Hills

Rolling hills, rich heritage and great pubs: a car-free break in Leicestershire | England holidays

Fallow deer are grazing under ruined brick walls in the house where Lady Jane Grey was born. It’s a moody spring day at Bradgate Park in Leicestershire and there are few visitors. Instead, there are fieldfares in the hedges and skylarks singing in the mist. I’m walking, through bracken and craggy outcrops, towards Old John Tower, a folly that looks like a giant beer mug on the hill ahead.

It sometimes feels as though England’s much-photographed beauty spots get more booked up and overpriced every day. But there are scenic corners of the country that still fly under the insta-radar and Charnwood, around Loughborough, is one of these. The largest borough in Leicestershire, Charnwood is the area between Leicester and the Nottinghamshire border. Its gentle wooded hills and well-kept villages offer country walks to gourmet pubs and cafes. It’s like a cheaper, quieter Cotswolds with better transport links.

The Navigation Inn in Barrow upon Soar. Photograph: Terence Wright/Alamy

An hour and a quarter by train from London or 50 minutes from Sheffield, Loughborough is easy to reach. The town makes a good base for a Charnwood holiday, with several immersive, weatherproof experiences and easy rural connections by bus, rail and steam train.

The atmospheric landscapes around popular Bradgate Park are just a few miles south of Loughborough. Bus 154 winds past thatched and half-timbered cottages, rugged granite chimneys and drifts of garden snowdrops. Outside the Badger’s Sett pub, near Cropston Reservoir, you can hop off the bus into Causeway Lane, a quiet stony track leading to Bradgate Park with wide views over the water.

Next morning’s mist turns to rain and I head to the UK’s last remaining bellfoundry for a tour. Fifteen minutes’ stroll from the cafe-lined lanes around the market, the museum was relaunched in 2024. Inside the foundry, there are showers of sparks from a metalworker’s bench, a smell of wood shavings in the bell-wheel workshop, and an 18ft-deep sandpit for cooling casts.

Loughborough is home to the UK’s last working bellfoundry.
Photograph: John Keates/Alamy

Loughborough Bellfoundry has made bells for cathedrals around the world, from York Minster to Sydney’s St Andrew’s, including Britain’s biggest church bell, Great Paul, for St Paul’s Cathedral. Shiny new and refurbished bells are destined for churches in Truro, Paisley, Betws-y-Coed, Stow-on-the-Wold. Guide Lianne Brooks is a keen bellringer, ringing in four church towers each week. “One pull on a rope and I was hooked,” she laughs. As she demonstrates on the foundry’s bells, the metal vibrates with a low seismic hum. The bellfoundry’s museum has a £5 entry fee for adults, and tours are available from £20.

The 1950s-style heritage Great Central Railway (GCR) station, a couple of minutes away, includes another packed museum and a Brief Encounter-esque refreshment room. With a whistle and whoosh of steam, we’re off, past banks where badgers live, to 1940s-themed Quorn and Woodhouse station. There’s a Naafi-style cafe, with a blazing log fire and radio playing wartime songs, in an old air-raid shelter under the railway bridge.

More than 700 volunteers work on GCR, doing everything from shovelling coal to serving tea. “Dig for Victory” says a sign above trackside gardens, where pink-and-lime-green rhubarb unfurls in pale spring sunshine. Drivers are training new recruits. “If one of us old buggers suddenly collapses, we’d need someone to take over,” says chief fire inspector Ken Scriven, a long-term volunteer driver and former mainline fireman.

The Great Central Railway in Loughborough. Photograph: Simon Pocklington/Alamy

GCR has ambitious schemes, with planning permission granted in 2025, to link the railway through to Nottingham, one of Europe’s biggest heritage rail projects. The photogenic stations feature regularly in TV series, from The Crown to Happy Valley. Much of the recent Netflix drama Seven Dials takes place on board one of GCR’s steam trains. Rolling on towards Leicester, we cross the bullrush-framed Swithland Reservoir, where dining cars pause to watch swans glide over sunset waters (GCR day tickets £24/£13 for adults/kids).

I’m staying at Burleigh Court on Loughborough’s crocus-carpeted university campus on the edge of town (doubles from £75, room only). At night I can hear tawny owls hooting from nearby bluebell woods. The Sprint Bus links the campus with the town centre and railway station every 10 minutes. There’s art on the walls by Loughborough students, carpets made from recycled bottles, and a spa with a decent-sized pool. A £4.5m refurb in autumn 2024 introduced the stylish new Fifty Restaurant, where half the meals are plant-based, and a bar, named after Lionesses Carney and Scott, both Loughborough alumnae. Cocktails include sustainable drinks using leftover veg. I sip a chocolatey purple Beet the Waste while a fellow-drinker braves the Cauliflower Colada.

John’s House is Leicestershire’s only Michelin-starred restaurant

Leicestershire’s only Michelin-starred restaurant is John’s House, a beamed, brick building on a working farm in the village of Mountsorrel, 20 minutes from Loughborough on bus 127 the next day. “It’s a good job he can cook,” jokes John’s brother Tom Duffin; “he was bugger-all use on the farm.” Nearby, the sheep are loudly hungry. “I hear that noise in my nightmares,” grins a young farmworker, lugging a bag of feed. The farm’s hogget, with locally foraged hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, features in today’s lunch (three courses, £49). Fresh venison arrives from Bradgate Park. The evening’s tasting menu (from £100) includes fallow deer with walnut wine as well as Tom’s potatoes with smoked eel, crispy chicken skin and lovage. Stonehurst Farm itself has a nostalgic smell of baking and wet straw. Tom’s daughter, soil scientist Zoe, shows us round pens of rare curly-headed Leicester Longwool sheep and gingery Tamworth pigs, destined for summer hog roasts. Tiny orange piglets are climbing over a spotted sow. There are Easter lambs on the way and a new indoor play barn.

At drier times of year, it’s a pleasant two-mile walk from Mountsorrel along the river to the pub-rich village of Barrow upon Soar. Today, the Soar has spilled onto the floodplains, leaving a duck-dotted lake where the path should be. Luckily, it’s not much further by road, taking a path known as The Slabs. Stepping out of icy drizzle into the fire-warmed Blacksmith’s Arms feels miraculous. An elegant mushroom wellington with deeply savoury mash goes well with golden beers from Charnwood Brewery. Trains from Barrow-upon-Soar station are hourly and take only five minutes to get back to Loughborough. Outside the window are boats on willow-hemmed waterways and flocks of wintering geese.

This trip was provided by Discover Charnwood

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Abbigail Gomez boosts Granada Hills Kennedy girls’ basketball

During the early1980s, under coach Craig Raub and with the help of the DeCree sisters, Toya, Fonda and Diane, Granada Hills Kennedy was the best basketball program in the City Section and one of the best in Southern California. Toya, Fonda and Diane ended up playing for Arizona State, Oregon State and Texas A&M, respectively. Toya became a coach and the mother of the NBA Holiday boys, Justin, Jrue and Aaron.

Kennedy won a City Division II title in 2023, but the Golden Cougars are trying to return to relevancy this season having advanced to the City Section Division I final on Saturday against El Camino Real at 4 p.m. at Pasadena City College.

One of the standouts is Abbigail Gomez, a transfer from Highland who’s averaging 15 points. Her parents played football and soccer at San Fernando High. She also plays for Kennedy’s flag football team.

She made a game-clinching three in the fourth quarter on Saturday to help beat San Pedro. Afterward, she turned to the crowd and blew a kiss.

“That’s for my close friends and family,” she said.

She might be even more excited if the Golden Cougars can win a City title on Friday.

This is a daily look at the positive happenings in high school sports. To submit any news, please email eric.sondheimer@latimes.com.

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Jaylen Brown rejects Beverly Hills’ apology after event shutdown

Boston Celtics star Jaylen Brown is not satisfied with an apology he received from the city of Beverly Hills on Thursday, days after police shut down an event he was hosting in the city’s Trousdale Estates neighborhood.

The apology was not for shutting down the event. Instead, it was for including what the city called “inaccurate information” in its initial statement about the event.

Brown told ESPN’s Andscape he is considering legal action against the city after it “embarrassed my brand and my team” and then continued “to tell untruths in [its] apology statement.”

The promotional event for Brown’s performance brand, 741, was held last weekend at the home of Oakley founder Jim Jannard on the eve of the NBA All-Star Game at Intuit Dome. It was scheduled to include a panel discussion featuring National Basketball Players Assn. president Andre Iguodala followed by an after-party with around 200 invited guests.

In an X post after his event was stopped, Brown wrote, “300k down the drain.” On Thursday, in response to the city’s statement, Brown wrote on X: “You targeted me and my @741Performance event based on biased information then you give a half a— apology after the damage is already done.”

The Times reached out to the city of Beverly Hills on Friday for a response to Brown’s comments concerning the incident, including his mention of possible legal action. A representative referred The Times to the statement released the previous day.

The city’s first statement, issued Sunday, said that “an event permit had been applied for and denied by the City due to previous violations associated with events at the address” and “organizers still chose to proceed with inviting hundreds of guests knowing that it was not allowed to occur.”

On Thursday, the city issued a second release saying that upon further internal review it had determined that “no permit application was submitted nor denied for the event and the residence does not have any prior related violations on record.”

The release included a statement from city manager Nancy Hunt-Coffey, who apologized for the inaccurate information but asserted that the city still had reason to shut down the event.

“The City’s previous statement about the weekend event at the Trousdale home was inaccurate, and on behalf of the City, I would like to apologize to Jaylen Brown and the Jannard family,” Hunt-Coffey said.

“The City has a responsibility to its residents and neighborhoods to ensure adherence to established regulations for events held at private residences. These are designed to support the safety and welfare of neighbors and attendees. City staff observed circumstances that are believed to be City code violations and for that reason alone, the event was ended.”

Brown was far from satisfied with the apology.

“The city has now stated the event was shut down because officials believed codes were being violated,” he said in a statement released by Jalen Brown Enterprises Inc. “A private gathering cannot lawfully be terminated based on assumption alone, particularly when no official ever entered the residence to observe conditions or verify any alleged violation.

“This was a private, invitation-only gathering at a private home among friends and partners, not a public or commercial event requiring a permit. … No proof of any alleged violation was ever produced to the homeowner, our team, or legal counsel. Without observation, documentation or confirmed violations, enforcement action based on belief alone raises serious due-process concerns.

“Jalen Brown Enterprises Inc. supports lawful compliance and cooperative engagement with municipalities wherever we operate. However, this private residential gathering was interrupted without substantiated cause, resulting in significant financial and reputational harm.”

“We remain open to a constructive resolution with the city of Beverly Hills.”

Brown had more to say on the matter after the Celtics’ 121-110 win over the Golden State Warriors on Thursday night in San Francisco.

“This is All-Star Weekend at 7 p.m. I just wanted to enjoy myself. And I feel like that got taken away, and I got embarrassed to some degree,” said Brown, who was named an All-Star starter for the first time this year. He added, “I feel like that apology, you know, even in the statement they put out, they included some stuff that wasn’t true, even in an apology. So I don’t think that apology was acceptable.

“I lost a lot of money … and then people were making assumptions, like we didn’t go through the proper protocols. So that’s just all around a bad look, leaves a bad taste in my mouth. I’m extremely offended. My team is offended still. I’m not sure what the conclusion is going to be. All I know is that, that was some bulls—.”

Brown said he heard about the city’s most recent statement on his way to the game and that it fueled his third triple-double of the season (23 points, 15 rebounds, 13 assists).

“I wasn’t even thinking about the game,” said Brown, who will be back in Los Angeles when the Celtics play the Lakers on Sunday. “I was pissed. I was still pissed.”

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Beverly Hills police shut down Jaylen Brown’s brand event during NBA All-Star Weekend

NBA star Jaylen Brown had a public spat with the Beverly Hills Police Department Saturday night after police shut down a brand event he was hosting.

Brown, who signed a $285-million contract with the Celtics in 2023, was in Los Angeles for the National Basketball Assn.’s All-Star festivities.

He told ESPN that the event was hosted at Oakley founder Jim Jannard’s house. Brown is sponsored by Oakley.

The event took place in the Trousdale section of Beverly Hills and was shut down about 7 p.m. In a video posted on Brown’s Instagram account, the NBA star could be seen arguing with a BHPD officer who was shutting the party down.

“The owner didn’t say we needed a permit,” Brown told the officer in the video. Brown claimed the event was not a party, but rather a panel on culture.

“300k down the drain,” Brown wrote in a post on X after the incident, tagging the Beverly Hills Police Department.

“An event permit had been applied for and denied by the City due to previous violations associated with events at the address,” BHPD said in a statement.

“Despite the fact that the permit was denied, organizers still chose to proceed with inviting hundreds of guests knowing that it was not allowed to occur,” the statement continued.

Brown plays for the Boston Celtics, a historic rival of the Los Angeles Lakers, but added that he was surprised at his treatment by the city of Beverly Hills.

“I feel like we’re being targeted right now,” he said in a video posted to Instagram.



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Trump’s deportations are losing him the ‘Mexican Beverly Hills’

Carlos Aranibar is a former Downey public works commissioner and remains involved in local Democratic politics. But until a few weeks ago, the son of Bolivian and Mexican immigrants hadn’t joined any actions against the immigration raids that have overwhelmed Southern California.

Life always seemed to get in the way. Downey hadn’t been hit as hard as other cities in Southeast L.A. County, where elected officials and local leaders urged residents to resist and helped them organize. Besides, we’re talking about Downey, a city that advocates and detractors alike hyperbolically call the “Mexican Beverly Hills” for its middle-class Latino life and conservative streak.

Voters recalled a council member in 2023 for being too wokosa, and the council decided the next year to block the Pride flag from flying on city property. A few months later, Donald Trump received an 18.8% increase in voters compared to 2020 — part of a historic shift by Latino voters toward the Republican Party.

That’s now going up in flames. But it took a while for Aranibar to full-on join the anti-migra movement — and people like him are shaping up to be a real threat to President Trump and the GOP in the coming midterms and beyond.

On Jan. 27, Aranibar saw a Customs and Border Protection truck on the way home from work. That jolted Aranibar, an electrician with the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers’ Local 11, into action.

“It’s not something like that I was in a bubble and I was finally mad — I’ve been mad,” the 46-year-old said. “But seeing [immigration patrols] so close to my city, I thought ‘That’s not cool.’”

He Googled and called around to see how best to join others and resist. Someone eventually told him about a meeting that evening in a downtown Downey music venue. It was happening just a few days after Border Patrol agents shot and killed Minneapolis resident Alex Pretti after he tried to shield a fellow protester from pepper spray, and a few weeks after immigration agents tried to detain two Downey gardeners with legal status before residents hounded them away and recorded the encounter.

Aranibar joined more than 200 people standing shoulder to shoulder for the launch of a Downey ICE Watch group. They learned how to spot and track immigration agents and signed up for email updates. A box of whistles was passed around so people could alert their neighbors if la migra was around.

“Who here has been a member of a patrol?” an organizer asked from the stage.

Only a few people raised their hands.

“I saw familiar faces and new faces, energized — it was really nice,” Aranibar said afterward. “I got the sense that people in Downey have been fired up to do something, and now it was happening.”

A similarly unexpected political awakening seemed to be happening just down the street at Downey City Hall, on the other side of the political aisle.

Mayor Claudia Frometa set tongues wagging across town after video emerged of her whooping it up with other Latino Trump supporters the night he won his reelection bid. Activists since have demanded she speak out against the president’s deportation deluge, protesting in front of City Hall and speaking out during council meetings when they didn’t buy her rationale that local government officials couldn’t do much about federal actions.

“Mayor Frometa is not a good Californian right now,” councilmember Mario Trujillo told me before the Jan. 27 council meeting. During the previous meeting, Frometa cut off his mic and called for a recess after Trujillo challenged Frometa to talk to “her president” and stop what’s going on. “It’s not a time to deflect, it’s not a time to hedge — it’s a time to stand up. She’s giving us a bulls—t narrative.”

Downey Mayor Claudia Frometa listens to public testimony

Even Downey Mayor Claudia Frometa, a supporter of President Trump, has called out his immigation policies.

(Ronaldo Bolanos/Los Angeles Times)

That night, Frometa listened to critics like Trujillo slam her anew while wearing a wearied smile. When it was her turn to speak at the end of the night, she looked down at her desk as if reading from prepared remarks — but her voice and gesticulations felt like she was speaking from somewhere deeper.

“This issue [of deportations] which we have been seeing unfold and morph into something very ugly — it’s not about politics anymore,” Frometa said. “It’s about government actions not aligning with our Constitution, not aligning with our law and basic standards of fairness and humanity.”

As she repeatedly put on and removed her glasses, Frometa encouraged people to film immigration agents and noted the council had just approved extra funding for city-sponsored know-your-rights and legal aid workshops.

“This is beyond party affiliation,” the mayor concluded, “and we will stand together as a community.”

Suddenly, the so-called “Mexican Beverly Hills” was blasting Trump from the left and the right. Among Latinos, such a shift is blazing around the country like memes about Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl halftime show. Trump’s support among former voters has collapsed to the point that Florida state senator Ileana Garcia, co-founder of Latinas for Trump, told the New York Times that the president “will lose the midterms” because of his scorched-earth approach to immigrants.

Former Assembly member Hector de la Torre said he’s not surprised by what’s happening in a place like Downey.

“When it hits home like that, it’s not hypothetical anymore — it’s real,” he said. De La Torre was at the Downey ICE Watch meeting and works with Fromenta in his role as executive director of the Gateway Cities Council of Governments, which advocates for 27 cities stretching from Montebello to Long Beach to Cerritos and all the southeast L.A. cities.

“People are coming out the way they maybe didn’t in the past “ he continued. “It’s that realization that [raids] can even happen here.”

Mario Guerra is a longtime chaplain for the Downey police department and former mayor who remains influential in local politics — he helped the entire council win their elections. While he seemed skeptical of the people who attended the Downey ICE Watch — “How many of then were actual residents?” — he noted “frustration” among fellow Latino Republicans over Trump and his raids.

“I didn’t vote for masked men picking people up at random,” Guerra said before mentioning the migra encounter with the gardeners in January. “If that doesn’t weigh on your heart, then you’ve got some issues. All this will definitely weigh on the midterms.”

Even before Frometa’s short speech, I had a hint of what was to to come. Before the council meeting, I met with the termed-out mayor in her office.

The 51-year-old former Democrat is considered a rising GOP star as one of the few Republican Latino elected officials in Los Angeles and the first California Republican to head the nonpartisan National Assn. of Latino Elected and Appointed Officials. Her family moved to Downey from Juarez, Mexico when she was 12. Whites made up the majority of the suburban city back then, and it was most famous in those days as the land that birthed the Carpenters and the Space Shuttle.

Now, Downey is about 75% Latino, and four of its five council members are Latino.

So what did Frometa expect of Trump in his second term?

“I was expecting him to enforce our laws,” she replied. “To close our border so that we didn’t have hundreds of thousands coming in unchecked. I was expecting him to be tough on crime. But the way it’s being played out with that enforcement and the tactics is not what we voted for. No. No.”

Over our 45-minute talk, Frometa described Trump’s wanton deportation policy as “heartbreaking,” “racial profiling,” “problematic,” “devastating” and “not what America stands for.” The mayor said Republicans she knows feel “terrible” about it: “You cannot say you are pro-humanity and be OK with what’s happening.”

Asked if she was carrying a passport like many Latinos are — myself included — she said she was “almost” at that point.

Neighbors walk past a home with signs showing support for then president-elect Trump

A home in Downey shows support for Trump in 2024.

(Gina Ferazzi/Los Angeles Times)

Frometa defended her relative silence compared to other Latino elected officials over the matter.

“We live in a time that is so polarizing that people want their elected officials to come out fighting,” she said. “And I think much more can be accomplished through different means.”

Part of that is talking with other Southern California Republicans “at different levels within the party” about how best to tell the Trump administration to “change course and change fast,” although she declined to offer details or names of other GOP members involved.

I concluded our interview by asking if she would vote for Trump again if she had the chance.

“It’s a very hard — It’s a hard question to answer,” Frometa said with a sigh. “We want our communities to be treated fairly, and we want our communities to be treated humanely. Are they being treated that way right now? They’re not. And I’m not OK with that.”

So right now you don’t know?

“Mm-hmm.”

You better believe there’s a lot more right-of-center Latinos right now thinking the same.

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