The town boasts a 98.7% cleanliness rate and beautiful beaches, yet remains one of the UK’s least visited destinations given its charm
One of the UK’s most remote and least visited towns is also one of its cleanest.
Lerwick, located in Shetland, is not only a stunning and secluded spot but also an exceptionally clean one. Recently, Lerwick was crowned as Scotland’s cleanest place, impressing judges with its pristine streets and well-maintained public spaces.
This town of 7,000 residents is the northernmost major settlement within the United Kingdom, nestled on the south-eastern edge of the archipelago. I had the good fortune to visit Lerwick when the second coronavirus lockdown restrictions were lifted – my first holiday after a peculiar and stressful two years. The journey there was no easy feat, and it remains challenging today.
While you can catch one of the few Loganair flights from Scottish airports to Sumburgh Airport, a more romantic, eco-friendly but undoubtedly lengthier alternative is to take the Northlink ferry from Aberdeen. We journeyed through the pitch-black night, tossed about by the formidable swell of the North Sea, reports the Express.
Without the aid of some potent over-the-counter seasickness tablets, I wouldn’t have slept a wink. But it would’ve been worth it. The town that emerged on the horizon, as the morning darkness lifted, was unlike any I’ve seen in the UK.
In fact, from a distance, I would’ve mistaken Lerwick for a town on the Norwegian or Swedish coasts if it’d appeared in a game of Geoguessr. However, as we neared the shore, the distinct Scottish character was unmistakable. Rows of dark grey houses and higgledy-piggledy 18th-century buildings adorned the seafront, with cobblestone streets weaving between them.
The locals of Lerwick are no strangers to solitude and self-sufficiency. The town’s first significant electricity supply was switched on in 1953, a good half-century after London. The tempestuous, capricious seas often lead to last-minute cancellations of cargo and passenger ships, sometimes for days or even weeks during the winter months. It’s during this season that one might feel the urge to escape the islands.
The relentless wind and perpetual chill classify Shetland as having a subpolar climate. Sunshine graces the islands merely 13% of the year, and when it does make an appearance, it seldom brings warmth. In fact, the highest temperature ever recorded in Shetland was a mere 25.8°C in 1991 – a full 15C below the UK record.
It’s somewhat tragic, considering the breathtaking beauty of Shetland’s beaches. One morning during our visit, we drove over a headland and gazed down into a bay where hundreds of seals were lounging on a long sandy arc under the feeble sunshine.
Had I not known it would turn my toes to ice, I would’ve stripped off and dived into the tropical-looking, bright blue waters. Shetland, known for its frequent rainfall and seal population, is also home to a wealth of sheep. Our visit in springtime was marked by the sight of frolicking lambs dotting the island.
We were fortunate enough to spot a newborn lamb that had fallen into a deep coastal hole, unable to scramble back up to its anxious mother. But fear not, little one.
My brave pal Joe was ready to descend and rescue the adorable woolly creature. While he may have violated David Attenborough’s ‘let nature take its course’ rule, Joe did manage to snap some Tinder-worthy photos from the adventure.
Situated further north than Saint Petersburg and three out of four Nordic capitals, and on par with Anchorage in Alaska, Lerwick experiences summer nights that never fully darken. Indeed, even at midnight, the sun seems poised to peek over the horizon, bathing the area in a soft twilight.
In stark contrast, winter days offer less than six hours of full daylight.
This is why Shetlanders have created traditions aimed at dispelling the gloomy darkness of winter nights. Their most renowned tradition is Up Helly Aa, a torchlit parade featuring groups of costumed participants, known as guizers, which culminates in the burning of a replica Viking galley.
This deliberate mayhem is, as you might anticipate from such a tidy community, swiftly followed by a thorough clean-up operation. Statistics published last year confirmed Shetland as Scotland’s cleanest location, achieving an almost flawless rating.
Keep Scotland Beautiful’s figures demonstrated that Shetland secured a 98.7 per cent cleanliness score, dethroning neighbouring Orkney from first place.
Brian Rae, operations manager at Keep Scotland Beautiful, said: “Our team of expert auditors carry out annual local environmental quality surveys at a random selection of sites across Scotland every year to monitor issues such as litter, dog fouling, fly-tipping, flyposting and graffiti. We have worked closely with colleagues at Shetland Islands Council, and the many hundreds of volunteers who take part in Da Voar Redd Up annually, and I’d like to thank them all for their efforts to keep Scotland beautiful.”
Yet despite its numerous attractions, the distance involved and unpredictable climate mean comparatively few visitors actually reach Shetland. Last year saw 89,000 people complete the trip.
Whilst this figure represents an increase of 9,000 from the post-pandemic year of 2019, the islands’ appeal, intrigue and spotlessly clean environment surely deserve far greater recognition.