hikes

Apple TV hikes its subscription fee in U.S., effective immediately

Apple TV, the streaming service known for series such as “Ted Lasso” and “Severance,” is raising its prices, effective immediately.

A monthly subscription will cost $14.99, up $2. The annual plan climbs by $20 to $119.99. This marks the tech giant’s fourth price bump in the last four years.

Other Apple bundle plans are seeing price increases as well. Apple One’s individual plan, which includes access to Apple Music, Apple Arcade, cloud storage and other features, is going up $2 to $21.95 per month.

The Cupertino-based tech giant does not offer an ad-tier, unlike some of its competitors that use ad-supported subscriptions as a lower-cost option for consumers.

Apple TV is the latest streamer to increase prices. The industry has sought to bolster bottom lines against the rising cost of programming.

Earlier this month, Peacock bumped its pricing, ahead of the new NBA and NFL season. The NBCUniversal-owned streaming service’s ad-tier will now cost $12.99 monthly, up from $10.99, while its most expansive plan will be $19.99 per month, up $3.

ESPN is also raising its streaming prices in September. The Disney-owned sports giant’s unlimited plan will rise from $29.99 to $31.99 a month. The annual cost is also rising — from $299.99 to $319.99.

Amazon Prime Video, Netflix and YouTube Premium also hiked prices earlier this year.

Apple TV+ launched in 2019 at $4.99 a month and was a low-cost perk for Apple users. The tech company still offers a free three-month trial to customers who purchase a new Apple device.

Over the last several years, Apple TV has sought to distinguish itself from competitors by offering premium, original series. It’s home to over 300 original movies and TV shows, including “Ted Lasso,” which returned for its fourth season earlier this month. Many of its shows have also attracted award show attention. Last year, Seth Rogen’s “The Studio” took home 13 Emmys. This year, the streamer’s shows “Widow’s Bay” and “Pluribus” are up for 19 and 18 awards, respectively.

Apple TV also recently secured the rights to Formula One races in the U.S, and offers Major League Baseball and Major League Soccer games.

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3 Los Angeles night hikes where you can watch the ‘blood moon’ eclipse

I didn’t want to feel disappointed, so I suggested we leave.

My friend Mejin countered that we should give the moon a little more time to show itself.

We’d hiked up to Five Points, where five trails meet in Griffith Park, with the goal of watching the moon rise over the nearby Los Angeles River and Elysian Valley.

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But the smog was thick, and the view was obscured. I already felt beat down by life. Now, the moon was a no-show? But as Mejin and I chatted with passersby about why we were standing around — no one seemed as hyped about the moon as we were — we spotted a flicker of golden light, low in the sky.

In this edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will recommend three night hikes around L.A. where you should have great views to watch the moon rise. Each trail offers an opportunity to still get outside despite this oppressive heat wave L.A. is experiencing this week. And this week’s full moon is extra special. On Thursday night, we’ll be able to witness a partial “blood moon” eclipse. Sounds spooky, and it isn’t even Halloween yet!

First, let’s talk through the time of sunset and the moon’s rise so you can plan your hike accordingly:

  • Thursday: Sunset at 7:25 p.m., moon rise at 7:16 p.m.
  • Friday: Sunset at 7:24 p.m., moon rise at 7:43 p.m.
  • Saturday: Sunset at 7:22 p.m., moon rise at 8:09 p.m.
  • Sunday: Sunset at 7:21 p.m., moon rise at 8:37 p.m.
The golden orange moon in a deep blue sky with a city skyline below.

A view of the super blue moon as seen from the Hollywood Hills on August 2023.

(Jason Armond / Los Angeles Times)

In terms of the partial “blood moon” eclipse, here’s what you need to know, thanks to a story by Times staff writer Fedor Zarkhin:

  • “The main stage of the eclipse will begin at 7:34 p.m., when the moon will fall under the core, or umbra, of Earth’s shadow. It will gradually turn a reddish, copper color as sunlight bends and filters through the atmosphere to fall on the otherwise-obscured part of the moon.”
  • “The eclipse will peak at 9:13 p.m. — when 96% of the moon’s surface will fall under the Earth’s shadow.”
  • “The most visible phase of the eclipse will end at 10:52 p.m.”
  • “The eclipse will end entirely just after midnight.”

If you’d like to look for your own full moon hike, rather than using the list below, your hiking spot will ideally include:

  • Clear views to the east. The moon generally rises in the northern hemisphere in the eastern sky (at around 102 degrees on Thursday in L.A., coordinates you can find using your cellphone’s compass).
  • Open after hours. Several of our local parks are only open from sunrise to sunset (outside of special events). Make sure to check the hours (if there are any) if you’re planning to take a night hike not listed below.
  • A wide dirt or paved path. None of the hikes below are terribly technical. That’s intentional, as the best night hikes are those along a wide fire road or paved path.
A gorgeous yellow white natural satellite, also known as the moon, shines over jagged brown mountains and houses below.

The moon rising in Thousand Oaks over Simi Peak to the east in October 2021 in the phase known as waxing gibbous.

(Al Seib / Los Angeles Times)

  • Friends. It’s best to hike in a group at night, in part because your chatter and laughter will alert any animals that you’re nearby.
  • Hiking poles. Although none of these trails are terribly technical, there’s still an inherent risk that comes with hiking. Consider bringing poles for the trip down, just to give yourself a bit more purchase on the sandy soil.
  • Extra water. We’re all slowly melting in this heat wave. Pack more water than you’d normally bring because we’re probably all a bit more dehydrated than usual this week!
The moon rises above the snow capped San Gabriel mountains and the Los Angeles skyline.

The moon rises above the snow-capped San Gabriel Mountains and the Los Angeles skyline as rain clouds begin to envelope the sky. The view is from Kenneth Hahn State Recreation Area in January 2021.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

As always, please remember to practice the seven Leave No Trace principles out on the trail, which include picking up after yourself (including orange peels) and not playing loud music. This better ensures we leave it better than we found it so everyone, including our local wildlife, can continue to enjoy our public lands.

OK, toss an extra water bottle in your pack and let’s take a look at these hikes!

Seven people sit on a concrete square covered in graffiti with expansive views of cities and mountains below and all around.

Hikers sit on the ledge of the Topanga Lookout, a concrete base of a fire lookout that is believed to have been torn down in the 1970s after smog made the lookout tower irrelevant.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Topanga Lookout

Distance: 2.1 miles
Elevation gained: About 350 feet
Difficulty: Easy end of moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Topanga
Accessible alternative: An L.A. County beach with accessible offerings

The 2.1-mile trek out and back to the Topanga Lookout takes hikers along the Topanga Ridge Motorway (called Topanga Tower Motorway on some maps) to an iconic spot in the Santa Monica Mountains where, on a clear day, you can see dozens of miles away.

Along the way, you’ll spot massive rock slabs that look like the forgotten frisbees of Zeus and his pals. And you’ll be treated to a lush habitat of native plants, including prickly phlox, chaparral yucca, black sage, hollyleaf cherry and Coulter’s Matilija poppy.

Three lights are seen along a dirt path through thick green plants and large crunchy boulders

Hikers light the path to the Topanga Lookout in the Santa Monica Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

To begin, you’ll park near the trailhead at Stunt and Saddle Peak roads. Be careful if crossing the road, as that large bumblebee you hear nearby is actually a sports car ripping along the road. From the trailhead, you’ll take Topanga Ridge Motorway for just over a mile northeast. You will pass an entry point for the Backbone Trail and a private road.

The trail starts as a wide paved path before transitioning after about a third of a mile to a dirt path of varying widths. Although it’s not overly technical — I chatted with a hiker walking it in slides — the trail has some uneven surfaces, so a headlamp or good flashlight is necessary when hiking it at night.

You will pass at least one spur trail — unofficial, user-generated — including one that’s steep and unstable. I overheard one youthful hiker tell their friends, “Dude, I almost died three times.” Not a ringing endorsement for that route. Plus, it didn’t sound like it offered any better views than you’ll get at the lookout spot.

As you approach the lookout, you’ll notice a steep path up to the concrete base. If you, instead, take the foot path to the right of the lookout, you’ll find stairs that allow you a much easier time getting to the top. You likely won’t find solitude — I interacted with a dozen hikers on a Wednesday night — but you will find incredible views of the Santa Monica Mountains and L.A. County. I was blown away.

A brightly lit dirt path with several plants, including sage and yucca, along the way with a deep blue sky above.

A headlamp lights the path ahead as the stars twinkle above near the Topanga Lookout in the Santa Monica Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I kept calling this spot the Topanga Overlook in my head, knowing that was wrong. It hadn’t clicked for me that this used to be the site of a fire lookout tower, hence the reason there’s a concrete structure here.

Believed to be built in 1934, the Topanga site was one of three fire lookout towers that the L.A. County Fire Department maintained in the Santa Monica Mountains with the other two located at Castro Peak and Triunfo Peak near the Ventura County line, according to a 1958 Times article. (For more history on fire lookouts in L.A. County, including how to hike to an existing one, you can read this article I wrote about Vetter Mountain.)

A bright moon in the night blue sky over a dark ridgeline and thousands of city lights.

An almost full moon rises over the Santa Monica Mountains and nearby cities.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The Forest Fire Lookout Assn. lists the reason for the Topanga Lookout’s demolition to be “unknown.” However, I think I figured out what happened.

Author Milt McAuley wrote in one of his Santa Monica Mountains hiking guidebooks that the lookout tower was removed in the 1970s but provided no further details. This was around the time that air quality was worsening in L.A. County.

The sunset as seen from the Topanga Lookout trail in the Santa Monica Mountains.

The sunset as seen from the Topanga Lookout trail in the Santa Monica Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

“The County Fire Department has seen the day coming when the lookout tower would be outmoded,” Deputy Fire Chief George Brunton said in a 1969 Times article. “Too much smog cuts the effectiveness of the lookout operators and as the area becomes populated we no longer feel the need for these fixed fire spotters.”

Brunton told The Times that the county was launching a pilot program (somewhat literally) to use helicopters as fire lookouts. Officials had already closed the Triunfo tower and another at Parker Mountain near Saugus. “If the pilot program proves successful, other towers will be shuttered, according to Brunton,” the story reads.

Today, the Topanga Lookout and the surrounding area is mostly public land. Please respect any “No Trespassing” signs you see, as there remains some private land nearby, and if able, bring a trash bag with you. Unfortunately, not all visitors practice Leave No Trace!

The view from the Seco View Trail in Debs Park.

The view from the Seco View Trail in Debs Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Seco View and Oak Grove trails to overlooks

Distance: 1.4 to 1.86 miles
Elevation gained: 600 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Northeast L.A.
Accessible alternative: L.A. River trail near the Taylor Yard bridge

This short jaunt through Ernest E. Debs Regional Park in the Montecito Hills offers great views at any time of day, with a bonus of great spots to sit at the top.

To begin, park at Hermon Park, or walk from the Highland Park Metro stop, as it is about a 0.7-mile walk to the trailhead from there.

From Hermon Park, head south, crossing Via Marisol from the crosswalk. From the crosswalk, you’ll walk west to the trailhead.

You will take the Seco View Trail southwest-ish for just over a quarter of a mile before turning left (or south) on Oak Grove Trail. You will follow Oak Grove Trail for about a quarter of a mile and then continue on Oak Grove Trail as it jags to the right (or west). You’ll quickly come to a wider dirt path. Turn left (or west).

A bench in golden light surrounded by dry grasses.

A green park bench at Debs Park.

(Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)

In just 300 feet, you’ll come to a paved path where you can turn left or right and reach benches either way. From here, the choice is yours to sit, rest and enjoy the moon rise.

On your way back, you have the option of following a wide-but-steep path down rather than returning on Oak Grove Trail.

A deep orange moon rises over hillsides dotted with lights from building.

The moon rises over Elysian Valley in late July.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. Five Points via Fern Canyon Trail

Distance: About 2.4 miles
Elevation gained: About 475 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Atwater Village
Accessible alternative: Griffith Park Observatory paved paths

This 2.4-mile journey will take you to Five Points (5-Points on some maps), where five trails meet and offer you the opportunity to extend your adventure (as long as you packed a map).

To begin, park at the Merry-Go-Round Lot 1 or nearby, keeping in mind that sometimes parking lots in the area close for setup and equipment for Shakespeare in the Park.

Exit the parking lot in the southeast corner and head to the Lower Beacon Trail, a wide flat dirt path parallel to the road. You’ll only be on this for about 200 feet.

Two hikers on a dirt path pass an opening in the greenery. A highway stretches out in the distance.

At Five Points in Griffith Park, where, on a clear day, you can see Santiago Peak, the highest peak in Orange County.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Soon, you will turn left (or southwest) onto the Fern Canyon Nature Trail.

You stay on this lush shady path for just under one-fifth of a mile, continuing southwest until you reach the Fern Canyon Trail, a wide dirt path.

You will follow Fern Canyon Trail as it takes you first west, then southeast before taking you eastward to Five Points.

If anyone in your party is thirsty, the Joe Klass Water Stop is nearby.

From Five Points, you can hang out until you spot the sturgeon moon, the name for this month’s full moon. And if it doesn’t come quickly, consider waiting.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

A tribute will honor the life and music of Swamini Alice Coltrane Turiyasangitananda.

A tribute will honor the life and music of Swamini Alice Coltrane Turiyasangitananda.

(Adam Corey Thomas / TreePeople)

1. Celebrate Alice Coltrane’s birthday in Beverly Hills
TreePeople and Living Earth will host a tribute to Alice Coltrane from 7 to 10 p.m. Thursday at TreePeople’s outdoor venue in Beverly Hills. Proceeds from ticket sales will go toward the musicians, money needed to restore the ashram Coltrane established that burned in the 2018 Woolsey fire and to TreePeople, a local nonprofit that has planted more than 3 million trees in our region. Tickets range from $33 to $66 plus a $3.21 processing fee. Purchase at livingearth.la.

2. Bird-watch in a cemetery in Altadena
Pasadena Humane will host a wildlife walk from 6:30 to 8 p.m. Friday through Mountain View Cemetery in Altadena. Guests will learn about local birds, squirrels and coyotes, and also the history of the graveyard. Tickets are $7.18. Register at eventbrite.com.

3. Locate lizards in Culver City
Herpetologist Earyn McGee will host a lizard art walk from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday at the Stoneview Nature Center (5950 Stoneview Drive) in Culver City. After taking a hike to observe lizards in their natural habitats, McGee will lead the group in an art activity at the nature center. Register at docs.google.com.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A large elk tromps through grasses near a cliff with the blue Pacific Ocean in the background.

A male tule elk frolics near the Tomales Point Trail, part of the Point Reyes National Seashore in Inverness.

(Josh Edelson / For The Times)

Point Reyes National Seashore is a stunningly beautiful 110-square-mile expanse about an hour north of San Francisco. It’s at the heart of a debate between environmentalists and ranchers over the best way to manage the landscape. Times staff writer Susanne Rust wrote that after a lawsuit brought by environmentalists over the future of ranching there, in 2025 “a settlement was announced with the National Park Service laying out how the park would function going forward. Natural landscapes and wildlife would take priority over agriculture. Eleven of 13 historic ranching families would leave and be made whole for their losses.” But the remaining two families want to continue the fight. And they’re apparently finding the ear of the high-ranking officials of the Trump administration.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

I’ve had a handful of moments on the trail when I felt like I was in real danger. The time I accidentally went off trail and ended up on an unstable hillside, dropping my pack in a river below. The time a bear slapped my tent. And because I’m a wimp, the moment when two entangled snakes emerged from the bushes and looked at me — before returning to their tryst. If you hike often enough, you will undoubtedly run into some kind of trouble. I’d love to hear from you. I write Between a Rock, an outdoors survival series that I hope helps educate other outdoors folks about how to respond in the face of emergencies. I’ve interviewed folks who’ve faced down mountain lions and bears, and underprepared strangers. You can submit your story via this form, and I will reach out if I’d like to hear more. I love these interviews because I always learn something too.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

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Japanese Rate Hikes Present a Hurdle for Corporate Bond Issuers

Accelerating yield hikes fuel capital repatriation, threatening to drive up USD debt issuance costs.

Japan’s rapidly rising interest rates are providing another significant variable for corporate treasurers with upcoming bond offerings or refinancings to monitor.

While the deluge of debt issued by so-called hyperscalers has yet to increase other companies’ borrowing costs, it’s critical for treasurers to track it alongside another recent development: rapidly rising Japanese interest rates.

The Japanese government and private investors hold $1.2 trillion of U.S. federal debt, more than any other country, according to the Congressional Research Service, and they are major investors in U.S. corporate bonds. Three years ago, the 10-year Japanese government bond rate was close to zero, as it had been for decades, prompting Japanese investors to seek yield abroad. The rate began increasing in 2022 and has nearly doubled over the past year, approaching 2.9% by mid-August.

Lotfi Karoui, a multi-asset credit strategist at PIMCO, noted in an Aug. 3 report the accelerating reduction in U.S. Treasury purchases by non-U.S. public and private sector entities. The best evidence of that trend is Japan, he wrote, where Bank of Japan (BoJ) data show government and private Japanese investors becoming net sellers of long-term U.S. debt securities in the 12 months leading up to May 31, following three years as net buyers.  

There is little evidence so far of a “sell America trade,” Karoui said, and demand for U.S. corporate credit remains strong. But issuers may have to pay more for it.

The U.S. federal government must fund a record deficit, and investment-grade corporate issuance in August, typically a slow month, is setting records.

“If Japanese investors are also selling U.S. securities into the market, that’s a lot of selling pressure that could push up U.S. rates,” said Amol Dhargalkar, senior managing director at Chatham Financial, which advises corporates on debt and hedging strategies. U.S. issuers, he added, could see wider spreads on top of a higher benchmark rate.

One indication of further retrenchment by Japanese investors, Dhargalkar said, would be more non-Japanese issuers pursuing yen offerings to take advantage of growing demand for yen-denominated securities. Alphabet and Berkshire Hathaway recently completed large yen offerings, and he anticipates more, especially from companies with Japanese operations that can avoid costly currency hedges.

Another wrinkle is the intervention starting in late July by the Japanese and U.S. governments to counter the yen’s dramatic weakening against the U.S. dollar by selling dollars and buying yen. Further yen appreciation will likely require more rate hikes by the BoJ, according to Aug. 5 commentary by Fitch Ratings, prompting even more yen repatriation.

“This is one of many new avenues that CFOs and their finance teams have to make sure they’re looking at as they consider capital markets transactions,” Dhargalkar said.

John Hintze is a contributing writer based in the U.S.

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3 kid-friendly L.A. hikes to decompress after going back to school

I spent my 10-year-old niece’s last week of summer freedom with her, jumping into and swimming in our family’s lake and overall being feral in nature.

She told me after our trip that she was dreading her return to school, communicating her Gen Alpha feelings via a simple broken heart emoji. It felt too soon for me too.

That energy is what inspired this week’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter. Below I outline three great hikes around Los Angeles that are kid-friendly and great options to decompress after your family’s first week back to school (including if you’re a kid-free household with a tired educator). I hope you find these trails as rejuvenating as I did!

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Before we dive in, a few quick reminders:

  • You will not have cellphone reception for at least two of these hikes. Download trail maps ahead of time on your hiking navigation app, and also download an offline map of your driving route on your phone’s GPS navigation app.
  • Pack extra water, especially if traveling to the San Gabriel Mountains, as mountain weather can be hard to predict, and it can be hotter than you anticipate.
  • Take your time on twisting mountain roads; use paved vehicle turnouts to let faster traffic pass you, and watch out for cyclists; turn on your headlights when entering Angeles National Forest, regardless of the time of day.
  • Let someone know where you’re going, including what time you’ll be back. Place a completed version of this form (or something like it) on your vehicle’s dashboard — just in case!
  • And practice Leave No Trace principles, including not feeding any wildlife, picking up after yourself (including toilet paper) and not playing any loud music, as it bothers grumpy hikers like me and also the wildlife (the latter being more important than the former).

OK, now that you’re prepared to be safe and good to nature, let’s talk about those hikes!

A rock juts out above a park with a winding dirt trail and beyond the trees, a dense city and then jagged mountains.

The view of the L.A. area and our local mountains from Bee Rock in Griffith Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Old Zoo — Bee Rock Loop (Griffith Park Explorer Segment 7)

Distance: 5 miles
Elevation gained: 930 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Atwater Village
Accessible alternative: Rio de Los Angeles Park loop

The Old Zoo — Bee Rock Loop is a 5-mile hike that takes you up to Bee Rock, an epic lookout point in Griffith Park. The route is part of Friends of Griffith Park’s Griffith Park Explorer, which organizes official trails into 15 hikeable segments (rather than you getting lost or ending your hike far from where you parked — not that I’ve ever experienced that).

I have passed Bee Rock at least a dozen times and each time told my hiking companion, “I really need to hike up there sometime!” I finally did last week, and I am already itching to return.

After leaving, I wanted to know how this local monolith got its name. I went to The Times’ archives, where I couldn’t find a precise answer.

A jagged rocky outcropping amid tree-covered hillsides.

Bee Rock as seen from the Bill Eckert Trail in Griffith Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

“Bee Rock acquired its name from the millions of bees which store their honey in its tiny caves which honeycomb it,” a March 1940 Times story read. Seems reasonable.

Retired ranger Bill Eckert told hikers per a 1985 story that Bee Rock got its name “because bees were attracted to the sweets at the old zoo’s refreshment stands and made their homes in the rock’s crevices.”

Eckert has a trail named after him, so I did feel inclined to believe his story.

As I searched for a clear answer, I felt better when I discovered that even experts like Gerry Hans, president of nonprofit Friends of Griffith Park, aren’t sure.

“There are theories and legends,” Hans wrote in a blog post in 2022. “The first is that the outcrop simply looks like a beehive. Another tale describes maintenance workers at the Old Zoo dumping spoiled soda syrup off the cliff, which lured swarms of bees. A third theory suggests that bees naturally take up residence in the holes and pocks on the cliff side overlooking Spring Canyon.”

Hans wrote that he had seen bees in the rock’s small caverns, but to do so, you must have good binoculars.

Armed with those facts and maybe some binocs, you can head out on the trail.

To begin your hike, you’ll park at Merry Go Round Lot One and head to the Lower Beacon Trail just past the southeast corner of the parking lot. Take good care in selecting where to start, as there are about five different paths you could take here.

You will head west on the Lower Beacon Trail, briefly walk southwest along the Fern Canyon Trail before taking the Upper Zoo Trail for much of the way. You’ll reach the Bee Rock Trail at 1 mile into your hike.

A dirt trail cuts through a tree and shrub-lined landscape with city buildings in the distance and farther away, mountains

Views from the Bee Rock Trail around golden hour in Griffith Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You will follow the Bee Rock trail northwest for a short jag before you come to what might feel like a dead end.

The Bee Rock Trail narrows and heads south. You will take a few switchbacks up, wondering how you suddenly became surrounded in tree canopy. Hopefully the sky is helicopter-free and you can hear the local chatter of acorn woodpeckers and California scrub jays.

You’ll arrive at a chain-link fence where you can take a narrow dirt path to the rocky outcropping atop Bee Rock. If hiking with children, it’d be good for the adults to go first, as there are a few spots where the fence has been cut, and the allure of venturing farther than one should out onto boulders is high.

The view is stunning, and on a Thursday evening, I had it all to myself as the sun lowered near the horizon. It was a clear day, and I could see a large swath of Glendale and nearby Mt. Thom and Tongva Peak in the Verdugos and farther away Josephine Peak, Strawberry Peak and several other summits in the San Gabriel Mountains.

From here, you can turn around and head back to your car, especially if the smaller hikers among you are tired, or continue onward to complete the loop. The rest of the trail is not challenging, as you’re either walking on a flat trail or headed downhill. And it’s generally not crowded. If you’re hiking with a teenager, the rest of the trail offers a quiet few miles to talk together about the school day.

A deep pool of cool clear water in a shady forest.

One of the pools along Soldier Creek.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Lewis Falls

Distance: About a mile out and back
Elevation gained: About 300 feet
Difficulty: Easy, but requires proper footwear
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: North of Azusa
Accessible alternative: West Fork National Scenic Bikeway

The 1-mile out-and-back trek to Lewis Falls offers hikers a gorgeous journey along Soldier Creek, lined with California bay laurels, oak trees and hulking old conifers. The trail runs mostly parallel to the creek until you reach its end, where you must cross the creek, rocks and logs to reach Lewis Falls.

You will start by finding parking, its own adventure, as there is no lot. Rather, you will need to find a spot along Highway 39 near the trailhead. I didn’t have any trouble on a weekday, but on a weekend, it might be more challenging. That is essentially the only real downside of this trail.

A hulking tree, perhaps a type of pine, grows near smaller oaks and other trees as the sun peeks through their branches.

A large old conifer provides shade along Soldier Creek.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You will hike slightly northeast for about half a mile before reaching the falls. Along the way, you’ll have ample opportunity to take a dip in Soldier Creek, as multiple pools remain, even this late in our summer.

If you find yourself saying, “Wow, this trail is really steep,” you are likely on the wrong path. You will spot multiple spur trails, likely created by either an impatient human or dexterous deer. You can identify them mostly by looking them over and realizing they offer a quicker, more dangerous option than the trail before you.

Two short waterfalls, one cascading down the creek and another running down the hillside.

Soldier Creek features several shorter waterfalls as well as nearby Lewis Falls.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Although it is generally called Lewis Falls by hikers, the cascade historically had a different name.

“Longtime San Gabriel Mountains visitors and old maps refer to Soldier Creek Falls as ‘Lewis Falls,’ in honor of forest ranger Anselmo Lewis, who once patrolled these parts,” former Times outdoors writer John McKinney wrote in a 1998 article.

Although this trail is short, it does require a bit of technical expertise but nothing too tricky. You will find yourself navigating boulders and, at one point, using a root to step down onto the rest of the trail. It requires just a little patience and looking ahead of yourself to determine the safest route.

I was greeted by small blue dragonflies as I hiked along the creek. Instead of racing back to my car, I lay down on a log and listened to the sounds of rushing water and chirping birds. Soldier Creek provides any hiker willing to slow down with an opportunity to reset, regardless of whether you have homework waiting for you at home.

And if you aren’t ready to go home, consider heading five miles north on Highway 39 to the Crystal Lake Recreation Area, where further adventure — and a snack at the Crystal Lake Cafe — awaits.

Large rocks can be seen at the top of a mountain.

Once you reach Mt. Hillyer, you’ll be greeted by large rocks that are fun to scramble along.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. Mt. Hillyer via Silver Moccasin Trail

Distance: 5.8-mile lollipop loop
Elevation gained: About 1,100 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: About 45 minutes northeast of La Cañada Flintridge
Accessible alternative: Paved paths through Chilao Campground

This 6-mile jaunt along the Silver Moccasin Trail, which is just over 50 miles when fully open, takes you through high desert and pine trees.

Shaped like a lollipop, the trailhead sits about half a mile northwest of the Chilao Visitor Center, which is typically open on the weekend. You will head north for a mile before turning left (or west) off the Silver Moccasin Trail.

You will follow Horse Flats Road to the Rosenita Saddle trailhead, where you’ll take the trail southwest to Mt. Hillyer.

A hillside covered in dense conifers intersecting with another mountain speckled with large boulders.

Views of the San Gabriel Mountains from the trail to Mt. Hillyer.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Keep an eye out for Jeffrey pines, which will have deeply furrowed bark and round prickly cones. Their bark smells like butterscotch or vanilla, which I always love pausing to sniff.

The trail also features Coulter pines that produce massive cones nicknamed widowmakers because of their size. The Coulter pine cones can weigh up to 11 pounds. If you’re in the area when it’s windy, please watch your head.

To reach Mt. Hillyer, you’ll follow a short spur trail about half a mile southwest from the Rosenita Saddle trailhead. Mt. Hillyer features several large boulders, perfect for kids to scramble and play on. It’ll also offer you sweeping views of the San Gabriel Mountains.

A person in a puffy hat and coat walks among tall pine trees and yellow-brown grasses.

A hiker takes the path to Mt. Hillyer in the winter in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You can make the trail a loop by continuing south until it jags back east, meeting back up with the paved road you previously took.

And for the ultimate weekend adventure, grab a first-come, first-served campsite at Chilao Campground, and then you can hike and check out the Chilao Visitor Center, which is open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday through November. As a bonus, there’s a short, flat nature trail at the east end of the nature center parking lot where you can typically find massive Coulter pine cones to inspect. A seasonal creek flows through this area too.

Regardless of which option you choose, I hope you make great memories in our local public lands.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

A sky full of stars and bands of light from the Milky Way.

The Milky Way is seen in the western night sky near Mt. Pinos in the Los Padres National Forest.

(Raul Roa / Los Angeles Times)

1. Ponder astrophysics in Pasadena
Caltech will host a stargazing lecture from 8 to 10 p.m. Friday at the Cahill Center for Astronomy and Astrophysics (1216 E. California Blvd. in Pasadena). Philosophy professor Charles “Chip” T. Sebens will lecture about basic questions that remain regarding atoms. A Q&A and then guided stargazing will follow. The event is free, and no registration is required. Learn more at events.caltech.edu.

2. Improve insect habitat near Altadena
The Invertebrate Club of Southern California needs volunteers from 8 to 11:30 a.m. Saturday at Eaton Canyon. Participants will yank invasive plants to help restore the canyon. Volunteers must be 14 years or older. Registration is required. Sign up at signupgenius.com.

3. Peek at sandpipers in Pacoima
The San Fernando Valley Audubon Society will host a bird walk from 8 to 10 a.m. Saturday. Guests will meet at the ranger station (10965 Dronfield Ave. in Pacoima) before heading out on a 1- to 3-mile walk through riparian areas, grassy lawns and unique rock formations. Birders can expect to see 30 to 50 species. Learn more at the group’s Instagram page.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

Several people in a wide flat river using tubes and also just swimming as white umbrellas line the short.

Johnson’s Beach, along the Russian River, is one of the most popular spots along the lower Russian River.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

The lower Russian River and the small communities along the watercourse in Sonoma County offer visitors every kind of adventure, whether you want to stay in a tent and simply float or you want a high-end outdoors experience. That’s what I gleaned from reading Times staff writer Christopher Reynolds’ article about how to get the most out of a visit to the Northern California sylvan paradise. “On summer weekends, thousands show up in Guerneville with kayaks, canoes, inner tubes — just about anything that will float, preferably with a cooler attached,” Reynolds writes. “Then they spend hours gliding downstream past scenery that might as well be a Northern California highlight reel: vineyards, redwood forests and eventually a beach scene full of driftwood and sea stacks.”

After finishing the piece, I immediately searched online for how far away L.A. is from Guerneville. It’s a long drive, but my colleague makes it sure feel worth it.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

Everyone should feel safe to recreate and work in outdoor spaces. To better ensure Deaf and Hard of Hearing folks feel supported wherever you recreate or volunteer, consider taking CorpsTHAT‘s upcoming “ASL for the Outdoors” virtual classes. Classes run from September to November and range from beginner to advanced. The fee is $250 per student. You can learn more, including how to register, at the organization’s website.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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I visited the Caribbean island home to Bad Bunny with waterfall hikes and some of the best coffee in the world

Collage of a man pointing at a pink building and a Bacardi mural, set against a beach scene.

PUERTO Rico is known for salsa, pina coladas and street parties.

But following Puerto Rican singer Bad Bunny’s performance at the Super Bowl half-time show this year, interest in the Caribbean island — which is a US territory — has surged.

Puerto Rico is known for salsa, pina coladas and street parties Credit: Getty
Puerto Rican singer Bad Bunny’s performance at the Super Bowl half-time show this year Credit: AP

And on my first visit, it didn’t take me long to realise what all the fuss was about.

Landing in capital San Juan, I made a beeline for Bad Bunny’s favourite neighbourhood, Santurce, a hip and arty spot littered with bright and enormous murals — the biggest of which stretches ten storeys high.

In the day, the streets here are peaceful, with quiet cafes spilling on to the pavement and a well-known elderly man selling flowers to passers-by.

Don’t let that fool you, though.

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The scene completely changes come Friday and Saturday nights, when locals cram into the many bars and party on the streets to live music.

It’s a great spot for a boogie and for those who love to let their hair down.

But if, like me, you’re not much of a party animal, you might prefer the region of Ciales, around 40 miles to the west, which offers sweeping, unspoilt countryside.

Instead of late nights stomping until sunrise, this area is all about early mornings and waterfall hikes.

The Santurce neighbourhood, in the capital San Juan, is a hip and arty spot littered with bright and enormous murals Credit: Supplied
The region of Ciales offers sweeping, unspoilt countryside and waterfalls

You’ll never struggle to find a decent coffee to fuel those dawn starts, either.

After all, Puerto Rico is famous for producing some of the best in the world.

You’ll be able to pick up a brew anywhere, with makeshift stalls perched on the side of the road and halfway up mountains.

I even found one suspended from a treehouse. Called FinCafe, it serves its brews with a twist.

How does a ginger and cinnamon flat white sound?

FinCafe also offers tours of its plantation across the road. Book with Sofrito Tours (sofritotourspr.com).

Heading even further west, out of the countryside and towards the coastline, I stumbled upon some of the most beautiful seaside spots, including Crash Boat Beach.

Once a military site (hence the name) this shore is now a gorgeous stretch of white sand bordering clear blue seas.

The arty Santurce district is full of cool murals Credit: Supplied
The Sun’s Alice Penwill at FinCafe Credit: Supplied

Be prepared to jump off the fishing pier if you visit. It’s a cherished tradition here.

If you are keen to have a go at surfing then make your way to Jobos Beach, a few miles along the coast from Crash Boat.

Those who are new to the sport can book a private or group lesson with local group MOKU (mokusurfshop.com).

The staff are incredibly patient.

They even pushed my board against the might of the ocean to try and help me catch a wave.

You’ll find that all the exertion will build up quite an appetite — and lunch at the surrounding coastal restaurants is the best way to refuel.

I became very partial to a Medalla Light beer or an Ocean Lab Mambo, which has a hint of passion fruit and is delightfully fresh after a day of swallowing salty seawater.

Beers can be paired with local snacks such as fried fish, crab fritters and plantain chips.

Streets with colorful houses at Old San Juan Credit: Supplied
Beach hopping tours with Marie Adventures start from $95 Credit: Getty

You can bet your bottom dollar that it will be some of the freshest grub you have tried, too.

Much of the food in Puerto Rico is sourced from the island.

Pa’l Monte, in the small town of Rincon, is the place to head for proper hearty meals.

Try traditional mofongo, which is fried and then mashed plantain, topped with prawns, meat or veggies.

If you are more of a cheese fan then Vaca Negra is where to head. You can even have a go at making your own cheese (see vacanegra.com).

After busy days of surfing, exploring and gobbling back delicious food, the comfy beds at El Oasis, a retreat in the hilltops of Aguada, offered great respite.

With nothing but the call of the coqui tree frogs to disturb the peace, this spot felt like living in pure paradise.

And I can’t help but feel a little jealous that Bad Bunny gets to call this home.

GO: PUERTO RICO

GETTING THERE: JetBlue flies from Heathrow to San Juan via New York from £390 each way. See jetblue.com.

STAYING THERE: Palacio Provincial in San Juan has rooms from $429 per night, room only (plus taxes).

See www.palacioprovincial.com.

Rooms at El Oasis cost from $135 per night, room only (plus taxes).

See eloasishotel.com.

Rooms at Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort cost from $399 per night.

See marriott.com.

OUT & ABOUT: San Juan & Santurce tour with Patria Tours cost from $51.

See patria-tours.com.

Beach hopping tours with Marie Adventures start from $95.

See mariexadventures.com.
MORE INFO: discoverpuertorico.com.

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Bush Breaks Campaign Vow, Says New Taxes Are Necessary : Budget: He declares revenue hikes, spending cuts are needed to keep the economy healthy. GOP conservatives are angered.

President Bush, formally abandoning the central pledge of his 1988 presidential campaign, declared Tuesday that preserving a healthy economy will require new taxes.

“It is clear to me that both the size of the deficit problem and the need for a package that can be enacted require” a series of measures including “tax revenue increases” as well as spending cuts, Bush said in a written statement issued after a breakfast meeting with congressional leaders of both parties.

He specifically mentioned the possibility of trimming “entitlement and mandatory” spending programs, a reference to Social Security, Medicare, Medicaid and other benefit programs. He did not specify the type of tax increase he had in mind.

With his statement, Bush abandoned his campaign pledge–”Read my lips, no new taxes”–and opened the door to a “grand compromise” with Congress that could narrow or even close the federal deficit. Richard G. Darman, Bush’s budget director, has been advocating such a compromise almost since the day Bush took office.

At the same time, however, Bush may have sparked a full-scale revolt among conservatives in his party, many of whom believe that higher taxes are far worse for the country than continued deficits. He may also have given up what many Republican strategists see as the party’s most important issue–low taxes.

Rep. Robert K. Dornan (R-Garaden Grove) said the President’s announcement that he would consider raising tax revenues set off a “firestorm” among conservative Republicans.

“I signed a letter today . . . that said, ‘Mr. President, we hope that (tax) rates are untouchable, that they are absolutely radioactive.’ ”

Rep. William E. Dannemeyer (R-Fullerton), one of the most fiscally conservative members of Congress, said, “The Democrat game plan all along in this Congress has been to break George Bush of his promise not to raise taxes and so to lay the foundation of a campaign against him by saying he broke his promise and he can’t be trusted.

“And frankly, I’d disappointed in Mr. Bush. I thought he was smarter than falling for that.”

Democratic leaders, by contrast, welcomed Bush’s new stance, which was prepared, word by word, during the breakfast meeting.

Administration and congressional negotiators, who have been meeting since May 9 to try to craft a deficit-reduction package acceptable to all parties, have discussed a host of potential tax increases.

Some proposals, such as increased “user fees” and hikes in tobacco and alcohol taxes, might be relatively easy for Bush to embrace. The Administration has already proposed roughly $20 billion in new user fees and other minor revenue increases.

But Tuesday’s statement was made necessary because Democratic leaders said that package was unacceptable. And while White House spokesman Marlin Fitzwater said it was up to the negotiators to decide what to do next, he pointedly refused to rule out broader tax increases.

Republicans, however, may find it difficult to accept Democratic demands to increase income taxes for the wealthiest Americans. “I can’t see Democrats agreeing unless there are (income tax) rate changes that ensure that (the final package) is not unfair to the poor and middle class,” said House Ways and Means Committee Chairman Dan Rostenkowski (D-Ill.).

Budget negotiators hope to work out a final package before Congress leaves Washington for its August recess.

Before Tuesday’s developments, said Senate Budget Committee Chairman Jim Sasser (D-Tenn.), the budget talks “were stalemated, going nowhere. The President broke an impasse.”

Bush himself told reporters at the White House Rose Garden Tuesday afternoon: “It is essential that these talks get moving and get moving faster. I want to see this economy grow. I want jobs. I want to see the deficit down.”

Democratic leaders had insisted when the talks began that they would not get involved in specific negotiations unless Bush publicly admitted that a tax increase would be needed.

At the time, the White House insisted that all issues were “on the table” and that Bush would impose “no preconditions” on the talks. But Democrats had insisted on a more explicit statement.

After Bush gave them what they had sought, Democratic leaders appeared solemn and reserved as they struggled to avoid seeming to take political advantage of Bush’s retreat.

“We hope this is not going to be the subject of a political campaign effort,” said House Speaker Thomas S. Foley (D-Wash.) “Someone who wants to complain about taxes being raised will have to complain against both parties.”

When the negotiations began, Democrats feared that Republicans would maneuver them into a corner–forcing them to call for a tax increase and then campaigning against them as “tax-and-spend” liberals.

Many Republican candidates for the Senate this fall already have been doing just that, much as Bush had done in 1988. In that year, Bush’s favorite line–”Read my lips, no new taxes”–formed the centerpiece of his standard stump speech.

Tuesday’s statement not only abandoned that pledge but also gave up on a central tenet of the Republican political philosophy for the past decade–that the deficit is caused by too much spending, not by too little revenue.

Fitzwater, explaining Bush’s decision, said that closing the deficit without new taxes would require spending cuts so large that they “would be unacceptable to all parties.”

The White House estimates that the federal deficit will be roughly $160 billion in fiscal 1991, which begins on Oct. 1. The Gramm-Rudman deficit reduction law would require about $100 billion in across-the-board spending cuts unless the President and Congress agree on a new budget plan.

To mollify conservatives, Bush aides spent much of the day circulating word that the White House was not agreeing to anything beyond the approximately $20 billion in new user fees and related taxes that Bush has already advocated.

“I’m not changing my mind at all” on taxes, Bush insisted during a 45-minute session with 15 Latino reporters from around the country.

Vice President Dan Quayle echoed the theme. “It should not be viewed as a change of policy,” he said in an interview in Los Angeles, where he was raising money for GOP candidates. “This is a deficit reduction summit, not a tax increase summit.”

Asked if he would now admit that Bush was breaking his campaign pledge against new taxes, Fitzwater responded with a laugh: “Are you crazy? . . . Everything we said was true then, and it’s true now. We feel he said the right thing then; he’s saying the right thing now.”

Democratic leaders reacted with some anger to the White House damage control efforts.

“The President’s statement is clear and unambiguous,” said Senate Majority Leader George J. Mitchell (D-Me.). “He said that it is clear to him that tax increases are required. This is a new statement by the President. Any attempt by White House officials or other Republicans to describe the statement otherwise are totally inconsistent with what occurred today.”

Even Fitzwater conceded as much as he listed a series of factors that had forced Bush to change his mind.

The most important was the weakening of the economy since Bush took office. Fitzwater noted that economic statistics continue to show interest rates higher and growth rates lower than the White House had hoped. Bush advisers and most Democratic economists hold deficits at least partly responsible, a point conservatives dispute.

Moreover, the mounting cost of the savings and loan bailout has swelled the deficit, Fitzwater said.

Not all members of Bush’s party, however, were willing to abandon their belief that new taxes are worse than continued deficits.

“Any tax rate increase now threatens recession,” Rep. C. Christopher Cox (R-Newport Beach) said in a statement. “Just the prospect of a tax increase is like a dagger pointed at the jugular vein of the American economy.”

Within hours of Bush’s statement, 90 Republican members of Congress signed a letter to Bush declaring “we were stunned by your announcement that you would be willing to accept tax revenue increases as a part of a budget summit package.”

Rep. Ron Packard (R-Carlsbad), who represents southern Orange County, said he was “a little bit disappointed and a little bit surprised, because I think it was in a way caving in on the issue.”

“A tax increase is unacceptable,” the GOP congressmen wrote. “We will not vote for a budget package that increases tax rates for the American people.”

Sen. Phil Gramm (R-Tex.), one of the authors of the Gramm-Rudman law, said that an agreement may not be worth having if it means a tax increase.

Times staff writers George Ramos and Robert W. Stewart in Washington and Cathleen Decker in Los Angeles contributed to this story.

GEORGE BUSH ON TAXES Oct. 12, 1987: “There are those who say we must balance the budget on the back of the workers–raise taxes again. . . . I am not going to raise taxes again.” Announcement of candidacy in Houston. Jan. 16, 1988: “I want to be the President who finally whips the budget into shape by holding the line on taxes.” Televised debate with five Republican rivals in Manchester, N.H. May 31, 1988: “I’m not going to propose a tax increase.” After meeting with campaign economic advisers at summer home in Kennebunkport, Me. June 14, 1988: “That’s the difference–as plain as day–between us. Tax cuts vs. tax hikes. I will not raise your taxes, period.” At Cincinnati rally, comparing his position with that of Democratic front-runner Michael S. Dukakis. June 24, 1988: “I’ve ruled them all out.” At a Cincinnati news conference, when asked if Bush included excise taxes or other “revenue enhancers” in his rejection of new taxes. July 9, 1988: “If you go to Yosemite Park with your trailer . . . you may have to pay a little more.” At Atlanta news conference, conceding that costs of some programs might rise for users but asserting that voters understood the difference between user fees and tax hikes. Aug. 18, 1988: “My opponent won’t rule out raising taxes, but I will, and the Congress will push me to raise taxes, and I’ll say no, and they’ll push again, and I’ll say to them ‘Read my lips: no new taxes.’ ” Acceptance speech, Republican National Convention, New Orleans. Jan. 31, 1990: “That budget brings federal spending under control. It meets the Gramm-Rudman target. It brings that deficit down further and balances the budget by 1993 with no new taxes.” State of the Union address, discussing budget he proposed to Congress. March 13, 1990: “You know my position and I have no intention of changing that position.” At White House news conference, when asked if he could promise no new taxes this year. May 24, 1990: “Things are complicated out there on this subject. . . . I’d like to do it exactly the way I propose. I’m now enough of a realist to realize that it might not be done exactly that way.” At White House news conference, when asked if he could fulfill his campaign promise. June 26, 1990: “It is clear to me that both the size of the deficit problem and the need for a package that can be enacted require . . . tax revenue increases.” Written statement after meeting with congressional leaders. PROJECTED IMPACT OF VARIOUS TAX INCREASES

Revenue Impac Proposal Next Year Fossil Fuels Tax fuels linked to global $23 warming Social Security Raise tax on benefits to 12 high earners Energy Impose 5% tax on wide range 14 of energy sources Gasoline Raise tax to 21 cents per 12 gallon from 9 cents Stock Market 0.5% tax on stock and bond 8 transactions Cigarettes, Raise 32 cents per pack and 10 Alcohol 25 cents per ounce Income Increase top income tax 4 rate to 33% Acid Rain Tax sources of air 3 pollution Estate Tax capital gains held 2 until death

t (in billions) Proposal Five Years Fossil Fuels $163 Social Security 100 Energy 80 Gasoline 59 Stock Market 58 Cigarettes, 51 Alcohol Income 42 Acid Rain 22 Estate 10

Source: Congressional Budget Office

PERSPECTIVE ON CHANGE–White House feared that Democrats would quit budget talks and blame Bush. A15

OTHER COVERAGE: A14

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3 shady morning hikes around L.A. where you can escape the heat

It’s a rare day when you cannot hike somewhere in Los Angeles.

But as I write this, L.A. County is under an extreme heat warning through Thursday evening. California recently saw its first storms of monsoon season, which I learned is the reason I found myself earlier this week whining about the humidity. We’ve now entered the period of summer when you need to plan your trips with heat in mind.

In this week’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I will highlight three hikes around L.A. where, if you go early, you can enjoy a quick, shady jaunt in nature. But first, let’s talk summer trail safety.

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How to hike safely in L.A. in summer

  • ⌚Avoid hiking in the hottest part of the day. This will vary by day and region, but I typically plan to leave the trail by 11 a.m. in summer, or hike in the evenings, around 6 p.m.
  • 🫗Pack more water than you normally need. Dehydration is a major reason that adventurers out on a day hike need to be rescued. It’s generally recommended to drink at least 1 quart every two hours (the amount in your typical Nalgene bottle). In summer, you will need to increase that. During summer, I also like to carry electrolyte powder and gummies.
  • 🌤️ Check the weather forecast of where you’re heading. If headed to Angeles National Forest, which includes the San Gabriel Mountains, take a look at the “Current Conditions” tab to find relevant weather information. The Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area has a similar page here. If hiking in an L.A. park, remember that, because the region has several microclimates, temperatures can vary widely across the county.
  • 😎 Wear sun protection. This includes a sun hoodie, wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses. I also recently started regularly carrying the hiking umbrella that I reviewed in last year’s Times Gift Guide.
  • 🥵 Know the signs of heat illness. Heat cramps can be the first signal from your body that something is amiss, usually presenting as painful spasms in your legs and/or abdomen. Next comes heat exhaustion. Symptoms include clammy skin, nausea, cramps, vomiting and headache. “Don’t ignore a headache when hiking in hot weather!” the American Hiking Society cautions. “This is serious stuff. Stop. Drink. Rest.”
  • 📲 Tell someone where you’re going. Complete this form (or something similar) and share it with a friend or family member. Place an additional copy on your vehicle’s dash if driving to the trailhead. The last thing you want is to be injured without anyone knowing where you are.

3 shady hikes around L.A.

As I’ve said many times, the best hike is where you are. The three hikes below all feature early-morning shade, but if they’re farther than you can drive or reach by transit, check out this guide I wrote about how to find shady hikes near you. I returned to it when writing this piece to remind myself of my own tips!

OK, let’s imagine the air blowing from your office fan or air conditioner is actually a light mountain breeze as we explore these three great hikes. Adventure awaits!

Tall trees with large light green fuzzy leaves cast shade over a trail with a little creek.

Sycamore trees cast shade over a trickling creek in Sullivan Canyon near Brentwood.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Sullivan Canyon Trail

Distance: 8.8 miles out and back
Elevation gained: 1,200 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Brentwood and the Pacific Palisades
Accessible alternative: Inspiration Loop Trail at Will Rogers State Historic Park

The Sullivan Canyon Trail is an 8.8-mile out-and-back trek along a seasonal creek, shaded by tall sycamores (easy to identify because of their mottled bark) and thick old coast live oaks. There are a few options to explore the canyon, including a loop, but that will include a more exposed route.

To start the most shaded option, you’ll walk past a green gate on Queensferry Road and head down a short, steep paved road. (The walk back up will be the hardest part of the entire hike.)

After about a fifth of a mile, you’ll head northwesterly onto the trail, a wide dirt and gravel road. I immediately felt like I’d been transported into a fairy-tale scene where someone in a carriage would come heading down the trail toward me. Instead, it was a mountain biker, which was less enchanting, but fine nonetheless.

Quickly, I noticed there’s a tree swing builder who loves this canyon. I spotted two swings, one of which I stopped and enjoyed because, why not?

I was surprised to see that the Sullivan Canyon creek, which is about 6.2 miles and starts (per this map) near San Vicente Mountain Park, was still flowing. You will cross the creek and its offshoots a few times, an easy enough task in the summer months when the water is lower.

As you navigate the creek, you’ll notice tadpoles swimming about. I was charmed when I noticed one of these larval amphibians use a leaf to camouflage its movements as it darted to and fro in a shallow pool. That’s one way to trick a bird looking for a snack!

A black-brown and yellowish white snake stretches across the dirt basking in the sun.

A gopher snake lounges on the trail in Sullivan Canyon.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I was admiring the chaparral growing up the canyon walls and the late-blooming wildflowers when I gasped. A few feet ahead, a snake sunned itself on the trail. I used iNaturalist, a citizen science app, to photograph the reptile. The app AI identification system informed me it was 82% sure this was a gopher snake. I laughed to myself, thinking about telling the rescuers after I was struck, “I was 18% sure it wasn’t a rattlesnake!” I passed without issue, but will note that both species are common sights in the canyon.

You do not have to hike the entire length of the trail to enjoy Sullivan Canyon. Because the first 2 miles in are fairly flat, this is a great hike for when you’d like to walk and talk with a friend. Or you could bring a child who needs to frolic, as there are multiple large old trees with thick branches low to the ground, tempting even an older millennial outdoors journalist to try to climb them.

The only downside to this hike is the parking situation. When I arrived, I quickly realized my first task would be to solve a bureaucratic riddle. There were signs noting parking was prohibited from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and then other signs with just arrows pointing in various directions.

Puzzled, I asked a driver in an REI shirt who was standing nearby, as I figured they were probably outdoorsy. They confirmed that amid the arrows, there were gaps where people are allowed to park. As I packed up my bag to head on the hike, feeling semi-confident that my car wouldn’t be towed, a mountain biker pulled up next to my car and asked where he could park. I laughed to myself, suddenly a newfound expert on where to park on Queensferry Road! (And if you want the history of how and when these parking restrictions went into place, you can read this 1998 Times story.)

But even with the parking headaches, Sullivan Canyon remains a treasure worth exploring for the shade, light breeze and beauty it offers to early-morning hikers.

Two photos: Left, a rocky creek with trees in the distance; right, Green hills lead down to a small valley.

Left, Millard Creek runs alongside this hike to the Dawn Mine; and right, a view of the San Gabriel Valley and beyond from the Millard Canyon area.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Dawn Mine Trail

Distance: About 6 miles out and back
Elevation gained: About 1,550 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed: Yes
Nearest to: Altadena
Accessible alternative: Gabrielino Trail near NASA’s JPL

This 6-mile jaunt to the Dawn Mine offers hikers a shade-lined path along Millard Creek where it’s common to spot California tree frogs and newts, along with a host of native shrubs and trees.

To begin your hike, you can either parallel park near Nuccio’s Nurseries, taking care to obey all parking signage, or if those spots are all taken, park nearby and order a rideshare to drop you at the trailhead. I had cell reception with Verizon here, so it should be possible to order a ride back to your vehicle.

A creek speckled with rocks of varying sizes with banks dotted with tall alder trees.

Millard Creek in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

From here, you have two options to reach the Dawn Mine trailhead.

1. Follow Chaney Trail road for a mile until you reach Mt. Lowe Motorway (called Mt. Lowe Road on some maps), where you’ll turn east. Chaney Trail road offers limited shade, so start early.

2. Walk about half a third of a mile north from Nuccio’s, and then near a bend in the road you’ll take the Chaney Trail, a winding dirt path north, for about half a mile where it’ll meet up with Mt. Lowe Motorway. (This option is also about a mile, although distance will depend on where you park.)

Headed northeast-ish on Mt. Lowe Motorway, you will walk just over a third of a mile before heading off the pavement and onto a trail. You’ll reach Millard Creek in about two-thirds of a mile.

You’ll head east and northeast until reaching Dawn Mine, which former Times outdoors writer John McKinney noted was a literal gold mine from 1895 through the 1950s. These days, it’s a figurative gold mine for local history buffs or those who want to take a cool selfie.

A clear bluish creek rushes over rocks and boulders surrounded by thin, tall, light brown trees.

Millard Creek in the San Gabriel Mountains near Altadena, as seen in January.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

It is not safe to enter the mine, but you can enjoy the frigid breeze coming out of its mouth. Mountain air-conditioning!

I’d advise turning around from here. You might notice on your map that it’s possible to make a loop, and although that route offers great views, it’s exposed and not ideal on the hotter days of summer.

A small pond reflects the tall green trees on its shore, which also features thick grasses and plants.

Franklin Canyon Reservoir north of Beverly Hills.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. Franklin Canyon Park loop

Distance: 1.2-mile loop with options to extend (see map)
Elevation gained: About 200 feet
Difficulty: Easier end of moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Nearest: The hillsides between Beverly Hills and Studio City
Accessible alternative: Franklin Canyon Drive loop

Franklin Canyon Park is 605 acres of public land north of Beverly Hills that features chaparral and oak woodlands. The park has three bodies of water: the 3-acre Franklin Canyon Lake, Heavenly Pond and Wild Pond.

To reach the park, you’ll enter through either the northern or southern gate. (The northern gate was closed for months while the L.A. Department of Water and Power completed a project.)

Take good care as you drive into the park, as there are a few tight corners with low visibility.

Upon arrival, I’d recommend taking a 1.2-mile loop, which I’ve mapped out here, that will take you past the lake and ponds and up into the park’s hillsides. Whenever I’ve visited the park, I’ve found it to be cooler than the nearby neighborhoods, thanks to its water and abundant shade provided by oaks, sumac and other trees.

To begin your hike, you’ll park in the large dirt main parking lot. Head south on Franklin Canyon Drive, where you’ll quickly find a trail entrance with wooden steps that lead down near Franklin Canyon Reservoir. I hope you’re greeted by the sound of quacking waterfowl like I was!

Continue in the southerly direction, appreciating the gnarled coast live oaks and sound of shy red-eared sliders plopping off their logs into the water. This short trail will lead you back up to the road where you’ll walk south for just a bit before turning onto the gentle path that loops around Heavenly Pond. This is an especially good spot to find turtles and ducks.

A turtle rests on a hunk of wood in the Heavenly Pond in Franklin Canyon Park.

A turtle rests on a hunk of wood in the Heavenly Pond in Franklin Canyon Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

From Heavenly Pond, continue south on the paved road, following it past the private residence to the wooden steps at the reservoir’s southern end. Take these stairs down onto Chernoff Trail. You’ll quickly spot toyon and pine trees, among other natural delights. Soon, you’ll bear right (or northeast) to take stairs onto the road. Cross the road and continue northeast onto the trail. Take the next set of steps up past thick bunches of black sage.

Continue north on Blinderman Trail, following as it bears east before it loops back around west. Along the way, you’ll pass well-maintained benches and bridges. If it’s already sunny out, please consider shortening your jaunt up these steeper trails in Franklin Canyon and consider repeating your excursion around the ponds.

At any point you need to refill your water bottle, there are water fountains near the Eugene and Michael Rosenfeld Auditorium, which is just southeast of the main lot.

***

A person in a neon yellow shirt and big dumb hat throws their legs into the air as a swing lifts them higher in the forest.

Wild writer Jaclyn Cosgrove takes a turn on a tree swing attached to a sturdy coast live oak branch in Sullivan Canyon.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

We are so lucky to have an abundance of public land tucked throughout L.A. I hope you find blissful shade, trickling streams and the experience you need out there!

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

Hikers talking and connecting on a previous Better Future Club hike.

Hikers talking and connecting on a previous Better Future Club hike.

(Amanda Sayeg)

1. Make new friends on a hike in L.A.
The Better Future Club will host a short hike at 9:30 a.m. Saturday in Griffith Park. Participants will gather at the Trails, a cafe in the park, before heading out. Register at luma.com.

2. Chill out with the mountain chickadees near L.A.
The Antelope Valley Audubon Society will host a birding field trip from 8 a.m. to noon Saturday at Chilao Visitor Center in Angeles National Forest. All experience levels welcome. Society members will bring extra binoculars, but guests are encouraged to bring their own if they have a pair. Register at eventbrite.com.

3. Saunter down Santiago Creek in Orange
The Santiago Creek Greenway Alliance will host a five-mile community bike ride from 1 to 3 p.m. Sunday in Orange. Riders will meet at the Sports Center at Grijalva Park parking lot (368 N. Prospect in Orange). The group will take the Santiago Creek Bike Trail to the Santiago Park ECO Center in Santa Ana. Register at eventbrite.com.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A lifeguard stands with a red floatation device on the side of a large light turquoise swimming pool dotted with guests.

The Hansen Dam Aquatic Center in Lake View Terrace is said to be the largest pool in America. The center features public swimming, its own beach, pedal boats, a large water slide and fishing.

(Kayla Bartkowski / Los Angeles Times)

I personally love “Gray May” and “June Gloom,” the times when Los Angeles is overcast for several days in late spring and early summer. It makes choosing a hike easy, as I don’t need to exclude every single exposed path or fire road from the possibilities of where I will go on a particular day. We are now entering what I’ve laughingly dubbed, mostly in my head, “You Fry July!” Although the L.A. temperatures are nothing like what my friends and family back in Oklahoma are experiencing, our dry heat is getting hotter as we move more fully into summer. That’s why, instead of hiking, consider taking a dip at one of these 24 affordable L.A. pools. Or take a dip after a morning hike. Either way, stay cool, stay hydrated and stay safe, friends!

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

Two weeks ago, I wrote about great first-come, first-served campgrounds near L.A. where you can often find a spot, even when arriving last minute. A reader later commented on my story that Google Maps had taken them on a harrowing back road to reach Horse Flat Campground. My heart dropped, as I worried I had sent a Wild reader into danger. I quickly checked which route Google Maps was recommending — and I got big mad. Google Maps was showing that Angeles Crest Highway was closed just east of Red Box Picnic Area, which was inaccurate. I contacted Google (crickets from them) and the California Department of Transportation, who quickly corrected the route to accurately portray where the highway is actually closed. The best way to know about closures along Angeles Crest Highway is to check the California Department of Transportation’s QuickMap tool. Please be safe out there!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

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Five best holiday bargains for Christmas to beat the price hikes

IT MAY be sizzling at the moment – but set your sights on winter breaks to bag some real value.

Now is the best time to book a Christmas getaway, says Sophie Swietochowski, with prices as low as they go for the next few weeks. You can try out these top deals . . . 

WINTER SUN IN EGYPT

You’ll be waited on hand and foot if you head to Hurghada this Christmas Credit: Getty

THOSE wanting to spend Christmas on the beach in luxury lodgings should set their sights on Hurghada.

It’s around a five-hour flight, temperatures will reach 23C and you’ll be waited on hand and foot.

You can score a cracking deal with easyJet if you book before July 21, using the code FOOTBALL26.

There’s £100 off a seven-night B&B getaway to the 4H Cook’s Club El Gouna with a new price from £876pp based on two sharing and including flights from Bristol on December 19.

TIME TO GO

I went to the new historical live-action theme park in the UK with NO rides


WAT-ER RUSH

The UK’s best leisure centres that are more like waterparks

See easyjet.com/en/holidays.

SANTA IN LAPLAND

The Suomo resort will take your breath away with its thick woodland coated in fresh snow, Credit: supplied

IF bucket list is what you’re after, that’s what you’ll get when you whisk the kids off to Finnish Lapland.

Who wouldn’t dream of seeing Santa Claus on Christmas Day?

The Suomo resort will take your breath away, with its thick woodland coated in fresh snow, and cosy wooden lodges where you can hunker down with some wine or a board game around a roaring fireplace.

Along with feeding the reindeer, little ones will get to join the elves filtering through letters and go husky sledding or tobogganing, all while wrapped in their snowsuit and boots — free for all guests.

The four-night package costs from £1,890pp based on a family of four sharing and includes all of the experiences mentioned above, plus flights from Stansted on December 23.

You’ll stay in the Scandi-decorated Arctic Circle Hotel with all meals included and a meeting and gift from Santa.

See canterburytravel.com.

MICKEY IN PARIS

The price includes four days’ worth of park tickets for the whole family Credit: Alamy

DISNEY doesn’t come cheap, no matter what time of year you visit, but if you book now you can bag seriously good deals over Christmas.

Disney Enchanted Christmas brings the magic from November 7 to January 6 and this season, for the first time, the joy will spread beyond Disneyland Park as you celebrate in Arendelle style in World Of Frozen.

Queen Anna, Elsa ,Olaf and friends, will welcome guests into the Kingdom of Arendelle at Disney Adventure World, plus there are carol singalongs and character meet-and-greets.

Three nights’ room-only in Disney’s Santa Fe hotel is from £745.96pp based on a family of four sharing, flying from Heathrow on December 23.

This price includes four days’ worth of park tickets for the whole family.

See disneyholidays.co.uk.

AMSTERDAM MARKETS

The Christmas markets will be in full force in the lead-up to the big day Credit: Getty

SOME cities simply come alive in winter ­— and Amsterdam is undoubtedly one of those.

The frosted canals of the Netherlands city are lit up by old-fashioned lampposts and pokey cafes serve up piping- hot mugs of Choco- mel spiked with rum to give it some extra warmth.

The Christmas markets will be in full force in the lead-up to the big day.

But these are not your stereotypical tat stalls — everything here if authentically Dutch.

Don’t forget to sample the oliebollen — warm doughballs dunked in powdery icing sugar.

Check in at the 4H Leonardo Museumhotel Amsterdam City Centre which is slap-bang in the heart of the action.

Four nights’ room-only costs from £485pp based on two people sharing and including flights from Liverpool on December 23.

See onthebeach.co.uk.

SKIING IN ANDORRA

These pistes are often praised for their world-class ski schools that exceed many others in Europe Credit: Getty

Few scenes are more spectacular at Christmas time than those from the top of a snow-drenched ski slope, the sun reflecting off the mountain-scape.

Crystal Ski has some great deals at the moment, including this one to Andorra. The resort of Grandvalira is perfect for both pros and beginners, with one of the largest ski domains in Europe, home to a whopping 215 km of interconnected slopes, meaning there’s great variety.

These pistes are often praised for their world-class ski schools that exceed many others in Europe, plus it’s a little more affordable than the Alps.

Seven nights’ half board at the 4* Residence Pas de la Casa Alaska is from £825pp based on two people sharing including flights from Gatwick on December 20.

See crystalski.co.uk.

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Japan hikes tourist visa fees and becomes one of the most expensive countries to visit

For the first time in 48 years, Japan has changed its visa fee, rising by a staggering five times for foreign nationals, who will need to pay an extra £55 when visiting

Japan has dramatically hiked its visa fees for tourists, with the cost of entry now a whopping five times higher.

From Wednesday, 1 July, many foreign nationals travelling to the country home to Mount Fuji will be required to pay 15,000 yen (£69.99) for a single-entry visa, a sharp rise from the previous 3,000 yen (£14). Meanwhile, multi-entry visas will now set travellers back 30,000 yen (£139.98), jumping up from 6,000 yen (£28).

This represents a staggering fivefold increase, meaning visitors will fork out an additional £55.99 for a single trip, or £111.98 for a multi-entry visa. Remarkably, this marks the first time Japan has raised its visa fees since 1978 — a full 48 years ago.

Foreign Minister Toshimitsu Motegi said the changes were made to “reflect inflation and exchange rate fluctuations”. He added: “We do not anticipate that it will have an immediate impact on inbound tourism.”

The updated visa fees will apply to all applications submitted on or after 1 July, 2026, as the nation continues to experience a surge in visitor numbers. Last year alone, Japan welcomed a remarkable 42.7 million international tourists, with iconic destinations such as Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka remaining amongst the most sought-after, reports the Express.

The good news for Brits is that Japan has reciprocal visa exemption arrangements with 74 countries and regions, allowing citizens to enter for short-term stays without a visa. UK passport can stay for 90 days visa-free.

Japan’s new visa charge places it among the pricier destinations to enter globally. Other nations with steep tourist visa costs include the UK, where a standard visitor visa costs £135, and Ghana, where travellers from non-African nations pay $260.

Some countries levy per-night charges, with Bhutan ranking among the most expensive. A daily sustainable development levy of $100 is imposed per adult.

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) advises that Brits travelling to Japan must make sure their passport remains valid for the duration of their visit. The FCDO states on its travel advice page: “No additional period of validity is required. You need a blank page for your visa stamp.”

In guidance on obtaining a visit, the Foreign Office adds: “You can get a visa on arrival in Japan for tourism or business for up to 90 days. You do not need to apply before you travel. If you need a multiple-entry visa, you must ask the immigration officials when you arrive. If you want to stay longer, you can apply at your nearest immigration office for an extension for another 90 days. Your passport must be valid for the period of the extension.”

The FCDO adds: “For long-term stays or to work or study, you must meet the Japanese government’s entry requirements. Check which type of visa you need. It is illegal to work in Japan without the correct visa, no matter how informal or temporary the work.

“If you overstay your permission to remain in Japan, you risk arrest, detention and a heavy fine. For residency information, see the Japanese Immigration Services Agency website and read about living in Japan.”

While there is no advice against travelling to Japan, the FCDO has warned about “global travel impacts due to escalation in the Middle East.” They stated: “Escalation in the Middle East has caused widespread travel disruption, including airspace closures, delayed and cancelled flights.

“Your travel plans may be affected, even if your destination is not in the Middle East. Before you travel:

  • Check travel advice for any countries or territories you are transiting through
  • Check for the latest updates from your airline or tour operator
  • Review your travel insurance policy for coverage
  • Monitor local and international media for the latest information and sign up for travel advice email alerts.”

For more information on travel to Japan, visit the Foreign Office travel advice website.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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These three hikes near Los Angeles feature rivers and waterfalls

I was alone in the forest in my favorite place for the first time in years, so I did the only logical next right thing. I lay down.

There I was, sprawled next to Millard Canyon Falls, listening as the water roaring down the cliff and cool air whooshed past my face. I gained a new perspective when I gazed at an upside-down waterfall. What’s the point of hiking if we don’t play around?

In today’s edition of The Wild, our weekly outdoors newsletter, I provide you with three great hikes where rivers and waterfalls are still flowing. It’s essential information as we head into summer and temperatures start to rise.

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If you were to force me to choose my favorite hike, I would stubbornly refuse to pick just one, but my list would include these three.

That’s why I really want to urge you, my dear Wild reader, to treat these places with the reverence they deserve. That includes:

  • Refreshing your memory on the seven “Leave No Trace” principles.
  • Packing a small trash bag in which you can store empty food wrappers, toilet paper and garbage you spot along the way.
  • Observing wildlife from a distance, including California newts, which you shouldn’t pick up because it’s rude and, more important, because they can secrete a neurotoxin through their skin that can be lethal to humans.
  • Remember to practice good hiking etiquette.

OK, let’s talk about where your next favorite hike will be!

A cascade of water gushes down into a narrow rocky canyon

Millard Canyon Falls in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Millard Canyon Falls

Distance: 3.3 to 4.3 miles (see below)
Elevation gained: About 900 to 1,100 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: Paved segment of Gabrielino Trail from Windsor Boulevard

This 3.3- to 4.3-mile hike to Millard Canyon Falls will take you through lush hillsides and beneath the shade of coast live oaks and bigleaf maples as you walk alongside, and sometimes through, Millard Creek. Your journey ends at Millard Canyon Falls, a gorgeous 50(ish)-foot waterfall that gushes past massive boulders perched at the top of the cascade.

This hike is usually much shorter (about 1.5 miles), but a road closure in place since the Eaton fire lengthened it. I will explain more about the closure later. It is important to note, though, that Chaney Trail is the name of the roadway and an actual trail, both of which you’ll take on this hike.

To begin your hike, you can either parallel park near Nuccio’s Nurseries, taking care to obey all parking signage, or if those spots are all taken, park nearby and order a rideshare to drop you at the trailhead. I had cell reception with Verizon here, so it should be possible to order a ride back to your vehicle.

A creek speckled with rocks of varying sizes with banks dotted with tall alder trees.

Millard Creek in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

From here, you have two options for reaching the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead.

1. Follow Chaney Trail road for about 1.66 miles to the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead. This route will be exposed, so you’ll need to start early if you choose this option.

2. Walk about half a third of a mile north from Nuccio’s, and then, near a bend in the road, you’ll take the Chaney Trail, a winding dirt path that I was delighted to find is in great shape. (Shout out to Restoration Legacy Crew, a volunteer trail maintenance group, for its amazing work in the Millard Canyon area!)

That trail is a bit overgrown in a few spots, so you’ll want to wear pants (or take the road). Additionally, make sure to lightly stomp before heading into overgrown areas, as this helps alert any snakes snoozing in the shade of your presence.

The blue sky peeks through an almost heart-shaped hole in an image with a point of view from the bottom of a canyon.

The view from the ground looking up at Millard Canyon Falls.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You’ll take Chaney Trail for about half a mile, pausing to catch your breath and take in the increasingly great views of the San Gabriel Valley. You will next cross over Mt. Lowe Motorway to take the Sunset Ridge Trail down. (See map for greater detail.)

You will boogie down a few switchbacks for 0.7 miles, enjoying shade provided by bay laurels and sumac trees, listening to the sweet songs of canyon wrens and spotted towhees. (That’s who was singing to me, anyway!)

You will reach the Millard Canyon campground, which is closed for overnight camping but does feature a few nice picnic tables shaded by massive coast live oaks. With the creek flowing nearby, I wouldn’t blame you if you stopped and had a little snack here.

Millard Campground in Angeles National Forest. It is closed because of damage from the Eaton fire.

Millard Campground in Angeles National Forest. It is closed because of damage from the Eaton fire.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

That said, you have finally made it to the Millard Canyon Falls trailhead! Just northwest of the campground, you’ll find a little arrow pointing you northward onto the trail. From here, you will gain minimal elevation, and can actually just frolic. It is about half a mile to the waterfall.

As I mentioned, this trail is usually shorter and easier to access, as there’s a large parking lot near the trailhead and more parking along the roadway.

The roadway Chaney Trail was slated to reopen at the end of April. I frequently checked Los Angeles County Public Works’ road closure website, as I had planned to write about Millard Canyon once the road reopened. But when I checked the website, I saw that the reopening had been moved to the end of August. Huh?

I asked the public information officers at county Public Works about it and was told: “We are currently coordinating with our on-call emergency contractor to complete guardrail repairs on Chaney Trail, just north of the gate. Construction is anticipated to begin in July and be completed by the end of August, weather and field conditions permitting.”

Clockwise from top left: a bright pink prickly phlox, yellow golden yarrow, white cliff-aster with a bee and a red larkspur.

Clockwise from top left: prickly phlox, golden yarrow, cliff aster and a type of larkspur. Center: A little bird on a dried out plant.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I passed a shiny new guardrail just north of the gate when I was hiking there earlier this week. I asked the agency whether there was some other guard rail missing. No, my friends. “The community raised concerns about the roadway narrowing included in this project, and we will be reconstructing the guardrail to address those concerns,” a spokesperson told me via email.

And now ends the saga of the Chaney Trail guardrail.

As for Millard Canyon, I will admit, it quite possibly is my favorite frontcountry natural areas. I was reminded of this fact when I visited this week. Although the road closure adds some steep mileage to reach the canyon, it’s worth it to me. I will be back. I hope to see you there!

The Fish Canyon Narrows near Castaic.

The Fish Canyon Narrows near Castaic.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Fish Canyon to Fish Canyon Narrows

Distance: About 5.5 miles
Elevation gained: About 400 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: San Francisquito Creek Trail

To reach the Fish Canyon Narrows, you will take the Fish Canyon Trail (called Forest Route 6N32 or the Warm Springs Fish Canyon Truck Trail on some maps) on a 5.5(ish)-mile out-and-back journey. You will ascend into narrowing walls of sandstone, granite and conglomerate. A healthy stream flows throughout the canyon, giving you ample opportunity to cool off or have a picnic in a naturally occurring sound bath (which, when you’re lucky, will include a tree frog).

A quick note: This is the most rugged (read: least curated) of the three adventures mentioned in this list. There is no trail signage, and you’re in a less popular corner of Angeles National Forest. You might be entirely alone, especially if you hike this on a weekday. You should plan accordingly. Or skip it if I’ve already freaked you out. (I do this out of love!)

To begin, you’ll park on the road’s shoulder, and head east through a gate. Follow the roadway north and then south as it curves toward a dirt path. Follow the exposed dirt path northeast. You’ll trudge through multiple water crossings and be blessed with the occasional shade of sycamore trees.

The narrows are often cooler than the rest of the area. The first portion of this hike has little to no shade, so make sure to wear plenty of sun protection.

And if you leave the trail but aren’t ready to go home, head over to the swim beach at Castaic Lake. And if you’re not tired, there’s always the Cali Splash Park, a massive inflatable floating park. That’s a full day of adventure!

A person in hiking gear lies across boulders near a cascade.

A hiker lies near the creek along the Icehouse Canyon Trail.

(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

3. Icehouse Canyon Trail to Icehouse Saddle

Distance: Around 7 miles
Elevation gained: 2,600 feet
Difficulty: Challenging
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: West Fork National Scenic Bikeway

Icehouse Canyon Trail to Icehouse Saddle is a 7(ish)-mile trek that runs mostly parallel to the gorgeous and crystal clear Icehouse Creek, which often features several short waterfalls as the water rockets down the mountainside.

As they trek through the canyon shaded by bigleaf maple, California incense-cedar and bigcone Douglas-fir, hikers might spot wildflowers including orange-yellow western wallflowers, light purple Grinnell’s Beardtongue and red western columbine.

Icehouse Canyon is popular on weekends and is best visited on a weekday if you can swing it. You’ll need either a $5 Adventure Pass, an annual America the Beautiful pass or other federal public lands pass to park.

To begin your hike, you’ll park at or near the trailhead — in the parking lot if it’s your lucky day. Otherwise, you’ll park along the roadside, taking good care to read signage and not block anyone’s driveway. Once while walking to the trailhead, I was greeted by a local dog whose collar informed me that he was allowed to meander about and knew how to get back home. I love small mountain towns.

After you park — and remember to display your pass, as forest service workers do ticket vehicles without them — you’ll head east to the trailhead.

A man in a tank top and shorts stands near a short waterfall that pours cool clear water into a creek bed.

A visitor cools down in the creek at Icehouse Canyon.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Immediately upon entering the canyon, you’ll be greeted with stunning beauty. Try not to become too distracted by the pools of water surrounded by large boulders. (No one will know if you skip the hike and just take a dip.)

About a mile into your hike, you’ll come to a crossroad where the Chapman Trail and Icehouse Canyon Trail intersect. Continue east on the Icehouse Canyon Trail. A mile farther, you’ll start the switchback portion of the trail, where you’ll gain about 1,200 feet in 1.5 miles. It’s a beautiful suffer fest.

Icehouse Saddle will offer you incredible views of the San Gabriel Mountains and Mojave Desert. You’ll likely meet other hikers here who are planning to continue their journeys to one of several peaks reachable from the saddle, including to popular spots like Cucamonga and Ontario peaks.

Hikers near large pine tree.

Hikers meander past boulders and large pine trees.

(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

It can be quite windy at Icehouse Saddle, so if you’re planning to have your lunch here (which I’ve done many times), consider packing a windbreaker.

The Times has been writing about hiking in Icehouse Canyon for more than 100 years, as city dwellers have long been drawn to its beauty. A July 1926 article about Icehouse Canyon started with a headline declaring, “Here’s a nice cool trip” in all caps.

“It is a trip which one will want to take more than once when its lure has gotten into the blood,” an unnamed Times journalist wrote.

May we all be so lucky to return again and again.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

A woman in an LGBTQ Pride shirt examines a plant with dense white clusters.

Docent Susan Hopkins leads a Pride Month hike during a previous year’s celebrations.

(L.A. County Department of Parks and Recreation)

1. Celebrate Pride across L.A. County
The L.A. County Department of Parks and Recreation will host several events celebrating LGBTQ+ Pride throughout June. Almost 60 county parks are hosting events, including from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday at Dalton Park in Azusa; from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday at Dr. Richard H. Rioux Park in Stevenson Ranch; and from noon to 2 p.m. Saturday at Crescenta Valley Community Regional Park in La Crescenta. For a list of all events, visit parks.lacounty.gov.

2. Walk for peace in L.A.
Los Angeles meditation nonprofit InsightLA will lead a free 12-mile Walk for Peace from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday. The walk will start at Hollywood Forever Cemetery and end with community picnic at Tongva Park in Santa Monica. Register at insightla.org.

3. Repair trails in remote forest near L.A.
The Lowelifes Respectable Citizens’ Club, a volunteer trail maintenance group, needs volunteers on Saturday and Sunday to help restore an overgrown segment of the Gabrielino Trail in Angeles National Forest. Volunteers will either ride gravel bikes down a 5.5-mile dirt road or hike in. Previous trail work experience not required. Register by emailing trailwork@lowelifesrcc.org.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A close-up image of a mosquito that's brown, gray and black and white.

The aedes aegypti mosquito, called the “yellow fever mosquito,” is well-known for spreading nasty illnesses like its namesake and dengue fever.

(Sameer Neamah Mahdi / Associated Press)

Here’s a sentence I didn’t expect to write this year (or ever): Google would like to release up to 64 million sterilized male mosquitoes in California and Florida to help combat mosquito-borne illnesses such dengue, Zika, chikungunya and yellow fever. “Google says it can harness technology to optimize a concept that’s been around for decades, but hasn’t worked at a large enough scale with mosquitoes to rein in disease,” Times staff writer Lila Seidman reported. The project is called Debug —although Google could have gone with WiFly.

I’ll see myself out.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

You’re sitting there thinking about your weekend, wondering, “Is there anywhere I could go dressed as a shark?” Why, yes, there is! The Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cosplay for Science will co-host the Science Entertainment Aquarium Convention from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday at the aquarium (3720 Stephen M. White Drive in San Pedro). SeaCon 2026 will feature a beach cleanup, a fictional marine biology panel and a cosplay contest, along with much more. Learn more at the aquarium’s Instagram page. Have a jaw-some time!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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Fury as UK airport hikes drop-off fees to £8 in move slammed as ‘disgusting’

ANOTHER UK airport has increased its drop-off fees in a move that has been slammed by passengers.

Dropping someone off at an airport can be pricey – and poses a risk of a hefty fine if you forget to pay the charge.

Empty airport gate with rows of seats and a large airplane visible through the window.
Various UK airports are hiking their drop-off and parking charges Credit: Alamy
Norwich Airport terminal building sign.
Norwich Airport’s drop-off fee has been increased Credit: Getty

With many major UK airports hiking the price of their drop-off fees in recent months, Norwich Airport has now done the same.

The East Anglian travel hub operates flights to dozens of locations across the UK and Europe.

With airlines such as Ryanair, KLM, TUI and more in operation at the Norfolk airport, the hub sees thousands of passengers a week.

On June 1, the charge for drivers dropping travellers off was increased from £6 for a 30-minute stay, to £8 for just 20 minutes.

RAIL FAIL

New UK train service is suspended after just a week due to ‘mechanical fault’


GROUNDED

Badly-behaved Brits face being banned from flying for LIFE under new Labour rules

Now, the fee change is being criticised, with passengers and drivers calling it “disgusting” and “mad”.

Meanwhile, taxi operators are being forced to warn customers that the charge will be part of their cab bill when rides are booked.

Mark Streeter, boss of Norwich’s Courtesy Taxis, told Norwich Evening News: “The main annoyance from our side is that we tell customers it’s an extra £5 or so, and now it’s gone up with no warning. So either the customer or the driver has to pay more than expected.”

Norwich Airport has responded to explain that the drop-off fee increase is a result of growing business costs and worsening energy prices.

A spokesperson for Norwich Airport told The Sun: “We understand that no one welcomes increased charges. But our airport group is facing sharp rises in costs, including a tripling of business rates, higher employment costs such as National Insurance and rising energy costs.”

Admitting that there is no choice but to rely on the public to absorb some of the growing costs, the spokesperson added: “At the same time, we continue to invest millions of pounds in maintaining the airport infrastructure needed to provide an essential public service in our regions.

“We cannot keep absorbing these increased costs without passing some of the additional burden on to our customers.”

Norwich’s change in drop-off policy comes alongside Stansted Airport‘s similar changes.

The London airport took its 15-minute express drop-off charge from £7 to £10 in March, with stays of up to 30 minutes now costing £28 instead of £25.

Meanwhile, London Gatwick‘s fee for a 10-minute drop-off now costs £10, up £5 from when it was first introduced in 2021.

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