fish

On the balcony of a pink dockside building in San Pedro, a neon sign reading “Saturday Morning Fish Market” glows in the darkness. There’s a quiet stillness in the harbor — the only sounds are of the occasional gull and car whirring by. That is, until 1 a.m. rolls around.

Doors open at 1:30 a.m. at the Saturday Morning Fish Market.

This is when people begin to gather outside the roll-up door, some carrying backpacks ready to be filled.

At 1:30 a.m., a man in an orange apron lifts the door, releasing rays of white light onto the customers. They file inside, stepping onto the wet floor, eager to see the night’s beauties: freshly caught fish, filleted, deboned, washed and thrown onto thick mountains of crushed ice.

Shellfish, sardines, squid, mackerel and a market favorite, glowing salmon filets, sit on display. One employee pulls out crabs with a small net before letting a customer take their pick of the lot. Machines whir in an adjacent room, where fish are processed. Out back, sea lions bark, hoping for scraps.

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The Saturday Morning Fish Market, more formally known as J Deluca Fish Co., has existed for some time — owner John DeLuca claims a variation of the business began operating as early as the late ‘60s. As a child, DeLuca would greet his grandfather when he’d return to the San Pedro port with his catch, perhaps a fresh tuna or a bass to sell. For decades, the wholesale seafood distributor would open its market to the public just once a week — from 1:30 to 7:30 a.m. on Saturdays — usually seeing a smattering of mostly locals, the seafaring type, who might be shopping around after a late-night shift.

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1. Harikrishnan Babuchandran holds up his fresh fish. 2. Customers can watch their fish be processed. 3. The fish that’s for sale changes from week to week. (Linnea Stephan / For The Times)

The Saturday Morning Fish Market in San Pedro has existed in some form since the late ‘60s but thanks to social media, flocks of new customers are wanting in on the late-night seafood-buying adventure.

Neither DeLuca nor his son and co-owner, Chris, could have predicted the San Pedro institution would experience the boom in popularity it’s seeing now, especially in an industry that’s struggled over the past two decades.

Thanks to social media, the market is witnessing an unprecedented revival. At its pre-pandemic peak, it would get around 800 to 1,000 customers on a typical Saturday morning. Nowadays, up to 2,000 people walk through the doors, according to Chris, many of whom are visiting for the first time.

Owners John and Chris DeLuca.

Regarding Instagram and TikTok, where posts giving a glimpse of the late-night fish market have gone viral, John, 73, says, “I know absolutely zero.”

To his credit, he does exhibit some understanding of its effect. And he’s glad for it. “People that live within walking distance never knew we existed. Now they do, and it’s got nothing to do with me,” he says, grinning.

What’s most notable is the number of young people roaming around the market well before the crack of dawn, Chris says. The business has changed a lot since his “father’s generation,” and social media unlocked access to a new audience.

“I think people like those hidden gems and people like that fresh seafood experience,” he says.

Between rows of sea bass and salmon, the energy is buzzing. Abdul Fahwami, dressed in jeans and flip-flops, visits the fish market at least once or twice a month, depending on how many people he‘s having over at his house that week.

“Every time we come here, we buy a minimum of between 100 and 200 pounds,” he says. “Red snapper is one of the best fish.”

Branzino is a favorite among customers and employees.

He smiles as he watches employees process his fish on a long table. First, blades run against the fish scales, removing them in quick fashion. Then, there’s a swift slice across its belly, starting at a hole near the tail and ending up near the gill plate. Finally, the guts are removed and filets are cut, skin optional.

Prices change week in and week out, and depend on supply. While prices are typically 10% to 40% less than at stores, market representative Joe Castelao says the team values the “quality of our products” over “trying to cater to bargain finders.” Another advantage for customers is the ability to buy seafood in bulk, which often isn’t possible at your standard, local grocer.

On this day, there wasn’t much branzino, the fish Fahwami came early to look for. “I found only 11 pieces,” he says. “I took all of it!”

Not far away, a man named Terry Jackson waits in line; he’s wearing black overalls and swaying side to side, eager to advance.

Customer Terry Jackson at the Saturday Morning Fish Market.

“It’s definitely worth waking up a little late — or a little early, you could say,” he says. “The quality of the fish is good, plus the pricing.”

His fish of choice? “Tuna, my new favorite is tuna!” he says, proudly raising a plastic bag full of bright red filets.

Briskly pacing across the market floor are team members Mike and George Stahl, a father-son duo both wearing orange aprons and gloves.

Mike got into the seafood business about two decades ago. At the time, he lived in Florida and often purchased products from J Deluca Fish Co. By 2018, he’d moved his family out to California and started working at the market.

He says his favorite part is the variety of duties. “No two days are the same,” he says. “One day I could be selling a couple containers of squid, the next day I could be meeting face to face with someone at a conference on the other side of the country.”

Staff member George Stahl helps a patron.

He brought in his son George during the pandemic. As George explains, “We were bored and didn’t have anything to do at home so my dad said, ‘Why don’t you come down and put some boots on and start working?’”

George has become somewhat of a micro-celebrity around the market, frequently appearing in its Instagram posts. However, his time with the company might be temporary — he’s currently in school and plans to be a physical therapist at some point.

While the market is riding a wave of success, John doesn’t gloss over the grim outlook of the fishing and seafood industry as a whole. He says the industry has taken a hit over the years, between restrictions, overfishing and changing regulations.

“It’s a dying business,” John says, bleakly. “There’s very few seiners down here because it’s very difficult to make a living [fishing].

But for now, they’re able to survive. They watch as customers walk out of the market into the wee hours of the morning, proudly grasping their bags of the day’s freshest catch.

“A lot of things have gone the opposite direction,” John says. “But we’re still here.”

The fish market’s blue neon sign shines through the night.

Fish was thrust into the action for his first minutes of the season against the Hornets after Dylan Lawlor went down clutching at his hamstring.

Wales international Lawlor had only just returned from his own injury, and was making his second start of the campaign before being forced off after 29 minutes.

Fish has been recovering from hernia surgery, and feels he has more to go before declaring himself fully fit, although he is in a much better place than he was.

“It’s never nice to get injured, especially as we came back for pre-season. In effect, I’ve not really had a pre-season. I’m almost playing catch-up at the minute,” he said.

“I feel like I’ve got a long way to go, but it was nice to get out there on Tuesday night and get some minutes into my legs.

“My injury, you can’t help that. It is what it is. I got over it, and I feel like I’m in a good place now, and I’m ready to help the team.”

Cardiff established a 5-0 lead with five minutes of Tuesday’s game remaining – only to concede a late Watford consolation shortly after.

“I was disappointed,” admitted Fish.

“At that stage in the game, of course, we could have done better. We were all hoping for the clean sheet, but it was nice to get three points.”

Cardiff are yet to keep a clean sheet since winning promotion back to the Championship and face a tough challenge when they head to second-place Middlesbrough on Saturday, October 17 (12:30 BST).

Like Cardiff, Kim Hellberg’s side rank among the best performers for shots on goal and touches in the opposition box.

After a trip to Teesside, the Bluebirds face further tests against Birmingham and relegated trio Wolves, West Ham and Burnley.

Fish is not looking too far ahead. Instead, he wants his side to lay down a marker by becoming the first away side to win at the Riverside this season.

“The games we have got coming up are tough. Every game of football that you play in this league is tough. We will just take it game by game,” he said.

“[Watford] was a good start, and hopefully we can pick up another win in Middlesbrough on Saturday.”

A former Michelin-starred chef has reopened a well-known chippy as part of his Salt and Malt restaurant and takeaway chain

Few foods are as quintessentially British as fish and chips. From seaside holidays to Friday night takeaways, the humble dish has become a much-loved part of life in the UK.

But the classic pairing of crispy battered fish and golden chips is actually more than a century old. Fried fish and potatoes were eaten separately before the two came together in the late 19th century, with English Heritage dating the combination to towards the end of the 1800s.

It wasn’t long before fish and chips became synonymous with a day at the seaside. This is where Reach’s reporter Mark David Taylor went to visit one iconic seaside for a day trip and to try some fish and chips.

Former Michelin-starred chef Josh Eggleton took over the much-loved seafront chippy after more than 20 years in business, transforming it into one of his Salt & Malt restaurant and takeaway outlets within just a few weeks.

And it appears to have struck a chord with locals straight away – by 6pm on the glorious summer Saturday of Mark’s visit, there was already a queue for tables inside the Weston-super-Mare restaurant, with an even lengthier one snaking outside for takeaways.

Boasting blue-tiled frontage, black and white ‘chessboard’ floor tiles and ribbed glass partitions between booths, this gleaming new Salt and Malt bears a striking resemblance to existing branches, giving the impression that Eggleton is eyeing up further seaside locations. And rightly so, as this upmarket fish and chip concept is absolutely crying out for wider expansion, reports Wales Online.

Featuring sustainably sourced North Atlantic fish, gluten-free chips and daily specials – on this occasion, Cornish Mounts Bay sardines with toasted sourdough, salad and pickles – it’s undeniably a ‘posh’ chippy, yet Eggleton has been mindful not to price out everyday seaside visitors.

Takeaway prices remain reasonably competitive with most seafront chippies – small cod and chips is £12.50, battered sausages are £2.40 and the kids’ meals are £7, chips in a cone at £2 and a large chip box for £5.60.

Inside the restaurant, prices are naturally higher, with battered haddock and chips with buttered crushed garden peas coming in at £19, and a homemade fishcake with cod, haddock, lemon, dill and parsley priced at £14.50.

The children’s menu (for ages 16 and under) in the restaurant is a reasonable £7.50, offering battered fish, sausage, chicken chunks, scampi and halloumi, all served with chips and a choice of peas, baked beans, carrots or cucumber.

Yet it’s the inventive touches and alternatives that sets Salt and Malt apart from your typical seaside chippy.

Alongside gluten-free batter as standard, diners can opt to have their cod or haddock baked in garlic butter rather than battered – perhaps the healthier choice for those craving a ‘beach body’ this summer.

For those less concerned about such matters, free chip refills are also on offer, though the portions are hearty enough that you may not need them.

Mark and his plus one sampled the cod and chips (£18) and the curried cod burger (£16.50), and neither disappointed. The cod was wrapped in crisp, golden batter, with large, moist and succulent flakes of fish inside, accompanied by a generous serving of buttery crushed peas.

Granted, £18 is above average for fish and chips, but this was a superb rendition of the great British seaside staple and well worth every penny. Nestled in a soft brioche bun, the curried cod burger featured a generous portion of lightly battered fish with a subtle curry sauce flavour, accompanied by tartare sauce, coleslaw and pickled red cabbage.

The chips were perfectly cooked – crispy on the outside, fluffy within, and completely grease-free.

Essentially, the dish brought together all the finest elements of a traditional seaside chippy – fish and chips, a bread roll, curry sauce and classic burger toppings – and the combination was nothing short of brilliant. If summed up in just two words, they’d be “top drawer”.

Traditional chippy favourites paired with stunning coastal views – what more could anyone ask for?