Game of Thrones

ON hearing that I was going to Malta, my grandfather insisted I check out a street in Valletta affectionately known as “The Gut”.

A quick Google search revealed that this “historically notorious” alleyway used to be the city’s premier red-light and entertainment district for British and American servicemen.

Given that Grandad was in Malta during his Navy days in the 1950s, I dread to imagine what he had in mind when suggesting I go there above anywhere else in the country.

Nevertheless, I’m glad I followed his advice because, in the 70-odd years since, it has cleaned up its act.

Located at the opening of The Gut at the time of my visit, (but now in St George’s Square) was Fifty Nine Republic, a restaurant that has featured in the Michelin Guide five years in a row.

Its head chef, Maria Sammut, is one of Malta’s greatest culinary assets — named “Best Maltese Chef” in recent years — and serves some of the finest fare in Valletta.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

Her prawn tacos perfectly showcase the best of Maltese seafood — giant, juicy prawns fried in a satisfyingly crispy batter, with bright and delicate pickles elevating each mouthful — which you can enjoy in the sun of St George’s Square, opposite the opulence of the Grandmaster’s Palace.

Something I doubt my grandad did too often on his nights in the city.

It was a well-earned meal, too, after a morning spent getting to know Malta’s more adventurous side.

While the stereotypical image of a tourist in Malta may be that of an older person seeking some relaxing winter sun, there is plenty in the way of activities for holidaymakers with a penchant for getting the adrenaline pumping.

I am typically not that type of person, which I realised as I found myself dangling from a cliff face with little more than a bungee cord and a metal hook for safety, doing something called via ferrata.

It involves scrambling along precarious ledges, using fixed steel cables to ensure anyone who falls is just about kept alive.

So, instead of doing the crossword with a cuppa — my normal morning routine — I had to rely on my minimal upper body strength and uncharacteristically delicate footwork to take me from the bottom of a sheer cliff face right to the top.

As a man who struggles with vertigo, this didn’t come easily, but the impressive landscapes — rugged cliff tops and lush greenery stretching out until they met the shimmering blue sea on the horizon — made it more than worthwhile.

What’s more, I was surprised at how quickly I started to enjoy myself.

The combination of warm weather, pushing 20C in February, spectacular scenery and trying something exciting put a spring in my step — ironically, the last thing I needed as I clambered up to the summit.

Delighted to have survived, I tested my resilience further — horse riding through the countryside of Bidnija village.

Yet this turned out to be an altogether more peaceful affair, as my steed — the majestic Romeo — begrudgingly bore me on his back and clip-clopped through some tranquil and verdant scenes.

Aloe plants rose out of the ground, looking like large desert cacti, making me feel like I was in my own John Wayne movie.

I even tipped the brim of my hat to passers-by as I rode towards the sunset, thoroughly enjoying an activity I would never before have thought to try.

The same thing happened on repeat throughout my visit.

Whether it was e-bike riding along the Dingli Cliffs — the highest point on the island, with vistas stretching for miles over sapphire seas — or abseiling on Gozo, the second-largest island in the Maltese archipelago, my perceptions about what I enjoy doing were constantly being challenged.

That’s not to say I didn’t make the most of a chance to relax in the warmth, while thick grey clouds at home were refusing to let any sunlight through.

Staying at the Marriott Resort & Spa meant I could unwind after my exertions and, come early evening, I could be found on a sunbed by the outdoor pool on the 13th floor, overlooking St Julian’s Bay.

The hotel also has an indoor pool, a gym better equipped than most actual gyms, and a spa offering a range of treatments and massages, including couples’ options.

After a wind-down by the pool, evenings were spent exploring the extensive selection of bars and restaurants.

Although I couldn’t try all the highly recommended eateries, I was particularly impressed by Trattoria AD 1530.

This charming Michelin Guide restaurant is located in the fortified medieval town of Mdina, which Game Of Thrones fans will recognise as King’s Landing from series one.

It perfectly showcases the Italian influence on Maltese cuisine, with its seafood pastas particularly worth a taste.

Then there was Sole by Tarragon, which offers beautiful harbour views, locally-caught seafood and Mediterranean classics.

My advice — order the sea bass, one of their nautical-themed cocktails and the caramel and banana dessert.

I’ll just have to go back and try all the ones I missed another time. I’ll see if my grandad has any more hot tips.