forget

ORANGE COUNTY VOICES : Wilson Had Better Not Forget the Right : Politics: The senator has some reassuring to do with conservatives. To become governor, he has to count on every conservative vote in Orange County–and he isn’t guaranteed them.

Notwithstanding the California Republican party’s well-intentioned anointment of Sen. Pete Wilson as its gubernatorial nominee, it is no secret that he continues to have an uncomfortable relationship with the conservative wing that dominates it.

As we move closer toward the general election, conservatives across the state, and particularly in vote-rich Orange County, are now asking the question, “What would a Gov. Wilson offer to conservatives?” Some have already answered that question, and for them, the answer is: not much.

This could spell disaster in November, especially if the slickly packaged former mayor of San Francisco, Dianne Feinstein, wins the Democratic Party nomination over liberal Establishment candidate Atty. Gen. John K. Van de Kamp.

Last March, the California Republican Assembly, the largest volunteer, grass-roots Republican organization in the state, adopted a vote of no-confidence in the senator. Pro-life and pro-family organizations–an integral part of winning Republican coalitions–are openly hostile to his candidacy. The conservative Young Americans for Freedom has already gone on record against him. In a futile but symbolic gesture, YAF even put up one of its own, Jeff Greene, to challenge the senator in the June primary.

So far, these are but chinks in the formidable Wilson campaign armor. Though most state conservative leaders are publicly backing Wilson, many are clearly wondering what happened to the Reagan Revolution in California. How is it that the one-time, anti-Reagan moderate mayor from San Diego might now become head of the party in the very state that produced “The Gipper”? (This frustration explains, in part, the enthusiasm among conservatives for the “renegade” primary campaign of “charter” Reaganite Bay Buchanan for state treasurer against the incumbent, Tom Hayes, who was appointed by Gov. George Deukmejian.)

Conservative Republicans have always been suspicious of the “progressive” mayor of San Diego. To begin with, they have never quite forgiven then-Mayor Wilson for campaigning for President Ford against favorite son Ronald Reagan in the 1976 New Hampshire presidential primary. These suspicions contributed to Wilson coming in a poor fourth in the Republican primary for governor two years later. By 1982 he learned a lesson. He then campaigned in the U.S. Senate Republican primary against several Ronald Reagan conservatives, including Rep. Barry Goldwater Jr. and Robert K. Dornan. While Goldwater was preoccupied with trading off his father’s name and latecomer Dornan was in search of campaign funds, Wilson preemptively blitzed the airwaves with commercials tightly wrapping himself around support for President Reagan. Fellow candidate and “first daughter” Maureen Reagan was particularly galled. So were others. But it worked, and Wilson won what was clearly the make-or-break election of his statewide political future.

Once in the Senate, Pete Wilson went on to very smartly, and sincerely, carry the banner of many issues important to conservatives. From his berth on the Senate Armed Services Committee he defended the Reagan military buildup, railed against the Soviet threat and became an ardent spokesman for the Strategic Defense Initiative. He helped protect California’s defense industry, the Long Beach Naval Shipyard and even got Mayor Feinstein to support home-porting the nuclear-powered battleship Missouri in liberal San Francisco. Wilson strongly backed the freedom fighters in Nicaragua and Afghanistan and was up front in his defense of Oliver L. North.

Occasionally, but never reliably, Wilson has voted with conservatives on key social and family-oriented issues. For these things and more, Wilson avoided a primary challenge from the right and deservedly received virtually unqualified conservative support for his 1988 reelection.

The problem now facing gubernatorial candidate Pete Wilson is that those defense and foreign policy issues so essential to his overall appeal to conservatives are no longer available to balance out his generally moderate-to-liberal campaign positions on many social, domestic and environmental issues. Unfortunately, the messages from his campaign and the press seem only to highlight the pro-abortion, pro-homosexual, anti-prayer in school, anti-growth, higher transportation taxes, costly mass transit, and other big-government elements of his platform (including the creation of another costly government Cabinet department to deal with the environment).

As a result, his yeoman efforts on behalf of the speedy-trial initiative seem pale. To many conservatives, the Pete Wilson of 1990 sounds a lot like the Pete Wilson of 1978.

Unlike Sen. Wilson’s 1982 race against Jerry Brown or his 1988 reelection against Leo T. McCarthy, this year every conservative vote will matter–a lot. So, too, will the crossover votes of conservative Democrats who today keep many Republicans in office. We cannot afford to have any one of them sit at home or cast a protest vote for a third-party candidate.

What is of added danger to Wilson is that conservative Democrats are being told that Feinstein is a candidate they can finally support. Who’s kidding whom? A conservative Democrat mayor from San Francisco is about as believable as Dana Rohrabacher being appointed head of the National Endowment for the Arts. Yet the liberal Southern California media persist in mislabeling the Lady from Babylon by the Bay largely because of her “traitorous” support for the death penalty. Look for a finely tuned “come home” message from the Feinstein campaign to conservative Democrats in November.

When the media are not calling her a conservative, they frequently remark that on substantive issues there is little difference between Feinstein and Wilson. Strike another blow to a proven Republican campaign axiom: Fail to differentiate yourself from your Democrat opponent and you lose.

Wilson’s recent campaign commercials do not help. He emphasizes his environmental record, support for mass transit and the need to control those nasty developers. At best it seems an ill-timed ad for the primary season. At worst it emphasizes management, not leadership, and is not conservative on either count. Better he should first shore up his traditional Republican credentials.

The senator should probably not count on the evils of a Democratic-controlled reapportionment process to give him an added loyalty boost, either. Voters have shown either an inability to understand the issue or often view it in partisan terms. But if a state commission on reapportionment is created by the voters on June 5, the argument that a Republican governor is needed to keep the Democrat Legislature honest will be moot.

Finally, the precedent exists for an electorally significant percentage of the conservative vote to be cast in protest for a third-party candidate. That occurred in the Zschau-Cranston race. Despite a strong Republican Party sales effort aimed at ensuring conservative backing for the former moderate Rep. Ed Zschau, including four trips to California by President Reagan (two in Orange County alone), the word went out to the fall-on-your-sword conservatives to cast a protest vote for the pro-life American Independent Party candidate Ed Vallen. Vallen received nearly double the normal statewide and Orange County AIP vote that year (1.5%). Zschau lost to Alan Cranston by only 1.4%. While there are important differences between the seasoned Wilson with proven statewide electability and newcomer Zschau, the point is that a small electoral shift could prove fatal to him in a close race.

Despite what some political pollsters and self-appointed media opinion makers would have us believe, the successful Reagan electoral coalition has not dispersed. Nor have their beliefs in traditional family values, small government, low taxes, free enterprise and equal opportunity for that chance at the American dream taken a back seat to child care, global warming and acid rain.

Pete Wilson, known for waging smart, well-financed campaigns, has some reassuring to do on the right. To win in November, he has to count on every conservative vote in Orange County–and it is not clear yet that he is going to get them.

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The European coastline Brits always forget about with Disney-like castle and seafront resorts

THE sun tickles my face as I gaze across the North Sea on a bright April day. 

And I can safely say that this amazing spot on Sweden’s west coast radiates a stillness that could relax even the busiest soul. 

The 240-mile Kattegattleden cycle route runs parallel to the coast, weaving past idyllic farm shops, guesthouses, fishing villages and sandy beaches from Helsingborg Credit: Getty
Varberg and its surrounding towns are a haven for seafood lovers, with Spiseriet — ‘the place to eat’ — living up to its name Credit: Supplied

Varberg, a 40-minute train ride from Gothenburg, is emerging as a proper wellness spot. 

One where holidaymakers come to escape life’s rigours and experience authentic Sweden, without the modern-day malls and restaurant chains that have taken over many major cities across Europe

Here, old-fashioned practices and a fuss-free way of life are still very much the norm — and I couldn’t wait to try them out. 

Throwing myself straight into the action, I head to the town’s Kallbadhuset — which translates as “cold bathhouse” — perched on the sea and reminiscent of a Disney castle.  

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Plunging into the water, I brace myself for the rush of cold — and the brief dip certainly wakes me up.  

Luckily, I can follow it up with a visit to the spectacular sauna, warming my limbs while I soak up the stunning view of the town’s pier. 

Of course, cold plunges are not the only perk of being by the sea.  

Varberg and its surrounding towns in Halland County are a haven for seafood lovers. One of the best places to sample it is Spiseriet.

This sauna with a spectacular view really is hot stuff Credit: Supplied
If you think Ikea’s meatballs are good then these will knock your socks off Credit: Supplied

Translated, it means “the place to eat” — and it certainly does its name justice.

Having worked at a string of Michelin-star restaurants throughout Gothenburg, charismatic host Peter Hallden and chef Martin Anneflod decided to open their own place in the picturesque Johnssons Gard. 

Diners sit in a renovated former stable and choose from a ridiculously fresh menu of classic Swedish grub.  

My Norwegian langoustines, Peter informs me, were in the sea four hours earlier, having been collected from nearby fishing village Traslovslage.

Make sure to try the falafel, too, made from local fava beans and pesto rustled up from local nettles. It is Michelin-star quality, but with a home-cooking feel to it and without the extortionate price tag. 

If you do want to push the boat out, however, then Restaurant Ang by the Astad Vineyard is a great spot to sample Michelin-star dining.  

At just over £100pp, its eight-course tasting breakfast is less eye-watering in price than its dinner and will keep you full for hours.  

Star dishes include waffle with a side of caviar, thick hash brown with fava beans and a breakfast cheesecake. 

Attention to detail is the name of the game here and doses of morning caffeine are served with a difference. Kenyan coffee beans are soaked in local lingonberries for 18 hours before being served as what looks like juice, but tastes like a refreshingly fruity iced coffee. 

After gorging on several hearty courses, I’m properly fuelled for my hiking trip in Steninge, 45 minutes south of Varberg. This area is filled with glorious trails, although Steninge, home to the Steningedalens nature reserve, has some of the best. 

An excellent path winds along the Hallandsleden coast, enabling ramblers to take in sensational views of the sea. Or if you prefer to cycle, stretching parallel to the coastal path is bike trail Kattegattleden.  

The 240-mile route begins in Helsingborg and weaves past idyllic farm shops, guesthouses and fishing villages as well as sandy beaches. 

Along the way is Steninge Kuststation, where I stop for vegetarian Swedish meatballs, mash and local lingonberries. If you think Ikea’s meatballs are good then these will knock your socks off. 

Co-owned by Frida Fernbrant and Martina Gustafsson, the guesthouse is a perfect overnight stop for cyclists — with tastefully decorated old-fashioned rooms, sea views, homely food and an outdoor stage for live music. 

Back at my base, the Varbergs Kusthotell resort helps me properly unwind and rest my weary legs.  

The modern facility sits just 52 steps from the sea, with spa facilities open late so that guests can enjoy an after-dinner swim. 

Three outdoor pools arc around the main spa building, which houses an indoor swimming facility in addition to two luxurious hot tubs. 

As I watch steam from the heated pool rise into the still night air, I can’t help but feel totally at ease. 

Wellness breaks don’t get much better than this.

GO: HALLAND, SWEDEN

GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from Manchester and London Stansted from £30 return. See ryanair.com

STAYING THERE: Double rooms at Varbergs Kusthotell cost from £119 per night, based on two people sharing. See varbergskusthotell.se/en

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Forget Florence: six of the best towns in Tuscany to escape overtourism | Tuscany holidays

First, it was Barcelona, Venice and Dubrovnik. Now, Florence has joined the most overtouristed destinations in the world: its 365,000 inhabitants shared their city last year with 4.6 million visitors. The director of the city’s Accademia gallery – home to Michelangelo’s David – talked in 2024 about “hit and run” tourism, describing visitors “on a quick in-and-out mission to take selfies … trampling the city without contributing anything”. Local author Margherita Calderoni describes Via Camillo Cavour, a street leading to the Duomo, as a “rancid soup” of chain restaurants and “shops selling plastic trinkets from who knows where”.

Although steps are being taken – the city council has introduced a ban on new short-term lets and is promoting sights in lesser-known neighbourhoods – tackling overtourism is a challenge. And other Tuscan cities, such as Siena and San Gimignano, are suffering too. But beyond these honeypots, Italy’s fifth-largest region is full of glories, with not a takeaway chain or selfie stick in sight. Here are six of my favourites.

For architecture: Monteriggioni

To hit Monteriggioni during its medieval festival in July is to be transported to the middle ages: the whole town becomes a stage on which local re-enactors recreate 13th-century life, with artisans, entertainers, soldiers and musicians in the streets, and inns serving ancient recipes. Festival apart, this tiny town is remarkable for its intact architecture. It was built by the Republic of Siena around 1213 to ward off Florentine aggression, and it is still possible to walk around its 570 metres of wall, with two gates and 14 watchtowers. Inside there is a church, a museum and gardens once used to grow food in case of a siege. All cobbled streets and panoramic views, it feels intimate but rarely crowded. On the square, Il Tagliere Medievale is the place to people-watch over cured meats and cheese and a carafe of chianti.
Stay at Il Piccolo Castello, doubles from €115 B&B

For idealists: Pienza

The hilltop town of Pienza. Photograph: Fani Kurti/Getty Images

Is there such a thing as an “ideal city”? In 1459, Pope Pius II rebuilt his birthplace, Corsignano, according to the scientific and humanist criteria architects and planners believed cities should fulfil, with harmoniously proportioned streets, buildings and fortifications. Naturally, he then renamed the town after himself. Pienza is tiny – about 2,000 inhabitants – and best explored on foot. The main square, Piazza Pio II, is a small space shared by the cathedral and the honey-coloured Piccolomini Palace, Pius’s summer residence. The three colonnaded loggias (covered walkways) facing the Piccolomini’s garden suggest the harmony architect Bernardo Rossellino was aiming for. Human harmony is evoked by street names Via dell’Amore and Via del Bacio (kiss): both lead to a walkway with panoramic views over the Val d’Orcia. Foodwise, Pienza is known for its pecorino cheese: try it at La Terrazza del Chiostro, run by young chef Massimiliano Ingino.
Stay at Agriturismo Casalpiano, doubles from €135 B&B

For Renaissance art: Arezzo

The Piazza del Duomo in Arezzo. Photograph: PK Photos/Getty Images

On a hill where eastern Tuscany rises to the Apennines, Arezzo is rich in history and art, but sees a fraction of Florence’s visitors. Many come for the monthly antiques fair on Piazza Grande, the sloping main square. The city’s treasure is the 15th-century artist Piero della Francesca’s Legend of the True Cross frescoes in San Francesco basilica, but I also love his serene Mary Magdalene in the cathedral up the road. From there, it’s a short walk across Passaggio del Prato park to the fortress built by the Medici family in 1540. Its ramparts offer great views over red roofs and rolling countryside. In pedestrianised Via Cavour, three friends recently took over a former corset shop and turned it into a deli selling filled focaccia, wine, chocolates and olive oil.
Stay at La Corte del Re, doubles from 79 room-only

For history: Volterra

A Roman amphitheatre in Volterra. Photograph: Robert Harding/Alamy

Volterra was founded about 3,000 years ago as part of the Etruscan league of 12 cities. Its Guarnacci museum features hundreds of fantastically decorated funerary urns, but they’re outshone for me by an elongated male nude in bronze called Shadow of the Evening which, though believed to have been made in the third century BC, wouldn’t look out of place in a modern sculpture show and is said to have inspired Giacometti. A short walk away, the Porta all’Arco is an Etruscan gate still standing after 2,300 years. More recent monuments include a Roman amphitheatre and a Medici fortress now used as a prison. The town is also known for alabaster carving: check it out at the Ecomuseum, or buy at local cooperative Artieri Alabastro. In a picturesque alley, La Sosta del Priore (Prior’s Pitstop) offers sandwiches with fillings such as wild boar, melted pecorino and lampredotto (tripe).
Stay at Villa Nencini, doubles from 65 B&B

For port city vibes: Livorno

The Quartiere Venezia in Livorno. Photograph: Roberto Nencini/Alamy

Tuscany has so many sights that its ancient port is often overlooked. Originally fortified by the Pisans, Livorno was ruled by Florence’s Medicis from the 1500s, and today’s multicultural vibe is thanks in part to that dynasty. Under Medici law, newcomers of any nationality or faith were encouraged to settle here, and a diverse population – Greeks, Armenians, Jews fleeing the Inquisition – helped Livorno thrive. Today, this politically leftish and greenish city is home to populations from Senegal and Morocco as well as eastern Europe.

Get a lungful of sea air at the checkerboard seaside promenade Terrazza Mascagni, then walk up to the Quartiere Venezia, Livorno’s Little Venice, with bridges, coloured houses and two Medici fortresses, Nuova and Vecchia. Other sights include San Francesco Cathedral and one of Italy’s biggest covered markets, the Parisian-style Vettovaglie. Livorno is known for its chickpea pancakes (torte di ceci), and Torteria Gagarin by the market sells them hot from a wood-fired oven to eat in a roll as a cinque e cinque sandwich.
Stay at Dogana d’Acqua Rooms & Art, doubles from 75 room-only

For coastal charm: Porto Ercole

The harbour at Porto Ercole. Photograph: Stevan ZZ/Getty Images

A port since Roman times, this village on a promontory in the south of Tuscany was fought over in 1555 in a proxy war between Spain (supporting Florence) and France (Siena). Spain won and built the forts that still guard all approaches. Climb up to Forte Stella for views over the picturesque harbour and north to one of three causeways linking the promontory to the mainland. The walk into town passes the botanical garden. Farther north is the unassuming cemetery that is home to Caravaggio’s simple tomb, an odd finale to a life of brawls, murders, arrests and exile. Mystery surrounds the painter’s death, but he was said to be heading for Rome in the hope of papal forgiveness when he succumbed to “fever” – probably infection from a sword fight in Naples.

For a beach day, head out on the SP66 and take the signposted footpath just before the crossroads leading to Forte Stella. Sandy Spiaggia Lunga is mostly undeveloped, but in high summer there’s a bar with sunbeds to hire. Right on the harbour back in Porto Ercole, Grano offers top-quality sourdough pizzas by the slice.
Stay at Alba sul Mare, doubles from 91 room-only



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