lived

I lived in 3 Spanish towns – one little-known gem is among ‘cleanest’ in Europe

I spent my childhood in Spain, and while many UK travellers opt for the likes of Majorca and Tenerife, there’s one northern town that’s a true hidden gem.

I spent a large chunk of my childhood and teenage years in Spain, having moved from Argentina when I was just six. Marbella was the first Spanish city I called home – and it was absolutely delightful. It offered warm weather, stunning beaches, and plenty of options for outdoor play with other children.

Relocating from Marbella to the Mediterranean town of Denia during my teenage years might not seem like a significant shift, as both places offer similar conditions. However, sandwiched between these two coastal locations, I spent a few years, specifically from age eight to 12, in the pristine northern town of Oviedo.

Northern Spain is quite distinct from the southern holiday hotspots or the island resorts of Mallorca and Tenerife. For starters, the north is much cooler, greener and culturally more reserved, with locals still deeply rooted in their traditions. That’s why Oviedo, while less famous than most regional capitals, possesses such an enchanting allure.

Oviedo’s public spaces are well-kept, virtually free of litter and brimming with unexpected historical landmarks. One such sight is the imposing Cathedral of San Salvador, which is considered one of Spain’s most significant Christian pilgrimage sites, even predating Santiago de Compostela’s rise to prominence.

It’s one of the traditional stops for pilgrims taking the Camino Primitivo, the oldest known route of the Camino de Santiago.

Due to its characteristically wet climate, Oviedo boasts lush greenery throughout, featuring numerous parks and the cherished central Campo de San Francisco, where locals love to wander leisurely and meet for coffee.

Asturias’ capital also represents a culinary paradise, offering substantial fare in warm, inviting establishments perfect for recuperating after adventures like ascending nearby Monte Naranco to discover pre-Romanesque structures whilst gazing over the city, or exploring the Las Ubiñas-La Mesa natural reserve.

The region’s most celebrated dish, Fabada, consists of a substantial bean casserole (fabes) accompanied by meat, sausage and morcilla.

Though served in remarkably abundant, satisfying portions, diners frequently follow it with cachopo, an enormous breaded veal creation stuffed with cheese and ham.

Tierra Astur restaurant has earned recognition over many years for delivering exceptional cachopo.

Whilst southern Spain attracts European visitors as a renowned beer hotspot, Asturias revolves around cider traditions.

Oviedo’s Calle Gascona earns recognition as the “Boulevard of Cider” where unpretentious, tavern-style sidrerías provide genuine sidra (cider), served from an elevated position using the traditional “escanciado” technique.

Establishments Casa Fermín, Casa Lobato and Del Arco rank amongst the city’s finest dining venues for experiencing local specialities, whilst NM by Nacho Manzano specialises in sophisticated, contemporary Asturian gastronomy with meticulous craftsmanship. Asturias, a farming region, is renowned for its top-notch homegrown produce, including over 40 varieties of cheese (most notably Cabrales, a potent blue-veined type with DOP status), high-quality beef reared on mountain pastures, and artisan preserves made from local apples, pears and wild berries.

Local bakeries and desserts provide another reason to wander the old town – Asturian treats may be rustic in appearance but they’re extraordinary in taste. The carbayón, a rich almond-filled puff pastry glazed with syrup, typically found at Camilo de Blas in Oviedo, is the most iconic.

Another local favourite is the moscovita, a delicate almond biscuit coated in chocolate, originally from the historic Rialto bakery. Restaurants often serve rich, homemade options such as a local, creamier version of rice pudding, casadielles (deep-fried pastry rolls filled with a mixture of walnuts, sugar, and aniseed), and frixuelos, a crêpes-style dish typically filled with sugar, jam, or cream and rolled up.

The Old Town (Casco Histórico) is ideal for a walking holiday, with the Cathedral and Calle Uría offering the city’s hustle and bustle. For quieter stays, consider places slightly off Calle Mon or Postigo Bajo.

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‘I thought NYC would be brutal on my wallet but I lived the high life on a budget’

Can you really visit one of New York’s most upmarket borough’s on a budget? I visited this wallet-friendly hotel and felt like I was staying in a boutique haven.

When I arrived in upmarket New York City neighbourhood Chelsea to see the sprawling streets of flower markets, trendy art galleries and Madison Square Garden in eyeshot, I had a feeling this trip wasn’t going to be kind on my wallet.

But the hidden gem hotel I stayed in showed me that you don’t always have to choose between luxury and sticking to a budget. Nestled between the string of flower stalls gracing 28th St, the Moxy Chelsea hotel blends in almost too well—with greenery surrounding the entrance and a structure to match its neighbours. You would be forgiven for missing it despite its towering 35-floor height.

With rates from $189 (£141) per night, the four-star Moxy Chelsea – one of the brand’s five hotels across the city – sits right in the competitive price point for the city, which has an average of $300 per night for a hotel stay.

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Moxy Chelsea exterior shot
Moxy Chelsea is located on an unassuming street in the heart of Chelsea, nestled between countless flower markets

The hotel doesn’t pretend to have all the bells and whistles, with a modern check-in area replacing a typical hotel lobby and a grab-and-go style café, Café d’Avignon, serving breakfast rather than a kitchen serving up full American fry-ups. However, guests do get a $25 voucher to spend at the café, which will get you a cappuccino or one of their fresh baked goods. The almond croissant and banana bread were personal favourites.

With a contemporary design and gorgeous interiors across the building, it was easy to forget I wasn’t in a luxury hotel, with a boutique feel throughout.

Stepping into our King View room certainly felt luxurious, with floor-to-ceiling windows allowing me to have a full view of Manhattan’s skyscrapers from the bed. New York isn’t known for its large hotel rooms, and the Moxy doubles down on this with more compact rooms than you’d usually find on holiday.

But what it lacks in size, the room makes up for in detail without feeling cramped. The rooms have a deconstructed bathroom design, which means the sink—doubling as a vanity—is in the main room, while the shower and toilet are side by side and separated by sliding doors.

kenzi devine at Moxy hotel rooftop bar
The hotel’s rooftop bar felt far from budget, with stunning interiors and an extensive list of cocktails, light bites and wines

Mitchell Hochberg, the architect who designed the hotel, told me that he refused to go budget on the small details. “The things we didn’t scrimp on were the shower, which we made sure was high pressure and good quality, and the beds. The bedding is the same quality used in the Ritz-Carlton,” he said.

With plenty of vibrant touches, such as a vintage telephone that tells bedtime stories and bottle openers attached to the doors, I doubt you’d find that at the Ritz.

While they offer comfort and hard-to-beat views, the hotel rooms aren’t somewhere you’d entertain and serve as more of a crash pad in the city. But the rest of the hotel has plenty going on to make sure you don’t need to leave.

I visited at the end of July, which meant the hotel was bustling with guests and summertime activities. With constant events such as drag bingo, paint and sip nights, pizza parties, and DJ performances, Moxy Chelsea has enough going on to keep you busy every night.

The Fleur Room Moxy Chelsea
As well as hotel guests, the rooftop bar is popular amongst locals for post-work drinks, with a view of the Empire State Building and nightly DJ sets

One thing I noticed while walking around the hotel was its popularity with locals, who pop in and out to use the several on-site bars. I headed up to The Fleur Room, Moxy Chelsea’s 360-rooftop, to find plenty of New Yorkers enjoying after-work drinks and cocktails. All with the Empire State Building in eyeshot.

Despite the hotel’s low price point, you can experience a touch of luxury at The Fleur Room, which offers upmarket cocktails, champagne, and well-known wines such as Whispering Angel. The venue, which has a separate entrance to the main hotel for non-guests, has even served the NFL and A-list guests for events.

Then there’s the first-floor bar, which doubles as a work-from-home space for nearby residents to come and work from, with meeting rooms and plug sockets all around the relaxed bar area.

After arriving at the hotel, I decided to take in my surroundings with a walk around the block, and was surprised to stumble across Madison Square Garden and foodie haven Chelsea Market less than 10 minutes after leaving, with Times Square less than 20 minutes away.

My jet lag meant that I was heading to the nearby Starbucks at 5am every morning, which turned into a positive as I managed to catch the flower wholesalers unpacking for the day on my doorstep. They transformed the whole street into a carpet of gorgeous blooms.

My stay at Moxy Chelsea left me with a newfound love for the borough and the realisation that you don’t need to spend your life savings to have a taste of the high life in the city that never sleeps.

Book it

Moxy Chelsea room rates start at $189 (£141) per night. Book at moxychelsea.com

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‘I lived in pretty Spanish town for years and Brits still don’t know it exists’

I lived in this beautiful Spanish town, likened to Venice, for seven year – and Brits are missing out on this hidden gem in the Costa Brava

View of the canals with boats moored in Empuriabrava, Spain at sunrise.
Empuriabrava was once my home, and this is why you should visit it(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)

My best teenage years were spent in a beautiful town called Empuriabrava in southern Spain. Although I haven’t lived there as long as I’ve been in London, I still remember it with a lot of love – and if you ever have the chance, you should visit it. It’ll make the perfect holiday, and I’m here to tell you why.

Two hours away from Barcelona, a destination I also called my home for a while, lies Empuriabrava. It’s a little town with 8,000 residents but a lot to offer. Some call it the “Venice of Spain”, but it has a completely different vibe.

It can be found in the Costa Brava, and although there’s a lot of tranquillity during the colder months, the summer welcomes thousands of visitors from all over the peninsula and neighbouring countries. Shockingly, despite its small population, Empuriabrava welcomes an estimated 80,000 people during the peak season.

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This is a view of the beach at Empuriabrava.
Empuriabrava, Girona, offers the tranquillity and adrenaline (Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)

Empuriabrava is a unique coastal town in Catalonia, known for its large residential marina system in Europe and the world with more than 25 miles of canals. Sailing around the town is the most popular activity, seeing the different houses. Plus, it’s a fun method of transport to get around.

Besides the waters surrounding the area with stunning homes, it’s also a popular destination for those seeking to take part in water sports and outdoor adventures. People can also relax by the beach, with bars and restaurants being easily accessible.

Empuriabrava also offers the chance to make your dreams come true by skydiving over the most beautiful views. Jumping on a plane at 4,000 metres above sea level, it’s the best way to see the town’s unique shape. There’s also a friendly indoor skydiving tunnel offering the same adrenaline.

Besides the fact that it’s one of the most attractive tourist destinations in Costa Brava – at least for me – it’s also one of the few towns where you can peacefully walk without big crowds. Yes, the perfect summer retreat for those seeking relaxation while enjoying the many amenities offered for locals and tourists alike.

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High angle view of Empuriabrava, the harbour entrance, the bay of Rosas and the city of Rosas across the bay in the background.
Empuriabrava, Girona, is known for its large residential marina system in Europe and the world with more than 25 miles of canals(Image: Getty Images)

Due to Empuriabrava’s tiny size, visitors can practically see and do everything in one day. However, the Costa Brava is dotted with other hidden corners and towns that are worth visiting whilst there, including Castelló d’Empúries, Figueres, Roses, and Cadaqués. Each place offers a unique experience that you shouldn’t miss out on.

There are various ways to get to Empuriabrava, but the most convenient is taking the train. The nearest station (RENFE) is in Figueres, which is nine miles away from the town. From there, some buses will take you straight to Empuriabrava – and during the summer, they are more frequent.

The town is surrounded with a lot of history and a lot of my best memories. Despite living in London for more than a decade, there’s no other place I would recommend visiting if you’re seeking a different experience rather than the typical overcrowded city environment.

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