The Mirror’s Milo Boyd went to check out a chicken and chips restaurant owned by a 80s hit maker
It seems like the celebrity world and his dog are getting in on the restaurant and pub game at the moment.
There is, of course, Ian McKellen’s The Grapes, James Blunt’s Fox and Pheasant, rugby legend Gavin Henson’s The Fox and even Bertie Blossoms, which is owned by Ed Sheeran.
The reason why stars are investing in the world of food and drink isn’t completely clear, as least from the outside. The restaurant industry is notoriously difficult to make money in, and celebrity-owned restaurants have a chequered history. Planet Hollywood launched in 1991 to great fanfare, thanks to its famous investors, including Bruce Willis, Arnold Schwarzenegger, and Sylvester Stallone. However, it filed for bankruptcy just a few years later. It was followed shortly after by Fashion Cafe, an international restaurant chain fronted by Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer.
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Gemma Krysko, co-director of Manchester-based PR agency We Are Indigo, argues that celebrities who don’t attach their names or faces to hospitality ventures have the best chance of success. Which might sound counterintuitive, given their personal brands are what they trade off.
“People like the authenticity of a restaurant being owned by a family or an independent, or someone who’s working really hard to do well in life and have some success. Sometimes, when people already have a successful background or are quite well off do something, it might feel like it’s a bit tacky,” she told Vice.
Mikkeller is a bar brand with more than 250 branches across 37 countries, so it’s far from an independent joint. However, two of its London venues are the quiet work of 80s musical icon, Rick Astley. You would be forgiven for not knowing that the ‘Never going to give you up’ hitmaker was involved if you just walked past Mikkeller Bar London in Shoreditch or its sister brewpub in Exmouth Market.
The latter looks right at home on the trendy street, with its striped yellow awning, rust-effect signage and space for beer drinkers to spill out front when the sun is shining. It was not like that when I visited in January, to shelter from the rain and to try out the 40 million record-selling artist’s fare.
The two-floor venue contains a bar and restaurant, as well as a brewery that can produce 7.5 hectoliters of beer at a time. The in-house brewery supplies the bar with completely fresh beer, as well as infusing the space with the comforting aroma of malt and hops. I appreciated dining beneath the large, chrome-brushed beer silos and the slightly dramatic towers of stacked potato sacks, which lent the place a feeling, even if the concept of an exposed, Pompidou Centre-style pub feels a little 2010s at this point.
Sadly, the menu doesn’t include any Astley-based Easter eggs (or at least not any I could find), but it does feature a wide range of delicious beers. A pint of Freshly Squeezed IPA for me, and Lucky Saint on draft for my Dry January friend, knocked us back £14.30 in total. Which is pretty much standard in this part of London.
Those with better knowledge of the Lancashire crooner’s back catalogue may be able to glean some hint of Astley in the current drinks list, which includes: Grand, Market Best, Never Enough, Jerry the Berry, Grandma’s Fridge Cake, DDH PCP, Market Weiss, Wonky Chi, Mic Drop, Common Ground, Black Pearl, Beech Life and The Golden Rule. What was conspicuously absent was the singer’s own brew, ginger-infused lager Astley’s Northern Hop.
There is not a huge amount in Astley’s working life beyond music – which includes providing a voice for The LEGO Batman Movie, as a fundraiser for cancer charity Maggie’s Centers and driving for his dad’s market-gardening business – to suggest he’d gone into the chicken and chips business. Or that he’d do it so well.
But both happen to be true. Mikkeller’s food is delicious and good value.
Three of us ate for £55 and left feeling stuffed and satisfied. This is more than I can say for my trip to James Blunt’s pub early in January, when the eye-watering prices meant I chose my bank balance over satiation. For that price in Astley’s place, we got two portions of crinkle cut fries, crispy plant nuggets, a vegan fried chick’n sandwich, and two meaty chicken sandos.
Both types of sandwich were made on a bed of brioche ‘Texas toast’ and stuffed alongside ‘Comeback Sauce’, pickles and vinegar slaw. Clearly, Mikkeller has embraced the latest advances in fake meat production technology as the chick’n had all the crisp, bounce, and tenderness you can hope for from something that has spent no time in a coop. The chicken version was similarly “excellent”, my companions informed me. Other menu options include chicken parm, Caesar salad, and fried chicken strips.
Mikkeller is unlikely to win any awards for restaurant innovation anytime soon. It’s a place that, stylistically, has more in common with Five Guys and Brew Dog than one of the cosy celebrity-owned pubs mentioned above. But what it is, is a spacious, fairly central London brewpub with a great, reasonably priced menu that’s perfect for a spot of Saturday afternoon indulgence.