foodie

Our Mirror writer Georgia Reina discovers Portugal’s Alentejo region and its world-class food, wine and slow living

When you picture Portuguese getaways, you’re almost certainly thinking of city escapes in Lisbon or the golden sandy shores of the Algarve. However, if you’re after a holiday that combines sun-drenched heritage with a chilled-out, easygoing vibe — not to mention exceptional wine — the true gem lies an hour and a half inland.

You may not have come across Alentejo yet, but next year the region’s historic centre, the town of Évora, will claim the spotlight as the European Capital of Culture. It delivers the perfect small-town appeal with a rustic flavour.

Wandering its cobbled lanes, I instantly sensed it’s the lively sort of place where everyone appears to know each other, effortlessly swapping banter across open windows and sunlit squares.

There is a philosophy in Alentejo, an idea the locals embrace, called vagar. Literally meaning ‘to drift’, it’s the deeply rooted Portuguese practice of slow living.

Vagar is about taking things easy, relishing a leisurely lunch, enjoying a fine glass of red, and allowing the day to unfold without any frantic urgency. It became the spirit of our trip.

Where to stay

In the town centre, I stayed at the five-star M’ar De Ar Aqueduto, a contemporary design hotel set within a 16th-century palace. It has a captivating history, with a former life as a medical facility and monks residing just across the lane.

Its standout feature is the stunning garden pool, positioned directly beneath the soaring stone arches of the city’s renowned aqueduct. A short drive from town in Viana do Alentejo, Moagem Industrial Lodge is a masterclass in industrial-chic design.

Set within a converted historic grain mill, the property preserves its original machinery and rustic character while providing entirely modern comforts. An ideal place to embrace the region’s more relaxed rhythm.

Discovering the city

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The architecture of Évora is a tribute to its history, with treasures around every corner. The city is awash with brilliant white buildings designed to deflect the Iberian sun, adorned with striking yellow and blue (a traditional choice intended to repel evil spirits, though it apparently also works as a natural insecticide).

History effortlessly blends into contemporary life; nowhere more evident than at the Aqueduto da Água de Prata (Silver Water Aqueduct). This 12km wonder has homes, cafés, and shops cleverly tucked into the narrow spaces beneath its soaring stone arches.

At the city’s highest point sits the iconic 1st-century Roman Temple – formerly the ancient city centre. Yet Évora’s Roman heritage is also concealed right beneath your feet.

As we entered the grand, iron-framed City Hall, we uncovered the Roman bath complex – discovered during renovations in 1987 and beautifully preserved within the municipal building. But no visit is truly complete without experiencing Évora’s most bizarre attraction: the Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos).

Constructed by 17th-century Franciscan monks, its walls and columns are carefully adorned with thousands of human skulls and shin bones. Standing there, taking it all in, was a powerful reminder of mortality I won’t ever forget.

Eat, drink, be merry

Évora’s culinary scene is renowned – local produce refined through generations of tradition. We began with an icon – doces conventuais (convent sweets).

Born from a 16th-century sugar boom originating in Brazil, inventive nuns blended sugar with egg yolks to create indulgent delicacies like Pão de Rala. On the savoury front, I don’t need to suggest a specific restaurant – the streets are packed with charming trattorias to choose from.

At virtually all of them, the highlight is pork – not just in main courses (succulent suckling pig), but even in puddings, where crispy, salty crackling is combined with sweetness – and it simply works. Complete your meal with Queijo de Évora, a sharp sheep’s milk cheese, or enjoy a glass of Marquês de Borba Late Harvest – now my go-to dessert wine.

What really places Évora and Alentejo on the international stage, though, is its wine. If you can schedule your trip around the Évora Wine Festival in late May, you’re in for an absolute delight (although tastings are on offer throughout the year).

The festival transforms the historic squares into vibrant celebrations with crowds enjoying rich, fruity reds and sunshine whites. During my tastings, I absolutely adored the Comenda Grande Rosé – a wonderfully dry, balanced wine with intense raspberry aromas and a crisp acidity that virtually demands to be enjoyed on a sun-drenched terrace.

The striking Quinta do Quetzal ‘Arte’ Red completely captivated me too, with its intricate blend of wild berries and rich spices, which complements pork dishes superbly. For a white, the lively Porta da Ravessa is pure Alentejo sunshine bottled, delivering an incredibly fresh, tropical burst of citrus that serves as the perfect local aperitif.

It is this remarkable, authentic viniculture that continues to cement the region’s standing as an absolute essential destination for food lovers and wine enthusiasts alike.

Beyond the city walls

Venturing beyond Évora for a day excursion, I’d suggest making the journey up to the medieval village of Monsaraz. Sitting high atop a hilltop overlooking the Spanish frontier, this ancient, walled museum-village appears frozen in time.

It boasts narrow, twisting lanes bordered by striking slate and whitewashed houses, all converging towards a magnificent 14th-century castle constructed by King Dinis. Strolling along its peaceful ramparts provides panoramic vistas across the golden Alentejo plains and the glistening waters of the Alqueva reservoir beneath – an ideal spot to embrace the purposeless wandering of Portuguese vagar at sunset.

How to book

For further details and inspiration, visit www.visitalentejo.pt. Overnight stays at Mar de Ar Aqueduto Hotel start from £120 for two, see mardearhotels.com. To explore the wine route, visit www.vinhosdoalentejo.pt.

PAIR a foodie city break in Canada’s Toronto with vineyards and lakeside luxury in Prince Edward County, says Deputy Picture Editor Antoinette Cumberbatch.

Cocooned in a blanket, I gaze at the yellow hue above the horizon and the colours sweeping across the sky, as the sun sets gloriously over the vast expanse of Lake Ontario.

From my deckchair, all I can hear are the rhythmic sounds of water hitting the pebbled shore as I sip a glass of crisp rosé. This is perfection.  

Feeling vine 

I’m exploring Canada’s Prince Edward County, a 21/2-hour drive east from Toronto, and the eclectic Drake Devonshire in the quaint town of Wellington makes for the perfect base, with its beach-house feel, glass-fronted outdoor sauna and this idyllic lakeside setting.

Airy bedrooms with quirky artwork, plus a ping-pong table and photobooth downstairs complete the vibe.

Double rooms cost from £164 per night (Thedrake.ca/drakedevonshire).  

ISLE HAVE SOME

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JET SET

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“The County”, as it’s called by Torontonians, is fast becoming known for its wineries, too.

Less than 10 minutes’ drive from my pad is Huff Estates, where the team has been perfecting its wines since 2002.

I sample a few silky blends – my fave is the Vines Unoaked Chardonnay – and learn how the region’s limestone-rich soil and cooler climate produces a unique blend. Tastings cost from £12 per person (Huffestates.com).  

Meanwhile, it’s a family affair at TerraCello Winery.

The seven-acre vineyard with Italian heritage is small compared to the others, but it makes exquisite riesling – tastings cost £11 per person – as well as delicious pizza, £10 (Terracellowinery.com).

For fans of elegant pinot noir, Closson Chase is also worth a stop, just a few minutes down the road (Clossonchase.com). 

Top of the crops 

Later that evening, I join a farm-to-table experience that’s as hands-on as it gets, with husband and wife team Luhana and Zach at Littlejohn Farm.

Cooking together in a small group, I’m tasked with rolling and filling fresh pasta for the cheese agnolotti – a skill I vow to continue back home.

But the star of the show has to be tender, home-raised lamb, which is the best I’ve ever tasted. Experiences cost from £122 per person (Littlejohnfarm.com).

I end my night at The Duchess, an elegant art-deco bar just a stroll from my hotel, with a Stay Curious cocktail – a heady blend of brandy, pineapple rum, coconut Campari, bergamot, lime and cucumber, £12 (Barduchess.com).  

Another gem is Base 31, 20 minutes’ drive away. Once a former WW2 airbase, it’s now a creative cultural hub with street food and live gigs.

I wander around the former barracks and gaze up at the restored Lancaster Bomber, before reading poignant love letters from a serviceman to his wife in its Love Notes exhibition. Entry costs £5 (Base31.ca). 

To the tower! 

The sister hotel of my lakeside stay, The Drake, puts me in the thick of Canada’s biggest city and Ontario’s capital, Toronto.

Set in one of the city’s coolest districts – Queen West – indie shops, cafes and restaurants line the pavements, alongside vibrant street art. Double rooms cost from £142 a night (Thedrake.ca/thedrakehotel). 

Of course, my first visit here wouldn’t be complete without whizzing to the top of the CN Tower.

Standing at 533m high, this former communication tower has been a staple of the skyline since 1976. Tickets to the highest platform cost £32 per person (Cntower.ca). 

But for me, Toronto is really about the food. I start at Lakeview diner, in the Dundas West neighbourhood.

You may not know the name, but it’s big-screen famous, having featured in blockbusters including Hairspray and Cocktail.

You can even sit in the booth where Tom Cruise sat, sipping its must-try apple-pie milkshake, £6.50.

Just being here feels like stepping into cinematic history, with autographs scrawled above the bar by actors who have filmed here (Thelakeviewrestaurant.ca).  

Elsewhere, St Lawrence Market, set up in 1814, proves perfect for a crash course in Canadian flavours.

I can’t resist picking up a raspberry-shaped pastry filled with raspberry whipped cream, £2.45, from Future Bakery, and I try the legendary peameal bacon sandwich in its salty, buttery roll from Carousel Bakery, £4.50 (Stlawrencemarket.com).  

Maple matters 

Close to St Lawrence’s, the historic Distillery District oozes character with its industrial red-brick buildings and cobbled streets.

I grab a delicious signature maple latte, £3.25, at Balzac’s (Balzacs.com), before heading to Mexican El Catrin Destileria for lunch.

Guacamole is crushed tableside for the nachos, £11.30, and I devour the fish tacos, £15.50, in seconds.

With tequila flavours including hibiscus and lime, tamarind and pineapple, I opt for a flight of mini margaritas to remove any decision-making, £27 for four (Elcatrin.ca). 

Craving some retail therapy, the next day I head to Ossington Avenue, a 10-minute stroll from The Drake.

Here, I find LoversLand, a stylish concept store selling cute trinkets and excellent socks (Loversland.com), retro fashion heaven Uncle Studios (Unclexstudios.com), and Rotate This, a record shop stacked with nostalgic vinyl (Rotatethis.com). 

The final evening of my trip comes around all too soon, and to mark the occasion I book a table at the achingly-cool Prime Seafood Palace, which is high-end – the chef’s menu will set you back £133 – but without any of the pretentiousness.

The tuna tartare and prime rib are flawless, but it’s the key-lime pie and maple tart that really steal the show for me (Primeseafood palace.ca).  

It makes for a pairing as perfect as Canada’s unofficial capital and the rural haven of Prince Edward County. 

BAKING is usually a precise art. But in St Louis, it was a faux pas that resulted in one of the American city’s most cherished baked foods: The gooey butter cake.

It was the 1930s and the Great Depression was in full force — ingredients were precious and food couldn’t be wasted.

So when a German-American baker accidentally swapped the quantities of flour and butter around for his traditional cake batter, he had to chuck it in the oven and flog it.

Luckily, the sticky outcome was very much to locals’ taste — and it quickly became a symbol of St Louis.

This sums up the city in a nutshell.  

The place encompasses a happy-go-lucky attitude, and gooey butter cake is just one of many joyous accidents to have occurred here.

WAIL OF A TIME

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Take toasted ravioli, for example. The popular dish, found on many restaurant menus, was initially created by a St Louis chef who mistakenly dropped pasta into frying oil.

Then there’s the waffle ice cream cone. It was popularised at the 1904 World’s Fair when a server who, having run out of tubs, transformed a neighbouring vendor’s waffles into cone-shaped vessels for his scoops.

This was my first visit and you’ve probably already guessed that I didn’t go hungry.

Until recently, most UK holidaymakers would have passed through this area on the famous Route 66, but last month, British Airways launched direct flights to St Louis in Missouri from London Heathrow.

Just make sure you pronounce it “Lewis” to avoid another faux pas.

The city’s shining star landmark is the Gateway Arch, at the edge of the Mississippi River.

It’s the tallest man-made monument in the USA — 630ft — and offers wonderful panoramic views of the city from its peak.

As well as toasted ravioli and gooey butter cake, St Louis is also the home of Budweiser beer.

Although the original recipe is thought to have been invented in the Czech Republic, where it was sold as Budweis, St Louis is the confirmed birthplace of the Budweiser version — adapted to suit the American palate.

The Anheuser-Busch brewery is still churning out bottles of the stuff today, and you can tour its massive vats, learning about the fermenting process, or even visit its famous Clydesdale horses — which have starred in many a Super Bowl ad.

All of the tours are decent value, too — starting from $15 (£11) for a 75-minute tour of the brewhouse, including a free beer.

If you’re more of a cocktail fan, head to Midtown.

Here, you’ll find None Of The Above on the pedestrianised Foundry Way — a sexy underground speakeasy serving unusually savoury cocktails that pack a punch.

Soak it all up with some barbecue from Salt + Smoke (there are several venues) or tuck into a sophisticated example of toasted ravioli at Katie’s opposite the baseball stadium, where the atmosphere is always thumping on game day.

The sports scene is big here, so try to catch a game — baseball, hockey, soccer . . . take your pick.

And if you’re a fan of street art, venture to The Walls Off Washington on Washington Avenue, home to some 33 murals by local artists.

Or book a room at the 21c Hotel.

With incredibly stylish bedrooms and a modern art museum on the second floor that’s open 24/7, it’s great for those early jet lag mornings.

Temperatures in St Louis reach highs of around 33C in summer, so I’d recommend cooling down with a famous “concrete” from Ted Drewes on Route 66.

These tubs of frozen custard were so named because of their stiff consistency.

Servers will hold the tubs upside down to prove how solid they are.

Or opt for a gooey butter cake ice cream — Clementine’s does some of the best (the small chain has several stores dotted around the city).

Whoever thought to combine creamy vanilla gelato with chunks of soft and sweet golden butter cake is a genius.

Or was that just a happy accident, too?

A foodie left people floored after sharing the price of his three-course meal at a Benidorm restaurant. Harry shared his story after he sampled what was on offer at a popular eatery

Thousands flock to Benidorm each year for a spot of sun-soaked fun, but one man recently left people gobsmacked after sharing the price of his meal abroad. He popped into a well-known establishment to enjoy a three-course meal, and people were floored when they caught a glimpse of his bill.

Harry, known as Harry Tokky on TikTok, regularly documents his travels and escapades in Benidorm, keen to showcase everything Spain has to offer. He recently turned heads after sharing a dining experience that left followers speechless when they discovered what he’d forked out at a local restaurant during his time there.

He posted footage of himself tucking into his food before delivering an honest verdict. It’s not the first time the cost of eating out has caught people’s attention at the beloved holiday hotspot.

Harry said: “Today I’m here at Uncle Ron’s, locally famous for the €1 pint, and what might be the cheapest Sunday roast in Benidorm. What are we waiting for? Let’s go and get ourselves a Sunday roast.

“Just ordered myself a chicken roast at a mental price of €12 (£10.36). Do you think that’s cheap? Because I do.”

In the caption, he clarified this covered three courses, writing: “Would you pay €12 for a three-course Sunday roast in Benidorm?”

When the food arrived, he appeared thoroughly impressed, raving about the generous portion size and noting it came with a hearty amount of gravy on the side.

He added: “I can’t get over the fact that this is all €12. We’ve even got a bit of stuffing there as well.

“As far as value goes, I mean you’re not going to get better value than this I don’t think anywhere else in Benidorm. I mean, look at the size of it.

“Fantastic. Would you pay €12 for this roast dinner? Because I certainly would.”

Warning: Below video contains language some may find offensive

The footage got tongues wagging, with many viewers left gobsmacked by what a steal it was.

One wrote: “Had one Sunday. It was absolutely lovely. €12 for dinner and pudding.”

Another chimed in: “€13 with a pint – Holy Moly!” A third remarked: “Love Uncle Ron’s.”

While a fourth also added: “Brilliant bar. Uncle Ron’s is great.”

For those yet to make a visit, Uncle Ron’s in Benidorm is well-regarded for serving up incredibly wallet-friendly roast dinners. Over the years, it’s typically been priced at around €12 for multiple courses.

You’ll find it situated on Calle Londres in the new town. It’s a firm favourite for pub grub, boasting live music, reasonably priced drinks and a laid-back atmosphere.