journeys

I found two luxurious pub stayovers to break up the long motorway journeys across Britain

Collage of The King's Arms exterior and interior rooms.

WHETHER you’re slogging it to Cornwall like writer Ellie O’Mahoney, or journeying to Scotland like Editor in Chief Sinead McIntyre, find a sleepover fit for a king en route.

Living in London, we dread the long drive back from my mum’s in Cornwall – on a bad day, it can take eight hours.

Bag a two-night family stay at The Crown, Chertsey – enter at Fabulous mag.co.uk.* Credit: Supplied by PR
There are thrills aplenty at nearby Thorpe Park – one of the UK’s best theme parks Credit: Supplied by PR
Family rooms at The Crown, Chertsey, cost from £150 B&B Credit: Supplied by PR

So, for a half-term treat, we check into historic pub The Crown, sitting on Chertsey high street in Surrey, not far from the M3.

Tucking into pea, wild garlic and ham soup with house focaccia, £8, and pork, honey and mustard sausages with mash and greens, £16.50, soon melts away memories of roadworks and brake lights.

As does a rhubarb rosé aperitif, £11, while the kids wolf down the pub’s signature cheeseburger and fries, £9.

Delicious sticky toffee and banana pud with salted caramel ice cream, £6, almost defeats us before we stroll over to the pub’s modern extension.

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While the exterior has the air of a municipal building, our room is fab.

The bed is huge and the kids’ sofa beds are, according to my eight year old, the “comfiest in the world”.

A jar of insanely good brownies, Cadbury’s hot-choc sachets and the “borrow box” full of age-perfect reads, including Percy Jackson and Diary Of A Wimpy Kid, plus playing cards and mini Jenga, also go down a treat.

The kids even have their own TV!

The decor is anything but childish, though, with an air of 1950s university lounge, complete with a cream Roberts Radio.

The only thing to improve?

The skylight with no blind directly over the kids’ beds means we all wake up at sunrise.

French toast with mascarpone and raspberries, £10, soon hits the spot, however, and with Thorpe Park just five minutes’ drive away, there’s really no excuse not to drop in.

It’s just a good job my husband left some time after brekky before braving 80mph coaster Stealth!

Family rooms at The Crown, Chertsey, cost from £150 B&B (Crownchertsey.co.uk).

Entry to Thorpe Park for adults and kids over 1.2m costs from £32 (Thorpepark.com).

Lake District Layover: The King’s Arms, Cumbria

Half an hour off the M6, in the tranquil Lake District village of Hawkshead, this pub offers a top-notch reset on our way to Scotland.

The eight beautifully decorated bedrooms are all named after kings.

The Kings Arms, Hawkshead Cumbria Credit: Supplied
Double rooms cost from £113 B&B (Kingsarmshawkshead.com) Credit: Supplied
The food is absolutely delicious and leaves you wanting the whole menu Credit: Jenny Jones

Ours, the King Charles, has a super-king-size bed, window seat and ensuite, where a drench shower and local toiletries are a welcome refresh.

Across the hall, my 15-year-old twins sprawl out in the twin King William room, digging into home-made biscuits.

The pub is as traditional as they come, and we enjoy drinks and card games before dinner, which is royally good.

All ingredients are locally sourced, so the menu changes with the seasons.

We loved the smoked haddock scotch egg with curry alioli and puffed wild rice, £12, and king scallop with kashmiri sauce, £13, while the fisherman’s pie with spinach and asparagus, £24, makes for a delicious main, as does beef cheek with confit chateau potatoes, £27.50.

The beef suet sticky toffee pud with spiced whisky sauce, £12, is also a delight.

Come morning, yoghurt, muesli, mini pastries and an incredible full English leaves us stuffed all the way to Aviemore.

Double rooms cost from £113 B&B (Kingsarmshawkshead.com).

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Historic gem in Brandenburg, Germany

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Alpine beauty on the Montreux to Interlaken line

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From Montreux station I took the MOB railway to Interlaken. Weaving up through vineyards, Lac Léman shimmers below as the panorama broadens. Suddenly, you’re in pine forests and glimpsing jagged mountain crests. Bridges straddle rushing white water. The clanging and hooting warnings for road crossings. A long tunnel. Then burst into alpine pastures peppered with chalets. Le Pays d’Enhaut. Valleys filled with crisp air, summer cowbells, flowers and crickets – perfect for long walks. Or winter-snow-muffled land, all skis and fondues. Arriving in Château-d’Œx feels like discovering a new world.
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The train trip from Belgrade to Bar must be one of the slowest in Europe, taking 11 hours to cover 296 miles. At €23, it was probably the best-value travel money I’ve ever spent. In fact, the train trip was about the only time in my life when I longed for a journey to go slower rather than faster. It took me through some of the most dramatic scenery I’ve ever seen. Passing through deep gorges, canyons and mountain peaks, the train crossed more than 400 bridges and seemed to stop at every village. The Mala Rijeka viaduct was a highlight. The route took in spectacular dams, ancient monasteries and stone houses where old black-clad women waved at us from open kitchen windows. At one point, the passengers got out to feed a herd of goats and once we were overtaken by a mountain cowboy on a galloping horse. For the last part, you can see swimmers and sunbathers on Adriatic beaches.
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When time is not important, a little-known French railway line allows you to enter Switzerland through the valley of the watchmakers. The line from Besançon in France drifts through the beautiful Jura foothills, and on to Le Locle, a town at the centre of the Swiss watchmaking industry since the 1600s, terminating at La-Chaux-de-Fonds. No one got on or off at L’Hôpital-du-Grosbois, a byway station named after a leprosy hospital. At Morteau, the French border station, the douanes (customs officials) seemingly left a long time ago. A line that Dr Beeching would have closed still delivers you into Switzerland “on time”.
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Best way to see the Pyrenees? On a little yellow train

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