Historic market town on the edge of Dartmoor has a Victorian arcade, independent shops and cafes – but locals say the town has changed.
The pretty UK town’s Victorian arcade was completed in 1896(Image: Katie Oborn)
Devon boasts countless charming towns, yet despite growing up in the county and spending most of my life here, there remain several I’ve yet to explore. Last weekend, I ventured to one Devon town for the first time – a place brimming with independent retailers, stunning green spaces, and genuine character.
Nestled almost at the county’s heart and perched on northern Dartmoor’s fringe sits the market town of Okehampton. My journey from Plymouth took me by rail through Exeter, where I switched to a compact two-carriage train running along The Dartmoor Line.
The scenic route winds past sheep-dotted fields, riverside vistas, and countless oak trees. Upon nearing Okehampton, a rather austere cluster of modern housing on the town’s outskirts came into view.
This tree-inspired town derives its name from Old English, with “Ock” meaning oak, whilst “hamtun” refers to a farm or settlement. The Visit Okehampton website notes that the town’s “prominence began in the Saxon era”.
Their website added: “The name “Okehampton” is derived from Old English, with “Ock” meaning oak and “hamtun” referring to a farm or settlement, indicating that it was likely a settlement near oak trees.”, reports the Express.
Stepping off after the agreeable 40-minute rail journey, the moorland proximity was immediately apparent from the noticeably cooler air. A brief stroll into town awaits, either through a parkland area or down Station Road’s slope.
The town centre is a delight, boasting quality fabric shops, unique independent stores, a Victorian shopping arcade, and local cafes and bakeries.
The Visit Okehampton website paints a vivid picture of the arcade: “The Victorian Arcade in Okehampton is a truly fascinating place.”
It adds: “For a small rural market town, being home to an original Victorian Arcade is really a mark of pride and the people of Okehampton are justifiably proud of this historical gem.”
Okehampton is a town brimming with character and steeped in history. It even boasts an impressive castle site on its outskirts.
While you can’t enter without booking a guided tour, you can still catch a glimpse of the medieval remains by peering over the fence.
A beautiful old church stands proudly in the heart of Okehampton, and historic pubs and inns line the main stretch of Fore Street. I popped into The Pig Pen Cafe for a coffee and a slice of cake.
I then stumbled upon a fantastic organic fruit and veg shop in Red Lion Yard, another part of the town just off Fore Street, dotted with ancient buildings and several excellent shops.
Among them was an antiques shop, a few independent clothing retailers selling stylish garments, and the Enchanted House Beds shop, which caught my eye with its Devon-made goods.
I had a chat with a friendly local woman in the New ‘2’ You shop next to The Cubby Hole antiques, located at one end of The Okehampton Victorian Arcade. She informed me that current roadworks are causing some disruption in the town.
Several road diversions are currently in place as Wales & West carry out an “essential gas upgrade project”, leaving residents in Okehampton struggling with disrupted car journeys – and the gas upgrade won’t be finished any time soon.
Wales & West Utilities state on their website that the upgrade is “progressing well” and the “£305,000 project” aims to upgrade gas pipes in the Exeter Road area of Okehampton.
They explained that the works “are essential to keep the gas flowing safely to heat and power local homes and businesses, keeping people warm for generations”.
Gas pipe upgrades are taking place across the country at various times, but for a small town like Okehampton, this can create significant problems as residents find it difficult to leave and visitors battle to enter the town.
A local woman I spoke to also mentioned that “so many of the fields have now been built on” which has “changed the town”, though I’m hardly surprised that more people are drawn to this charming spot with its authentic Devonian character – I just hope the new homes are affordable for local folk.