DUBAI, United Arab Emirates — Donald Trump Jr. on Wednesday mocked protesters who took part in “No Kings” demonstrations across the United States while praising his father’s business-first approach to the Middle East during a visit to Saudi Arabia.
Trump spoke before business leaders and Saudi officials at the Future Investment Initiative, the brainchild of Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, who feted President Trump during his Mideast tour in May to the kingdom, the United Arab Emirates and Qatar.
Trump backed the prince during his first presidential term even after the killing of Washington Post columnist Jamal Khashoggi by Saudi officials at he kingdom’s consulate in Turkey. Prince Mohammed plans a trip to Washington next month as well.
Speaking alongside Omeed Malik of 1789 Capital, Donald Trump Jr. criticized Democratic Party policies and protesters targeting his father. Trump invests in 1789 and continues to work in the real estate arm of the family, the Trump Organization, which has expanded its Mideast offerings even as his father serves his second term in the White House.
In particular, Trump mocked the “No Kings” protests which drew millions of people to demonstrations across the U.S., claiming it was “not an organic movement, it’s entirely manufactured and paid for by the usual puppets around the world and their” groups.
“If my father was a king, he probably wouldn’t have allowed those protests to happen,” he said. “You saw the people that were actually protesting — it’s the same crazy liberals from the ‘60s and ’70s, they’re just a lot older and fatter.”
Trump made the comments while visiting a nation ruled by an absolute monarchy where dissent is criminalized.
The “No Kings” demonstrations, the third mass mobilization since his father’s return to the White House, came against the backdrop of a government shutdown that is testing the core balance of power in the United States in a way protest organizers warn is a slide toward authoritarianism.
Trump separately acknowledged it was his first trip to Saudi Arabia and praised the changes he saw in the kingdom.
“When my father came here, unlike the last presidents who visited here, it wasn’t an apology tour,” Trump said. “It was, ‘How do we work together? How do we grow our respective economies? How do we create peace and stability in the region?’”
“There can be ‘America-First’ component to that, but there also can be a ‘Saudi-First’ component to that and everyone can actually benefit,” he added.
Tommy Banks, one of Yorkshire’s favourite foodie sons, is best known as the chef behind Michelin-starred restaurant the Black Swan at Oldstead, but he’s no stranger to pubs. In fact, the Black Swan started out as one, with Banks working behind the bar of his family’s pub before graduating to the kitchen. In 2023, he opened the Abbey Inn in Byland, and he has recently launched a hospitality arm dedicated to restoring other pubs across the UK. First up is the eight-bedroom General Tarleton in the village of Ferrensby, near Harrogate. Food, naturally, is top notch with polished takes on pub classics made with local produce (steak and Black Sheep ale pie; burgers made from Dexter beef from the Banks’ farm) – the perfect fuel for walks along the river and into the Nidd Gorge, a local beauty spot. Doubles from £175 B&B, generaltarletonferrensby.co.uk
The Bat and Ball, Oxfordshire
It’s dogs by the fire and dog collars at the bar at this charming pub in the village of Cuddesdon, best known for its clergy college. It was opened at the start of the year by the owners of the Lamb Inn in nearby Little Milton, and the chefs at both outposts cut their teeth at two-Michelin-star Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons down the road. The Bat and Ball is the more casual of the pair – there’s even a dart board – and dishes take typical pub fare (sausage and mash; ham, egg and chips) and dial them up with carefully sourced local ingredients. The five bedrooms have walls painted in rich autumnal shades to match the surrounding countryside, which is sandwiched between the Cotswolds and Chilterns. Doubles from £140 B&B, batandballcuddesdon.co.uk
King’s Arms, Lake District
This family-owned pub, which reopened at the end of August, is at the heart of the Lakeland village of Hawkshead, around the corner from the Beatrix Potter gallery and the Hawkshead Grammar School museum, where a young William Wordsworth carved his name into his desk. There’s plenty of history in the oak beams and slate floors at the King’s Arms too, which dates back to the 17th century. Behind the dark-wood panelled bar is a roster of local beers including Coniston Old Man Ale and Cumbrian Ales Loweswater Gold, while the food leans towards classic with Cumberland scotch eggs and beef wellington. Just the thing to be tucking into after a stomp up nearby Latterbarrow fell. Doubles from £145 B&B, kingsarmshawkshead.com
The Wellington at Boscastle, Cornwall
Known affectionately as The Welly, this centuries-old coaching inn overlooks Boscastle harbour on the rugged north Cornwall coast. St Austell Brewery recently splashed millions doing it up, and it shows in the cosy dining rooms, snugs and stained glass panelling. The pick of the bedrooms are the two in the pub’s turret with freestanding baths, but all 14 come with local art on the walls and OS maps and a South West Coast Path national trail book for walks. The path runs right outside: west to Tintagel Castle, birthplace of King Arthur according to legend, or round past Pentargon waterfall eastward. After a coastal hike, there’s pints of Proper Job by the fire (plump for the sofas in the Chart Room) and plates of fish and chips to look forward to, made with local catch in Gem Ale batter. Doubles from £145 B&B, wellingtonhotelboscastle.com
The Woolpack Inn, Hampshire
Photograph: Jake Eastham
Fresh from a makeover by influential interior designer Nina Campbell, this country pub is the centre of life in the tiny hamlet of Totford in the tranquil Candover valley. It is surrounded by fields and woodlands, so head chef Luke Stradling has plenty of local produce to draw on – supplemented by the pub’s large kitchen garden, right now filled with pumpkin, celeriac and winter leaves. As well as supplying almost all the vegetables on the menu, the team also donates 20% of the harvest to local charities and homeless shelters. Upstairs, eight bedrooms are named after game birds, but it’s fly fishing that’s the local star draw – casting for trout in the world renowned chalk stream of the River Itchen. Doubles from £100 B&B, thewoolpackinn.co.uk
The Fleur de Lys, Dorset
Photograph: Dave Watts
Pub and restaurant firm Chickpea has nailed the modern country pubs with rooms formula – great food, friendly bar and keen prices for overnighters. The latest addition to the fold is the Fleur de Lys, a 17th-century inn in the village of Cranbourne. The novelist Thomas Hardy was a regular guest here and makes reference to it in Tess of the D’Urbervilles. The revamp reflects its period charm: hops hang over the large open fireplace, candles flicker on tables and, upstairs, the nine bedrooms are decorated in muted colours. Walking routes loop around Cranborne Estate, with dishes such as Brixham sea bass, venison barnsley chop and sticky toffee pudding to look forward to back at the pub afterwards. Doubles from £120 B&B, fleurdelyscranborne.co.uk
The Penny Bun, North Yorkshire
Photograph: Jake Eastham
Named after a mushroom found in local woods, the Penny Bun is a departure from your traditional boozer. With its clay-plastered walls and palette of earthy browns, the look is more wabi-sabi minimalism than brass beer pumps. Between Ilkley and Otley in the Yorkshire Dales, the recently opened pub is part of the Denton Reserve, a 1,012-hectare (2,500-acre) estate undergoing a sustainably led transformation, shifting to carbon sequestering and regenerative farming. It provides many of the ingredients found on the menu at the Penny Bun, such as Tamworth pork croquette salad or gnocchi with roasted garden beetroots. The calming aesthetic particularly suits the five bedrooms (the plum one comes with a freestanding bath), with deep beds to sink into after walks across Ilkley Moor, right outside the front door. Doubles from £180 room-only, pennybunilkley.co.uk
The Ship, Norfolk
Photograph: Patricia Tobin
This summer, Sisters Siobhan and Caitriona Peyton rebooted this historic coastal inn with nine beamed bedrooms in the village of Brancaster. The cooking here has a light Mediterranean touch, and while menus have one eye on the sea (less than a mile’s walk away), game from local estates is the star turn in autumn. For Sunday lunch expect whole pot-roasted venison shoulders served with local wild mushrooms instead of the usual chicken or beef, while in the front bar settle in by the fire and tuck into a mangalitza pork sausage roll or monkfish scampi with a pint of Moon Gazer Ale. Outside, Norfolk’s big skies look especially arresting at this time of year – look out for flocks of migrating pink-footed geese – and walks cut through dunes and salt marshes. Doubles from £145 B&B, theshipbrancaster.uk
The Leicester Arms, Kent
Across the road from the entrance to medieval Penshurst Place and Gardens, this Grade II-listed pub is looking prettier than ever after a £1.2m revamp last year. It’s easy to see why it scooped Kent’s county prize at the 2025 National Bar and Pub Awards: there are deep leather armchairs by the fire in the bar, real Kentish ales from nearby Larkins, and cut-above cooking in the dining room. The menu focuses on local produce, with Kent lamb scotch egg and Whitstable oysters, while the 11 botanically named bedrooms are decorated in an attractive heritage style. Four of them come with rolltop baths for post-walk soaks after a ramble around the Penshurst Estate past the River Medway, lakes and giant oak trees. Doubles from £150 B&B, theleicesterarmspenshurst.co.uk
The Swan, West Sussex
The two-and-a-half year refurbishment of this Grade II-listed coaching inn in Fittleworth on the edge of the South Downs was worth the wait. Original features from its 14th-century roots mix with stylish comfort in the bar, restaurant and 12 beautifully designed rooms – though it remains “proudly old fashioned”, says owner Angus Davies. Meals served in the wood-panelled, painting-lined dining room draw on seasonal local produce (foraged ceps and fresh plum pudding on our visit) and lavish breakfasts are served in the barn in the pretty gardens. The old visitor books are fascinating: notable guests include JMW Turner, John Constable and Rudyard Kipling. There’s plenty to do nearby, from antique shopping in local villages to walks on the downs, Petworth House and Arundel castle. Doubles from £195 B&B, swaninnfittleworth.com
The Nevill Arms, Leicestershire
Photograph: Clive Doyle Photography
With its honeyed hamlets, pretty market towns and rolling countryside, the Welland valley is in a part of the country sometimes referred to as the Notswolds (similar to the Cotswolds but without the price tag). The Nevill Arms in the village of Medbourne was revamped in 2023, with 10 bedrooms (some with four-poster beds) spread between the pub and its converted stables – and next year they’ll add a three-bedroom stone cottage next door too. On the food front, beef, pork and lamb are reared on the owner’s farm, while in the inky blue-painted bar there’s a rotating line up of Langton Brewery beers on tap – the most popular of which is an amber bitter, Inclined Plane, named after the canal lift at nearby Foxton Locks. Doubles from £155 B&B, nevillarms.co.uk
New Inn Yealand, Lancashire
Young couple Ben and Lauren Sandiford took on the running of this seven-bedroom village inn in April. Ben brought his chef experience to the kitchen, which now turns out classy comfort food (shepherd’s pie with mash and ewe’s cheese crumb; beef and ale suet pudding) to be eaten in the beamed dining room beside the log burner. The bar is filled with a locals sipping on beers including Lancaster Blonde and Ruskin’s Best Bitter. Dogs and walking boots are welcome, and there are plenty of places to get those boots muddy nearby. RSPB Leighton Moss is within walking distance, or head for the coast at Morecambe Bay, part of the beautiful Arnside and Silverdale AONB. Doubles from £144 B&B, thenewinnyealand.co.uk
The Merry Harriers, Surrey
This popular pub in the Surrey Hills village of Hambledon, a few miles south of Guildford, was taken on by young gun publicans Sam Fiddian-Green and Alex Winch at the end of 2023. The pair, who grew up nearby, had earned their stripes in Michelin-star restaurants (Fiddian-Green as chef, Winch as restaurant manager and sommelier) and gave the Merry Harriers a suitably foodie injection, but not enough to scare away loyal locals (wisely they didn’t dispense with the Saturday meat raffle). Local ingredients – some from Fiddian-Green’s family farm in the Wintershall valley – are magicked up into bangers and colcannon with onion gravy or autumn-favourite pheasant schnitzel. The four bedrooms above the pub have had a muted makeover; six more overlooking the garden will get some love this winter. Doubles from £140 B&B, merryharriers.com
The George at Hathersage, Peak District
Photograph: Tom Hodgson Photography
Follow in the footsteps of Charlotte Brontë on the 5½-mile trail that loops from the Peak District village of Hathersage, tracing places she included in Jane Eyre. It starts at the George, where Brontë arrived in the summer of 1845 by stagecoach, as does her heroine on her way to Thornfield (modelled on nearby North Lees Hall). The George has had a few facelifts since then, most recently last year after storm damage, but its link to the famous novelist holds, especially in the Lady C Suite (one of 24 bedrooms), where it’s said Charlotte stayed. A morning a dip in the 1930s outdoor Hathersage lido (heated at this time of year) makes a refreshing start to the day; the George’s full English breakfast a more leisurely one. Doubles from £93 B&B, thegeorgehathersage.com
Ancient Shepherds, Cambridgeshire
Photograph: Jean-Luc Benazet
In the village of Fen Ditton, three miles outside Cambridge, the Ancient Shepherds’ Grade II timber-framed building dates back to 1540. It became the village pub in 1805, and remained so until chef Mark Poynton introduced “accessible” fine dining in 2020. With a new owner, but Poynton still at the helm in the kitchen, it reopened in July, with four bedrooms at the back. Tasting menus have been chosen to reduce kitchen waste (£35 for three courses, £55 for five, £85 for seven), with dishes such as monkfish crudo, and venison loin and haunch with star anise carrot. It’s a lovely three-mile stroll along the Cam to central Cambridge, or amble the other way to the thatched village of Horningsea for an ale at the Crown and Punchbowl. Doubles from £94 room-only, ancientshepherds.com
The Gaskell Arms, Shropshire
Photograph: Simon Whaley Landscapes/Alamy
The medieval market town of Much Wenlock has a fascinating claim to fame. In 1890, French aristocrat Baron Pierre de Coubertin visited to learn from, and take part in, the town’s Olympian Games in his quest to revive the ancient Greek Olympics, which returned to Athens six years later. Wenlock’s Olympian Games still take place each year, and a trail tracing their history leads to the 17th-century Gaskell Arms, where opening day speeches were once held. The 14-bedroom pub was taken over by new owners this summer and it’s a fine spot to recover after other arduous endeavours – such as a hike up the limestone escarpment of Wenlock Edge – with pies and pints of Shropshire-brewed Hobsons ale. Doubles from £92 B&B, gaskellarms.co.uk
The Royal Forest, London
Photograph: Nick Smith
On the edge of Epping Forest (a 10-minute walk from Chingford station), this blue-blooded pub is next door to the timber-framed Queen Elizabeth Hunting Lodge, built on Henry VIII’s orders in 1543. A few hundred years later, Queen Victoria stayed at what was then the Forest Hotel, giving the name the regal upgrade. The 28-bedroom landmark is now part of the fast-growing, Raymond Blanc-backed Heartwood Inns group, which reopened it last year with William Morris-style fabrics in the guestrooms, and sustainable-sourcing a priority for menus. Sunday roasts with bottomless trimmings are the fuel for rambles in some of Epping Forest’s 2,400 hectares – the Connaught Water and Chingford Plain circular is an almost five-mile loop through ancient oaks and beech trees. Doubles from £119 B&B, royalforesteppingforest.com
SCOTLAND
The Taybank, Perthshire
Photograph: PR Image
In the idyllic village of Dunkeld, the Taybank is a gorgeous spot for a winter break. Cosy up by candlelight in the beautiful first-floor restaurant, where new head chef Nicolas Fischer dazzles diners with the best local ingredients, including vegetables from the hotel’s kitchen garden. With a noon check out as standard, relax with breakfast in bed in one of five boutique bedrooms. The breakfast hampers include croissants from nearby bakery Aran, homemade granola with jam, cheese, Great Glen charcuterie and fresh juice. Stroll by the river, then book a slot in the Braan sauna and cold water plunge pool (open October to March). Then warm up in the bar with a pie while listening to local traditional musicians. Doubles from £190 B&B, thetaybank.co.uk
The Bellachroy, Isle of Mull
A vibrant community hub in the tiny village of Dervaig on the Isle of Mull, the Bellachroy has a lively bar and excellent restaurant. This winter is the first under new owners Thomas and Matthew Broom-Hughes and they’ll be decorating this historic inn with twinkling lights, candles and seasonal foliage, and offering special seasonal menus featuring Isle of Mull produce. The seven bedrooms have been beautifully redecorated, bringing in cosy textiles and local coffee and treats, and there’s a peaceful guest lounge with views of Loch Cuin. Nearby, walk on the beach at Calgary Bay and explore the woodland sculpture trail, or hike to the deserted village of Ardantairbh and Quinish Point. Doubles from £170 B&B, thebellachroy.co.uk
Plockton Inn, the Highlands
The charming fishing village of Plockton makes for a wonderful west coast escape. At the Plockton Inn feast on the region’s seafood – langoustine are the speciality, known locally as Plockton prawns. Cheerful rooms above the pub or across the road have been refreshed recently with works by local artists. The village is a brilliant base for walking, whether a short stomp up to Càrn na Frith-Àird for views of Applecross and the Isle of Skye, or a coastal meander to Duncraig Castle along the shores of Loch Carron. Plockton is also just a 20-minute drive from Eilean Donan Castle and the bridge to Skye, making a day trip to the island an easy option. Doubles from £99 B&B, highlandcoasthotels.com
The Shoregate, Fife
Photograph: Ailsa Sheldon
The Shoregate reopened in 2022 after a major restoration, creating four spacious rooms above the 18th-century village pub and restaurant. The dining room has views down the brae to the sea and feels cheery in any weather, decked out in turquoise and orange. The menu includes generous helpings of local produce, such as Scrabster cod and East Neuk surf clams in curried bisque. From here you can join the Fife Coastal Path – it’s just over 4 miles to pretty Anstruther, with views across the Firth of Forth to the Isle of May and Bass Rock. Stop for fish and chips, then retrace your steps to the Shoregate for a seat by the fire in the cosy back bar. Doubles from £200 B&B, theshoregate.com
Knipoch House Hotel, the Highlands
This 15th-century hunting lodge near Oban was refurbished in 2024 and has a new fine-dining restaurant, 1635. Legend has it that the Thane of Cawdor was murdered at Knipoch House in 1592, inspiring Shakespeare’s Macbeth. Today it’s a calm and peaceful spot, with elegant bedrooms that have a view over the loch. Sink into comfy sofas in the spacious bar, and dine at 1635 (tasting menu, £99) or in the main restaurant for lamb rump with haggis, stone bass with leeks, or pub classics (burgers and steaks). Follow the path through the mushroom-speckled ancient woodland behind the hotel to reach a viewpoint with expansive views of Loch Feochan, with the Isle of Mull in the distance. Doubles from £116 B&B, sonascollection.com
Glenuig Inn, the Highlands
The winding road around the Ardnamurchan peninsula can’t be rushed, so slow down and enjoy it properly with a stay at the Glenuig Inn, a traditional ceilidh house. Now leased and run by the community, with a full buyout in the final stages, there’s no better way to support the local economy. Stay in simple spacious rooms, and eat venison burgers and bowls of mussels in the bar – and catch a music session if you can. From the inn, walk through the woods to Samalaman beach, and keep an eye out for seals. For a longer walk, continue to the end of the road at Smirisary, then follow the rough trail to beautiful white sandy beaches with views of Eigg and Rum. Doubles from £175 B&B,glenuig.com
Scotland entries written by Ailsa Sheldon
WALES
Y Castell, Carmarthenshire
Photograph: Nate Warlow
The Heart of Wales Line is a single track railway that trundles from Shrewsbury to Llanelli on Wales’ south coast, past ancient castles and beneath swooping red kites. Running alongside it, a walking trail allows hikers to hop on and off along the route. Alight at Llangadog and Y Castell stands handsomely at the heart of town. Once a drovers’ stop and coaching inn, the pub was reopened last summer by new owners, who completed six freshly decorated bedrooms this spring. All have cosy Welsh blankets on the beds and jazzily tiled bathrooms, and one family room has built-in bunk beds. Hearty fish pie or Welsh madame (a cross between a welsh rarebit and an egg-topped croque madame) is fuel for those surrounding walks. Doubles from £120 B&B, ycastell.wales
Bryntirion Inn, Eryri/Snowdonia
Palé Hall, a five-star country hotel in Eryri, opened this pub with rooms at the estate’s gates in May, a low-key foil to the hotel’s mahogany four-poster suites and Michelin green star restaurant. The Bryntirion’s six simpler bedrooms are each named after a nearby peak in the Eryri national park, which could read like a holiday hiking challenge: Yr Wyddfa, Tryfan, Cnicht, Cadair Berwyn, Elidir Fawr and Arenig Fawr. The pub itself is filled with motoring memorabilia (vintage tyre signs above the kitchen pass; the rear of a classic Mini emerging from the wall), while former Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons executive chef Luke Selby takes over the food at the estate in January, injecting his flavour to menus that already lean heavily on local ingredients such as meat from Bala butcher TJ Roberts and vegetables grown five minutes down the road. Doubles from £140 B&B, thebryntirion.co.uk
Glan Yr Afon/Riverside, Eryri/Snowdonia
Pennal village. Photograph: Keith Morris Aerial Imagery/Alamy
When Pennal’s village pub came up for sale in 2022, funds came from far and wide – including from Cardiff-born actor Matthew Rhys whose father had grown up nearby – to help the community to buy it. More recently, the pub on the banks of the River Dyfi scooped the top prize at the Countryside Alliance Wales pub of the year awards and has added four serene bedrooms upstairs. Walkers will love it here – the Wales Coast Path runs through Pennal, and it is on the southern fringes of the Eryri national park. As well as serving beers from Cwrw Llŷn Brewery and dishing up local lamb shanks with dauphinoise potatoes, this is a proper community hub with Welsh language practice sessions over a cuppa and an annual speed sheep shearing competition in the garden. Doubles from £135 B&B; riversidepennal.co.uk
Bridge End Hotel, Denbighshire
This waterside pub, overlooking the River Dee in charming Llangollen, had a £1.5m makeover last year, giving a fresh look in earthy colours to the friendly bar, restaurant and eight en-suite bedrooms. Pub classics (scampi and chips; mac and cheese) are served alongside pints from the Robinsons Brewery, such as the full-bodied Golden Dragon Ale (Cwrw’r Ddraig Aur). Llangollen is well worth a potter to browse its antique stores and indie bookshops, and the short walk up to the remains of Castell Dinas above the town starts right outside the pub. The heritage trains of the Llangollen Railway chug out of the station just across the road, while up Wharf Hill behind the pub is Llangollen Wharf for a narrowboat trip to the vertiginous Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Doubles from £90 B&B; bridgeendhotel.co.uk
The Bull’s Head Inn, Ynys Môn/Anglesey
Photograph: David Pimborough/Alamy
Charles Dickens stayed at Beaumaris’s Ye Olde Bull’s Head in 1859 and gave a scathing account of its food in his fictionalised book The Uncommercial Traveller. He described “side dishes of ailing sweetbreads in white poultices” and “apothecaries’ powders in rice for curry”. Fortunately, after a few changes of hands (most recently to the Inn Collection Group, who gave it a refresh in 2023) the critique doesn’t stand today. While the Bull’s listed bar is still filled with artefacts from its 500-year history, the menu runs from sides of black pudding bonbons to rich lamb massaman curry. For more history, Edward I’s unfinished masterpiece, Beaumaris Castle, is just at the end of the road, or simply pull up the drawbridge and settle in by the fire in The Bull’s lounge with a dram of Penderyn single malt. Doubles from £105 B&B, inncollectiongroup.com
NORTHERN IRELAND
The Harbourview Hotel, County Antrim
Carnlough’s historic Londonderry Arms became the Harbourview Hotel when this inn on the Causeway Coast, in the north-west corner of the country, was recast as Ireland’s first “destination whiskey hotel”. There are still live trad music sessions in the Wee Bar, but now there are also tastings of flights of whiskeys, which include drams from local distillery Bushmills, peaty smoky numbers from Galway’s Micil and a host of other Irish craft names. Warming stews (Guinness-braised daube; traditional Irish lamb) will line the stomach for a round or two of whiskey-based cocktails. Upstairs the 35 bedrooms look out over either the harbour to the front, or the glorious glens of Antrim behind – and there will be a wee bottle of the good stuff beside the bed for a nightcap. Doubles from £120 B&B, theharbourviewhotel.com
The Old Inn, County Down
At the heart of the now rambling Old Inn in Crawfordsburn, a 10-mile drive or train journey from Belfast, is an original thatched coaching inn that was built in 1614. The 32-room hotel is rightly proud of this long-ago birthdate – making it one of the oldest inns in Ireland – and there’s the 1614 Bar where you can sip on 1614 gin, a new collaboration with local Rademon distillery. More recently, the much-loved spot was bought by the Galgorm Collection in 2021, which added an outdoor spa the following year. Just last month, the Old Inn was crowned AA Hotel of the Year. Walks run from the door through the forests of Crawfordsburn country park, past a railway viaduct and waterfalls and loop down to beaches on the coast. Doubles from £170 B&B, theoldinn.com
Additional reporting by Jane Dunford
Room prices are the cheapest available for November and December and are correct at time of publishing
Academics, journalists and pundits talk at great length about the conundrum of overtourism; the ready-made solution is simply to swerve the crowds. These three towns are regional centres where you will never need to queue, but will come away culturally stimulated and historically enlightened.
Leicester
Like many people, I’ve spent a lot of my travels going to edges, extremities, ends of the road. I overlooked Leicester because it was so very central – quintessentially in-between. The Fosse Way, from Lincoln to Exeter, bisects it; Watling Street, from Dover to Wroxeter, passes nearby. The stylish, high-spec Jewry Wall museum – which reopened in July after a major redesign – shows how roads and traffic made Roman Leicester (Ratae Corieltauvorum) a wealthy, important hub: sublime mosaics; a gold ring; a bathhouse complex; a wall still standing.
In Roman times the Jewry Wall served as an entrance to city’s baths. Photograph: Dave Porter/Alamy
A cluster of medieval and Tudor structures beside the River Soar, including stone gateways, a church and castle motte, indicates a major religious centre. I was the only visitor on a Sunday morning. Near this convenient national crossroads, Richard III was able to gather forces from across the kingdom for the Battle of Bosworth; little good it did him. Leicester’s King Richard III Visitor Centre delineates the whys and wherefores of the blood-drenched savagery of the Wars of the Roses. The mental shift demanded of you as you segue from the vast, interlocking, bastard-rich Plantagenet family trees and riots of heraldry to the quiet science of archaeology and, finally, to the cold, austere tomb of the dead hunchback in the cathedral next door, is not insignificant. This is a city so loaded with history that every new retail and hotel development unearths new treasure or traces of past peoples, like a stratified tell in the Holy Land.
A pint in the Globe allowed some thinking time and – as the former preferred boozer of stockingers – a natural link to Victorian and Edwardian Leicester, which rippled with entrepreneurial energies. Thomas Cook, Walkers crisps, Wolsey clothing and Currys started here. Garments, hosiery and corsetry made the city more like a Lancashire town. Chimneys, mills and, most reassuringly, makers are still in evidence.
The 21st-century city is multipurpose – the centre has diversified from retail into gaming, co-working, education, dining, cocktails, cafes – and famously diverse. The Golden Mile (Belgrave Road) is a thriving, gimmick-free Asian gauntlet for clothes, jewellery, spices, fresh veg and restaurants. The likes of Bobby’s, with its Bollywood-inflected interiors, and Sharmilee won the city the Curry Capital gong in 2024. Belgrave Road was part of the Fosse Way, which is thought-provoking – ancient Rome was multicultural too. Things to see and do: Guildhall; Abbey Park; King Power Stadium; Curve theatre; De Montfort Hall
Paisley
Paisley’s County Square where the former Post Office is now a pub. On the right is the entrance to Gilmour Street station. Photograph: Gerard Ferry/Alamy
Someone on Reddit asks: “Why is Paisley even still a place?” Sixty comments follow. At the end of it, I know Paisley is most definitely a place. I have to admit, as an English northerner, I thought of it as somewhere imprecise – suburb, district, city borough. But even on the non-stop train (nine minutes from Glasgow Central), you know you’re crossing a proper green belt and, when you arrive, you see towers and domes above the trees. Paisley stands apart; it stands tall.
Bold buildings hint at booming textile times. The station – the fourth busiest in Scotland – is Scots baronial. The town hall is a capacious neoclassical palace, recently turned into a concert venue. The mighty Abbey, built on the site of a 12th-century Cluniac monastery, is a solemn hulk (minimally subverted by a witty “Alien” gargoyle). St Matthew’s church, designed by local architect William Daniel McLennan, is a blend of perpendicular and art nouveau – somewhat influenced by Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s Queen’s Cross church in Glasgow, but more strident and startling.
On White Cart Water stand two monumental mills. The massive Anchor Mills is residential and sits beside a weir that resembles a wild waterfall. Mile End Mill is a business centre and has a superb chimney, coffee shop and small textile museum. The dramatic gothic hulk of the Coats building, constructed as a memorial church – and nicknamed the Baptist Cathedral of Europe – is now an event space, used for weddings, proms and as a set for TV series Outlander. Paisley has gone big on repurposing.
‘The mighty abbey is a solemn hulk’. Photograph: John Guidi/Getty Images
The famous Paisley print pattern has its origins in Persia. The teardrop-shaped motif, known as boteh in Farsi, is probably a stylised almond or cypress cone (the cypress was sacred to Zoroastrians). Paisley Museum, undergoing a major refurbishment that will create a display space as good as any in Scotland, owns 1,200 Paisley shawls, as well as looms, pattern books and printing blocks. I was allowed to see the interior on a hard-hat tour and saw a Paisley-emblazoned guitar case and a Ken doll in a Paisley top.
The Paisley pattern features in street art and in the Buddie Walk of Fame, a series of 10 plaques spread around the town centre that honour local legends, living and dead. They include TV show Porridge’s Fulton Mackay; playwright, designer and painter John Byrne – whose Slab Boys Trilogy, originally titled Paisley Patterns, is set in a carpet-making factory; Tom Conti; Paolo Nutini; Phyllis Logan; and Gerry Rafferty (whose Baker Street can be read as an angst-ridden lament from London to his home town of Paisley). Byrne’s and Rafferty’s plaques should really have been placed at Ferguslie Park, the socially marginalised district from which they hailed. As did Gordon Williams, author of the novel From Scenes Like These, a blistering, honest, funny portrayal of social deprivation, violence, sex and booze, as good as anything by Alan Sillitoe, and nominated for the first ever Booker prize in 1969. The novel was long ignored but recently rediscovered. Like Paisley. Things to see and do: Sma’ Shot Cottages; Paisley Heritage Tours; Mural Trail
Nelson
Brierfield Mill apartments on the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. Photograph: David McCulloch/Alamy
No town is born totally ex nihilo, but Nelson in Lancashire comes close. An early description is “a peat covered and rain sodden wilderness”. An 1844 map shows a cotton factory, two chapels, the New Inn and a post office. The canal, opened in 1816, enabled the fledgling settlement to ship its wares. When the railway came in 1849, it was known as Marsden – but there was already a Marsden in Yorkshire. The train guard would shout “Nelson!” as the train came to a halt by the Lord Nelson inn. The name stuck. Locals boast, half-heartedly, that it’s the only town named after a pub.
Two thousand terrace houses sprang up around the station – built from stone, many are still there, laid out on a gridiron plan. Mid-19th-century Nelson had nine small general stores, two drapers, two druggists, one tailor and one stationer. There was a saddler’s shop and two smithies. By 1876, to these were added butchers, cabinet-makers, chemists, cloggers, drapers, glass and china dealers, grocers, greengrocers, ironmongers and tobacconists – plus corner shops, fish-and-chip shops and 21 grocery and provisions branches run by the Co-operative Society. There were more than a dozen each of pubs and churches or chapels. What towns – and townspeople – miss isn’t only what we remember from our own lifetimes.
More than 20 mills clacked and whirred with thousands of looms. By 1921, almost 18,000 Nelson residents – divided equally between men and women – worked in weaving. Nine tenths of Nelson’s buildings and population were dedicated to textiles. I’d seen the sad husk of Whitefield Mill from the canalside. All that remains of Riverside Mill is a chimney. Lomeshaye Bridge Mill and Spring Bank Mill survive as mixed-use spaces. Brierfield Mill has been converted into posh flats. A 40ft-high shuttle on the high street is meant to remind people of the weaving heyday; it’s an ineffectual monument, unable to convey anything of the power, graft, suffering or pride of the old times.
The giant weaving shuttle commemorates the town’s cotton weaving heyday. Photograph: Neil Wilmore/Alamy
There were also minor industries in brewing, quarrying, coalmining, corn-milling, soap manufacture, brick- and pipe-making and engineering. The Victory V lozenge, originally made with ether and chlorodyne (containing chloroform, the opiate laudanum and cannabis), was a local invention. A more mass-market mouth-pleaser was developed by an Austrian confectioner employed at Fryers in the 1860s. He was asked to make a mould for jelly bears, but the resulting sweets looked like newborn infants. They were rebranded as “Unclaimed Babies”. That name didn’t stick, and so Jelly Babies were born.
Nelson is a radical left haven. Weaving unions were strong and often militant. A local newspaper called the town Little Moscow. The first world war saw the emergence of a sizeable pacifist movement, leading to schisms between conscientious objectors and those who believed in the national war aims. Britain’s first working-class female novelist, Ethel Carnie Holdsworth, addressed a crowd of 20,000 at Victoria Park (formerly Victoria Recreation Ground), calling for an end to war as part of the Women’s Peace Crusade. Her 1925 novel, This Slavery, has just been reimagined in graphic form.
The building that best embodies local radical history is Unity Wellbeing Centre on Vernon Street – known as the Independent Labour Party Socialist Institute when it opened in 1908. One foundation stone, in memory of William Morris and Edward Fay, was laid by Katharine Bruce Glasier, a prominent ILP figure, known as “the grandmother of the Labour party”. The other, in memory of Caroline Martyn and Enid Stacy, was laid by Selina Cooper, who had moved to Nelson from Cornwall with her family in 1875 following her father’s death. She started working in the mills aged 10 as a half-timer then full time from the age of 13. Cooper played a leading role in politicising and organising local female textile workers. She lived at 59 St Mary Street, which has a plaque – though not an official English Heritage one.
The streets of stone terraces are attractive and many open on to bracing views of Pendle Hill’s south-eastern face and the steep slope that plummets down from the summit – beloved of fell runners – called the Big End. Nelson also opens vistas in the mind, and pilgrims travel in both directions – to the fells and moors, and to the cobbled streets and regenerated mills. Things to see and do: Seedhill Cricket Ground and West Indian cricketer Learie Constantine’s house; 66 bus ride to Clitheroe via Pendle Hill; Clarion House; Two Toms Trail
A young Kelvin carries multiple identities. Today, he’s Kelvin, but that might change tomorrow, depending on the identity game he’s up to. For at least 14 hours a day, he describes himself as “Richard”, a stranded American engineer needing financial help from a sympathetic woman he met on a dating site. He’s always glued to his laptop, scheming to swindle his next target in his many romance tricks.
Kelvin lives in a community in Asaba, South-South Nigeria.
For him, the end justifies the means, as long as he amasses enough wealth to fund his exorbitant lifestyle. Internet fraud, colloquially known as Yahoo-Yahoo, is his ticket to the flashy cars and designer clothes he sees flaunted by mentors in “HK” – the local term for the Hustling Kingdom, a structured network of internet fraudsters in the state.
Just a few kilometres away, a mechanics workshop stands half-empty. Togolese artisan, Awe Gao, wipes grease from his hands and shakes his head. “Where are the Nigerian boys?” he asks. “Before, this workshop was full of apprentices. Now, they all want quick money from the internet. They call this ‘Yahoo’, saying it is better than dirty hands.”
This is the new reality in Nigeria’s oil-rich South-South region. A generation of young men is abandoning traditional vocations such as furniture making, tiling, automobile mechanics, and welding for the seductive, high-reward world of cybercrime. This mass gravitation is not just a social ill; it is creating a dangerous security vacuum, crippling the local skilled workforce, and ceding vital trades to a steady influx of skilled migrants from Togo and the Benin Republic.
Nigeria has an unemployment problem, and young people are desperately looking for an alternative way to make a living. While many have chosen artisanship to overcome their employment plight, others are resorting to cybercrime. With many youths taking pride in internet fraud as a way of life, Nigeria ranks 5th in the global report on sources of cybercrime activities, trailing behind Russia, Ukraine, China, and the United States.
A report by the Economic and Financial Crimes Commission (EFCC) documented a significant increase in conviction numbers between 2020 (976) and 2022 (3,785), with a high percentage of these related to cybercrime, such as obtaining by trickery and impersonation. The EFCC authorities noted that, in 2022, the country lost over $500 million to cybercrimes, which contributes to the nation’s reputation as a significant source of cybercrime globally.
While the EFCC claims to have improved measures to curb cybercrimes in Nigeria, the institution has been accused of being overhand in handling suspects and focusing too much on internet fraudsters rather than corrupt public officials and politicians. The agency has, however, defended its actions, stating that internet fraud is a major crisis linked to more serious crimes.
“I want Nigerians to know that we are having a crisis on our hands. If you travel abroad with your green passport and stand in the queue among so many people, you will discover that by the time you present the passport, the people [immigration officers] will look at you with some reservation,” said Olanipekun Olukoyede, the EFCC chairman. “That is, if they don’t take you aside to carry out some special scrutiny. That is a national shame that some young Nigerians [yahoo-yahoo boys] have caused us.”
The cybercrime problem seems to carry a different weight in the South-South region, with many young people leaving artisanship for internet fraud. HumAngle spoke to multiple sources, including self-confessing internet fraudsters, cybercrime experts, and community leaders, to unravel the dangerous escapades of youths making internet scams a way of life in the region. The reporting revealed how youths have chosen to enrol in criminal hubs where they learn to swindle people online. One such criminal enterprise is HK, a sophisticated ecosystem operating on a structured mentorship model, where an established fraudster houses and trains five to fifteen apprentices.
“My Oga taught me everything,” explains Kelvin, who dropped out of a polytechnic where he was studying electrical engineering. “How to use VPN, how to create a fake profile, how to talk to these white women, how to make a sad story. For three months, I was just learning. Now, I run my own operations and give him 20 per cent of my ‘hit’.”
The training is rigorous. Recruits are schooled in the psychology of manipulation, the technology of anonymity, and the financial logistics of moving illicit funds. They learn to target vulnerable individuals abroad through romance scams and email compromises.
Another cybercrime apprentice, Franca, 24, from Warri, serves as a “picker,” using her female identity to receive funds through her bank account: “At first, I was doing it to survive after my NYSC. No job. But the money is fast. One transaction can give you what a hair stylist will earn in six months. Why would I learn a trade that pays peanuts?”
The consequence of this mass shift is starkly visible in the region’s industrial and commercial layouts. Workshops that once buzzed with the sounds of apprentices learning a trade now operate below capacity.
“Look around,” says Chinedu Okoro, the owner of an automobile spare parts shop in Benin. “The Togolese and Beninois are taking over because they are willing to learn. Our youths see manual labour as punishment. They point to the ‘Yahoo boy’ with a new iPhone and say, ‘That is my target’. We are losing our capacity for production and becoming a society of scammers.”
The region is becoming dependent on foreign nationals for essential services and skilled labour, from building houses to repairing vehicles. This creates economic leakage and reduces local resilience. Contrary to the illusion of widespread success, only a fraction of internet fraudsters make significant money. The majority live in precarious uncertainty. The abandonment of viable vocational paths means a growing pool of unemployed, frustrated youth who have invested their formative years in a criminal enterprise with a short shelf life.
As competition intensifies, many fraudsters are turning to money rituals, known as “Yahoo Plus”, incorporating spiritualists and, alarmingly, resorting to violence for “quick money”. This has contributed to a spike in mysterious killings and kidnappings, with body parts sometimes linked to ritual demands for “cyber charms”.
For 19-year-old Daniel from Bayelsa, the choice was simple. His father was a renowned welder, but he watched him struggle financially for years.
“My father’s hands were rough, his back was bent, but at the end of the month, what did he have? Nothing,” Daniel says. “Then I saw my cousin from the same HK. In one year, he built a house for his mother. He drives a Lexus. My father’s workshop is now closed. I am his only hope, and this laptop is my tool.”
Ufoma Ighadalo, 27, told a similar story. His father worked for 35 years for the Delta State government and retired as a school principal. Within that period, he could only build one house at Ughell, Delta State, and buy an old Peugeot car.
Illustration: Akila Jibrin/HumAngle
“He trained five of us at the university level. But I don’t consider him a success,” Ufoma says in a conspiratorial voice. “In this line of business, I will achieve what my father achieved in less than two years. I already have a house of my own and a car as well. I plan to build my second house here in Asaba before the end of this year. Who says hustling doesn’t pay?”
This narrative is repeated across the region. The tangible, delayed gratification of vocational work cannot compete with social media’s viral, glamorous portrayal of cybercrime success. The HK offers money and an identity of instant wealth and societal validation.
Community leaders and security analysts warn that the situation is a ticking time bomb. “When you disconnect a generation from productive labour and orient them towards predatory online activities, you create a profound societal crisis,” notes Chioma Emenike, an Asaba-based sociologist. “We are nurturing a generation that believes wealth comes not from creating value, but from clever exploitation. The long-term effect on our social fabric and security architecture is devastating.”
Experts argue that the solution must be multi-pronged: aggressive vocational reorientation, government-driven investment in the digital economy to create legitimate tech jobs, and severe enforcement against the kingpins of the HK networks.
But for now, in the half-empty workshops of the South-South, the sounds of learning hammers and revving engines are being replaced by the silent, desperate click of keyboards, as a generation chooses the elusive kingdom of fraud over the solid foundation of a skilled trade.
Eilean Sionnach Lighthouse Cottage, off the Isle of Skye
Guests at this lighthouse keeper’s cottage have not only the property but the whole 1.6-hectare (four-acre) island to themselves. Eilean Sionnach is an islet off Skye that is accessible by boat or on foot at low tide. Like the lighthouse, the cottage was built in 1857 and has four bedrooms, four bathrooms, a kitchen and a lounge with a wood burner, and incredible sea views.
As well as a patio and garden, which has a fire circle, the cottage has its own private beach. It is possible to time a lunchtime walk to the nearest pubs and restaurants over on Skye. Or, for the true castaway experience, stock up at the village shop by the pier before embarking on your island adventure. From £650 a night (two night-minimum),sleeps eight, coolstays.com
Borradillhouse and cottage, Scottish Highlands
This house and cottage, set 100 metres apart, are the only buildings in 10 hectares of private oak woodland on the rugged and remote Ardnamurchan peninsula, the most westerly point of mainland Britain. They can be rented separately or together: the cottage sleeps four in two bedrooms; the house sleeps six in two bedrooms and a snug with a double sofa bed. Both have kitchens with range ovens, lounges with lots of books and games, and outdoor fire bowls.
Outside, there’s adventure to be had in the woods, walks to waterfalls and natural plunge pools, and berries and mushrooms to forage. Hardy guests can snorkel and free dive for scallops on nearby Loch Sunart, or hire kayaks and boats. The nearest shop is a 15-minute drive away, but there is a whisky distillery just over a mile down the road. Cottage from £171 a night, house from £214, both together (sleeps 10) from £357, four-night minimum, kiphideaways.com
The Blue Hemmel, Northumberland
Guests have to cross two fords to reach this contemporary barn conversion, which is a mile from the nearest neighbour (the owner). Set in moorland on the edge of Kielder Forest, close to Hadrian’s Wall, the barn is spacious yet cosy, and the open-plan living area has original beams, a vaulted ceiling, underfloor heating and windows overlooking the garden and forest.
There’s a wood burner to keep you warm in winter, a curved sofa, armchairs and a games table, and the three bedrooms have doors on to the patio. The barn is in Northumberland’s International Dark Sky Park and there’s a stargazing platform with a telescope in the garden; keen astronomers can also visit the Battlesteads Dark Sky Observatory in Wark, the nearest village. From £907 for a week, sleeps six, classic.co.uk
Bull Hollow Cottage, Shropshire
This charming cottage for two, set in a clearing in four hectares of private woodland, looks like it’s straight out of a fairytale. The ground-floor lounge has a wood burner and a bay window seat for wildlife watching, while up the steep, narrow stairs is the bedroom, bathroom and snug-cum-study.
The large garden has a stream running through it, with a little stone bridge leading to woodland walks and Acton Burnell Castle beyond. It is six miles south-east to the market town of Much Wenlock and the ruins of Wenlock Priory, or a little farther north to Shrewsbury. From £952 a week or £575 for three nights, sleeps two, ruralretreats.co.uk
Boulder Field Cabin, Peak District
It is a 250-metre walk up a steep path to this wooden cabin on Eagle Tor in the Peak District. The compact cabin has a futon sofa bed, a fold-down table and a wood burner. There is plenty of space outside, including a covered outdoor kitchen, an outdoor shower and a composting toilet. Best of all is the wood-fired hot tub, on a platform perched on a boulder and with views across the valley.
There’s no danger of being overlooked while bathing – the cabin is set in six hectares of private land. Still, it is only a 10-minute walk to the Druid Inn or the Red Lion in the ancient village of Birchover. Easily reached attractions include the Nine Ladies stone circle on Stanton Moor, Chatsworth House and the market town of Bakewell. From £198 a night (two-night minimum), sleeps two, coolstays.com
Bird How, Lake District
Photograph: Chris Lacey/National Trust Images
This tiny cottage is on a fellside at the end of a rough farm track in the Eskdale valley. It was once a cow barn, and is still very simple: there is a sitting room with a wood burner, a small kitchen, a twin bedroom and a room with a bunkbed. Unusually, there is no bathroom – guests wash at the kitchen sink and use a caravan-style toilet under the cottage, in the old shippon (cattle shed).
It’s not for everyone, but it’s perfect for serious hikers who want to explore a lesser-known part of the Lake District. Hardknott Pass, among the steepest roads in England, is on the doorstep, and walkers can also take a quieter route up Scafell Pike. From £449a week or £292 for three nights, sleeps four, nationaltrust.org.uk
The Boat House Cabin, Cornwall
Photograph: Canopy And Stars
Follow a gravel path, over a small bridge, through lush gardens to a lake, where the Boat House Cabin sits on the shore. On the Pengelly farm, outside the village of Leedstown, this tranquil hideaway is surrounded by woodland and meadow with deck and outdoor bath overlooking the water. Inside it’s a tasteful wood and white-walled haven, with a stylish bedroom and French doors opening onto a balcony.
Take a rowing boat out on the lake (or swim) and warm up in front of the wood-burner in the living room, watching a film on the pull-down screen. Spa treatments and yoga sessions can be arranged, and there’s lots to explore locally – the fishing village of Porthleven and coastal walks are a short drive away. From £124 a night (two-night minimum), sleeps two, canopyandstars.co.uk
Garth Gell Farmhouse, Snowdonia
Photograph: Rhiannon Batten
Guests have to drive up a steep track to reach this beautiful old stone farmhouse in Snowdonia, which is in 10 hectares of land. The four-bedroom property has been carefully restored by conservation architects, keeping the original flagged floors, beams and other period features, and it is still off-grid. Solar panels provide electricity for a few lamps and a small fridge-freezer; there is limited hot water from the oil-fired Aga for the main bathroom.
Forget watching TV or scrolling – this is a place to read, relax, play games and go for walks. Guests can cycle to the nearest pub, the George III in Penmaenpool, and along the Mawddach estuary. It is 15 minutes to the seaside town of Barmouth. From £240 a night (four-night minimum), sleeps six, garthgellfarmhouse.co.uk
Tincture, Powys
Photograph: David Curran / Unique Homestays
Unless you have a 4×4, it is a steep 15-minute walk up to this thoughtfully renovated 17th-century farmhouse – a wheelbarrow is provided for luggage. The house runs off-grid via a solid-fuel Rayburn, solar panels and spring water. Surrounded by untouched National Trust land in the Cambrian mountains, there’s not a neighbour in sight. There are two bedrooms, one en suite, and a family bathroom upstairs and a kitchen, sitting room and dining room downstairs.
Furniture is repurposed from farming days: the dining table was recovered from the stable and a cabinet was made from part of the pigsty. A wood burner in the sitting room adds to the cosy vibe, and there’s a brook and natural plunge pool in the garden for cold-water dippers. It is seven miles to the spa town of Llanwrtyd Wells and about two hours’ drive to Cardiff. From £1,995 a week, short breaks £1,495, sleeps four, uniquehomestays.com
Drumskinny Farm, County Fermanagh
This simple Grade II-listed farmhouse is at the end of a private lane in rolling hills on the Fermanagh/Donegal border. Whitewashed and with a wildflower meadow on the roof of the original cattle sheds, it’s as pretty outside as it is cosy in. Most of the rooms are on the ground floor, with traditional flagstone floors, a living room with a wood burner, kitchen and master bedroom, plus there’s a twin bedroom and toilet upstairs.
Outside are big front and back gardens (two dogs welcome), and unspoilt countryside to explore. It’s a 40-minute walk to the Drumskinny stone circle and a 15-minute drive to Lower Lough Erne. The towns of Enniskillen, Omagh and Donegal are almost equidistant – but are a good 20 miles away. From £250 for two nights, sleeps four, underthethatch.co.uk
Accommodation prices correct at time of going to press. These are low-season rates
Sept. 26 (UPI) — United Kingdom citizens and permanent residents will get digital ID cards that will make it easier to access health care, welfare, child care and other public services, the government said.
U.K Prime Minister Keir Starmer introduced the plan. But ID cards have been a contentious issue in the U.K. since the end of World War II. Civil rights campaigners argue it infringes personal liberty and puts people’s information at risk.
Petitions with more than 100,000 names get a debate in parliament, but it almost never changes the government’s decisions.
The ID will make it easier to hire workers, according to the Recruitment and Employment Confederation’s Neil Carberry.
“We use digital ID every day, from paying on our phones to travel and event tickets,” The Guardian reported Carberry said in a statement. “There is no reason that the state should fall behind.
“By providing ID documents it already supplies digitally, the government can unlock faster job starts, and lower administration burdens in our labor market — as well as a faster, more accurate benefits system. This gives us a more fluent and dynamic job market — just what you need to achieve economic growth.”
One U.K. official said using the ID cards isn’t mandatory, but, Culture Secretary Lisa Nandy said, “It will be compulsory if you want to work in this country, so you’ll have to show that to be able to prove that you have the right to work.”
She said it will help prevent people from working illegally.
“The problem with national insurance numbers is that they’re not linked to anything else. So they’re not linked, for example, to photo ID, so you can’t verify that the person in front of you is actually the person whose national insurance number that you’re looking at, and we’ve seen a real rise in the amount of identity theft and people losing documents and then finding that their identity has been stolen,” Nandy said.
Tory leader Kemi Badenock said that the IDs announcement is a desperate gimmick that will do nothing to stop the [immigration] boats. There are arguments for and against digital ID, but mandating its use would be a very serious step that requires a proper national debate.”
Former Prime Minister Tony Blair tried to create biometric ID cards, but strong opposition made him abandon the idea.
Protesters display St. George and Union Jack flags during a “Unite the Kingdom” rally in central London on Saturday. Photo by Tayfun Salci/EPA
Sept. 13 (UPI) — More than 100,000 Britons who are frustrated with the United Kingdom’s immigration policies marched in central London during a Saturday afternoon and evening event billed as “Unite the Kingdom.”
The event was organized by Stephen Yaxley-Lennon aka Tommy Robinson and included a video address from Elon Musk.
Musk, 54, accused the U.K. government of not protecting “innocent people, including children who are getting gang-raped,” The Times reported.
“There’s this genuine risk of rape and murder and the destruction of the country and the dissolution of the entire way of life,” Musk told the protesters.
“If you weren’t under a massive attack, then people should go about their business and live their lives, but unfortunately, if the fight comes to you, you don’t have a choice,” he continued.
“Whether you choose violence or not, violence is coming to you,” Musk added. “You either fight back or you die.”
An estimated 110,000 people participated in the protest march from Waterloo Bridge to Whitehall and at times clashed with police, 26 of whom were injured when pelted with bottles and other projectiles, according to The BBC.
Four officers suffered serious injuries, and at least 25 people were arrested for what London’s Metropolitan Police called “wholly unacceptable” violence.
The Metro Police deployed 1,000 officers, who were assisted by 500 others from nearby jurisdictions.
“There is no doubt that many came here to exercise their lawful right to protect, but there were many who came intent on violence,” Matt Twist, assistant commissioner of the London Metropolitan Police, told the BBC.
A counter-protest called “Stand Up to Racism” drew about 5,000 participants and was organized by Women Against the Far Right, The Guardian reported.
Those protesters carried placards saying, “Refugees Welcome” and “Oppose Tommy Robinson,” among others.
Daniel SandfordUK correspondent, central London and
Maia Davies
Aerial video shows scale of ‘Unite the Kingdom’ protest
More than 100,000 people have joined a march in central London organised by far-right activist Tommy Robinson, with a counter-protest by anti-racism campaigners also taking place.
Protesters forming the “Unite the Kingdom” rally have gathered in Whitehall where they are hearing a series of speeches from people including Donald Trump’s former strategist Steve Bannon.
The Metropolitan Police said some officers had been “attacked with projectiles” and had had to use force to avoid a cordon being breached.
Meanwhile, the Met estimates about 5,000 people have joined a nearby counter-protest, dubbed March Against Fascism, organised by Stand Up To Racism (SUTR).
Around 1,000 Met Police officers have been deployed in London, with barriers in place to create a “sterile area” between the two groups.
The Met said it had borrowed 500 officers from other forces for the day, with police vans from Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and Devon and Cornwall.
Just after 15:00 BST, the two separate demonstrations were divided in Whitehall by a line of police officers.
One side waved placards that said “refugees welcome. Stop the far right” and the other Unite the Kingdom group flew Union and St George’s flags.
The Met said some officers had been attacked while trying to keep the two groups apart.
“Officers are having to intervene in multiple locations to stop Unite the Kingdom protesters trying to access sterile areas, breach police cordons or get to opposing groups,” the Met said on X.
“A number of officers have been assaulted.”
Huge crowds massed near Waterloo Station with people wearing and waving union flags and the St George cross
At a stage set up on Whitehall, Robinson, whose real name is Stephen Yaxley-Lennon, addressed the crowds who had gathered.
He claimed that UK courts had found that the rights of undocumented migrants superseded those of the “local community”.
Robinson was referring to a Court of Appeal decision to overturn an injunction blocking asylum seekers being housed at The Bell Hotel in Epping, Essex.
TV presenter Katie Hopkins also spoke on the stage after earlier appearing alongside Robinson, Lawrence Fox and Ant Middleton at the front of the march.
EPA
At the other Stand Up To Racism rally, speeches were expected by MPs Diane Abbott and MP Zarah Sultana.
Ahead of the march, the Met confirmed it would not be using live facial recognition – which captures people’s faces in real-time CCTV cameras – in its policing of the Unite the Kingdom march.
It also said there were “particular concerns” amongsome in London’s Muslim communities ahead of Robinson’s protest, citing a “record of anti-Muslim rhetoric and incidents of offensive chanting by a minority at previous marches”.
EPA
Counter protesters were also set to march through central London, ending up near Robinson’s demonstration
Cdr Clair Haynes urged Muslim Londoners not to change their plans or avoid central London, but to approach a police officer should they feel concerned while out in public.
She said: “Officers will take a firm line on behaviour that is discriminatory or that crosses the line from protest into hate crime.”
She added that police would act “without fear or favour” and asked demonstrators to “be considerate of the communities they are passing through”.
The Met said that it had ordered the Unite the Kingdom rally to end by 18:00 and the counter-protest to end by 16:00, in line with when the organisers told the force they expected speeches to end.
Weekly insights and analysis on the latest developments in military technology, strategy, and foreign policy.
The United Kingdom is seeking a new battlefield ballistic missile, a class of weapon that it last fielded back in the Cold War. The Nightfall program reflects expanding interest in long-range precision strike systems, not just in the United Kingdom, but in Europe more broadly, spurred by Russian aggression and its own expanding missile arsenal.
The U.K. Ministry of Defense yesterday published a request for information (RFI) for the missile, providing details of what is required. At this stage, the Nightfall program is in the “open early engagement” phase, with the ministry judging interest from potential suppliers, ahead of a firm procurement decision.
The MOD launches NIGHTFALL, a quest for a very low cost ballistic missile. At least 2 such weapons, with a 300 kg payload, are to be fired from a single vehicle (M270?) and reach 600 km. The rocket (excluding the warhead, curiously) should cost no more than half a million. pic.twitter.com/rJuNa2fy16
The key performance parameter of having a range of greater than 600 kilometers (373 miles) puts it in the category of a short-range ballistic missile, a class of weapon that can reach out to between 300 and 1,000 kilometers (186 and 621 miles). There is a stated requirement for each launcher to deliver at least two “effectors,” each of which should weigh around 300 kilograms (661 pounds), based on a high-explosive payload. There is no mention of any other types of warheads being required. The wording makes it clear that the two or more effectors requirement relates to each launcher, rather than each missile. It should be noted that, while the RFI uses the broad term “effectors,” it also specifically refers to the requirement for a ballistic missile.
Interesting set of requirements. 300 kg to 600 km would place Nightfall between ATACMS and Iskander-M for throw weight.
The AUR cost is ambitious and the timeline even more so. Designing, fabricating, and testing a >0.5 meter diameter SRM in 9-12 months will be a challenge. https://t.co/3g3TsQJwaLpic.twitter.com/qJRN8lMDHi
The range figure puts the missile well beyond the reach of the U.S.-made Army Tactical Missile System (ATACMS), for example, a short-range ballistic missile which has a stated maximum range of 300 kilometers (186 miles). While ATACMS has been exported, the United Kingdom is not an operator.
ATACMS being launched by an M270 MLRS. U.S. Army
For its new Precision Strike Missile (PrSM), another short-range ballistic missile, the U.S. Army has outlined plans for incremental development that will increase its range from 500 kilometers (311 miles) to 1,000 kilometers (621 miles), with plans to extend this even further in the future.
A Precision Strike Missile (PrSM) during an early test launch. Lockheed Martin
As well as its basic ballistic trajectory, there is a demand for “some basic maneuverability,” suggesting that the United Kingdom might favor a weapon capable of being used on a depressed quasi-ballistic trajectory. This mode of launch renders a ballistic missile more capable of significant maneuvering in flight, presenting major challenges even for opponents with more robust missile defense capabilities.
As for the launcher, this is required to be a mobile platform, capable of operating in “a high threat tactical environment,” suggesting that a good degree of mobility and at least some armored protection are required. It also specifies that the launcher has a low multispectral signature, making it harder for enemy sensors to detect. All missiles are required to be fired from the launcher within 15 minutes of stopping at a launch location. After launch, the launcher must be able to rapidly leave the area, ideally within five minutes.
The U.K. Ministry of Defense wants the missile to be able to navigate in a GPS-denied environment and strike within five meters (16 feet) of a provided GPS coordinate 50 percent of the time. The missile is required to have a fast flight time, able to strike targets within 10 minutes of launch.
The ministry’s document provides relatively extensive information on resistance to jamming and other types of interference, likely reflecting lessons from the war in Ukraine. Here, Russian forces have reportedly been using electronic warfare systems to good effect against GPS-assisted guidance packages used on a variety of air and ground-launched munitions that Ukraine has received from the United States and other Western partners. Similarly, the ability of standoff precision-guided weapons to still operate effectively in the face of heavy electronic warfare jamming is also an area of considerable interest to the U.S. military.
This time with numbers on likelyhood. We just need a statistician to tell us how sure we are. Surely over 9000.@PajalaJussi computed how many radio horizons of first jammed plane intersect. Here, heatmapped. pic.twitter.com/9zMYvwtxQP
With this in mind, the U.K. Ministry of Defense states that it wants a missile that is “resilient in a complex electromagnetic environment (EME), including within a GNSS [Global Navigation Satellite System] denied and degraded environment, and resistant against targeted electronic warfare attack and spoofing.”
Another area of great interest right now, as regards precision standoff munitions, is the ability to procure effectors of this kind at relatively low cost and to scale up production, when required, to meet the demands of high-end contingencies.
These factors are also reflected in the U.K. requirement, which calls for a minimum production output of 10 missiles per month, if required, with the option to further scale this up. A remarkably low price of £500,000 ($675,000) for each missile is presented as the goal, although this excludes the warhead, launcher, and any development costs. This contrasts with a reported cost of between $1 million and $1.5 million for each ATACMS missile, depending on the variant (although this includes the warhead).
The U.K. Ministry of Defense wants these capabilities to be packaged and ready for at least five all-up units to be delivered for trials within nine to 12 months.
At this stage, it appears that a sovereign solution is also preferred, with the system required to be “ideally […] free from foreign government trade and usage restrictions, such as export control.” There is also a requirement for further growth potential to be available from the start, including the option to increase the range, accuracy, in-flight maneuverability, and more. The combination of a sovereign weapon and a notably low cost point, per unit, would also point to the potential to export this weapon.
It is significant that the U.K. Armed Forces are looking for a new ballistic missile at this stage, having last fielded the U.S.-made Lance, a mobile field artillery tactical missile during the Cold War. With a range of less than 100 miles, this was primarily a nuclear-delivery system for the Central Front battlefield.
Now, driven primarily by concerns about the Russian threat, the United Kingdom is looking at the potential of various new missile systems and has even decided to reinstate an air-launched nuclear capability, albeit using U.S.-owned weapons.
Earlier this year, the United Kingdom and Germany announced they would jointly produce a “deep precision strike” weapon with a range of over 2,000 kilometers (1,243 miles, considerably more than specified in the Nightfall program. At this point, it’s unclear whether a ballistic or cruise missile — or perhaps both types — will be the preferred solution for the longer-range requirement.
However, the project reflects growing ambitions among European NATO members to field long-range strike capabilities, faced by a growing Russian threat on the alliance’s eastern flank.
A Russian soldier observes the loading of an Iskander short-range ballistic missile. Russian Ministry of Defense
With Russia continuing to make extensive use of ground-launched ballistic and cruise missiles against Ukraine, the United Kingdom and other European NATO members are increasingly concerned about a major gap in their inventories when it comes to standoff precision-guided munitions.
As TWZhas pointed out before, among European NATO members, only Turkey possesses a conventional ground-launched missile with a range of more than 300 kilometers (186 miles). This is the locally developed Bora short-range ballistic missile.
In contrast, Russia has fielded or is developing multiple ground-launched ballistic and cruise missile systems that match this kind of performance, and which are able to carry conventional or nuclear warheads. This is before taking into account Russia’s air-launched and maritime long-range strike capabilities, which also vastly outmatch their NATO counterparts in Europe.
As there was in the Cold War, there is a growing demand among NATO members in Europe to develop a deterrent to Russian tactical nuclear missiles, which are being fielded in increasingly advanced and long-reaching forms, including in Kaliningrad, the Russian enclave on the Baltic Sea. However, at this stage, there is no indication that either of the aforementioned British missile programs envisages using a nuclear warhead, although this could conceivably be introduced, including on Nightfall, at a later stage.
Meanwhile, the United States has announced that it will deploy to Germany, on a rotational basis, starting next year, a range of advanced ground-launched weapons. These include the SM-6 multi-purpose missile and Tomahawk cruise missile, as well as “developmental hypersonic weapons.” The latter is a reference to the Dark Eagle and potentially others, like the Operational Fires (OpFires) ground-launched hypersonic missile system and the aforementioned PrSM short-range ballistic missile.
One of the first Dark Eagle launchers delivered to the U.S. Army, loaded with an inert missile canister. U.S. Army
Developing a new ballistic missile that fulfills the outlined requirements within the United Kingdom, and without recourse to licensed production, may be a challenge. After all, it’s been many decades since the country was developing and producing these kinds of weapons.
A head-on view of the aircraft carrier HMS Prince of Wales. Crown Copyright
In the past, we suggested that the most likely option for the Royal Navy would involve launching a cruise missile from the carrier, perhaps even a hypersonic weapon. Nevertheless, a ballistic missile is also a possibility, albeit less likely.
It’s unclear at this point what sort of range requirement the Royal Navy is seeking, and what kinds of targets the missiles should prosecute.
As for the British Nightfall effort to develop a new ballistic missile, this points once more to a growing focus on long-range fire capabilities in Europe and, depending on its ultimate range and potential warhead options, it might ultimately have a significant effect on the military balance on the continent.
COPENHAGEN, Denmark — Denmark’s foreign minister had the top U.S. diplomat in the country summoned for talks after the main national broadcaster reported Wednesday that at least three people with connections to President Trump have been carrying out covert influence operations in Greenland.
Trump has repeatedly said he seeks U.S. jurisdiction over Greenland, a vast, semi-autonomous territory of Denmark. He has not ruled out military force to take control of the mineral-rich, strategically located Arctic island.
Denmark, a NATO ally of the U.S., and Greenland have said the island is not for sale and condemned reports of the U.S. gathering intelligence there.
Danish public broadcaster DR reported Wednesday that government and security sources which it didn’t name, as well as unidentified sources in Greenland and the U.S., believe that at least three Americans with connections to Trump have been carrying out covert influence operations in the territory.
One of those people allegedly compiled a list of U.S.-friendly Greenlanders, collected names of people opposed to Trump and got locals to point out cases that could be used to cast Denmark in a bad light in American media. Two others have tried to nurture contacts with politicians, businesspeople and locals, according to the report.
An influence operation is an organized effort to shape how people in a society think in order to achieve certain political, military or other objectives.
DR said its story was based on information from a total of eight sources, who believe the goal is to weaken relations with Denmark from within Greenlandic society.
DR said it had been unable to clarify whether the Americans were working at their own initiative or on orders from someone else. It said it knows their names but chose not to publish them in order to protect its sources. The Associated Press could not independently confirm the report.
“We are aware that foreign actors continue to show an interest in Greenland and its position in the Kingdom of Denmark,” Danish Foreign Minister Lars Løkke Rasmussen said in a statement emailed by his ministry. “It is therefore not surprising if we experience outside attempts to influence the future of the Kingdom in the time ahead.”
“Any attempt to interfere in the internal affairs of the Kingdom will of course be unacceptable,” Løkke Rasmussen said. “In that light, I have asked the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to summon the U.S. chargé d’affaires for a meeting at the Ministry.”
Cooperation between the governments of Denmark and Greenland “is close and based on mutual trust,” he added.
The U.S. Embassy in Copenhagen directed queries on the issue to Washington.
The Danish Security and Intelligence Service responded to a request for comment by saying it believes that “particularly in the current situation, Greenland is a target for influence campaigns of various kinds” that could aim to create divisions in the relationship between Denmark and Greenland.
It said it “assesses that this could be done by exploiting existing or fabricated disagreements, for example in connection with well-known individual cases, or by promoting or amplifying certain viewpoints in Greenland regarding the Kingdom, the United States, or other countries with a particular interest in Greenland.”
The service, known by its Danish acronym PET, said that in recent years it has “continuously strengthened” its efforts and presence in Greenland in cooperation with authorities there, and will continue to do so.
Tis the season to be beside the seaside – and to hype and critique coastal towns in surveys and rankings. I suppose lists of this year’s “in” and “out” resorts help tourists decide where to go; no point going to Skegness for Michelin-starred food, or to Salcombe for a laugh and cheap beer. Less obvious coastal towns provide more nuanced fare. Perhaps the most alluring spots are those where we don’t forget the sea. These three towns are routinely ranked last resorts or else ignored altogether, but they offer more than stuff to eat, drink, buy and post on socials – and are close to swimmable beaches.
Ayr, Ayrshire
A view of the Isle of Arran from Ayr. Photograph: Allan Wright/Alamy
A century ago, Clyde steamers and the Glasgow and South Western Railway took thousands of sunseekers from inland towns to the Ayrshire coast. They came to escape the smoke and noise of industry, breathe in the briny air, and admire the Isle of Arran and tiny Ailsa Craig – from afar or up close on an excursion. The bed and breakfasts on elegant Park Circus (a sweeping crescent lined with cherry trees that blossom red on one side and white on the other) and the Georgian villas on Eglinton Terrace evoke something of the golden days of yore.
It’s easy to imagine parasol-sporting ladies and tall-hatted gents strolling across the Low Green, a large field between the town centre and the beach. This open space – perfect for picnics, kite-flying and impromptu games – and the absence of any clutter on the prom make the seafront unusually peaceful. It’s as if Ayr has refused to become a traditional resort. No tat, no tack, not many tourists. There are places to play on swings and get an ice-cream or a pint, but lovers of amusement arcades and bucket-and-spade shops should probably stay away. On the short block beside the Low Green the buildings are mainly residential – including care homes, that standard fixture of coastal towns.
The beach is a golden sweep about two miles in length, with the old harbour at the north end. Wharves and quays once bustled all along the River Ayr. By the 14th century, this was Scotland’s principal west coast port. In the 18th century, more than 300 ships were moored every year, unloading American tobacco, French wine, Spanish salt, English earthenware and slate from Easdale in the Firth of Lorn. Walk south and you come to the ruins of Greenan Castle, a 16th-century clifftop tower. The sunsets over Arran are life-enhancing. I watched a woman of retirement age do her tai chi moves while keeping her eyes fixed on the island – spiritually separate from the dog-walkers and prom-striders.
The Tam o’ Shanter Inn is one of the pubs that claims to be Ayr’s oldest. Photograph: Andy Arthur/Alamy
Robert Burns was born near Ayr and baptised in the Auld Kirk. In Tam o’ Shanter he writes: “Auld Ayr, wham ne’er a town surpasses, / For honest men and bonny lasses”. A lively pub on the high street, which is set back a good mile from the beach, is named after the poem; it claims to be the oldest in Ayr, but so does the Black Bull on the opposite side of the river. The old bridge (or Auld Brig, if you prefer, which inspired another Burns poem) that takes you across is pedestrianised and a beauty. All the old pubs are enticing but I had my most enjoyable, peaceful beer and dram in the Twa Dugs – also named for a Burns poem. In Ayr’s Waterstones, I found a long-overlooked 1969 Booker-nominated novel by Gordon M Williams, From Scenes Like These, that provided a brutally realistic riposte to Burns-esque takes on rural Scotland. I read it in the boozers, the caffs, on benches.
People in Ayr will tell you the town has declined. They’ll tell you that in nine out of 10 seaside resorts. But this column gets me around, and I can vouch for the town’s general busyness and good looks. Sedate, somewhat stern, bereft of traditional fun stuff, it’s an ideal hideaway for those who want to do beach walks, read or write, and check into small, friendly guest houses. Things to see and do: Rozelle House Museum, Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, Culzean Castle and Country Park
Bangor, Gwynedd
A quiet corner of Bangor. Photograph: Howard Litherland/Alamy
Bangor, the oldest city in Wales, came second from bottom in the Which? 2025 rankings and absolute bottom in 2024. Perhaps the latter partly anticipated the former. Casually saddle a place with derision and it takes a great effort to shake it off.
As the gateway to the island of Ynys Môn (Anglesey), a university town and former royal capital, Bangor doesn’t need star ratings or hip amenities. The city’s origins stretch back to the founding of a monastery in the early sixth century. A cathedral was later built on the site. For centuries, Bangor was the spiritual and ecclesiastical hub for Gwynedd – a kingdom until the English came a-conquering – but remained a small settlement. Nonetheless, during the first flush of Welsh tourism, at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, pleasure steamers from Liverpool brought visitors to see the big church and the wild waters of the Menai Strait.
The boom years came after 1826 with the completion of the Holyhead Road, linking London with Dublin – hitched to the recently created UK by the 1800 Acts of Union. The first major civilian state-funded road building project in Britain since the Roman era, the job was given to Thomas Telford. The road (much of it on the same route as today’s A5) swept through central Bangor, making the former big village a major staging post, and creating the longest high street in Wales. To replace the ferry-shuttles, Telford’s magnificent Menai Suspension Bridge opened in 1826. Two decades later, Robert Stephenson built a tubular bridge to carry the Chester-Holyhead railway across the straits. With communications much improved, Bangor became a proper little port, with shipbuilding, sail making, iron founding, smithing and timber yards, as well as slate yards.
The magnificent Menai Suspension Bridge. Photograph: Slawek Staszczuk/Alamy
Walk to the natural end of this high street – which turns residential – and you come to the shore, a pier and a large park between neo-Norman Penrhyn Castle and the sea. You don’t have an in-town beach, which might be why some of the raters have a low opinion of Bangor. But the Wales Coast Path and the railway line link Bangor with beaches at Llanfairfechan and Penmaenmawr, eight and 10 miles away respectively. In fact, this might be the best-connected seaside town in the UK, with Eryri national park (Snowdonia), Unesco-listed Caernarfon Castle and Criccieth and the Llŷn peninsula accessible by bus, and of course Anglesey on the doorstep. Things to see and do: walk the Menai Suspension Bridge, kayaking off Caernarfon, Aber Falls Distillery
Millom, Cumbria
Millom, Cumbria, with Black Combe behind. Photograph: Jon Sparks/Alamy
The Cumbrian coast is the most intriguing stretch of littoral in these islands. Backed by the towering, cloud-drawing fells of the national park, the shore is often beneath a blue dome. The towns along it are chapters in British social history. Whitehaven is like a Devon port town without the crowds. Workington is a fascinating ex-industrial town. Nethertown is a hidden hamlet in a spectacular setting.
Millom, at the southern tip of the old county of Cumberland, is a stop on the coast-hugging railway line – a superlative train ride – between Barrow-in-Furness and Sellafield. Its main connection to the nexuses of nuclear war and power are the Millomites who commute south and north for work. Millom once had industry; hematite ore (iron oxide) was found at Hodbarrow in 1856 and mined till 1968, the population swelling to 10,000. Much of the land was transformed into an RSPB nature reserve, centred on the north-west’s largest coastal lagoon; little, common and sandwich terns breed on the islands and you can see ringed plovers, redshanks, great crested grebes and oystercatchers around the wetlands.
Millom is tiny, but has none of the jams and crowds of the villages in the nearby Lakes. The Camra-rated Bear on the Square has real ales, good food and live music. The town has its own fell – Black Combe – and while only a 600-metre Marilyn, its isolation and proximity to the sea make it feel higher. The views from the summit are magnificent – with Blackpool Tower and Scafell Pike visible in clear weather.
The poet Norman Nicholson (1914-1987) was born in Millom and spent almost all his life here, shunning metropolitan literary circles and asserting that the much-maligned “provincial” has more in common with people of other times and lands and consequently “may be all the more aware of that which is enduring in life and society”. The titles of his books reflect the locale: Rock Face (1948); The Shadow of Black Combe (1978); Sea to the West (1981). St George’s church has a stained-glass window designed by Christine Boyce that was inspired by Nicholson’s writing. His house is being restored, while Millom as a whole is undergoing a major rebuild with heritage and health projects afoot as well as a 7.5-mile walking and cycling trail.
The hills of the Scottish Highlands were still in sight when the cry went up: “Whale!” And there it was, a humpback on the port side of the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry, blasting a great cloud of mist from its blowhole, then with a farewell flick of its tail, disappearing into the Atlantic. On other voyages you may see glorious sunsets, rare migratory birds, ruined castles and historic lighthouses. Unlike the classic road trip or the great railway journey, however, the humble ferry rarely makes it to anyone’s bucket list. They are a means to an end, only chosen by necessity. And yet, the UK has some of the best and most exhilarating voyages within its borders. From exciting river crossings to island odysseys that test the mettle of the best sea captains, these boat journeys can be the high point of any trip.
Whale-watching on the way from Cornwall to the Isles of Scilly
Starting from Penzance’s South Pier, in sight of St Michael’s Mount, the crossing to St Mary’s is the indispensable highlight of any trip to the Isles of Scilly. The gas-guzzling, climate-clobbering helicopter doesn’t even approach the magic of this ship and its three-hour voyage into the Atlantic Ocean. Penzance bursts with nautical heritage; many of its remarkable number of pubs have existed since the days of Captain Kidd and Francis Drake. Once aboard the Scillonian (built in Appledore, Devon, in 1977), find a position with a view to the starboard to glimpse Land’s End on departure, then keep a lookout for wildlife. Dolphins and whales are sighted regularly on the voyage. Birdlife includes gannets, Manx shearwaters and puffins. Watch out for bird feeding frenzies, which may attract the attention of bluefin tuna (the half-ton fish can leap clear of the water and numbers are rising fast). Other potential highlights include fin whales, the planet’s second largest animal after the blue whale – with several sightings in 2024. A day return on the Scillonian III is £35.Woodstock Ark, a secluded cabin near Penzance South Pier, sleeps two, from £133 a night. Star Castle Hotel, close to the Scillonian’s arrival point on St Mary’s, has great food and superb views; doubles with dinner from £245.
A tugboat tow on the River Dart in Devon
There has been a ferry across the River Dart since the 14th century. Photograph: Candy Apple Red Images/Alamy
Dartmouth has a huge heritage of sailing and boats, and the lower ferry across the mouth of the River Dart is an absolute classic. The best approach is on the steam railway from Paignton, which brings you into what was once the Great Western Railway’s imposing Kingswear station on the east bank of the river. Alternatively, you could walk to Kingswear on the South West Coast Path from Brixham (a 10-mile yomp). There has been a ferry here since the 14th century and the latest incarnation is a barge with room for eight cars towed by a tugboat. The crossing is short but memorable, the flanks of the steeply wooded valley looming over a fast-moving tidal river that froths around the barge as it picks its way through a busy shipping lane. Landing is right in town, next to the blue plaque for John Davis, one of the great sea dogs of Devon, who searched for the Northwest Passage and died at the hands of pirates near Singapore in 1605. If the crossing has whetted the appetite, walk upriver along the historic waterfront to the Upper Dart ferry, another interesting boat. Originally a floating platform linked to cross-river chains that were pulled by horses, today it’s a diesel-electric paddle engine combined with cables that can manage about 18 cars. The Lower Dart Ferry costs £5 return for a foot passenger; car and passengers £14 return. Ferryside apartment next to the ferry in Kingswear sleeps four, from £533 for three nights. Further away, Dartington Hall, once Britain’s leading progressive school, is now a top arts centre, offering wonderful gardens and accommodation, withdoubles from £103 B&B.
An exhilarating passage from Berneray toHarris in the Outer Hebrides
A Caledonian MacBrayne ferry docked at Berneray. Photograph: Pearl Bucknall/Alamy
Scotland is blessed with many memorable ferry routes, but none surpasses the short voyage from Berneray to Leverburgh on Harris. A hop of just nine nautical miles and taking an hour, it crosses the shallow Sound of Harris, which is strewn with deadly rocks, dangerous tidal currents and frequent mists. Before GPS, it was a rule that the captain would turn back if he couldn’t see two buoys ahead, and occasionally the ship would slither on to a sandbank and have to stay there until the tide lifted her off. These days it remains an exhilarating passage, weaving between dozens of jagged hazards with evocative names such as Drowning Rock and the Black Curran. Listen for the ghostly cries of seals on the larger islets, and look out for a majestic white-tailed sea eagle. The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry costs £4.70 one way for a foot passenger. Camping at Balranald on North Uist is highly recommended (tent £14), or try 30 Backhill, a restored thatched stone croft on Berneray, from £535a week.
Crossing Harwich harbour from Suffolk to Essex
Passengers boarding the Harwich harbour ferry in Felixstowe, Suffolk. Photograph: Geog Photos/Alamy
As a shortcut at the end of the Suffolk coastal path, the ferry from Landguard Fort near Felixstowe to Harwich offers great panoramas of the harbour formed by the rivers Orwell and Stour. You’re likely to spot some of the planet’s largest container ships and a Thames barge. Alternatively, embark at Shotley Gate, the tip of the narrow and beautiful Shotley peninsula that separates the two rivers – the walk down the Orwell from Ipswich is particularly picturesque, taking in Pin Mill. Harwich old town is also well worth exploring, with some beautiful period buildings including the Electric Cinema, opened in 1911. The Harwich Harbour Ferry connects Felixstowe and Harwich (tickets £6 one way), and Harwich and Shotley (£4.80); it runs from April to October. The Alma Inn is a gorgeous Grade II-listed pub in old Harwich, with doubles from £90 B&B.
A hand ferry across the River Wye in Herefordshire
The barman at the pub in Symonds Yat hauls the ferry across the River Wye. Photograph: Paul Weston/Alamy
There cannot be many ferries that only run when the barman is free, but this classic crossing requires the pump-puller at the Saracens Head in Symonds Yat to shut up shop for a few minutes and haul half a dozen passengers across the River Wye using an overhead cable. Despite some deplorable environmental mismanagement upstream, the river here remains a beautiful sight. On the far bank, take the lane north to another good pub, Ye Old Ferrie Inn. Their ferry drops you on a footpath that heads up through the woods for the fine views along the curving river from the Symonds Yat rock itself. These crags were visited in 1770, by schoolmaster William Gilpin, who had an eye for untamed landscapes, triggering a revolution in the appreciation of views and nature that we still benefit from today. Alternatively, walk downriver and cross at the beautiful Biblins suspension bridge. Both Symonds Yat ferries cost £2 for adults. The Saracens Head occupies a lovely riverside location, with doubles from £135, B&B.
Swivel from Glenelg to the Isle of Skye in the Inner Hebrides
The Glenelg to Skye ferry is a fun alternative to the modern bridge. Photograph: John Bracegirdle/Alamy
You may, of course, choose to take the bridge to Skye, but for a real Hebridean treat take the original ferry across the 500-metre-wide Kyle Rhea straits. This is the last manually operated turntable ferry in the world (built in Troon in 1969), carrying just six cars and 12 people on a five-minute voyage. Due to strong tidal currents running at up to nine knots and frequently windy conditions, the designers came up with the ingenious solution of a turntable to allow vehicles to disembark safely. Saved by a local campaign in 2006, it has now become a vital part of the Skye experience. The Isle of Skye ferry from Glenelg costs£3 for foot passengers, and £20 for a car (with up to four passengers) one way. Sykes Cottages has a number of properties on Skye, including Beaton’s traditional thatched croft, from £457a week.
Cleethorpes Pier, circled by the local gull squad, looks at its picture-postcard best. Ahead of the lunch crowd making for Papa’s Fish & Chips restaurant, I’m taking a seat in the pier’s ballroom to hear seaside historian Kathryn Ferry talk about her latest book, Twentieth Century Seaside Architecture.
Ordering a pot of tea, I’m taken back to my student days. Back in the late 1990s, the ballroom hosted Pier 39, a sticky-floored nightclub where getting your heels wedged in the planks after too many vodkas was considered par for the course. Following a shift waitressing at a nearby fish restaurant, our girl gang would douse our hair in Charlie Red body spray to mask the fug of haddock before dancing the night away where the Humber estuary meets the North Sea.
The pier first opened on August bank holiday 1873 to a flock of locals and day-trippers, many of whom were taking some of the first train and ferry-service packages across the Humber from South Yorkshire and the Midlands. It’s not hard to imagine the giddy thrill of glimpsing this elegant pavilion structure for the very first time: it stretched 365 metres into the sea.
Ferry cites the pier as one of a trove of local architectural treasures: postwar buildings with funky rooflines, illuminations, shops fronted with Victorian cast-iron verandas … “enough surviving seaside things”, she tells the crowd, “to ensure Cleethorpes retains its very distinctive feel”.
I grew up in Grimsby, just a couple of miles up the road. Cleethorpes had long felt like a sandy wonderland, filled with bright lights and sugar highs. During the pandemic, after 20 years living away, I came back to Cleethorpes from London and I now feel lucky to be raising a family in the sandy footsteps of my childhood. Summer feels magical – we are tourists at home. My nine-year-old and toddler both love splashing about in the free, open-air paddling pool, riding the dinky Cleethorpes Coast Light Railway and cycling along Buck Beck – a long, calming coastal path where ice-cream at the family-run Brew Stop cafe is a rite of passage. In summer, you can rent the owners’ little beach hut and watch the world go by from your stripy deckchair.
A pre-war ‘It’s quicker by rail’ poster. Photograph: Artwork by Andrew Johnson. Science & Society Picture Library/Getty Images
During my university and London years – roughly 2000 to 2020 – the resort’s cultural identity began to shift with the closure of iconic venues such as, in 2007, the Winter Gardens. An entertainment venue dating back to the 1930s, its stage was once graced by acts including Elton John, the Clash and Roxy Music, not to mention playing host to the feted “Bags Ball” weekly dance night. Also closed, after a 23-year run as one of the area’s leading theme parks, was Pleasure Island and its beloved Boomerang ride, which ceased functioning in 2016. And some of the area’s big-draw events – including the Radio 1 Roadshow, which made its last stop here in 1999 fronted by S Club 7 – were scratched from the listings. In the words of one local: “It felt like the fun police had come to town.”
Now, building on events such as the Summer Steam festival and the Great Grub Fest, there’s a definite sense of cultural renaissance brewing. Cleethorpes seafront is in the process of a long-awaited £18.4m regeneration project that will focus on a reimagining of the Pier Gardens and the reintroduction of the old market place. With a potential direct train link from Cleethorpes to London in the offing, the resort is extending its bucket-and-spade appeal to a new generation.
On 2August – with the stage still warm from sets by the Charlatans and Ash as part of DocksFest – Cleethorpes’ Meridian showground is set to transform into an open-air celebration of cool and contemporary sounds covering jazz, funk and soul, as the area’s newest festival, Everybody Loves the Sunshine, lays down 10 hours of live music for just £10 a ticket. Together with Brighton-based record label Tru Thoughts, the festival is curated by the Culture House, a local charity that has been instrumental in plugging the cultural gap across North East Lincolnshire, an area that can often feel on the fringes of the national arts and culture scene.
Beyond the music, nature abounds. At Marine Embankment beach, bird lovers can spy curlews, lapwings and oystercatchers nesting in the saltmarshes (check tide times), while the sandy dunes around the Humber Mouth Yacht Club (about an hour’s walk from the Pier) are the perfect spot for big-sky sundowners and picnics. Steel & Soul runs a blissful drop-in morning yoga class on the beach here every other Sunday until the end of September (£10 a class).
A must-visit at this end of the town is the Humberston Fitties, an otherworldly village of about 300 beach chalets that sprang up beside the sand dunes after the first world war. Many of these small dwellings, including artist Sarah Palmer’s home (£80 a night for a two-night minimum stay, sleeps up to four), are available to rent and make a cosy weekend base.
For a stylish home-from-home in the heart of Cleethorpes, check into Cloves B&B (from £95), tucked off the main promenade. Hosts Nick and Maria Ross serve up beautiful home-cooked breakfasts, and if you land on a Friday you can build a picnic hamper from their pop-up larder, which sells freshly baked sourdough and pastries, as well as fruit, veg, cheese, butter and juices, many of which are organic and locally produced. From Saturday to Tuesday, the Edwardian breakfast room then transforms into Cafe Cloves, an intimate dining spot serving a menu of five seasonal dishes. On our last visit, we shared tandoori king prawn skewers with a chopped spinach and red onion salad, cucumber raita and charred lime along with the signature Cloves fishcake – which I could happily eat every day.
Cloves B&B. Photograph: Katie Buffey
Another great spot for lunch is Nasturtium, where head chef Jack Phillips riffs on classics such as catch of the day with a smoked butter sauce, Japanese kosho and a tempura enoki (fried floured mushrooms). Phillips also channels his passion for Asian cooking through his popular pop-up food stall Wakame Cleethorpes. Follow up lunch with a mooch down Sea View Street for boutique threads and heavenly plants and flowers, ending with a slice of lemon meringue pie at Marples.
As for fish and chips – you’re spoilt for choice. An old-fashioned booth at Steel’s Cornerhouse Restaurant for haddock, chips and a pot of tea with bread and butter always feels special. Or, if the weather’s fine, nothing beats walking along the beach with a Papa’s takeaway, eating a tray of chips drenched in vinegar, with the sand between your toes.
“Cleethorpes feels like a sleeper, on the cusp of being awakened,” says Kathryn Ferry. Something tells me this resort is about to have its time in the sun again.
CAPE TOWN, South Africa — The United States has deported five immigrants from Vietnam, Jamaica, Cuba, Yemen and Laos to Eswatini, a small country in southern Africa where the king still holds absolute power.
Eswatini says it is holding the men in correctional facilities until they can be sent to their home countries, after it became the latest nation to accept third-country deportees from the U.S.
Here’s what to know about Eswatini:
The king rules supreme
Eswatini is one of a few countries that are still absolute monarchies, and the only one in Africa. That means the king has absolute power over government and is not just a figurehead or a ceremonial ruler.
King Mswati III has ruled Eswatini since 1986, when he turned 18 and was allowed to take his place as the monarch. He can make decisions by decree. He succeeded his father, Sobhuza II, who died in 1982.
The 57-year-old Mswati III has long been criticized for ruling over a government that suppresses political dissent while he lives a lavish lifestyle in one of the poorest countries in the world.
The king is reported to have 11 wives and has been the subject of scrutiny for buying luxury cars. His wealth has been estimated at between $200 million and $500 million, while the World Bank says more than half of Eswatini’s 1.2 million people live on less than $4 a day.
No political parties
Political parties were banned by Sobhuza II in 1973. Some exist now, but they are not allowed to play any role in elections or the political process and have been reduced to civic society groups. Candidates seeking public office in Eswatini’s Parliament or Senate have to stand as individuals without any party affiliation and are generally approved by traditional leaders loyal to Mswati III.
Pro-democracy protests have grown in recent years and Eswatini authorities under Mswati III have been accused of crushing them using the security forces. Many dissidents live in exile.
Previously Swaziland
The country was previously known as Swaziland but changed to Eswatini in 2018 after the king announced it should revert to its traditional name in the Swazi language. It was Swaziland when it was under British colonial rule, which ended in 1968.
Severely affected by HIV
Eswatini has been severely affected by HIV and has the highest prevalence in the world, with an estimated 26% of the adult population HIV-positive, according to the United Nations AIDS agency.
It has made significant progress in confronting that scourge but has been highly reliant on foreign aid to do that, including assistance from the U.S., which has now been cut by the Trump administration.
CAPE TOWN, South Africa — The United States sent five migrants it describes as “barbaric” criminals to the African nation of Eswatini in an expansion of the Trump administration’s largely secretive third-country deportation program, the U.S. Department of Homeland Security said Tuesday.
The U.S. has already deported eight men to another African country, South Sudan, after the Supreme Court lifted restrictions on sending people to countries where they have no ties. The South Sudanese government has declined to say where those men, also described as violent criminals, are after it took custody of them nearly two weeks ago.
In a late-night post on X, Homeland Security Assistant Secretary Tricia McLaughlin said the five men sent to Eswatini, who are citizens of Vietnam, Jamaica, Cuba, Yemen and Laos, had arrived on a plane, but didn’t say when or where.
She said they were all convicted criminals and “individuals so uniquely barbaric that their home countries refused to take them back.”
The men “have been terrorizing American communities” but were now “off of American soil,” McLaughlin added.
McLaughlin said they had been convicted of crimes including murder and child rape and one was a “confirmed” gang member. Her social media posts included mug shots of the men and what she said were their criminal records and sentences. They were not named.
It was not clear if the men had been deported from prison or if they were detained in immigration operations, and the Department of Homeland Security and U.S. Immigration and Customs Enforcement didn’t immediately respond to requests for clarification.
Four of the five countries where the men are from have historically been resistant to taking back some citizens when they’re deported from the U.S. That issue has been a reoccurring problem for Homeland Security even before the Trump administration. Some countries refuse to take back any of their citizens, while others won’t accept people who have committed crimes in the U.S.
Like in South Sudan, there was no immediate comment from Eswatini authorities over any deal to accept third-country deportees or what would happen to them in that country. Civic groups there raised concerns over the secrecy from a government long accused of clamping down on human rights.
“There has been a notable lack of official communication from the Eswatini government regarding any agreement or understanding with the U.S. to accept these deportees,” Ingiphile Dlamini, a spokesperson for the pro-democracy group SWALIMO, said in a statement sent to The Associated Press.
It wasn’t clear if they were being held in a detention center, what their legal status was or what Eswatini’s plans were for the deported men, he said.
An absolute monarchy
Eswatini, previously called Swaziland, is a country of about 1.2 million people between South Africa and Mozambique. It is one of the world’s last remaining absolute monarchies and the last in Africa. King Mswati III has ruled by decree since 1986.
Political parties are effectively banned and pro-democracy groups have said for years that Mswati III has crushed political dissent, sometimes violently.
Pro-democracy protests erupted in Eswatini in 2021, when dozens were killed, allegedly by security forces. Eswatini authorities have been accused of conducting political assassinations of pro-democracy activists and imprisoning others.
Because Eswatini is a poor country, it “may face significant strain in accommodating and managing individuals with complex backgrounds, particularly those with serious criminal convictions,” Dlamini said.
While the U.S. administration has hailed deportations as a victory for the safety and security of the American people, Dlamini said his organization wanted to know the plans for the five men sent to Eswatini and “any potential risks to the local population.”
U.S. is seeking more deals
The Trump administration has said it is seeking more deals with African nations to take deportees from the U.S. Leaders from some of the five West African nations who met last week with President Trump at the White House said the issue of migration and their countries possibly taking deportees from the U.S. was discussed.
Some nations have pushed back. Nigeria, which wasn’t part of that White House summit, said it has rejected pressure from the U.S. to take deportees who are citizens of other countries.
The U.S. also has sent hundreds of Venezuelans and others to Costa Rica, El Salvador and Panama, but has identified Africa as a continent where it might find more governments willing to strike deportation agreements.
Rwanda’s foreign minister told the AP last month that talks were underway with the U.S. about a potential agreement to host deported migrants. A British government plan announced in 2022 to deport rejected asylum-seekers to Rwanda was ruled illegal by the U.K. Supreme Court last year.
‘Not a dumping ground’
The eight men deported by the U.S. to war-torn South Sudan, where they arrived early this month, previously spent weeks at a U.S. military base in nearby Djibouti, located on the northeast border of Ethiopia, as the case over the legality of sending them there played out.
The deportation flight to Eswatini is the first to a third country since the Supreme Court ruling cleared the way.
The South Sudanese government has not released details of its agreement with the U.S. to take deportees, nor has it said what will happen to the men. A prominent civil society leader there said South Sudan was “not a dumping ground for criminals.”
Analysts say some African nations might be willing to take third-country deportees in return for more favorable terms from the U.S. in negotiations over tariffs, foreign aid and investment, and restrictions on travel visas.
Imray and Gumede write for the Associated Press. Gumede reported from Johannesburg. AP writer Rebecca Santana in Washington contributed to this report.
Some British resorts are about the beach. In others it’s walking along the prom. The fashionable ones push gastronomy, drink, street art, culture. Others stick to arcades, funfairs, kids’ stuff. Llandudno delivers all of these and a bit more besides – and it does so unpretentiously, warmly and ever so slightly Welshly.
My introduction came in the 1980s, when we – my Lancashire family, or rather, families, as my divorced mum and dad took us separately to Wales – descended from our chalet or static above Abergele and hit Llandudno high street. There, I was bought my first serious football kit – Wales away, yellow with green and red upside down Js. The “shops were better” in Llandudno. They still are, with the main drag, Mostyn Street, boasting chains and independents, Victorian arcades and Clare’s department store – still going after almost a century.
Llandudno was always busy, fun, a little bit upmarket. Perhaps an innate confidence has helped it fare better than other north Wales seaside towns. When I went last year, there were coach parties from Manchester and South Yorkshire. Locals – lots of them “expats” from England – were sunning themselves on benches. It was May, but sweltering, and the ice-cream vendors were scooping frantically, the chippies turning out endless trays of cod and chips. At the end of the pier there’s a pub – a great idea – and the alfresco benches were all taken.
Great Orme can be reached by a funicular tramway opened in 1902. Photograph: Alamy
The prom along the main beach, known as the North Shore, is a sweeping beauty of wedding-cake terraces, with a wide walking and cycling path running for almost two miles, shelters to use as shades or suntraps, a paddling pool and an Alice in Wonderland art trail (the real Alice holidayed here). Dylan’s Restaurant is installed inside the former Washington hotel, a stunning corner building by prominent local architect Arthur Hewitt – also responsible for Llandudno’s Winter Gardens and Savoy and Palladium cinemas; the latter survives as a pub.
Llandudno is framed by two limestone headlands – the Little Orme and Great Orme – at either end of town. The latter, mined in prehistoric times for copper and other ores, has a cable-hauled tramway and Kashmiri goats that became famous in 2020 during the pandemic, when they came down to the town centre looking for company, and hedges to eat. You can see the Isle of Man, Blackpool Tower and the Cumbrian fells from the top.
West Shore, below the Great Orme, is backed by dunes and feels a lot more natural. It has lovely sunsets and lively winds, drawing kite-flyers and kite-surfers.
Walking around town, which has sloping streets and narrow nooks to get lost in, you often catch sight of the rocky summits of Eryri (Snowdonia). I don’t know any other major resort in the UK that’s so close to serious hillwalking territory.
Over the years, Llandudno has been declared the daffodil capital, startup capital and fish and chip capital of north Wales. At the top end of the A470 – the Welsh Route 66, which starts in Cardiff – it is arguably the region’s main urban centre, though Wrexham might have a thing or two to say about that. No one, though, disputes Llandudno’s status as the queen of Welsh resorts.
Llandudno’s sand dune-lined West Shore. Photograph: John Davidson Photos/Alamy
One evening, during my visit last year, a sea fret descended on Llandudno Bay. I was walking along the prom from the pier towards Craig-y-Don – a sometime suburb long ago subsumed by Llandudno – and the Little Orme. Joggers and scooter riders appeared like wraiths out of the dense murk. The Alice in Wonderland statues looked spooky and out of place. The terraces looked grey and ghostly in the dimness. Suddenly, as I progressed east, the mist beat a complete retreat, warm sunlight pervading like an epiphany. Llandudno looked utterly beautiful, as if reborn, or at least rediscovered.
Part of this was no doubt childhood memories flooding back. But it was also a sense of being genuinely taken aback. Llandudno is a major town and a resort, a place to live as well as to holiday, a Welsh location that has always welcomed outsiders, and an urban centre with wild edges. It has endured by maintaining traditions and keeping up. I think it’s special, a little bit magical. Where to stay:St George’s is a well-preserved seafront hotel dating from the Victorian era, with a great restaurant. Doubles from £114, B&B Chris Moss
Folkestone, Kent
Folkestone has gained fresh appeal through its new Creative Quarter. Photograph: stockinasia/Getty Images
When I cycle down Folkestone’s Earls Avenue, I can see the sea before I reach the end of the street. I turn left on to the clifftop promenade, the Leas, and the view across the Channel is suddenly expansive. This mile-long stretch is lined with Edwardian and Georgian hotels and modern apartments, in a spectrum that runs from faded to grandeur. Works in progress include another apartment complex and a 1930s toilet block being repurposed into a cafe. I have a drone’s-eye view of the curve of new-build apartments on the beach, but prefer to look across the water, where the stubby silhouette of Dungeness power station appears and disappears with the visibility.
To swim, I can head down to Mermaid Beach, with its easy incline into the water. The Zig Zag Path is the way to get there (at least until the funicular Leas Lift is restored in 2026). The convincing grottos of this 1920s path were hewn from Pulhamite: fake rock with genuine charm, which still fools casual visitors.
Well-heeled Edwardians once paraded on the Leas, and it’s cited as evidence of Folkestone’s glory days that Edward VII frequented the Grand hotel. Our French neighbours once thought Folkestone a prestigious holiday destination, as did many English. Booming summer seasons may have departed with budget flights, but the past two decades have delivered newsworthy regeneration. The logic of the Creative Folkestone foundation – one of the ways through which philanthropist Roger De Haan has pumped tens of millions of pounds into the local economy – has been to make Folkestone a great place to live and work, on the basis that visitors will follow.
The Grand is now private residences, and was crowned in 2014 with a Yoko Ono morse code artwork. There are several subtle contemporary artworks on the Leas, and tens more throughout the town and on its beaches – from an Antony Gormley statue gazing out to sea, to Lubaina Himid’s Jelly Mould Pavilion on the boardwalk. These are the legacy of the Folkestone Triennial, Creative Folkestone’s flagship project since 2008. The open-air exhibition, which returns for summer 2025 (19 July-19 October), has helped transform the town’s fortunes, assisted by a game-changing high-speed rail link to London. To live here is to encounter art, gently and often. The one time I lost my children for a significant length of time, they turned out to be investigating a Mark Wallinger piece.
One of Antony Gormley’s figures gazes out from Folkestone Pier. Photograph: Sopa Images/Getty
In recent years, visitor numbers have risen, as have (thornier subject) house prices. In part, that’s down to the buzz of the Harbour Arm, where quirky food and drinks vendors have repurposed train carriages, shipping containers and even the lighthouse. I favour Sail Box, on the very tip of the arm, for the scale of its sea view and pancake stacks. In town, the subsidised Creative Quarter sees independent businesses spill down the Old High Street – where Steep Street coffee offers a Parisian-inspired books-and-cakes combo – to the artists’ studios on Tontine Street.
Folkestone has so many things it didn’t have 10 years ago: the world’s first multistorey skatepark; a New York Highline-inspired garden walkway, leading to the revitalised Harbour Arm; an annual Pride, and LGBTQ+ bookshop; mini golf on the beach. A Labour MP. And, as of spring 2025, a Reform-led council. So, we’ve still got range.
One of my favourite things is not new, it’s simply to linger on the beach whenever seals or porpoises are in the water. One Sunday, a pod of dolphins splashed about for 30 minutes in view of where I sat with friends and kids, beach-bar drinks in hand. It’s really hard to beat Folkestone on a hot day, with dolphins. Where to stay: overlooking the harbour a short walk from town, the London and Paris Hotel has 11 pretty rooms, doubles from £175, room only Sophy Grimshaw
Scarborough, North Yorkshire
Scarborough is in line for £20m from the government to fund regeneration. Photograph: curved-light/Alamy
Scarborough residents refer to visitors as “comforts”, because they have usually “Come for t’ day”, rather than the week, as was once the seaside norm. The negative shift helps explain why Scarborough will receive £20m from the government’s Plan for Neighbourhoods, to fund significant regeneration over the next decade.
The plan is designed for “left-behind” communities. If Scarborough is left behind, it is also majestic, what with the great sweep of the two bays, divided by the verdant castle headland. Most of its main attractions – which tend to be commensurately large-scale – are unaffected by the current regeneration, since the town has been quietly maintaining them for decades, even centuries.
Scarborough’s spa is among its oldest attractions. Photograph: Martin Williams/Alamy
Take the place where it all began, not only Scarborough tourism but seaside holidays in general. Scarborough Spa stands adjacent to a spring, whose salty waters oozing from the base of a cliff were promoted as therapeutic in the early 17th century. The gentry came to drink them, along with other things. “Health is the pretence, dissipation is the end,” wrote one 18th-century visitor, and the spa was the focus of the jollity. A storm destroyed the first spa in 1836. Its replacement burned down in 1876, the present baroque palace arising three years later. Whereas the spa was once associated with dinner-jacketed palm court orchestras, a more characteristic modern bill-topper would be Tony Skingle (who “IS” Elvis). But the vision is consistent: a night out is improved by the proximity of the sea.
Similar doggedness is evident in the history of the nearby South Cliff Lift, opened in 1875. Back then, the power was hydraulic. Today, the system is fully automatic, but the cars are still made of wood, one descending as the other ascends, like floating garden sheds.
They carry passengers up through the near-vertical South Cliff Gardens, recently refurbished and underpinned. Subdivisions include the genteel Rose Garden, which was created in 1883 and has been carefully tended ever since (it’s not easy to grow roses by the sea), including a major restoration in 2015.
On the North Bay, Peasholm Park was opened in 1912, with an oriental theme, which (this being Scarborough) meant an Oriental Garden surmounted by a pagoda and surrounded by a fairy-lit boating lake. Such playfulness did not suit the brash 1970s, and the park went to seed, but a programme of renewal brought a Grade II listing in 1999. The narrow-gauge North Bay Railway also runs through gardens, and has done since 1931, skirting the Open Air Theatre, which closed in 1986 but was triumphantly relaunched in 2010.
Peasholm Park has an oriental theme. Photograph: Paul Heaton/Alamy
Now, let us return to the South Bay and the harbour, where the white lighthouse has stood like a cake decoration since 1806. Well, more or less. The original was destroyed by the German bombardment of 1914, its replacement erected in 1931. The harbour is attractively gritty: at low water, the pleasure boats are slumped in the mud. The kids with their crab lines seem to be emulating the adult fishers, who operate around the Victorian buildings of the West Pier.
The current regeneration does include the West Pier, where a hoarding announces plans for a multimillion-pound refurbishment, “improving amenities for local people and visitors”. But when you ask the local people about this, you encounter eye rolls and dark muttering. Their suspicion is that the pier will become too touristy at the expense of the fishing, and the plans are on hold for consultations. Scarborough has generally polished – rather than recut – the jewels in its crown, so I trust the harbour will not be too drastically “improved”. Where to stay: Weston Hotel on Esplanade, Scarborough’s poshest street, has doubles from £100, room only Andrew Martin To the Sea By Trainby Andrew Martin is published by Profile Books on 31 July (£18.99).To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply
Portobello, Edinburgh
Portobello beach and promenade look out across the Firth of Forth and over to Fife. Photograph: Maurizio Vannetti/Alamy
A starling skips from wall to floor to table on the Portobello promenade, eager to nick the parmesan from the preposterously large slice of pizza I’ve acquired from Edinburgh institution Civerinos. On the beach to my right, sunbathers battle melting ice-creams, dogs disrupt beach volleyball bouts and kids dig for Australia. Beyond, bobbing heads brave the North Sea chill, knowing the wood-fired Soul Water Sauna is waiting back on the prom if they get a little nippy.
Portobello is a trendy spot these days. The coastal suburb of Edinburgh is only a 30-minute bus ride from the city centre, but “Porty” has its own identity, distinct from the capital.
“I loved growing up here,” says Michael Pedersen, Edinburgh’s makar (poet laureate). “I loved the sea. I loved the arcade. I loved Arthur’s Seat looming in the background like a behemoth bull seal about to enter a brawl. But it didn’t feel like you were in a trendy, chic epicentre of a place. It felt like you were on the outskirts, trying to claw your way back in.”
The neon storm of Nobles – a battlement-themed penny arcade on the promenade – offers a portal to Porty’s past. Portobello was incorporated into Edinburgh in 1896, when it was one of Scotland’s most popular seaside resorts. Cheap tram and train access brought the masses in from Edinburgh and Glasgow, and an open-air pool and pleasure pier awaited them. Both of those attractions are long gone – the rise of package holidays ending the boom – but the Victorian swimming baths (and Edinburgh’s only Turkish baths) remain, council-run. As I backstroke under bunting strung across the pool, the sun shines through the glass roof, illuminating the columns and gallery.
It is not nostalgia that draws people to Porty today, though. It is – as well as veggie eateries such as Go Go Beets and speciality coffee spot Tanifiki – the rebellious flair of the community and what they’ve created. In 2017, for example, a Georgian church in town was due to be sold off. Luxury flats beckoned, but local campaign group Action Porty intervened and led a rare urban community buyout. It’s now Bellfield – home to a community cafe, art classes and ceilidhs.
“When we moved here in the 1990s, Portobello was very down-at-heel,” says Justin Kenrick, chair of Action Porty, as we stroll the promenade. “Newspapers called it dangerous. What we’re trying to fight off now is the place turning into one big holiday let. If there’s no community, there’s no point.”
The town hall was also saved by the community. It hosts regular events, such as Porty Pride’s annual ball, top Scottish comedians and sold-out showcases from Edinburgh’s Discovery Wrestling.
Civerinos pizzeria, on the Portobello waterfront, is a local institution
The main draw for many visitors is The Portobello Bookshop, a beloved indie with Corinthian columns. “You see people really warming to anything anybody does that is enhancing the community,” owner Jack Clark tells me. Their exceptional events programme has brought in authors from Eimear McBride to Zadie Smith. Pedersen packed out the bookshop in May to launch his debut novel Muckle Flugga, glimmers of which were inspired by his home town.
Pedersen has seen the Portobello skyline demolished and rebuilt since his childhood. “It’s so important, as independent businesses get successful and the area becomes more affluent, to invest in community groups,” the poet says. “The fact that there are these buildings coming back into community leases and hands retains a lot of the integrity of the area.
“I love Portobello in all its foibles and flaws; all its chintzy glamour; all its new-wave chicness.”
Walk along the promenade, looking across the Firth of Forth to Fife, and it’s easy to see why. Where to stay: Straven Guesthouse is a traditional, family-run place close to the promenade, doubles from £107, B&B (minimum two nights) Stuart Kenny
Between Aberystwyth and Cardigan the quiet coastline is sublime, with incredible sunsets, dizzying and spectacular coastal paths, gorgeous quiet beaches and dolphins. Start in Dylan Thomas’s old stomping ground, New Quay, and follow the coastal path south along cliffs and past Cwmtydu beach before finishing at gorgeous Llangrannog, where you get two beaches for one (perfect Cliborth beach requires a lower tide to access). Kayaking and surfing are great, and the Pentre Arms provides refreshments with a view. Matt Lunt
A scenic parkrun near Sunderland
The Leas, South Shields. Photograph: Dan Cooke/Alamy
The Leas near South Shields (a few miles north of Sunderland) is a beautiful stretch of limestone cliffs and coastal grassland that is a haven for sea birds and wildflowers. There are footpaths and bridle paths across the Leas, so it attracts cyclists, dog walkers and runners all year round. The local parkrun uses the paths and it must be one of the most scenic in the country. The rock stacks along the coast are a great place for spotting cormorants, fulmars and kittiwakes among others. No matter the weather I love to walks these paths and feel the fresh sea breeze through my hair. A wonderful place. Matty
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The holy Crail, Fife
The Fife coast path. Photograph: Iain Masterton/Alamy
Fife is a glorious peninsula bordered by a brilliant coastal path that takes in a variety of beaches, fishing villages and is an area rich in wildlife and diverse landscapes. The area from Crail to St Andrews is of particular beauty, with several gorgeous places to stop for lunch, such as Cambo Gardens cafe near Kingsbarns and the Cheesy Toast Shack at East Sands in St Andrews. There are loads of places to stay and use as a base to explore the region. The larch-clad cabins at Kinkell Byre offer the opportunity to rest in style. And farther north are the wonderful forest trails and sand dunes of Tentsmuir. Stevie Kirkwood
Cornwall’s Celtic rainforest
A window on the Helford River. Photograph: Georgia Raybould/Alamy
Wander the banks of the River Fal and Helford River in south Cornwall, through ancient Celtic rainforest, where the trees meet the sea. This rare habitat gives us a glimpse of prehistory, with lichen-laden branches, crisp, damp air and some of the UK’s rarest wildlife. It feels otherworldly, yet oddly familiar. Amy
Electric waves of Ynys Môn (Anglesey)
Bioluminescent plankton at Penmon Point. Photograph: Eleanor Hamilton/Alamy
Penmon Point on the easternmost point of Ynys Môn is a great place to watch for sea birds. The stunning Trwyn Du lighthouse looks out to Puffin Island, and if you’re lucky, one might fly right past you. But we have seen even more magic there when it gets dark. If conditions are just right, the waves light up electric blue with bioluminescent plankton as they crash over the pebbles. For refreshments, the Pilot House Cafe is nearby and has a fantastic view from its garden. Chris Jones
Poignant history in Morecambe Bay
Around 300 years ago, Sunderland Point was an important port. Photograph: Kevin Eaves/Alamy
You need to consult your tide tables before visiting Sunderland Point on Morecambe Bay. This extraordinary place of sea-sucked mudflats, salt marsh and vast skies is cut off daily at high tide. I cross the causeway in May when the sea pinks (sea thrift) are flowering and the air is bright with the cries of birds – oystercatchers, curlew and redshanks. It feels remote, but in the 18th century Sunderland Point was a bustling port for Lancaster’s transatlantic trade, which brought prosperity but also inhumanity. A walk round the peninsula leads to the grave of an unknown child slave abandoned here in 1736, now adorned by visitors with painted stones. Its bleak beauty will break your heart. Morag Reavley
The River Foyle at Culmore Point, Derry. Photograph: Thomas Lukassek/Alamy
I’ve been walking my dog on the same stretch of coast for four years and I never tire of the sheer strangeness of it. Culmore Point is where Derry’s River Foyle meets the North Atlantic. Some days you can see a line in the water where the silt-filled Foyle meets the sea. Beautiful old-money houses look out across the water to a power station and chemical plant. Farther downstream the weird treeless landscape of the reclaimed land of Eglinton Embankment catches the eye. Spare a thought too for the young men who trained on these river beaches in May 1944 for the Normandy assaults a month later. Keiran
Fossils, tidal flats and birds in Merseyside
Hilbre Island at the mouth of the Dee estuary. Photograph: Jason Wells/Alamy
From West Kirby on Wirral, you can walk across the tidal flats of the Dee estuary to the red sandstone formations of Little Eye, Middle Eye, and Hilbre Island, a string of uninhabited islands offering naught but spectacular nature. In summer you can spot grey seals hauling themselves on to sandbanks, and three types of terns (common, little and sandwich) darting past. Listen out for skylarks and meadow pipits too. For an extra challenge, search for the Triassic-era Chirotherium footprint. Always check tide times carefully, and for extra awe, time your return to the sun setting low, framed by the distant Welsh hills. Sarah
A cycle by the sea in Aberdeenshire
The art deco tea pavilion at Tarlair. Photograph: John Bracegirdle/Alamy
Cycling along the North East Coastal Trail from Portsoy to Macduff in Aberdeenshire is my idea of heaven. In stunning coastal countryside you cycle through charming fishing villages with historic harbours. I’ve spotted dolphins, porpoises and seals on the route. On a rocky coastline just beyond Macduff, there’s an old tidal pool at Tarlair. Though no longer used for swimming, its beautifully restored art deco tea pavilion is the perfect spot to refuel before your journey back. While there, take a short wander to the secluded Salmon Howie beach tucked behind the cliffs – it’s such a beautiful spot. Peter Diender
Winning tip: fin-du-monde vibes in East Yorkshire
Barmston Beach, near Bridlington. Photograph: Imagebroker/Alamy
When, as a child, I read Z For Zachariah, I imagined a landscape with the exact fin-du-monde energy of the East Yorkshire beach from Ulrome to Bridlington. On this stretch of Holderness, you’ll find neither the Norfolk chalk boards of iced latte and shakshuka nor the monastic ghosts of farther north. But if six miles of uninterrupted beach walk – in the company of nothing more glamorous than pure air, weather and proper decay (not the genteel sort) – is your thing, this is a place you should visit. Morcheeba soundtrack optional. Tired legs and a cleansed soul guaranteed. Eliza Ainley
Germany arrested the leader and several members of the so-called “Kingdom of Germany” group, which it said “created a counter-state in Germany and ran criminal financial operation.” Photo by Ronald Wittek/EPA-EFE
May 13 (UPI) — The leader of a secessionist group known as the “Kingdom of Germany” was arrested Tuesday morning with supporters for allegedly running a counter-German state, which government officials have now banned.
Peter Fitzek, 59, along with three others, were arrested in raids across seven German states aided by roughly 800 law enforcement personnel as leaders of the so-called “Reichsburger” — also known as “citizens of the Reich” — which seek to establish the Konigreich Deutschland, or a “Kingdom of Germany.”
“These extremists created a counter-state in Germany and ran criminal financial operations,” German Interior Minister Alexander Dobrindt said Tuesday in a statement, accusing the group of trying to “undermine the rule of law.”
Meanwhile, a fifth property was searched in Switzerland.
Founded in 2012 to the east in Wittenberg in the state of Saxony-Anhalt, the so-called “Kingdom of Germany” allegedly ran unlicensed banking operations, promoted its own set of laws, had currency, a flag and ID cards with Fitzek as “King Peter I,” who in turn appointed two deputies and a finance chief in the scheme.
The German Empire under the Hohenzollern dynasty ended with the abdication of Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1918 at the end of World War One which then saw to several years of instability and ultimately the rise of facism lead by Nazi party leader Adolf Hitler, who became German chancellor in 1933.
“This is not about harmless nostalgia,” Dobrindt said Tuesday.
According to officials, Fitzek was previously convicted of running an illegal banking operation.
Dobrindt said no weapons had been seized in the raids.
“However, that was not to be expected,” he pointed out, adding how the group did not appear to be particularly interested in weaponry, but others “are known to have a fundamental affinity for” them.
There are roughly 25,000 “Reichsburger” members nationwide in groups who seek to overthrow Germany’s government, according to its domestic intelligence agency.
They’re known to be largely right-wing or anti-Semitic extremists in numbers that have grown over the years.
“I have no interest in being part of this fascist and satanic system,” Fitzek told the BBC in 2022, calling the German state “destructive and sick.”
The arrests arrived on top of calls to ban the far-right “Alternative for Germany” party, backed by White House adviser Elon Musk, which is now the largest opposition party in the German parliament.
“They reinforce their bogus claim to power with antisemitic conspiracy theories,” Dobrindt added.
In March, five people tied to the “Citizens of the Reich” were jailed in an alleged plot to overthrow Germany’s federal government in a far-right coup.
“A constitutional democracy cannot tolerate this,” the Germany interior minister stated Tuesday.