great

Deep in the heartland of rural Cheshire, there’s a wind-scoured ridge of sandstone that hides a two-storey cave known as Mad Allen’s Hole. Here, on the flanks of Bickerton Hill, it is said that in the 18th century a heartbroken man called John Harris of Handley lived as a hermit for several decades.

As locations to weather the storm of romantic trauma go, this – I mused as I stood above it on a crisp winter’s day – certainly takes some beating. Offering a panorama of nine counties of England and Wales from its entrance, I could spy the white disc of Jodrell Bank Observatory glistening in the sunlight, while the peaks and troughs of the Clwydian range appeared like a watermark in the distance.

I’d come here, not seeking solitude, but to meet up with Jose, an old friend I’d not seen for nine years, and to try a new walking package dreamed up by two Cheshire pubs along a prime section of the 34-mile (55km) Sandstone Trail between the villages of Tarporley and Malpas. The route follows the Sandstone Ridge, an ancient landscape of escarpments and rolling hills, rising from the Cheshire Plain.

The idea for the walk is simple: just because it’s winter doesn’t mean it has to be hard. Daylight hours are limited, the weather is less predictable, so why not stick to one 14-mile stretch, bookended with a comfy, warm room in each inn, and good food and drink – dinner on both nights and a cooked breakfast are included, as is an optional packed lunch. The pubs arrange the luggage transfer and a taxi when you finish to take you back to the start.

We met in the Swan in Tarporley – a 16th-century coaching inn, where, in front of a roaring open fire, we caught up on old times, studied the walk map and enjoyed food made from ingredients farmed practically on the doorstep. As we tucked into the cheeseboard (Tarporley blue comes highly recommended), owner Woody Barlow told us how the idea was born in the summer when they held a charity fun run between the two pubs in memory of the late owner Si Lees-Jones.

“It was so successful, we began to think – these two pubs have always been popular with walkers, cyclists and outdoor enthusiasts, especially those doing the Sandstone Trail in sections,” he said. “Many were trying to organise accommodation night by night, but we realised we could offer something much more streamlined. Plus at this time of year, the trail has a lovely stillness about it – the woods and ridgelines look magical in the winter light.”

I woke the next morning to the sound of rain on my window, but as I met Jose for breakfast – a hearty helping of eggs – the sky unexpectedly began to clear. Leaving the town, we followed country lanes, where the hedges bloomed with sloes. Acorns cracked under our boots. These nuts would once have been used for nourishing pigs before the start of medieval feasts – like those once held in Beeston Castle, the former royal fort built by the Earl of Cheshire on his return from the crusades in the 1220s, which filled the horizon.

We cut through a muddy field, making a beeline for this landmark, then followed the Sandstone Trail waymarks over the Shropshire Union Canal at Wharton’s Lock. We reached the tall red walls of rubble-filled sandstone blocks and huge wooden doors of the castle, said to house treasure from Richard II.

It was a tempting prospect, but with miles still to cover we made our way instead through the network of weaving pathways on Peckforton Hills, topped with towering red pines that give shelter from the icy wind but allow light to drop to the forest floor in dazzling spindles. Here we came across a Victorian castle folly built in the 1840s and now a hotel popular with wedding parties, but we were more taken with nature’s treasures in the form of sweet chestnuts on neighbouring Bulkeley Hill. The bark of these old trees would have once been used by passing Romans to tan leather and the nuts were essential rations for legionnaires.

We stopped here a while, enjoying our sandwiches from the pub on our first exposure to some of the tor-like sandstone that the ridge is named for, before soldiering on to our next summit – Raw Head on Bickerton Hill. At 227 metres (745ft), it’s not huge, but it is the highest point on the trail. We wandered through the forest talking about its history (its rocks were formed about 250m years ago in the Triassic period, and iron oxide has caused them to become banded in hues of red, terracotta and ochre, which cement the sand together) and our own past lives, discussing friends we once shared.

As the sun hung ever lower in the sky, we still had some climbing to do on Bickerton Hill, home to the hermit’s cave. The area is replete with lowland heath, once used for grazing, thatching, and foraging. Bilberries still grow there.

We traced the edges of Maiden Castle – the remains of an iron age hill fort built between 500 and 600BC and still occupied when the Romans arrived in Britain – before descending to country lanes, where someone had kindly left a wheelbarrow of apples for hikers.

The light emanating from the windows of the 300-year-old Lion pub welcomed us to our big finish nearly as warmly as the staff, who were suitably impressed with the distance we’d walked, making us feel like we’d had a proper adventure.

Before we retired to bed we raised a glass – to the views, the hearty food and, of course, to heartbroken John Harris – in short, to our perfect winter walk. We promised not to leave it another nine years before we walked together again.

The trip was provided by The Swan in Tarporley and The Lion in Malpas, with travel from visitengland.com. The Walk, Dine & Unwind on Cheshire’s Sandstone Trail package is from £199pp, including dinner, B&B at both inns, luggage transfer, one packed lunch and a taxi back to start, plus one dog stays free

If journalism is the first draft of history, TV news is a rough, improbable sketch. As last year’s wildfires multiplied, still 0% contained, field reporters — tasked with articulating the unintelligible on camera — grieved alongside Los Angeles in real time.

“What are you supposed to say when the entire community you were born and raised in is wiped off the map, literally burning to the ground before your eyes?” Jacob Soboroff writes in “Firestorm,” out in early January ahead of the Palisades and Eaton fires’ first anniversary. “I couldn’t come up with much.”

Viewers saw that struggle Jan. 8, 2025. Soboroff, then an NBC News national correspondent, briefly broke the fourth wall while trying to describe the destruction of his former hometown, the Pacific Palisades.

“Firestorm,” the first book about the Great Los Angeles Fires of 2025, pulls readers inside Soboroff’s reporter’s notebook and the nearly two relentless weeks he spent covering the Palisades and subsequent Eaton wildfire. “Fire, it turns out, can be a remarkable time machine,” he writes, “a curious form of teleportation into the past and future all at once.”

The book argues the future long predicted arrived the morning of Jan. 7. The costliest wildfire event in American history, so far, was compounded by cascading failures and real-time disinformation, ushering in what Soboroff calls America’s New Age of Disaster: “Every aspect of my childhood flashed before my eyes, and, while I’m not sure I understood it as I stared into the camera…I saw my children’s future, too, or at least some version of it.”

In late December, Soboroff returned to the Palisades Recreation Center for the first time since it burned. Tennis balls popped from the courts down the bluff. Kids shrieked around the playground’s ersatz police cars, ambulance and fire trucks — part of a $30-million public-private rebuild backed by City Hall, billionaire real estate developer Rick Caruso and Lakers coach JJ Redick, among others.

The sun peeks through the morning marine layer as Soboroff stops at a plaque on the sole standing structure, a New Deal-era basketball gym. His parents’ names are etched at the top; below them, family, friends, neighbors. It’s practically a family tree in metal, commemorating the one-man fundraising efforts of his father, the business developer Steve Soboroff, to repair the local play area. It was also the elder Soboroff’s entry point into civic life, the start of a career that later included 10 years as an LAPD police commissioner, a mayoral bid and a 90-day stint as L.A.’s’ fire recovery czar.

“All because my dad hit his head at this park,” Soboroff says with a smirk, recalling the incident that set off his father’s community safety efforts.

He checks the old office where he borrowed basketballs as a kid. “What’s happening? Are people still coming to the park?” he asks a Recreation and Parks employee, slipping into man-on-the-street mode.

On a drive down memory lane (Sunset Boulevard), Soboroff jokes he could close his eyes and trace the street by feel alone. Past rows of yard signs — “KAREN BASS RESIGN NOW” — and tattered American flags, grass and rose bushes push through the wreckage. Pompeii by the Pacific.

Jacob Soboroff.

(Eric Thayer / Los Angeles Times)

At the corner where he once ran a lemonade stand, Soboroff FaceTimed his mother on national television to show her what remained of the home he was born in. Before the fires, he had never quite turned the microphone on himself.

During the worst of it, with no one else around but the roar of the firestorm, “I had to hold it up to myself,” he says. “That was a different assignment than I’ve ever had to do.”

Soboroff is a boyish 42, with a mop of dark curls and round specs, equally comfortable in the field and at the anchor desk. J-school was never the plan. But he got a taste for scoops as an advance man to New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg. MTV News once seemed like the dream, but he always much preferred the loose, happy talk of public television’s Huell Howser. MSNBC took notice of his post-grad YouTube and HuffPost spots and hired him in 2015.

Ten years later, he was tiring of breaking news assignments and stashed away his “TV News cosplay gear” to ring in 2025. But when he saw the winds fanning the flames in the Palisades from NBC’s bureau at Universal Studios, he fished out a yellow Nomex fire jacket and hopped in a three-ton white Jeep with his camera crew.

The opening chapters of “Firestorm” read like a sci-fi thriller. All-caps warnings ricochet between agencies. Smoke columns appear. High-wind advisories escalate. Soboroff slingshots the reader from the Palisades fire station to the National Weather Service office, a presidential hotel room, toppled power lines in Altadena, helitankers above leveled streets and Governor Newsom’s emergency operations center.

Between live shots with producer Bianca Seward and cameramen Jean Bernard Rutagarama and Alan Rice, Soboroff fields frantic calls from both loved ones and the unexpected contacts, desperate for eyes on the ground. One is from Katie Miller, a former White House aide who cut contact after the reporter published “Separated,” his 2020 book on the Trump family separation policy. Miller, wife of Trump advisor Stephen Miller, asks him to check on her in-laws’ home. “You’re the only one I can see who is there,” she writes. Soboroff confirms the house is gone. “Palisades is stronger than politics in my book,” he replies. For a moment, old divisions vanish. It doesn’t last.

Jacob Soboroff at McNally Avenue and East Mariposa Street in Altadena.

(Eric Thayer / Los Angeles Times)

He returns home to Frogtown, changes out of smoke-soaked clothes and grabs a few hours’ sleep before heading back out. “Yet another body blow from the pounding relentlessness of the back-to-back-to-back-to-back fires,” he writes. Fellow native Palisadian and MS Now colleague Katy Tur flies in to tour the “neighborhood of our youth incinerated.”

After the fires, Soboroff moved straight into covering the immigration enforcement raids across Los Angeles. He struggled to connect with others, though. Maybe a little depressed. The book didn’t crystallize until April, after a conversation with Jonathan White, a captain in the U.S. Public Health Service Commissioned Corps, who is now running for congress.

Fire, White tells him, has become the fastest-growing threat in America and, for many communities, the most immediate. Soboroff began tracking down people he’d met during the blaze — firefighters, scientists, residents, federal officials — and churned out pages on weekends. He kept the book tightly scoped, Jan. 7–24, ending with President Trump’s visit to the Palisades with Gov. Newsom. He saved the investigative journalism and political finger-pointing for other writers.

“For me, it’s a much more personal book,” Soboroff says. “It’s about experiencing what I came to understand as the fire of the future. It’s about people as much as politics.”

Looking back — and learning from the fire — became a form of release, he said, as much for him as for the city. “What happened here is a lesson for everybody all across the country.”

Rudi, an L.A. native, is a freelance art and culture writer. She’s at work on her debut novel about a stuttering student journalist.

Cameron Norrie, Jacob Fearnley, Lloyd Glasspool and Julian Cash are also in the squad.

The winner will face either Australia or Ecuador in the competition’s second qualifying round in September.

In a post on X late last month,, external Draper described the injury as one of the most “challenging” and “complex” of his career.

He said the decision not to compete in the Australian Open, which begins on 18 January, had been “really, really tough”.

Draper struggled with discomfort in the top part of his serving arm – his left – for several months, eventually shutting down his season after withdrawing from the US Open in August.

It came after a successful first part of the year, with Draper reaching a career-high of fourth in the world in June and also securing a maiden Masters 1000 title with victory at Indian Wells in March.

THE CURRENT spat between Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger and President Bush echoes a California discord that contributed to the Republicans losing the presidency in 1916. A lesser prize is at stake this time — the governor’s initiatives — but rankled feelings may end with conservatives losing another November election.

Schwarzenegger’s refusal to join the president at a Ronald Reagan Presidential Library ceremony, and Bush’s rejection of the governor’s plea to postpone a local fundraiser until after next month’s special election, made national as well as local headlines. Neither man blinked, although their sagging popularity cries out for compromise and cooperation within the Republican ranks.

On the eve of the 1916 presidential election, California Gov. Hiram Johnson and Charles Evans Hughes, the GOP presidential candidate, exhibited similar obstinacy. It ended in a stunning defeat for Hughes, who expected to carry a heavily Republican California but instead lost the state and the election to Woodrow Wilson by a handful of votes.

Progressive Republican Johnson, a popular reform governor who was a candidate for the state’s U.S. Senate seat that November, was not a favorite of the more conservative wing of his party. He faced opposition in the GOP primary from mossbacks who rejected his efforts toward social and economic change. That August, Hughes made major speeches in California. At the same time, Johnson was furiously campaigning throughout the state in a close fight for his party’s senatorial nomination.

In mid-August, Hughes and Johnson spent several days in L.A. County. Taking a break from the campaign, Hughes made a quick trip to Long Beach, staying at the Virginia Hotel. Johnson had already checked in at the Virginia, and when word reached him that his party’s presidential candidate was there, he expected a courtesy call from him. But Hughes left without meeting with Johnson, a slight that irritated the progressive wing of the party.

The Times, an ardent supporter of Hughes and critic of Johnson’s progressive Republicans, neither reported Johnson’s campaign visit to Southern California nor Hughes’ snub. But other papers did. During the remaining two months of the campaign, Hughes’ seemingly insurmountable Republican majority evaporated. Among the reasons was his gaffe, which apparently turned off many would-be Republican voters.

(That wasn’t all that hurt Hughes. When he crossed a picket line in San Francisco, he made certain that the media were aware that he had intentionally done so. In an industrializing state, voters turned to Wilson, a more labor-oriented candidate.)

Johnson won the Senate race. Hughes lost California — and the presidency — by less than 4,000 votes.

The Schwarzenegger/Bush brouhaha, occurring in the midst of sagging poll numbers for both men, further weakens their appeal. The governor’s initiative proposals, already in trouble with the voters, may have suffered a fatal setback. The lame-duck president is fortunate not to be on the ballot this fall.

CALIFORNIA HAS sometimes been referred to as “the Great Exception,” but for better and worse, this term applies quite well to all of our United States.

We commenced our independence as the nation that overthrew a government of men for a government of laws. William Blake wrote poems about us; the French Revolution was in part inspired by us. Like all institutions, we often fell short of our best possibilities, but bit by bit, falteringly and over decades and centuries, we improved ourselves. Belatedly and grudgingly, we abolished slavery; still more belatedly, we admitted that equality of representation included women as well as men. There are places on this Earth that have not yet achieved this much.

Nor did we rest there. I have visited any number of countries where free speech is not even a dream. In America, I can rail against my government to my heart’s content, knowing that there will be no midnight knock at my door. If some bully in uniform does pick on me, I have a decent chance of legally escaping his clutches.

Not only has America striven intermittently to be fair and even good, it remains an excellent place to make and keep money. It is, as they say, the locus of the easy life. And so, in spite of Native American genocide, Jim Crow, ruthless monopolism, etc., we became and for a very long time remained an ideal for ourselves and others.

I remember an old man from what used to be called Czechoslovakia; he escaped the communist regime by skiing over many mountains, and he finally found haven in California. I ate at his restaurant 40 years later. He told me that he had always dreamed of living in America. He still considered America the best place on Earth. In so many countries — from Kazakhstan to Colombia to Afghanistan — I have met people like him, people who long to be saved by going to America.

I remain grateful to have been born an American. As I get older, I admire our Constitution more and more. But what I love the most about my experience of American-ness is our famous individualism. Not everyone needs to like me, but I assume, with some correctness, that my eccentricities will be tolerated. I am my own person — and sometimes lonely for that, but that is the price that an American pays. I am, as you are, an exception in a crowd.

We are Americans, and so until recently, we knew that we were the best. Because so many people wanted to be us, we could act as we pleased — and we did, because we were the Great Exception; we were America the Blessed. Hence our complacent belief, so long borne out by the facts, that American movies and American brands would always sell. Hence also our comforting faith that the Kyoto Protocol did not apply to us, so that we could spew out all the greenhouse gases we liked, and use a pig’s share of the world’s resources. (Just this week, I learned of the U.S.’ new plan for energy independence: coal plants, subsidized for the next 25 years.)

Being America the Perfect, we invented the doctrine, even before 9/11, that we could seize war criminals in any part of the globe and whisk them off to The Hague. Of course, we insisted that should we ever commit war crimes, we would remain immune to prosecution in that court. Well, after all, how could Americans do any wrong?

Our current administration of torturers (this word sounds so shrill, so preposterous in relation to the America I believe in, that I have to remind myself over and over that it is literally accurate, that this president and his two attorneys general have quite literally legalized torture) has gone further in this direction than I ever could have imagined. President Bush’s modus operandi is this: Bull your way ahead. If you meet obstacles, overcome them with arrogant bluster. If this fails, proceed to vicious, mendacious brutality.

I wish I could blame him alone for the degradation of the America I loved. Unfortunately, Americans not only voted for this man, but after he proved himself to be a criminal, they reelected him. As one of my friends replied when I asked why we should attack Iraq when Iraq had done nothing to us: “Why not attack Iraq?”

We were Americans, you see. Why not do whatever suited our whims?

And now what? “They hate us,” we whisper to one another in amazement. In another decade, we might even begin to wonder about the degree of our exceptionality. What if we had to follow the rules that everyone else does?

Well, why not put off that pain as long as possible? It’s much more fun to remain the Great Exception.

Alas, while we hunker down behind the drawbridge, awaiting our next 9/11, we don’t even take the trouble to be united. Exceptionalism undermines us from within.

Alaskan towns are tilting in the melting permafrost, but who cares down in the Lower 48? Republicans and Democrats hate each other. Automobiles isolate us. Generations of advice-givers have made us believe that profit best defines the successful life, and so the white-collar crooks of Enron and the ghetto thugs who murder as they please celebrate their own exceptionalism against the rest of us.

Exceptionalism may be understandable and even excusable, but it should not be eternally acceptable. All-white juries have unjustly convicted black defendants in this country, and that makes me ashamed; but the notion that a 21st century criminal trial cannot be fair unless at least some jurors are the same race as the defendant is of a piece with the idea that men and women will never understand each other, that Muslim cab drivers can refuse to pick up passengers who carry liquor and that right-to-life pharmacists can refuse to fill a desperate woman’s prescription for the morning-after pill.

Let’s pander while Rome burns! I’m not worried; I’ll never catch fire. Like each and all of us, I’m my own favorite exception.

The Great British Rail Sale is returning for the fourth year, offering millions of discounted tickets with savings of up to 50% and more on popular routes across the UK

A massive sale for rail travel is set to launch this month, offering up to 50% off on thousands of popular routes from nearly every train operator.

The Great British Rail Sale is back to make train journeys more affordable, boasting millions of discounted tickets. The week-long sale, taking place from 6 to 12 January 2026, presents an opportunity to secure bargain fares with over 50% savings on advance and off-peak tickets.

These reduced fares are valid for travel on thousands of routes from 13 January to 25 March 2026. With almost all train operators joining in and routes covering the length and breadth of the UK, it’s the perfect time to book, whether you’re planning a city getaway, commuting, or looking for half-term activities.

Some of the deals include £10 trips from South Coast destinations, such as Portsmouth to London Waterloo, offering a whopping 59% saving. Travellers hopping on the train from Exeter to London Waterloo can also enjoy a staggering 76% discount with tickets slashed from £41.70 to just £10.

In other deals, a 50% reduction will be available on the London Marylebone to Birmingham Moor Street route, with tickets going for a mere £7. Passengers can also benefit from the discounted journey from Manchester Piccadilly to Manchester Airport, which will be priced at just £1.20, down from £2.90, reports the Express.

Transport Secretary, Heidi Alexander, said: “The Rail Sale is back – and it means further discounts for passengers as we freeze rail fares for the first time in 3 decades to help ease the cost of living. We all want to see cheaper rail travel, so whether you’re planning a half-term getaway, or visiting friends or family, this sale offers huge reductions. It’s all part of our plans to build a railway owned by the public, that works for the public.”

This marks the fourth year of the Great British Rail Sale, with travellers saving approximately £8 per trip last year, leading to more than one million tickets being snapped up. The government is understood to be determined to increase the number of people using trains in an effort to reduce carbon emissions and clear road space for emergency vehicles and freight.

Jacqueline Starr, executive chairperson and CEO of Rail Delivery Group, said: “The Rail Sale gives people even more reasons to choose rail, whether it’s reconnecting with loved ones or exploring new places. Rail continues to play a vital role in the lives of millions, supporting local economies and offering a more sustainable way to travel.

“This year’s Rail Sale will offer millions of discounted advance fares across the network from 6 January, giving customers the chance to save on journeys big and small. By making rail travel more accessible, we hope even more people will enjoy the convenience and comfort of travelling by rail.”

Key discounts

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

THE brutal way Adam Peaty uninvited his great aunt and uncle from his wedding to Holly Ramsay just four days before the ceremony has been revealed.

The Olympic swimmer tied the knot with Gordon Ramsay‘s daughter on Saturday in a festive ceremony at Bath Abbey.

However, the lead up to their nuptials was fraught with drama, after Adam, 31, uninvited his mum Caroline when a feud erupted over her failing to be invited to Holly’s hen do.

It was then revealed that Adam had said his dad Mark could attend the wedding – but he would have to sit at the back of the church.

Unsurprisingly, Mark chose not to attend, as did Adam’s brothers James and Richard, meaning his sister Beth was the only family member at the ceremony, where she was a maid of honour.

Now, The Sun can reveal that his great aunt Janet, 73, and uncle Eddie were uninvited in a very brutal way just four days before the ceremony.

that’s rich

Adam Peaty’s ex slams name change as ‘hypocritical’ after Holly Ramsay wedding

STRICTLY SNUB?

Mystery as Adam Peaty’s Strictly partner Katya is snubbed from his wedding

A source said: “They got an automated message basically saying they were off the guest list and to respect Adam and Holly’s decision.

“It was so impersonal, and just four days before the big day.”

The brutal text came despite the fact the couple had already shelled out hundreds of pounds on accommodation, outfits and gifts.

In response to the bitter fall out, Adam’s aunt Louise sent a text of her own just hours before he walked down the aisle.

Her text allegedly read: “I hope you never suffer the depth of pain you have put your mother through and despite it all she loves you still. Shame on you both. Shame.

“Remember on this, your happiest day, and on each anniversary of your happiest day, that you hurt your mum so deeply her soul screams.”

However, Adam didn’t receive the text as he had blocked family messages.

Following the wedding ceremony, a reception was held at Kin House in Kington Langley, Wilts.

It saw Holly’s dad Gordon deliver a fiery speech where he made a dig at Adam’s absent parents.

The 59-year-old chef said his wife Tana “will be a good mum to them both”.

Gordon gushed at how beautiful Holly looked and told Adam he was a “lucky man”, adding: “Look at Tana and that’s what you have to look forward to.” 

And in a sly dig at Adam’s parents he told Holly, 25: “Shame you don’t have the same.” 

His words left Caroline “outraged and hurt” with an insider telling the Daily Mail: “Caroline can’t believe Gordon brought their family troubles up his speech. It is outrageous and very hurtful.

“By him saying Tana will be a good mum to them both makes Caroline sound like a bad mum. It was a cruel dig at her.

“She has always done her best for all her children. She is a very good mum.”

However, the newlyweds brushed off any further drama as they were pictured leaving Gordon’s London home on Monday to jet off on honeymoon.

Their trip comes after Adam changed his name on social media to Adam Ramsay Peaty, a move that was quickly criticised by his ex-girlfriend.

Eiri Munroe – who shares five-year-old son George with Adam – told friends she thought it was “hypocritical”.

A friend of his artist ex – who he split from in 2021 – says she wanted George to take her surname plus Adam’s, but claims he refused.

Eiri’s pal told The Sun: “It feels a bit rich to Eiri that Adam has been quick to change his name but didn’t allow her the same right for their son.”

The Sun has reached out to reps for Adam and Holly for comment.

For a family-friendly holiday, Wales has it all.

No matter the age – or the weather – there are attractions to suit, from adrenaline-fuelled water parks to museums that will ignite their passion for science. And the best bit? You don’t need to break the bank. 

If you’re heading to North Wales, you’ve got the epic natural playpark of Snowdonia to explore, as well as thrilling zip wire rides through quarries, such as Zip World Penrhyn Quarry for a treat.

Or how about taking mini marine biologists to spot sea creatures at the Anglesey Sea Zoo?

Meanwhile, South Wales is home to the capital – you could head to Bute Park for a picnic (tip: grab some traditional Welsh cakes from Bakestones) or see the Norwegian Church where children’s author Roald Dahl was christened (free to visit). 

The Cardiff Bay area also has free things to do on a day out, like scooting the Barrage embankment to the skate park and taking a selfie at the Enormous Crocodile bench. 

But don’t just take our word for it. We’ve chatted to Wales experts and Sun readers who have taken £9.50 Holidays in Wales for their favourite best family attractions located near our £9.50 Holiday parks.

Here’s what they said… 

Fun on the farm

Chantelle Hawkins, Guest Experience Manager at Trecco Bay, recommends Wiggleys Fun Farm for families.

She said: “It’s about 15 minutes away from our park and is a really good day out. They’ve got indoor and outdoor play areas as well as animal paddocks, sit-on tractors and a cafe.”

Open every day except Christmas and Boxing Day, the park is great value, costing from £4 for kids and from £2 for adults. 

Big thrills at the Aqua Park

Steph Powell, a parent blogger from South Wales, recommends taking older water babies to let off steam at the Aqua Park in Cardiff Bay (suitable from age eight upwards) with its inflatable slides, towers and “flip stations”.

There are plenty of wallet-friendly activities nearby for a family day out too.

Steph said: “In the summer holidays, Cardiff Bay Beach is free to enter, with rides and attractions for the whole family. We like the Bay and its surroundings, so usually we grab a coffee and stroll across Cardiff Bay Barrage.

“We enjoy the sea air, and taking in the views as we go.

There’s a sandy play park and skate park along the route, too. These days can be as cheap or expensive as you like. We often take a picnic so it only means covering parking, petrol and coffees/ice creams.”

Spark their imaginations

Chantelle Hawkins recommends Techniquest, a science attraction in Cardiff, around half an hour from Trecco Bay.

Kids of all ages can dive into science, technology and engineering via over 100 hands-on exhibits and live shows.

A good all-weather option, highlights include a planetarium, sensory garden and a Mini Metro Play Zone for under-sevens.

Chantelle said: “It’s really fun for all ages and isn’t expensive.” Tickets cost £11.81 for adults and £10 for children; free for under-threes.

Hit the market…and fairground at Tir Prince

Nicola Jones, 36, from Worsley, Manchester, has been visiting Lyons Robin Hood, on the coast of Rhyl in North Wales, since she was a child.

She said: “It’s somewhere where we’ve always gone. We usually go to Tir Prince Market because there’s loads of parking and a fairground next to it, which the kids love.”

The fairground has everything from rollercoasters for thrill seekers, to bumper cars and caterpillar rides for little ones.

The market is also a great place to pick up a bargain, with Pound shops and hundreds of stalls and a car boot area selling things like fresh food and second-hand household goods.  

Go wild at the zoo 

With stunning panoramic views of Colwyn Bay, the Welsh Mountain Zoo is within easy reach of Lyons Robin Hood, just a half-hour drive along the coast.

Nicola Jones said: “It’s a great option for children. They have some more unusual animals there, like tigers, camels and snow leopards.

“The site is mostly outdoors, so bring warm clothes and prepare for steps and narrow paths.”

Tip: if you’re taking a buggy, pick up a free map at the entrance showing pram-friendly routes. Tickets from £12.98pp for a family of four; free for under-threes.

Match of the Day pundit Joe Hart says Richarlison stood out for Tottenham Hotspur in a match where they were ‘absolutely battered’ by Crystal Palace, despite winning 1-0.

WATCH MORE: Gray heads Spurs to victory at Crystal Palace

Available to UK users only.

WHOEVER or whatever chiselled Chesil Beach did a mighty fine job.

The XXXL sandstone cliffs and 12 miles of shingle on Dorset’s Jurassic Coast are a treat for fossil hunter, swimmer and rambler alike.

But for a winter getaway, whether you like a bracing seaside walk, or brooding, storied villages like from the Thomas Hardy novels, Dorset is your wonderland.

First stop on our recent break was the latter — the village of Cranborne, inspiration for Hardy’s Tess Of The D’Urbevilles with its Norman church, coaching inn and thatched cottages.

But our Victorian hotel-restaurant La Fosse was as worldly as it was olde-worlde — chef-patron Mark Hartstone’s cuisine as classy as the interior design by his French wife Emmanuelle and the dining area’s woodland mural with REAL branches.

The menu proudly lists Mark’s local suppliers and our three-course feast, £75 for two, included treats such as anchovies and rhubarb compote, pork tenderloin in apple sauce, and braised quince with praline ice cream. Our bedroom was then just as sumptuous, with church view.

‘timeless classic’

Ex-England star puts Dorset mansion with sea views on market for £12m

FIRE FEARS

Dorset Wildfire ‘may last days’ as major incident declared & blaze spreading

Our next stop, Portland Peninsula in the English Channel off Weymouth, could not have differed more — the full windsock, this wild outpost, but great for blowing away thoughts of the annual tax return.

Our home, though, was the height of comfort — literally so, for the Pennsylvania Estate’s luxury Clifftop Apartments lord it high over the Channel with grandstand terraces.

Hewn of the same Portland Stone as Buckingham Palace, these glass-fronted superpads with James Bond-style kitchen-lounge, two bedrooms, and your own telescope for whale-watching, are quite the treat for two couples sharing or a family.

We swam in nearby Church Ope Cove, named for a now ruined 11th- century chapel with pirate graves — and it was a fine appetiser before bussing into Weymouth for dinner.

Star of the town’s bouji harbour is seafood restaurant The Catch, hailed recently by one posh critic as “the best restaurant in the world”.

Again, you are in treat land — the tasting menu and wine flight for two costs several hundred. But our fare, from oyster with fermented chilli and pickled shallot, and pickled mackerel with beetroot and salted plum, to chocolate, pear and hazelnut praline choux, was of the gods.

The harbourside Ebike Cafe, in a former grain warehouse, is also foodie heaven — its power porridges, buddha bowls, smoothies and fine wines as hipster-trendy as anything East London could serve up.

Across the harbour is Bennett’s Fish & Chips — top spot to meet the locals and admire old photos of the town — before the posh eateries then spill out on to nearby Chesil Beach.

Walk the epic shore, famed for TV drama Broadchurch, and The Watch House, Hive Beach Cafe and The Club House all offer premium bites.

At the first, we had the best beer-battered haddock, with craft cider, and at The Club House sea bass in seaweed butter sauce, and oysters.

If all that makes you lazy, The Island Sauna, overlooking Portland Harbour, is just the place to flop.

Another trip highlight, literally, was a tour of the Edwardian Portland Bill Lighthouse. As you climb its stair, you hear a haunting recording of the foghorn, at a polite fraction of full might, before being regaled with Spanish Armada tales.

Offshore is the Portland Brace tidal race where currents collide to create perilous turbulence, and our guide told how Sir Francis Drake suckered the Spanish into it before turning his guns on them.

Dorset get more exciting? Surely not.

Robertson had played for Scotland at schoolboy and youth level before joining Forest as a teenager in 1970. He had failed to make an impact until Clough’s appointment, but the great manager saw something he could nurture.

In his autobiography Clough wrote: “Rarely could there have been a more unlikely looking professional athlete… scruffy, unfit, uninterested waste of time… but something told me he was worth persevering with and he became one of the finest deliverers of a football I have ever seen.”

He also wrote: “If one day, I felt a bit off colour, I would sit next to him. I was bloody Errol Flynn in comparison. But give him a ball and a yard of grass, and he was an artist, the Picasso of our game.”

Clough was idolised by Robertson, who said: “I knew he liked me but I loved him. I wouldn’t have had a career without him.”

Robertson played in 243 consecutive games between December 1976 and December 1980, and despite the big-name buys such as England goalkeeper Peter Shilton and Francis, Britain’s first £1m footballer, he was the player who made Forest tick.

For all the talent elsewhere, Robertson was Forest’s fulcrum.

In Forest’s first season back in the top flight under Clough in 1977-78, Robertson not only played a vital role in winning the title, but also scored the winner from the penalty spot against Liverpool in their League Cup final replay at Old Trafford.

It was not just Clough who recognised Robertson’s significance, with former team-mate Martin O’Neill saying: “He was the most influential player in Europe for maybe three-and-a-half to four years.”

And Forest’s captain under Clough, John McGovern, stated: “He was like Ryan Giggs but with two good feet.”

All this despite Robertson’s own admission that he had no pace and could not tackle.

Clough, however, was not bothered about what Robertson could not do, preferring to give him licence to concentrate on what he could do. It was the perfect footballing marriage of manager and player. Two maverick characters working in harmony.

In a famous interview before the 1980 European Cup final against Hamburg, who had England captain Kevin Keegan in their side, Clough was asked about the prospect of their great Germany right-back Manfred Kaltz keeping Robertson quiet.

“We’ve got a little fat guy who will turn him inside out,” said Clough. “A very talented, highly skilled, unbelievable outside-left.”

This remarkable house has stayed standing through many major events, even surviving the Great Fire of London, despite huge areas of the city being destroyed, and attempts to have it demolished

London’s most intriguing landmarks often lie hidden in plain sight, tucked away down side streets. A prime example of this lies down the street of Cloth Fair.

This narrow road near Smithfield Market in the City of London, owes its name to its medieval past as a hub for merchants. Today, instead of bustling scenes of street trading, it’s mostly residential and offers a tranquil retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle.

Yet, one building stands out due to its historical significance. 41-42 Cloth Fair, built between 1597 and 1614, holds the distinction of being London’s oldest surviving house. But what truly sets this four-bedroom townhouse apart is its resilience through various tumultuous periods in history, including its survival of the Great Fire of London.

The Great Fire of London obliterated over 70,000 homes, leaving this townhouse amidst a sea of ruined properties. However, a tall brick wall encircling the property shielded it from the devastating flames, reports the Express.

But this wasn’t the first time the house had dodged disaster. During the Second English Civil War, when many city properties were razed, the house remained unscathed. Unfortunately, its builder, Henry Rich, wasn’t as fortunate. A Royalist, Rich was apprehended, tried, and ultimately beheaded within the grounds of the Palace of Westminster.

The property’s first occupant was William Chapman, who transformed the ground floor into an ale house. Over the centuries, the building has served various purposes, from a wool drapers to a tobacconist, and then a cutlery factory until the 1920s when it was sold.

Since then, it has functioned as a private dwelling and continues to be a home today. The 1920s nearly witnessed the demolition of 41-42 Cloth Fair. In 1929, there were proposals to raze the house along with numerous other historic buildings as part of a plan to improve sanitation in city housing.

Doubts were also raised about its structural integrity, and it was marked as dangerous. But remarkably, the house was spared from demolition and even survived the Blitz unscathed, while 1.7 million buildings across London were damaged and many historical landmarks were lost forever.

In 1995, new owners acquired the property, carried out extensive renovations, and won a City Heritage Award a few years later. One particularly noteworthy historical feature is a collection of signatures etched into the lead windows using a diamond pen.

These autographs belong to several high-profile individuals who have visited the house over the years, including Winston Churchill, the Queen Mother, John Betjeman, and J. B. Priestley.

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The house’s age, coupled with its location near a medieval priory, has even sparked rumours of skeletons entombed deep within its foundations.

Whether there’s any truth to these rumours or not, it seems these souls can rest undisturbed under the watchful protection of this seemingly indestructible house.

Have a story you want to share? Email us at webtravel@reachplc.com

The Great Omari Mosque is one of Gaza City’s most significant landmarks, with origins dating back more than 2,000 years. It was destroyed in an Israeli strike in December 2023. Hatem Haniya, the mosque’s administrator, reflects on its history and its deep significance to the people of Gaza.

When Fernando Mendoza won the Heisman Trophy this weekend with another Latino finalist looking on from the crowd, the Cuban-American quarterback did more than just become the first Indiana Hoosier to win college football’s top prize, and only the third Latino to do so. He also subtly offered a radical statement: Latinos don’t just belong in this country, they’re essential.

At a time when questions swirl around this country‘s largest minority group that cast us in a demeaning, tokenized light — how could so many of us vote for Trump in 2024? Why don’t we assimilate faster? Why does Supreme Court justice Brett Kavanaugh think it’s OK for immigration agents to racially profile us? — the fact that two of the best college football players in the country this year were Latino quarterbacks didn’t draw the headlines they would’ve a generation ago. That’s because we now live in an era where Latinos are part of the fabric of sports in the United States like never before.

That’s the untold thesis of four great books I read this year. Each is anchored in Latino pride but treat their subjects not just as sport curios and pioneers but great athletes who were and are fundamental not just to their professions and community but society at large.

Shea Serrano writing about anything is like a really great big burrito — you know it’s going to be great and it exceeds your expectations when you finally bite into it, you swear you’re not going to gorge the thing all at once but don’t regret anything when you inevitably do. He could write about concrete and this would be true, but his latest New York Times bestseller (four in total, which probably makes him the only Mexican American author with that distinction) thankfully is instead about his favorite sport.

“Expensive Basketball” finds Serrano at his best, a mix of humblebrag, rambles and hilarity (of Rasheed Wallace, the lifelong San Antonio Spurs fan wrote the all-star forward “would collect technical fouls with the same enthusiasm and determination little kids collect Pokémon cards with.”) The proud Tejano’s mix of styles — straight essays, listicles, repeated phrases or words trotted out like incantations, copious footnotes — ensures he always keeps the reader guessing.

But his genius is in noting things no one else possibly can. Who else would’ve crowned journeyman power forward Gordon Hayward the fall guy in Kobe Bryant’s final game, the one where he scored 60 points and led the Lakers to a thrilling fourth-quarter comeback? Tied a Carlos Williams poem that a friend mistakenly texted to him to WNBA Hall of Famer Sue Bird? Reminded us that the hapless Charlotte Hornets — who haven’t made it into the playoffs in nearly a decade — were once considered so cool that two of their stars were featured in the original “Space Jam?” “Essential Basketball” is so good that you’ll swear you’ll only read a couple of Serrano’s essays and not regret the afternoon that will pass as quickly as a Nikola Jokic assist.

“Mexican American Baseball in the South Bay”

(Gustavo Arellano/Los Angeles Times)

I recommended “Mexican American Baseball in the South Bay” in my regular columna three years ago, so why am I plugging its second edition? For one, the audacity of its existence — how on earth can anyone justify turning a 450-page book on an unheralded section of Southern California into an 800-page one? But in an age when telling your story because no one else will or will do a terrible job at it is more important than ever, the contributors to this tome prove how true that is.

“Mexican American Baseball in the South Bay” is part of a long-running series about the history of Mexican American baseball in Southern California Latino communities. What’s so brilliant about this one is that it boldly asserts the history and stories of a community that too often get overlooked in Southern California Latino literature in favor of the Eastsides and Santa Anas of the region.

As series editor Richard A. Santillan noted, the reaction to the original South Bay book was so overwhelmingly positive that he and others in the Latino History Baseball Project decided to expand it. Well-written essays introduce each chapter; long captions for family and team photos function as yearbook entries. Especially valuable are newspaper clippings from La Opinión that showed the vibrancy of Southern Californians that never made it into the pages of the English-language press.

Maybe only people with ties to the South Bay will read this book cover to cover, and that’s understandable. But it’s also a challenge to all other Latino communities: if folks from Wilmington to Hermosa Beach to Compton can cover their sports history so thoroughly, why can’t the rest of us?

(University of Colorado Press)

One of the most surprising books I read this year was Jorge Iber’s “The Sanchez Family: Mexican American High School and Collegiate Wrestlers from Cheyenne, Wyoming,” a short read that addresses two topics rarely written about: Mexican American freestyle wrestlers and Mexican Americans in the Equality State. Despite its novelty, it’s the most imperfect of my four recommendations. Since it’s ostensibly an academic book, Iber loads the pages with citations and references to other academics to the point where it sometimes reads like a bibliography and one wonders why the author doesn’t focus more on his own work. And in one chapter, Iber refers to his own work in the first person — profe, you’re cool but you’re not Rickey Henderson.

“The Sanchez Family” overcomes these limitations by the force of its subject, whose protagonists descend from Guanajuato-born ancestors that arrived to Wyoming a century ago and established a multi-generational wrestling dynasty worthy of the far-more famous Guerrero clan. Iber documents how the success of multiple Sanchez men on the wrestling mat led to success in civic life and urges other scholars to examine how prep sports have long served as a springboard for Latinos to enter mainstream society — because nothing creates acceptance like winning.

“In our family, we have educators, engineers and other professions,” Iber quotes Gil Sanchez Sr. a member of the first generation of grapplers. “All because a 15-year-old boy [him]…decided to become a wrestler.”

Heard that boxing is a dying sport? The editors of “Rings of Dissent: Boxing and Performances of Rebellion” won’t have it. Rudy Mondragón, Gaye Theresa Johnson and David J. Leonard not only refuse to entertain that idea, they call such critiques “rooted in racist and classist mythology.”

(University of Illinois Press)

They then go on to offer an electric, eclectic collection of essays on the sweet science that showcases the sport as a metaphor for the struggles and triumphs of those that have practiced it for over 150 years in the United States. Unsurprisingly, California Latinos earn a starring role. Cal State Channel Islands professor José M. Alamillo digs up the case of two Mexican boxers denied entry in the United States during the 1930s, because of the racism of the times, digging up a letter to the Department of Labor that reads like a Stephen Miller rant: “California right now has a surplus of cheap boxers from Mexico, and something should be done to prevent the entry of others.”

Roberto José Andrade Franco retells the saga of Oscar De La Hoya versus Julio Cesar Chávez, landing less on the side of the former than pointing out the assimilationist façade of the Golden Boy. Mondragón talks about the political activism of Central Valley light welterweight José Carlos Ramírez both inside and outside the ring. Despite the verve and love each “Rings of Dissent” contributors have in their essays, they don’t romanticize it. No one is more clear-eyed about its beauty and sadness than Mondragón’s fellow Loyola Marymount Latino studies profe, Priscilla Leiva. She examines the role of boxing gyms in Los Angeles, focusing on three — Broadway Boxing Gym and City of Angels Boxing in South L.A, and the since-shuttered Barrio Boxing in El Sereno.

“Efforts to envision a different future for oneself, for one’s community, and for the city are not guaranteed unequivocal success,” she writes. “Rather, like the sport of boxing, dissent requires struggle.”

If those aren’t the wisest words for Latinos to embrace for the coming year, I’m not sure what is.

United States President Donald Trump’s second administration has introduced a bold and unconventional strategy for the Middle East. The administration intends to recalibrate US influence in a region historically scarred by conflict, prioritising regional stability through economic strength and military consolidation by asserting a stronger, business-minded US presence.

At the centre of Trump’s ambitious goal is what the new US envoy to Iraq, Mark Savaya, described as his goal to “make Iraq great again”. This approach moves away from traditional endless war tactics towards a transactional, results-oriented diplomacy that aims to restore Iraqi sovereignty and economic vitality. It could be the “great gamble” for Trump, who seeks an Iraq that serves as a stable, sovereign regional hub rather than a battleground for foreign interests.

Trump’s primary plans and wishes for Iraq involve a twofold mission: consolidating all armed forces under the command of the legitimate state and drastically reducing the influence of malign foreign players, most notably Iran. The administration seeks to open Iraqi markets to international investment, upgrade the country’s infrastructure, and secure the independence of its energy sector. Hence, the plan is to ground a genuine partnership that respects Iraq’s unity while ensuring that it is no longer a central node for militia activity or external interference.

Militias and political gridlock

This assertive US strategy lands directly in a highly contested and fractured political environment in Iraq, which is less a single state than a patchwork of competing powers. The heart of the problem lies not just in parliament, but also in the persistent shadow influence of armed factions and militias that often operate outside the formal chain of state command. Those groups were among the biggest winners in the November 2025 elections.

Now the ongoing government negotiations have thrown a stark light on these non-state actors.

Their power raises crucial concerns for the future: How can Iraq enforce the law and, crucially, attract the foreign investment needed for revival if armed groups challenge state authority? The consolidation of the country’s armed forces under complete state control is an urgent necessity, underscored by rising regional tensions and security threats.

Moreover, the path to achieving genuine stability is severely obstructed by entrenched political interests.

For Iraq to achieve stability, it must urgently strengthen its institutional frameworks and clearly establish a separation of powers. Yet, many political parties seem more focused on maintaining control over lucrative state resources than on implementing the meaningful reforms the country desperately needs. The result is a governance model struggling to stand firm amid the crosscurrents of competing loyalties and power grabs.

Washington’s play

To achieve these high-stakes goals, Trump has bypassed traditional diplomatic channels by appointing Mark Savaya as the US special envoy to Iraq on October 19. Such an appointment signals a shift towards “deal-making” diplomacy. Savaya’s mission is to navigate the complex political turmoil following Iraq’s parliamentary elections to steer the country towards a stable transition. His job is to bridge the gap between institutional support and massive financial investment, acting as a direct representative of Trump’s business-centric foreign policy.

Savaya is an Iraqi-born, Detroit-based businessman lacking the traditional diplomatic background; his experience is rooted in the private sector in the cannabis industry, but he gained political prominence as an active supporter of Trump’s campaign in Michigan.

He played a key role in the delicate negotiations that secured the release of Elizabeth Tsurkov, the Israeli-Russian academic and Princeton University student who had been kidnapped by an Iraqi militia for more than two years.

Savaya’s communal and ethnic ties have given him significant access to Iraqi power centres that traditional diplomats often lack.

The Iran factor

Iraq’s position in a geopolitical tug-of-war is compounding the internal struggles, forced to balance its critical relationships with two giants: the US and Iran. On the one hand, Washington’s objective is clear: it wants to bolster Iraq’s sovereignty while simultaneously pushing back against the dominance of powerful, often Iran-backed, militias. The US believes that allowing these armed groups too much sway could leave the nation isolated and wreck its fragile economic stability.

But Iranian influence remains a formidable and enduring force. Tehran views Iraq not just as a neighbour but also as a crucial strategic ally for projecting its power across the entire region. The Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps (IRGC) has been actively working to maintain unity among key Shia factions in Baghdad. This move clearly signals Iran’s deep and enduring interest in shaping Iraq’s political alignment and its future path. Iraq must therefore navigate this high-stakes balancing act to survive.

Savaya’s mission unfolds at a time when Iran’s regional “axis of resistance” is under unprecedented pressure. Having already lost their primary foothold in Syria after the fall of the Assad regime in late 2024, and seeing Hezbollah’s political and military standing in Lebanon severely decimated by the 2025 conflict with Israel, Iranian proxies now face the very real prospect of losing their grip on Iraq too.

In Lebanon, a new government is committed to regaining the state’s monopoly on the use of force, leaving Hezbollah increasingly isolated. This regional retreat means that for Tehran, maintaining influence in Baghdad is a final, desperate stand to remain a relevant regional power.

Other regional actors

The success of Trump’s gamble also depends on the roles of other regional players. Turkiye has recently recalibrated its strategy to integrate Iraq into ad hoc regional trade and security frameworks, effectively diluting Iran’s centrality. Simultaneously, Gulf monarchies such as Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates are emerging as key economic and security partners for Baghdad, offering an alternative to reliance on Iran.

However, these regional actors also bring their own agendas — such as Turkiye’s focus on containing Kurdish movements — which may conflict with US objectives. If Savaya can successfully align these diverse regional interests with Trump’s plan, he may fundamentally rewrite Iraq’s turbulent future.

A realist pragmatism

The “Make Iraq Great Again” strategy reflects a pragmatic reassertion of US interests within the anarchic international system, prioritising Washington’s security and economic power over idealistic goals.

By appointing Savaya — an unconventional, business-oriented envoy — the Trump administration is employing “transactional realism”, utilising economic diplomacy and personal ties as strategic tools to pull Iraq away from Iran’s orbit. This approach views the US-Iran rivalry as a zero-sum game of power politics, where integrating Iraq’s armed forces under centralised state control is fundamental to restoring a state-centric order and sidelining non-state militias that currently feed Tehran’s regional influence.

The new US envoy to Iraq has made clear that “there is no place for armed groups in a fully sovereign Iraq”. His calls resonated with Iraqi officials and militia leaders alike – now at least three militias close to Iran have publicly agreed to disarm. However, other groups have yet to do the same, while rejecting the call from the outset.

However, this high-stakes attempt to shift the regional balance of power faces a significant “security dilemma”, as aggressive moves to diminish Iranian influence may trigger a violent defensive response from Tehran to protect its remaining strategic assets. While the strategy seeks to exploit a regional shift – leveraging the weakened state of Iranian proxies in Syria and Lebanon – it must contend with the “hybrid” power of Iraqi militias and the narrow self-interests of neighbouring players like Turkiye and the Gulf states.

The success of this gamble depends on whether the US can dismantle the shadow economies that facilitate foreign interference and establish a stable, autonomous Iraqi state capable of navigating the intense geopolitical tug-of-war between Washington and Tehran.

The stakes for Iraq’s future

Ultimately, the appointment of Savaya serves as the definitive stress test for Iraqi sovereignty, marking a high-stakes transition towards a transactional “America First” strategy aimed at “Making Iraq Great Again”. By attempting to consolidate military command under the state and dismantle the shadow economies fuelling Iranian influence, Savaya’s mission seeks to exploit the current regional weakening of Tehran’s proxies to transform Iraq into a stable, autonomous hub.

However, the success of this “Great Gamble” hinges on Savaya’s ability to overcome entrenched political opposition and reconcile the presence of US forces with the demand for national unity. If this unconventional diplomatic push can bridge internal divides — particularly between Baghdad and the semi-autonomous Kurdish region in the north — Iraq may finally secure a path towards economic independence; otherwise, the nation risks remaining a perpetual battleground caught in the geopolitical crossfire between Washington and Tehran.

The views expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not necessarily reflect Al Jazeera’s editorial stance.

IT was the year when those noisy Mancunian brothers brought the Britpop Nineties back to packed stadiums everywhere.

It was the year when Pulp made a charming first album in 24 years, with Jarvis Cocker singing about getting older with a wry smile on his face.

But I contest that one band from the era has been the most forward-facing, the most creative and the most kick-ass – Suede.

Which is why their vibrant, visceral, unflinching and wildly adventurous Antidepressants is our Album Of The Year.

Back in September to mark its release, frontman Brett Anderson told me: “We’ve fallen in love with being a rock band again.” And this week I caught up with him again to impart some good news . . . 

Congratulations! Antidepressants is the SFTW Album Of The Year. Does that make you happy?

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Thank you. Very!

In all the years of Suede, where does 2025 rank?

Right up there. Somewhere between 2024 and 2026.

What have been the highlights of the year for you?

The South Bank takeover gigs in September were great – playing those new songs live for the first time was special.

I particularly enjoyed the Clore Ballroom show where we just did post-reformation stuff.

I thought that was an exciting and fairly unique thing to do for a band of our generation.

Also, I just love the South Bank. Walking over the footbridge from Embankment tube and looking at the skyline always gives me a sense of awe, a feeling of London being this big, beautiful, living thing.

Which of the new songs have you enjoyed singing live the most?

June Rain has a nice dynamic and slow sense of build which works great live. Plus the first half is spoken-word so I get to sit down a bit.

I personally think the album’s opening song Disintegrate should be the Christmas No.1 . . . do you agree?

Ha! Yes, love it. A kind of resolutely unseasonal Christmas song full of dread and fear.

Which album, aside from Suede’s, has been your favourite this year and why?

I liked Sprints’ All That Is Over. It was sharp and shouty and brainy and brash. (Sprints are an Irish garage punk band).

You told me that Suede are “the anti-nostalgia band”. What keeps you facing forwards rather than reflecting on the past (unlike some of your peers)?

Hmmm, huge question. I’ve always thought the point of any artist was to create rather than to repeat and consolidate.

That search for the next great song, the next great album, the next great moment has always been the carrot I’ve chased.

I come from a fiscally poor but culturally rich family background. My mum was an artist and a dressmaker and my dad was a classical music-obsessed taxi driver who made our furniture.

When I was a kid, we didn’t have any money, so if you wanted something you made it yourself.

I’m much less interested in what I wrote 30 years ago than in what I’m going to write next.

Have you started work on the third album of Suede’s “black and white” trilogy, following Autofiction and Antidepressants?

Yes, we’ve written a handful of songs already. I want it to be harder and more extreme than Antidepressants, a relentless onslaught, incessant and uncompromising and very rhythmic.

I already have a title which I’m keeping secret.

You also spoke to me of the importance of family relationships. Does that mean Christmas is a special time for you?

My family and my band are of course so, so important to me and in many ways they feed into each other. It’s hard to write about family without coming across as schmaltzy but luckily I can find the cloud in any silver lining.

Among my favourite songs I’ve ever written are Life Is Golden and She Still Leads Me On which have both been inspired by fatherhood and family.

And yes, Christmas is especially great when you have kids.

Happily though, now my son is older, there’s less pressure for me to dress up in a Santa suit.

What are your hopes for 2026 – for you, your family, the band, and for humankind?

For the band to write a great follow-up to Antidepressants and for humankind to stop scrolling. My hope for myself is always the same – to be a good husband and father.

2. ROSALIA

Lux

THE Spanish star known for her reinvention of ­folk and flamenco turned her attention to more bombastic, classical genres on this fourth album.

Backed by the London Symphony Orchestra it was a lavish production sung in a variety of languages. Bonkers but brilliant. JS 

People Watching

WITH its widescreen ambition, driving intensity and visceral lyrics, songs about “the human experience” couldn’t fail to draw comparisons with Fender’s “biggest hero”, Bruce Springsteen.

But it also marked the Geordie’s coming of age as a major artist in his own right. SC 

4. ROBERT PLANT with SUZI DIAN

Saving Grace

FOR six years, Led Zeppelin legend Plant has surrounded himself with acoustic musicians who live near his Worcestershire home, singer Dian among them.

Together, they gave us a ravishing mix of trad and contemporary covers. Rarely has he sounded so sublime. SC 

5. BIFFY CLYRO 

Futique 

A REFLECTIVE album shaped by friendship, family and loss, it captured Biffy Clyro at their most emotionally open.

Goodbye explored mental health, while A Thousand And One and Two People In Love delivered some of the most moving moments. JS 

6. MARGO PRICE 

Hard Headed Woman

FURTHER proof that Price tells it like it is. This was a stirring return to her country roots, following the trippy rock textures of Strays.

It drew comparisons with her beloved debut, Midwest Farmer’s Daughter, but was inspired by another decade of life experience. SC 

7. TURNSTILE

Never Enough

THIS fourth album from the hardcore punks from Baltimore, known for their energetic live shows, crossed into the mainstream.

The title track had a catchy chorus and melodic guitar breaks while at its heart there was still an uncompromising mandate to rock out. JS 

8. THE DIVINE COMEDY

Rainy Sunday Afternoon

WE’VE long been intrigued by Neil Hannon – not just because he once wrote a song called Something For The Weekend.

These 11 tracks assumed a reflective tone, with love and loss prominent themes, and featured some of Hannon’s most sumptuous tunes. SC 

9. YUNGBLUD

Idols

THIS album sees Yungblud questioning hero worship and identity after a life-changing encounter with a fan.

Inspired by Britpop, it’s his most confident work yet, opening with a nine-minute rock opera and driven by limitless self-belief and ambition. JS 

10. LADY GAGA

Mayhem 

GAGA proved why we loved her in the first place, returning to her dance-pop roots.

She recalled the vibe of her 2008 debut The Fame yet delivered an album for the here and now.

It was marked out by strong singles Abracadabra and Disease. SC 

11. GEESE

Getting Killed

THIS was a case of do believe the hype. With mesmerising singer Cameron Winter at the helm, Brooklyn’s indie rock saviours might channel The Strokes, The Stones, or even Nirvana, but they’re too weird and original to be slaves to their influences.

On the brink of greatness. SC 

12. JACOB ALON

In Limerence

FEW debuts arrived so perfectly formed as this one featuring the tender storytelling of Scottish singer Alon.

With an impossibly pure voice which sat somewhere between Bon Iver and Thom Yorke, it was full of fragile hope.

Vulnerable and haunting ambient soundscapes. JS 

13. PULP

More

JARVIS and Co’s first album in 24 years was dedicated to dear departed bassist Steve Mackey – and it summoned the old mischief. “I am not ageing.

No, I’m just ripening,” cried the singer on Grown Ups, a song filled with lyrical twists and turns. SC 

14. CMAT

Euro-Country

WITH songs about Teslas and Jamie Oliver, there was a quirky, kitsch element to Ciara Mary-Alice Thompson’s third album.

It also plumbed deeper depths of emotional pain but was allied to soft pop melodies.

Issues tackled included social media and objectification. JS 

15. MATT BERNINGER

Get Sunk

TALL, elegant, blessed with a sumptuous baritone, The National’s frontman and lyricist is an, er, National treasure.

But he managed to save wonderfully evocative songs for his second solo outing, including the intoxicating ebb and flow of opener Inland Ocean. SC 

16. DAVE

The Boy Who Played The Harp

HIS first album in four years found Dave drawing on the power of his biblical namesake King David to explore vulnerability and masculinity.

With James Blake’s ghostly production on Selfish and Chapter 16 (ft. Kano), it struck a reflective mood. JS 

17. JASON ISBELL

Foxes In The Snow

THE Alabama-born artist recorded his latest offering without his ace band, the 400 Unit, but with an old acoustic guitar for company.

“This is the first time I’ve done an album with just me and a guitar,” he told SFTW of the exquisite, stripped-back song cycle. SC  

18. BILLY NOMATES 

Metalhorse 

METALHORSE emerged from a personal, tumultuous period for Tor Maries.

A loose concept album set in a dilapidated funfair it featured radio hit The Test, while Strange Gift offered hope.

Closing song Moon Explodes was especially moving, written after Maries’ MS diagnosis. JS 

19. BIG THIEF

Double Infinity

FEW vocalists could handle the word “incomprehensible” like Adrianne Lenker on this LP’s fuzzy joy of an opening track.

Though the indie darlings have contracted to a three piece, there was nothing shrinking about their fearless, exilharating sonic adventure .SC  

20. OLIVIA DEAN

The Art Of Loving

MELLOW and sumptuous, the second album from the stylish Londoner was smooth soul to relax into.

Tracks such as Nice To Each Other and Lady Lady were warm and all-enveloping, exploring affairs of the heart with a particular emphasis on self-care. JS 

21. LILY ALLEN

West End Girl

LILY’S fifth album, the first in seven years, was also her most vulnerable and intensely personal.

It came after her split from actor husband David Harbour and the songs laid it all out in heartbreakingly painful detail.

Infidelity and betrayal were constant themes. JS 

22. BON IVER

Sable, Fable

DIVIDED into two distinct halves, the first was an understated return to the folky stylings of Justin Vernon’s wintery debut album, For Emma, Forever Ago.

The second blossomed into more upbeat territory, primed for glorious spring sunshine. SC  

23. THE WATERBOYS

Life, Death And Dennis Hopper

MIKE Scott took us on a wild ride with this 25-track album celebrating “one of the great American lives”, actor and hellraiser Dennis Hopper.

He summoned a blizzard of musical styles and included cameos from Bruce Springsteen, Steve Earle and Fiona Apple. SC  

24. AFRICA EXPRESS 

Bahidora 

EVEN before Blur completed their reunion gigs, Damon Albarn headed to the Mexican jungle with a dizzying array of 70-plus artists from four continents.

The result? A thrilling mash-up of African rhythms, electronic textures, Latin soul, rock, hip hop – everything! SC  

25. MAVIS STAPLES

Sad And Beautiful World

SHE bears one of the greatest living voices . . .  and it remained in towering form.

Well into her Eighties, Staples tackled our uncertain world with unerring compassion.

Guests included Buddy Guy, Bonnie Raitt, Wilco’s Jeff Tweedy and Bon Iver’s Justin Vernon. SC  

26. BRANDI CARLILE

Returning To Myself 

THIS record found Brandi in an introspective, stripped-back mood after a landmark year.

Working with Aaron Dessner, Andrew Watt and Justin Vernon, the album reconnected her with loneliness, self-belief and politics, from the reflective title track to the powerful Church & State. JS  

27. WOLF ALICE

The Clearing

THE fourth album from the Brit award winners was a grandiose affair, a bold and confident leap forward.

Tracks like Bloom Baby Bloom incorporated all their strengths with bombastic choruses and lush melodies, showcasing Ellie Rowsell’s exceptional rock vocal range. JS 

28. STEREOLAB

Instant Holograms On Metal Film

A STRONG return after 15 years from the much-loved Anglo-French combo.

Led, as ever, by Tim Gane and Laetitia Sadier, the album revisited their distinctive blend of art-pop and motorik beats, really hitting the mark on the effervescent Electrified Teenybop! SC  

29. RICHARD ASHCROFT

Lovin’ You

ASHCROFT’S first album of new music since 2018 arrived after he supported Oasis on tour.

From the Joan Armatrading-sampled Lover to the title track, which sampled Mason Williams’ 1968 Classical Gas, it was a vocally focused, emotionally wide record. JS 

30. WET LEG

Moisturizer

MORPHING from duo to fully-fledged band, the follow-up to their debut album was still as oddball as ever, but it came with a tighter focus.

Tracks like Davina McCall and Jennifer’s Body were heartfelt, kooky love songs backed by ragged, punky basslines. JS  

31. SOMBR

I Barely Know Her

A SPECIAL debut full of heartbreak from the bedroom pop star who quit school to make music.

His melancholy voice accompanied by his own guitar, bass and keyboards and drums, made this magical, with Dime and disco-tinged 12 To 12 emerging as standouts. JS 

32. MOLLY TUTTLE

So Long Little Miss Sunshine

THE Grammy-winning singer forged her reputation at the forefront of the bluegrass revival.

Now she has spread her wings with this ravishing work of myriad styles. It also provided her with the confidence to be open about her alopecia. SC  

33. TOM GRENNAN

Everywhere I Went, Led Me To Where I Didn’t Want To Be

THE down-to-earth singer from Bedford laid his feelings bare on this reflective fourth album shaped by growth, friendship and vulnerability.

It balanced anthemic pop with emotional depth, from Shadowboxing to Boys Don’t Cry. JS 

34. TAYLOR SWIFT

The Life Of A Showgirl

RECORDED in stolen moments during the record-shattering Eras tour, it found Swift reflecting on love and life in the spotlight after falling for NFL star Travis Kelce.

Working with Max Martin and Shellback, it was polished, theatrical pop with self-aware glamour and emotional insight. JS 

35. JOHN FOGERTY

Legacy: The Creedence Clearwater Revival Years

FOGERTY celebrated the recent end of his decades-long fight to get his publishing rights back.

It meant he could belt out timeless hits Proud Mary, Born On The Bayou, Bad Moon Rising and Up Around The Bend with unbridled joy rather than lingering bitterness. SC  

36. MIDLAKE

A Bridge To Far

BEST remembered for their second record, 2006’s The Trials Of Van Occupanther, these enduring Texans rekindled their love of melody-rich folk rock. Two decades on, A Bridge To Far might just have been their best since that hallowed album. SC 

37. TATE MCRAE

So Close To What

THE Canadian singer’s third album was slick and polished futuristic pop and highlighted her journey from teenage dancer to arena-selling pop princess.

Tracks like Purple Lace Bra were multilayered with beats, synths and strings, and created a sultry, sizzling mood. JS 

38. BEIRUT

A Study Of Losses

FOLLOWING Zach Condon’s sortie to the Arctic Circle for 2023’s exquisite Hadsel came this work of unerring beauty.

The 11 songs and seven instrumentals, spanning nearly an hour, struck a melancholy tone but they left a lasting and profound impression. SC 

39. ALISON KRAUSS & UNION STATION

Arcadia

TO Robert Plant’s duet pal Krauss, her latest project was “like stepping into an old pair of shoes”.

Her first album with her virtuoso bluegrass band since 2011 evoked bygone times, while still connecting with 21st Century listeners. SC

40. TOM SMITH

There Is Nothing In The Dark That Isn’t There In The Light

AFTER 20 years fronting Editors and two records with Andy Burrows, Tom Smith stepped out on his own.

His first solo album stripped everything back to the core of his songwriting, capturing the honesty, anxiety and hope that shaped this new chapter. JS 

41. FKA TWIGS 

Eusexua 

THE album title was a made-up word taken from euphoria and sexual to describe “a feeling so intense it transcended the human form”. 

And it lived up to its name.

On the arty, left field side of electronica, this third record was her most complete and satisfying. JS 

42. THE DELINES

Mr Luck & Ms Doom

WHEN ex-Richmond Fontaine frontman Willy Vlautin (lyricist/guitarist in this band) is involved, you tend to get songs with disturbing narratives about people from the wrong side of the tracks.

This firmly ticked that box – and then there was Amy Boone’s enriching, expressive vocals. SC 

43. DAVID BYRNE

Who Is The Sky?

THE world may be going to hell in a handcart, but at least Talking Heads legend Byrne kept a smile on his face.

That was the vibe you get from his latest effort, most notably on rousing opening track Everybody Laughs, which came with a cameo from longtime collaborator St Vincent. SC 

44. BLOOD ORANGE

Essex Honey

ECLECTIC and imbued with an aching sense of loss and nostalgia, Dev Hynes’ fifth album as Blood Orange was an exploration of his upbringing in London.

A collection of memories recalled through spindly indie, jazz, chunky beats and evocative soundscapes. JS 

45. DAMIANO DAVID

Funny Little Fears

FOR Maneskin’s Damiano David, this felt the right moment for a solo album, revealing a more personal, previously hidden side.

It was less rocky than Maneskin, confronting fear and identity through piano-led pop inspired by Keane, The Killers, and Elton John. JS 

46. RON SEXSMITH

Hangover Terrace

THE Canadian has assembled a fine body of work, marked out by sumptuous melodies and perceptive lyrics.

He returned with one of his strongest collections.

Recorded in London, the album visited his childhood, his current concerns and much more in between. SC 

47. MY MORNING JACKET

Is

SINGER Jim James hoped the band’s genre-hopping tenth album would help people “navigate the chaos in the world”. 

If the overall vibe was psychedelic rock with plenty of reverb, MMJ employed elements of pop, country, soul, reggae, you name it. SC 

48. ETHEL CAIN

Willoughby Tucker, I’ll Always Love You

FEW artists have been able to express the intimate, sometimes painful, feelings about first love as well as the singer from Florida.

Evoking a haunting, Southern gothic atmosphere, her ambient rock sound-scapes framed a raw, heartfelt song cycle. SC 

49. CAR SEAT HEADREST

The Scholars

THE career trajectory of Will Toledo is nothing short of breathtaking.

He started out making lo-fi DIY albums in his parents’ car and now, as frontman of a fully fledged band, he made this crazily ambitious rock opera in the vein of Tommy or Ziggy Stardust. SC 

50. ADDISON RAE

Addison

THE debut album from the former TikTok star, who rose to popularity with her dance videos, broke the code.

Stepping confidently beyond influencer fame, she moved into sleek, self-aware pop.

Playful hooks and glossy production balanced vulnerability and attitude. JS 

This lesser-known village features in All Creatures Great and Small, which is set in the 1930s Yorkshire Dales, and offers a ‘true taste of rural England’ with cobbled market squares and beautiful walks

All Creatures Great and Small captivated viewers when it debuted on our screens in 2020, with its delightful period Northern England backdrop – and it transpires the historic town is nearer than you might imagine.

Envision cobblestone market squares, quaint cottage-style shops, and panoramic vistas of the Yorkshire Dales. This perfectly describes Grassington, both in reality and on television. The village provides a charming shopping experience featuring handicrafts, art exhibitions and regional products all curated by independent artisans, plus welcoming establishments for refreshments. Among these establishments is The Hutch Handmade Gift Shop, adored by residents and highly rated amongst Grassington’s attractions.

A visitor described the shop as a “gorgeous spot”, noting on TripAdvisor: “A treasure trove of handmade gifts. Lots of colourful, unique, one-off gifts made by small independent artists, designers and crafters…mostly from Yorkshire.” Another popular attraction that attracts numerous visitors is Grassington Folk Museum. It showcases a fascinating collection of historical artefacts unearthed locally, transporting visitors through time via medical equipment, vintage garments, household objects, geological samples and agricultural keepsakes.

Many regard it as a “lovely museum”, with one recent visitor saying: “We stopped by on a whim and were so glad we did! Lovely collection of items, and the delightful volunteer in the museum was so friendly and knowledgeable! I wish I had gotten her name. Well worth a visit.”

The settlement provides a “true taste of rural England”, which is precisely why it served as the perfect backdrop for a popular television programme. The plot centres around three veterinarians operating in the Yorkshire Dales during the 1930s and draws inspiration from novels penned by writer Alf Wight.

The village serves as an excellent base for outdoor enthusiasts eager to discover the surrounding countryside. Numerous walking and cycling trails await exploration, including a brief circular route connecting Grassington with neighbouring Dales settlement Hebden. Another pathway offers a seven-mile return journey from Kettewell to Grassington.

Home to approximately 1,000 residents, this peaceful location provides genuine serenity. Nowhere captures this tranquil atmosphere better than the town’s Linton Falls, where the River Wharfe tumbles dramatically over spectacular limestone formations. The area’s natural splendour attracts countless visitors. One recent reviewer said: “This place is magnificent! Standing on the bridge as the water thunders beneath is breathtaking. We were even able to have a little paddle upstream.” For those yearning for more natural beauty, Widdop Reservoir is equally stunning and provides a tranquil atmosphere throughout the year. The secluded moorland presents a delightful walk that spans approximately three miles around the reservoir.

Death in Paradise star Don Gilet has opened up on returning to the BBC drama for the Christmas special

Death in Paradise star Don Gilet has expressed his delight at reprising his role, admitting “It was great to come back”.

The actor, 58, joined the BBC drama as DI Mervin Wilson last year, following in the footsteps of previous stars such as Ben Miller and Ralf Little.

Now, he’s eagerly awaiting the 2025 Christmas special and shared his feelings about returning to the role, confessing it was “slightly daunting”.

“It felt good. Slightly daunting, but in a positive sense because you want to do the same again, if not better,” he revealed in a BBC interview ahead of his return. “I jokingly describe it as the second album, the first album went really well, but you can’t rest on your laurels and be complacent, there’s still more audience out there to win over.”

He continued: “So, I went out to Guadeloupe with a renewed appetite. It was great to come back and reconnect with the characters and the actors,” reports the Express.

Discussing what fans can expect from the festive special, Don promised “plenty of humour, but even more heart”.

He elaborated: “It pushes and pulls emotionally and comedically in equal measure. Mervin faces far more antagonism, and things are a lot more challenging for him, especially now he knows there’s a half-brother out there to find.

“But you can still get cosy, sip your Baileys and enjoy another great Death in Paradise Christmas special,” he added.

The forthcoming special presents one of the team’s most perplexing cases yet, as a victim is found dead in a swimming pool on Saint Marie, whilst the murder weapon was locked away in a drawer back in England at the time of the killing, leaving detectives completely stumped.

This comes as Don recently spoke candidly about the “pressure” of filling the boots of previous stars as the latest detective on the show.

During his stint on BBC The One Show on Monday (December 16) evening, he confessed to Alex and co-host Roman Kemp: “I feel the pressure doing this. I’ve said this before, it feels like the second album, you know the first one went well, I was the replacement like a replacement Doctor Who and people have their favourites prior to that.

“So there’s always this sense of ‘well is he going to be as good as…’ are people going to switch off, but luckily no one has switched off yet but you’ve got to come back and do it again and better so I’m not resting on my laurels.

“I do feel a bit pressure but it’s an enjoyable pressure. I love coming back and doing more of the same but with something a bit extra.”

Death In Paradise Christmas special airs on BBC One on Sunday, December 28 at 8.30pm.

Amsterdam’s iconic Christmas market serves glühwein, raclette and festive treats just one hour from the UK – it needs to be on your radar this winter.

There’s only so much time to soak up the Christmas spirit before the big day, and despite work and life becoming more hectic than usual, I managed to swap the hustle and bustle of London for Amsterdam. It was my first trip back to the Dutch capital in a decade, with my arrival coinciding with the start of one of the city’s most iconic Christmas markets, reports the Express.

Christmas markets in the UK can be hit or miss, and I must admit, the ones I’ve visited over the years have never quite matched those on the continent. The first time I realised our markets didn’t measure up was just a few years ago when I visited Vienna, which can only be described as Christmas on steroids.

The largest Christmas market in Amsterdam springs up in the shadow of the Rijksmuseum on Museumplein, where you can blend the festive spirit with a visit to some of the city’s most renowned museums and galleries.

We arrived on its opening day, and even though we visited in the evening, we managed to dodge the wall-to-wall crowds. This was something I never experienced in Vienna, and on this occasion, I was extremely grateful for it.

Entry to the market is free, but you’ll have to fork out €16 for the joy of skating on its ice rink. Much like other European markets, Amsterdam’s was adorned with wooden chalets offering everything from knick-knacks to treats, piping hot cups of glühwein and food from all around the world.

There was even a cabin flying the Union Jack selling fudge. Who would have thought that British fudge was such a hit overseas?

No visit to a Christmas market would be complete without trying some of the local specialities. A Dutch wurst is a robust cured pork sausage typically served with stamppot, a blend of mashed potatoes and kale. However, it seemed we had arrived too late. No wursts for us.

So we settled for the next best thing: barbeque jumbo sausages served on toasted slices of bread with pickled onions and gherkins, topped with crispy onions and mayo. This isn’t your average sausage sandwich. Trying to tackle every bite is a mouthful, overflowing with chunks of smoky sausage and crumbly onions.

It was evidently a popular choice, with crowds gathering around the open flame grill right in the heart of the action, with sausages sizzling and emitting a tantalising aroma. A barbeque might not be what you expect in the depths of winter, but blimey, was it needed.

Sadly, the warmth emanating from the grill wasn’t enough to heat our bones while we waited, so two cups of glühwein were called for. Glühwein is traditional German mulled wine, delicately spiced with cinnamon, cloves, star anise.

I’m not entirely certain what the secret is, but somehow the Germans manage to perfectly balance the red wine and spices in a way that all the mulled wine I’ve sampled at UK Christmas markets always seem far too acidic. Glühwein is the ideal beverage to warm you to your core, particularly in a freezing city in December, even if the city is renowned for its beer.

When our sausages finally turned up, they were heaped with pickled onions and gherkins. Much like a Scandi open sandwich, it was bursting with diverse flavours, so unlike any festive fare you’d find back home.

You received an entire jumbo sausage on one slice of bread, quartered to actually fit into your mouth. The smoky pork was wonderfully offset by the sharp tang from the pickles, with a different texture provided by crispy onions. This isn’t your typical Christmas market grub, but it was delightful to sample some local specialities.

However, no Christmas is complete without a generous helping of cheese. A classic choice at European Christmas markets is bubbling, ooey, gooey raclette.

We opted for the traditional pairing of raclette and potatoes. What could be more perfect? The humble new potato smothered in smoky melted cheese.

The cheesy spuds were served with some more crispy onions and a fresh coleslaw. Now this is what Christmas is truly about. I would devour a bucketful of raclette if they’d offered one.

Sausages, glühwein and raclette: the holy trinity of Christmas market food.

Even though it was late at night and the crowds were thinning, there was still a buzz among the youngsters and families huddled around the electric heaters trying to stay warm, sipping from steaming cups, welcoming the festive season. Compared to Vienna, Amsterdam’s markets offer a more tranquil start to the Christmas season.

Is this the best Christmas market I’ve ever visited? Probably not, but I’m always fascinated to see how other countries embrace the festive season.

Amsterdam is one of those cities where you can spend hours just wandering around, and we certainly did plenty of that. You can meander from spot to spot with ease, particularly if navigating foreign public transport baffles you. That being said, Amsterdam’s public transport runs like clockwork.

From the moment you step out of Amsterdam Centraal, you can sense the Christmas spirit in the air. I returned to the city for the first time in ten years, and up until this point, I hadn’t felt all that festive.

Amsterdam served as a stepping stone into Christmas for me before I head back to Vienna again for round two of Christmas on steroids. If there’s anywhere you should flee to in December, it’s Amsterdam. It’s only a train journey away.

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