Greek

DOH! Homer – no, not the Simpsons character, I mean the ancient Greek poet – must have got it wrong when he penned his classic Odyssey saga some 3,000 years ago.

For legend has it that the tiny Dodecanese island of Lipsi is his fabled Ogygia, where a saucy siren called Kalypso kept Trojan war hero Odysseus a prisoner for seven years.

Now, according to Homer, Odysseus was desperate to escape from Ogygia and flee home to his wife Penelope in Ithaca, on the other side of Greece.

But after my week-long stay in Lipsi I can’t imagine anyone wanting to leave this lovely, laid-back island, lapped by the clear blue water of the Aegean Sea.

Especially with the cooling Meltemi breeze ensuring that, although the temperature can hover in the 30s in summer, it never feels oppressively hot.

Certainly Sally Vavoulas, from Tenterden, Kent, has not wished to leave.

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She arrived in Lipsi in 2001, fell under its spell ­— and is still there.

These days she helps run the island’s excellent winery with husband Manolis. But more of that later.

Lipsi is not one island but an archipelago.

Only three of its 24 isles are occupied — and one has just two residents — while most of the 800-strong population are clustered in a sprawling village on the main isle.

Ferries chug into the little harbour every day from Kos and Samos, a two-hour cruise away — and twice a week from Athens, a longer nine-hour voyage.

Berthed alongside them are millionaires’ luxury superyachts, which have sailed from faraway spots such as the Caribbean and the United States.

And tied up farther down the jetty are the locals’ tiny but colourful fishing smacks.

Fortunately, though, those huge skyscraper-like cruise ships are banned from Lipsi.

Lining the quay are a cluster of excellent tavernas — such as Pefko, where owner Nikos looks annoyed when I ask which is the best dish on that night’s menu.

“None is best,” he replies sternly, before breaking into a beaming smile and adding: “Everything’s superb.” Hmm, as I soon discover, Nikos isn’t wrong!

Just down the road there’s Kalypso, a restaurant owned by the brother of village mayor Fotis Mangos and named after the aforementioned siren.

Well, if she dished up a delicious sea bass like the one I tucked into, then no wonder Odysseus stayed for seven years.

Fotis, I have been warned, has a habit of suddenly breaking into song.

He doesn’t after joining me for dinner, but plays a YouTube video of him duetting with a Greek rapper on a little ditty called “Come With Me To Lipsi”.

Former PE teacher Fotis is justly proud of his “hidden gem” of an island, and would love to see more British holidaymakers venturing there.
September, he says, is ideal as the kids are back at school yet the sun is still hot and the sea remains comfortably warm.

Not too many tourists, though, because Fotis doesn’t want to turn the place into another overcrowded Santorini or Kos.

Probably unlikely, because there are no discos or nightclubs blaring out raucous music.

Nor will you find any sunbeds, parasols or pedalos on the tiny beaches scattered around its coves.

A couple do boast tavernas where you can sip a cold beer or the local aniseed-based ouzo over lunch. But most are virtually deserted and often you have them to yourself.

Two other restaurants in the village worth visiting are Manolis Tastes, whose chef was once voted Best in the Mediterranean, and Plateia, where Despina makes ice cream that is to die for.

One morning I take a 50-minute ramble along winding dirt tracks, following colourful hand-painted signs through the hills to Monodendri — which means “One tree”. It’s supposed to be a nudist beach, although none of the three sun-worshippers stretched out on towels are baring all when I arrive. And I don’t, either.

But it’s an idyllic, peaceful spot where you hear just the gentle waves.
Grand feast

I’ve hired a little runabout car from George’s Rentals but rarely use it. Lipsi is only some 16 square kilometres and you can walk to most places.

One day, hiking past lemon and fig trees, grapevines and donkeys, I bump into Dimitri, the island’s cheesemaker.

He doesn’t speak much English and only makes goat cheese — not surprising as there are twice as many goats as people on the island — but he offers me some. It’s delicious, at 13 euros a kilo.

The island is dotted with white, blue-domed churches, most just tiny family chapels with barely room to swing a cat (of which there are many on Lipsi).

One local tells me there are 400 churches, another reckons about 150.

So I ask the island’s priest as he sits sipping coffee outside a taverna. He reckons 57. And as from time to time Fr Georgios is called out to preach in all of them, he should know.

The biggest is Panagia Charou, or the Virgin Mary of Death Church, where a revered but rather strange icon shows her clutching a crucified Christ on the cross.

Every year on August 23, it seems that a bunch of withered lilies left there by a schoolgirl in 1943 miraculously bloom back to life.

The occasion is marked by a grand feast “filled with dancing and singing, eating and drinking, drawing believers from all corners”.

Out on another walk, I meet Nikiforos, who makes the island’s honey. He doesn’t speak English but happily shows me round his apiary.

Much of the honey is infused with the taste of thyme, which grows all over Lipsi. But, sadly, time isn’t on my side, and the holiday is almost over.

I manage to squeeze in a visit to Sally’s Lipsi Winery, where I taste four of their locally produced tipples.

One, a sweet red wine called Aposperitis, was served by the Greek President to Charles and Camilla during a state banquet in Athens a few years ago.

Sally wants to know which I prefer. So I umm and aah, before suggesting perhaps I should try a second glass of each.

Which is why, on my last night, I’m afraid I ended up rather tipsy in Lipsi.

A leading travel journalist who visited 27 Greek islands has concluded which three are their favourite and which two they would not return to again with popular islands like Crete and Mykonos ignored

A travel writer who visited 27 Greek islands has concluded which of the islands she has visited are her favourites.

Hannah Logan, a full time travel writer, travelled the length and breadth of the islands to ascertain which they would return to and which they would avoid.

After much consideration, they identified three they’d try again and two they would skip. The three islands in question were Symi, Milos, and Skiathos.

Writing in Business Insider Hannah praised Symi because it felt “more lowkey” than other places such as Mykonos and Santorini. She described it as “the perfect place to relax”.

Meanwhile, Milos was highlighted for having “some of the most stunning beaches in Greece” with Sarakiniko Beach standing out. Hannah added: “Several tiny fishing villages also add a unique factor to this island. In some of them, traditional boathouses have been renovated into cozy, waterfront villas and hotels.”

The third island Hannah took a shine to was Skiathos which she described as “charming” with a “lively” nightlife element and some of the greatest food Hannah had experienced on her travels. Also noted was the open air screenings of Mamma Mia, as some parts of the iconic film were shot on the island.

Whilst Symi, Milos, and Skiathos were favoured by Hannah, she noted that Kos and Mykonos was not to her liking as much. She described Mykonos as “overhyped” and said she wouldn’t return to Kos because “it didn’t feel special” to her.

Hannah isn’t the only individual to comment on the beauty and majesty of some of Greece’s islands with Crete also attracting positive attention.

Recently, Elafonisi beach came second in Tripadvisor’s survey of the world’s best beaches with visitors entranced by its ‘pink sand’.

Although it was beaten by Mexico’s Isla Pasion beach, it was the highest placed in Europe in the table with users praising the area for its “natural beauty, crystal clear waters and unforgettable views”.

However, the beach’s prowess has come at a cost. Despite averaging 4.4/5 across 16,000 reviews holidaymakers have been advised to time their visit right to avoid the crowds with 8am to 11am the best window of time.

Even the official page on Tripadvisor warns visitors, it said: “The amount of pink on display varies with conditions and the season. Regardless, the crystal clear waters make this a popular summer vacation spot, attracting sunbathers and water sport enthusiasts alike.

“Visit in the morning to beat traffic and secure a chair and umbrella before the crowds arrive. Or come in the evening for a stunning sunset when most people have left.”

UNLIKE the likes of Rhodes, Crete, Corfu – Fourni is a Greek island that has managed to stay a secret paradise.

It’s one that’s a favourite of Greek locals, and few Brits will have even heard of it.

Fourni is the main island in the Fournoi archipelago found in the Aegean Sea.

It’s only 12 square miles with just over a thousand residents.

The population tends to grow during the summer months – mostly by locals who live in Athens and surrounding towns.

With it being lesser-visited, it has even been called the “last true paradise of the Aegean.”

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Getting to Fourni has to be by ferry which docks in the main port, which is also where the main town is.

The white-washed buildings are clustered around the water, with terracotta roof tiles and the classic bright blue doors and window frames.

These aren’t just houses, but winding cobbled streets filled with cafes and tavernas where you can get fresh seafood and meze.

Lots of visitors praise Nikos Taverna, O Miltos and O Ksenixtis.

As you’d expect, the island has beaches galore, its coastline is scattered with bright blue bays and hidden coves,

Some of the most popular include Psili Ammos Beach which is nearest to the main town.

Kassidi Beach is considered one of the best for swimming; Vlihada Beach is surrounded by high rocks and has lots of small coves for exploring.

One visitor wrote on Tripadvisor: “Petrokopio is one of the best beaches on the island. The beach has crystal clear waters, smooth pebbles, and stunning surrounding cliffs.”

There aren’t hotels per se on the island; instead, there are lots of guesthouses, rooms, and studios.

Sun Travel found one holiday home that for a three-night stay in May works out at £155, or £77.50pp.

It has incredible views over the main town and main beach from a private balcony as well as its own sitting room, kitchen and bathroom.

Temperatures sit between 24C-29C from May to June, and can be as high as 32C in August.

One reason why Fourni and its surrounding islands aren’t as visited as the others, is that they’re not easy to get to.

The only way to reach the island of Fourni is by ferry.

There are ferries from Piraeus, the main port of Athens, and other islands in the Aegean Sea.

The closest airports are on Samos and Ikaria, both of which are then connected to Fourni by ferry.

In April, Brits can fly to Athens from £17 with a ferry over to Fourni starting from £42.

Here’s more on the ‘world’s best island’ which is in Greece – and has restaurants right on the beach…

One writer visited Paros, which was voted the world’s best island for 2025 – and here’s what she made of it…

“It’s got everything you want from a Greek destination with white and grey-lined pavements, chalky houses with blue window frames, all adorned with pink bougainvillea flowers hanging across from verandas – so I’m inclined to say it’s a must-see

“Paros had never been on my radar up until this summer when it kept popping up on social media – and now it’s been dubbed the ‘best island in the world’ by Travel + Leisure.

“The island is known for having beautiful beaches, traditional villages and a buzzing nightlife. Inspired by Instagram, I booked the tickets, confirmed an Airbnb, and was on my way.

“The journey wasn’t an easy one I’ll admit, my friend, Phoenix and I flew to Athens before getting on a connecting ferry to Paros, which took five hours.

“I was ushered into a taxi by a very friendly local who drove for 20 minutes across the island to Naoussa where I found paradise.

“It was completely different to Parikia, the streets were quiet, there were incredible beaches and I could hear the chatter of stall owners at the local shops selling jewellery, linen dresses and souvenirs.

“The food on the island was delicious, particularly the seafood – there were lots of sushi and fish risottos.

“Some of our favourites were Almond, Tsachpinis-Ouzeri ton Nautikon and Fotis All Day Bar. Luaz was especially popular as you get to eat dinner right on the water’s edge which is particularly impressive during golden hour.”

For more on Greece, check out this smaller Greek island with 70 beaches that experts warn you should see before it gets too popular.

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“TONY ‘the Slugger’ Rizzo, boss of New York’s Castelli crime family, wiped the blood off the baseball bat with the dead guy’s toupee…”

“Grandad!” 

“ . . . He jabbed a finger at his late accountant and shouted: ‘See what happens when you double-cross me, you muthaf . . . ’ ”

“Grandad!!”

“ ‘. . . and you gone and got your blood all over my freakin’ money. So now I gotta waste my day laundering it!’ . . . ”

“GRANDAD!!!”

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I am lying on a beautiful Greek beach, a good book in my hand and a cold Mythos beer on the table beside me.

It’s holiday perfection, but someone keeps interrupting.

Two-year-olds . . . it’s all about them, isn’t it?

My wife and I are in Skiathos with our daughter and her husband and our granddaughter Flo.

We’re on one of those multi-generational breaks — or as we grandparents call it, a working holiday.

(“Just off to the spa. Can you look after Flo?” “Can Flo stay with you while we go into town?” “We thought we might have dinner on our own tonight. Just the two of us . . . ”)

Luckily, we are at the Princess Resort, a wonderful hotel just 20 minutes from the island’s airport that knows how to help families relax — especially grandparents who have forgotten what holidaying with a toddler entails.

We first came here about 15 years ago, when my daughter and her brother and sister were young, and had one of our best ever family holidays. I didn’t get much reading done then either . . . 

The hotel may be the most famous on the island thanks to Mamma Mia!.

The cast stayed here during filming and Colin Firth loved it so much, he came back the next year.

You can see why. It is located in beautiful, manicured gardens in the sheltered bay of Agia Paraskevi.

Rooms are in a two-storey building in a semi-circle which means everyone gets a view of the beach.

And what a beach! A long stretch of immaculate golden sand with shallow, warm water gently lapping up against it. It’s the perfect setting for one of the big ambitions of our holiday: Operation Get Flo Swimming.

Flo loves going to the pool at home in Brighton and is just learning, but what would she make of the sea?

After some initial reluctance caused by the feel of the sand between her toes and several swallows of salty water, she soon takes to it.

And, naturally, it’s grandad she wants to keep going in with her for a splash about.

The beach’s sun loungers and tiki umbrellas are all reserved for guests and free but you can shell out on a cabana.

OK, this isn’t cheap at €90 a day but it is definitely worth it, especially with a baby or toddler. We were in Skiathos in June and, God, it was hot.

With a cabana you have a proper base on the beach in the shade where you can snooze, eat and read (yeah, right).

It’s vital when you are trying to keep a little one from getting sunburned.

The Princess Resort is great for children. There’s a complimentary kids’ club, the Little Seals Club, a superb outdoor play area and a €15-a-night babysitting service. (Now they tell me.)

Plus, a lot of the equipment you need — from high chairs and potties to car seats and even prams — is available from reception.

(Don’t even bother asking about the fuss we had packing for a holiday with a toddler.)

But, adults need a break, too, you know, and the hotel offers scuba diving, horse riding, water sports and fishing and sailing trips. Or you can just kick back and take advantage of the massages and beauty treatments in the spa.

The Princess Resort is B&B, which means you are not tied to the hotel for dinner.

But make sure you eat at Ammos, the hotel’s taverna on the beach, which specialises in fresh seafood.

It’s not cheap but the location and grub is definitely worth it. And they love kids.

As do the staff at the superb Platanias Taverna & Bar over the road from the hotel.

It’s a good value family-run restaurant serving traditional food, where children can run free while indulgent staff manoeuvre around them without complaint.

It would be Jan Leeming’s restaurant nightmare.

For an upmarket, foodie experience head to the waterfront Baracoa about ten minutes away from the hotel by taxi.

It’s expensive, but the setting and menu have made it one of the must-visit places to eat on Skiathos.

Oh, and for a meal WITHOUT nippers, try the Princess Resort’s sister hotel, the boutique adults-only Aegean Suites Hotel, just outside town. Amazing food and terrific views over the old marina.

One of the great things about Skiathos is that you don’t need a car.

There’s a bus stop right outside the Princess Resort and the fare into town is just €2.

Or splash out €40 and get a boat ride from the jetty along from the hotel and arrive in town in style.

A word of warning, though — taxis can be thin on the ground in Skiathos Town in the evening. So if you are planning a late return, get a cab into town and arrange a return pick-up with the driver.

There are plenty of upmarket boutiques, bars and restaurants to discover in this beautiful whitewashed island capital.

It’s great to sit on the waterfront with a beer and watch the boats come and go.

And not much beats wandering around the narrow alleyways and coming across some enticing looking bar or a cafe serving delicious Greek treats.

Watch out for the scooters, though.

Since Mamma Mia! was filmed in the Sporades islands, Skiathos Town has definitely moved upmarket and it is a lot busier — even though most of the movie locations are on Skopelos and Alonissos.

But it retains a friendly, down-to-earth vibe you simply don’t get in the A-list hangouts of Santorini and Mykonos.

Anyway, after a long, tiring day of exploring in Skiathos Town, Flo’s finally in bed — so at last I can get some serious reading done.

Here we go: “It was Peppa Pig’s birthday and Daddy Pig had a great idea . . . ”

WANT TO visit a Greek island but with less crowds? Well, one island that is closer to Turkey might be the answer.

Jet2 is launching new flights from two UK airports to the Greek island of Samos this summer.

The routes flying from Manchester and London Stansted Airports will be exclusive to Jet2 and Jet2holidays.

There will be two weekly flights from Manchester Airport to Samos between May 5 and October 30.

And there will also be two weekly flights from London Stansted to Samos between May 7 and October 29.

Samos lies just off the coast of Turkey and is well-known for its golden beaches – with 45 scattered throughout.

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The mountainous Greek island is also known for Muscat wine and across the island there are a number of vineyards you can visit.

For example, you could head to Vakakis Winery where you can go on a relaxed tour.

If you prefer history, across the island there are a number of historical ruins to explore as well.

In Vathy, the island’s main town and port, the Archaeological Museum of Vathy of Samos has treasures from the Heraion of Samos such as statues and pots.

You can also visit the site of Heraion itself, which costs £5.24 per person to visit.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site is a ruin of an ancient sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Hera – believed to be her birthplace.

Today, only one of the original 155 columns remains.

When it comes to exploring the island’s landscape, the green mountains provide the perfect place for a hike and the soft sand beaches are ideal for relaxing.

One beach, Tsamadou Beach, is well-known for having smooth pebbles and turquoise water.

There’s even a beach bar that will bring you drinks right to the lounger.

Another great spot is Potami Beach and the waterfalls.

The beach itself is large, but follow the river from the beach through the woodland and you will find a waterfall you can swim in.

Littered across the island there are also a number of smaller villages to discover.

In the picturesque fishing village of Kokkari, have a wander along the colourful waterfront and through narrow cobbled alleyways.

Many people who come to Kokkari enjoy windsurfing, as the area is known for having the ideal conditions for the sport.

And for those wanting a challenge, hike to Mount Kerkis which is the highest peak on the island at 1,433 metres.

The warmest weather on the island is usually from May to October and this is also when the tavernas are open – which if you do head to, you can expect to pay around €4 (£3.49) for a beer.

If you want to avoid crowds, June and September are the best months to visit.

When it comes to choosing somewhere to stay, there are a lot of villas over the island.

Though, there are some hotels as well like the Scorpios Hotel and Suites, which costs from £74 a night with a pool.

Steve Heapy, CEO of Jet2.com and Jet2holidays, said: “The launch of Samos for Summer 26 gives holidaymakers and independent travel agents access to this beautiful Greek island and the exclusive chance to enjoy an authentic slice of Greece from Manchester and London Stansted Airports.

“We are very pleased to be expanding our presence across Greece by adding this brand-new gateway to our portfolio, appealing to holidaymakers looking for a laid-back Greek island experience.”

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The historic island of Syros in the Cyclades is home to a cat sanctuary where volunteers from around the world can stay for free in exchange for caring for animals – and it’s been described as a quieter alternative to Santorini and Mykonos

Holidaymakers can seize the opportunity to live on a stunning Greek island with free accommodation, breakfast, and utilities in return for volunteering at a cat sanctuary and assisting with animal care. The position is based on the historic island of Syros, situated in the Cyclades within the Aegean Sea, where the Syros Cats sanctuary operates.

Since the 1990s, the sanctuary has led the way in feline welfare, implementing trap, neuter and return (TNR) schemes, overseeing animal health, and facilitating the safe integration of stray cats within the local community.

The sanctuary welcomes volunteers from across the globe to join its team and embrace animal care while discovering life on a Greek island. They are seeking volunteers who are physically capable, responsible, healthy, and self-sufficient, able to commit to staying for at least one month.

Applicants must be prepared to dedicate five hours daily, five days a week, to vital duties. These include cleaning living areas, preparing and serving meals, socialising kittens, and providing a secure, nurturing environment for the cats.

Those with veterinary expertise or experience handling feral cats are especially encouraged to apply, though the programme welcomes anyone prepared to roll up their sleeves, demonstrate reliability, and genuinely interact with the animals. In exchange, volunteers are provided with free lodgings, breakfast, and access to amenities, enabling them to fully concentrate on their tasks while basking in the Mediterranean sun, reports the Express.

The sanctuary’s efforts have revolutionised the dynamic between the island’s inhabitants and its cat population. Richard Bowell, co-founder of God’s Little People Cat Rescue, which works in partnership with Syros Cats, stated: “We want to show the world that we really care about animals. The way we treat them reflects something of our own humanity.”

As a result of these endeavours, the local community now regards cats with respect and pride, marking a significant departure from the apathy or animosity previously displayed.

Syros is often touted as a quieter, less touristy alternative to more renowned Greek islands such as Santorini and Mykonos. YouTubers Katie and George from Intersection Voyage highlighted the island’s allure during a recent trip: “Every year, millions of people travel to Greece’s most famous islands, Santorini and Mykonos. However, after travelling to both Santorini and Mykonos, I have come to realise that there are some other, way less commercialised islands, which are amazingly rich in history and scenery.”

They added: “We will be spending the next three days on one of Greece’s most historic and beautiful Greek islands, exploring hidden cave churches, local beaches, unique cuisine and the island’s famous tourist attractions.”

Reflecting on their experience, they said: “Looking back on this island, there was something just magical about it. It was unique and authentic and it had something for everyone. I found the locals were extremely kind and generous and were always willing to help if you needed it. We didn’t even scratch the surface of how many hidden places there are to see.”

Applications for the 2026 volunteer season are now closed, but those keen to participate in 2027 can apply when registration reopens in September 2026 via the official Syros Cats website or sign up to their newsletter for updates.