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I took my kids to Lapland on the Santa Claus Express – but would the big man deliver? | Lapland holidays

Christmas was only a few days away and the Finnish capital of Helsinki was ringing with festive cheer as we explored the Tuomaan Markkinat in Senate Square, sipping from mugs of hot, spicy glögi (mulled wine), and biting into joulutorttu (jam-filled puff pastries shaped like catherine wheels). A cold front had brought abundant snow and inhaling was rather painful at -8C, but nothing could still the tremble of excitement.

Along with my husband and two young daughters, I was here to take the Santa Claus Express to the northern city of Rovaniemi, the heart of Finnish Lapland – and the “official” home of Father Christmas. A regular commuter train for the rest of the year, come late November the Santa Claus Express is Finnish Railways’ flagship service, offering the ultimate sleeper-train adventure. As I checked my watch and announced it was finally time to make our way to Helsinki central station, the girls were pink in the cheeks, eyes sparkling from all the surrounding golden lights.

Inaugurated in 1919, the edifice of the majestic art nouveau station swept over us as our footsteps echoed beneath its arches, the ceiling hung with neoclassical chandeliers.

Our train was almost 20 minutes late and the anticipation was palpable as passengers shifted from one fur-trimmed boot to the other, a mass of parkas and puffer jackets milling around. Bobble-hatted children glanced hopefully at every train entering the station, their breath twisting up on the air. This is a bucket-list trip filled with snowscapes, perky elves, reindeer rides, husky sledding and northern lights, but I was quietly terrified that something might go wrong: a cancellation perhaps or a lengthy weather delay.

Helsinki central railway station. Photograph: Ryhor Bruyeu/Alamy

Then, at 7.45pm precisely, the Santa Claus Express appeared, red tail lamps blazing as it reversed in through the darkness, and my fears were allayed.

As a child, this train would have fulfilled my every dream. But who was I kidding? As an adult it still did. The green and white doubledecker, with Santa’s jolly face painted on the side, came to a standstill, the doors hissed open and we tumbled on board, clambering upstairs to our compartment. On one side were bunks and on the other an en suite toilet that converted to a shower area. With hot water, underfloor heating and a window seat to watch nature’s slideshow playing outside, it was perfect.

Up to the age of 10, children travel for free as long as they share a berth with another passenger, and the berths were wide enough for my husband and me to top and tail with the girls. I’ve travelled on more than 100 sleeper trains over the last 15 years, and this was the finest I’d yet found.

To hoots of delight and feet thumping along the corridors, we stashed bags and headed for the restaurant car, where a large family was already crammed into one booth, watching the movie Elf dubbed into Portuguese. Tinsel was wound up the brass bars, mistletoe peeked out from the backs of banquettes and the windows were sprayed with snow, the glass already steamed up. The aroma of home-cooking filled the car and a waitress soon arrived with a bowl of reindeer stew and two dishes of meatballs and mash (80,000 portions of which are sold every year according to the railways’ website).

The writer and her family on the Santa Claus Express

“What meat is this?” my elder daughter asked, dangling a piece of smoked reindeer into her mouth like a Roman ruler. It was a moment I’d been dreading. How could I tell her they were wolfing down the protagonist of their favourite Christmas song?

“Well,” I said, “in Finland they eat lots of different things depending on what they can grow and farm, and this is … reindeer.”

She shrugged and finished the bowl just as I noticed the train was on the move, the twinkle of the city already giving way to woods, branches sagging under the weight of snow.

Aware that other families were waiting to dine, we grudgingly gave up our booth and squeezed through what was starting to feel like a pub on New Year’s Eve, beer spilling on to tables amid the warmth and cheer of strangers exchanging stories and jokes.

Back in our compartment, the girls were soon tucked in. The train was strikingly smooth, barely a hum detectable over the sounds of parents yelling at their kids through the air vents. As the girls slept soundly, and my husband read, I sat at the window searching the darkness. Black lakes flashed under street lamps, sheets of ice dusty between skinny branches. From the little pull-down seat I could see how fragmented Finland’s landscape was: a mass of islands, lakes and forests locked together.

Cabins with igloo roofs at the Apukka resort beneath the northern lights

It was a worthwhile venture scouring the scene, watching walkers with their dogs, locking eyes with late-night smokers on their balconies, and spotting wreaths hanging on doorways. A single fox darted across a car park and I wondered what it might feel like to travel into the polar darkness. Tomorrow there would be no sunrise, so I left the blind up and climbed into bed.

The train drew into Rovaniemi just after 7am and we were soon at the Apukka resort, a collection of igloo-style cabins built around a lake. While husky rides and petting reindeer were high on the list, Santa Claus Village, which is on the Arctic Circle line, was our first port of call and we were soon in a queue curling up and around a staircase towards the magical wooden grotto.

I’d dreamed about this moment since becoming a parent. Bringing my children to meet the big man, watching their mouths fall open with joy. In reality, the girls had spent the last half hour grumbling about being bored and pinching each other, and I was now gripping their wrists and mouthing threats through gritted teeth. My elder daughter was also unconvinced about Santa’s identity. “It was Sophie’s dad, Steve,” she had said after the previous year’s school winter fair. How could they not see how special this moment was? On the verge of tears, I pulled the girls apart and eventually we made it to the front of the queue.

The writer’s daughters meet a man with an unfeasibly large beard in the Santa Claus Village

Inside, two elves were setting up their camera and I looked across to where Santa was sitting in a chair, knee-length beard and giant felt boots in place. He smiled over pince-nez and beckoned the girls, who had fallen silent. Exchanging looks, they shyly sat down. This was a Santa who was authentic enough to make me a believer again. He asked if he could visit in a few days, and they nodded, accepting two gift bags and waving. Outside, they pulled out two plush reindeer toys and beamed. “He was definitely the real Santa,” said my elder daughter, and I breathed a sigh of relief. “His beard was real.”

Making our way back outside, I barely noticed the chill. Flushed with warmth I looked down at the smiling faces and gave silent thanks for what had finally turned out to be our family Christmas miracle.

A two-person cabin on the Santa Claus Express from Helsinki to Rovaniemi starts from €239 one way on VR railways (travel time 11¾ hours)

Monisha Rajesh is the author of Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train, published by Bloomsbury (£22). To support the Guardian, buy a copy from guardianbookshop.com

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‘I work in Lapland at -32 degrees and my office is a real-life snow globe’

From walking around in -32 degrees, eating Reindeer pizza, to having just a few hours of daylight – here’s what it’s really like to work in Lapland over Christmas

Lapland is one of the most enchanting and Christmassy places in the world during this time of year, with its snow-dusted forests and roaming reindeer. Yet, imagine if the Arctic wilderness was the backdrop to your working day? And we’re not talking about being Santa Claus.

Saul Vendrig Castillo compares his office to a ‘real-life snow globe’ as he spends the most wonderful time of the year in Lapland, Finland, as a TUI representative. His job is to help create unforgettable moments for families who visit the magical winter wonderland, and it certainly comes with its perks.

“Every day I’m surrounded by snow, excitement and pure joy. Kids step off the plane with their mouths open in amazement, and you can feel the Christmas magic in the air. It’s like working inside a real-life snow globe!”, Saul said.

“Lapland is one of the only places on earth you can experience the magic of gliding through snowy forests, wrapped up warm, with a majestic reindeer leading the way. It’s peaceful, magical and gives you time to soak up the Lapland winter wonderland.”

Yet, it can come with its challenges as he revealed: “In December, we get just over two hours of daylight, which means at 4pm, it can feel like bedtime.” However, that hasn’t stopped Saul from making the most of the local delicacies, including one that some might frown upon.

“Reindeer pizza is amazing, and much better than I expected! I can also highly recommend a liquorice cake with blueberry ice cream that I ordered a few days in a row, as it was so good,” said Saul.

His job in Lapland can range from greeting families at the airport, helping them with their snowsuits and boots, to organising thrilling outdoor excursions such as husky sleigh rides, reindeer safaris or snowmobiling.

“The children get to ride in sledges pulled by a team of energetic huskies. The sound of their paws on the snow and the speed of the sledge make it an unforgettable adventure. Everyone leaves smiling and talking about it for days,” he explained.

But he confessed that the most rewarding part of his job is seeing the smiles on the children’s faces when they meet Santa. “When families visit Santa, it’s really special,” he shared.

“The children get to meet him in his cosy, twinkling cabin, tell him what they’ve been wishing for, and even receive a little gift to take home. The excitement in their eyes is priceless, and it’s magical for the parents to see too.”

Saul added: “When a child sees their first reindeer or throws their first snowball, that’s the moment you realise how special this job is. Then you take them to meet the Big Man, and their faces light up in a way you never forget. Parents often tell me this is the Christmas they always dreamed of giving their kids, so it’s really special to be a part of that experience.”

Currently in Lapland for his second season with TUI, Saul has picked up a few handy tips for those looking to visit the enchanting destination. He advised: “Make sure you bring lots of loose layers to wear under your snow suit as they trap the heat, whereas tight clothes can make you colder fast. And once you feel the chill, it’s hard to get rid of it, some days it can get to –32 degrees.”

He added that because Lapland only gets just over two hours of daylight in December, it’s best to “plan your activities with this in mind to really maximise those daylight hours”.

Additionally, Saul suggested: “For many people visiting Lapland, their bucket list goal is to see the Northern Lights, and my one piece of advice is to always be patient with them. They can be unpredictable, but they really are a sight to behold when they appear in the evening.”

During the summer season, Saul works as a TUI rep in various countries, including Greece, the Costa del Sol, and Mallorca. Yet, there’s something about Lapland, “The snow, the lights, the magic, the excited families always pull you back. There’s nowhere else like it,” he said.

If you’re interested in soaking up the festive merriment or planning a winter getaway for next year, TUI offers various packages to Lapland, departing from regional airports across the UK. The packages typically include flights, snowsuits, activities and transfers, and of course, the chance to meet Santa and witness the Northern Lights.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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Shocking cost of Lapland UK visit revealed as huge price of tickets mean it’s cheaper to travel to Arctic to meet Santa

VISITING Lapland UK can be more expensive than flying to the Arctic Circle.

Tickets to the festive experience this Saturday are selling for as much as £180 each.

A family of five would have to spend more than £930 for a day out at Lapland UKCredit: TripAdvisor
A few days in the real Lapland, in northern Finland, can cost in the region of £600Credit: Alamy
It may be cheaper to take your family on a trip to Santa’s real home

There are no discounts for children, a £24.75 booking fee and £5.95 postage and packaging.

It means a family of five would have to spend more than £930 for their day out.

But a few days in the real Lapland, in northern Finland, can cost in the region of £600.

Lapland UK has a site in Siddington, Cheshire, and another in Ascot, Berks.

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Sky-high price of a soft toy at Lapland UK is revealed – as mum details TRUE cost


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Mum slams ‘insane’ Lapland UK prices as she’s quoted £600 for family-of-four

One dad, who asked not to be identified, said: “When I saw the price I spat my mulled wine out.

“It’s obscene pricing, meaning only rich kids get to have the thrill.”

Danielle Halliday said: “We went to Finland last year with two adults, two children.

“Flights were £250, accommodation was £350 for the four nights and going to see Santa is free, or €10 each for a present.

“You might as well go for the real thing for a cheaper price.”

Lapland UK was asked to comment.

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