Italys

Both Puglia and the Amalfi Coast are ideal if your idea of a holiday involves spending your days wandering around pretty coastal towns, stopping for seafood and taking a dip in the Mediterranean

There is a reason the Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most famous holiday destinations. The combination of dramatic cliffs, turquoise water, colourful villages and incredible Italian food makes it almost impossible not to fall in love with it. But there is also a downside to being somewhere that beautiful and well-known: everyone else wants to visit, too.

I recently travelled around southern Puglia, which sits east of Amalfi across Italy, and I found myself constantly comparing the two. Both regions have a lot in common: they’re hot, beautiful and have an unmistakable Mediterranean atmosphere.

But one thing in particular sets them apart. Instead of huge crowds filling every viewpoint, I found myself in Puglia walking through quiet streets where locals were still going about their everyday lives. The region isn’t exactly a secret, with places such as Alberobello firmly on the tourist trail, but it’s still much easier to escape the crowds there.

So how else do the regions match up?

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Landscape and towns

The biggest similarity between Puglia and the Amalfi Coast is, unsurprisingly, the sea. Both destinations are ideal if your idea of a holiday involves spending your days wandering around pretty coastal towns, stopping for seafood and taking a dip in the Mediterranean.

The Amalfi Coast is famous for its steep cliffs, with towns seemingly built into the mountainsides above the sea. Puglia, meanwhile, is generally much flatter. I didn’t mind losing the cliffside views as Puglia’s flatness made exploring much easier. You don’t have to spend your day navigating steep roads and packed coastal viewpoints.

Otranto is a perfect case in point. Located on the Adriatic coast, the easternmost city in Italy has scenery you might expect on the Amalfi Coast, but with a much quieter atmosphere. This fortified old town is packed with tiny streets, historic buildings and restaurants, while the seafront opens out onto bright blue water.

I never felt overwhelmed by tourists there. I could simply wander around without having to constantly dodge people or wait for a gap to take a photograph. Greek and Byzantine influences have shaped the town, as did a brutal massacre in 1480 when Ottoman forces killed hundreds of residents who refused to renounce their Christian faith. The event is still remembered at Otranto Cathedral, where the remains of the 800 martyrs are kept.

Travel a little further south and you’ll reach Alberobello, the most touristy town in Southern Puglia. Alberobello is probably the most famous destination in Puglia, thanks to its extraordinary trulli: small whitewashed stone houses with distinctive conical roofs.

There are more than 1,400 trulli in the town, and the area has UNESCO World Heritage status. It is incredibly pretty, but also extremely touristy. The main streets are packed with souvenir shops, restaurants and visitors taking photographs, so if you’re expecting to discover a completely hidden Italian village, you might be disappointed.

But I found an easy way around this. Cross the town’s valley into Rione Aia Piccola and the atmosphere changes almost immediately. This is a residential area where people still live in traditional dry-stone huts, called trulli, and the streets are noticeably quieter.

The contrast summed up my experience of Puglia: even in the places that are undeniably touristy, there’s another side to discover if you’re willing to walk a little further.

Which is cheaper?

One of the biggest advantages Puglia has over the Amalfi Coast is the price. The star-studded West Coast has a reputation for being expensive, particularly in famous towns such as Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, where accommodation and restaurants can quickly add up.

Puglia isn’t necessarily a budget destination, particularly in peak summer, but I found it much easier to eat well without spending a fortune. Otranto was particularly affordable, with filling paninis and seafood dishes for around €12 or less. On the Amalfi Coast, finding a bargain is nearly impossible. You find yourself paying a premium simply for a location and view.

The food

This is an area where Puglia and the Amalfi Coast have plenty in common. Both regions make excellent use of fresh seafood, vegetables, olive oil and wine, but they have their own specialities.

In Puglia, olive oil is everywhere, used liberally along with tomatoes, almonds, fresh root vegetables and local cheeses. One of the region’s most famous foods is orecchiette, the small ear-shaped pasta traditionally served with broccoli rabe, while burrata is another staple.

I also kept coming across focaccia barese, a soft bread topped with tomatoes and olives, as well as panzerotti, fried pockets of dough usually filled with tomato and mozzarella. Along the coast, seafood naturally features heavily, with octopus, mussels and other freshly caught fish appearing on menus.

The Amalfi Coast has its own distinctive flavours. Lemons are perhaps the biggest one. The region is famous for its large Amalfi lemons, which are used in everything from desserts and drinks to savoury dishes, while delizia al limone and limoncello are two of the most recognisable treats.

Seafood is also central to the Amalfi Coast, with dishes such as seafood scialatielli, a type of fresh pasta, and totani e patate, squid cooked with potatoes.

Which Italian destination is better?

It’s not that Puglia has made me fall out of love with the Amalfi Coast. The destination is spectacular, and there is a reason millions of people want to see those famous cliffs and colourful villages for themselves.

But after travelling around Puglia, I found myself wondering whether it might actually be the better choice for a traveller who wants a quieter, more authentic experience. If you want dramatic cliffside scenery, glamorous restaurants and famous Instagram views, Amalfi is hard to beat. But if you’re after beautiful beaches, historic coastal towns, incredible Italian food and somewhere less crowded, I’d seriously consider Puglia.

Book it

You can visit Puglia as part of Great Rail Journeys’ eight-day ‘Hidden Gems of Southern Puglia’ trip, starting from £1,799 per adult, based on double occupancy.

The price includes return flights from London Gatwick or Heathrow to Brindisi, accommodation at a four-star all-inclusive resort, all coach travel, and guided tours and excursions. You can find out more and book on greatrail.com.

Rust red and burnt sienna speckle the green mountain rising from Lake Iseo. Golden autumn sunlight shimmers on the water. Monte Isola, Italy’s largest lake island, is a peak of sheer cliffs and dense forest, dotted with old fishing hamlets and hillside villages, each as pretty as the terraced villas of Lake Como and Garda, but with far fewer visitors. I arrive at the small port town of Peschiera Maraglio – where striped wooden boats jut from the water like the gondolas of Venice – on a ferry from Sulzano, a five-minute hop across the water.

“Only three people on the island are allowed to own a car: the priest, the doctor and the mayor,” says Chiara, my tour guide from Brescia. Residents can zip up and down the steep island roads on mopeds, and a small fleet of van-sized buses trundle around throughout the day, but nearly all cars are forbidden and visitors have to explore on foot or bike.

Even bikes are banned from boats at the weekend. Not that it matters: the harbour front is lined with bike rentals (from €4 an hour for a standard bike). I’m normally a nervous cyclist, but car-free roads raise my confidence. Plus, most other visitors have the telltale front-wheel wobble of novice riders. This isn’t the place for Lycra and personal bests; the smooth-as-silk, quiet roads are for slow pedalling, and neck swivelling to take in another gorgeous view of Lake Iseo.

The circular lakeside route winds past olive groves tumbling to the shore. I thought I’d need base layers and gloves this far into autumn, but I’m in shorts and a T-shirt and already working up a sweat in 24C sunshine. I pedal through the lakeside hamlet of Sensole in the island’s south-west and stop in Menzino, just along the shore. There’s a cafe-bar catering to cyclists, so I fuel up with an espresso con lake view.

The view from the western side of the island is somewhat marred by a huge concrete factory on the mainland, so I keep my head down on the pedal to Siviano, the island’s capital. The shambling streets are sleepy; the stacked skyline of orange, lemon and magnolia villas is punctuated by the looming facade of Santi Faustino e Giovita church and a medieval stone tower. Monte Isola has been inhabited since the Roman era. Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries left the main towns resembling those on Garda and Como: hillside terraces of wooden-shuttered pastel villas. In the late 18th century, Monte Isola found its main industry: net making. At Retificio La Rete Srl, a small shop and net factory at Siviano’s port, fishing nets have been handwoven for centuries, along with nets for basketball hoops, football goals, shopping bags and hammocks.

At the northern tip of the island, I get the best views of Lake Iseo’s craggiest mountains. The south of the lake is chalk-white bell towers against gently undulating hills, draped in franciacorta vineyards. The north is where jagged peaks scrape the sky, plummeting to the emerald-green lake water. Just off the shore, a speck of an island (Isola di Loreto) is topped with a grand, castle-like building, which Chiara says is privately owned. A flotilla of kayakers from Marone make their way towards the private dock, slipping across the glass-still water.

In Carzano, I pause to admire thepink-and-white facade of San Giovanni Battista church, before cycling along the more functional stretch of road along the eastern shore. The traffic-free spell is broken by an old Fiat Punto, apologetically crawling along the road. Maybe the driver is the doctor or priest.

I complete my circle back in Peschiera Maraglio, where a late lunch of lake fish awaits at La Foresta restaurant. To begin, pickled tench so vinegary it makes my mouth water and a chub carpaccio that tastes like fresh lake water; followed by the island staple of dried, salted sardinas on grilled polenta. “Sardina is not a sardine; it’s actually a type of shad fish,” Chiara explains. “In the middle ages, when Monte Isola had to pay tax to Venice, they didn’t understand how money worked, so they paid in salted sardinas instead.”

As the last ferries leave for the evening, it feels as if I have Peschiera Maraglio to myself. Accommodation is private holiday apartments or restaurants with rooms. At Decio, a modern bistro dominates the ground floor, with a handful of sleek bedrooms above. The glass front shows off an uninterrupted lake view and the room is bathed in orange light at sunset. I spend the evening perched on a stool outside L’Isola dei Sapori, a no-frills alfresco spot where sparkling franciacorta wine is perfectly chilled, and snacks of local salami, olives and fish dishes combine for a light dinner.

The next day, I forgo my bike and lace up my hiking boots. The steep trail to the top of the island begins with the enclosed cobbled streets of Peschiera Maraglio and wends into thick chestnut forest. I pocket a particularly beefy conker, unable to resist the childhood urge for a blinder. My legs start to burn against the gradient – the trail is 450 metres of climbing. Rocks and twisting roots burst through the forest path and there’s a sheer drop to one side, but the glimpses of Lake Iseo between the trees are worth every wheeze.

After an hour, the trees thin out and I emerge at Santuario della Madonna della Ceriola. The striking white sanctuary was built in the 13th century, on the remains of a pagan temple and early Christian chapels. A vast golden altar and detailed frescoes adorn the interior, but it’s the panoramic view outside that really makes the hike worthwhile. The ferry to Sulzano is a toy boat, leaving a white tail of wake.

From up high, I see that autumn colours are already creeping into the forest. I wipe the sweat from my eyes. This view is only going to get prettier as the season evolves, and the prize conkers are yet to fall.

The trip was arranged by Visit Brescia. Bike rental starts at €4 an hour. The ferry from Sulzano to Monte Isola is €2.60 each way. Trains run from Brescia to Sulzano from €4.10. Rooms at Decio start at €90 B&B