for a generous lobster thermidor, delicately prepared oysters at No. 7 Fish Bistro and Offshore for its unique take on mussels with katsu.

If you fancy indulging in top-quality seafood and British-produced wines, then this event is perfect for you.

It might only happen once annually and set you back £120, but you’ll require a solid 364 days to recover after tackling diver-caught scallops at The Yacht, a generous helping of fish and chips at Pier Point, and cheese with far too much port at Twenty1 Lounge.

“Lightweight,” one of my fellow foodie companions shouted after me as he ordered another couple of reds for good measure, whilst Milo hauled his aching frame into a taxi.

The event also runs in Brixham on the opposite side of the bay.

The vibrant, boutique village houses one of England’s largest fishing markets and restaurants, including Olive, The Prince William, and The Mermaid, where many of the 40 fish and shellfish varieties landed here are consumed.

‘The Queen of the English Riviera’

Torquay is often dubbed ‘the Queen of the English Riviera’, and rightfully so.

On a bright day, the magnificent art deco properties crown the hillside overlooking the bay, sparkling in the sunlight like gems in a tiara.

Torbay lies just beyond the western tip of the Jurassic Coast and comprises Devonian limestones intersected with red ochre deposits.

These form a intricate landscape featuring elements like the wave-carved Berry Head platform and natural caves. On a Sunday afternoon, Milo was given a tour by Nigel Smallbones, the ranger at Berry Head Nature Reserve for 27 years.

He showed Milo the roosting spot of a 1,600-strong guillemot colony, the cave system where his son monitors the 56 resident horseshoe bats, and explained how rock enthusiasts travel from as far as China to appreciate the geology.

A short half-hour drive around the bay led me to Kents Cavern – a prehistoric cave system unearthed by some tough Victorians. It’s an awe-inspiring place that continues to yield significant scientific discoveries, including the jawbone of a Neolithic girl likely devoured by cave hyenas, and a colossal bear skull.

If exploring a cavern filled with stalagmites and stalactites isn’t your cup of tea, just up the road lies a piece of British comedy history – the hotel that inspired John Cleese’s Fawlty Towers. Perhaps due to its somewhat infamous association, the hotel has since been replaced by a block of flats and a commemorative blue plaque.

One stark difference between the Rivieras is their approach to drinking. Milo was genuinely taken aback and impressed by the amount his fellow restaurant-goers consumed, and how some managed to stomach a full English breakfast on a sunrise boat trip the next morning.

Such passion and resilience would be hard to find on the French Riviera.

Locals he spoke with admitted that Torquay’s nightlife isn’t what it used to be, with several mourning the loss of two clubs that once offered unlimited drinks for under a tenner.

Nevertheless, the party atmosphere endures through the 1,200-capacity Arena Torquay, which is hosting an Ibiza throwback evening next week, alongside a string of bars along the quayside.

With roaming packs of stag and hen parties, some donning lederhosen in honour of Oktoberfest, Torquay remains regarded as a cracking spot for a night out.

Devon’s temperate climate and breezy conditions mean its flourishing vineyard industry creates light, refreshing wines that complement seafood perfectly – a fortunate match.

Torquay also boasts several gin distilleries.

Laurance Traverso, director of the Coastal Distillery Co, served me a delightful G&T from his waterside headquarters.

So what’s behind the animosity?

There’s undoubtedly a segment of the British public that simply doesn’t rate Torquay.

If you rock up for a family break and have the bad luck of being drenched for seven days straight, Milo can see their point.

Some townsfolk have grown fed up with the high street and how districts beyond the seafront and tourist hotspots have deteriorated.

Local Sophie Ellis-Marsden revealed: “I avoid that end of town. I don’t have much nice to say, to be honest. The waterfront is lovely, and that’s the only thing that is.

“It’s nice, don’t get me wrong, I moved here from Milton Keynes for the sea, but it needs more work. More shops just seem to be shutting down. Everything’s gone, and I don’t really know why.”

The local authority appears determined to tackle these problems head-on.

Significant investment has already been made, with much more planned for the future.

The Strand at the harbourside has been transformed into a piazza-style promenade, featuring expanded pedestrian zones for dining and seating, plus improved public transport connections.

A former Debenhams department store is earmarked for demolition, to be replaced with new homes, cafés, restaurants, and an upmarket hotel.

Additional proposals are in the works for the town centre, along with further development at The Strand, which the council estimated would create approximately 80 full-time jobs, £32 million in wages, and attract 86,000 new visitors over a 30-year period.

The total cost of the scheme is reported to be £70 million.