forest

Nottingham Forest FA Cup exit: Boss Sean Dyche rages over ‘unacceptable’ first half at Wrexham

Sean Dyche has called for some of his Nottingham Forest players to “have a look in the mirror” after an “unacceptable” first-half performance in their FA Cup loss at Wrexham.

Forest were the first Premier League side in third-round action and the first casualty at the hands of lower league opposition.

Having made eight changes from Tuesday’s Premier League win at West Ham, Dyche watched in fury as his side trailed their Championship opponents 2-0 at the break.

They fought back to make it 3-3 and force extra-time at Stok Cae Ras, but were beaten 4-3 in the penalty shootout after Igor Jesus and Omari Hutchinson had their spot-kicks saved by home keeper Arthur Okonkwo.

“The first half was completely unacceptable,” Dyche told TNT Sports.

“I let the players know and there are certain individuals that certainly know and they have to look in the mirror.

“But the strangeness of football, some players that came on in the second half were a credit and we went on and looked like a Premier League side.

“You can’t do that in the first half, it’s completely unacceptable. It’s unacceptable to me, but I said you have to look in the mirror because that’s unacceptable to the badge as well.

“They all knock on the door and say, ‘why aren’t I playing?’. Well the evidence is quite honestly there for some, not for all.”

While Dyche praised those who came off the bench – including two-goal Callum Hudson-Odoi – for acting as a “catalyst” for their second-half comeback, he continued to berate his side’s efforts in a poor first 45 minutes.

“I could have taken all of them off [at half-time],” he added. “The tempo, the mentality to take the game on was lacking so badly in the first half.

“Slow, methodical, we have done a lot of work on that. There was basically no intent, no real desire to make a difference. Second half, the changes were terrific.

“The facts of the matter are we’ve got to make changes. They showed their hand and won’t be knocking on my door saying, ‘why aren’t I playing?’ again, that’s for sure, that first-half group.”

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Jorgen Strand Larsen: Wolves willing to sell striker amid Nottingham Forest interest

Wolves are open to selling striker Jorgen Strand Larsen this month, amid interest from Nottingham Forest.

The Premier League’s bottom side recognise allowing the 25-year-old to leave may be best for all parties, if the right deal could be found.

That would include a switch to the City Ground, despite Forest being one of the teams also fighting against the drop from the Premier League.

Forest – missing last season’s 20-goal top scorer Chris Wood – are one of several clubs to have looked at Strand Larsen as an option.

Wood, who has been out with a knee injury since October, had surgery just before Christmas, with a comeback date yet to be determined.

West Ham‘s interest in Strand Larsen has cooled after being asked for £40m, and they have bought Valentin Castellanos and Pablo Felipe instead. Newcastle‘s priorities are now elsewhere after they failed with a £55m bid in the summer and signed Nick Woltemade.

Sean Dyche’s Forest are seven points clear of the relegation zone – and 15 above Wolves – after Tuesday’s 2-1 win at West Ham.

Arnaud Kalimuendo, Forest’s £26m summer signing from Rennes, joined Bundesliga club Eintracht Frankfurt on loan with an option to buy on Wednesday, leaving Igor Jesus and Taiwo Awoniyi as the club’s only strikers.

Strand Larsen has been targeted by unhappy Wolves fans this season, having scored just one Premier League goal.

It is part of the reason why Wolves are willing to allow the Norway international to leave, even though he only made his initial loan move from Celta Vigo permanent last July for £23m.

Yet, Strand Larsen is well-respected behind the scenes, where he is seen as a leader. He earned internal credit for the professional way he handled Newcastle‘s interest and bids.

He was rewarded with a five-year contract in September after a promising debut season, scoring 14 goals and helping Wolves finish 16th.

Wolves‘ likely relegation is a factor in Strand Larsen’s future – they only secured their first Premier League win of the season last Saturday, at the 20th attempt, as they beat West Ham 3-0.

Strand Larsen would not be expected to remain at Molineux in the Championship and selling him in January would generate a higher fee than the summer.

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Sean Dyche wants perspective but Nottingham Forest slump a worry after Aston Villa defeat

On the opening weekend of 2025, Forest beat Wolves 3-0 to consolidate their position in the Premier League’s top three.

That was a sixth straight win, something the club had not achieved in the top flight in a single season since 1966-67, and they sat five points ahead of Newcastle in fifth.

Now, it is four straight defeats for the first time since November-December 2023 – a run which ended with Steve Cooper losing his job at the City Ground.

Dyche is already Forest’s third manager of the season and the SOS went to him in October after Ange Postecoglou’s brief and damaging reign.

The former Everton and Burnley boss started well, but the drop-off in organisation, focus and form – especially of late – has been drastic.

At Villa they were undone by simple errors: a collective switch-off to allow Ollie Watkins to open the scoring was followed by John Victor’s ill-advised foray 40 yards from goal which allowed John McGinn to add a killer third goal.

“You can’t give basic errors away to teams like this in the Premier League,” Dyche told BBC Match of the Day.

“The mentality is there, but you can’t keep giving yourself a mountain to climb. Players were switching off to the basics. We have worked on it and shown them, but this is the job. I never expected it to be easy when I got here.”

Until Watkins struck in first-half stoppage time, Forest’s plan was working, even if it was pragmatic in the extreme. Villa had been restricted to one chance – a golden one – when goalkeeper John denied Watkins early.

But Forest fell apart. McGinn scored the first of his two goals in the 49th minute to give high-flying Villa a handy 2-0 cushion.

Although Morgan Gibbs-White’s goal made it 2-1 and briefly gave Forest hope, there was little to suggest they would mount an improbable comeback.

Gibbs-White told Sky Sports: “I feel like we stuck to the gameplan in the first half. There were lots of positives to take. I know we need points, but we showed a work ethic and desire.

“We always know Villa start with a high press. So the key was to absorb that pressure and silence the fans a bit. We were unfortunate to concede right before half-time.”

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Your hiking and camping guide to Angeles National Forest

Los Angeles is a place where essentially anyone can find themselves, especially outdoors lovers.

The hiking trails of Griffith Park offer tremendous views of the city and landscape. Kenneth Hahn State Recreation Area near Culver City features lush spaces to spend a Saturday with family and friends. But for Angelenos seeking adventure — and even solitude — a vast forested expanse awaits.

Angeles National Forest is a 700,000-plus acre wonderland that has long billed itself as L.A.’s “backyard playground.” But it’s so much more than that.

For almost a decade, I’ve hiked much of its 557 miles of trails, and so rarely was it just for exercise. I’ve sought refuge in our San Gabriel Mountains when life got overwhelming, whether it was after my brother died and my soul ached more than I could communicate, or it was just to briefly escape news headlines that kept breaking my heart. But it was also for joy.

Every hike in Angeles National Forest offers us a chance to be awestruck by our natural environment. I’ll never forget the first time I saw a California newt waddling through Millard Canyon falls. I’ve spotted hopping deer, hooting owls and exactly one haughty rattlesnake (as all other rattlers were much calmer — even the one my dog booped).

I’ve felt the temperature shift from cool to crisp on a winter’s day hike in Icehouse Canyon as a cold mist wafted through the trees, and I’ve sweated through my clothes on the exposed hillsides of the Strawberry Peak trail. I’ve made snow angels with my dog near Mt. Waterman and swam in my skivvies in the San Gabriel River.

Years ago, Angeles National Forest supervisor Michael J. Rogers pointed out what anyone who has spent time there knows too well.

“This is a national forest that could very easily be enjoyed and loved to death,” Rogers wrote for The Times on the forest’s 100th anniversary in 1992. “All of the unique values that visitors seek such as cool trees, shaded streams, solitude, beautiful vistas, watchable wildlife, fresh pine-scented air could all be lost through overuse and abuse.”

My intention with this guide falls in line with Rogers’ message: I hope you not only appreciate what the forest has to offer but also understand your responsibility to practice the “leave no trace” principles, leaving only footprints and taking only memories (and selfies).

Adventure awaits in Angeles National Forest. May you find the start and continuation of it in this guide.

Note: To bookmark this page for future use, press Ctrl+D (Windows/Linux) or Cmd+D (Mac).

A quick geography lesson| What to bring | Getting there | Things you should know | Beginner adventures| Intermediate adventures| Advanced adventures

A quick geography lesson

A sweeping view of Angeles Crest Highway.

A sweeping view of Angeles Crest Highway and the San Gabriel Mountains from the Hoyt Mountain trail.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Angeles National Forest is about 700,000 acres of federal land managed by the U.S. Forest Service. Its northern boundary extends through mountain ranges near the 5 Freeway near Gorman, eastward to the L.A. County and San Bernardino County line near Wrightwood. Its southern boundary runs near Castaic Lake southeast and eastward, ending north of Claremont, where the San Bernardino National Forest’s boundary begins.

It is located within a portion of the Sierra Pelona Mountains in the west, and the San Gabriel Mountains, which span about 60 miles from near Newhall to Cajon Canyon northeast of San Bernardino, according to state geology research. Angeles National Forest’s elevation ranges from 1,200 feet to 10,064 feet, its highest point being Mt. San Antonio, or Mt. Baldy as it’s more commonly known.

The original home of several Indigenous communities for thousands of years, the forest grows several species of trees, plants and animals endemic only to the San Gabriel Mountains or California, including the San Gabriel manzanita, the big cone Douglas fir and the endangered mountain yellow-legged frog. An estimated 14%, or about 29,000 acres, of Angeles National Forest is considered “old-growth” forest — white fir, lodgepole pine, Jeffrey pine (which has a bark that smells like butterscotch or vanilla), ponderosa pine and others that have grown for more than a century into hulking giants.

It is home to five wilderness areas: Cucamonga Wilderness; Magic Mountain Wilderness; Pleasant View Ridge Wilderness; San Gabriel Wilderness; and Sheep Mountain Wilderness. Wilderness areas are the “most protected” federal land in the country. Each of these wilderness areas offers something different. For example, when hiking in Cucamonga, you might spot bighorn sheep, while Magic Mountain is occasionally host to a California condor passing through.

layers of mountains covered in evergreen and pine trees

The view of the San Gabriel Mountains as seen from the Mt. Waterman area in the Angeles National Forest.

(Genaro Molina / Los Angeles Times)

What to bring

A full tank or battery. Consider entering the forest with either a full tank of gas or full charge on your vehicle’s battery. There are no gas or electric charging stations (outside of a plug-in you might find on a forest service building).

Sustenance. If hiking, you will likely want to pack all of the water you need for the day unless you plan to filter it from somewhere along the trail. If camping, check the Angeles National Forest website to see whether your campground offers drinking water. You will also want to bring all of your food, unless you plan to visit one of the few places — including Camp Williams Cafe, Cosmic Cafe, the Adams Pack Station or Top of the Notch restaurant — in the forest to buy food and you know the establishment will be open.

A thoughtfully packed bag. When preparing for a hike, some pack the “10 essentials,” which includes navigation tools, a light source and emergency shelter, while others preach a different method of considering specifically what’s needed for the day. Search and rescue team members generally recommend that folks have in their pack whatever they’d need to spend a night in the woods, just in case things go awry.

Parking pass. To park in most places in the forest, you will need a $5 single-day Adventure Pass, a $30 annual Adventure Pass or an America the Beautiful pass. You can be ticketed without properly displaying your pass. If visiting trails near Wrightwood, you might need a Big Pines parking pass, as many of those locations are managed by a concessionaire, Mountain High.

A view from a car driving up a road with snowy mountains in the distance.

Driving up Angeles Crest Highway to Mountain High.

(Ryan Fonseca / Los Angeles Times)

Getting there

Much of Angeles National Forest’s hiking trails and day-use areas through the San Gabriel Mountains can be accessed via the 66-mile, winding Angeles Crest Highway, or State Route 2. The speed limit is 55 mph, unless otherwise posted. It’s advisable to take it easy, though, both to enjoy the view and avoid an accident.

State Route 39, another winding mountain road, takes visitors north to popular trails along the San Gabriel River and into the Crystal Lake area. The road features jaw-dropping views of the San Gabriel Valley, occasional wildflower blooms and steep drop-offs. Best to let whoever in your party isn’t scared of heights drive.

tall skinny plant with purple petals

Lupine is sometimes spotted on the hillsides around San Gabriel Canyon Road (Highway 39) in the Angeles National Forest north of Azusa.

(Raul Roa/Los Angeles Times)

In 1978, a landslide destroyed the segment of Highway 39 that connected it to Highway 2, turning it into what one public official called “a 27-mile-long cul-de-sac.” Officials have said it is too costly — and dangerous to bighorn sheep — to repair, although there have been recent discussions about its reopening.

Regardless of where you’re traveling in Angeles National Forest, you should check road conditions before heading out, especially in the winter, as officials will close forest roads to protect the public, including because of snow, or require that drivers carry tire chains.

You should keep in mind while traveling to trailheads that it is considered rude in mountain driving culture not to let faster vehicles pass you. Angeles Crest Highway has several paved turnouts for this reason. Additionally, please take good care to notice signage regarding segments of the highway where daytime headlight use is required.

Lastly, be aware that there are dirt fire roads and several off-road vehicle routes through the forest. Your phone or car’s mapping app might try to send you down one to reach a trail. Please do not assume a road will be passable just because it’s open. When in doubt, call the ranger station before heading out.

Things you should know

Communicating while away. You should assume you won’t have cellphone reception anywhere in Angeles National Forest. For safety while you’re out of your mobile service area, you should share this form with a family member or friend to ensure someone knows where you’re headed. You should also print the form and place it on your dashboard so, in the event of emergency, rescuers can find you more quickly than having to track down details of your whereabouts from your family. If you forget to bring the form, simply write down the details of your day or overnight trip, including when you expect to return, and leave them on your car dash.

Emergencies. Emergency services in Angeles National Forest include 23 fire stations such as the Clear Creek Fire Station and the Monte Cristo Fire Station off Highway 2. Volunteer search-and-rescue crews respond in most hiking emergencies. If you are ever rescued by helicopter, you will not be charged by these groups. That said, they’re always in need of donations to stay afloat.

Fire restrictions. Forest officials will, at times, limit campfires and stove usage because of elevated wildfire risk. Before heading out, check the Angeles National Forest alerts webpage to discern what’s allowed on your trip. If campfires are allowed, you must still secure a free campfire permit and have a copy with you.

A clear highway with one car surrounded by snow-covered trees.

A vehicle heads north on Highway 39 into a winter wonderland with a good accumulation of snow at the 5,000-feet level in the Angeles National Forest north of Azusa in January.

(Raul Roa / Los Angeles Times)

Weather. Checking the forecast is not always top of mind for your average Angeleno, but hikers and campers must assess the weather before leaving for the forest. Temperatures in Angeles National Forest can range from below freezing overnight in winter, especially above 6,000 feet, to above 100 degrees in summer. Even after checking the forest, remember that elevation will play a role in temperature. Generally, for every 1,000 feet you gain, the temperature can drop from around 3½ to 5 degrees, something meteorologists call “environmental lapse rate.”

Eaton fire closures. Please note that the following guide does not include any of the trails burned in the Eaton fire, as they remain closed. Once they’re open, this guide will be updated.

Leave no trace. Whenever you hike, camp or otherwise visit Angeles National Forest, please practice the “leave no trace” principles, which include packing out everything you pack in, respecting the animals (which means not taking selfies with them), and overall ensuring these lands are protected for generations to come.

With that said, take a deep breath, and imagine being surrounded by the fresh scent of pine as mountain chickadees chirp all around you. Yes, friend, that’s possible — and all within a short drive of L.A. Let’s go on an adventure!

Forest scene illustration with a couple putting together a campground tent with their dog looking inside the tent flap

(Ruby Fresson / For The Times)

For Angelenos seeking a relaxing respite (easy)

It might seem daunting to drive into the hulking mountains surrounding L.A., but there are many easy-going and family-friendly adventures to be had in Angeles National Forest. Many families and friend groups spend time visiting vista lookouts and at one of several day-use picnic areas, which often feature picnic tables and grills (when allowed).

Here you’ll find some kid-friendly and wheelchair accessible trails and other opportunities, including campgrounds where you can easily drive up and spend a weekend.

Large boulders at the Mt. Hillyer summit.

Large boulders at the Mt. Hillyer summit.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Hiking trails

🌇For great views: the Mt. Wilson Observatory paved walking paths; Crystal Lake walking path.

🌳To be among tall trees: Joatngna Trail (the Elfin Forest Trail); the paved Buckhorn Campground paths.

💧For cool rivers, lakes and cascading falls: the West Fork National Scenic Bikeway (paved for the most part); San Antonio Falls trail (paved, but uphill); Gould Mesa Campground via the Gabrielino Trail (including about one mile of paved trail to start).

🪨To see massive rock formations: Mt. Hillyer via Silver Moccasin Trail (great for older kids); Mt. Hillyer Trail from Horse Flats Campground (easier, flatter option!).

Campgrounds

These campgrounds are in the “easy” category because they’re straightforward to reach. Additionally, they all usually offer piped (i.e. drinking) water, but you should check on the campground sites linked here to ensure it is available before heading out.

A hammock set up between two trees at Crystal Lake Campground.

Crystal Lake Campground is a 120-site campground north of Azusa.

(Raul Roa / Los Angeles Times)

The campgrounds below range from $12 to $30 per night for single sites ($5 per additional vehicle), with some requiring payment by cash or check. They are available on a first-come, first-served basis unless otherwise noted; feature picnic tables and fire rings; have vault toilets; and allow dogs.

  • Appletree Campground: Open year-round, Appletree features eight first-come, first-served walk-in sites that are a short distance, less than 100 yards, from the parking area. Three sites are ADA accessible. A Big Pines pass from Mt. High is required to park. Each site has a grill on top of the usual amenities. The campground is only 10 minutes from Wrightwood, a cozy mountain town with restaurants and a local grocery store.
  • Buckhorn Campground: Arguably one of the most beautiful of Angeles National Forest’s campground offerings, Buckhorn is a popular 38-site campground shaded by California incense-cedar, white fir and tall sugar and Jeffrey pine trees. It sits at around 6,500-feet elevation and, as such, is open from spring to fall since it is often blanketed in snow come winter. Campers should be prepared to pack their food and scented items in the bear boxes supplied, as our ursine neighbors are around the area. Many campers walk the short distance to the Burkhart trailhead and visit Cooper Canyon Falls, a 40-foot cascade reachable by carefully scrambling down from the trail. Others simply lounge in hammocks and play in the seasonal spring that runs through the site.
  • Chilao Campground: Chilao has 84 campsites spread over two loops, Little Pines and Manzanita. Its landscape features large boulders, sweeping views and pine trees (especially the eponymous loop). Piped water is available, although it is at times turned off, so please check the campground website before heading out. The Chilao Visitor Center, open on the weekends, is nearby.

  • Coldbrook Campground: Coldbrook Campground sits on the north fork of the San Gabriel River, where visitors can splash around its cool waters. Its 22 campsites offer shade and a river soundscape.
  • Crystal Lake Campground: Crystal Lake is a 120-site campground north of Azusa. It sits at 5,539-feet elevation and features great views of nearby peaks, including Mt. Islip and Windy Gap. Visitors can fish in Crystal Lake when it’s deep enough and find a hot meal at Crystal Lake Cafe and General Store.
  • Los Alamos Campground: One of few campgrounds in Angeles National Forest requiring reservations, the Los Alamos Campground has 90 individual and three group camp sites. Visitors are a short drive from Pyramid Lake where they can swim at Vaquero Beach or fish and boat elsewhere. Call ahead to ensure that Pyramid Lake isn’t experiencing an algal bloom, which has been a common occurrence in recent years.
  • Monte Cristo Campground: Monte Cristo has 19 individual drive-in sites, including some with large shady sycamore trees. A small creek runs through the middle of the campground and has small pools to splash in. Drive 2½ miles south to the nearby Hidden Springs Picnic Area for more swimming.
  • Table Mountain Campground: Open spring through fall, Table Mountain has more than 100 campsites that can be reserved through Recreation.gov, although first-come first-served may, at times, be available. This large campground is operated by Mountain High Resort near Wrightwood and near the company’s North Lodge, where guests can play a round at the disc golf course with sweeping views of the desert below. A Big Pines pass from Mt. High is required to park.

Bonus spots

The forest and the surrounding area have far more to explore than hiking trails and campgrounds. Some of the spots listed here are outside the forest but are included because they’re worth visiting when nearby.

Visitors walk through fields of California poppies.

Visitors walks on a path through fields of California poppies in the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve in Lancaster.

(Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)

  • The Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve: Although not in Angeles National Forest, this state natural reserve is over 1,700 acres of open space that bursts, when conditions are right, with bright orange poppies from sometime between mid-February to May. Note: Do not leave the trail and trample the poppies to nab selfies or other images, regardless of whether you see others doing it.

    A small olive-gray songbird with white and black wing bars, gently held by a human in their hand

    A ruby-crowned kinglet after it was measured and banded at the Bear Divide banding station near Santa Clarita.

    (Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

  • Bear Divide Banding Station: Volunteers operate this banding station seasonally from late March through mid-May. They place nets on the hillside to catch migratory birds that they add small metal bands to the legs of, collecting annual population data for further research.
  • Camp Williams: A privately operated RV and tent campground on the East Fork of the San Gabriel River; also has a cafe that’s open on weekends.
  • Cali Splash Park at Castaic Lake: If hiking near Castaic Lake, the Cali Splash Park offers what’s essentially a massive bounce house and obstacle course in the middle of a lake, a memorable experience and fun surprise after an early morning hike.

    Jackson Lake in Angeles National Forest near Wrightwood.

    Jackson Lake in Angeles National Forest near Wrightwood.

    (Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

  • Elizabeth Lake Day Use: A small picnic area about 30 minutes west of Lancaster where visitors can fish and kayak on a seasonal lake, or sag pond, formed by the San Andreas fault.
  • Jackson Lake: A small mountain lake near Wrightwood where Mountain High, a local ski resort, offers kayak, paddleboard and pedal boat rentals until the winter season. Guests can also fish, as the lake is stocked with rainbow trout several times a year, according to Mountain High.
  • Mt. Wilson Observatory: Visitors can look through large telescopes, enjoy Sunday afternoon concerts, take guided tours of the grounds and snag a bite to eat at the Cosmic Cafe, which is open seasonally.
  • Placerita Canyon Nature Center: Although not in Angeles National Forest, this charming facility near Santa Clarita is within a short hike from federal land. Swing by before a hike, and you can say hello to the animal ambassadors, which usually include red-tailed hawks and other native birds.
  • Stonyvale Picnic Site: A lesser-traveled picnic area with 11 tables and grills near Big Tujunga Creek, where families and friends can spend the day splashing in its cool waters, especially in the spring when it is flowing.
  • Vasquez Rocks Nature Center: This L.A. County park has been the site of several movies and television shows and is a fun side quest for those hiking on nearby federal forest trails.
  • Wildwood Picnic Area: A large picnic area near Sunland-Tujunga situated next to Big Tujunga Creek meanders where visitors can splash around the exposed rock bed of Stone Canyon.
Waterfall forest scene illustration with a couple looking on as their dog plays on a nearby rock

(Ruby Fresson / For The Times)

Are you ready to expand your hiking excursions beyond your favorite L.A. trails? Have you been hiking up to Mt. Hollywood, wondering what those peaks are beyond the city? Well, buckle up, buttercup, because here you’ll find an assortment of day hikes and weekend camping ideas that will have you filing for vacation before you realize you’re typing an email to your boss.

These trails are varying levels of difficulty, but are listed as moderate because none of them should require you to have significant technical outdoors knowledge. Enjoy!

Hiking trails

Hikers on the trail to Switzer Falls.

Hikers on the trail to Switzer Falls.

(Brian van der Brug / Los Angeles Times)

🌇For great views: Josephine Peak, Stoddard Peak, Tee Pee Trail, Three Points to Sulfur Springs via Pacific Crest Trail, Throop Peak, Vetter Mountain, Warm Springs Mountain.
🌳To be among tall trees: Boy Scout Trail Loop, Mt. Baldy Notch via Manker Flat, Mt. Waterman Loop, Rim Trail to Newcomb Pass, Valley Forge Trail Camp via Gabrielino National Recreation Trail, Winter Creek to Hoegees Trail Camp loop.
💧For cool rivers and cascading falls: Bridge to Nowhere, Brown Mountain Dam Waterfall, Cooper Canyon Falls via the Burkhart Trail, Fish Canyon Narrows, Sturtevant Falls Trail, Switzer Falls trail, Trail Canyon Falls.
🪨To see massive rock formations: Castaic Rock Trail near Castaic Lake, Devil’s Chair Trail, Mt. Hillyer via the Silver Moccasin Trail.

Campgrounds

These campgrounds are considered “moderate” because they either do not offer water but still offer car camping or they require a short backpacking trip. They offer opportunity for memorable outdoor experiences in remote places without making you feel like you’re secretly being filmed for “Naked and Afraid.”

The campgrounds here range from free to $12 per night ($5 per additional vehicle); available on a first-come, first-served basis; feature picnic tables and fire rings; have vault toilets; and allow dogs.

  • Cooper Canyon Trail Camp: The Cooper Canyon Trail Camp is a backcountry campground shaded by towering old pine trees. It has five sites, and bear-proof boxes are available to store food and scented items. It can be reached a few different ways, including a 1½-mile one-way trip down a fire road starting at Cloudburst Summit. There is no piped water. Campers will need to either bring their own or filter water from the nearby river.
  • Gould Mesa Trail Camp: Gould Mesa is a five-site backpacking campground accessed by a two-mile hike via the Gabrielino Trail starting near Pasadena. It can also be accessed by hiking Gould Mesa Road from La Cañada Flintridge. The Arroyo Seco flows nearby and offers seasonal swimming holes for campers. No fee charged outside of Adventure Pass for your vehicle at the trailhead.
  • Glenn Camp Campground: Accessible via a seven-mile bike ride or hike, the Glenn Camp Campground is a 10-site forested haven next to the West Fork of the San Gabriel River. There is no piped water. Campers will need to either bring their own or filter water from the nearby river.
  • Horse Flat Campground: Horse Flat is a 26-site shaded campground offering corrals and hitching posts should you have an equine companion. It is close to the Silver Moccasin National Recreation Trail, which you can hike to nearby Mt. Hillyer for bouldering. No water available. Closes seasonally.
  • Oak Flat Campground: Oak Flat is a rustic 20-site campground near Castaic that will provide you with an easy night of car camping although you might, at times, hear Interstate 5. Shaded by oak trees, the campground is close to Whitaker Peak and Piru Creek at Frenchman’s Flat. There is no piped water, so campers will need to bring their own.

Bonus spots

A deep blue lake with mountains nearby.

Pyramid Lake near Castaic.

(Eric Thayer / Los Angeles Times)

  • Adams Pack Station: A last remaining pack station in Southern California, this rustic shop in Big Santa Anita Canyon sells hot meals, hiking gear and souvenirs. Its wooden deck is close to the donkeys, who are worth saying hello to.
  • Castaic Lake: A fishing and swimming spot to cool off after a hike in the western Angeles National Forest.
    Two donkeys peer out of a stall.

    Cora and Kenny, two donkeys at Adams Pack Station in Big Santa Anita Canyon.

    (Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

  • Chantry Flat picnic area: A large picnic area with grills offering a great spot to rest after a nice hike through nearby Big Santa Anita Canyon.
  • Devil’s Punchbowl Natural Area and Nature Center: An L.A. County park near Pearblossom with massive rock formations and easy access to Angeles National Forest trails nearby.
  • Green Valley SmokeHouse: Nestled in the gorgeous rural town of Green Valley, this is a family-owned local restaurant with a robust menu that features both meat by the pound and vegan options. It’s an easy stop if you’re hiking or camping in the western end of Angeles National Forest.
  • Sturtevant Camp: Founded in 1893, the camp has cabins to rent, but is also a fun day trip. It’s a four(ish)-mile hike from Chantry Flat to reach the camp. If you would prefer not to haul in your gear, you can hire a mule team from Adams Pack Station to carry it for you.
Forest scene illustration with of a dog looking at colorful fall leaves

(Ruby Fresson / For The Times)

For the adventurer whose friends regularly call them ‘hardcore’ at parties (advanced)

The trails here are challenging but worthy adventures for experienced hikers to consider. What does “experienced” mean exactly? Unlike the trails categorized above as “easy” or “moderate,” the trails here require you to plan ahead, bringing plenty of water and other supplies, looking over topography maps and reading trail reports. With proper planning, though, you will find yourself on a great adventure that’s also close to home. Please note: Some of the trails below may be covered in snow in winter and require technical experience.

🌇For great views: Crystal Lake to Mt. Islip; Crystal Lake to South Mt. Hawkins; Fox Mountain via the Condor Peak Trail; Hoyt Mountain via Grizzly Flat; Jupiter Mountain Loop; Liebre Mountain via PCT; Magic Mountain; Mt. Baldy via Devil’s Backbone Trail; Mt. Lukens via Haines Canyon; Slide Mountain; the Three T’s via Icehouse Canyon; Townsend Peak; Whitaker Peak.
🌳To be among tall trees: Mt. Waterman to Twin Peaks; Mt. Baden Powell; Ontario Peak; Cucamonga Peak (with permit); Mt. Hawkins; Pacifico Mountain.
💧For cool rivers and cascading falls: Icehouse Canyon to Icehouse Saddle Trail, Oak Springs Trail
🪨To see massive rock formations: Strawberry Peak; Islip Saddle to Mt. Williamson Ridge.

Backpacking opportunities near L.A.

  • The Gabrielino Trail is a 26(ish)-mile National Recreation Trail that hikers traditionally start at Chantry Flats and hike north, west and finally south to its exit point near Pasadena.
  • The entire Silver Moccasin Trail, another National Recreation Trail in Angeles National Forest, is 53 miles — and you could buy yourself a vintage Scouting America “Silver Moccasins” badge on eBay afterward as a humble brag to friends.
  • An estimated 176 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail‘s 2,500 miles are through Angeles National Forest. Per the forest service, you can take the trail through Angeles high country, from near Mt. Gleason through Mill Creek Summit, Mt. Pacifico, Sulphur Springs, Cooper Canyon, Mt. Williamson, Little Jimmy, Mt. Baden-Powell and Blue Ridge and on to the Cajon Pass area.

Campgrounds

The campgrounds here are considered “advanced” because they require a level of planning and preparation that falls beyond your average car-camping trip. Several are backpacking sites and do not offer potable water. Some do not have streams to filter water. Despite the challenge to reach them, they are worth it for the sweeping views and solitude, the ability to nap under a hulking pine tree without interruption, outside of maybe a Steller’s jay curious about whether the weird animal (i.e. you) in its yard has any food to steal.

Unless otherwise noted, the campgrounds here range from free to $12 per night ($5 per additional vehicle); are available on a first-come, first-served basis; and allow dogs.

  • Big Rock Campground: Big Rock has eight free first-come, first-served sites, with picnic tables and campfire rings. It has vault toilets. Big Rock is on the “expert” list because the road to reach it is frequently closed. This means you’ll need to hike about one-eighth of a mile from a locked gate or take a 4×4 high-clearance vehicle from Vincent Gulch down Big Rock Creek Road (if open). You could also park at Vincent Gulch (displaying a Big Pines parking pass) and hike down the road to reach the campground. Either way, you’ll likely find solitude and hopefully seasonal springs to filter water from. Otherwise, you’ll need to pack in what you need.
  • Bear Camp: This trail camp, labeled “extremely primitive” by the Forest Service, has seven sites, each with a picnic table and campfire ring. It does not have toilets. Bear Camp is located on the far northwestern corner of the forest and is best reached by 4×4 or mountain bike, or by hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, which passes by it. It is, per the Forest Service, “extremely primitive” and lacks toilets or water. That said, each site features fire rings, bear-proof storage lockers and picnic tables.
  • Hoegees Trail Camp: A 14-site backcountry trail camp accessed by hiking by a 2½-mile, one-way hike up the Upper Winter Creek Trail in Big Santa Anita Canyon.
  • Little Jimmy Trail Camp: Little Jimmy is a 16-site campground positioned among tall trees at 7,500-feet elevation. It has a seasonal spring where campers can filter water when the spring is running. It is free. It has vault toilets. Each site has bear boxes, as it is an area of high bear activity, along with picnic tables and campfire rings. You can reach it via a 1½-mile hike from Islip Saddle.
  • Messenger Flats Campground: A backcountry campground reachable via a 10-mile hike from Mill Creek with vault toilets and picnic tables. Potable water is not available.
  • Mt. Pacifico Campground: A 10-tent-only campground with picnic tables and vault toilets but no potable water. Mt. Pacifico is reachable by high-clearance vehicles until the first winter storm of the season is expected, and the Forest Service then closes the road. Hikers can access the campground all season by taking the road or Pacific Crest Trail before turning east onto a spur that leads to the campground.
  • Sawmill Campground: Although you can drive to the eight-site Sawmill Campground, it is on the “hard” list because of the drive itself over a bumpy, steep, dirt road. Once there, you’ll be treated to expansive views of the Antelope Valley and beyond. Each site has a picnic table and campfire ring, and there is a vault toilet available. Potable water is not available.
  • Southfork Campground: A remote and rustic 21-site campground reachable with a high-clearance vehicle, as the road isn’t maintained. Campers often visit the South Fork of Big Rock Creek to splash around and observe fish swimming about.
  • Sulphur Springs Trail Camp: Sulphur Springs Trail Camp sits at 5,300 feet and features about six tent-camping sites. You can reach it by parking at Three Points and hiking about 3.6 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail to reach the camp. Its campsites are shaded by tall pine trees, ideal for hanging a hammock. It has vault toilets but no potable water or bear boxes.
  • Spruce Grove Trail Camp: A remote seven-site trail camp accessed by a 4(ish)-mile, one-way trip from Chantry Flat Picnic Area.

Bonus spots

The Mt. Baldy Lodge offers cabins.

The landmark Mt. Baldy Lodge, with quaint and cozy cabins in the village just as you enter town.

(Chris Erskine / Los Angeles Times)

  • Buckhorn Ski Lodge: A backcountry ski club with an off-grid cabin in a remote area of Angeles National Forest.
  • Mt. Baldy village: A small community near several popular trailheads where you can stop to eat at the Mt. Baldy Lodge and visit the Mt. Baldy visitor center, which is open generally midday on weekends. You can check the forest’s website for the visitor center’s latest hours.
  • Rowher Flats OHV: An off-roading site for motorcycles, ATVs and 4-wheel drive vehicles. Get your vroom-vroom on via several miles of trails.
A brown sign that reads "May your search through nature lead you to yourself."

A contemplative sign in Big Santa Anita Canyon in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Respecting the land 🗻

L.A. is the second largest city in the U.S. and is often called the “entertainment capital of the world.”

But it offers residents and visitors alike the rare opportunity to spend the morning along bustling Hollywood Boulevard before finding total solitude in Angeles National Forest. With that opportunity comes a great responsibility to protect it so that Angeles National Forest is not loved to death but rather cherished for generations to come.



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Stunning UK forest walk with waterfalls and boardwalk mistaken for Canada

The forest features the spectacular Cascades Walk boardwalk along the river, with visitors comparing the scenic beauty to the Canadian wilderness

Tucked away in the heart of Wales, one remarkable forest brimming with thousands of pine and spruce trees has left visitors so spellbound they struggle to believe they’re still in the UK. Boasting around 15 square miles of stunning scenery and rich wildlife, Hafren Forest possesses an enchanting quality, where you can wander beneath the leafy canopy on various trails that encounter streams and waterfalls en route.

Situated just a brief drive from the Welsh town of Llanidloes, this makes an ideal spot for winter rambles, witnessing the seasonal transformation up close.

One of the forest’s crown jewels is the Cascades Walk, a scenic half-mile boardwalk that meanders alongside the River Severn. When TikTok explorers going by @tomharbourne stumbled upon the forest, they hailed it as “the best boardwalk in the country.”

The adventurers, who have a knack for uncovering hidden gems across the UK, ventured to Hafren Forest. They posted a TikTok clip, simply titled “This is not Canada” featuring the boardwalk stroll, bordered by flowing water and tree-lined paths on both sides.

They continue: “This walk showcases some of the most amazing scenery Wales has to offer and the views you get on this stunning walk immediately will have your thoughts drifting away to pine forests of Canada or Alaska.”

The Cascades Walk offers a breathtaking viewpoint with cascading waterfalls, providing the ideal spot to take a breather and soak up the splendour of nature.

The boardwalk is easily navigable and even includes ramps for wheelchair users and mobility scooters, ensuring it’s a welcoming spot for everyone.

You’ll also find the Source of the Severn Trail within the forest, leading intrepid explorers to the river’s origin on the slopes of Pumlumon, the loftiest peak in the Cambrian Mountains.

This hour-long trail takes visitors along the river, through a vibrant wildflower meadow, before crossing a footbridge where the River Severn roars down a gully to create the renowned Severn-Break-its-Neck waterfall.

The forest itself was established in the 1930s by the Forestry Commission, with the river’s source located on the slopes of Pumlumon (Plynlimon), the tallest mountain in mid-Wales. It’s also a paradise for wildlife lovers.

It’s home to an array of rare bird species, such as buzzards, goshawks, red kites, and merlins.

Plus, almost all of the UK’s native freshwater fish species inhabit its waters, making it a hotspot for biodiversity.

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Forest walks can range from a quick 30-minute stroll to a more challenging 4.5-hour hike, with terrain varying from a man-made boardwalk to loose stone and steep inclines, depending on your chosen route.

With picnic areas conveniently situated near the car park and at the end of the boardwalk, it’s the perfect place to pause and appreciate the otherworldly beauty of the surroundings.

The forest is a perfect spot for families, couples, and large groups, offering ample room for all to roam and relish.

Whether you’re after a tranquil escape or a fun-filled family day out, Hafren Forest has got you covered.

What’s more, entry won’t cost you a penny, making it a wallet-friendly choice for nature enthusiasts keen to soak up the breathtaking Welsh scenery without splashing the cash.

Whether it’s the picturesque vistas, the abundant wildlife, or the serene trails that catch your eye, Hafren Forest is an essential stop-off for anyone touring Wales.

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Chris Wood: Nottingham Forest striker undergoes surgery

Nottingham Forest striker Chris Wood is set for a further spell on the sidelines after undergoing surgery.

The New Zealand striker has been out since mid-October with a knee problem and is yet to feature under Sean Dyche since he replaced Ange Postecogolou as manager.

The 34-year-old excelled at the City Ground last term, scoring 20 times in 40 appearances as they qualified for Europe.

His playing time has been more limited this campaign, with Wood having managed two goals in nine appearances.

Wood did not specify the nature of his surgery, but he has been seen wearing a knee brace while watching recent Forest matches.

“The Christmas I didn’t expect, you can never know what football throws at you,” Wood wrote on Instagram.

“From the highs of last season to now the battles and the lows personally of this season. You have to be ready for anything.

“Truly gutting and frustrating that I’ll be on the sideline for another period of time. It’s what’s needed to come back stronger and better to help my team-mates do the job needed in the Premier League and in Europe.”

Wood’s last appearance came in Postecoglou’s final game in charge, the 3-0 defeat by Chelsea on 18 October.

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John Robertson: Former Scotland, Aston Villa and Nottingham Forest winger dies aged 72

Born in the Viewpark area of North Lanarkshire, Robertson played for Drumchapel Amateurs and Scotland at youth level before joining Forest in May 1970, making his debut later that year.

Having been on the transfer list before Clough’s arrival in 1975, he became a key player under the iconic manager, appearing in 243 consecutive games between December 1976 and December 1980.

Robertson scored the winner from the penalty spot in the 1978 League Cup final replay win over Liverpool.

He was sold to Derby in 1983 for a constested transfer fee, a move which soured the relationship between Clough and his former assistant, Peter Taylor.

An early injury hampered Robertson’s progress at County and, despite rejoining Forest in 1985, he never again captured the same form and moved on to non-league Corby Town, Stamford and then Grantham Town.

At Forest, he also won the First and Second Division titles, the Uefa Super Cup, two Football League Cups, the 1978 FA Charity Shield and the Anglo-Scottish Cup.

And in 2015, Robertson topped a poll by the Nottingham Post of favourite all-time Forest players.

As O’Neill’s assistant, Robertson helped Wycombe win promotion from the Football Conference and Third Division, and promotion to the top tier with Leicester, as well as the League Cup.

An even more successful spell with Celtic followed.

In Glasgow, they won the Scottish Premier League three times, the Scottish Cup three times, the League Cup once and reached the Uefa Cup final.

Then, in Robertson’s final season as a coach in 2010, Villa finished runners-up in the League Cup final.

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John Robertson obituary: Nottingham Forest great was ‘the Picasso of football’

Robertson had played for Scotland at schoolboy and youth level before joining Forest as a teenager in 1970. He had failed to make an impact until Clough’s appointment, but the great manager saw something he could nurture.

In his autobiography Clough wrote: “Rarely could there have been a more unlikely looking professional athlete… scruffy, unfit, uninterested waste of time… but something told me he was worth persevering with and he became one of the finest deliverers of a football I have ever seen.”

He also wrote: “If one day, I felt a bit off colour, I would sit next to him. I was bloody Errol Flynn in comparison. But give him a ball and a yard of grass, and he was an artist, the Picasso of our game.”

Clough was idolised by Robertson, who said: “I knew he liked me but I loved him. I wouldn’t have had a career without him.”

Robertson played in 243 consecutive games between December 1976 and December 1980, and despite the big-name buys such as England goalkeeper Peter Shilton and Francis, Britain’s first £1m footballer, he was the player who made Forest tick.

For all the talent elsewhere, Robertson was Forest’s fulcrum.

In Forest’s first season back in the top flight under Clough in 1977-78, Robertson not only played a vital role in winning the title, but also scored the winner from the penalty spot against Liverpool in their League Cup final replay at Old Trafford.

It was not just Clough who recognised Robertson’s significance, with former team-mate Martin O’Neill saying: “He was the most influential player in Europe for maybe three-and-a-half to four years.”

And Forest’s captain under Clough, John McGovern, stated: “He was like Ryan Giggs but with two good feet.”

All this despite Robertson’s own admission that he had no pace and could not tackle.

Clough, however, was not bothered about what Robertson could not do, preferring to give him licence to concentrate on what he could do. It was the perfect footballing marriage of manager and player. Two maverick characters working in harmony.

In a famous interview before the 1980 European Cup final against Hamburg, who had England captain Kevin Keegan in their side, Clough was asked about the prospect of their great Germany right-back Manfred Kaltz keeping Robertson quiet.

“We’ve got a little fat guy who will turn him inside out,” said Clough. “A very talented, highly skilled, unbelievable outside-left.”

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Premier League: Nottingham Forest manager Sean Dyche says he won’t weigh players like Pep Guardiola after festive break

Nottingham Forest manager Sean Dyche has told his players to “enjoy themselves” but to “use common sense” over christmas. His comments follow Pep Guardiola’s admission that Manchester City’s players will be weighed when they return to training to check their fitness has not dropped over the festive period.

READ MORE: Dyche urges ‘common sense’ and won’t weigh players

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Manchester City: Pep Guardiola says players will be weighed before Nottingham Forest game

Guardiola is known as a strict coach when it comes to player fitness levels and in 2016 exiled some of his squad from first-team training until they met certain weight targets.

Former City full-back Gael Clichy said Guardiola had told his players to avoid pizza, some juice and certain “heavy food”.

Guardiola previously apologised to Kalvin Phillips after saying the City midfielder was “overweight” on his return from the 2022 Qatar World Cup.

City are two points behind Premier League leaders Arsenal, who beat Everton 1-0 on Saturday, and face Forest before an away fixture at Sunderland on New Year’s Day.

Guardiola said he had no problem with his squad’s fitness or running, but they simply “have to play better”.

“The players asked me to have tomorrow’s [Sunday’s] training session off and I said no, because they didn’t play well enough,” Guardiola said.

“So Sunday recovery, train the guys that didn’t play, and after three days off they have two days to prepare for Nottingham Forest.”

Guardiola added that it was important for his players to spend time with their families over the Christmas period.

“I’ve learned from England, since I arrived, as much days [where you can] have a day off, you give them,” he added.

“The schedule is so tight and the players have to forget. The moment of the game they will be fresh in the legs.”

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Stargazing in the Lake District: a new forest observatory opens in Grizedale | Lake District holidays

A tawny owl screeches nearby in the dark and her mate replies, hooting eerily from the forest below. A white dome floats in the gloaming above a plain black doorway outlined with red light, like a portal to another dimension. I’m in Grizedale Forest, far from any light-polluting cities, to visit the Lake District’s first public observatory and planetarium, which opened in May.

Grizedale Observatory offers immersive films in the planetarium and three-hour stargazing events that go on late into the night. There are sessions on astrophotography and, on moonless nights, dark sky astronomy with the chance to see “a glittering tapestry of stars, galaxies, nebulae and star clusters”. Its director, Gary Fildes, is a veteran in the field, having founded and led three UK observatories over two decades. The goal at Grizedale, he says, is to create “an immersive, year-round astronomy and science destination that brings the beauty of the Lake District skies to visitors”.

The observatory’s regular evenings form part of Cumbria’s annual dark skies festival in late October and November. The festival offers owl- and bat-spotting walks and chances to swim or canoe after dark. But the observatory does more than dip a toe in the cosmic lake – it’s a permanent centre for studying the stars. A group of 60 schoolkids is arriving in the morning.

I’m here for an Aurora Night, timed to coincide with a period of high solar activity, but the heavens are stubbornly blanketed with cloud. The first drops of rain are falling as we head into Mission Control, with its little cafe tables,hand-painted otherworldly mural, inflatable alien and row of model rockets, built to scale by the observatory’s manager, Ben Marshall, a spaceflight obsessive.

Robert Bryce Muir’s warrior sculpture in Grizedale Forest. Photograph: Stan Pritchard/Alamy

A couple of hours later, we’re all staring up in wonder at a bejewelled night sky with shooting stars – thanks to the centre’s planetarium. An illustrated talk about auroras in the Stargazers’ Lounge combines detailed explanations with a sense of cosmic wonder. In the Meteorite Lab next door, there are microscopes and little space rocks – including actual pieces of the moon and Mars.

After hot drinks in Mission Control, Gary leads us through torrential rain to the new cedar-smelling observatory he helped build. He shows us extraordinary photos of the spiralling Andromeda galaxy and the dark Horsehead nebula, silhouetted against a glowing red dust and gas cloud, all taken by the robotic telescope in the retractable custom-built dome. For nights when the weather won’t cooperate, Grizedale gives out a free clear-sky pass so visitors can come back and stargaze another time.

The observatory’s team are clearly enthusiasts. Gary has been fascinated by the night sky “ever since I was a kid growing up in Sunderland, standing in the back garden and looking up, wondering what all those stars were”. His life story is remarkable. He tells me: “I was a bricklayer for years, but that curiosity about the universe never really went away. Eventually, I decided to take a massive leap and follow that passion properly – and it changed my life. I built Kielder Observatory in Northumberland from scratch, then Grassholme Observatory in Teesdale, and now I’m working in Saudi Arabia developing the Al-Ula Manara Space Observatory, one of the most exciting astronomy projects in the world.”

Gary describes how one observatory visitor wept when she first saw Saturn through a telescope, explaining that her father used to draw planets in a wartime air raid shelter and ringed Saturn was her favourite. “For me, astronomy isn’t just about science and telescopes,” says Gary. “It’s about people. It’s about perspective, wonder, and realising that we’re all part of something far bigger.”

The Hawkshead valley looking towards the Old Man of Coniston and Tarn Hows. Photograph: Martin Bache/Alamy

No buses run to Grizedale Forest, but getting here without a car has been surprisingly easy. After an early start from Essex into London, the train up to Oxenholme takes less than three hours, racing past the Chilterns woods and Midlands canals to the cloud-capped Cumbrian fells. The branch line to Windermere is a 20-minute ride through tussocky fields of Herdwick sheep and slate-roofed, whitewashed villages. Finally, bus 505 from outside Windermere station loops round the lake and winds through hilly beech woods to reach the village of Hawkshead by lunchtime.

There are various ways of getting from Hawkshead to the observatory, about 3 miles south: by bike, taxi or on foot. I decide to walk there over the fells near Esthwaite Water and back via Hawkshead Moor. There are streams to hop and boggy hills to climb, but the views are worth it. Home to the UK’s first forest sculpture park, Grizedale has a huge collection of site-specific art. With a map of the walking trails, I follow one waterlogged path to see Andy Goldsworthy’s sinuous dry-stone wall, Taking a Wall for a Walk. Created in 1990, it’s dressed in thick moss and hidden among dense fir trees. There’s no sound other than rushing water and the calls of tiny, pine-loving goldcrests.

Forestry England lets out a little cabin next door to the observatory, and I’m sleeping there tonight. It’s a real log cabin, immaculately clean, with walls of thick pine trunks, tartan wool curtains and furry blankets. Umbrellas stand by the cabin door, on hand for the changeable Cumbrian weather. On a nocturnal trip to the loo, up a leaf-covered slope, I see a handful of stars finally winking through a gap in the clouds.

Heading back towards Hawkshead the next day, I find one of Grizedale’s newer works of art. On a grassy promontory between two waterfalls, Saad Qureshi’s Flight (2021) involves what looks like stained glass on steel filigree, creating iridescent dragonfly wings. Overnight rain has made the tumbling becks spectacular. Robert Bryce Muir’s powerful metal warriors struggle, roped together, in the trees nearby. Squelching through fields, I detour to Esthwaite, Hawkshead’s wildlife-rich lake. Redwings startle from berry-laden bushes and a cormorant skims over the water. Two swans fly overhead, their whirring wings loud in the quiet valley.

A presentation on constellations inside the planetarium

I’m staying tonight in the cosy, 17th-century King’s Arms, which reopened in August after an exquisitely tasteful refurb. My room, with its gnarled oak beams and cushioned bay window overlooking the village square, is all dusky rose and moss green, with elegant watercolours and floral fabrics. Downstairs, there’s a log-burner and local real ales in the slate-floored bar, and elegant plates in the dining room (the jalapeño jam alongside my onion bhaji is garnished with a purple pansy).

With its choice of pubs and cafes, picnic-ready delis, a well-stocked outdoor shop and a cake-filled honesty stall, fell-ringed Hawkshead is a walkers’ paradise. The former Beatrix Potter gallery (which was once her husband’s office) reopened in August as the National Trust’s first stand-alone secondhand bookshop. There’s a craft fair in the village hall and local ghost walks (£8 adults, £6 under-12s, usually on Wednesdays and Sundays).

The original Grasmere Gingerbread shop started in the mid-19th century, next to the quiet riverside churchyard where William Wordsworth lies buried. Now, 170 years later, a sister shop has appeared on Hawkshead’s pretty village square. There’s a plan to produce star-shaped cakes in support of the observatory. I stock up with chutneys from Hawkshead Relish and fresh gingerbread to take home tomorrow. Above the square, the cloudy skies are clearing and the stars are coming out.

Entrance to Grizedale Observatory is £13 adults, £8 concessions, £35 families; three-hour stargazing is £30 adults, £25 concessions, £89 families. Accommodation was provided by the King’s Arms in Hawkshead (doubles from £112.50) and the Cabin in Grizedale (from £117 a night, airbnb.co.uk). Transport was provided by Avanti West Coast (London to Oxenholme from about £35 one-way) and Stagecoach. Further information at visitlakedistrict.com

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Wake Up Dead Man A Knives Out Mystery filming locations including famous forest

Wake Up Dead Man A Knives Out Mystery filming locations including famous forest – The Mirror


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